i aint gona lie i rewinded it 3x, this youtube thing is just like a concrete pour, we all gota help each other the right way. u never know all tgusncould have started w that shout out i gave u
im a remodeler in the PNW. i repaired 120ft of rotten mudsill / sheathing/ siding/ framing/ french doors along the weathered side of a 6k sf McMansion for precisely this reason. kept me employed thru most of the pandemic. very expensive construction defect.
Now this is why I appreciate experts sharing their videos. I didn't know you could remove the form that soon. All this time I've never finished behind the form, thought that's just the way it was.
Thanks bro appreciate the great compliment ! I've been working concrete for 22 years and there still things I'm learning. I glad you learned something new
He never said how long he let it set-up, but also concrete hydration stops when moisture is gone. Forms should stay on for 2 or 3 days to keep concrete curing.
@@geoffgeoff3333 I've had many people ask about when to remove the forms and I'm honest when I say it's all about timing with concrete. That being said every day is different so many factors come to play when pouring Concrete. Weather conditions how wet you pour maybe you add excelerators or retardants. All I know from many years experience is when the concrete is hard enough to pull a well oiled form without the concrete jigging. I use my fingers and press down on the concrete and if it's hard enough to support me on knee boards it's ready to go. The earlier you can start the better off you will be. As far hydration for concrete it is good for it to cure inside the form but its okay they make concrete a lot better these days and I've only used curring methods in commercial concrete. So many rules and factors and regulations but in the end everyone just wants it done. Holy smokes that was long winded but have a great weekend and stay safe out there
@@thatjuanshow4485 Thanks for the details. Make sure the forms are well oiled and when it's firm enough for knee boarding, off with the forms and start finishing the verticals. I get what Geoff is saying about letting it cure in the forms, but when the job calls for finished verticals, them forms gotta come off.
Fantastic. This is everything I need to show me how to create the steps down to my garden. I have the two sides there already (imagine what you've built but if the steps were not there), with a 3-foot drop in the middle where I need the steps, and I just couldn't picture how to get the concrete right to the edges. Most videos show it with square box forms stacked on top of each other and filled in - fine for free-standing steps, but no good when you want to get to the edges - the forms would leave a gap. Now I see that the sides of the forms in your method don't hold back concrete of the steps at all, they just hold the front boards of the steps together (and the area beyond the steps, which I don't have to worry about because in my case that's already there. Could not have pictured that without your video! The edging and brushing and finishing were all explained perfectly, so I'm feeling confident about trying it for myself! Total beginner here, giving you a big thank you!
Nice stairs, but as a carpenter I would have liked to have seen you use a flashing layer like metal or even ice and water shield. I have repaired that very issue, rots the sheathing then the sill and framing.
It was a creamy mix it was a six sack . Buy honestly I don't know why he was doing it like that. You know some people do weird things sometimes. I would have just used my mag so my hands wouldn't get dirty
Beautiful finish on the concrete, but I didn't see any galvanized flashing between the concrete and the wood band sill, just Tyvek. I'd be worried about rotten band sill in the future. Other than that, looks good.
@@louish.9414 I am not a cement man. I don't know what zip system flashing is. Maybe that's the way to go. The gentlemen in the video did beautiful work and I like the stairs, but without some sort of barrier water will get in and cause rot.
Not debating here whether a permit is required or not but if inspected, I do not believe a building inspector would let that go without a galvanized flashing installed to the wood to concrete contact areas.
I'd be keeping that wet and covered for several days. Don't know the weather, nor the time of the pour but cracked concrete breaks my heart. I see it on new jobs all the time. Saying that though, yer man it look easy, with a beautiful and practical finish.
There is no real time for concrete the timing is all about how it feels. The concrete tells you when its time to do the the required. But The way to tell Is to use your fingers to press on the concrete and when its hard enough that your impression are only about half inch deep then its time. If i was to put a real time when its hot outside like thay day probably about 1 hour before disassembly and finishing and if its cold like under 50 then your wait time would probably be around 3hrs before removal. Concrete work especially stairs are pretty complicated I have 25 years experience. But important to remember if pouring stairs use good form release for easy form removal if you dont a whole new nightmare will show up. Good luck if you have anymore questions id be happy to help
Great looking / tight work! 💪Obviously not your first rodeo, so you probably did what was requested by the GC / Owner, but in our region (due to heavy rainfall, ground conditions and subterranean termites, etc. we don’t / can’t “trap” structural wood framing behind exterior concrete that’s bearing on soil / grade like it’s shown here. Heck, we even have to pre-treat everywhere any sidewalks / pads butt against the conc. foundation. With these stairs, we’d be required to apply a premium basement weatherproofing membrane system with minimum 1/2” air gap and or extend the foundation / basement wall concrete in that section above the front stoop elevation / to FFE, also with a weatherproofing system in between the two pours, as well as an integrated door sill pan and integrated wall flashing completed and inspected before the pour. Definitely not being critical, mainly just observations as it’s always interesting to see the differences of common building practices from one region to another. ✌🏻
I agree with what you're saying and when the job is in my control I to believe in taking all those steps of precautions. But when you work for some people it's a one way road
there's no set timing in concrete every day is different but the way I can tell when it's ready to strip and face the concrete is when you can touch the concrete with your fingers and it's hard enough to support your weight then I'll start stripping if the mud jiggles I'll give it a few more minutes
Mint stairs. Good shots of the formwork. Is there a certain additive, or concrete mix to get the concrete to keep its shape once you pull the formwork off, or a standard brew will do the same?
The mix used for that pour was a pea gravel blend mix used for custom concrete pours . The concrete stays when its at the right time to pull the forms. A good form oil will also help on easy form removal
I get it, trust me i get that alot. ppl ask me why no wire mesh, because they didn't want to spend the extra money or were penny pinching from the start
Stairs look good.. Your form work nice and straight...!! The mud looked nice and rich.. 2500 psi or better.. Nice to pour a 3/8" rock mix vs a 1" rock mix when it comes to finishing stairs.. It doesn't look like you coved the stairs , Easy to do.. You had time to do that.. But none the less, it came out looking sweet.. Nice job..!
Great comment thanks for watching! In Washington state and with the strength in concrete over there covering the concrete afterwards is not needed for cure time
Awesome video Juan! What type of mix was the concrete? The way it appeared when it was being pumped in to the formwork, it was like the were no rocks in the mix and provided a great finish
Love doing concrete, I've done a few stairs though I used a bit more backfill for foot traffic.....sometimes you want it anchored to structure other times you dont.....
Personally if it was place i would have put more fill so its not such a heavy block of concrete. I was there helping a friend as a finsher so I had no dealings in the logistics
Yah I always like to use form oil real form oil is the only way to go. After a bored has been oiled multiple times through life that's when they start to just fall off. Over here no one uses oil and every time we have to strip and face the face sticks to the bored and man do I hate thay
I have used pro line step liners! I've used the big bull nose ones quite a few times and your right they make for a good finish. It's just not very popular around here people don't always want to spend the extra to get the next level up
I don't charge any extra really, I use them as patio liners alot. I kinda just use it to set my work apart, I have 3 different types 2 inch 5 and 8 inch. I charge alot and then throw those in for not much more
In my opinion, most control joints in a set of stairs are for looks. Control joints only work if your concrete is the same thickness so if it does crack it follows the joint. In a set of stairs your depth varies. So for me ive always put joints in stairs fo decorative purpose. More rebar reinforced concrete would be the best bet for a strong set of stairs and to limit cracking
Not really a secret I wish i was that good lol. For me I think using a premium foem oil is key make sure your concrete forms are well oiled. After pouring the concrete then its all about the timing. When the concrete is hard enough to press three fingers into the concrete and you determine that its hard enough to pull the forms. If i feel like the concrete could hold my weight with my finger press method. Once hard enough its time to pull forms. Only strip one side at a time so you dont let air to the rest of the pour air is what srts concrete off faster. Once you start to pull forms tap them with hammer to loosen dont pull straight out wiggle up and down until its free. Finish one side at a time and repeat till done. Ive been pouring concrete for 24 years most of these things come with lots of experience. Good luck if you need anymore help with your projects feel free ti hit me up . Hope you have success and a great day
New to learning concrete. I was wondering if you need to fill the entire taller columns with concrete or if you could fill it part way with other material and add to it from there. Thanks.
No tyvek is not flashing. Flashing would be ice and water shield or metal flashing. Tyveck through years may fail and eventually possibly let water in . I realize that tyvek is not the best for this application I was just a hired finisher for the job. Had I been in control it would have been done correctly . But in the end it's up to the builder to provide or pay for you to install the correct product. Cheaping out is never worth it. Hope this answers your question. thanks for watching and commenting have a great weekend
When the concrete is hard enough that when you use three fingers and push down on the concrete if it's hard enough to support your body weight on a pair of knee boards then it's ready. When pulling forms they should be well oiled with form release and when you pull the forms you tap them first downward then lift up on board not out and wiggling it up and down. If the concrete is jiggling and looks like it may sluff then give it a few more minutes. There is no set time it's all about feel lots of factors to consider
Approximately an hour or so after concrete is in the forms and everything has been layed down. Best advice is use your fingers to tell how hard it is. I use my first three fingers to press down about a foot in from the edges. If the concrete is hard enough that when i press down it only imprints about 1/4inch thats when i start the process of form removal. Important to remember if the concrete is still jiggly when stripping its to early. Also Important is to always use a good form oil couple coats before the pour. Good luck hope this advice helps
@@thatjuanshow4485 a big thank you for your answer. i have to poor stairs 6 steps with side wall. my steps are 7'' high by 12'' long with a top step 48'' x 20'' my wall are 7'' wide x 10 foots long. base between the wall 40'' , and i will mix myself the concrete and poor it too. a big joob for a 60 years old man. just came to finish the form and i put reabar at each scare foot, 3/8 size... hope it will be ok
big day today. i poured my walls and stairs.. big job for one alone man... i will remove the walls forms tomorrow morning it will be 24 hours since pouring. good night
The timing depends on if your stripping the forms off to finish it needs to be hard enough that if you were to theoretically stand on it it would be hard enough to support your weight with only small impressions. Use your fingers to test it by pressing down on the surface. Good form oil definitely helps the process. Hope this helps little have a great weekend and good luck on your concrete adventure
First of all who water test a set of stairs they just poured.... oh wait a union finisher lol because they don't know how to use a level or snap there own lines and take any responsibility for anything. Union is fine for someone who only wants to know one thing there whole life and not even be that great at it. I've worked along Union masons and the can only pour one thing curb or big slabs they never touch actual custom concrete and they only know how to get it down fast and have someone come in after and patch it for them. I've been in the biz for 22 years and I know a crap talking greenhorn when I see em I bet your 25 to 30 range been doing concrete for the last five and you think your the man. It's cool bro don't hate a least I got the balls to put my work out there let's have a look from your side show us how the pros do it. Any how thanks for watching partner dont forget to give me a thumbs up and hit that subscribe button 🤙🏽
Wanted to know if you have any videos explaining how you put together your forms. Just like with the stairs. I understand there must be a practical method for placing screws, ect. Good finish. Cheers from NC.
Nice job Juan- looks fantastic I also didn’t know you could pull the form so quick and finish beind it. How come there’s no aggregate in the concrete? It looks like sand is the largest particle. Is that best for stairs?
Thanks I thought they turned out nice as well. The mix we used was a pea gravel 6 sack the concrete plant calls it there stamp mix. It's just easy to use when doing decorative concrete . Big rock always makes for stronger concrete but finishing concrete with big rock can be hard.
@maxdex8 I say ruffley an hour. Timing is all about the feel of concrete. I would start taking of hard ware as soon as I think the forms will hold the concrete without jiggle.i start by taking of kickers this will be a good indicator if it's ready to keep going. If the concrete doesn't move I I'll take out the stakes with minimal banging on them so it doesn't jiggle the mud. After that I'll give it my finger test three fingers press down on concrete if it's hard enough to support your weight. Like if you were to go on it with foam board you won't sink At all. That's when it's time to take the sides off. Make sure you use a good form oil as well that's truly the key for easy form removal. Hope this helps let me know if I can assist some more down the road. Have a great day
@@thatjuanshow4485 super informative! Thank you. I am about to take on a bunch of random work on a home project in Portugal. A stair case, terra cotta brick work, stone wall restoration n more....they call there mix "dough" and use wine bottle base imprints to add traction for cement walkways. Your lessons will be used. Happy Sunday
Great looking stairs... But I'm interested in the slope, particularly on the landing, I read the comments, and I watched the whole video, but I didn't hear anything about a slope away from the house... Wouldn't a heavy downpour send the water towards the siding?
When pouring flat work I put no less than 3/16th per inch of slope on concrete. As long as you screed it flat there will be no standing or back flowing water. Plus the whole porch was going to be covered. I think that's the reason the owner and quy I was working for op-ed out for more bar and flashing but each to there own
The ply on the side is inch and a 1/8 concrete panels used for pouring walls. Vibration is good but something small like this with the right Slump a good hammer tap Vibration is sufficient enough
Thank you! There's no set time on pulling off the forms it's all about timing and it's different every day. I like to wait till the mud is hard enough that when I start to pull my well oiled forms the concrete don't jiggle or sluff
Depends on how high you're pouring too. On bigger jobs you pretty much never pull forms the same day. Pull nails maybe. The biggest disadvantage (besides the risk of wrecking your pour if you pull forms too early) is that forms trap moisture, so if you pull them same day, make sure you cover the concrete back up with plastic and keep it wet. Pouring dry and curing wet are the two biggest factors in how long your concrete lasts
In a set of stairs that big I personally would add rebar in it but its up to the homeowner to pay for it as an additional expense. Rebar in flatwork is often left out but the thicker and bigger the concrete is the more likely it is to crack and the Rebar doesn't stop cracks from happening but it definitely helps keep it from cracking. For a extra hundred or so dollars I bet he'd add it in. Hope this helps let me know if there's anything else I could help with. Have a great weekend
@@thatjuanshow4485 thank you for the info, the contractor is discouraging the use of rebar and it worries me - I don’t mind paying the extra cost especially on a project like this one. I think I should get at least 2-more estimates and ask more questions. Hope you’re having a nice weekend too!
Vibrating concrete could be done in all applications in different ways. When it comes to standard stairs I only tap the forms with my mag handle or hammer. That just jiggles the mud enough just to make it smooth on the face and fills in the void in the stair faces. If I do form liner stairs I use a pencil vibrator to get more cream to the face. When Vibrating for walls curbs or anything that typically vertical or has lots of rebar you use a vibrator for consolidation to get the concrete around the bar and to make the air escape through the top doing so will give you a smooth finish on the walls. In a commercial work setting the inspector will have you vibrate pretty much anything over 4" thick. Hope this helps good luck out there
![Construction of Concrete Stairway Start to Finish [ASMR]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/xoNmEFEM6fE/mqdefault.jpg)
Very impressed! I'm retiring after 40 years at the end of this season. I'll miss it, but now I'll be able to watch you do amazing work!
Glad you found my channel Ill do my best to keep it informative and interesting 🤙🏽
im gona watch it on my dads phone too and do the exact same thing. 3x 4 my guy juan. u r the man. and i can tell u got a good heart
i aint gona lie i rewinded it 3x, this youtube thing is just like a concrete pour, we all gota help each other the right way. u never know all tgusncould have started w that shout out i gave u
im a remodeler in the PNW. i repaired 120ft of rotten mudsill / sheathing/ siding/ framing/ french doors along the weathered side of a 6k sf McMansion for precisely this reason. kept me employed thru most of the pandemic. very expensive construction defect.
Now this is why I appreciate experts sharing their videos. I didn't know you could remove the form that soon. All this time I've never finished behind the form, thought that's just the way it was.
Thanks bro appreciate the great compliment ! I've been working concrete for 22 years and there still things I'm learning. I glad you learned something new
He never said how long he let it set-up, but also concrete hydration stops when moisture is gone. Forms should stay on for 2 or 3 days to keep concrete curing.
@@geoffgeoff3333 I've had many people ask about when to remove the forms and I'm honest when I say it's all about timing with concrete. That being said every day is different so many factors come to play when pouring Concrete. Weather conditions how wet you pour maybe you add excelerators or retardants. All I know from many years experience is when the concrete is hard enough to pull a well oiled form without the concrete jigging. I use my fingers and press down on the concrete and if it's hard enough to support me on knee boards it's ready to go. The earlier you can start the better off you will be. As far hydration for concrete it is good for it to cure inside the form but its okay they make concrete a lot better these days and I've only used curring methods in commercial concrete. So many rules and factors and regulations but in the end everyone just wants it done. Holy smokes that was long winded but have a great weekend and stay safe out there
@@thatjuanshow4485 Thanks for the details. Make sure the forms are well oiled and when it's firm enough for knee boarding, off with the forms and start finishing the verticals. I get what Geoff is saying about letting it cure in the forms, but when the job calls for finished verticals, them forms gotta come off.
Thanks for explaining it so well@@thatjuanshow4485
Fantastic. This is everything I need to show me how to create the steps down to my garden. I have the two sides there already (imagine what you've built but if the steps were not there), with a 3-foot drop in the middle where I need the steps, and I just couldn't picture how to get the concrete right to the edges.
Most videos show it with square box forms stacked on top of each other and filled in - fine for free-standing steps, but no good when you want to get to the edges - the forms would leave a gap.
Now I see that the sides of the forms in your method don't hold back concrete of the steps at all, they just hold the front boards of the steps together (and the area beyond the steps, which I don't have to worry about because in my case that's already there. Could not have pictured that without your video!
The edging and brushing and finishing were all explained perfectly, so I'm feeling confident about trying it for myself! Total beginner here, giving you a big thank you!
Wow, Beautiful Upload friend. keep it up. Thank you for sharing this to us. Greetings from Korea
I appreciate your complements thank you for watching! Aloha from
Hawaii
Nice stairs, but as a carpenter I would have liked to have seen you use a flashing layer like metal or even ice and water shield. I have repaired that very issue, rots the sheathing then the sill and framing.
Props to Juan for not deleting the comment
Nice stairs, but as a nobody I would have liked to seen you put in a slide :)
Repaired that issue twice now, bad rot, maybe it's not so much of an issue in southern California? as it is in the PNW but best practices and all.
Also in Canada, we like to bevel our riser board so it angles in to give a 1” (25mm) nosing along with the 1/4” slope per tread
@@dmerritt4ever ts109 is correct.
Even though it might not be an issue there, do it so it can never become an issue. It’s just good practice.
Thank you Juan. Impressed with your skill.
appreciate the great comment thank you 🤙🏽
does that mudd cone out really creamy, is that why he was moxing it up w his hand?
It was a creamy mix it was a six sack . Buy honestly I don't know why he was doing it like that. You know some people do weird things sometimes. I would have just used my mag so my hands wouldn't get dirty
@@thatjuanshow4485 exactly
nice work brother, u guys rock
Nice work man! Im local to you, Loved hearing 99.9 in the background. Quality finishing
Beautiful finish on the concrete, but I didn't see any galvanized flashing between the concrete and the wood band sill, just Tyvek. I'd be worried about rotten band sill in the future. Other than that, looks good.
They never want to use the metal flashing. I had the whole front of my house rot out because of this omission.
Or zip system flashing
@@louish.9414 I am not a cement man. I don't know what zip system flashing is. Maybe that's the way to go. The gentlemen in the video did beautiful work and I like the stairs, but without some sort of barrier water will get in and cause rot.
No doubt. Rot is going to set in pretty quickly. That’s gonna be a hell of a repair down the road. It does look nice though.
Not debating here whether a permit is required or not but if inspected, I do not believe a building inspector would let that go without a galvanized flashing installed to the wood to concrete contact areas.
Guy wicked nice job I was getting nervous looked like it was really taking off. Awesome forming awesome finishing
Thanks not too bad for Juan guy!
@@thatjuanshow4485 Juan hell of a job
I'd be keeping that wet and covered for several days. Don't know the weather, nor the time of the pour but cracked concrete breaks my heart. I see it on new jobs all the time. Saying that though, yer man it look easy, with a beautiful and practical finish.
WOW !!
You are absolutely amazing
Do u ever cut your face boards at a 45 degree angle?
Around the time "Warp" drive is invented this set will be the only thing standing at this site.. Nice work.
That set of stairs and the roaches that's it lol!
You guys at victory concrete do great work.... keep it up!
I don't know who victory concrete is I've heard of them never seen . But thanks for the compliment it's much appreciated
@@thatjuanshow4485 cappin ahh 😂
How long do you wait before you pull forms off and begin cleaning up the damp surface?
There is no real time for concrete the timing is all about how it feels. The concrete tells you when its time to do the the required. But The way to tell Is to use your fingers to press on the concrete and when its hard enough that your impression are only about half inch deep then its time. If i was to put a real time when its hot outside like thay day probably about 1 hour before disassembly and finishing and if its cold like under 50 then your wait time would probably be around 3hrs before removal. Concrete work especially stairs are pretty complicated I have 25 years experience. But important to remember if pouring stairs use good form release for easy form removal if you dont a whole new nightmare will show up. Good luck if you have anymore questions id be happy to help
Not bad for one man show. Nicely done 👌🏽
thanks bro I thought they turned out pretty well myself
That's some beautiful concrete... What did you have like all sand and 3 rocks?
no no smarty pants its called a blend mix you silly goose
Absolutely awsome work man, not easy at all, verry good job. Top notch
Thanks I always enjoy pouring stairs!
Clean work...
Been a cement Mason for about 22yrs steps always made me a bit nervous...
Great job
Thanks bro been in the concrete biz for about 22 years myself
Incredible work!
Thanks much appreciated
stairs look good i learned some new stuff
Great looking / tight work! 💪Obviously not your first rodeo, so you probably did what was requested by the GC / Owner, but in our region (due to heavy rainfall, ground conditions and subterranean termites, etc. we don’t / can’t “trap” structural wood framing behind exterior concrete that’s bearing on soil / grade like it’s shown here. Heck, we even have to pre-treat everywhere any sidewalks / pads butt against the conc. foundation. With these stairs, we’d be required to apply a premium basement weatherproofing membrane system with minimum 1/2” air gap and or extend the foundation / basement wall concrete in that section above the front stoop elevation / to FFE, also with a weatherproofing system in between the two pours, as well as an integrated door sill pan and integrated wall flashing completed and inspected before the pour.
Definitely not being critical, mainly just observations as it’s always interesting to see the differences of common building practices from one region to another. ✌🏻
I agree with what you're saying and when the job is in my control I to believe in taking all those steps of precautions. But when you work for some people it's a one way road
We did end up putting some more tyveck on the exposed wood but like you said
Thanks for the response and I wish you great success. Finding a mason / concrete contractor that takes pride in their work is a rarity these days.
Hello friend, how long must the wood stay before take out and form the concrete? Sorry for my English
there's no set timing in concrete every day is different but the way I can tell when it's ready to strip and face the concrete is when you can touch the concrete with your fingers and it's hard enough to support your weight then I'll start stripping if the mud jiggles I'll give it a few more minutes
@@thatjuanshow4485 ok, thank you so much
Mint stairs. Good shots of the formwork. Is there a certain additive, or concrete mix to get the concrete to keep its shape once you pull the formwork off, or a standard brew will do the same?
The mix used for that pour was a pea gravel blend mix used for custom concrete pours . The concrete stays when its at the right time to pull the forms. A good form oil will also help on easy form removal
Really nice work. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching and commenting always appreciated
i rewound it and watched it again bro, hope it help it keeps pumping lol. the video not rhe mudd
Thanks bro your support is like no other ! Let's keep it going big dog
@@thatjuanshow4485 4 sure u a real 1
السلام عليكم زين الفريم اشلون طلعته نرجو التوضيح
Nice steps
Why didn't u use fill? And pour it all 5 to 6 inches thick?
That would make to much sense haha. This job wasn't mine it was up to my buddy and the homeowner.
I get it, trust me i get that alot. ppl ask me why no wire mesh, because they didn't want to spend the extra money or were penny pinching from the start
Just subscribed to your channel bud! Let's just keep being badasses that pour badass concrete 💪🏼. We're a dying breed 😎
Stairs look good.. Your form work nice and straight...!! The mud looked nice and rich.. 2500 psi or better.. Nice to pour a 3/8" rock mix vs a 1" rock mix when it comes to finishing stairs.. It doesn't look like you coved the stairs , Easy to do.. You had time to do that.. But none the less, it came out looking sweet.. Nice job..!
Great comment thanks for watching! In Washington state and with the strength in concrete over there covering the concrete afterwards is not needed for cure time
damn juan u a beast at steps! wow thats alot for 1 guy
Hell yeah that was a lot of work I was beat afterwards. He said he didn't want to get in my way lol
u guys killed it!!!!!!! very giod video
one of the best finishers I've seen on TH-cam so far. good stuff brother
Thanks bud I really appreciate that perseverance dedication and the will to get it done has came along ways.
Skills acknowledged friend. Excellent craftsmanship.
Thank you
Awesome video Juan! What type of mix was the concrete? The way it appeared when it was being pumped in to the formwork, it was like the were no rocks in the mix and provided a great finish
The mixis what the plant calls the stamp mix. Pretty much pea gravel and a high cement ratio making it super creamy
Absolutely beautiful. Question: did you pour footers for this?
Thanky for the great compliment! Answer is no footer whole piece was monolith
Superb work and outstanding result!! Your vids just started popping up in my feed and glad they did. New sub here and thanks for the awesome channel
Thank you for the sub I'm glad that you enjoy the vids hope you have a great rest of your day
juan, did you have any admixtures from the concrete plant into the mix or did you cake the forms in oil?
Just used form oil / release
Great job, greetings from Phoenix!
Thanks so much aloha from the Big Island
Love doing concrete, I've done a few stairs though I used a bit more backfill for foot traffic.....sometimes you want it anchored to structure other times you dont.....
Personally if it was place i would have put more fill so its not such a heavy block of concrete. I was there helping a friend as a finsher so I had no dealings in the logistics
subscribed in the first 10 seconds. knew this would be good.
Thank you! Turned out pretty good didn't it
damn those faces came off nice, did u oil them?
Yah I always like to use form oil real form oil is the only way to go. After a bored has been oiled multiple times through life that's when they start to just fall off. Over here no one uses oil and every time we have to strip and face the face sticks to the bored and man do I hate thay
@thatjuanshow4485 ok, we still on for sunday?
I need something similar done, but without the steps. Exactly. What kind of estimate should i expect? Basically 6 x 6 x 2. Great job!
This set was about 2500 for concrete and labor but with today's prices maybe 1000 more .
Hey Juan, u ever use pro line step liners? Man they r sweet, they look great and you don't really have to scrub out anything
I have used pro line step liners! I've used the big bull nose ones quite a few times and your right they make for a good finish. It's just not very popular around here people don't always want to spend the extra to get the next level up
I don't charge any extra really, I use them as patio liners alot. I kinda just use it to set my work apart, I have 3 different types 2 inch 5 and 8 inch. I charge alot and then throw those in for not much more
@@GRUBB-MUDD 👍
At what point would stairs like this need a joint cut in? Great video!
In my opinion, most control joints in a set of stairs are for looks. Control joints only work if your concrete is the same thickness so if it does crack it follows the joint. In a set of stairs your depth varies. So for me ive always put joints in stairs fo decorative purpose. More rebar reinforced concrete would be the best bet for a strong set of stairs and to limit cracking
What is your secret to removing concrete formwork so quickly? I've never seen that in France! And I'm interested in smoothing the inside of my steps!
Not really a secret I wish i was that good lol. For me I think using a premium foem oil is key make sure your concrete forms are well oiled. After pouring the concrete then its all about the timing. When the concrete is hard enough to press three fingers into the concrete and you determine that its hard enough to pull the forms. If i feel like the concrete could hold my weight with my finger press method. Once hard enough its time to pull forms. Only strip one side at a time so you dont let air to the rest of the pour air is what srts concrete off faster. Once you start to pull forms tap them with hammer to loosen dont pull straight out wiggle up and down until its free. Finish one side at a time and repeat till done. Ive been pouring concrete for 24 years most of these things come with lots of experience. Good luck if you need anymore help with your projects feel free ti hit me up . Hope you have success and a great day
How would you do slopped sides on an inset stair?
I would build the slope in my forms putting about 1/8 to 3/16 slope on the forms so water comes of easy
taking the time to edge those both ways makes all the difference in the world, i need to get some step tools! 4 real
Since I've got step tools my life has changed on that style work definitely woth the money
Myself, need a couple more braces just in case. We always pour steps with horsehair fiber so we can strip a little quicker. Nice job guys!!
Great work! Nice to see pride in one’s work still exists.
Thanks for the great compliment it very much appreciated
New to learning concrete. I was wondering if you need to fill the entire taller columns with concrete or if you could fill it part way with other material and add to it from there. Thanks.
Thise set of stairs could have used more fill. You can put the fill in to 4 inches lower than concrete on the top with thickend edges
Thank you so much. That will be helpful@@thatjuanshow4485
Hi Juan...love this job/video....what were the dimensions of these stairs?
Pretty sure those stairs were 2x6 risers 4ft wide with 2ft pop outs on the side.
@@thatjuanshow4485 Great work!
Very well done ! gorgeous stairs
Thank you! Cheers!
So the Tyvek is your flashing?
No tyvek is not flashing. Flashing would be ice and water shield or metal flashing. Tyveck through years may fail and eventually possibly let water in . I realize that tyvek is not the best for this application I was just a hired finisher for the job. Had I been in control it would have been done correctly . But in the end it's up to the builder to provide or pay for you to install the correct product. Cheaping out is never worth it. Hope this answers your question. thanks for watching and commenting have a great weekend
How do you know when to take forms off? Thank you
When the concrete is hard enough that when you use three fingers and push down on the concrete if it's hard enough to support your body weight on a pair of knee boards then it's ready. When pulling forms they should be well oiled with form release and when you pull the forms you tap them first downward then lift up on board not out and wiggling it up and down. If the concrete is jiggling and looks like it may sluff then give it a few more minutes. There is no set time it's all about feel lots of factors to consider
Really nice work dude, they look great
Thank you appreciate it!
super good job. how long after pooring you removed your form to be able to broom
Approximately an hour or so after concrete is in the forms and everything has been layed down. Best advice is use your fingers to tell how hard it is. I use my first three fingers to press down about a foot in from the edges. If the concrete is hard enough that when i press down it only imprints about 1/4inch thats when i start the process of form removal. Important to remember if the concrete is still jiggly when stripping its to early. Also Important is to always use a good form oil couple coats before the pour. Good luck hope this advice helps
@@thatjuanshow4485 a big thank you for your answer. i have to poor stairs 6 steps with side wall.
my steps are 7'' high by 12'' long with a top step 48'' x 20'' my wall are 7'' wide x 10 foots long. base between the wall 40'' , and i will mix myself the concrete and poor it too. a big joob for a 60 years old man. just came to finish the form and i put reabar at each scare foot, 3/8 size... hope it will be ok
big day today.
i poured my walls and stairs.. big job for one alone man... i will remove the walls forms tomorrow morning it will be 24 hours since pouring. good night
Great work man, just curious how long you let it cure before taking the forms off?
The timing depends on if your stripping the forms off to finish it needs to be hard enough that if you were to theoretically stand on it it would be hard enough to support your weight with only small impressions. Use your fingers to test it by pressing down on the surface. Good form oil definitely helps the process. Hope this helps little have a great weekend and good luck on your concrete adventure
Fair job...no coves...did you water test the steps for puddles? Join a union and learn from the pros.
First of all who water test a set of stairs they just poured.... oh wait a union finisher lol because they don't know how to use a level or snap there own lines and take any responsibility for anything. Union is fine for someone who only wants to know one thing there whole life and not even be that great at it. I've worked along Union masons and the can only pour one thing curb or big slabs they never touch actual custom concrete and they only know how to get it down fast and have someone come in after and patch it for them. I've been in the biz for 22 years and I know a crap talking greenhorn when I see em I bet your 25 to 30 range been doing concrete for the last five and you think your the man. It's cool bro don't hate a least I got the balls to put my work out there let's have a look from your side show us how the pros do it. Any how thanks for watching partner dont forget to give me a thumbs up and hit that subscribe button 🤙🏽
Everything looks great!
Thank you much appreciated!
*VERY NICE*
Beautiful. What does something like this cost? A range? Turnkey
In the 3k range
Wanted to know if you have any videos explaining how you put together your forms. Just like with the stairs. I understand there must be a practical method for placing screws, ect. Good finish. Cheers from NC.
Form work for stairs can be tricky but unfortunately I haven't made a set up video for a set of stairs yet.
@@thatjuanshow4485 no worries man. Im going to give it the old trial and error. Keep up the good work.
I wish you were over here in Melbourne, Australia. Would hire you in a heartbeat. Great job!!
Thanks bud I appreciate that! 21 years in the business has taught me a thing or two.
Great finish
great job, what class of concrete?
The concrete was a pea gravel mix 4000 psi Six sack cement
How must something like cost?
Nice job Juan- looks fantastic
I also didn’t know you could pull the form so quick and finish beind it.
How come there’s no aggregate in the concrete? It looks like sand is the largest particle. Is that best for stairs?
Thanks I thought they turned out nice as well. The mix we used was a pea gravel 6 sack the concrete plant calls it there stamp mix. It's just easy to use when doing decorative concrete . Big rock always makes for stronger concrete but finishing concrete with big rock can be hard.
@@thatjuanshow4485 thanks for the info. You’re a master
@@thatjuanshow4485 wondering... how soon you did pull that form away? also, great job.
@maxdex8 I say ruffley an hour. Timing is all about the feel of concrete. I would start taking of hard ware as soon as I think the forms will hold the concrete without jiggle.i start by taking of kickers this will be a good indicator if it's ready to keep going. If the concrete doesn't move I I'll take out the stakes with minimal banging on them so it doesn't jiggle the mud. After that I'll give it my finger test three fingers press down on concrete if it's hard enough to support your weight. Like if you were to go on it with foam board you won't sink At all. That's when it's time to take the sides off. Make sure you use a good form oil as well that's truly the key for easy form removal. Hope this helps let me know if I can assist some more down the road. Have a great day
@@thatjuanshow4485 super informative! Thank you. I am about to take on a bunch of random work on a home project in Portugal. A stair case, terra cotta brick work, stone wall restoration n more....they call there mix "dough" and use wine bottle base imprints to add traction for cement walkways. Your lessons will be used. Happy Sunday
excellent craftsmanship
Great compliment thank you it very much appreciated
Great work.
Thank you very much appreciated!
Great set of stairs
Thanks much appreciated!
WOW! very, very nice job!
Thanks very much appreciated!
That's Juan good set of stairs
Juan of the best on you tube!
Real nice work, my G
Thank you for the great compliment have a great weekend
What mix is that and what did you use for form release. The forms came off easily!
We used a six sack pea gravel blend the plant called it a Stamp mix. The form oil was unitex
👍
Rock Star Quality work!!
Very nice 👌 👍 👏 😀
Thanks I try hard
Beautiful work
Thanks for the compliment.
Great looking stairs...
But I'm interested in the slope, particularly on the landing, I read the comments, and I watched the whole video, but I didn't hear anything about a slope away from the house... Wouldn't a heavy downpour send the water towards the siding?
When pouring flat work I put no less than 3/16th per inch of slope on concrete. As long as you screed it flat there will be no standing or back flowing water. Plus the whole porch was going to be covered. I think that's the reason the owner and quy I was working for op-ed out for more bar and flashing but each to there own
Nice work Man .
Thanks appreciate the compliment!
What size plywood is that on the sides? Did you guys vibrate the sides?
The ply on the side is inch and a 1/8 concrete panels used for pouring walls. Vibration is good but something small like this with the right Slump a good hammer tap Vibration is sufficient enough
Looks good man
Thanks very much appreciated
You're very skilled.
Thank you I have almost 23 years under my belt
That is some pretty work bro
Thanks definitely appreciated!
How long did you wait until you started removing those forms? Nice job, looks amazing.
Thank you! There's no set time on pulling off the forms it's all about timing and it's different every day. I like to wait till the mud is hard enough that when I start to pull my well oiled forms the concrete don't jiggle or sluff
Depends on how high you're pouring too. On bigger jobs you pretty much never pull forms the same day. Pull nails maybe. The biggest disadvantage (besides the risk of wrecking your pour if you pull forms too early) is that forms trap moisture, so if you pull them same day, make sure you cover the concrete back up with plastic and keep it wet. Pouring dry and curing wet are the two biggest factors in how long your concrete lasts
If a contractor tells you that rebar is not required, should that disqualify them? 9’ L x 4’ W x 2’ H plus steps
In a set of stairs that big I personally would add rebar in it but its up to the homeowner to pay for it as an additional expense. Rebar in flatwork is often left out but the thicker and bigger the concrete is the more likely it is to crack and the Rebar doesn't stop cracks from happening but it definitely helps keep it from cracking. For a extra hundred or so dollars I bet he'd add it in. Hope this helps let me know if there's anything else I could help with. Have a great weekend
@@thatjuanshow4485 thank you for the info, the contractor is discouraging the use of rebar and it worries me - I don’t mind paying the extra cost especially on a project like this one. I think I should get at least 2-more estimates and ask more questions. Hope you’re having a nice weekend too!
I love ❤️ concrete beautiful 😍 job a man takes ❤️ pride in his job
Thanks bro! Have a great weekend 🤙🏽
Is that pea gravel mix ? Not sure what mix is it ?
Yes it was a pee gravel mix six sack with fiber mesh
Thank you for your video !
How long before you take the forms out?
I wait until it's hard enough to pull my well oiled forms off with out it jiggling or stuffing there's no set time it's all how it feels
I'm wondering when you need to vibrate the concrete down to remove air bubbles? Obviously you (rightly) decided it wasn't necessary here. Why is that?
Vibrating concrete could be done in all applications in different ways. When it comes to standard stairs I only tap the forms with my mag handle or hammer. That just jiggles the mud enough just to make it smooth on the face and fills in the void in the stair faces. If I do form liner stairs I use a pencil vibrator to get more cream to the face. When Vibrating for walls curbs or anything that typically vertical or has lots of rebar you use a vibrator for consolidation to get the concrete around the bar and to make the air escape through the top doing so will give you a smooth finish on the walls. In a commercial work setting the inspector will have you vibrate pretty much anything over 4" thick. Hope this helps good luck out there
Nice mud
Did that mud have any aggregate ?
The concrete was what the concrete calls a stamp mix it's more or less like a 60 - 40 pea gravel mix
does the landing at the top meet code ?
It definitely meets code 3'ft landing
fantastic job! total respect for your efforts!
Thank you for the great compliment very much appreciated
Great job really BUT maybe cheaper to just buy precast but I'd certainly prefer this for sure 👌👍👌👍
What is the mix, and are there any additives?
that shade helped abunch
plz pin the 78 thousand commnert i made