Gordon Robinson, I have been driving truck for the last 10 year and I knew nothing about what I learned from you. Your videos help me to become a better drive. I can't express words how much I appreciate you.
Thank You for this extremely helpful video sir. I was stuck on a military installation and no mechanic was able to get to me. I knew I had enough technical knowhow in performing the job myself when I blew a seal but your video helped totally clear up a lot of my second guesswork. I was 100 times more confident in performing this task myself and it turned out great and safe. I decided to go ahead an replace both bearings while I was at it since they had seen better days. It's people like you who give power back to the every day trucker. Because of your selfless service our independent way of life will live on. God bless and many thanks for your time and effort you put into making this video.
Gordon, Thank you for your videos! Yours is the second channel I have subscribed to in the life of TH-cam. I very much appreciate you showing regular folks without all the fancy gear how to get the job done. Let me share with you a little on this procedure I have learned over the years, I am always trying to learn a better or easier way to do things myself. When pulling the seal there are two methods way better than using a crow bar against the hub. #1. With most hubs you can simply pull the outer bearing, put the outer nut back on the spindle and give the hub a couple good sharp tugs and the seal will uninstall itself. #2. Reattach the hub to the drum with a couple lug nuts and use the hub wall to pry out the seal, so your not prying against the other side of the seal, much easier and the whole seal will simply pop out with little effort. And for all those folks complaining about the way you tighten the nut down, one good whack with a screwdriver after hand tight equals about 200 lbs. on my torque wrench, and much quicker. Best wishes
Awesome. I'm finishing diesel school and the things I didnt get to do you seem to have the perfect video on how to do it. I like how you dont talk too much, but you explain yourself clearly...seems like guys your age are the only ones who can perfect that giving how to videos. I enjoy everything you put out, thank you for your time on all of it.
I have done some auto repair over the years. I love your attention to detail and taking time to clean important parts. A job done right is the best way to go.
Mr. Robertson that was an excellent video you've posted. This coming next month on the 25th will be my two year anniversary that my truck caught on fire. This same work that you're doing on this truck was what I needed but I wasn't quite aware that the hub had ran out of oil which then caused the fire. I have conducted my pre/post trips everything time and I have mainly looked for oil leaks around the areas that oil my be spotted but I've never seen any. Prior to the fire the truck has been sitting for quite some time before I bought it from someone. I have ran the truck for two months after I bought it and on the week of the 25th of June I had planned to take the truck for a PM but the truck never maid it to the weekend to get the PM done. What would have been a $350.00 job based on a PM service ended up cost me close to a $10,000.00 job. I basically had rebuilt to whole rear axle, all my air bags, tires, rims, etc. I finally was able to get my truck back together 2 two weeks ago. This is actually my first time owning my own truck and boy what a way to learn from something like this. Your video gave me soooooo much knowledge of changing the seals on the axles and servicing the rear end is sooooo IMPORTANT that procrastinating on something like NOT servicing these exles will cost you thousands of dollars or costing you to lose your truck which in my case paying thousands of dollars. Thank you sooooo much for posting your video it's very INFORMATIVE!!!!!
If you're driving for a living, especially if you own your own you better start learning what everything on your truck smells like, looks like and sounds like. 90 weight has a very distinctive odor, especially when you warm it up
An easier way to get that seal off is to put a nut back on the end of the axel and just knock the hub against it as you take it off the axel and the seal will pop right off.
Very informative for the hands on and the do it yourself guys...thanks very much for sharing your knowledge, just did my brakes today and notice the hub seal was bad..was trying to figure out an easy way to change the seal...your video was extremely helpful...keep up the great work
I have just found your channel. Excellent video! I am happy to know that I am not the only person to put seals in with board and hammer. Also you are working outside just like I have too.
Thank You Sir. I was a pro car mechanic in the '80s and worked inside, but my truck can't go in my shop. I'm not a pro mechanic anymore but I still do all of my repairs here at home. I'm rebuilding my truck engine right now, subscribe and follow the progress.
I like to lay my hub down in the break drum Backwards keeps it from moving while you take the seal out and install the new one. I enjoy watching your videos.
Easiest way I've ever pulled the seal is to pull the outer bearing, then reinstall the nut. Slide the hub outward with force and the nut traps the inner bearing with the seal on the axle housing while separating the seal from the hub. That technique works with many different style hub assemblies that aren't press-fit.
Thanks mate. Great to see a tutorial done on the ground with simple tools. All the others are in a workshop with axle nut sockets and shit. Turns out I'm doing it right, just need to give it more anger to free the hub off the axle.
A tip on getting the seal out...place the hub back in the drum (bolt hole side up) and it will provide a good support for prying the seal out, you can even put a lug nut on it to help hold it
Thank you had a wheel speed sensor go out on my truck and because of watching your videos i was able to perform the work myself. This is what old time trucking is all about keep up sharing the videos man they are helpful.
Thanks for the comment, but if your in school for this kind of work, some of my videos are not going to agree with everything that is taught in school, my videos are more for the guy who is trying to get the job done at home and doesn't have all the special tools. Good luck in your career. Thanks for watching.
Good job it's good to know how to change the brakes and seals with simple tools, I might have to change out my own one of these days never know but I enjoy learning you made it very clear to understand
Very good. Thank you. On the brake job video the drum was replaced as well. Why? Wasn’t sure as there was no explanation given and I assume it was worn are warped but clarification would be nice
I don't agree with the hammer and chisel ! but I went to Max S Hayes Vocational school three years, with a state Vocational certificate 35 years in the business and 25 years driving em and wrenching fabrication, welding etc etc etc take from an old school pro !!! well done ! you didn't do bad at all !!! if I was still the shop foreman at Callison trucking, I'd hire ya in a heartbeat Sir !!! I've seen many a good small company go broke cause of overregulation etc ! ALL THE BEST TO YOU AND YOU'RE FAMILY SIR !!!
Thanks for the compliment Sir. A lot of people have a problem with the hammer and chisel for tightening the locknut, but you know, I did 3 of them that way on this truck over the last 15 years and all of them came off that way and I put them back the same way, also one on my dump truck. I will buy a socket some day and re do the video, but not because I don't trust it to hold, it will hold until it needs to come apart for some other reason, I'll just do it for those politically correct people who really don't understand the mechanics of the whole thing and for those who are going to mechanic school and need to learn the proper way to do that job. Also I didn't add oil to the hub, I knew the bearings were wet and the diff. was full and as soon as it started rolling down the road it would fill with oil. I caught a lot of flack over that too.
I was given an old tool for doing those large hub nuts. From the look of it I think it's ex military. It is a tee handle with two v shaped jaws that wind in and out towards each other to suit the size of the nut. It can reach in about seven inches. It looks like a load of torque would bend it but for reaching into hubs to do the big,low torque nuts it's perfect. There is a half inch square on back,probably for a torque wrench. I have never seen one on eBay or in any of the tool catalogues . Bit of a shame as it gets used by me on pretty much all the big hubs I do that use a nut to preload and secure the bearings. One observer once told me a similar tool was used to fit the sealing gland nuts on torsion bar suspension tanks and that would explain the military link. Well worth keeping an eye out for at the flea markets and swap meets.
Thanks for the video! I'm much less intimidated to change the hub seal on our truck. I like to use 50/50 Diesel and ATF for cleaning. Less vapor inhalation, almost no accidental ignition risk. Solvent and detergent together, easier on seals, has a good shelf life.
Thank you for the video sir. I learned a lot and enjoyed it. Pay no attention to those who think everything has to be done by a book. work-arounds exist for a very good reason!
Reminds me of when i was yung doing breakes on my dads bobtails i was a auto mecanic then going into trucking soon. Repairs have skyrocketed and technitions suck. Cant do it right the first time so thy do it twice.
Awesome thanks. I don’t know if it would help but I place a block or tool on the opposite side under the pry bar to pop seals. Mine aren’t as large as yours put they pop right out.
pleasing the hub on the brake drum brings more stability to pull the seal, also to pull the seal out you could use a self tap screw a 2x4 and a carpenter hammer
Nice install I like the Chicago rawhide seals my self a lot nice then the Stemco seals where you have to put the slip sleeve over the axle. Anyhow a little tip I do is to put a bit of oil in the hub between both bearings before putting the outer bearing just a little insurance for me that the bearings get oil also don’t forget to top up the diff oil
Gordon Robertson. Thank you for the video. I have changed my seal, but when I put everything back up, it didn't seem to want to go all the way in, so it didn't have room for the last 4 inch nut to spin.
you don't have the hub seated, you MUST have it seated, tighten the 1st nut tight about 50 ft. lbs. and then loosen it, snug it up again and back it off 1/4 turn, put on your lock washer and tighten the 2nd nut tight, the book says 200 ft. lbs. make sure it's at least 50 or 100 ft. lbs.
Gordon Robertson, thank you for the reply. I have already tighten it and got the job done. I just hope I didn't do it too much because it was spinning pretty hard. But I appreciate the information and all the help. Take care 👍🏼
great video helped me a lot keep up the good work thanks, I need to replace the rear main seal of my 12.7 detroit on a 2003 freightliner century do you have a video of something like that?
Thanks for the comment. No I don't have a video on the rear main seal, but the bulk of that job is getting the clutch down, and then the flywheel off, the flywheel looks heavy but it isn't (maybe 60 to 80 lbs.) maybe you can find a clutch video, I don't have one yet, do you have a truck transmission jack? I have done a clutch on that truck before, you can msg. me for help if you decide to do that job.
I hope you live in a warm area, unless you have a heated shop. Where I live is to cold to do that at the end of December (St. Louis area) if you're in the U.S. you'll know where that is. with good tools and experience, you'll need about 10 - 14 hours and the clutch parts cost about $800.00
No, sorry, I never had to do that on mine, not all of them are the same, the truck that I adjusted the clutch on has a different fan clutch than mine and both are same year and motor.
hi sir Gordon i love youre videos allways good info how and what Tim Taylor sure only works on trucks with only pro tools we use what we have and are good for the job
NP sir i been working on trucks and Excavator me self for 17 years I Nerver use pro tools they are costly And you can get the job done anyways Rock on Cordon
If you flip the hub and use a piece of softwood or brass, you can punch the old bearing and seal out pretty easy.toss a cloth down for the bearing to land on, it'll be fine.
When removing the old seal put your pry bar behind it then get a wrench and turn the pry bar it will bring it right out and you don't have to chase the hub around. when you are prying it out like that you did you get one side loose and when you turn the hub and pry again you push the other side back down.
Just out of curiosity, about how many times have you replaced inner seals on axles? And, how many times have these wheels fallen off due to bearing failure? Sorry... It just amazes me how you got to be Public Enemy no 1 because some techi went to school and thinks he knows everything. Any real-world person knows tapered roller bearings have an amazing tolerance to adjustment. And while certain methods are more perfect, lots of methods are adequate. Obviously one would use the best tools available... a wooden seal driver could work without problems, eh? Mr Robertson you have an amazing array of skills and experience. I'd trust you before techi any day. But then again, I'm just a graduate Mechanical Engineer... what do I know?
Thank you Sir, I didn't quite know how to respond to the 1st part of your comment so I just didn't. The answer is 3 seals on this truck on 3 different positions in 15 years, no bearing or seal failures on any of them afterwards. I did go to school for this work almost 40 years ago and never worked on big trucks before I bought this one, I did do some repairs on the company trucks I drove before I bought mine, just minor things, electrical or adjustments etc. I did work on cars and medium duty trucks full time for about 10 years and part time at home for many years after that while I was welding at a pipe shop and or machine shop at a foundry before going into trucking. I just do things my way at home and always get the job done or I don't upload it unless I'm sure I will finish it. I have a few small engine videos waiting for parts to arrive so I can finish them and upload, I don't want to put them up when I don't know when they will be done. I don't like wasting my time watching someone's video titled how to do something and they failed to successfully complete the job, I won't do that on purpose. Thanks again for the sub and the comments. Welcome aboard.
Ya exactly but i post a video how to change a piggy back brake chamber a faster safe way and get the 3rd degree because i use needle nose vise grips with 2 pieces of rubber hose over vice grips to protect the air hose while pinching off the airline working on the side of the interstate .....ya exactly seal doesn't come out beat the hell out of the hub and bearing eventually it'll come out....damaged hub and all lol
I mean since your a mechanical engineer, then you should know all about proper torque specs and the safety/reasoning behind them, this guy got the job done, but how many hrs did it take him compared to a professional tech, also what happens when those bearings have a failure and that wheel end comes off, potentially killing someone because of a few improper procedures that could of been avoided by going to a proper tech
@@factionlesswrx3256 Sure. Of course. And, none of his repairs have failed in any way... as his response stated. In other words, a shop must follow the proper tech & spex because of liability problems AND a regular experienced person can simply do what works. Again, tapered roller bearings seem to have amazing tolerance for installation technique. Me, ? I'd use the book approach... because I have no experience for doing any different. But, I'm not going to go against "what works" just "because," eh. "The best is the enemy of 'good enough'".
Not saying any of his failed, but I have seen ones that have failed, some of which that were done the same or similar ways in this video, I have also seen bearings that exploded inside causing the whole wheel end assembly to fall off while driving, because the bearings weren't 100% the proper ones from factory, and from not proper installation, again this works but when a failure happens you wanna risk someone else's life? Maybe an entire family or 2?
Sometimes after we remove the outside bearing if you'll put just the keeper nut back on three or four turns ... you could just give the hub a light pull and the nut will catch on the rear bearing and pop the seal out with the momentum of the pull. Also, some older axel heads have little cone-shaped washers behind the very first nuts and lock washer that you took off. The cones are impossible to take out unless you know the technique... Take a small hammer and tap over the outside edge right beside bolt and the little cone will just pop out, releasing the head and thus the axel. Years ago I paid a guy to do a brake liner and seal change. He charged me but didn't change the seals but said he had. Upon inspection of the work, I noticed that the axels looked like they had never been pulled. Having done the work myself before I knew the trick with the cone part. He came out to my truck and I asked him to remove the axel I already had the nuts and lock washers off he didn't know how to get those "stinking cones" out. That proved to me that he hadn't done the seals. I put a "stop payment" on the check for the whole job. I paid him for brake parts. He was pissed but he wasn't big enough to do anything about it. I don't do business with liars.
There should be a new video of that same job to be recorded tomorrow unless plans are changed. A friend with the same kind of truck went for an oil change today and called me asking if I was working tomorrow, I said no, he told me the oil change man showed him the leaking axle seal and my friend asked me if I could do that for him tomorrow, so that is the plan. New video on that soon.
Mr. Robertson, is there a way of checking the hub oil level without removing the wheel and brake drum? Or is it the same oil that goes in the differentials
Can't think of any advice that's not covered in the comments other than newer axles may have different style of locknuts but you still need to back off your first locknut a quarter turn after preload
You may want to look at my changing brakes on big truck video if you don't know how to loosen the brake shoes and tighten them back again when finished In order to remove the brake drum
As I was watching this hard working man I was thinking about the number of seals and bearings I have replaced in hubs. I have had monstrous loads in my utility trailer and nothing I have ever installed has failed. I just tighten them down very snug to make sure they are seated, back all the way off, snug them and back off just to the first holder tab, or if they are aligned upon snugging (they never are) back off to the next nut flat. It's hard for an honest man to make an honest living.
I'm home alone getting started on a video taking off the carburetors on my '88 Goldwing 1500 to clean them and debating weather or not to repaint it while it's in my shop. Thanks for watching and Happy new year to you.
Hola Myrna; If you have a seal leaking, you will be able to see oil getting on the brakes and can smell it as well. If you don't live too far from me you can use the email and contact me and come by my shop. gordonrdiy@yahoo.com
Gordon I need to do this on my 02 Ram 2500. The process looks the same for most vehicles. Should I bother getting the seal installer and seal pullers or just use a block of wood, some crow bars and a drift. No one seems to use the special tools but I'd prefer to do it once every 150k miles.
Hi John. For me personally, I would use the wood or anything flat and sturdy that looks like it would get the seal in evenly watching closely as it's getting started so if it starts going in crooked you can quickly start hitting the high side to balance it before it's damaged. As for getting it out, you can do what I did or use 3 or four self tapping screws around the face of the seal and grip the screws with a vice grip or a pliers and lift it up an inch or 2 and hit the hub with a hammer to make like a slide hammer, or better yet go to Harbor Freight and get a slide hammer if you don't have one and use that. Let me know how it turns out.
I don't want to buy any 1 time use special tools, you can always use a slide hammer for something, but a seal installer? use the wood or go to Auto Zone or one of those places and borrow a tool if you don't want to do it like I do.
Gordon, thanks for the tips. I'm a little nervous to do the job but looking forward to the challenge at the same time. I picked up the socket for the hub at the auto parts store today. For under 20 bucks it seemed like a good idea. I was looking at a slide hammer.... :-)
Nothing to be nervous about, it's easy, if you have problems, it's no big deal to take the hub to a shop and watch them change the seal. Check the bearing and the race for any pitting, or grinding sounds before you put it back together and don't forget to back off that locknut about 1/4 turn after seating it down tight and make sure the oil is within 1/2" of the hole, better if it's full. If you need to change the bearing and race you can call me and I'll tell you how to do that, I don't have a video on that yet.
There's a plug on the differential just like on a pickup or a rear wheel drive car if I remember right it's on the right front side and takes a 1/2" drive ratchet or breaker bar, just take out the plug on level ground, put your finger in the hole if you can get any oil on your finger, you have enough, if you can't call your dealer to find out what kind of oil it calls for and buy a few quarts with the pointed top squeeze bottle and return what you don't need. fill the diff. until it starts to come out of the hole, if it's an inch low, not to worry, it's good. Thanks for the comment ( I don't know how much it holds, maybe 3 gallons if empty) if you jack up the side to work on high enough, you wont lose any oil to speak of (bottom of tire 3 or 4 inches off the ground)
Vladimir Mineev Just before you install the outer bearing, fill the low area with gear oil and check axle oil level when you're done. I also coat the bearings with grease to protect them when you first start moving.
Raise the axle housing with the jack and using a long flex funnel..put a few ounces over the equivalent that poured out into the axle housing tube ... Check the fluid level at the differential housing before road testing.
After you remove the outer bearing reinstall the inner nut about half way down the threads and use the hub as a slide hammer. It will knock the seal and rear bearing out with ease.
best way ive found to getting seals out is using a long prybar that is square. put the pry bar between seal and bearing and twist the prybar with a big adjustable wrench.
dependind on the hub itll pop right out. if not chisel. collaps the seal in. wedge the chisel between seal and hub to move it inward slighly and punch inwards after that. clean up an chips the chisel made on hub.
The air bottle jack can be found at Harbor Freight, northerntool.com or Amazon.com or any automotive tool supply. The straight bottle jack can be found at Home Depot, Lowes, and at the previous mentioned stores. your best prices will be at Harbor Freight and Amazon, if you don't have a store near you, both of them will ship it to you. here's a link to my video on jacking up a big truck,th-cam.com/video/UPQI7Yula58/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching.
Interesting and I am guilty myself. How did the world get along b4 they invented brake cleaner? what's in it anyways? Is brand x they same as brand y? God help us if this stuff was patented by snapon or mac.
50 ft lbs pre load on 1st lock nut then back it off 1/4 turn or a little less and then the lock ring and the 2nd lock nut, torque the 2nd lock nut to 200 and fold the lock ring tabs.
You're supposed to put a little oil in the hub before you put the axle back in, but if the bearing is wet with oil and the differential is full or real close to full as soon as you drive away the differential will pump oil to the hub.
If you turn the hub with the seal facing down on the drum you can take a hammer and bar and tap the inside race of inside bearing and pop the seal out...and you need to put oil in the hub before you stick it on there so you don’t burn the bearings up...
Put that hub over, set it on top of the drum and use a punch to drive the seal out from the inside only touch the bearing on the cone and not the cage. Bearing and seal will pop out a whole lot easier than it did on this video
First must be clean good... Second must be checked the hub and bearings adjustment.. Third all bearings must be put in under grease.. And fitted that..
If have casett bearing then tightening is different also bearing is not coming out in parts. But on casett bearing just tighten so hard what can. I hammer it tight with 3000 Nm air gun. Not some other locking there.
Gordon Robinson, I have been driving truck for the last 10 year and I knew nothing about what I learned from you. Your videos help me to become a better drive. I can't express words how much I appreciate you.
Thank you sir.
Thank You for this extremely helpful video sir. I was stuck on a military installation and no mechanic was able to get to me. I knew I had enough technical knowhow in performing the job myself when I blew a seal but your video helped totally clear up a lot of my second guesswork. I was 100 times more confident in performing this task myself and it turned out great and safe. I decided to go ahead an replace both bearings while I was at it since they had seen better days. It's people like you who give power back to the every day trucker. Because of your selfless service our independent way of life will live on. God bless and many thanks for your time and effort you put into making this video.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Gordon Robertson DIY tnks sr all your videos is very helpful tnks again.
Finally a good (very good) video about how to replace a seal, thank you sir 🫡
Gordon,
Thank you for your videos! Yours is the second channel I have subscribed to in the life of TH-cam. I very much appreciate you showing regular folks without all the fancy gear how to get the job done. Let me share with you a little on this procedure I have learned over the years, I am always trying to learn a better or easier way to do things myself. When pulling the seal there are two methods way better than using a crow bar against the hub. #1. With most hubs you can simply pull the outer bearing, put the outer nut back on the spindle and give the hub a couple good sharp tugs and the seal will uninstall itself. #2. Reattach the hub to the drum with a couple lug nuts and use the hub wall to pry out the seal, so your not prying against the other side of the seal, much easier and the whole seal will simply pop out with little effort. And for all those folks complaining about the way you tighten the nut down, one good whack with a screwdriver after hand tight equals about 200 lbs. on my torque wrench, and much quicker. Best wishes
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Awesome. I'm finishing diesel school and the things I didnt get to do you seem to have the perfect video on how to do it. I like how you dont talk too much, but you explain yourself clearly...seems like guys your age are the only ones who can perfect that giving how to videos. I enjoy everything you put out, thank you for your time on all of it.
Thanks for watching Joey.
This video refresh my mind when I used to do this job 30 years ago
I have done some auto repair over the years. I love your attention to detail and taking time to clean important parts. A job done right is the best way to go.
Thank you Sir.
Attention to detail? He is a butcher
Mr. Robertson that was an excellent video you've posted. This coming next month on the 25th will be my two year anniversary that my truck caught on fire. This same work that you're doing on this truck was what I needed but I wasn't quite aware that the hub had ran out of oil which then caused the fire. I have conducted my pre/post trips everything time and I have mainly looked for oil leaks around the areas that oil my be spotted but I've never seen any. Prior to the fire the truck has been sitting for quite some time before I bought it from someone. I have ran the truck for two months after I bought it and on the week of the 25th of June I had planned to take the truck for a PM but the truck never maid it to the weekend to get the PM done. What would have been a $350.00 job based on a PM service ended up cost me close to a $10,000.00 job. I basically had rebuilt to whole rear axle, all my air bags, tires, rims, etc. I finally was able to get my truck back together 2 two weeks ago. This is actually my first time owning my own truck and boy what a way to learn from something like this. Your video gave me soooooo much knowledge of changing the seals on the axles and servicing the rear end is sooooo IMPORTANT that procrastinating on something like NOT servicing these exles will cost you thousands of dollars or costing you to lose your truck which in my case paying thousands of dollars. Thank you sooooo much for posting your video it's very INFORMATIVE!!!!!
Thank you sir for sharing
Wonder the last time the gear lube was changed?
If you're driving for a living, especially if you own your own you better start learning what everything on your truck smells like, looks like and sounds like. 90 weight has a very distinctive odor, especially when you warm it up
I have found that cursing helps at every stage in this process.
Thanks for watching.
Cursing seems to help when doing alot of things. Lol
An easier way to get that seal off is to put a nut back on the end of the axel and just knock the hub against it as you take it off the axel and the seal will pop right off.
Sometimes you need to
Very informative for the hands on and the do it yourself guys...thanks very much for sharing your knowledge, just did my brakes today and notice the hub seal was bad..was trying to figure out an
easy way to change the seal...your video was extremely helpful...keep up the great work
Thank you sir for the comment, glad to hear it helped.
I have just found your channel. Excellent video! I am happy to know that I am not the only person to put seals in with board and hammer. Also you are working outside just like I have too.
Thank You Sir. I was a pro car mechanic in the '80s and worked inside, but my truck can't go in my shop. I'm not a pro mechanic anymore but I still do all of my repairs here at home. I'm rebuilding my truck engine right now, subscribe and follow the progress.
I like to lay my hub down in the break drum Backwards keeps it from moving while you take the seal out and install the new one. I enjoy watching your videos.
You r very kind / nice man god bless you/family
Easiest way I've ever pulled the seal is to pull the outer bearing, then reinstall the nut. Slide the hub outward with force and the nut traps the inner bearing with the seal on the axle housing while separating the seal from the hub. That technique works with many different style hub assemblies that aren't press-fit.
Thats the way i did it i did trucking for 20 years done with that now
Your voice reminds me of my late grandfathers who was also a trucker. Good job on the video and stay safe out there!
Better get up to speed about torque on inner nut to preload bearing. Great video up to that point
I have use a plain claw hammer for these seals,it works great. Just a lil advise. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks mate. Great to see a tutorial done on the ground with simple tools. All the others are in a workshop with axle nut sockets and shit.
Turns out I'm doing it right, just need to give it more anger to free the hub off the axle.
Good luck. Thanks for watching.
old fashion mechanic job. no laptop no pc no software all down to the hammer and wrenches. loving this videos.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
D L a
A tip on getting the seal out...place the hub back in the drum (bolt hole side up) and it will provide a good support for prying the seal out, you can even put a lug nut on it to help hold it
You explain everything like my Dad does. Those little things you mention like putting things in order to reassemble easier.
Great instruction , The manual and sockets are always available and it is good to see it done the old school way with a bit of improvisation .
Thanks for watching.
i always tape the threads on the spindle up so as not to damage the new seal. just a little tip. only takes 10 seconds to do.
Place rags on the ground, put the brake drum over the rags,invert the hub and tap the bearing out to remove the seal 👍
Exactly the way I was taught.
Drop that hub upside down into a wheel and thread a nut on there. Then pry that seal out easy
Brian Stark drum works too
Thank you had a wheel speed sensor go out on my truck and because of watching your videos i was able to perform the work myself. This is what old time trucking is all about keep up sharing the videos man they are helpful.
Great video, currently in school to be a truck tech and watching your videos gives me an idea before doing labs, Keep on going man!
Thanks for the comment, but if your in school for this kind of work, some of my videos are not going to agree with everything that is taught in school, my videos are more for the guy who is trying to get the job done at home and doesn't have all the special tools. Good luck in your career. Thanks for watching.
Good job it's good to know how to change the brakes and seals with simple tools, I might have to change out my own one of these days never know but I enjoy learning you made it very clear to understand
Thank you Sir.
Very good. Thank you. On the brake job video the drum was replaced as well. Why? Wasn’t sure as there was no explanation given and I assume it was worn are warped but clarification would be nice
great job Gordon
Great video watching from Cupar Scotland
Thank You for subscribing all the way from the USA.
Good job explaining how to preload the bearing nut
Thanks for watching.
I don't agree with the hammer and chisel !
but I went to Max S Hayes Vocational school three years, with a state Vocational certificate 35 years in the business and 25 years driving em and wrenching fabrication, welding etc etc etc take from an old school pro !!!
well done ! you didn't do bad at all !!! if I was still the shop foreman at Callison trucking, I'd hire ya in a heartbeat Sir !!!
I've seen many a good small company go broke cause of overregulation etc !
ALL THE BEST TO YOU AND YOU'RE FAMILY SIR !!!
Thanks for the compliment Sir. A lot of people have a problem with the hammer and chisel for tightening the locknut, but you know, I did 3 of them that way on this truck over the last 15 years and all of them came off that way and I put them back the same way, also one on my dump truck. I will buy a socket some day and re do the video, but not because I don't trust it to hold, it will hold until it needs to come apart for some other reason, I'll just do it for those politically correct people who really don't understand the mechanics of the whole thing and for those who are going to mechanic school and need to learn the proper way to do that job. Also I didn't add oil to the hub, I knew the bearings were wet and the diff. was full and as soon as it started rolling down the road it would fill with oil. I caught a lot of flack over that too.
I was given an old tool for doing those large hub nuts. From the look of it I think it's ex military. It is a tee handle with two v shaped jaws that wind in and out towards each other to suit the size of the nut. It can reach in about seven inches. It looks like a load of torque would bend it but for reaching into hubs to do the big,low torque nuts it's perfect. There is a half inch square on back,probably for a torque wrench. I have never seen one on eBay or in any of the tool catalogues . Bit of a shame as it gets used by me on pretty much all the big hubs I do that use a nut to preload and secure the bearings.
One observer once told me a similar tool was used to fit the sealing gland nuts on torsion bar suspension tanks and that would explain the military link. Well worth keeping an eye out for at the flea markets and swap meets.
good job buddy, thanks .. !!!
Thank you Sir.
Thank u sir.
Great job
By far Gordon has the best videos I seen in TH-cam in years .. thank you sir!
Thanks for watching.
@@57bagre respect,,,thanks for sharing ua knowledge....
I have that same seal puller, works great
I always wanted to say Hello, and thank you for the educational information you provide, shout out from Fort myers, Fl Robert, 👋
Thanks for the shout out from south Florida Roberto and I do miss Florida from my "OTR" days.
Thanks for the video! I'm much less intimidated to change the hub seal on our truck. I like to use 50/50 Diesel and ATF for cleaning. Less vapor inhalation, almost no accidental ignition risk. Solvent and detergent together, easier on seals, has a good shelf life.
Thanks for watching Phillip.
Thank you for the video sir. I learned a lot and enjoyed it. Pay no attention to those who think everything has to be done by a book. work-arounds exist for a very good reason!
Thanks Arlyn.
Reminds me of when i was yung doing breakes on my dads bobtails i was a auto mecanic then going into trucking soon. Repairs have skyrocketed and technitions suck. Cant do it right the first time so thy do it twice.
Torqued to spec. 😃 Salt of the earth bro. Thanks for the vid.
Awesome thanks. I don’t know if it would help but I place a block or tool on the opposite side under the pry bar to pop seals. Mine aren’t as large as yours put they pop right out.
pleasing the hub on the brake drum brings more stability to pull the seal, also to pull the seal out you could use a self tap screw a 2x4 and a carpenter hammer
Very helpful, thank you sir!
Nice install I like the Chicago rawhide seals my self a lot nice then the Stemco seals where you have to put the slip sleeve over the axle. Anyhow a little tip I do is to put a bit of oil in the hub between both bearings before putting the outer bearing just a little insurance for me that the bearings get oil also don’t forget to top up the diff oil
Yep! "thanks Mate" really enjoyed your video, like the way you do it the old tried and easy way; will you make it look easy anyway, so thanks.
Thanks for watching Marshall
Extremely helpful video
Thanks for watching.
I really liked your video. Thanks.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Gordon Robertson. Thank you for the video.
I have changed my seal, but when I put everything back up, it didn't seem to want to go all the way in, so it didn't have room for the last 4 inch nut to spin.
you don't have the hub seated, you MUST have it seated, tighten the 1st nut tight about 50 ft. lbs. and then loosen it, snug it up again and back it off 1/4 turn, put on your lock washer and tighten the 2nd nut tight, the book says 200 ft. lbs. make sure it's at least 50 or 100 ft. lbs.
Gordon Robertson, thank you for the reply. I have already tighten it and got the job done. I just hope I didn't do it too much because it was spinning pretty hard. But I appreciate the information and all the help. Take care 👍🏼
Thank you for your video , I like it and that sound great how your work.
Thanks for watching.
Great work buddy 👍👍👍
Next put the hub back in the drum when your pulling the seal
great video helped me a lot keep up the good work thanks, I need to replace the rear main seal of my 12.7 detroit on a 2003 freightliner century do you have a video of something like that?
Thanks for the comment. No I don't have a video on the rear main seal, but the bulk of that job is getting the clutch down, and then the flywheel off, the flywheel looks heavy but it isn't (maybe 60 to 80 lbs.) maybe you can find a clutch video, I don't have one yet, do you have a truck transmission jack? I have done a clutch on that truck before, you can msg. me for help if you decide to do that job.
Thanks I do have some equipment not the best but just to get the job done. Thanks for your videos they really help a lot keep up the great job.
I think I'm going to start on the rear main seal like on the ends of December.
I hope you live in a warm area, unless you have a heated shop. Where I live is to cold to do that at the end of December (St. Louis area) if you're in the U.S. you'll know where that is. with good tools and experience, you'll need about 10 - 14 hours and the clutch parts cost about $800.00
@@57bagre Where did you find your manual to rebuild your engine?
Thanks for your video s is big help for me thanks again mister.
Hey Gordon Happy Holiday's, do you have a video on replacing a fan clutch on a series 60?
No, sorry, I never had to do that on mine, not all of them are the same, the truck that I adjusted the clutch on has a different fan clutch than mine and both are same year and motor.
I also vasoline where the seal will sit. Goes to together well.
hi sir Gordon i love youre videos allways good info how and what Tim Taylor sure only works on trucks with only pro tools we use what we have and are good for the job
Thank you sir and thanks for subbing.
NP sir i been working on trucks and Excavator me self for 17 years I Nerver use pro tools they are costly And you can get the job done anyways
Rock on Cordon
If you flip the hub and use a piece of softwood or brass, you can punch the old bearing and seal out pretty easy.toss a cloth down for the bearing to land on, it'll be fine.
I just subed. great video of some old school diy o/o work
Thanks for subbing.
Nice job tanks how much illl cost to replace shoes and how much for seals too I like know tanks for your information keep going vídeos tanks
Brakes cost about $45 and seal cost about $35 per wheel for parts. los frenos son $45 y la sella sale unos $35 solo partes no mas.
Great work! Would you know what is the tourq for the nut that holds steering wheel hub of 2005 Columbia. I need to change it
I don't know on your truck, mine is about 300 ft lbs. Better call your dealer and ask the service dept.
Best video ever thank!
Thanks for watching.
Great job
Thanks for watching.
Inner lock nut is meant to pull hub and seal farther on the spindle is it not?
When removing the old seal put your pry bar behind it then get a wrench and turn the pry bar it will bring it right out and you don't have to chase the hub around. when you are prying it out like that you did you get one side loose and when you turn the hub and pry again you push the other side back down.
Just out of curiosity, about how many times have you replaced inner seals on axles? And, how many times have these wheels fallen off due to bearing failure?
Sorry... It just amazes me how you got to be Public Enemy no 1 because some techi went to school and thinks he knows everything. Any real-world person knows tapered roller bearings have an amazing tolerance to adjustment. And while certain methods are more perfect, lots of methods are adequate. Obviously one would use the best tools available... a wooden seal driver could work without problems, eh?
Mr Robertson you have an amazing array of skills and experience. I'd trust you before techi any day. But then again, I'm just a graduate Mechanical Engineer... what do I know?
Thank you Sir, I didn't quite know how to respond to the 1st part of your comment so I just didn't. The answer is 3 seals on this truck on 3 different positions in 15 years, no bearing or seal failures on any of them afterwards. I did go to school for this work almost 40 years ago and never worked on big trucks before I bought this one, I did do some repairs on the company trucks I drove before I bought mine, just minor things, electrical or adjustments etc. I did work on cars and medium duty trucks full time for about 10 years and part time at home for many years after that while I was welding at a pipe shop and or machine shop at a foundry before going into trucking. I just do things my way at home and always get the job done or I don't upload it unless I'm sure I will finish it. I have a few small engine videos waiting for parts to arrive so I can finish them and upload, I don't want to put them up when I don't know when they will be done. I don't like wasting my time watching someone's video titled how to do something and they failed to successfully complete the job, I won't do that on purpose. Thanks again for the sub and the comments. Welcome aboard.
Ya exactly but i post a video how to change a piggy back brake chamber a faster safe way and get the 3rd degree because i use needle nose vise grips with 2 pieces of rubber hose over vice grips to protect the air hose while pinching off the airline working on the side of the interstate .....ya exactly seal doesn't come out beat the hell out of the hub and bearing eventually it'll come out....damaged hub and all lol
I mean since your a mechanical engineer, then you should know all about proper torque specs and the safety/reasoning behind them, this guy got the job done, but how many hrs did it take him compared to a professional tech, also what happens when those bearings have a failure and that wheel end comes off, potentially killing someone because of a few improper procedures that could of been avoided by going to a proper tech
@@factionlesswrx3256 Sure. Of course. And, none of his repairs have failed in any way... as his response stated. In other words, a shop must follow the proper tech & spex because of liability problems AND a regular experienced person can simply do what works. Again, tapered roller bearings seem to have amazing tolerance for installation technique. Me, ? I'd use the book approach... because I have no experience for doing any different. But, I'm not going to go against "what works" just "because," eh. "The best is the enemy of 'good enough'".
Not saying any of his failed, but I have seen ones that have failed, some of which that were done the same or similar ways in this video, I have also seen bearings that exploded inside causing the whole wheel end assembly to fall off while driving, because the bearings weren't 100% the proper ones from factory, and from not proper installation, again this works but when a failure happens you wanna risk someone else's life? Maybe an entire family or 2?
Sometimes after we remove the outside bearing if you'll put just the keeper nut back on three or four turns ... you could just give the hub a light pull and the nut will catch on the rear bearing and pop the seal out with the momentum of the pull. Also, some older axel heads have little cone-shaped washers behind the very first nuts and lock washer that you took off. The cones are impossible to take out unless you know the technique... Take a small hammer and tap over the outside edge right beside bolt and the little cone will just pop out, releasing the head and thus the axel.
Years ago I paid a guy to do a brake liner and seal change. He charged me but didn't change the seals but said he had. Upon inspection of the work, I noticed that the axels looked like they had never been pulled. Having done the work myself before I knew the trick with the cone part. He came out to my truck and I asked him to remove the axel I already had the nuts and lock washers off he didn't know how to get those "stinking cones" out. That proved to me that he hadn't done the seals. I put a "stop payment" on the check for the whole job. I paid him for brake parts. He was pissed but he wasn't big enough to do anything about it. I don't do business with liars.
There should be a new video of that same job to be recorded tomorrow unless plans are changed. A friend with the same kind of truck went for an oil change today and called me asking if I was working tomorrow, I said no, he told me the oil change man showed him the leaking axle seal and my friend asked me if I could do that for him tomorrow, so that is the plan. New video on that soon.
Mr. Robertson, is there a way of checking the hub oil level without removing the wheel and brake drum? Or is it the same oil that goes in the differentials
It's the same oil as the differential.
Gordon Robertson thank you sir
great video Sir..Thinking of attempting this on a Greatdane trailer. Would be my first time ,any advice ??
Can't think of any advice that's not covered in the comments other than newer axles may have different style of locknuts but you still need to back off your first locknut a quarter turn after preload
You may want to look at my changing brakes on big truck video if you don't know how to loosen the brake shoes and tighten them back again when finished In order to remove the brake drum
As I was watching this hard working man I was thinking about the number of seals and bearings I have replaced in hubs. I have had monstrous loads in my utility trailer and nothing I have ever installed has failed. I just tighten them down very snug to make sure they are seated, back all the way off, snug them and back off just to the first holder tab, or if they are aligned upon snugging (they never are) back off to the next nut flat.
It's hard for an honest man to make an honest living.
Thanks for watching.
It's New Years 2018/2019 and I'm sitting here alone on the couch watching a guy replace axle seals on youtube....haha what a life.........ugh! haha
I'm home alone getting started on a video taking off the carburetors on my '88 Goldwing 1500 to clean them and debating weather or not to repaint it while it's in my shop. Thanks for watching and Happy new year to you.
how do you see leak ? on back of tire on drum
Hola Mr Gordon. how do you know you seals are bad? im having problem with my semi and dont know its the seal or the bearings .
Hola Myrna; If you have a seal leaking, you will be able to see oil getting on the brakes and can smell it as well. If you don't live too far from me you can use the email and contact me and come by my shop. gordonrdiy@yahoo.com
Chulada de trabajo. good Job
Thank you for this video. The hub seal on my IHC 4700 tossed oil everywhere and I hadn't the slightest clue how to fix it.
Seems like a very easy job.
Mine is going now on my IHC
is that a black snake rattle gun?
Old school hell yeah..... and I don’t miss doing that at all
thanks for watching.
Gordon I need to do this on my 02 Ram 2500. The process looks the same for most vehicles. Should I bother getting the seal installer and seal pullers or just use a block of wood, some crow bars and a drift. No one seems to use the special tools but I'd prefer to do it once every 150k miles.
Hi John. For me personally, I would use the wood or anything flat and sturdy that looks like it would get the seal in evenly watching closely as it's getting started so if it starts going in crooked you can quickly start hitting the high side to balance it before it's damaged. As for getting it out, you can do what I did or use 3 or four self tapping screws around the face of the seal and grip the screws with a vice grip or a pliers and lift it up an inch or 2 and hit the hub with a hammer to make like a slide hammer, or better yet go to Harbor Freight and get a slide hammer if you don't have one and use that. Let me know how it turns out.
I don't want to buy any 1 time use special tools, you can always use a slide hammer for something, but a seal installer? use the wood or go to Auto Zone or one of those places and borrow a tool if you don't want to do it like I do.
Gordon, thanks for the tips. I'm a little nervous to do the job but looking forward to the challenge at the same time. I picked up the socket for the hub at the auto parts store today. For under 20 bucks it seemed like a good idea. I was looking at a slide hammer.... :-)
Nothing to be nervous about, it's easy, if you have problems, it's no big deal to take the hub to a shop and watch them change the seal. Check the bearing and the race for any pitting, or grinding sounds before you put it back together and don't forget to back off that locknut about 1/4 turn after seating it down tight and make sure the oil is within 1/2" of the hole, better if it's full. If you need to change the bearing and race you can call me and I'll tell you how to do that, I don't have a video on that yet.
Thanks Gordon. I've been watching videos and reading the manual and all that's left is to get into it. Thanks for the great tips.
If you put the hub in the drum when you take the seal out it will help hold it
Nice video. Two questions. To put oil back to axle, is it from hub or middle of axles? And how many gallons of oil is in your axle? Thank you.
There's a plug on the differential just like on a pickup or a rear wheel drive car if I remember right it's on the right front side and takes a 1/2" drive ratchet or breaker bar, just take out the plug on level ground, put your finger in the hole if you can get any oil on your finger, you have enough, if you can't call your dealer to find out what kind of oil it calls for and buy a few quarts with the pointed top squeeze bottle and return what you don't need. fill the diff. until it starts to come out of the hole, if it's an inch low, not to worry, it's good. Thanks for the comment ( I don't know how much it holds, maybe 3 gallons if empty) if you jack up the side to work on high enough, you wont lose any oil to speak of (bottom of tire 3 or 4 inches off the ground)
Thank you.
Vladimir Mineev
Just before you install the outer bearing, fill the low area with gear oil and check axle oil level when you're done. I also coat the bearings with grease to protect them when you first start moving.
But how do you replace the oil/lube that initially ran out upon disassembly?
Raise the axle housing with the jack and using a long flex funnel..put a few ounces over the equivalent that poured out into the axle housing tube ... Check the fluid level at the differential housing before road testing.
Why no grease in the bearings or hub?
After you remove the outer bearing reinstall the inner nut about half way down the threads and use the hub as a slide hammer.
It will knock the seal and rear bearing out with ease.
spin the hub to set it/ did you clean the bearing and repack it ?
You are correct, spin the hub is the proper way but you don’t pack bearings that sit in gear oil
best way ive found to getting seals out is using a long prybar that is square. put the pry bar between seal and bearing and twist the prybar with a big adjustable wrench.
dependind on the hub itll pop right out. if not chisel. collaps the seal in. wedge the chisel between seal and hub to move it inward slighly and punch inwards after that. clean up an chips the chisel made on hub.
good idea
Slide hammer.
crowfoot prybar two seconds it's out works every time
What kind of bottle jack you're using and where to get one?
The air bottle jack can be found at Harbor Freight, northerntool.com or Amazon.com or any automotive tool supply. The straight bottle jack can be found at Home Depot, Lowes, and at the previous mentioned stores. your best prices will be at Harbor Freight and Amazon, if you don't have a store near you, both of them will ship it to you. here's a link to my video on jacking up a big truck,th-cam.com/video/UPQI7Yula58/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching.
Interesting and I am guilty myself. How did the world get along b4 they invented brake cleaner? what's in it anyways? Is brand x they same as brand y? God help us if this stuff was patented by snapon or mac.
Yep, it's good stuff. Thanks for watching.
Master mind truck mechanic...
Thanks for watching.
How much torque should be put on the axle flange nuts?
50 ft lbs pre load on 1st lock nut then back it off 1/4 turn or a little less and then the lock ring and the 2nd lock nut, torque the 2nd lock nut to 200 and fold the lock ring tabs.
Great vid!! Thanks for the upload.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
how do you put the oil on it??
You're supposed to put a little oil in the hub before you put the axle back in, but if the bearing is wet with oil and the differential is full or real close to full as soon as you drive away the differential will pump oil to the hub.
This right here children is some old School shit you don't see work being done like this anymore everybody's got the special tool
If you turn the hub with the seal facing down on the drum you can take a hammer and bar and tap the inside race of inside bearing and pop the seal out...and you need to put oil in the hub before you stick it on there so you don’t burn the bearings up...
Put that hub over, set it on top of the drum and use a punch to drive the seal out from the inside only touch the bearing on the cone and not the cage. Bearing and seal will pop out a whole lot easier than it did on this video
Thank you, very informative and great step by step explanations.
Thank you Sir.
put the hub in the drum,studs thru the drum holes, when prying out the seal, use the weight of the drum to hold it down, lots easier
First must be clean good...
Second must be checked the hub and bearings adjustment..
Third all bearings must be put in under grease..
And fitted that..
Wrong! Your a hack
What?
If have casett bearing then tightening is different also bearing is not coming out in parts. But on casett bearing just tighten so hard what can. I hammer it tight with 3000 Nm air gun. Not some other locking there.
Thanks sir but sir what destroys wheel seal
Rust on the axle housing and just being old.