Okay. I have been watching numerous videos pertaining to this particular type project. What I liked about this video in particular vs. all the previous ones, is that you actually know what you're doing. This is a rarety in TH-cam videos, and exactly why I watch many in order to find just one that is good.
As a small landscape company, we use a chainsaw quite a bit and keep one in the truck. I started using bar oil as a release agent years ago and it works just as well. It's nice to not have to drag a can of form oil around. We just wipe it on with an old rag.
Nice job ! You were taught right !! My life has been shortened 5yrs by concrete batch plant shortage and leftover hot mud they’ve sent. Good thing the weather was cold out at a 4 slump 😜 great job!
Nice video and very helpful. I had previously been under the impression it was necessary to leave the upper portion of the form in place until the concrete had cured. This makes much more sense and allows a nicer finish to the visible edge.
@@RathburnRanch I've seen guys use a rope on the 2x4 that goes against the porch. Once stripped, the rope comes off and creates a channel where water drips and can't drip down the face of the porch. My experience is that this is not a failure point of the porch in 20 years, in Michigan its always the surface
Very nice job, and working single I think the best approach was to order the mud in. If there were 2, then you could save a packet on the concrete bill by mixing it yourself, and the screed bar could be the simpler version I guess. Nice result.
Okay I was going to tie my slab in by pouring it into my cinder block wall.. I saw another guy who says that's the wrong way to do it and he makes sense.. The slab expands and contracts and will break the cinder block wall at the joints.. So he lays tar paper on top of the cinder block wall before pouring the slab so that the slab can expand and contract and float on top of the wall without cracking the wall..
I'm looking to do a very similar project after winter and am relieved to see that this is, I guess, small enough to not need rebar? What are you pouring the concrete onto though, is that pea gravel? I may not perfectly replicate this project (do the boards just help aesthetics afterward), but this helps make it feel manageable!
Awesome! Yes I would not be concerned about rebar or wire, it would not harm anything though. Every customer has a budget and I give that to them as an optional upgrade. Yes this is pea stone, that is the easiest for small jobs where you can’t feasibly compact sand in lifts. And no, all of the boards will be removed after it has cured to give the porch a cantilevered overhang for the cultured stone to dead end into. If you’re just leaving it as block- just use one 2x4 for a 1.5” overhang. Certainly manageable at this size, just be sure to oil your forms and vibrate or tap with a hammer on your edges. Best of luck!
How do you seal the area between the concrete and the wooden wall below the door so water can't get in there? Flashing? I have this type of concrete porch and we are getting water in between and I'm not sure how to fix it...
I’m wanting to extend a covered slab porch on a 50s home. Is it cheaper to extend the slab and tie it in or demo the whole thing and build with wood? Thanks
It would depend on a few things. Condition of the existing porch/slab, Size, and finished look. I'm not a fan of maintenance of staining and sanding wood-However composite decking has come a long way. In almost every scenario it would be cheaper to do wood unless it is a very large demolition project.
Correct, If it was a basement or something more crucial we could've added something more significant. However, if the siding contractor flashes the freeze board properly with sealant, flashing, and the proper trim shingling- there should never be water behind the slab!
My front porch is sinking inward and downward toward the house about two or 3 inches. It is concrete with brick steps and surrounding the porch. I am not sure how this porch foundation is built but I am looking for ways to fix this porch so it can be leveled. Could you give me some advice?
Absolutely. It will depend on your climate zone and local building code. Here is Michigan, the bottom of the footing needs to be 42" below finished grade.
Might a 26-gauge sheet of galvanized flashing Gorilla-glued to the house possibly protect the house from moisture associated with the steps? The siding of my house rotted because concrete was poured against my house with nothing separating the two. The only way for me to access and repair the rotting siding and sheathing and joist ends and sill plate is to remove the concrete steps.
Yes, depends on temperature. Usually 2-4 hours after pouring. Just comes with practice but I usually start to pull a side off slowly and watch if it sags at all. If it does, I screw it back in and give it a while
i watched one pro and he puts shingles over the holes in the cinder blocks so no concrete goes in and fills them he showed why and it makes sense to me ..
No, I ended up filling them with the concrete from the porch cap. On a larger porch I wouldn’t recommend this. I typically fill the holes and separate the porch with visqueen, so that they are not bonded to the block. But with such a small porch, it is not as important!
I’ve heard of people doing that. In theory yes it would work great, I just worry about staining. If I’m out of form oil or in a pinch, diesel works very well!
![일상 속 기분 좋음 [Proto disco meme]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/DwmEIaZ7XGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Knocked it out of the park brother. Great work and great job explaining the process. Finisher from Kentucky here man🤛
Thanks man!
Okay. I have been watching numerous videos pertaining to this particular type project. What I liked about this video in particular vs. all the previous ones, is that you actually know what you're doing. This is a rarety in TH-cam videos, and exactly why I watch many in order to find just one that is good.
Thanks Dave, I appreciate that. Let me know if you have any questions!
As a small landscape company, we use a chainsaw quite a bit and keep one in the truck. I started using bar oil as a release agent years ago and it works just as well. It's nice to not have to drag a can of form oil around. We just wipe it on with an old rag.
Excellent attention to detail and explained the process perfectly. Well done!
Thanks man!
Nice job ! You were taught right !!
My life has been shortened 5yrs by concrete batch plant shortage and leftover hot mud they’ve sent. Good thing the weather was cold out at a 4 slump 😜 great job!
This is probably one of the best videos I've seen for a pour. Outstanding work!
Thank you!
I haven't done much concrete for about 17 years, but this is exactly how we did it. Always worked well. Great job.
Nice video and very helpful. I had previously been under the impression it was necessary to leave the upper portion of the form in place until the concrete had cured. This makes much more sense and allows a nicer finish to the visible edge.
Super helpful. Thanks brother. Currently doing the demo on my old porch and about to lay a new foundation and then a slab. God bless.
Looks great. I appreciate the detail you put into your videos. thx
good video, the voice over is great for learning, it seems the points come across clearer, also great craftsmanship
Beautiful work and great explanations throughout the video. I really learned and enjoyed your video very much, thank you
Nice refresher for my personal venture to build what my dad couldn't
Thanks for the tips , learned a little bit with your tips and attention to Detail!! , appreciate it
Great video and awesome work. Learned a lot. Thank you!
@@dvuono1 thanks!
You do good work. From an ex-concrete guy who is a perfectionist like you.
Thank you!
Very nice video. I like the voice-over. I learned a lot!
That’s good really good!!!! Great job buddy !!!!
Thank you!
Great tips, that turned out nice
Thanks!
Great work. I can tell that you know your stuff.
Looks great!! Lots of good tips too
Thanks!
Nice job, I like that you knock the forms off and work the side and front, the only thing I would add is a drip edge.
Thanks! By that do you mean an overhang on the porch or something different?
@@RathburnRanch I've seen guys use a rope on the 2x4 that goes against the porch. Once stripped, the rope comes off and creates a channel where water drips and can't drip down the face of the porch. My experience is that this is not a failure point of the porch in 20 years, in Michigan its always the surface
nice work! clean and neat
Thanks!
I just subscribed, joined the RANCH 👍✌
Welcome aboard!
Great work!
Thanks dude ❤
Great job 👍
Thanks!
Great work
Thanks!
Very nice job, and working single I think the best approach was to order the mud in. If there were 2, then you could save a packet on the concrete bill by mixing it yourself, and the screed bar could be the simpler version I guess. Nice result.
Thank you!
Okay I was going to tie my slab in by pouring it into my cinder block wall..
I saw another guy who says that's the wrong way to do it and he makes sense..
The slab expands and contracts and will break the cinder block wall at the joints..
So he lays tar paper on top of the cinder block wall before pouring the slab so that the slab can expand and contract and float on top of the wall without cracking the wall..
Nice work and great explanations! Who makes the handle you’re using on your broom?
I'm looking to do a very similar project after winter and am relieved to see that this is, I guess, small enough to not need rebar? What are you pouring the concrete onto though, is that pea gravel? I may not perfectly replicate this project (do the boards just help aesthetics afterward), but this helps make it feel manageable!
Awesome! Yes I would not be concerned about rebar or wire, it would not harm anything though. Every customer has a budget and I give that to them as an optional upgrade. Yes this is pea stone, that is the easiest for small jobs where you can’t feasibly compact sand in lifts. And no, all of the boards will be removed after it has cured to give the porch a cantilevered overhang for the cultured stone to dead end into. If you’re just leaving it as block- just use one 2x4 for a 1.5” overhang. Certainly manageable at this size, just be sure to oil your forms and vibrate or tap with a hammer on your edges. Best of luck!
awesome! keep up the content!
Thanks! Will do!
How do you seal the area between the concrete and the wooden wall below the door so water can't get in there? Flashing? I have this type of concrete porch and we are getting water in between and I'm not sure how to fix it...
What kind of screws do you use to drive the 2x4 into the cinder blocks?
I’m wanting to extend a covered slab porch on a 50s home. Is it cheaper to extend the slab and tie it in or demo the whole thing and build with wood? Thanks
It would depend on a few things. Condition of the existing porch/slab, Size, and finished look. I'm not a fan of maintenance of staining and sanding wood-However composite decking has come a long way. In almost every scenario it would be cheaper to do wood unless it is a very large demolition project.
Do you normally just use Grace "Ice & Water Shield" up against the house? No other flashing (like PVC coated aluminum)?
Correct, If it was a basement or something more crucial we could've added something more significant. However, if the siding contractor flashes the freeze board properly with sealant, flashing, and the proper trim shingling- there should never be water behind the slab!
My front porch is sinking inward and downward toward the house about two or 3 inches. It is concrete with brick steps and surrounding the porch. I am not sure how this porch foundation is built but I am looking for ways to fix this porch so it can be leveled. Could you give me some advice?
Did you pour footers under the blocks? I have never done concrete work and im looking to do this for my house. Please excuse my ignorance.
Absolutely. It will depend on your climate zone and local building code. Here is Michigan, the bottom of the footing needs to be 42" below finished grade.
Might a 26-gauge sheet of galvanized flashing Gorilla-glued to the house possibly protect the house from moisture associated with the steps? The siding of my house rotted because concrete was poured against my house with nothing separating the two. The only way for me to access and repair the rotting siding and sheathing and joist ends and sill plate is to remove the concrete steps.
Nice work boss. That's exactly how we do it in Ohio too. I always have a sponge float ready if the faces decide to get nasty on a hot day.
Thank you sir. I found the sponge float out a few years ago, absolute game changer in a pinch!
Did you remove your side form boards the same day if so about how long
Yes, depends on temperature. Usually 2-4 hours after pouring. Just comes with practice but I usually start to pull a side off slowly and watch if it sags at all. If it does, I screw it back in and give it a while
i watched one pro and he puts shingles over the holes in the cinder blocks so no concrete goes in and fills them he showed why and it makes sense to me ..
Anyone know if the next video was done yet - assuming one is made where the stone is added… I’d like to see it but don’t find on the channel. Thanks!
@@carguy1312 the homeowner changed their mind and said they didn’t want any stone
@@RathburnRanch darn, was excited to see that too. Thanks for the reply!
How much for a porch this size?
Ya those small load fees are getting crazy man, nice job
What’s inside the blocks already gravel?
No, I ended up filling them with the concrete from the porch cap. On a larger porch I wouldn’t recommend this. I typically fill the holes and separate the porch with visqueen, so that they are not bonded to the block. But with such a small porch, it is not as important!
Explain closing off the surface please.
No rebar?
How much you charged for this
Can you use motor oil on the forms
I’ve heard of people doing that. In theory yes it would work great, I just worry about staining. If I’m out of form oil or in a pinch, diesel works very well!
I bet your closer to a 2.5 inch slump
HIgh quality O.G. TH-cam right here.
Very nice !