old comment but meh, have tried both. Hayes are more powerful, but I like the thicker discs and care-free nature of the TRPs. Both are good. If they are the same price at your lbs I'd probably choose the Hayes, in my case, I found the TRPs on sale and I bought them instead, the performance difference wasn't enough to justify the price.
The maintenance-free part is so accurate. A friend has Sram Guide R brakes on his bike, for some reason his pistons don't retract as easily, it took a lot of mechanic leverage to reset them and put some new pads in and the levers feel mushy. The pistons on my TRP DHR Evo's caliper feel buttery smooth and can be pushed back with one hand and little force, which gives that direct feel at the lever. I wouldn't say they are the most powerful, Trickstuff, Maven and Saint brakes are more powerful (marginally though, I'd say 5-10%), but these are powerful enough to never have to think about them, like Shimano XT and come with none of the Shimano XT problems, like broken ceramic pistons, broken lever pistons or a wandering bite point. You pretty much install them and forget about them until you have to change pads. For all mineral oil it's recommended to change the fluid yearly to prevent seal degradation, you'll have to set a reminder though, because they don't feel any different over time and will probably feel the same after a year of use.
I've also been running these for a year and a half and love them. Tried all the others and always come back to these. Changed out the levers for the freedom-coast levers and they are so good. It puts the lever very close to the bar so my hand pump is nil. Good video.
I came to the Trps which came stock on my Sentinel last summer, from Saints and they are just as powerful. Your review is very reassuring and I agree with your impressions. Kudos
I got the stock Shimano XT M8100 setup with the four pot calipers, icetech rotor and pads. I expected more at this pricepoint to be honest, and for me it is about the bitepoint as well as the power. I can stop with one finger, so there's no danger, I just would like more performance. Both the contact point screw and freestroke is at max on both sides, and I wish I could have them more in the middle. I will be trying new pads and rotors for next season and do a full service as well, and I feel that organic pads may be the way to go. I'm a bit tired of waiting for pads/rotors to heat up before they start working. I'll see how organic pads feel in rain and mud though, so I will be keeping the stock setup just in case(even though they squeal like a ¤%&##)
I run the Hayes Dominions which has an even lighter lever feel and are slightly more powerful (from my experience as well as from EnduroMags tests). I really did like the TRPs (probably my equal 2nd favourite brake tied with the Hope Tech 4 V4s) but I like to run my levers closer to the bar and have medium sized hands and as such, as you wind the throw in too much it induced too much dead stroke. A couple mates who had this issue ended up getting the Freedom Coast levers which are brilliant. The Hayes on the other hand has less dead stroke induced from lever reach adjust (and work well with my medium sized mitts, even without using their short finger lever option).
Hi Brian, great video! Have u ever tried formula brakes ( 2 or 4 pistons cura brakes)? In my opinion they are awesome. Would be good content to compare those with these TRP's and maybe Hayes dominions and the new Hope tech4. Cheers and keep up the content!
I would also like this review… there really isn’t any review on this subject. We can all agree that these newer brakes like hayes and trp outperform the bigger brands… but we all want to know how they compare against each other. TRP dhr evo VS Hayes Domimion VS Formula cura 4 VS hope 4 VS magura
I’d love to find out too but not too motivated to try out other options as I’m super happy with the trps. If someone wants to buy me a bunch of brakes I’m all for it haha
Is the black cover plate metal? or plastic like the cheaper model? A local rider scraped the lever horribly. A thing I dislike with TRP brakes is can't get spares and keep spares on hand. Nice to have spare seals, or rings, pistons, and be able to get internals if they fail.
Next bike will be trps. Real quick, geometron bikes - do you think it’s suitable for shorter rider? Been eyeing for a geometron since it came out. I have g160 whyte 2016 mode. I like the longer top tube and chain stay on this Whyte.
Have had the DHR EVOs on 4 different bikes in 3 years. Excellent brakes and have never experienced any bleeder leak issues or anything like that. Never have to work on them except pad changes and a once per year bleed.
far from a racer but first bleed since I bought them last summer lol. these brakes are bonkers, don't sleep on them. Plenty of 1000m + descent in BC and they never been close to flinch
I love your reviews man, very unbiased and analytical! I've been thinking about buying TRPs for a while now - but they just were so expensive! This long-term review totally convinced me and i bought myself a pair yesterday :) keep up the stoke!
I cannot believe how bad Shimano Xt brakes bite point issue is. Horrible, horrible horrible. What's worse is there's no straight answer on a solution or even a cause. Some say it's the lever, the unusable bite point adjust, some say it's the caliper yet it only seems to happen on the rear pointing to the cable length. Solutions? Several. None are 100%. Effectively there's yet to be a guaranteed, do this and it's fixed yet people pay hundreds for brakes and media keep pushing their brakes downplaying the issue. This should not be an issue on a brake of this caliber.
If he hasn't tried Hayes Dominion, he doesn't really know. Plus what manufacturer would recommend organic pads over sintered (esp. in the wet)? Sintered is way better in the wet and longer lasting and more power. Hayes Dominion A4 with MTX Racing gold or red ceramic pads with 203mm f+r rotors is the sickest combo, excellent modulation and power, that's what I typically use. Much less maintenance required with Hayes vs Codes.
I'd be really interested to hear your rankings of the most popular brakes, in order (or, like, by some sort of numerical ranking). Would love to know how you think, e.g. Maguras stack up to Hayes and TRP
I bought my Pivot with a set of DHR Evo about a year ago. How do they feel ? Very very powerful with Shimano 203 mm rotors and metallic pads. The lever feeling is consistent and I've never had to pull them to the maximum until hitting the handlebar grip. However, I'm a bit disappointed by the absence of bite-point screw. After a year, the rear brake reach has increased to much for my liking. This may come from the fact that the hose is longer than the front one. I think I need to bleed them soon, replacing the rear rotor by a genuine TRP 2.3 mm thick. I will definitely keep the metallic pads, never failing on long descents, making you feel super secure.
Have you tried Hayes Dominions A4? Little bit more maintenance, very linear modulation, excellent power. We are currently testing the TRPs, I am running the Maxima now but the bite point is a bit soft…
I tried the MTX metallic pads & they squealed like a banshee in the slightest damp conditions. Tried everything re prepping disks etc but to no avail Binned them after a dozen rides as they just ruined my rides.
If you ever have to swap rotors and pads (or want to for testing) I'd love to hear your thoughts on Galfer rotors and pads, (if they work with TRPs) as they are one of the brake parts I hear the most about that people praise and claim makes their Code RCS and anything else feel way better
Wack, I was just checking for anything new on Cascade components and I just noticed they have an aftermarket caliper now that works for both TRP and Shimano called the SLAB, they claim it grants 13% more power.
Had a piston fail on the rear calliper last week. Bleed process is easy but they make too much noise with even the slightest contamination. Glad you are getting on well with them.
@@totalglitch Nah, I wasn't too impressed with the support from TRP (UK) when I had issues before so didn't bother this time. When they work, they are great but for me at least, they need a bit too much very regular TLC :)
Hi Brian i have question for you. Recently i bought my dream bike Norco Optic. Bike has TRP slate evo brakes but i noticed after long downhill ride brakes started to faded. Do you think uprage to DH-R will be noticable? And one question, can more powerful brakes damage my front fork in time? I have Rock Shox Pike Select 140mm. Thanks for your answer.
Can you please comment on your experience with the MTX pads vs the stock TRP performance resin pads? I just got brand new DHR EVOS with the TRP 203mm rotors. I put in new MTX red labels and they make a lot of noise, dry or wet. Can you tell me a little bit about your experience with each? Thanks
Maybe the mtx pads were a bit more noisy? I don’t remember having a huge problem with that though. The organic seemed to be very quite and had great performance just wore out quickly
I’ve been on TRP’s Q2.3’s for about the same amount of time and I have to agree with everything you’ve said. One issue I’ve had was the lever position adjusting screw was stuck, had to take the knob off and break it loose with a flathead screwdriver but other than that they have been flawless
Hi, thanks for your video, do you think I would like the power modulation of the Trp’s if i like the power modulation of my codes ? I like sram power modulation but bleeding them every 1/2 months and maybe looking for more power but not really necessary… Good ride, bye
Yeah moving to TRP from my codes was an easy adjustment. Different lever feel but I feel like it’s a similar amount of modulation just more power when it really counts.
nice review, have you seen the Lewis Brakes floating around, have a very trickstuff CNC'd look and claim to be all their own product and engineering etc but ive seen people call them chinese copies that arent worth looking at. Recently seeing more people say they are actually a legitimate brake. Curious if you have any desire to maybe try these out, im sure you'd be able to get sent a pair. One of the few people id actually trust reviewing them.
I am getting ready to install these brakes on my Nomad and was wondering your opinion about the stock resin pads. Do you have any problems with the pads over heating or brake fade on steep DH? Just trying to decide on what pads to run from the start on the new rotors. Either resin or semi-metallic?
I rode a pair on my Raaw Madonna V2.2 for a year. I also liked the power and heat capacity which is important to me because I'm a bit of a bigger rider. What I didn't like was the ergonomics of the lever ant the, for me, lack of adjustability. I switched to Hope Tech4 V4.
The only thing i chnged are the levers. Hope they make their own short levers. But performance wise, they give me so much confidence before cornering on downhills, very powerful and less maintenance brakes. Do you recommend mtx pads on front and rear or just the front?
I guess that it depends on where you live, in America it is very hard to get Hope rotors ( not the floating ones), and in order to get the most out of the Tech 4 V4 you need either the heavy duty or the vented ones and those are not sold anywhere in America.....
I'm using the same DHR EVOs with Freedom Coast levers, TRP 223 front and 203 rear with MTX Gold pads, on a Turbo Levo. On my Dreadnought i'm using Shimano Saints with TRP 1.8mm thick 203mm rotors front and back with the same MTX Gold pads. My weight with gear is ~200 lbs. I agree with pretty much everything you said about the EVOs. But the Saints bite harder, no doubt about it. But the EVOs have much better modulation. During all day downhill trips, I find my brake hand/arm muscles fatiguing faster and slightly prefering the Saints over the EVOs becasuse I can adjust to the lack of modulation. I heard Richie Rude's setup with XTR levers and Saint calipers offer just as much Saint stock bite but with better modulation.
So much nonsense... You don't necessarily have to bleed your brakes to feel again "on point", most of the time you just have to reset your pistons (check how pistons work). Takes 5 mins. I only bleed my Codes once per year (and barely get any air bubbles out). But I reset the pistons 5-6 times per year, as the pads wear out.
Terrible brakes, mine came with leaky pistons from the factory and then they warrantied me with another leaky caliper from the factory. For something i trust my life with i will never use them again. I also see these brakes leak a lot when customers bring them into my shop. For almost $800 for the set with tax it's unbelievable.
Ah wait! I just got a set for a bike and am having the same issue. Silver? After 3-4 lever pulls the back of the pads have an imprint of the piston with oil. Ruined 6 pads in 3 days
@@moritzaufenanger2537 I had the gold dhr evos, went through $200 in brake pads. TRP does not have any sort of quality control, clean them up and sell them asap!
I went forr Formula CUra 4 as I can fully rebuild them with all spare parts. But lever has plastic bushing which wears in few hundred kms, but I have RG Bikecomponents lever, which has bearings. I recently rebuilt the front brake, as it had issues, with leaks, taking in air, O ring at the bleed port failed. Replaced the piston seals too. Replaced the pads too. But rear I just bled and replaced the bleed screw as o ring was worn there too, now brake is firm.
@@mtbboy1993 sounds like a lot of work for some brakes, sram and hayes you just need to bleed and clean the pistons twice a year and replace the lever bearings every 1-2 years.
@@henrylarson8271 you don't have to do it all the time, but seals can get damaged or worn out, so I will always opt for something I can easily replace myself. Rear felt great, only needed one O ring and proper bleed. But the pads were quite worn. so I replaced them. I probably had few weeks or a month or two left on them. Pistons randomly got stuck and unstuck, so had to be solved. lubing worked, for a while, but I wiped it clean, but squeezing lever resulted in wet pads, so clearly had a small leak. Seals looked fine, no tears, but they were deformed, i assume that's what caused the pistons getting stuck.I did not do it on the rear as it works. Maybe seals were faulty, who knows, but worked well new, and works like new now. The seals have square edges, flush hole. But old ones got tapered. I put the brakes trough hell I guess. winter, summer, winter. front brake had faulty O ring I guess as it wore out after one bleed. rear was half as bad, but bad. but that was after many bleeds.
![It’s Awkward, but the “Torso+2Tire” Technique Guarantees You Gap Jumps [Without Crashing] - 4K](/img/n.gif)
If you get a chance to try Hayes Dominions it would be great to hear how you think they compare to the TRPs.
old comment but meh, have tried both. Hayes are more powerful, but I like the thicker discs and care-free nature of the TRPs. Both are good. If they are the same price at your lbs I'd probably choose the Hayes, in my case, I found the TRPs on sale and I bought them instead, the performance difference wasn't enough to justify the price.
thanks, man! there is not that many reviews of these brakes but they all kinda confirm that these are great brakes!
The maintenance-free part is so accurate. A friend has Sram Guide R brakes on his bike, for some reason his pistons don't retract as easily, it took a lot of mechanic leverage to reset them and put some new pads in and the levers feel mushy. The pistons on my TRP DHR Evo's caliper feel buttery smooth and can be pushed back with one hand and little force, which gives that direct feel at the lever.
I wouldn't say they are the most powerful, Trickstuff, Maven and Saint brakes are more powerful (marginally though, I'd say 5-10%), but these are powerful enough to never have to think about them, like Shimano XT and come with none of the Shimano XT problems, like broken ceramic pistons, broken lever pistons or a wandering bite point. You pretty much install them and forget about them until you have to change pads.
For all mineral oil it's recommended to change the fluid yearly to prevent seal degradation, you'll have to set a reminder though, because they don't feel any different over time and will probably feel the same after a year of use.
I've also been running these for a year and a half and love them. Tried all the others and always come back to these. Changed out the levers for the freedom-coast levers and they are so good. It puts the lever very close to the bar so my hand pump is nil. Good video.
Have you tried the XTR lever / saint caliper combo?
I came to the Trps which came stock on my Sentinel last summer, from Saints and they are just as powerful. Your review is very reassuring and I agree with your impressions. Kudos
I got the stock Shimano XT M8100 setup with the four pot calipers, icetech rotor and pads. I expected more at this pricepoint to be honest, and for me it is about the bitepoint as well as the power. I can stop with one finger, so there's no danger, I just would like more performance. Both the contact point screw and freestroke is at max on both sides, and I wish I could have them more in the middle.
I will be trying new pads and rotors for next season and do a full service as well, and I feel that organic pads may be the way to go. I'm a bit tired of waiting for pads/rotors to heat up before they start working. I'll see how organic pads feel in rain and mud though, so I will be keeping the stock setup just in case(even though they squeal like a ¤%&##)
Thanks Nice video.
Another comparison vs the Dominion, Magura, XTR and Saint would be nice ;)
I run the Hayes Dominions which has an even lighter lever feel and are slightly more powerful (from my experience as well as from EnduroMags tests). I really did like the TRPs (probably my equal 2nd favourite brake tied with the Hope Tech 4 V4s) but I like to run my levers closer to the bar and have medium sized hands and as such, as you wind the throw in too much it induced too much dead stroke. A couple mates who had this issue ended up getting the Freedom Coast levers which are brilliant. The Hayes on the other hand has less dead stroke induced from lever reach adjust (and work well with my medium sized mitts, even without using their short finger lever option).
Hi Brian, great video! Have u ever tried formula brakes ( 2 or 4 pistons cura brakes)? In my opinion they are awesome. Would be good content to compare those with these TRP's and maybe Hayes dominions and the new Hope tech4.
Cheers and keep up the content!
I would also like this review… there really isn’t any review on this subject.
We can all agree that these newer brakes like hayes and trp outperform the bigger brands… but we all want to know how they compare against each other. TRP dhr evo VS Hayes Domimion VS Formula cura 4 VS hope 4 VS magura
I’d love to find out too but not too motivated to try out other options as I’m super happy with the trps. If someone wants to buy me a bunch of brakes I’m all for it haha
Is the black cover plate metal? or plastic like the cheaper model? A local rider scraped the lever horribly. A thing I dislike with TRP brakes is can't get spares and keep spares on hand. Nice to have spare seals, or rings, pistons, and be able to get internals if they fail.
For those questioning Hayes dominion vs these- check out talaria boys’ review. They cover both in depth comparison.
Next bike will be trps.
Real quick, geometron bikes - do you think it’s suitable for shorter rider? Been eyeing for a geometron since it came out. I have g160 whyte 2016 mode. I like the longer top tube and chain stay on this Whyte.
Have had the DHR EVOs on 4 different bikes in 3 years. Excellent brakes and have never experienced any bleeder leak issues or anything like that. Never have to work on them except pad changes and a once per year bleed.
What mineral oil do you use ? The TRP oil or shimano ?
@@justing6614always use TRP oil, the Shimano degrades quicker and turns black in a few months.
Do you ever feel like you can't get the exact same bite point on both front and rear because there's no contact adjuster?
far from a racer but first bleed since I bought them last summer lol. these brakes are bonkers, don't sleep on them. Plenty of 1000m + descent in BC and they never been close to flinch
Love my TRP brakes. Only have the Slate EVO 4-piston on my trail bike, but they’re powerful enough.
bro if all you say is positive then you are just full of snake oil. give us a balanced review
Really appreciate his feedback, tired of wrestling my rsc codes, Need something that’ll handle steeps consistently
Did you ever ride Hayes Dominions?
Looks like u could trim those hoops
is it easy to swap right and left brakes around? to go from non moto to moto. Or do you have to cut and get new olives etc?
I'm not sure. I think you can just swap lines without doing a new board and olive. Maybe have to do a quick lever bleed.
I love your reviews man, very unbiased and analytical! I've been thinking about buying TRPs for a while now - but they just were so expensive! This long-term review totally convinced me and i bought myself a pair yesterday :) keep up the stoke!
Where I'm located in Canada they are exactly the same price as a set of code rsc, thing is the codes are always on sale 😂
I cannot believe how bad Shimano Xt brakes bite point issue is. Horrible, horrible horrible.
What's worse is there's no straight answer on a solution or even a cause.
Some say it's the lever, the unusable bite point adjust, some say it's the caliper yet it only seems to happen on the rear pointing to the cable length.
Solutions? Several. None are 100%.
Effectively there's yet to be a guaranteed, do this and it's fixed yet people pay hundreds for brakes and media keep pushing their brakes downplaying the issue.
This should not be an issue on a brake of this caliber.
If he hasn't tried Hayes Dominion, he doesn't really know. Plus what manufacturer would recommend organic pads over sintered (esp. in the wet)? Sintered is way better in the wet and longer lasting and more power. Hayes Dominion A4 with MTX Racing gold or red ceramic pads with 203mm f+r rotors is the sickest combo, excellent modulation and power, that's what I typically use. Much less maintenance required with Hayes vs Codes.
Lowe Branch
TRP won't sell you any seals or rebuild parts for the calipers.
Deal breaker for me.
Was thinking of getting Hayes Dominion A4s. Maybe these would be better. Power matters a lot for ebikes.
I'd be really interested to hear your rankings of the most popular brakes, in order (or, like, by some sort of numerical ranking). Would love to know how you think, e.g. Maguras stack up to Hayes and TRP
i hate them, not powerful enough to me. my codes were better
lol
I bought my Pivot with a set of DHR Evo about a year ago. How do they feel ? Very very powerful with Shimano 203 mm rotors and metallic pads. The lever feeling is consistent and I've never had to pull them to the maximum until hitting the handlebar grip. However, I'm a bit disappointed by the absence of bite-point screw. After a year, the rear brake reach has increased to much for my liking. This may come from the fact that the hose is longer than the front one. I think I need to bleed them soon, replacing the rear rotor by a genuine TRP 2.3 mm thick. I will definitely keep the metallic pads, never failing on long descents, making you feel super secure.
Veum Shore
Have you tried Hayes Dominions A4? Little bit more maintenance, very linear modulation, excellent power. We are currently testing the TRPs, I am running the Maxima now but the bite point is a bit soft…
Hi everyone, IMO and experience the best brake for enduro discipline is Shigura.
MT7+Saint levers. I have every thing I need on it.
I tried the MTX metallic pads & they squealed like a banshee in the slightest damp conditions. Tried everything re prepping disks etc but to no avail Binned them after a dozen rides as they just ruined my rides.
31223 Rogahn Village
hmm, they sound a lot like my Dominion A4s set and forget, light lever pull, short throw, good mudulation and a lot of power.
Love these brakes, super powerful, but the resin pads feel quite grabby/inconsistent bite at very low speeds. Not sure if that's usual?
If you ever have to swap rotors and pads (or want to for testing) I'd love to hear your thoughts on Galfer rotors and pads, (if they work with TRPs) as they are one of the brake parts I hear the most about that people praise and claim makes their Code RCS and anything else feel way better
Curious about galfer as well. I’ve got a bit of a stock pile of pads and rotors to burn through but when I do I’d be interested in giving them a try
Wack, I was just checking for anything new on Cascade components and I just noticed they have an aftermarket caliper now that works for both TRP and Shimano called the SLAB, they claim it grants 13% more power.
Had a piston fail on the rear calliper last week. Bleed process is easy but they make too much noise with even the slightest contamination. Glad you are getting on well with them.
Did trp take care of you? Warranty?
@@totalglitch Nah, I wasn't too impressed with the support from TRP (UK) when I had issues before so didn't bother this time. When they work, they are great but for me at least, they need a bit too much very regular TLC :)
are there forks /frames that accept rotors bigger than 203 mm ?
Traducir
When someone rides Geometron then you know that he knows what he is talking about
Hi Brian i have question for you. Recently i bought my dream bike Norco Optic. Bike has TRP slate evo brakes but i noticed after long downhill ride brakes started to faded. Do you think uprage to DH-R will be noticable? And one question, can more powerful brakes damage my front fork in time? I have Rock Shox Pike Select 140mm. Thanks for your answer.
Haven’t ridden the slates, so not sure how they will compare. And your fork will be fine and will handle any stopping power you want to throw at it.
Can you please comment on your experience with the MTX pads vs the stock TRP performance resin pads? I just got brand new DHR EVOS with the TRP 203mm rotors. I put in new MTX red labels and they make a lot of noise, dry or wet. Can you tell me a little bit about your experience with each? Thanks
Maybe the mtx pads were a bit more noisy? I don’t remember having a huge problem with that though. The organic seemed to be very quite and had great performance just wore out quickly
I’ve been on TRP’s Q2.3’s for about the same amount of time and I have to agree with everything you’ve said.
One issue I’ve had was the lever position adjusting screw was stuck, had to take the knob off and break it loose with a flathead screwdriver but other than that they have been flawless
Emmitt Street
Hi, thanks for your video, do you think I would like the power modulation of the Trp’s if i like the power modulation of my codes ? I like sram power modulation but bleeding them every 1/2 months and maybe looking for more power but not really necessary…
Good ride, bye
Yeah moving to TRP from my codes was an easy adjustment. Different lever feel but I feel like it’s a similar amount of modulation just more power when it really counts.
Any recommendations for a TRP bleed kit?
The one from trp is the one I use. Rarely do a full bleed just use the cup most of the time
nice review, have you seen the Lewis Brakes floating around, have a very trickstuff CNC'd look and claim to be all their own product and engineering etc but ive seen people call them chinese copies that arent worth looking at.
Recently seeing more people say they are actually a legitimate brake. Curious if you have any desire to maybe try these out, im sure you'd be able to get sent a pair.
One of the few people id actually trust reviewing them.
Huh haven’t heard of them but they look interesting. Look like a Chinese copy of trick stuff at first glance but doesn’t mean they are bad.
I am getting ready to install these brakes on my Nomad and was wondering your opinion about the stock resin pads. Do you have any problems with the pads over heating or brake fade on steep DH? Just trying to decide on what pads to run from the start on the new rotors. Either resin or semi-metallic?
I’ve stuck with resign and i think that’s what most race teams are on too. Good performance in high heat, you just run through pads quicker.
I’m running the trp slate t 4 and I feel exactly the same way about them. They are amazing
I rode a pair on my Raaw Madonna V2.2 for a year. I also liked the power and heat capacity which is important to me because I'm a bit of a bigger rider. What I didn't like was the ergonomics of the lever ant the, for me, lack of adjustability. I switched to Hope Tech4 V4.
Good luck with customer service
The only thing i chnged are the levers. Hope they make their own short levers. But performance wise, they give me so much confidence before cornering on downhills, very powerful and less maintenance brakes.
Do you recommend mtx pads on front and rear or just the front?
The mtx pads I used worked good front and back.
You should try the hope tech 4 v4. There insane! Ive used magura mt7 shimanos and codes and the hopes are genuinely crazy compared to them.
I guess that it depends on where you live, in America it is very hard to get Hope rotors ( not the floating ones), and in order to get the most out of the Tech 4 V4 you need either the heavy duty or the vented ones and those are not sold anywhere in America.....
Would you recommend these over Saints?
I would yes.
anybody knows what he means with "stock bleed"? Like is the stock/standard bleed procedure inferior to some other bleed procedure?
Yeah just means I didn’t have to do any fancy stuff to make the lever feel good.
Thanks, Brian
What pads are you using on the TRP?
Organic
I'm using the same DHR EVOs with Freedom Coast levers, TRP 223 front and 203 rear with MTX Gold pads, on a Turbo Levo. On my Dreadnought i'm using Shimano Saints with TRP 1.8mm thick 203mm rotors front and back with the same MTX Gold pads. My weight with gear is ~200 lbs. I agree with pretty much everything you said about the EVOs. But the Saints bite harder, no doubt about it. But the EVOs have much better modulation. During all day downhill trips, I find my brake hand/arm muscles fatiguing faster and slightly prefering the Saints over the EVOs becasuse I can adjust to the lack of modulation. I heard Richie Rude's setup with XTR levers and Saint calipers offer just as much Saint stock bite but with better modulation.
So much nonsense... You don't necessarily have to bleed your brakes to feel again "on point", most of the time you just have to reset your pistons (check how pistons work). Takes 5 mins. I only bleed my Codes once per year (and barely get any air bubbles out). But I reset the pistons 5-6 times per year, as the pads wear out.
Terrible brakes, mine came with leaky pistons from the factory and then they warrantied me with another leaky caliper from the factory. For something i trust my life with i will never use them again. I also see these brakes leak a lot when customers bring them into my shop. For almost $800 for the set with tax it's unbelievable.
Ah wait! I just got a set for a bike and am having the same issue. Silver?
After 3-4 lever pulls the back of the pads have an imprint of the piston with oil. Ruined 6 pads in 3 days
@@moritzaufenanger2537 I had the gold dhr evos, went through $200 in brake pads. TRP does not have any sort of quality control, clean them up and sell them asap!
I went forr Formula CUra 4 as I can fully rebuild them with all spare parts. But lever has plastic bushing which wears in few hundred kms, but I have RG Bikecomponents lever, which has bearings.
I recently rebuilt the front brake, as it had issues, with leaks, taking in air, O ring at the bleed port failed. Replaced the piston seals too. Replaced the pads too. But rear I just bled and replaced the bleed screw as o ring was worn there too, now brake is firm.
@@mtbboy1993 sounds like a lot of work for some brakes, sram and hayes you just need to bleed and clean the pistons twice a year and replace the lever bearings every 1-2 years.
@@henrylarson8271 you don't have to do it all the time, but seals can get damaged or worn out, so I will always opt for something I can easily replace myself. Rear felt great, only needed one O ring and proper bleed. But the pads were quite worn. so I replaced them. I probably had few weeks or a month or two left on them. Pistons randomly got stuck and unstuck, so had to be solved. lubing worked, for a while, but I wiped it clean, but squeezing lever resulted in wet pads, so clearly had a small leak. Seals looked fine, no tears, but they were deformed, i assume that's what caused the pistons getting stuck.I did not do it on the rear as it works. Maybe seals were faulty, who knows, but worked well new, and works like new now. The seals have square edges, flush hole. But old ones got tapered. I put the brakes trough hell I guess. winter, summer, winter. front brake had faulty O ring I guess as it wore out after one bleed. rear was half as bad, but bad. but that was after many bleeds.
42927 Leola Camp
888 Bahringer Ford