HOW TO DESIGN A SOLAR ARRAY (For a DIY Camper Electrical System)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 พ.ย. 2022
- This video will give you an "over-the-shoulder" look at how to design a solar array for a DIY camper electrical system.
➤Charge Controller Calculator: www.explorist.life/solar-char...
➤EXPLORIST.life Solar Charging Kits: shop.explorist.life/product-c...
➤Shop the EXPLORIST.life Store: shop.explorist.life
➤Shop Battle Born Batteries: battlebornbatteries.com?afmc=explorist_bb67
➤Binge the Transit Van Build: • The Ultimate Camper Va...
Here are some additional resources that you may find helpful with planning and installing your DIY Camper:
➤DIY Sprinter Camper Van Electrical Install - Full Tutorial: • DIY Sprinter Camper Va...
➤DIY Camper Solar Wiring Diagrams: www.explorist.life/solarwirin...
➤How to Perform a Power Audit: • How Much Solar Power D...
➤Basic Parts & Components of an Electrical System: • Basic Solar Parts Need...
➤How to Cut Wire: www.explorist.life/how-to-cut...
➤How to Strip Wire: • How to Strip Wire from...
➤How to Crimp Wire: • How To Crimp Wire Lugs...
➤How to Make MC4 Connectors: • How To Make MC4 Connec...
➤How to Wire Solar Panels in Series-Parallel: • How to Wire Solar Pane...
➤How to Crimp Wire Ferrules: • How to Crimp Ferrules ...
➤How to Wire an AC/DC Breaker/Fuse Box: www.explorist.life/how-to-wir... - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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These videos, your calculator, and your package deals are a huge asset to the whole community of RV and van users. I can’t imagine how many hours of work went in to these. Thank you.
Hey, @JeffinTD! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀
Well, I used a complete electric solar system design that you did for an Air Stream trailer some time ago. I did a little downsizing (600 watts solar down to 400 watts so a smaller charge controller and 400 amps of Battleborns.) but otherwise used your system plan as is. The system has been in use for a little over a year now and has been fantastic. Thanks Nate!
I have to give it to you guys, you spend so much time on details. This helps so many, always well explained. If I ever pull off getting a van next year. I know I can start from beginning to end, watching your tutorials. Once again ,It's a big thanks from me
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for adding and discussing our desired configuration to the list. You also confirmed the same information I am hearing elsewhere about sizing and having a solar array that is a hair over the solar charge controller max (1460 watt array versus 1450 watts max). I continue to learn and understand more every week! Keep up the great work!
Glad it was helpful!
Got to say you have done a superb job with all your videos, calculators and kits.
Hey Eddie Lay, Thanks so much! Cheers!
Excellent as usual. You’re a huge asset in the community.
Hey, Stewart Perry! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀
I totally agree I can't believe all the effort you put into all this it's amazing
Wow, Nate, that was extremely helpful. I've used your worksheets before and this helped explain how to create different wiring options to maximize efficiency and minimize costs.
Glad it helped!
@@EXPLORISTlife I am sokerdy battery can you test our battery?
@@sokerdy Hey there!! I don't really do 'battery tests'. Will Prowse does battery tests. Maybe send your pitch in his direction.
Thanks for the specific and real world examples!
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent stuff. This video and using your Solar Charge Controller Calculator has answered all my questions after some weeks of fumbling around. So you know your great work is not for nought. I have locked this in on my design and my order for your 1200W Solar Charging Wiring Kit (6x 200W | 12V Battery Bank) will come when I get to that stage of my box van build out.
Another clear and simple tutorial. One other aspect, is the physical size rather than the electrical 'size'. I am not sure how relevant this is in the US with the RAM Promaster, but in Europe with the Ducato/Relay, there is an expensive, but nice roof rack made by Fiamma. It has the advantage that their awnings fit onto it without extra mounts. It also has a disadvantage, in that the space between the rails is 132cm. This makes it just too narrow to get 2 (100w or 120w) panels between the rails with their long axis along the length of the van. Larger panels can be too wide as singles. Now putting the panel above the rails would sort that, but I want them slightly below (not enough for shading to be an issue) to allow canoes to be transported more easily. Most conbinations I have looked at come out at 134-136cm wide. Nobody seems to make either a long/narrow panel that would work as a pair, or a higher capacity squarer panel that would work as a single. Still, i am sure there is a compromise somewhere. I seem to remember you did a video about fitting in the max possible area, even with odd sizes, so something on unusual panel shapes might be helpful/interesting. I can't be the only one with an odd roof geometry requirement.
I really love the way you explain things ...thank you
Glad it was helpful. Cheers!
Enjoyed the video. Thanks for sharing
Thank you for the very informative information. I do overlanding and transforming my truck little by little..
Right on!
very usefull, especially your comment about borderline amps and the controller and solar output under perfect conditions.
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
I fall into the “boarder line” area of charge controllers. I’m well under the voltage and only a few amps over for the 150/50. Since I have it already I will just stick with it but it’s good to know that I won’t ruin it by exceeding the amps on one of those super cold days scenario. Thanks for the info, you really are very helpful.
Great work Nate. Repetition is key to learning. Have you any links/videos/recommendations to shore power/generator voltage protection and Automatic Transfer Switching for your systems?
Excellent, Thank you very much for your time and efforts.
Glad it was helpful!
@@EXPLORISTlife Cheers 🍻 👍
Indeed! This is SO helpful! Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Superbe application !
Awesome! Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
WAY COOL...thanks for your valuable time
*BLACK FRIDAY SALE ENDS 11/28 MIDNITE MST ON **EXPLORIST.life** Wiring Kits:* shop.explorist.life
➤Charge Controller Calculator: www.explorist.life/solar-charge-controller-calculator/
➤Wire Size Calculator: www.explorist.life/wire-sizing-calculator/
➤EXPLORIST.life Solar Charging Kits: shop.explorist.life/product-category/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/solar-charging-wiring-kits/
➤How to Design a Solar Array Playlist: th-cam.com/play/PLmvhcyi4n0TV9pi83rFTv3ZuMT_S1xIZt.html
If there were other links/resources I promised that I didn't put here, let me know... I lost my list...
Thanks
Wow!Thanks for sharing the love...
No problem 😊
Thanks for the video
Very nice video. Thank you.
Glad you liked it!
Hi Nate, your videos are brilliant, methodical and well explained - I’ve been using your playlists to help design our van build setup. Thanks for putting so much thought and energy into resources to help others out! Got an unusual one for you here: 12V batteries. Roof space allows for 5 panels, Offgridtec 100W 24V - (Vmp) 39.6V, (Imp) 2.53A, (Voc) 47.5V, (Isc) 2.73A. No figures for temperature coefficient or series fuse rating. Wiring in parallel to keep the voltage down, I’ve calculated a 100/50 MPPT and 5A fuses on the panel side of the branch connector. Would be great if you could have a once over and let me know if this stacks up or if you have any advice? Cheers!
Hi Awesome videos, when you extract the data from the panel spreadsheets do you use the STC or NOCT values for power,Voc,Isc
Hello! I'm a big fan of all your videos, super great information in all of them. I've tried your solar charge controller calculator for my own setup with 3x410w solar panels, but somehow the website does not show me a recommended charge controller. Can you help me out here? Thank you in advance, looking forward to more videos!
This is SO nice! How do you use this ap if you have varied panels? I have four 100 watt panels and two 195 watt panels, each 12 volts. I would like to connect all in series. So I assume the end product is 72 volts and around 11 amps with a battery charge input of around 60 amps. That's my back-of-the envelope calculation but would like to confirm with an ap like this. thx.
As always, outstanding information. Do you ever plan to make your Solar Controller Calculator have the ability to calculate two parallel strings of different sized panels? Specifically, two panels in series that are 170 W and two panels in series that are 115 W. Then those two strings in parallel to the controller. Thanks again for all of the fantastic tutorials!
I have no anticipations of adding that, no. I have a video that teaches how to do that, though.
Hey Nate, I think in one of your videos you mentioned that you do some consulting work? I'm part of an EV charging system startup. We're looking for some advice in regards to charging a battery to charge an EV. Can we possibly get some advice from you? Thanks for all your informative videos!
I restified a 1973 single axle camper (8x15). All I need is power to run a very small fridge, approx 2 square feet. Its very frustrating when clowns try to convince you that you need excessive wattage (1000 to 3000) for that small unit. I have no plans to expand any electrical usage in the old camper. One fellow is persistent that I buy a 310 watt solar panel and a 3000 watt inverter from him.
Yep
Nate, I love your channel and have learned a ton. I purchased your OEM 50A retrofit wiring diagram and used it as my guide to install my Victron system. Now time to install my solar. I am looking at 2 different size of 200W panels. My question is if the Voc and Isc values are different between the 2 physical size panels (even though they are both 200W panels) do I need separate Solar Charge Controllers?
Thanks again!
We've got a video covering what happens when you do that. Do a youtube search for: EXPLORIST.life Mismatched Solar Panels
Hi. Thank you for the instruction. Meanwhile, I wonder when you are going to upload videos about your transit van build development.
Coming soon!
Hello Nate and thank you for the tutorial. Great and clear as usual.
So wit the risk of still being a little ignorant… Ill ask you something and hopefully if you have a minute to give me some advice.
My set up is the 4/200w RichSolar panels example you used in the video and watching the explanations and the two possible set ups for it, series parallel and series I found that the array is capable of putting 56w out the controller correct?! My question is why would RichSolar sell me those panels as a kit with everything needed but the included charge controller is a 40A. As far is I can interpret such charge controller would only handle the array in series parallel (won’t handle series) (Max Solar Input Voltage: 100VDC) So I’m limited to do a series parallel set up, no big deal but what I don’t get is why waste 16 more possible amps of charge? I could surely benefit from that any day living on an rv! So said charge controller will limit its charge to my battery bank to only 40A right?
What I’m trying to do is get the right information to see if I need to take these matter to RichSolar and have them exchange these controller for a better suited one to get the max out of the panels.
Controller:
richsolar.com/products/40-amp-mppt-solar-charge-controller?_pos=3&_sid=0b4b5cd9d&_ss=r
I hope I’m not being ridiculous or wasting your time. Thanks in advance, regards.
Your videos and website are fantastic and I have learned a lot. I have a question about the solar array and calculating watts. Your first example using four Renogy 100 watt panels that are 24.3 Volts and 5.39 Amps. Using the four 100 watt Renogy panels in this video and installing them in series and parallel, I come up with 523 watts. Not sure if my math is correct. If so, then how is it ok to have 523 watts and there are only 400 watts of panels. Is that a problem or did I miss you explaining this situation?
Hi Nate! You mentioned that if you go over the maximum charging power of the MPPT unit it regulates it down, but not demage the product... How much you can go over? I've planned a 700W-800W system wich will provide a charging power above 50Amps. My problem is, that my beloved uncle wanted to help me out and brought me a 150/35 controller. I know the planned array gonna go over in charging capacity AT OPTIMAL conditions, but -40 will not happen here. Do you think I can use it safely, or should I replace it? or just go lower in array size to 500w?
Which diagram should we purchase for our 48v system to follow along with your video?
What do you recommend for people wanting to do this for basically a mobile cafe use? I plan on making a mobile cafe and having it rely on solar only and being able to connect to an external generator if needed. I also want to use outlets that I can turn off incase I'm not using that device while out during events. I have so many questions.
Living in SUNNY SW Florida.
Temps are UP there.
Would Love to see Same build outs BUT for these HOT temps.
I think that the concepts I've taught you in this video and in my 'How to Design a Solar Array' playlist (th-cam.com/play/PLmvhcyi4n0TV9pi83rFTv3ZuMT_S1xIZt.html), you should be able to do that on your own for whatever temps you are in for your own specific application.
What if I have 2 200w panels going tonto a 100/30. I already factory have a second roof port and prewire for another charge controller. Im thinking of doing another 2 200w panels and another 100/30 charge controller in order to sync the controllers. Would you recommend this?
WOWW
🙂👍
My Motorized RV is a 1994 Dodge B350 VAN the original Alternator is 90 amp.
I’d like to change the cabin battery to Lithium to run my interior lights, refrigerator and occassionally the microwave. I do not have solar panels yet.
Which battery should I use? Do I need more than one? Can it charge while I’m driving from the alternator?
Will it work with a 12V 200Ah Lithium Battery, Rechargeable Lifepo4 Battery with Built-in 100A BMS Board? Do I need some kind of charger controller if the battery has BMS?
Thanks,
Judith Davis
Nate your videos have been so helpful and thought I was learning but now confused. My set up is similar to first example 4 100w panels. But from your earlier video I thought added the voltage of two panels 24.3v in series for 48.6v with 5.39a, then paralleled with other two panels add the amps to equal 10.78amps with total of 48.6volts. But to check and multiply the 48.6 x 10.78 amp is not equaling 400 watts it should? I rewatched earlier video but not finding what missing to equal the 55v you have.
Temperature. As temperature drops, voltage increases. Here's the video that talks about that: th-cam.com/video/MxziHKvTRh8/w-d-xo.html
Question for the group. I have a 2021 Keystone Avalanche with a Onan 5500W LP generator that was installed after purchase. I’m looking to install two 200W solar panels and eventually connect them to a Victron solar controller, Lynx distributor and 1200W Victron inventor. There is currently 1/0 + and - wires coming from the batteries to the generator. From there, it looks like the wiring goes out to the transfer switch and back into the AC distribution panel. All this works but when looking at the wiring diagram for the Lynx Distribution device, it has the + and - from the battery going to the Lynx Distributor first. Any advice on the proper way to add solar and see be able to use the generator to power the 5th and charge the batteries?
Question:
from your solar charge controller calculator page:
"If the Array Short Circuit Amperage is greater than the Max Series Fuse Rating, each series string must be protected by 2x 15A PV Fuses connected to the positive wires on the ‘panel side’ of the MC4 Combiner." Ok, so are these fuses in parallel or series when Isc>MaxFuse???
Awesome. I just wished you talked about the extra equipment like the 24 to 12v step down converter because I can't find nice looking 24v led lights and evebody say 24v battery arrays are more efficient and cost effective for a Camper van.
24V battery banks aren't really more efficient. You really only need a 24V battery bank if you are going over 3000w of inverting power.
Hi Nate, thank you for explaining my array.. Yes it will be two arrays but it's 10 now not 9.. I'm thinking of different 200w panels not which will require the Victron 150/70.
Great! I think we've got an array set up for 10x200w panels at shop.explorist.life as well (or you can figure out what you need from the info taught in this video.
@@EXPLORISTlife Thanks Nate and i would buy from you as you have taught me a lot, so thank you.. Sadly USPS would charge a small fortune to ship to me.
My Newpowa panels do not have a Max Series Fuse rating. It does have a Short Circuit Current (ISC) rating. Is this the number one would put in the calculator for Max Series Fuse rating?
If not, where would I find out this value for these panels?
Thanks nate I live in my dodge grand caravan I have a 180 watt bouge rv 12 volt solar panel on the roof with a 1500 watt pure sin inverter by windy nation and 100ah chins life po 4 battery and everything works great except I need a bigger battery bank like 1 more chins battery will probably be all I need. Everything is so much better since I switched to the life po 4. So much better than flooded lead acid
Great! Sounds like a cool project.
Hi,
Is it OK to mix different types of solar panels ?
I now have 2x 150W, 12V, poly panels in series and would like to add a 3rd panel. As I don't fi d the same panels anymore, I would like to add a 170W, 12V MONO panel, also in series. Can I do this without extra parts ?
Nb, the wires now go straight into my Ecoflow Delta 2 power station.
Supplement question.
Later I would like to use these setup, with the 3 panels, to also charge a fix battery using a MPPT controller.
Can I put a Y splitter to go to my Delta 2 and the other Y splitter out into the controller, and if so do I need to put something extra to do so ?
hmmm, probably a small error, but you referenced the Renogy panel (VoC of 24.3) in the spreadsheet, but put the VoC of the NewPowa Voc (22.12) into the calculator. Would it affect the suggested charge controller recommendation?
Nate, your the man!! i just need some more help, the Renogy 320 Watt 6 Solar Panel Array example you skipped at the bottom, is the one i have purchased recently and am looking to install on top of a converted school bus. The only thing is the calculator comes back and says that the amperage is to big for any MPPT currently. Panels will be setup in series to a combiner box that will feed back inside. is there anyway to avoid getting 2 inverters/mppt control boxes? feel like my math is maybe jumbled up looking at 10+ videos haha thanks
I would indeed recommend splitting the array into two, each going to it's own charge controller if you were using a 12v battery bank. Or you could keep them all on one charge controller if you are using a 24V battery bank. 🙂👍
Here is a weird question for you. Can you put rainx on panels without hurting them. In Alaska.
Can anyone answer this question? I’m looking a 3 x solar panels in parallel setup using a MC4 3 to 1 branch joiner, if I disconnect one panel from the branch connection when on the road, will the other two panel still work? Charge the battery?
Nine thousand volts?
I'm trying to keep up,
does that have to be shunted or disconect Before the Flux Capacitor
or can you send the lightning straight to it.
¿
Thank you for this.. I'm installing 4x200watt panels in series-parallel, on my 5th-wheel roof (50amp shore hookup). Feeding two, 206aH SOK lithium batteries, a 3000w inverter and integrating a 50amp Auto Transfer Switch so that I don't have to worry about back-feeding into the converter. Can you please tell me which HiRes wiring diagram I need to purchase?
This one: www.explorist.life/50a-camper-inverter-with-solar-alternator-charging-wiring-diagram/
How can I get the solar charger controller calculator please?
What kit the I need to operate 12,000 btu mini split A/C unit that needs 12 amp.
That took a lot of work to put together I'm sure! Very very helpful though!
Glad it was helpful!
I love your programs. You do a great job. However, I ran your controller calculator and got a WARNING! "Solar array voltage MUST be at least 5V higher than battery bank voltage for the charge controller to operate.” I’m working with Ocean Planet out of Maine. We are planning on a Genasn MPPT Boost controller. Two 78W panels in parallel to 2 Genasun controllers. (Sailboat with panel shading.) Boost up to 116W. I know I didn’t give you all the specs but does this sound right? Wish I could attach a PDF of the calculator.
Tough to say for certain, but if your solar array voltage is not at least 5V higher than your battery bank voltage, Victron charge controllers won't turn on. If you are using a different brand of MPPT, you'll want to go with what they say in their instructions.
Am using a self designed Dual Axis Solar Tracker on the roof of my 1976 Argosy 26T. It has 2 - 100 Watt/5.5 Amp Eco-Worthy panels on it wired in series. It works great for longer hours than flat mounted panels. The system has 2 - 100 AH Aolithiums and Renogy components in it. I was however thinking of adding 2 - more Eco-Worthy panels in series with the same specs flat mounted on the roof as well. The 2 sets will be wired together in parallel as per your great wiring diagrams (Thanks!). Do you think the 2 flat mounted panels will curtail my power output from the 2 on the tracker?
My hypothesis that long-term, there would be minimal losses or inefficient due to the 'effectively' mismatched panels.
Great video with lots of detail. It seems all of these combos are dealing with multiples of the the same panels and I was wondering how it work out if the panel sizes were not the same? My RV came with a single 100W GoPower panel and the plan I would like to implement is to buy one more 100W panel and two more 200W panels. Can these 4 panels be combined in a series / parallel configuration and run into a single charge controller? If so, would I need to make sure that the other 100W panel was an exact match to my existing panel or just find one with similar specs?
th-cam.com/video/jejro4zkl8I/w-d-xo.html
Thx for pointing me in the right direction.
Are you using a plugin for that calculator? What is it? Like how the picture changes.
I am indeed using a plug-in for the calculator. Glad you like it!
Thanks for the great video! Quick question on the 400W example: I see that a fuse is not needed when the array Amperage was 10.78A where the max fuse rating is 15A. But would it hurt anything to put a fuse there anyway? Is there ever a "just in case" reason?
It wouldn't do anything. If it's not needed, it's not needed. There's no way that array could produce enough power, even during a short, to blow a 15A fuse.
Introducing unnecessary fuses just adds an additional point of failure without benefit.
@@EXPLORISTlife Great. Thank you!
First...Thank you for all your instructional videos! Very much appreciated. My question is on wattage going into a Solar charge controller. The maximum voltages and Amperage's going into a charge controller I get...What about a Maximum wattage? Are there max wattages that the controllers can accept? If I were to set up a Series/Parallel solar panel system of 8 x 200w panels...1600w total combined power...do I need to worry about that? Or just make sure the voltage and amperage is not exceeded?
I don't remember what the timestamp was, but I know for sure that I addressed that in this video. I think I even used the 8x200w example.
Yeah... check the 37:37 mark.
@@EXPLORISTlife OK I got it. Thank you!!!
Hi 👋 👋 👋
I am adding lithium batteries in place of lead acid. m converter/charger has a lithium switch on it, so thats ok. can I leave that connected to batteries while adding the systems you have listed in this video?
Usually, yes. Check your converter/charger manual to make sure it doesn't warn about adding a secondary charging source, but that's usually not an issue.
Any thoughts on how to enter a mismatched panel array into the calculator. I have 1 175 watt, 1 100 watt and 2 50 watt panels in my array
Not an option. You'll have to figure that manually with my 'mismatched solar panels' video.
I’m looking at a split charging system for me camper. So 90% charge to leasure battery and the remaining 10% to the engine just to keep the voltage up. Can Victron do this?
If you're talking about just from solar, There are victron parts that can make that happen, but it's not a native charge controller function. I think the thing that may be more important is to find out why your starter battery is dying. It shouldn't need an extra charge outside of the alternator as the vehicle is designed.
Hi, I have two Delta Pro with the 240 Volt Hub tied to my power circuit Box with a inter-lock in-place and off Grid. Now when I run the Eco-flow Delta Pro with 240 volts and grounded to through to power circuit Box. Now my question is I have 8 200 watts on each of of the 2 Eco-flow Delta Pro Generators for a total of 3200 Watts, Do I need to ground my Solar Panels as well?
2
In a camper, we don't ground the arrays and they are considered 'floating' since there's no way to actually attach them to the ground (the whole moving around thing and all). Sounds like you are building an array for a stationary application, though? If so, you'll want to dive into the codes and standards that your local AHJ follows for guidance there.
Hope you answer this although maybe not the right place - but I know many of us face this problem! Protecting our roof mounted solar panels from scratching by branches and breakage by hail. I follow (chase) storms in my truck camper and get hit by a lot of hail. I also drive my truck camper into the brush and trees. I don't want to have to stop. The top of the camper is dimpled like a golf ball and scratched like it was raked. Its been great and while I avoid baseball size hail and above it still happens. Now that I have 10 Renology 100W panels on top, how can I best protect them. I have researched acrylic and polycarbonate and currently use lexan on top of the escape hatch. But its really tough figuring out what material, and what methods, will provide security without allowing water and debris to leak between protective cover and panel. Help??
Solar panels are usually tougher than your roof. If the hail is big enough to break the solar panels, it will also likely break your windshield.
Nate: I am in Malaysia. OK, Now What? I have 4, REC 400W panels. My Victron rep ran my numbers and told me the 100/50 controller will work with two 400W REC panels voc =46 Isc =8.28 Temp -26C. Battery bank 12V. I have 4 panels in 2 strings each running to a controller and it's own disconnect. Your figures are telling me I need 2ea 150/60 units . I already have two 100/50 Victron units. Suggestions Please
What is the most width in inches in new jersey you can extent solar panels over each side of a motor home and be legal to travel over staying with-in moterhone travel over roadways
That sounds like a good question to type into google. 😂
I am buying a 27' Class C motorhome and want to install solar - enough to allow me to live comfortably out boondocking. I'm thinking three 180w panels should do it (unless you think otherwise, your thoughts are very welcomed). My question is, approximately what am I looking at price-wise to get it done properly? Lithium batteries included.
It depends on if 'living comfortably' includes air conditioning or not. This video should get you started: th-cam.com/video/a406IxiU-Xg/w-d-xo.html
Great video, but my setup is not covered and I can't figure out how to put it into your calculator. I have 3, 175 watt panels. Two are in series and those are in parallel to the single panel. Would it be better to put them all in series?
You'd want all three in series, yes. Doing what you are proposing with 2 in series with a single in parallel would yield very poor results.
@@EXPLORISTlife Please let me explain in more detail. I actually have two Renogy 175w panels that I added to the 170w Zamp panel that came on my camper. I'm using a Victron 150/35 controller because I figure I will never get 100% of the 520w available. I think that the Renegy and Zamp panels are similar enough to work together in series. Your thoughts?
Wiring in series will still be the best possible solution even in spite of the mismatched solar panels.
Will it hurt my 150 by 35 MPPT charger if I run a 155 V 30 amps from My saler panels. It 5volts over? Thanks
Yep. That's no Bueno. 👎👎
hi quick question.
will paralleling lifepo4 lithium 300 ah batteries increase their max charge rate.
i have a 100 amp mppt controller and want to parallel 2 or more lifepo4 lithium 300 ah batteries with a max charge current of 75 amps each.
Yes.
I want to make a 48v 500 w panel from 2- 200w 12v panels and 2-50w 12v panels...Renogy says the panels will take the lowest value and all become 50w panels for a total of 200w 48v panel???? is this correct?
Hey, jamie ïles! I appreciate you taking the time to ask your question, but unfortunately, I don't have enough info about your specific question to provide an accurate answer, but here is a playlist that, if you watch all of the videos start-to-finish (and take notes 😉), you'll have a REALLY good idea of how to design a solar array: th-cam.com/video/Jkbs84sBHsg/w-d-xo.html
Alternatively, I have some of my most common solar array setups pre-built here: shop.explorist.life/product-category/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/solar-charging-wiring-kits/
I have a question about putting the four 200W panels all in series. If that is done, won't that create the opportunity to have the panels made virtually useless (ok, maybe not useless, but certainly not as effective as they should be) if any one of the four panels are shaded? I have four 200W BougeRV panels and a Victron MPPT 150/85-TR (I opted for the larger MPPT given that I might add up to two more 200W panels). I was thinking of running them all in parallel, or at a minimum series/parallel. I feel like I'm missing something about the benefit of going all series, other than a smaller wiring and potentially need for fuse. Thanks!
If maximum solar production is the goal... don't park your camper where there will be shading on a panel.
@EXPLORISTlife , to further my thought (since one can't always park where there is no shade), what is the diode option I've heard about? I don't recall that I've heard you mention it, but I've seen some older videos by others where it is referred to as a way to negate the shade effect on series setups?
Also, what is the Max Series fuse about? I don't recall hearing about that.
Thanks, as always! You guys rule!
I was hoping you would give some detail on how to size a pv disconnect in this video. Maybe you will in the future. I'm building a 1820W system for my conversion. 2s2p config, 24v Batteries, 123V TC Array Volts, 63A Controller Output Amps, Array short Amps 22.88A from your calculator (I will need PV Fuses). As an example, the switch you sell is rated for 63A too. Are the controller out and controller in amps the same? If so, that's going to be too close I think?
The isolator is on the 'array' side of the controller. What is the 'array' amperage?
@@EXPLORISTlife The Maximum Power Current (IMP) is 10.96 A. Is it as simple as 4x for the 4 panels?
@@xares420 Just use the array short circuit amps.
@@EXPLORISTlife Thank you for clearing that up, I really appreciate it!
I have decided to go with four 200W panels on my RV and in the video you seem to favor hooking all 4 panels in series rather than in a series/parallel configuration even though they both would end up with the same 150/60 charge controller. My understanding is that if your whole array is hooked in series only the setup would be crippled in any one of the panels gets shaded. For this reason alone, I would think the series/parallel configuration would be a better choice. Am I not understanding this correctly? Thx
For maximum solar output, ensure that there is no shade on your panels. Solar panels need sun to function optimally.
Yes, I realize that avoiding shade on my solar panels is best, but this is an RV that we camp in many different places, and to avoid shade will be impossible. Knowing this, it seems wiring in a series/ parallel would help when shade can not be avoided. Is this correct, or am I not understanding this correctly.
We lived on the road full time for ~4 years and "partial shading" was never an issue. Either everything was in the sun, or everything was in the shade. There was never a time when we had exactly 4 cells in the shade that affected the whole array.
Using the first example, Renegy solar panel with the mppt charge controller 100/30:
These four panels supposedly bring in 400w. However, they never really do bring in 400 watts. I have this exact setup and can’t get more than 265 watts on a good day. The max for my power generator / mppt controller is 400w; could more solar panels be added to reach an actual input of 400w, assuming voltage limits are not exceeded? With 2 in series times 3 sets connected in parallel, approx 42 volts (2 * 20.4 Vmp) & 14.73 amps (3 * 4.91A), this would be well under the 100V limit. However, being 600w total array, it would exceed the 400w based on solar panels watts advertised; but would be less than 400w actual input even on the best days. Is it ok to oversize solar panel array if actual input total watts and voltage remain below the limits of the mppt charge controller? I think this is a pretty common problem since solar panels are rarely, if ever, producing at advertised watts.
They will make the full rated amount of power on a cool sunny day. I've seen 240W from 2x 100w panels before.
Hi, do you ship to Canada, I’m in Quebec . Thx
We sure do!
You probably get this question frequently, but it's important to my array, so I'll ask the stupid question.
You seem to favor panel wiring in series, however, what happens in a partial shade situation? Am I not in danger of cutting the output in half or more with a 2 x400w array?
If maximum power output is the goal, you'll want to avoid shade. It's pretty rare that you'll find a spot to park your camper where you'll have perfect sun on two panels and the other two will be perfectly shaded. If you find yourself in this situation... pull forward or back up 10ft.
@@EXPLORISTlife How much power is lost by going parallel?
Hi Nate, do you ship outside your country
Yep!
What’s best controller can I use
On my 260w x3
38voc 8.89 amp
In parallel
Did you try to apply any of the things I taught in this video? C'mon man... give me a little effort.
Do i add up the 260w in parallel or does it stay the same but I add the amps up too get the right controller
Question, Sunpower SPR-225. VOC says 48.5. Why is it so much higher than all of yours listed?
It's just the way they made/designed it. 🤷♂️
If you have two strings of 100watt but one string is higher voltage is that a problem
Search for "EXPLORIST.life Mismatched Solar Panels".
Please please make a video about 48v lithium titanate battery system with 48 volt solar panel..It will be very much helpful for everyone....🙂
I'll see what I can do! Thanks for watching. 🙂😁
I’m wondering/confused with the 400w array why the victron mppt 75/15 controller isn’t a recommendation . Electricity is my weakness…
Solar array wattage / Battery Bank Charging Voltage = Charge controller Output amperage
400W / 14.5V = 27.5A
27.5A is too many amps output for the 15A max output for the MPPT 75|15.
does it hurt to have mp4 fuses when it says you don't need them?
Every additional connection/component is a potential point of failure and expense. If it's not needed, I wouldn't install it.
Where do I find the calculators probably on the website or something I'll try to figure it out. Great information thanks again I left you a long drawn out comments I might delete it on one of your other videos. Because I couldn't find these I didn't see these and then all of a sudden I found them. I don't think I can do what I was planning on doing on that other comment. I'm just going to leave my system the way it is.. I have to go try to find your store. If you see this message maybe you can reply with a link I would really appreciate it.
Calculators are at www.explorist.life -> Blog -> Calculators
@@EXPLORISTlife thank you very much I made it there n it's very helpful😊
@@EXPLORISTlife thank you very much on the calculator link
I need wire kit diagram, schematics, and material list, and batteries can you help , spreadsheet?
Calacokid
Yep! Check our store. We have systems pre-designed and ready to go with all of that stuff: shop.explorist.life
Nate do you have any schematics for off grid cabins / non automotive? Specifically 12v, less than 800w solar and 100ah x4 batteries? Also I think you should have an Amazon affiliate link page that adds ALL items of a build to the cart. One button press and voila, we buy your curated system.
So, why would you not just want to buy directly from us like I talked about in this video instead of going through Amazon? We already have the 'one click and voila' in our store and we aren't having to split profits with bezos which helps us make better videos for all of you. 🤷
@@EXPLORISTlife I'm down for supporting you. Gimme a link. I need the whole enchilada down to fuses, wires, bolts etc. Prefer victron parts EXCEPT for the inverter. Wanna use the 3000 watt Will Prowse suggested, name is escaping me at the moment.
@@MyChannel-vm6dw Check this video and the link in the pinned comment to see what we've got going on: th-cam.com/video/F8nLRWf5ga8/w-d-xo.html
@@EXPLORISTlifehi Nate are you shipping to Europe?
@@SpantuCatalin Yep! We ship anywhere in the world that can accept a package from the USA.
I’m a beginner solar diy’er…Could use some advice in designing my solar panel array. I have a “Off Grid” workshop that I am try to power up with 2 ea. EcoFlow Ultra Pro Inverters and 40 ea. 240Watt solar panels with the following specs:
Solar Panel Specs:
Rated Max Power 240W
Current @ PMAX 8.11a
Voltage @PMAX 29.6V
Short Cir Current 8.46a
Open cir 36.9 v
ECOFLOW recommends wiring the solar array in Series with the following requirements:
There are 2 inputs for solar charging HI input (4000watts), LOW input (1600 watts)
ECOFLOW INVERTER SPEC/REQUIREMENTS:
Voltage range for low-PV input: 30V < total solar input < 150V max 1600 watts
Voltage range for high-PV input: 80V < total solar input < 450V max 4000 watts
Would like to know if this array would safely work within the EcoFlow requirements
Inverter 1--- HI INPUT 15 panels and LOW INPUT 4 panels wired in series
Inverter 2 --- HI INPUT 15 panels and LOW INPUT 4 panels wired in series
Would like to know if this array would safely work within the EcoFlow requirements
Any advice would be appreciated
Certainly! I have all kinds of advice. We have made videos and put them into a playlist and if you watch all of the videos start-to-finish (and take notes 😉), you'll have a REALLY good idea of how to design a solar array: th-cam.com/video/Jkbs84sBHsg/w-d-xo.html&list=PLmvhcyi4n0TV9pi83rFTv3ZuMT_S1xIZt
I'm still a ways away from my solar setup, but was thinking of 8 475w panels... Can I contact you and you build me a system to buy from you when I'm ready?
Yes; but we do require a deposit for stuff like that. And it's best if you contact us before you buy anything.
@@EXPLORISTlife Sounds good! I'll make sure i'll reach out before I purchase anything and I'm ready.
New to solar and building my own van...
Have a question because Iʻve never heard of a parallel series (only series parallel)...basically have zero electrical, just know that series I add the volts, and parallel I add the amps...
Whenver something doesnʻt match on the other I keep the lowest one.
I have 10 solar panels, rest of the roof is a fresair and a maxxair fan. Iʻve sized my solar array. I donʻt need a lot because Iʻm using a propane stove/oven and a diesel heater which will heat my water too. I estimated all my electric and I estimated I will need between 600-800 watts of solar based on my usage...however only 735 watts of solar will fit on my roof and Iʻm trying to be reasonably stealthy will a low profile.
7 QTY - Renogy 30 Watt (19.5V, 1.6A)
3 QTY - Renogy 175 Watt (17.95V, 9.75A)
At 100% efficiency this would be 735 Watts.
However I lose a lot of this efficiency in any configuration except a parallel series.
I wire the 7 solar 30 watt panels in Parallel - call that strand A
30 Watt - Strand A in Parallel (19.5V, 11.2A)
I wire the 3 solar 175 watt panels in Series - call that strand B
175 Watt - Strand B in Series (53.85V, 9.75A)
I wire Strand A and Strand B in series given the similar amps.
Iʻll call that the Result...
Result (73.35V, 9.75A) 715.1625 Watts...this is a 97% efficiency from 735 Watts.
At least do I understand this correctly; can I do it this way? I couldnʻt find any online examples with a setup similar to mine. I saw this mix-matching but none that started in parallel.
Right thinking? Can I wire this way? If so, iʻll try to reach out to figure out how to get a wiring kit that can do this.
www.renogy.com/.../RNG.../RNG-30D-SS%20Datasheet.pdf
www.renogy.com/.../RNG-175D/RNG-175D%20Datasheet.pdf
I have also never heard of anybody doing a parallel-series array and am not sure how that would work out. I'd just recommend running your two different sizes of panels to separate charge controllers to remove all doubt.
@@EXPLORISTlife thank you Nate. Do you have any examples, write ups, or videos of how to run a 400 or 600 amp battery bank charged from 2 separate charge controllers?
@@kalanibright9236 Yep! -> th-cam.com/video/N0UB7LZVduk/w-d-xo.html
@@EXPLORISTlife you’re the best!
Wonder why more domestic panels aren't used much for campers. Like you are able to get a single panel up to 400 watts now, while usually much cheaper... Maybe they're less efficient!
I've seen 400W panels in use quite a few times. Most of the time, they aren't cheaper when you're only buying 1-4 of them due to high shipping costs. We used a 400W panel in this build: th-cam.com/video/01F4QDVJUq0/w-d-xo.html
question ... states in the first example 400 watts .... isnt it 200watts as 2x series = 200w and 2 banks in parallel is still 200w but 10 amps (series adds watts and parallel adds amps?)
Nope. I think this will be the best video for you to review: th-cam.com/video/KJ5zCY5EBeQ/w-d-xo.html
@@EXPLORISTlife ah i was thinking watts not volts ... thanks