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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 พ.ค. 2023
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Favorite PLA, Overture PLA: amzn.to/3nvcYuq
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#prusamk4 #prusa3d #3dprinting - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
For those over and under extruded layer's, I'd check the consistency of the diameter of the cheap filament you're using. The prusament filament is very consistent in its diameter; the label has a QR code you can scan to see the actual recorded diameter log for that roll's production.
For the ringing, confirm that the overture filament profile uses similar movement parms to either the generic or prusament filament profiles. Remember that the Overture profile was provided by a third party outside of Prusa Research, while the generic and prusament versions are Prusa tuned.
ghosting/ringing are most likely related to the print speed and resonance by its very nature may be affected by making it faster or slower depending on the frequency of oscillation. The crazy thing is that it could be as little as 0.5 - 1%.
Nice review - keep it up!
I dont care what you say about the machine, you are honest and opinions are always awesome!
Also I really adore the community:
They really try to help you with the problems, which is amazing!
I love you all for that!
Please stay all that way! You are making the maker-scene awesome!
🫶🫶🫶
With cardboard spools and the Prusa spool holder there is an increased friction that generates dust and, sometimes, an improper excessive rotation bacwards during printing.
Using, for example, a large spool adaptor, or other solutions, can improve the print quality.
The spool holder is the same used in Prusa i3 mk3 printers.
If that is the case then there are rings you can print to put on the inside surface of the spool hole to overcome that. I use a RepBox so I do not encounter that specific issue.
Bambu is also hit or miss on quality out of the box sometimes, and closed source is not a good thing. The fact that people exist who run MK3 farms with 20+ printers that make perfect parts every day tells me MK4 will eventually be the goat still for years to come in a production business. People also don't know that with great speed.. may come weaker parts too. So running max speed on this new gen of printers is not going to be optimal. My hope is they are tuning speeds and settings in testing to also maintain best strength.
Watch CNCkitchens video on speed vs strength to get an idea of how we're going to need to learn better tuning methods with high speeds
100% agree! To be honest, I’m perfectly fine with the speeds of the stock mk4 overall. I love my Bambu but they can’t handle overhangs like this mk4 can (Atleast on stock/ near stock settings)
Now, what do you think if those people would only need to run 5 bambus instead of 20 mk3s?
You can slow a fast printer but cant speed up a slow machine. Every one is running toy benches but not real prints on the mk4 with alpha firmware speeds. Nothing is stopping you from creating a "slow print" with fast accelerations on a P1P.
8000mm/s accelerations is a far cry from 20,000mm/s
@@scifi_shop If consumer begins to have such needs, I'd say they should begin to look completely different things. Prusa is quite nice as they use their own equipment to field test them too.
I have had really good luck with my Mk3+ Just crossed 4400 hours of running and have only changed the nozzle couple times. We have a Raised 3D and a FlashForge Creator 3 PRO at work and I really do not care for them. Have a pre order in for the XL. Prusament and Ziro Silk are the only filament I normally run. Most 3rd party filaments I just leave it on Prusament
im currently still using my 2016 anet a8 knockof so im going to buy it to get rid of the anet a8 fire hazard
Im all in on Prusa. Sold all my chinese printers now using Prusa Mini+ and Prusa MK4 and sucked it up and try to only buy and use Prusament (buy two rolls at once to save shipping costs) Prusas have just been solid for me, their documentation, CS, software, community, its just a nice ecosystem
@4:40 how is input shaping supposed to work on the y axis? the bed's resonance will change dynamically as it accumulates material.
Notes to the release say that the input shaping adapts to the added weight.
My guess is that they make a simple model to calculate resonance and change it depending on the amount of material, which can be easily measured.
When it becomes more available as in, in stock then i will get it. I have 2 mk3s+ and a mini i am looking into getting soon
I know this is 11 months ago, but having 2 printers (MK3S+) printers, I was wondering what folks were thinking about the MK4. I have 2 Ender 3 v2's and a X1C with AMS along with the MK3S+'s. I was very curious about this printer. If you are still using this printer, I would like to know what your thoughts are 11 months later. Thank you for your content.
I have MK3S. Yeah its dated design for sure, but I still love it so much. Have it setup on Octoprint and sometimes I forgot to even check if things are going well. Like after 4h might get that "oh sh*t I didn't check print start at all" but tbh it has failed just few times and generally for me selecting like pla settings for abs or something very crude like that. Couple glogged nozzles after hunders of print hours is most certainly not bad. Looked some Bambu reviews and it seems to make like really lackluster first layers by the looks of it. Anyway I don't have need for much more speed. I have Ender laying around if I happen to print some bigger assembly I want it faster. MMU3 might be interesting to try to add to my mk3, but I think it's still going to be use for multiple years. Also really disliked Bambu's glue release agent. I thought such high priced printer would've gotten around that, cause since getting Prusa I've never had to since use glue after getting correct plates.
Thanks for the video, How does the Prusa Mk4 compare against the P1P?
They really cater to different audiences. MK4 is open source with a great community, while the P Series are still new on the block with great quality and speed at a lower price. But Bambu lab is still a fairly new company that has had some growing pains and scalability issues. Overall, I still prefer Bambu Lab.
Hi, most printers are set up to use too much filament. Just check your extrusion and calibrate your esteps.
Hi, what are your thoughts about mk4 for abrasives? Is a hardened nozzle available?
The mk4 comes with a standard adapter for E3D v6 nozzles. Just put an E3D v6 hardened steel or nozzle X nozzle on the adapter and use that.
@@jonathanlin9772have you used it? I've read user reports about it oozing due to the different materials expanding
Ever occur to you guys to use the Prusament Filament Settings for other brand filaments??😝
I haven't tried that personally.
Can you share your changed settings for printing with Overture filament?
Check External Perimeters first
Then lower the extrusion multiplier. In my case, .95 to .96 worked well
Good video and thanks for the opinion but see the alpha input shaping firmware released today, print times cut by half or a third. So waiting for reviews and thoughts for that to be releases!
So excited to see that drop. I’m going to run some test prints and do a follow up!
Im newly getting into #D Printing, have not bought a machine yet but have driven myself insane researching every single machine, from wanting to get a Ender V3 and I have now moved up to Prusa MK4, the price point is steep for me, but videos like this really help me because the most important thing to me is years of reliability.
Thanks! Honestly I highly recommend buying an entry level machine and messing around with it before going all in on a high end machine. The ender 3 series machines are great, same as anything by elegoo
Inland PLA+ is the best I’ve tried. Just use the Generic PLA presets for all PLA and youre good.
Overture is ok but tends to be softer
This is good to know, I've used inland in the past since I'm near a Microcenter but quit using it. I'll have to give it another shot.
I have great luck with Atomic PLA made in USA in California they make there filament and have had great prints on my MK3
I think Atomic is made in Indiana, but I agree it's awesome!
is there gonna be an update with 150 print hours of input shaping?
I definitely plan on doing an update. I've been running some input shaping prints this week!
So in general, did you have failed prints? Quality is not as important as long as the prints work. I've owned 5 printers over the last 15 years and the biggest frustration is when you just can't even a bad print to work and you don't know why. My Ender 5+ has started to do that at some point haven't used it much since then. Since prices for online printing services have dropped drastically over the years, for me it's more decision between something I can set and it works vs ordering and it shows up a few days later. Online ordering has the clear advantage of SLS prints beeing perfect mechanically as well optically, so the decision isn't easy. The upside of FDM at home is of course that you can re-iterate more quickly, which is crucial for rapid prototyping.
I would recommend Atomic filaments or Printed Solid Jessie, print both with Prusament profiles.
I'll have to check these out!
@@Shayway forgot to mention both are manufactured in the US.
@@winslowjoy2629 love that!
I've got several spools of Atomic PETG and it's really nice stuff
I'm getting the kit once it's available and the shipping time is reasonable. Don't know how long that's going to take though.
Hopefully soon!
You can just order the kit.. and wait until it comes. Mine will be coming in July
@Shayway im buying my first ever 3d orinter my budget is under 1k for the printer and 500 for the extras...plz advise me
If you are wanting to tinker, Creality machines all day. If you just want to print and most things "just works", I'd look into an A1 or P1S
tinker yes im not going to be maken my own blueprints. but there is things ive seen ide like to make for the fact it be cheaper in the long run
@@drekkis12 this is the exact reason I got into it myself. Creality makes great machines, but they take a little bit of tweaking to make sure they reach their maximum potential. If you have the patience for it, definitely a good buy. Otherwise, Bambu all day
is there a type of wire to go with and stay away from
@@Shayway
ringing (shading) comes from fast speed at corners or walls. reduce print speed to get rid of these
Sorry if I sound rude but judging a printer by printing with 3rd-party filament without first calibrating extrusion is nonesense. How should Prusa guarantee that a 3rd-party filament is made to certain specs. You ALWAYS should dial-in new filament before using it and calibrating extrusion is always the very first step.
Jessie pla from printed solid is great! Printed solid is a licensed prusa distributor for their printers.
Good to know
It’s not the gun. It’s who’s holding it 💯
I just ordered one. If it'd that good I'll sell my MK3.
For me it would be worth the cost. Though i cannot afford it.
Do you like the MK4 more than the Bambu??
Tough to say without input shaping. Once that’s released, I’ll do a comparison and mention the pros and cons of both
Love the video BUT the MK4 seems expensive no multy material yet the mk3 all get supported, Been a prusa user for years but getting hacked off. Actively looking at other makes of printer
for that price I want sturdy metal parts .
PrintBed is another good choice for filament in the US.
I'll have to check it out!
The bad missalligned layer lines (thats z binding) :)
I actually ended up solving it by adjusting the flow
Overture. I hate overture. I got nothing but problems with them. In fact, I literally trashed three spools yesterday.
I find it kind of crazy they released an $1100 printer without all of the features.
Yeah prusa too overpriced I, prefer Bambu
Love the bambu printers! New one this week too!
@@Shayway
Quick question…
Are the log files sent for support still weirdly large and encrypted?
@@Traitorman.14.3 as far as I know yes
@@Shayway
Thank you for the answer.
And since we don’t know what data is leeched from the pc, and Bambu won’t tell us, I must assume it is data I don’t want to part with.
I prefer Prusa.
After watching this video I decided to cancel my order. It was incredibly easy to do. I should have my refund in two weeks.
Glad I was able to help out! There are so many good options out there. Interested in what you land on!
@@Shayway I'm trying to buy a K-Max to replace the K-1 I received last Wednesday. It was damaged in shipping, plus, the bed has a depression in the middle that looks like it was created by a bowling ball! I'm hoping the K-Max will be more in line with the X1C.
Prusament is overrated.
There are cheaper and better filaments out there.
That's coming from a person which tested over 200 kinds of materials on mk3s+
You need to know what you are doing when you design your material profile (and I find Prusa profiles workable, but horribly slow).
Bambu labs are garbage after time
How would we know the machines haven’t been out long enough.
wifi, ui is all garbage anything involves "the cloud" is a no go! useless features!
Pretty sure you can access it locally like Octoprint (no internet connection). Or maybe that is Prusa Link.
Correct, Prusa Link is local!
@@Shayway I was curious after I made the comment, so I set up Prusa Connect & Prusa Link with a Raspberry Pi 4 on my MK3S+ haha. Just USB from the Pi into the port on the machine with the “RPi port” setting turned OFF in the printer’s settings~
Might stick with it honestly. I’ve been using Octoprint with this machine for about a year, but this seems to have most of what I need. Not sure why they’ve got the “Camera” stuff locked down though, might be bc it’s still in Beta. There is no “Live” camera view - you’re limited to updates either every 10 seconds/30seconds/Every layer/Every 5 layers/Manual. Maybe they don’t expect a more powerful Raspi4 or similar to be used for this sort of application - their guide recommends a Pi Zero W (I think).
The “Printer Status” and “Filament Usage” stuff is pretty nice to have built-in. It’s also got a “Bed Mesh” display, so that’s cool I suppose lol. Obviously all do-able with Octoprint plugins, but I think I prefer Prusa’s layout/UI.
No absolutely not worth the cost. The MK4 is overpriced and unjustified for the same old tired design of the Prusa.
It's absolutely worth the cost. It's a workhorse. Proven design, great hardware support, extreeemely long term support, high reliability.
Those are its strengths. Not speed, not looking cool in pictures. If you want that, it's not for you, and it's fine. Plenty of other options nowadays, that will fit your needs.
It is fast though, not as fast as a coreXY but it's fast.
There is basically no better printer than the mk4 for the price. Very reliable, best print quality and now it's fast as well.
@@essentials1016I just ordered the MK4 kit. This is my first 3d printer, in fact I am new to 3d printing. Do you think the Prusa is a good choice?
@@arbjful yes absolutely. Very reliable, accurate and now with the help of input shapping fast too.
@@arbjful
I can only speak for the mk3s+.
It was my first printer. Got it after almost buying a CR10S and then hearing all the troubleshooting other engineering students had to do to get the CR10 to print reliably. I love building but hate troubleshooting, so I opted to spend more and go with the Prusa kit. As long as you try to be as precise as possible (especially with leveling and squaring the frame) it runs perfect. The kit is pretty cool since, if you like building, no one will care about the perfection of your printer more than you, and you also learn how everything works.
I’ve owned the mk3s+ for just about a year now. It just works with PLA and PETG in my experience. Just dial in the first layer for your build plates and you won’t have to touch it again unless you buy another build plate (can store first layer for quite a few build plates) change nozzles or disassemble.
Just ordered ASA in several colors along with a Whambam hotbox. Gonna start tinkering with the more resilient materials.
Already decided my 2nd much larger printer will be a Voron and the Prusa will allow me to print most of the parts aside from any super high temp PC I may use. Don’t want to risk messing up the magnets on the Prusa bed by heating it at or above 120C (with firmware manipulation) in order to get the best PC print quality.
you have it wrong Bambu is more hobby and prusa is more professional, Bambu is cheap Chinese made parts and every machine shipped prints differently because of cheap parts and when it does break down you going to be stuck because bambu is all about selling printer and not so much on customer service.