Watching the number of steps that it takes before they can be sold explains why the prices are what they are. Thank for showing the process. They are beautiful.
Thanks!! It’s made making multiple boards at one time easier. I have a plexi glass template and I use a flush cut bit. Saves a lot time sanding and shaping. I am working on getting a website uo and going and will be selling templates and forms in the near future 👍🏻. Thanks for watching, I hope it was enjoyable!
Pretty awesome that video just happened to show up on my feed today. I just milled a hickory yesterday and have a beautiful slab that's just too pretty to cut into fire wood for the smoke house. I wasn't sure what I was gonna do with it until now! Thanks!! Subbed!
This was really good explained and that are 3 really nice boards! Is it just for privat use and a hobby or do you start here a small business? I love them, big enough for a hole salmon, small enough to put it on the table! Good work! Like it and I subscribed!
@@whiskyrivercustomwoodworki2012 Hey there, Just wanted to reach out and say I followed your guide, and my boards came out incredible. The wood rasps you recommended saved me so much time and made sanding a lot easier. I've never had a sanding procedure this complex before and was a bit skeptical, but holy cow was it worth it. I'm still blow away by how buttery smooth it turned out. I'm not even trying to sell them, I'm going to give all four of them to my best friend's mother (one is a huge board made with Red Grandis, Walnut, Soft Maple, and White Oak). (btw I just now noticed your video had the specific router bit you used lol. Thanks for still replying!)
Nice work. Is that your signature handle? Nice design. I don't have a signature handle seems every board is slightly different. Thanks for sharing your talent
Thank you I appreciate it! It’s a variation of a few I’ve seen and liked. I made a template for them now and use a flush cut bit, so they stay very consistent.
My rule of thumb is it needs to be down to a min of 10-11% moisture and acclimated to your shop or the environment it will be in. You can buy moisture readers (there are a few different types) to find out where the material is at. If you have the ability to have it kiln dried that will be the fastest. If not, you will have to sticker it and let it air dry. That generally takes a year or two depending on thickness, air movement, humidity etc. I hope this helps! Feel free to reach out if you have any other questions and thanks for watching the video!
I try to start at least a 1/2” thicker than what you want it to be finished. These were 1.5” thick and finish were about 1.25”. Depends on how much milling needs to be done as well. These were already planed and sanded to 120 after they came out of the kiln so they didn’t need much. If you are starting from scratch on rough sawn material I’d say 3/4” thicker than what you want it to be finished.
Generally what I’ve found is that it’s usually one of two things. Either you a turning to tight to fast or you have the wrong blade. There are two types of blades one where the teeth cut on the up stroke or one where the teeth cut on the down stroke. You want the teeth that cut on the up stroke. I’ve had this happen to me before too and I couldn’t for the life of me figure it out. Hope this helps!
These boards were yes. But air dried or kiln dried doesn’t really matter as long as it’s dry! My personal opinion is 12% or less moisture and then acclimate for 2 weeks to the environment it’ll be in is ideal. Can be done with less or more, it just may or may not lay flat.
Don’t be. Properly dried walnut is a dream to work with. Anything from 1.5” - 2” will be just fine. Give it a few days to acclimate to your shop before starting and you’ll be good to go if it’s been kiln dried.
If you skip to 6:16 in the video I go into detail about why I do it and how I go about doing it. It isn’t always necessary if you’re painting the project, but if your applying stain or other finishes I’ve found the end result is a much smoother and even finish. It helps pull dust, debris, and wood fibers up that kind of get mashed down through the sanding process. Hope this helps 👍🏻!
It depends, these have all sold for $150 each. I have more for sale now, and you can see what I have to offer on my Instagram @billyweigandt. I don’t currently have a website for the shop. I can ship these as well 👍🏻
I meant “budget” more along the lines of the tools and techniques I used for making one of these as opposed to the I material used. I had some walnut left from another build so that’s what I used in the video. I agree though, like a lot of things the cost of wood has gone through the roof to!
@@whiskyrivercustomwoodworki2012 no worries brother. Also makes me laugh now when I see videos like, “Don’t throw away scrap wood. 5 things to make” No such thing as scrap anymore 🤣
On Rubio’s website they explain that they have food contact compliance. So it’s ok to use on charcuterie boards, countertops etc. That was one of the big reasons I like to use it on things like this.
@@whiskyrivercustomwoodworki2012 I use it on my tables (pmh custom creations) works well over the epoxy as well. I have some red cedar and black walnut quarter sawn x 8-10". Think I'll try this way on a few compared to making a oil/beeswax mix. Thanks for the tip I'll definitely mention the credit on the info!
@@xmu69 I’d really appreciate that! I think you’ll like it. I use it and then once it cures, I put a butcher block conditioner/wax on also to help bring up the shine and add a little extra protection. I’ve had awesome results with it.
Wow wisky they look fantastic beautiful job mate and tuition thanks a bunch 👍👏
Thanks bud! I appreciate it and I’m glad you liked the video. Cheers 🍻
Watching the number of steps that it takes before they can be sold explains why the prices are what they are. Thank for showing the process. They are beautiful.
Great idea having one handle template and letting the live edge determine the rest of the shape 👍👍👍
Thanks!! It’s made making multiple boards at one time easier. I have a plexi glass template and I use a flush cut bit. Saves a lot time sanding and shaping. I am working on getting a website uo and going and will be selling templates and forms in the near future 👍🏻. Thanks for watching, I hope it was enjoyable!
Loved it. I am looking to make some of these for fun.
Thank you so much. You show everything very well and clearly. and you explain step by step. it was very useful for me.
Thanks again
Your shop is fine! If it works for you thats all that matters! Great work these look awesome!
Thank you for your time, and for sharing. Looks great 🙌
Thank you!! I’m glad you enjoyed the video 🍻
Thank you for explaining in detail how you sanded and finished the boards. They look fantastic. Good job.
Thank you!! I appreciate it greatly.
Excellent Video. Thanks !
Thank you! Glad you liked it 👍🏻🥃
thank you very much for the insightful tips, the boards are just beautiful!!!!!
Thank you, I’m glad the video could help! I appreciate it greatly.
Thank you bro! Great video!!!! Beautiful boards
I appreciate it! They’re a lot of work but definitely worth the time. Hope the video helps 👍🏻
Thank you for this video, which round ober bit did you use ? 1/4" ? Greets from austria 🇦🇹
Yes, it was the 1/4” round over. Thank you! I’m glad you enjoyed the video 🍻.
Pretty awesome that video just happened to show up on my feed today. I just milled a hickory yesterday and have a beautiful slab that's just too pretty to cut into fire wood for the smoke house. I wasn't sure what I was gonna do with it until now! Thanks!! Subbed!
Glad to hear it! Share some pictures when you get it done 👍🏻
thank you so much for this outstanding video. Your boards are awesome.
Glad you like them! I appreciate it. I have several for sale if you are ever interested 👍🏻
@@whiskyrivercustomwoodworki2012 11
@@lonnieridgeway8858 what do you mean 11?
This was really good explained and that are 3 really nice boards! Is it just for privat use and a hobby or do you start here a small business? I love them, big enough for a hole salmon, small enough to put it on the table! Good work! Like it and I subscribed!
Thank you very much! I appreciate it. This is a small business I do on the side.
Thank you so much for sharing the details. These look amazing and makes me want to try my hand thank to your detailed instructions. Looks like fun.
Thank you very much I appreciate it. Hopefully the video can help you make it happen 👍🏻.
Great video and looks amazing
Thank you, I really appreciate it 👍🏻
Nice job on the boards
Thank you very much, glad you like them!
I really like them, they look so pretty.👍
Thank you! I appreciate it 👍🏻
Great video. Thank you!
Hey there! What router bit are you using for the table? Thanks so much, this look super easy for a DIY project
I’m glad you enjoyed the video! It’s a 3/8” round over bit.
@@whiskyrivercustomwoodworki2012 Thanks for getting back so fast!
@@whiskyrivercustomwoodworki2012 Hey there,
Just wanted to reach out and say I followed your guide, and my boards came out incredible. The wood rasps you recommended saved me so much time and made sanding a lot easier. I've never had a sanding procedure this complex before and was a bit skeptical, but holy cow was it worth it. I'm still blow away by how buttery smooth it turned out. I'm not even trying to sell them, I'm going to give all four of them to my best friend's mother (one is a huge board made with Red Grandis, Walnut, Soft Maple, and White Oak).
(btw I just now noticed your video had the specific router bit you used lol. Thanks for still replying!)
Nice work. Is that your signature handle? Nice design. I don't have a signature handle seems every board is slightly different. Thanks for sharing your talent
Thank you I appreciate it! It’s a variation of a few I’ve seen and liked. I made a template for them now and use a flush cut bit, so they stay very consistent.
awesome job!!!!!!
Thank you! I’m glad you liked the video 👍🏻👍🏻
Excellent video!
Beautiful and like you are using basic woodworking techniques. Are you using just the oil…looks like mixing with the accelerator?
Thank you! Yes, I always use the accelerator.
How long you has to dry after cut from tree. Before you can start sanding?
My rule of thumb is it needs to be down to a min of 10-11% moisture and acclimated to your shop or the environment it will be in. You can buy moisture readers (there are a few different types) to find out where the material is at. If you have the ability to have it kiln dried that will be the fastest. If not, you will have to sticker it and let it air dry. That generally takes a year or two depending on thickness, air movement, humidity etc. I hope this helps! Feel free to reach out if you have any other questions and thanks for watching the video!
Nice
Thank you! Hope it helped 👍
Good video 👏👏
Nicely done
Thank you!
Hey use a pencil marks to be sure you get the sanding coverage.
I’ve switched to that since making this video, I agree! It works very well.
How thick are your slabs when you start?
I try to start at least a 1/2” thicker than what you want it to be finished. These were 1.5” thick and finish were about 1.25”. Depends on how much milling needs to be done as well. These were already planed and sanded to 120 after they came out of the kiln so they didn’t need much. If you are starting from scratch on rough sawn material I’d say 3/4” thicker than what you want it to be finished.
What kind of heater do you have? 🤔 great job by the way
Thank you, I appreciate it! It is a Mr Heater Big Max. Does a great job, just not the best for the dust.
Everytime I try and use a jigsaw, it bounces. What am I doing wrong?
Generally what I’ve found is that it’s usually one of two things. Either you a turning to tight to fast or you have the wrong blade. There are two types of blades one where the teeth cut on the up stroke or one where the teeth cut on the down stroke. You want the teeth that cut on the up stroke. I’ve had this happen to me before too and I couldn’t for the life of me figure it out. Hope this helps!
Great job on these. Any chance of putting a template of the handle up on your comments. Perhaps a PDF file? Thank you. Subscribed
Thank you, I appreciate it! I will see what I can come up with.
I'm assuming they are kiln dried?
These boards were yes. But air dried or kiln dried doesn’t really matter as long as it’s dry! My personal opinion is 12% or less moisture and then acclimate for 2 weeks to the environment it’ll be in is ideal. Can be done with less or more, it just may or may not lay flat.
How thick was the wood?
It started off 1 3/4”. Finishes just under that. It was already dried, planned and sanded to 120 when I started.
Thanks for responding! I’m worried about cutting that thickness especially black walnut
Don’t be. Properly dried walnut is a dream to work with. Anything from 1.5” - 2” will be just fine. Give it a few days to acclimate to your shop before starting and you’ll be good to go if it’s been kiln dried.
in the sanding process, what is "water pop"?
If you skip to 6:16 in the video I go into detail about why I do it and how I go about doing it. It isn’t always necessary if you’re painting the project, but if your applying stain or other finishes I’ve found the end result is a much smoother and even finish. It helps pull dust, debris, and wood fibers up that kind of get mashed down through the sanding process. Hope this helps 👍🏻!
@@whiskyrivercustomwoodworki2012 awesome ty
How thick is the board is my question
These ended up being 1 1/4” finished. They started at 1 1/2” five or take.
Bud light....Oooooo
How much do you sell them for
It depends, these have all sold for $150 each. I have more for sale now, and you can see what I have to offer on my Instagram @billyweigandt. I don’t currently have a website for the shop. I can ship these as well 👍🏻
@@whiskyrivercustomwoodworki2012 that's really great. How do you sell without a website? Only on Instagram?
I watch these videos I guess I don't get it what do they use them far
They are used as a serving tray
Love you man but Black Walnut right now?!!! On a budget?!!! Not in the PNW brother.
I meant “budget” more along the lines of the tools and techniques I used for making one of these as opposed to the I material used. I had some walnut left from another build so that’s what I used in the video. I agree though, like a lot of things the cost of wood has gone through the roof to!
@@whiskyrivercustomwoodworki2012 no worries brother. Also makes me laugh now when I see videos like, “Don’t throw away scrap wood. 5 things to make” No such thing as scrap anymore 🤣
@@alexreid4131 agreed! No such thing as scrap 👍🏻
Hmm didnt think rubio was food safe
On Rubio’s website they explain that they have food contact compliance. So it’s ok to use on charcuterie boards, countertops etc. That was one of the big reasons I like to use it on things like this.
@@whiskyrivercustomwoodworki2012 I use it on my tables (pmh custom creations) works well over the epoxy as well. I have some red cedar and black walnut quarter sawn x 8-10". Think I'll try this way on a few compared to making a oil/beeswax mix. Thanks for the tip I'll definitely mention the credit on the info!
@@xmu69 I’d really appreciate that! I think you’ll like it. I use it and then once it cures, I put a butcher block conditioner/wax on also to help bring up the shine and add a little extra protection. I’ve had awesome results with it.
“Raising the grain”…