Wow, i thought mine was bad on the inner arches when i peeled back a previous "repair" (new arch badly tacked over the old rusty arch) this one is much worse. Top job guys.
I've just found the same problem on my 1995 mitsubishi! Some utter prat just slapped a panel over the front offside chassis floor/sill just behind the wheel arch. Not only is it the worst bit of welding I have ever seen in my life (drips, lumps of weld metal left inside the frame, all sorts lol) but they also welded the 3 drain holes in that area shut thus creating a sealed frame section that was never supposed to be sealed, then covered it all with rubberized crap to hide the bodge. 4 years ago when I was doing my first restoration it all still felt solid, and I did an exterior rust strip (using a wire brush and phosphoric acid) then a waxoyl underseal, not realizing the inner wheel arch skin was slowly rotting from the inside! Fast forward to now and there's four or five 3 inch rips in the wheel arch skin around the dodgy weld and what was the original floorpan skin has just turned to magnetic crumbs which I scraped out earlier... (Was originally a thumbnail sized hole which I was planning to sort out but during a recent suspension rebuild the full extent to the problem made itself known...) The saving grace is that the mainframes underneath are still 100% solid and the rot hasn't spread to them at all yet. Already got fluidfilm on order to scope in there and protect them. All I can say is.... My mechanic's mate is definitely gonna have some fun with his welder in a couple days haha! And I'm definitely paying the price for some idiot's bodge 5+ years ago before I even owned the car... But she's too rare to scrap, and I've put way too much work into her to give up now. Still, it's only a fraction (10% if that) of the damage shown in this video so that gives me hope! My engine is bulletproof (4g93 DOHC) and everything else is 100% mechanically sound (with spares on hand) so I think the old girl is gonna defy death one more time! :)
if you mean the tack welding that ends up being one long continuous weld, thats because a continuous seam weld would put to much heat in the metal and warp it or burn through :) 👍🏻
I see where you have little square holes that are cut out, but I don't see you replacing them. Maybe there're not necessary, but a simple way to make them is to get a broach that cuts square holes. You drill a hole to the required size, go to the press that I see you have, insert the broach into the hold and press. Voila! A square hole!
Not everything is worth showing a repair on :) we do repair them but we don’t show the repair as we have covered a repair like that before and unless it’s complicated viewers don’t want to see it again :)
If you watch our other videos we sometimes refer to the bits we don't always show. Like prepping the inner sides of panels etc Also this whole car will have cavity Waxoil in addition to that :) 👍
![“อาร์ต พศุตม์” เกือบเอี่ยวทุกคดีดัง เอ๊ะไว้ก่อน ไม่มีอะไรได้มาง่ายๆ | แฉ 16 ต.ค. 67 [2/3] | GMM25](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0Gx-0-kUBv8/mqdefault.jpg)
Usual magic tin work and a new person in the workshop. Just wonderful work thanks as always.
Thank you Eddie :) new person is my brother he’s worked with us for a number of years now :)
Wow, i thought mine was bad on the inner arches when i peeled back a previous "repair" (new arch badly tacked over the old rusty arch) this one is much worse. Top job guys.
I've just found the same problem on my 1995 mitsubishi! Some utter prat just slapped a panel over the front offside chassis floor/sill just behind the wheel arch. Not only is it the worst bit of welding I have ever seen in my life (drips, lumps of weld metal left inside the frame, all sorts lol) but they also welded the 3 drain holes in that area shut thus creating a sealed frame section that was never supposed to be sealed, then covered it all with rubberized crap to hide the bodge.
4 years ago when I was doing my first restoration it all still felt solid, and I did an exterior rust strip (using a wire brush and phosphoric acid) then a waxoyl underseal, not realizing the inner wheel arch skin was slowly rotting from the inside! Fast forward to now and there's four or five 3 inch rips in the wheel arch skin around the dodgy weld and what was the original floorpan skin has just turned to magnetic crumbs which I scraped out earlier...
(Was originally a thumbnail sized hole which I was planning to sort out but during a recent suspension rebuild the full extent to the problem made itself known...)
The saving grace is that the mainframes underneath are still 100% solid and the rot hasn't spread to them at all yet. Already got fluidfilm on order to scope in there and protect them.
All I can say is.... My mechanic's mate is definitely gonna have some fun with his welder in a couple days haha! And I'm definitely paying the price for some idiot's bodge 5+ years ago before I even owned the car... But she's too rare to scrap, and I've put way too much work into her to give up now.
Still, it's only a fraction (10% if that) of the damage shown in this video so that gives me hope! My engine is bulletproof (4g93 DOHC) and everything else is 100% mechanically sound (with spares on hand) so I think the old girl is gonna defy death one more time! :)
metal-working poetry!
Thank you bazer 👍🏻
Thanks guys, another great video, loving the content, keep it coming I look forward to them poping into my play list 👍
Thank you for your support Alan and glad your enjoying the vids :)
Another top video guys and top work as Always 👍🏻👌🏻
Thank you once again :)
Looking good guys ! I've got a feeling my Mazda 3 will require some metal work once I've sorted out it's diesel engine
Hi Khyron, just let us know when your ready and we can give you a vague price :)
did you weld the inner wheel arches panel to the wing , or how does the inner wheel arch connect to the rear wing if its connected at all ?
Hello again, can I ask, why don`t you use cardboard to make a pattern? Thank you once again for a very informative and entertaining vid. Paul.
We have sometimes made cardboard templates. :) 👍
How come you kinda tac welded all along the edges of the medal instead of continuously welding the seams? Not a welder, just curious
if you mean the tack welding that ends up being one long continuous weld, thats because a continuous seam weld would put to much heat in the metal and warp it or burn through :) 👍🏻
I see where you have little square holes that are cut out, but I don't see you replacing them. Maybe there're not necessary, but a simple way to make them is to get a broach that cuts square holes. You drill a hole to the required size, go to the press that I see you have, insert the broach into the hold and press. Voila! A square hole!
Not everything is worth showing a repair on :) we do repair them but we don’t show the repair as we have covered a repair like that before and unless it’s complicated viewers don’t want to see it again :)
how much would a job like this cost? curious because my sierra's in a similar state and dreading taking it to a garage 😕😂
The inner wheel arch would probably be around £250 at todays prices
@@yorkshirecarrestoration Thanks for letting me know!
Is the new metal prepped on the top side ? 🤔
If you watch our other videos we sometimes refer to the bits we don't always show. Like prepping the inner sides of panels etc
Also this whole car will have cavity Waxoil in addition to that :) 👍
@@yorkshirecarrestoration gotcha 😉👍
every time you mark the metal different tools. 🤪
We do :) just to show that anything can be used :)
Huh? Thats not my car.🤣