In short: Toss the neck gasket, sequence from the center in several steps, toque to 55 and have a great day. Be sure to apply a little silicone to the neck surface ... no leaks, no busted neck..
Hi, my head got a hair crack right in the middle at stud no. 1, and I have been told that starting to torque in the middle, as the sequence shows, that hai crack occurs. It’s recomended to start the torque process from the front to the rear. Is this all right, as to avoid this cracking like most heads does? Your comment is appreciated! I like all your videos, very professional and good explanations. 👍🏼
Is the crack in the head or in the block? In the block, a crack leading from the #1 stud bore to either or both of the adjacent water jacket holes is extremely common. No one knows why it occurs. The most popular theory is that someone in the past torqued the #1 nut to 55 in a single pass, rather than performing a multi-pass sequence as discussed in the video. This crack is usually harmless, although I would make sure to coat the coarse threads of the #1 stud in RTV or another suitable sealant. A spiral sequence, beginning near the center, is widely accepted by engineers as the preferred sequence for any non-circular bolt pattern. This sequence minimizes preload scatter, which is the variation between the torque applied to the fastener and the actual clamp load the fastener places on the joint. If you tightened from front to back, you could get clamp loads at the front that were much higher or lower than expected, leading to additional cracks or leaks. Bottom line: I would not change your tightening sequence to avoid this crack, assuming it's in the block and not the head. The crack is harmless, and I'm not aware of any evidence that it is caused by the tightening sequence itself.
@@alexiskai Thank you very much for your well explained and taken time to do so! Is on the cylinder head. The hair line fine crack is at the no. 2 stud area between no.2 stud hole, towards the round water jacked round hole. That’s all, but very very fine. And that no.2 stud nor the hole where the stud passes through had not even traces of rust. So leakage was not present there. After removing the head, I must admit that the stud no. 8 that clamps also the flexible spring for the ignition switch cable I had this not torqued at all, and have started the engine some months back and noticed water running at this stud no. 8 nut. So, I stopped and cleaned it and sealed with HT Permatex sealant and torqued this nut, but of course it was too late as if water came out at the top under the nut, also was the case beneath at the packing. Upon starting the engine last Sunday I noticed rusted water, not much but proof at the muffler of water entered the combustion chamber of no.3 cylinder. And there I am at this moment. So, head removed, no water damage in cylinder, total clean up all new stud present and new nuts, cooper packing, so now studs removal towards assembly. Your torque sequence is correct and conform les Andrews head torque sequence. Thanks again for your prompt feed back !
You are a natural at explaining things. Well done and informative.
Thank you for making these detailed videos
Another well done video!
Thanks. My next one is going to be on the Nu-Rex Precision Timing Kit. Apparently not even Nu-Rex has done a video on it.
@@alexiskai Looking forward to it. I'm subscribed. Rick in Las Cruces NM
In short: Toss the neck gasket, sequence from the center in several steps, toque to 55 and have a great day. Be sure to apply a little silicone to the neck surface ... no leaks, no busted neck..
Hi, my head got a hair crack right in the middle at stud no. 1, and I have been told that starting to torque in the middle, as the sequence shows, that hai crack occurs. It’s recomended to start the torque process from the front to the rear. Is this all right, as to avoid this cracking like most heads does? Your comment is appreciated!
I like all your videos, very professional and good explanations. 👍🏼
Is the crack in the head or in the block? In the block, a crack leading from the #1 stud bore to either or both of the adjacent water jacket holes is extremely common. No one knows why it occurs. The most popular theory is that someone in the past torqued the #1 nut to 55 in a single pass, rather than performing a multi-pass sequence as discussed in the video. This crack is usually harmless, although I would make sure to coat the coarse threads of the #1 stud in RTV or another suitable sealant.
A spiral sequence, beginning near the center, is widely accepted by engineers as the preferred sequence for any non-circular bolt pattern. This sequence minimizes preload scatter, which is the variation between the torque applied to the fastener and the actual clamp load the fastener places on the joint. If you tightened from front to back, you could get clamp loads at the front that were much higher or lower than expected, leading to additional cracks or leaks.
Bottom line: I would not change your tightening sequence to avoid this crack, assuming it's in the block and not the head. The crack is harmless, and I'm not aware of any evidence that it is caused by the tightening sequence itself.
@@alexiskai Thank you very much for your well explained and taken time to do so!
Is on the cylinder head.
The hair line fine crack is at the no. 2 stud area between no.2 stud hole, towards the round water jacked round hole. That’s all, but very very fine.
And that no.2 stud nor the hole where the stud passes through had not even traces of rust. So leakage was not present there.
After removing the head, I must admit that the stud no. 8 that clamps also the flexible spring for the ignition switch cable I had this not torqued at all, and have started the engine some months back and noticed water running at this stud no. 8 nut. So, I stopped and cleaned it and sealed with HT Permatex sealant and torqued this nut, but of course it was too late as if water came out at the top under the nut, also was the case beneath at the packing. Upon starting the engine last Sunday I noticed rusted water, not much but proof at the muffler of water entered the combustion chamber of no.3 cylinder.
And there I am at this moment. So, head removed, no water damage in cylinder, total clean up all new stud present and new nuts, cooper packing, so now studs removal towards assembly.
Your torque sequence is correct and conform les Andrews head torque sequence. Thanks again for your prompt feed back !