OMG, now I know what that tool is for the torque wrench. I inherited some tools from my uncle who was a mechanic until the 1960's and I have never known til now what this one was used for.
Paul and Tina, Merry and Blessed Christmas! Your videos have helped me so much! Bought a 1930 Coupe 17 years ago from my father-in-law. It has been sitting in the garage, without being driven, for 15 years because it wasn't fun to drive (wobble of death, steering, overheating, etc.). I was thinking of selling it and found your channel about 6 months ago. With your help in identifying the problems and correcting them, I am loving the car again. Looking forward to getting the car wrapped up spring-early summer next year. Just joined MAFCA.
I like the "Teacher/Student" approach. Learning over Model T's shoulder (even when she is just listening) feels more like I'm in the garage with you than when you talk directly to the camera. I know it isn't always practical, but it is a nice touch. Tina, I'll try not to stand too close. Oh, and congratulations on the new office/title, Paul. Merry Christmas.
I prefer to talk to you one on one instead of making the viewer feel like the 3rd wheel. But this just felt like the best way to present this one. A lot of people lose strength when we age, and I didn't want to be so rude and talk about "when you're old and weak, you need a longer wrench". I have to be delicate sometimes, but with Tina I can say anything and the viewer can decide if it applies to them.
i had a head gasket blow in my A, it lost compression in 2 cylinders. i figured it would take me a few hours to replace. boy was i wrong. it took me 3 weeks to take off the head. i took old spark plugs and put a chain on them, pulled the car up in the air , jumped on the bumper , no go , i barrowed a Bill Stipe head puller, and i broke one of the parts that screw into the spark plug hole. after i got new parts for the head puller, i left pressure on it, and used heat and aromatic trans fluid and acetone and heat. finely it broke loose and i was able to get all the studs out and replace them. this tested my patience, i would just work it for about a 1/2 hr then walk away before i would brake something . Merry Christmas to you ans Tina!
Merry Christmas to both of you and Happy New Year. Blessings to both of you. Amost for got to mention. When I used to work in manufacturing my inspector said don’t forget to relax your tongue wrench when not in use. It will help hold your calibration more true. Have you heard anything about this? Bring back good memories when you mention stepping up on the torques values. Always enjoy all your videos and learning alot from you.
Each video is a free learning experience. thanks ! I am curious to learn why Paul chose the Model A to be his passion. Why not the Model B? Passion is emotion, so rational response is not expected. :-)
I have Asperger's Syndrome, a form of autism. No emotions. But I have been struggling with the idea of doing a video on how I became obsessed with them. But I just hate focusing on myself. This is about the cars and YOU. I hate doing anything about me.
Merry Christmas to you both,and a merry Christmas to Bob. If all else fails, get a bigger wrench .I'm looking forward to 2024 with the Shinns. Can't wait. Thank you both. .
Also to be aware of is dry vs lubed. A fastener with dry threads require more torque than one with a lubricant. Read the specific torque values in the 'red' book! And she does it with ease with her 'girlie' arms! Good stuff as always! Thanks, Paul!
Woohoo, comment #3! Thank you Paul for another great video! I just learned the small town I live by has a man that has a couple model A's. Now to go find him and pick his brain, haha. You are correct in starting from the middle. In all the other times I've put valve covers or whatnots on, you start in the middle. Makes it torque more evenly and also holds the gasket more flat so it doesn't move around accidentally. Also, I find it awesome there are so many head bolts! Nowadays manufacturers cheap out, on way higher compression engines, and put few head bolts in.
Thanx again for a great video! I had broken a water neck casting about 25 years ago torquing down a cylinder head on our 31 S/W sedan. Had to use a matchstick from an old school matchbook (seen any of these recently?) on the outside of both the water neck bolt's to get a proper torque without breaking the new casting.
I was just about to do this on mine 😅 I'm putting all new gaskets in it because it was rebuilt but never fired or had oil in it. It was locked up when I got it and it had a mouse nest in the water jacket. I do have a few of those books they have been helpful finding out what parts I'm missing. What I have is a 30 "kit car" 2 door it's in pieces, lol.
Very informative video paul and tina. Love seeing the different torqing tools you guys use on the model A head. Im surprised paul as a joke you say tighten the bolts until they start loosening again then a little bit more anddddd done. Another one of my favorite sayings is ahhh go until it sounds expensive.
@@ModelA your right. Some people take every word seriously even though we're kidding around. I could imagine hearing you said tighten the bolts until it loosened back up. Ugh. Some people. O well. Have a great Christmas you guys. Happy 2024.
Congratulations Mrs Shinn on the new torque wrench - very nice! I still reach for my old beam wrench at times (like when I've forgotten to change the batteries in my new wrench - doh!). Using an extension can cause a variance, but as you point how, if used properly it's minimal. More importantly, any variance from the extension is likely within the variance specifications of the wrench itself. Thank you as always - MERRY CHRISTMAS!!! ~ Chuck P.S. "exceeding the limits of my medication". Sir, I laughed out loud and completely understand.
Good morning Mr. Technical Director Paul, how are you this morning? Good to see you and Mrs. Technical Director Model T. 😁I do like the looks of Model T's torque wrench, lots of leverage for her and those of that have limited use of ROM. Also like the special wrench, looks a lot like the distributor wrench I use to have. Do you run the engine for a specific time or temp and then re-torque the head bolts again? We did my son's 5.2l diesel tractor this spring and his was 100 ft lbs., which we had to get a new wrench for doing that. Enjoyed watching you two and the great chemistry you and Model T have, I think her little giggle is so adorable. God bless you and her, have a great day! Psst, sorry for the long comment!☺
Yes. When I install a new gasket (for example), I torque it then start the motor with no water in it and monitor the temp. when it gets to 160 degrees, shut her down and let it cool. Re-torque the head and repeat. When the nuts don't move anymore, then add coolant.
As always, a very interesting video on head torqueing which is such an important job, it must be done right. Interesting that in America you refer to foot pounds and not pounds feet. Of course it's the same thing really but maybe foot pounds rolls off the tongue more easily. The metric equivalent that we use more often now in the UK is Newton Metres. Never Meters-Newton. Keep up with these great videos, I have learnt so much about the Ford Model A through watching them I have a Morris 10 2-seat convertible and it's interesting to compare the designs.
Funny, when the car was built they didn't have torque wrenches. I like to watch the videos of the guys putting the heads on at the factory. I also like the way they set the ring and pinion in the rear. Not sure if you've done a video about it, but how do YOU put in new head studs? I'm worn out on how many ways to do it. Happy Holiday.
I am putting together a Model A speedster. My question is front king pin related. I have watched a number of videos showing the procedure for this but noticed some people do it differently. What is the best place for the shims and dose the felt washer go above the cup or below the cup? 🤔 Really enjoy your videos, you and Tina make a GREAT team.
Happy New Year Paul. I take it you prefer the modern composite head gaskets vs. the copper... but with a composite do you still coat it with copper spray?
I trust the old beam torque wrench more than the click type. I think the click type is for a professional technician who has a tool truck dropping by every week. The beam type you can see if it's out of adjustment by looking at it.
When you re-torque without loosening 2 things happen: 1) you add a tiny amount of torque, which can & will add up top significantly higher torque than you intend and 2) the wrench only tells you that the torque is at or higher than what the wrench says. These can combine to cause future issues like broken bolts/studs. Some years ago there was a rash of accidents caused by "flying truck wheels" (one of them bounced up and came through a car windshield - the driver did not survive). It was determined that the cause was nuts that worked loose so they rightly made truck drivers responsible for ensuring that all nuts were torqued properly before venturing on public roads. Soon after it started happening again but this time caused by broken studs because the drivers had not been instructed to loosen the nuts 1/8 turn before tightening to torque. Loosening each nut 1.8-1/4 turn before immediately re-torquing it should not cause your head gasket to stop sealing but breaking a stud certainly could, especially if the remaining ones are torqued much higher than spec.
You surely know more about Model As than I do but a stud is a stud (or a bolt is a bolt) and a torque wrench is a torque wrench and every time you "check" the torque without loosening the nut slightly the wrench is lying to you. If you don't believe me try torquing a bolt to 40 Lb/ft and then checking it with the wrench set to 30. It will click at 30 every time even though the nut is actually at 40.
@@SidecarBob I understand that part (I'm an engineer with minor in physics). But I have seen way too many Model As develop head gasket leak overheating problems after people do that. Therefore, I don't suggest doing that.
@@ModelA I guess it is up to you how you do it but I still say the wrench is only telling you that it is torqued to what it indicates or more. BTW, Merry Christmas.
Question: If changing the water "neck", can I just remove those 2 nuts that hold it on, or to be safe, should I back others nearby off just a bit? I thoroughly enjoy and appreciate your videos and wish you both a very blessed and Merry Christmas!
My model a has no cab heater. Is it an easy item to add. Could I also add a water coolant style heat to the cab with a coolant thermostat in upper radiator hose?
Hi Paul this is Gary from Wisconsin I was watching one of your text sessions on how to torque your model ahead and I notice you're using an offset wrench for torquing behind the distributor net. Does that not offset the torque value when you use an offset?
Can you still get head gaskets for old Ford Model A engines? I'm almost 78 now and back in the 1960s in England I did a five-year apprenticeship as a motor mechanic. There were still lots of pre-war and early post-war cars running around in normal use, not as collector's items. I myself had various old cars. My Morris 8 Series E had a tendency to blow the head gasket. After two replacements I got the head skimmed and after that the engine was ok for many miles. I got so adept at changing the head gasket after three times! The oldest Ford I ever drove was a Ford Model Y that belonged to a friend. I don't rate modern cars very much. They often look the same and lack the character and individuality of old cars. But of course modern cars are safer.
The pros all use the very expensive Snap on torque wrenches. You can send torque wrenches out & have them calibrated, we do that in the Aviation industry. Especially if you drop it have it calibrated. Also remember to set it back to 0 torque when your done using it on the click type wrenches.
Good tips. Back when I owned an airplane and did my own maintenance, it was a lot different than it is now. I also used to run pump gas (that was before alcohol was used in auto fuels) and never thought twice. Times have changed!
Bolts on head 11/16 inches, Model-A is the good old American system. If you work on cars or machinery it's very common to find that you thought it was metric no it's SAE or Vice a versa.
There's a big problem with that adapter,,,Because it's C shaped ,When you put a considerable amount of torque on something,,,The top and bottom will flex,,Giving you a false torque ..
Useing a torque wrench not as easy as must people think .. you remarked about a extension they all have FLEX!! Sort ones V long ones good ones V shity one,, even when the lady tryed the manifolds i noticed her pulling back while trying to turn the wrench still she did a better job then you showing your FANCY WRENCH!! As ONLY ONCE while you were show the torqueing you had it right all the rest you torqued were out of spec ,,, as to prove my statements did you add or subtract the offset when you changed the position of the 2 wrench
@@ModelA Paul you did it right. That special tool to torque around the distributor is exactly like a aircraft cylinder head wrench. And it doesn't matter where you position the torque wrench its centered there is no offset. I use a aircraft cylinder wrench on my Model A. 4:18
OMG, now I know what that tool is for the torque wrench. I inherited some tools from my uncle who was a mechanic until the 1960's and I have never known til now what this one was used for.
Yes Nice gift to inherit! I still use the tools my grandfather left me. That way, a little bit of him still lives
Thankyou for explaining why overheating occurs when head not properly torqued. You helped me solve my problem
Excellent!
Paul and Tina, Merry and Blessed Christmas! Your videos have helped me so much! Bought a 1930 Coupe 17 years ago from my father-in-law. It has been sitting in the garage, without being driven, for 15 years because it wasn't fun to drive (wobble of death, steering, overheating, etc.). I was thinking of selling it and found your channel about 6 months ago. With your help in identifying the problems and correcting them, I am loving the car again. Looking forward to getting the car wrapped up spring-early summer next year. Just joined MAFCA.
Excellent, Brad! Merry CHRISTmas!!
I like the "Teacher/Student" approach. Learning over Model T's shoulder (even when she is just listening) feels more like I'm in the garage with you than when you talk directly to the camera. I know it isn't always practical, but it is a nice touch. Tina, I'll try not to stand too close. Oh, and congratulations on the new office/title, Paul.
Merry Christmas.
I prefer to talk to you one on one instead of making the viewer feel like the 3rd wheel. But this just felt like the best way to present this one. A lot of people lose strength when we age, and I didn't want to be so rude and talk about "when you're old and weak, you need a longer wrench". I have to be delicate sometimes, but with Tina I can say anything and the viewer can decide if it applies to them.
i had a head gasket blow in my A, it lost compression in 2 cylinders. i figured it would take me a few hours to replace. boy was i wrong. it took me 3 weeks to take off the head. i took old spark plugs and put a chain on them, pulled the car up in the air , jumped on the bumper , no go , i barrowed a Bill Stipe head puller, and i broke one of the parts that screw into the spark plug hole. after i got new parts for the head puller, i left pressure on it, and used heat and aromatic trans fluid and acetone and heat. finely it broke loose and i was able to get all the studs out and replace them. this tested my patience, i would just work it for about a 1/2 hr then walk away before i would brake something . Merry Christmas to you ans Tina!
Yikes! Have you seen the rope trick I used on the Vi e Grip Garage Model A? Merry Christmas!
i'm sure that would have broke something
Your videos are always the highlight of my weekends. I love learning about all the classic cars
Thank you! Merry Christmas
Merry Christmas to both of you and Happy New Year.
Blessings to both of you. Amost for got to mention. When I used to work in manufacturing my inspector said don’t forget to relax your tongue wrench when not in use. It will help hold your calibration more true. Have you heard anything about this? Bring back good memories when you mention stepping up on the torques values. Always enjoy all your videos and learning alot from you.
Great tip! Thanks Chris
Oh.. I need one of those fancy tools to torque the head. Thanks Paul and Tina for the great video!
Email me your address again. You'll get one for Christmas
@@ModelA What? OK, thanks!
@@ModelA Sent you an email.
Each video is a free learning experience. thanks ! I am curious to learn why Paul chose the Model A to be his passion. Why not the Model B? Passion is emotion, so rational response is not expected. :-)
I have Asperger's Syndrome, a form of autism. No emotions. But I have been struggling with the idea of doing a video on how I became obsessed with them. But I just hate focusing on myself. This is about the cars and YOU. I hate doing anything about me.
@@ModelA The world owes you a debt of gratitude for your free instructional videos.
Merry Christmas to you both,and a merry Christmas to Bob. If all else fails, get a bigger wrench .I'm looking forward to 2024 with the Shinns. Can't wait. Thank you both.
.
Merry CHRISTmas, Dean!
Also to be aware of is dry vs lubed. A fastener with dry threads require more torque than one with a lubricant.
Read the specific torque values in the 'red' book!
And she does it with ease with her 'girlie' arms!
Good stuff as always!
Thanks, Paul!
Always being Model A’s little helpers you two. Have a Merry Christmas!!!
Merry Christmas, Pat!
Don’t own a Model A; probably never will but watch because you do a fantastic job. Merry Christmas to you and yours.
Thank you. Merry Christmas!
Woohoo, comment #3! Thank you Paul for another great video! I just learned the small town I live by has a man that has a couple model A's. Now to go find him and pick his brain, haha. You are correct in starting from the middle. In all the other times I've put valve covers or whatnots on, you start in the middle. Makes it torque more evenly and also holds the gasket more flat so it doesn't move around accidentally. Also, I find it awesome there are so many head bolts! Nowadays manufacturers cheap out, on way higher compression engines, and put few head bolts in.
Congrats #3!! Yes, but they use weird metal alloys that supposedly allow that.
Thanx again for a great video! I had broken a water neck casting about 25 years ago torquing down a cylinder head on our 31 S/W sedan. Had to use a matchstick from an old school matchbook (seen any of these recently?) on the outside of both the water neck bolt's to get a proper torque without breaking the new casting.
That's how we all used to do it before we discovered we don't even need a gasket there. Now everyone just uses a bit of red silicone on the flange.
I was just about to do this on mine 😅 I'm putting all new gaskets in it because it was rebuilt but never fired or had oil in it. It was locked up when I got it and it had a mouse nest in the water jacket. I do have a few of those books they have been helpful finding out what parts I'm missing. What I have is a 30 "kit car" 2 door it's in pieces, lol.
Good luck my friend!
Another great lesson learned 😊 keep up the Amazing Work and Thanks for sharing and Teaching!!!!!
Thanks Brian!
Great job, guys, and Happy Holidays, Mike in Oregon.
Thanks Mike!
Merry Christmas to You all also , and a Happy New Year .
Merry CHRISTmas!
Merry Christmas to you both!
Same to you!
Hello, wünsche Euch ein frohes Weihnachtsfest und alles Gute für 2024 ( Germany)
Cheers from Italy, Paul!!😊
Merry Christmas to Italy!
@@ModelA To you too!! Wish you also a great 2024!😘
Just goes to show a family that torques Model A engines together, stays together!!
Yep! Merry CHRISTmas!!
A crow's foot works also on the nut near the distributor.Oh, congrats on your new position!
Thanks for the tip!
Very informative video paul and tina. Love seeing the different torqing tools you guys use on the model A head. Im surprised paul as a joke you say tighten the bolts until they start loosening again then a little bit more anddddd done. Another one of my favorite sayings is ahhh go until it sounds expensive.
Hahaaa! I have to be careful how I joke around. People don't have the same sense of humor as you and me.
@@ModelA your right. Some people take every word seriously even though we're kidding around. I could imagine hearing you said tighten the bolts until it loosened back up. Ugh. Some people. O well. Have a great Christmas you guys. Happy 2024.
Congratulations Mrs Shinn on the new torque wrench - very nice! I still reach for my old beam wrench at times (like when I've forgotten to change the batteries in my new wrench - doh!). Using an extension can cause a variance, but as you point how, if used properly it's minimal. More importantly, any variance from the extension is likely within the variance specifications of the wrench itself. Thank you as always - MERRY CHRISTMAS!!! ~ Chuck
P.S. "exceeding the limits of my medication". Sir, I laughed out loud and completely understand.
Hahaa! Yep! Merry Christmas
Good morning Mr. Technical Director Paul, how are you this morning? Good to see you and Mrs. Technical Director Model T. 😁I do like the looks of Model T's torque wrench, lots of leverage for her and those of that have limited use of ROM. Also like the special wrench, looks a lot like the distributor wrench I use to have. Do you run the engine for a specific time or temp and then re-torque the head bolts again? We did my son's 5.2l diesel tractor this spring and his was 100 ft lbs., which we had to get a new wrench for doing that. Enjoyed watching you two and the great chemistry you and Model T have, I think her little giggle is so adorable. God bless you and her, have a great day! Psst, sorry for the long comment!☺
Yes. When I install a new gasket (for example), I torque it then start the motor with no water in it and monitor the temp. when it gets to 160 degrees, shut her down and let it cool. Re-torque the head and repeat. When the nuts don't move anymore, then add coolant.
Another great video!! Thanks!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
As always, a very interesting video on head torqueing which is such an important job, it must be done right. Interesting that in America you refer to foot pounds and not pounds feet. Of course it's the same thing really but maybe foot pounds rolls off the tongue more easily. The metric equivalent that we use more often now in the UK is Newton Metres. Never Meters-Newton. Keep up with these great videos, I have learnt so much about the Ford Model A through watching them I have a Morris 10 2-seat convertible and it's interesting to compare the designs.
Thank you Pete!
Mo Paul you are model T's little helper
i wish you a merry Christmas Model T and your little helper Paul
Merry CHRISTmas, Matt!!
Referring to the gift wrench not yours. You both do great work for us! Please don’t stop!
Oh, of course! Thank you. Tina's wrench doesn't say where it was made.
Funny, when the car was built they didn't have torque wrenches. I like to watch the videos of the guys putting the heads on at the factory. I also like the way they set the ring and pinion in the rear. Not sure if you've done a video about it, but how do YOU put in new head studs? I'm worn out on how many ways to do it. Happy Holiday.
I just stick them in the block. Nothing special, just like they did at the fac-tree. Merry CHRISTmas!
I am putting together a Model A speedster. My question is front king pin related. I have watched a number of videos showing the procedure for this but noticed some people do it differently. What is the best place for the shims and dose the felt washer go above the cup or below the cup? 🤔
Really enjoy your videos, you and Tina make a GREAT team.
Hows about we give the torque wrench a rest and get to work on the green truck? I'm excited to watch you guys restore it. Merry Christmas
Hahaa! Soon!! The truck parts are going to get stripped to bare metal next month. We'll go from there.
Thanks for the Christmas wishes. May the joy of the Christ-child be with you both.
And also with you!
Happy New Year Paul. I take it you prefer the modern composite head gaskets vs. the copper... but with a composite do you still coat it with copper spray?
No way. I prefer the copper gasket! Yes, I spray it with copper coat too.
Great! Thanks!👍
I trust the old beam torque wrench more than the click type. I think the click type is for a professional technician who has a tool truck dropping by every week. The beam type you can see if it's out of adjustment by looking at it.
I agree with you!
When you re-torque without loosening 2 things happen: 1) you add a tiny amount of torque, which can & will add up top significantly higher torque than you intend and 2) the wrench only tells you that the torque is at or higher than what the wrench says. These can combine to cause future issues like broken bolts/studs.
Some years ago there was a rash of accidents caused by "flying truck wheels" (one of them bounced up and came through a car windshield - the driver did not survive). It was determined that the cause was nuts that worked loose so they rightly made truck drivers responsible for ensuring that all nuts were torqued properly before venturing on public roads.
Soon after it started happening again but this time caused by broken studs because the drivers had not been instructed to loosen the nuts 1/8 turn before tightening to torque.
Loosening each nut 1.8-1/4 turn before immediately re-torquing it should not cause your head gasket to stop sealing but breaking a stud certainly could, especially if the remaining ones are torqued much higher than spec.
When it comes to Model A head torque, I respectfully disagree.
You surely know more about Model As than I do but a stud is a stud (or a bolt is a bolt) and a torque wrench is a torque wrench and every time you "check" the torque without loosening the nut slightly the wrench is lying to you. If you don't believe me try torquing a bolt to 40 Lb/ft and then checking it with the wrench set to 30. It will click at 30 every time even though the nut is actually at 40.
@@SidecarBob I understand that part (I'm an engineer with minor in physics). But I have seen way too many Model As develop head gasket leak overheating problems after people do that. Therefore, I don't suggest doing that.
@@ModelA I guess it is up to you how you do it but I still say the wrench is only telling you that it is torqued to what it indicates or more. BTW, Merry Christmas.
Oh, and Thank you!! That certainly does apply in most cases.
Question: If changing the water "neck", can I just remove those 2 nuts that hold it on, or to be safe, should I back others nearby off just a bit? I thoroughly enjoy and appreciate your videos and wish you both a very blessed and Merry Christmas!
Yes. However, keep an eye out for leaks after you do. leave the rest of the head at torque. If you back off, you'll get leaks for sure
I have read that changing the length of the extension can change the torque you get.
Nope. Only if the extension isn't hardened or if it can twist and absorb some of the torque
My model a has no cab heater. Is it an easy item to add. Could I also add a water coolant style heat to the cab with a coolant thermostat in upper radiator hose?
It has been done. I haven't personally seen one, but seen plenty of pictures.
will you get the correct torque reading if you use a crow's foot socket for under the distributor?
No
Hi Paul this is Gary from Wisconsin I was watching one of your text sessions on how to torque your model ahead and I notice you're using an offset wrench for torquing behind the distributor net. Does that not offset the torque value when you use an offset?
I experimented with that tool, and it has barely any affect on torque measurement.
What are your views on torquing when engine is warm ( maybe 140 )
Better than not re-torquing at all
hey paul i’m in the model a club of louisiana and was wondering if i could pull up one day in the a
Drop me an email and let's talk about it. Merry Christmas!
Can you still get head gaskets for old Ford Model A engines? I'm almost 78 now and back in the 1960s in England I did a five-year apprenticeship as a motor mechanic. There were still lots of pre-war and early post-war cars running around in normal use, not as collector's items. I myself had various old cars. My Morris 8 Series E had a tendency to blow the head gasket. After two replacements I got the head skimmed and after that the engine was ok for many miles. I got so adept at changing the head gasket after three times! The oldest Ford I ever drove was a Ford Model Y that belonged to a friend. I don't rate modern cars very much. They often look the same and lack the character and individuality of old cars. But of course modern cars are safer.
Head gaskets are plentiful and fairly cheap.
@@ModelA Amazing!
The pros all use the very expensive Snap on torque wrenches. You can send torque wrenches out & have them calibrated, we do that in the Aviation industry. Especially if you drop it have it calibrated. Also remember to set it back to 0 torque when your done using it on the click type wrenches.
Good tips. Back when I owned an airplane and did my own maintenance, it was a lot different than it is now. I also used to run pump gas (that was before alcohol was used in auto fuels) and never thought twice. Times have changed!
@@ModelA Yes I remember autogas sold at some airports. What kind of plane did you have.
@@Nord3202 Cessna
@@ModelAMy first plane was a 1947 Cessna 140. Paid $4900 with a fresh annual.
@@Nord3202 Nice! Mine was a 150 with the starter burned out. Hand propped it until I could fix the starter. Young and dumb!!
I have a head bolt nut that is weeping slightly. Torquing do
Doesn’t help. Is it a problem if I just leave it as is?
Leaver er be!
Take nut off ,wrap three rounds string around stud, retorque done.
Take nut off, wrap two rounds string on stud, put nut back on and torque it 55 lbs.
Bolts on head 11/16 inches, Model-A is the good old American system.
If you work on cars or machinery it's very common to find that you thought it was metric no it's SAE or Vice a versa.
Yep! Merry Christmas
There's a big problem with that adapter,,,Because it's C shaped ,When you put a considerable amount of torque on something,,,The top and bottom will flex,,Giving you a false torque ..
I think it is rigid enough to be good enough to at least 55 ft. lbs.
Careful with those knock ff chinese torque wrenches; can't trust anything they send you!
This one isn't chinese
Useing a torque wrench not as easy as must people think .. you remarked about a extension they all have FLEX!! Sort ones V long ones good ones V shity one,, even when the lady tryed the manifolds i noticed her pulling back while trying to turn the wrench still she did a better job then you showing your FANCY WRENCH!! As ONLY ONCE while you were show the torqueing you had it right all the rest you torqued were out of spec ,,, as to prove my statements did you add or subtract the offset when you changed the position of the 2 wrench
You should make a TH-cam video and prove me wrong. I'll be happy to post the first comment.
@@ModelA Paul you did it right. That special tool to torque around the distributor is exactly like a aircraft cylinder head wrench. And it doesn't matter where you position the torque wrench its centered there is no offset. I use a aircraft cylinder wrench on my Model A. 4:18
Good morning Paul hope you and model T are doing well, love the channel.
Thank you!