Thank you for your feedback! We are glad to hear that! Please, make sure to get in touch with us anytime you need help selecting the suitable part for your vehicle. Best Regards, Autodoc Team
As much as I love your videos. Which saved my life.. I should point out you guys should mention when an alignment is needed. Especially the tie rod end video.
Terrific video! Thanks so much! I feel bad even mentioning something that can make it better. If you guys Gave those housings a quick cleanup. Either with a glass bead tape abrasive set up or on a wire brush. It would take 30 seconds and make everything look even more professional than already does but thanks so much
Allways tighten bolts with right momentum. Using the impact wrench like that can damage the bolts/nuts. You dont know if you used too much or to little torque on the bolts, and that car can now be dangerous to drive if the bolts got stretched and break off. Or in the other case if they should unscrew themself.
Agreed. All bolts in this job should be correctly torqued to original spec using a proper torque wrench. This is good practice and overtightening can make the bolts difficult to remove, stretch the metal, or crack. Air wrench/impact wrench is fine for removing but is bad practice for retightening, and should not be shown like this in a repair video. Shops do it all the time, but it's wrong.
An alignment is typically needed after this job. If you are certain the front wheels are properly aligned to begin with, and you mark the exact position of the strut/wheel hub assembly bolts before removing, reinsert and tighten in same marked position (95Nm torque as per VW repair manual, not air wrench) you may not need an alignment. If your tires are showing any signs of being out of alignment, are unsure of alignment, or you do not mark the position of the bolts when removing, yes you absolutely need an alignment.
The VW official repair manual specified torque for the wheel hub nut is 265Nm for Mk3 Golf/Jetta and Cabrio. Tighten as much as possible with socket wrench while car is lifted up, then tighten to final torque spec once the wheels are back on and the car is on the ground. Absolutely DO NOT attempt to tighten this nut to final torque spec with an air wrench while the car is lifted.
STEP 1 - Loosen the goddam axle nut while the car is still on the ground lest ye may never get it off! I seriously can't believe this video shows the nut being loosened after everything else is disconnected... WOW. And no mention of an alignment being needed after putting it all back together much less marking things like the ball joint mounting plate. Lot's of things wrong in this video.
Our videos are for guidance only. All routine replacements and values can be found directly in the technical documentation for your car or use the help of a car maintenance service. AUTODOC
@@autodocuk "guidance" lol. If you're going to put out half-baked information only to then say refer to your service manual, why even waste the time to make videos! I know.. why don't you buy the manuals, make a thorough checklist...then make the videos. Seems obvious.
This is normal for cars in coastal areas with high humidity get rust on components more quickly, or even worse in the Prairies/Midwest of North America with harsh winters and salted roads experience high levels of rust-through.
There was nothing wrong with the order of the steps in this tutorial. The only thing wrong was everything was tightened using an air wrench which is bad practice - especially with the wheel hub nut which requires 265Nm torque with the car sitting on the ground NOT in the air, and the tie rod end locknut which should always be replaced with a brand new locknut and only requires 30Nm torque (will be severely overtightened with an air wrench).
![How to change front wheel bearing on VOLKSWAGEN GOLF 3 (1H1) [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](/img/n.gif)
Thank you for this video. I live in Sweden and by a lot of spareparts from Autodoc ... its cheep/good stuff perfekt for me.
Thank you for your feedback! We are glad to hear that! Please, make sure to get in touch with us anytime you need help selecting the suitable part for your vehicle. Best Regards, Autodoc Team
@@autodocuk you guys ship to puerto rico?
As much as I love your videos. Which saved my life.. I should point out you guys should mention when an alignment is needed. Especially the tie rod end video.
Thank you for your comment!
We will definitely take this into account in our new videos.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team
Really good video explained very well
Terrific video! Thanks so much! I feel bad even mentioning something that can make it better. If you guys Gave those housings a quick cleanup. Either with a glass bead tape abrasive set up or on a wire brush. It would take 30 seconds and make everything look even more professional than already does but thanks so much
Thank you for sharing your opinion!
thanks for these videos! i like it!
Thank you for the feedback! It inspires us to make more videos! Follow our upcoming updates. Best regards, Autodoc.
Allways tighten bolts with right momentum. Using the impact wrench like that can damage the bolts/nuts.
You dont know if you used too much or to little torque on the bolts, and that car can now be dangerous to drive if the bolts got stretched and break off. Or in the other case if they should unscrew themself.
Thank you for your feedback! We will definitely add information for our viewers inour next videos.Best regards,Autodoc!
Agreed. All bolts in this job should be correctly torqued to original spec using a proper torque wrench. This is good practice and overtightening can make the bolts difficult to remove, stretch the metal, or crack. Air wrench/impact wrench is fine for removing but is bad practice for retightening, and should not be shown like this in a repair video. Shops do it all the time, but it's wrong.
Good job man
Thank you for the feedback! We are glad you find our video interesting and informative. Stay tuned. Best regards, Autodoc.
Is alignment necessary after doing this job?
Thank you for your comment! No, the alignment is not needed after doing this job. Best Regards, Autodoc Team
@@autodocuk thank you for the response and the informative video!
An alignment is typically needed after this job.
If you are certain the front wheels are properly aligned to begin with, and you mark the exact position of the strut/wheel hub assembly bolts before removing, reinsert and tighten in same marked position (95Nm torque as per VW repair manual, not air wrench) you may not need an alignment.
If your tires are showing any signs of being out of alignment, are unsure of alignment, or you do not mark the position of the bolts when removing, yes you absolutely need an alignment.
When you tighten the bearing nut, how much torgue is recommended?
The VW official repair manual specified torque for the wheel hub nut is 265Nm for Mk3 Golf/Jetta and Cabrio. Tighten as much as possible with socket wrench while car is lifted up, then tighten to final torque spec once the wheels are back on and the car is on the ground. Absolutely DO NOT attempt to tighten this nut to final torque spec with an air wrench while the car is lifted.
Que buena
Thank you for the feedback! We hope that our tutorial was helpful for you. Stay tuned and follow our latest updates. Best regards, Autodoc.
STEP 1 - Loosen the goddam axle nut while the car is still on the ground lest ye may never get it off! I seriously can't believe this video shows the nut being loosened after everything else is disconnected... WOW. And no mention of an alignment being needed after putting it all back together much less marking things like the ball joint mounting plate. Lot's of things wrong in this video.
Our videos are for guidance only. All routine replacements and values can be found directly in the technical documentation for your car or use the help of a car maintenance service.
AUTODOC
@@autodocuk "guidance" lol. If you're going to put out half-baked information only to then say refer to your service manual, why even waste the time to make videos! I know.. why don't you buy the manuals, make a thorough checklist...then make the videos. Seems obvious.
Man, that thing is rusty...did they drive it in the ocean? Lol
Thank you for the feedback! We hope that our tutorial was helpful for you. Stay tuned and follow our latest updates. Best regards, Autodoc.
Surface rust that is all
No, they have seen Latvian salty roads. There's about 80 percent salt on the roads at winter.
@@andrismiloss6769 Same here in Sweden lol, this is just how a 20 year old car looks underneath 90% of the time.
This is normal for cars in coastal areas with high humidity get rust on components more quickly, or even worse in the Prairies/Midwest of North America with harsh winters and salted roads experience high levels of rust-through.
why do you do these steps wrong ? first replace bearing then brake disc , brake pads tie rods .you must do so please . i say for your comfort .
Thank you for the feedback! Your opinion is very important for us. We will take it into consideration for our next tutorials. Best regards, Autodoc.
There was nothing wrong with the order of the steps in this tutorial.
The only thing wrong was everything was tightened using an air wrench which is bad practice - especially with the wheel hub nut which requires 265Nm torque with the car sitting on the ground NOT in the air, and the tie rod end locknut which should always be replaced with a brand new locknut and only requires 30Nm torque (will be severely overtightened with an air wrench).