⚠ Warning! ⚠ 64 - 66 Thunderbird Shift Lever Repair - A Must Do!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 มิ.ย. 2022
- If you own a 64-66 Ford Thunderbird, this is a must do fix to the shift lever, it is highly likely that the car will jump out of park into reverse at some point while the engine is running.
Welcome to Jamieson's Repair Shop!
My current retirement project is restoring a rusted out 1965 Thunderbird convertible from the inside out.
I'm taking it apart, repairing everything that needs repairing and putting it all back together.
I'm doing body work, paint removal, rust removal, metal fabrication, welding, forming, patching, and that's just the beginning!
Down the line there will be interior and engine work as well.
Come on into the shop and take a look!
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Good tip! All I need to do is buy a welder, learn to weld, and oh yes, buy a Thunderbird. Good video as usual.
Thank you Stephen...it looks like you have some things to do! 😁
Dont forget the lower column bushing and the shift bushings on the linkage. For $15 you can get the shift lever working like a new car.
I just ordered all the bushings, and went back and watched Nicks Video on installing them! Thanks for bringing this up, such an inexpensive fix...I couldn't pass on it! 🙂
1965 & 66 Lincoln also! My mom's car, popped into Rev and wiped out the whole passenger side of the car on a telephone pole! Fortunately, it missed the gas pumps at the gas station by a foot! It also ran out of a Bay at a Service Station once and rammed the trunk into a tree!! Yikes! The car STILL functioned...although it looked like a Potato Chip...and menacing!
I finally fixed the detent issue when my car tried to roll off a lift during an alignment. The tech was quick with a piece of wood behind the tire and saved the day.
If the trans has ever been out, they never seem to get all the parts back on the shift mechanism down there. A couple of washers and a wave washer will make a huge difference.
BTW, it's a lot more work but there is a plastic bushing at the base of the column that will be disintegrated. It will allow the bottom of the shift tube to move around and cause looseness between the shifter and the trans. This part is readily available and makes it feel like a modern car.
You have a beautiful car - enjoy! (I've had mine 53 years)
Thank you Scott...I agree with you on the lower shift tube bushing, I did replace it on this car.
Alvin,
Good to go, my friend. I wonder how many over the years got caught between the back bumper and a garage door, or whatever, when their T-Birds jumped out of park. Scary issue.
Regards,
John
Hi John...I can remember the news covering "Fords that jump out of park" back in the 70's. I never really understood why this happened until seeing Nicks video, and having one of my own to take apart and fix. I often wonder also...how many people were crushed because of this issue!
Great video! I traded for a 66 Q code a couple days ago, and the shifter was driving me crazy. thanks a ton, and i will be doing this today!
Your welcome, it's a must do on these old ford! Have fun with the 66 T-bird!
⚠️ATTENTION⚠️ Great video! Thank you for your help, however the correct punch pin Size is 3/16" or 4.8mm. ... 5/32" is too small and will just dig into the pin. Thanks again!
I've been wanting to see this
Thank you for the video. Awesome😎🤙
You're welcome, and thank you!
Great car!
Thank you!
Nicely done my friend. Thats a theoretical lifesaver !!
Thank you Ron! 😊
Great tip and video 👍 love following your progress! Best to you and yours
Thank you! 😊
Interesting repair Alvin - thanks for sharing 👏✌
Thank you Jerry...some old school Ford issues that have been long forgotten about.
Excellent info to know. I knew there was a problem with slipping into gear but had no idea it was that simple to fix. Thanks so much for this video.
You're welcome...yes, an easy fix for sure! 🙂
Wow good to know! I wasn’t aware of this issue, so I’ll have to address it on my son’s ‘65. Thank you
Hi Troy...I had it happen to me, luck enough I had the wheels chocked and nothing bad happened.
Hello Alvin. Thanks for reminding us about this issue. This is too important to not do. I watched Nick do his some time ago. Very good video! Thanks again!
George B. in Michigan
Hi George...I wasn't going to do a video on this at first, then I figured that would irresponsible of me to not share this important safety issue with these cars.
Hey Alvin, nice video. I do it a little differently, I hit the steering column, fingers and knuckles with hammer most of the time. Dont forget to lube the slide mechanism. I can see its a little stiff. Thanks.
That's funny Nick! I will be lubing the slide when I work on the column, I ordered a new lower bushing, and will redo the linkage bushings like you showed in your shift linkage rebuild video. 🙂
They sent me a sticker to place on the shiftr warning. That was fords fix 😊 ..i warn everyone on theese videos. Have unres firemist conv last run 78. A repo part is available around 100$
I can remember when Ford was on the hot seat for this issue...I didn't know that the fix was a sticker! Lol
Thank you for sharing that bit of history on these old cars. 😎
I also saw Nick's video and decided to go all-in last year to resolve that issue. The detent in mine was well worn in addition to the shift lever, and the bushings were all original. I told myself there was no way he would get that shifter lined up perfectly on the first try before that roll pin goes back in.
No...it took a couple of tries. Lol
An absolutely necessary repair. Mine ran over my girlfriend about 40 years ago.
Sorry to hear about the run away, and your girlfriend...such a dangerous flaw on Ford's behalf.
The shifter is a item on my to do list that I have been procrastinating on. I know it is a safety Item. I don't know why I keep putting it off. It is the least difficult task to be done on our 64 T-bird. But after three years of work, I am at the end of my to do items. So watching your video reminded me to get out in our shop and just do it.
I started do them the day my convertible jumped into reverse just from the engine vibration...lucky enough, I had blocked the wheels, so nothing happened!
I have a '64 Galaxie with swingaway. Happy to see that I should be able to do the same vs taking the whole thing apart to do it like i see in all the other videos. Which the other videos are all Tbird also. Tends to be most of the fords do this regardless of model. '63/64 Galaxies had the swingaway option for an additional $50 and you gave up the floor shift in order to have it. I look at every galaxie I see and only seen 4 or 5 and I have looked at a LOT of galaxie, it's an addiction. I did the same for a bit on the Tbirds looking for hydraulic windshield wipers that my dad had told me a story of. He needed one for his '63 Tbird and the junkyards all thought he was nuts til he went out and found one himself on one of the cars they had. I did finally see what they look like. I had no idea they had that.
Yes, the floor shifter is a rare thing to find in those cars!
The good old Hydra-Whip wiper motor, not likely to find those at your local Autoparts store. Lol
Yes, it's important to replace or repair the shift lever if it has this problem, and they WILL have this problem. The problem is these cars can easily slip out of park into reverse - very, VERY dangerous.
I replaced mine (1966) with a brand new, OEM style shift lever when I first bought my '66 as it most definitely had this issue!! The roll pin is pretty easy to get out. Just have some patience, and use the right size "tool" to push it out as you're tapping it what a hammer 🔨.
At least the lever wears out and not the internal channels that the lever engages. Thnx for posting this for folks who may not be aware !! You may have saved a few garage doors or even someone's life.
Thank you Anthony, it is a problem for sure!
@@J_R_Shop Hello and great vid. Thinking back to when I replaced mine (I do almost everything but welding), I seem to recall that I moved the shifter way to the right (1st gear I think), Doing that enables you to hammer downward as opposed to hammering upward, which may be awkward for some.
Good to know this since I am going to look at a 65 Tbird this weekend. Also what else should I be looking for? It is sapose to be a turn key driver and if it is what I am wanting to buy I will be driving it home.
I mentioned a few issues in your other comment...but look out for things that have been modified, swapped out with non original parts, like different engines, and transmissions, Exhausts systems are expensive for these cars, so having good pipes are worth looking out for.
do you have to put the shift lever into reverse removing it and reinstalling the shift lever? WHAT AN AWESOME VIDEO! Thank you for doing these videotaped repairs and posting on youtube! Can you explain to me how you reinstalled it to align? i don't believe I saw that part? looking at the shift lever on my 66 tbird it is not exactly aligning in park, is that a worn shift lever? Also I don't have any brakes on 66 tbird pushing into garage. Would you be willing to do a front brake pad and rotor replacement and the rear drum shoe replacement video and bleeding brakes and differential fluid change as well? That would help me a lot! As For the clicking sounds is it true that the solenoid is seized and needs a hammer tap? THANK YOU!
Hi Laszlo, you just wiggle it back in, and use the punch to realign the holes...it doesn't matter what gear it is in, just remember to chock your wheels, so the car doesn't coast away on you.
I am heading out of town in a week, and don't have time to do a brake video...there are many, many videos available on brake bleeding, and changing rotors. I point you a channel called "joernone", John isn't making videos any more...but he did do some videos on brakes for his 66 T-Bird, it would be helpful for you to check out John's channel.
Sometimes tapping the starter will work...but not a "for sure" fix, if the solenoid is clicking, it isn't seized. When starting these old cars up for the first time in years, it take a little work getting the bugs out of the system, make sure you are using a good battery, if the engine is stuck, don't try to free it by using the starter, that could just cause more damage.
Good luck with getting her going....this stuff is the fun stuff! lol
The slide away steering column was first offered in the '61 bird and in '62 it became standard equipment. Not sure when they stopped offering it. Most of this wear comes from forcing the steering wheel without gently raising the shift lever and sliding the column to the right at the same time.
Thank you for the info!
What is the purpose of the slide steering wheel
@@NotYourFinancialAdvisor777 It was mostly a sales gimmick but supposedly was for easier entrance and exit of the car.
Not true the wear comes from the shift detent plate that the shift lever slides against shifting from park to reverse and drive over time I have worked on restoring these cars over 30 years. Thunderbird garage Lincoln Nebraska
That was a fatal flaw on those T Birds that should have resulted in a major recall! Not only would they suddenly pop into reverse while at a fast idle but the auto release emergency brake would pop off at the same time! I once watched a T Bird take off backwards out of an alignment rack and smash into a building! By pure luck nobody was hurt or killed!
Yes...Ford had the perfect set up for disaster built right into the car, and if for some reason you didn't slide the wheel to the right, you have an accident waiting to happen. 🥺
@@J_R_Shop A person shouldn’t HAVE to,slide the wheel to the right! We know that now but not then. Those really weren’t good cars! Vacuum hoses everywhere and poor workmanship. Still I liked them especially the 1965’s. Ever replace front control arm shafts on one? Talk about a miserable,dangerous job! The Buick Rivieras of that era were a much better car!
Hi Alvin, What roller pin size did you finally use to hammer out the shift lever at the beginning? And how can you tell where to get access to removing the gear lever shifter? Is there a hole that is right there near the shifter you insert the roller pin to be able to remove? Also I did look at carburetor and it doesn't look gummed up on my 66 tbird. The gas tank just smells like strong odor of gas. not sure what wood varnish smells like. I'll see next time if the gas gauge reads. Original AM/Fm radio works! Horn, Power Windows, and Heater/ AC fan don't work. Electric antenna doesn't work either. Is that a blown fuse? What size Spark plug socket did you use to remove spark plugs? it's very difficult to get to my spark plugs because of stupid Calif smog equipment and the tons of hoses for vacuum cruise control. Many THANKS! 😀🙂
Hi Laszlo, I believe I used a 5/32 roll pin punch, there are holes on both top and bottom of the roll pin.
There are many things that could cause electrical components not to work, and could be as simple as a fuse, but when a car sits for many years, it could be anything.
I believe the plugs are 13/16, it is a tight area to work, I took the cruise control unit off the apron to get at the driver's side plugs, and you may even have to remove the shock tower brace... because there is very little room to work between the brace and master cylinder, the brace is easy to remove, and allows you more room to work.
Question, forgot to ask on previous comment! So when you put the shifter end back in, does it just go right into place? There's nothing that it has to go under or anything like that. I have in mind as example, a fuel pump arm having to go under the cam thing.
Hi Deb, it does go right back into where it needs to be, depending, the only resistance is the rubber on the lever, you may need to work it into place to seat that rubber.
I took the roller pin out but I'm having a hard time getting the shift lever out. Do you need a shake it quite a bit to get it to come out. I also have the car in park while doing this. Thank you for your time.
Hi Josh, make sure you have the wheels chocked so the car can't move, because yes, you will have to work the lever quite a bit to get it out, and you most likely will have to take it out of park.
It sounds like the rubber is good and tight, but it will come out, the pin is the only thing that holds the lever in place.
Ok thank you.
Was any of the trim hard or tricky to get out or was it all just screwed in? Were your tack strips reusable? Thanks for the video.
Hi Michael...the trim was easy to remove, the only piece that gave a little fight was the rear package tray, it needs a good firm pull to get it off. The package tray sides come off easily after the center piece is out...the trim on these side pieces come off with a trim removal tool, don't try to pull off the trim on the center piece of the package tray, you will damage it...it has different mounting clips that need to be turned to release.
Hello. First thank you for posting this. We recently acquired a 62 T. We were unaware of this issue. We found out about it as ours was not easy to swing the wheel aside. Then we realized how it would not start unless we pushed the gear shift all the way to the left. And when it did it would jump back. Luckily we were taught a long time ago to step on the brake as you start. Anyway, we bought a new gear shift lever and did what you did here. It didn't help. :(
Would you have any idea if we did it wrong or it it's a different issue? Thanks.
You're welcome, and thank you for watching!
The first thing is to confirm if the lower shift tube bushing is in good condition, if it's worn out or missing, it will be very difficult to get the wheel to slide, and start the car without pulling up on the shift lever.
After the shift tube bushing is confirmed to be good, you can adjust the neutral safety switch on the column underneath the dash, its an easy adjustment to make.
There is also another adjustment underneath the dash that allows the column to slide when in park, it is found on the column, just up the column from the neutral safety switch. Both the slide lock adjustment, and the neutral safety switch screws are 5/16 head.
When these cars are in park, starting and sliding the column should not require you to do any pulling on the shift lever, but it all hinges on that lower shift tube bushing...it has to be in good condition, after that you should consider rebuilding the shift linkage between the transmission and the column...but start with the easy stuff.
FYI...the factory pull effort to slide the column from side to side is 10lbs.
@@J_R_Shop I'm sorry for the delayed reply. Thank you very much!! Haven't had time to check it out but I will.
hi Alvin, what do you mean by chalk the wheels?
Hi Nisha...I'm sorry I didn't show what I was referring to, that's my bad. If you look up "Wheel chock", I think you will quickly understand what I was saying...my east coast accent sometimes makes the words sound different. 😜
Even if you don't have a set of "Wheel chocks", you can block the wheels with a piece of 4x4, and that is my go to "Wheel chock" for these smaller wheels, just a piece of 4x4, about foot long.
Thank you for asking...I bet you weren't the only person wondering what the heck I was talking about.
Thanks for the video. I've been hammering on that pin for an hour now (hit my fingers plenty times) but it won't budge... Any idea how to loosen it?
Sorry, other than some penetrating fluid, not WD-40, something that actually works like PB or Deep Creep, I really don't know what to tell you.
@@J_R_Shop thanks I'll give this a try
@@ngamac are you using a flat face punch, a pointed punch will spread the roller pin, making it impossible to get the pin out. Also try holding the punch with a pair of vice grips, then you won't hit your hand with the hammer.
@@J_R_Shop Thanks for the tips!
I know its a year later but a 2x4 cut to length and placed between the floor and the part you're hammering on works great.
My 64 T-Bird, had the same issue. I put a new shifter in it but it still has issues. I have to pull up on shifter to get it to start. It still does not click into drive position. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Is the lower shift tube bushing in good condition?
These cars almost always need that bushing replaced...once you have the lower shift tube bushing issue fixed, then there are adjustments that can be made at the neutral safety switch, if all is in good condition, and adjusted properly, there is no need to pull up in the shifter to start the car.
@@J_R_Shop thank you. I wish I was closer so you could fix it for me. Then I know it would be done right.
How often will I need to do this. Lol
I really don't know, I will be checking my own every couple of years.
You skipped the part of re-inserting the lever into the column. Is there anything to watch out for, or does it simply slide back into the correct position?
Sorry about that, I cut it out because a giant ass truck with no mufflers went by...but yes, it just goes back in with a little wiggling until the holes align. You may have to pull it out of park at this point, so if you're on a hill, be ready with the brakes or wheel chocks.
I am trying to install a new lever and I cannot get it in. Just seems too tight, Is there some kind of trick to this?
No special truck, but you may have to try installing the lever in the neutral or drive position...make sure your wheels are chocked, so the car doesn't coast away on you. It should go in with a little wiggling, and if the rubber is new, it could take a little more effort.
@@J_R_Shop Thanks! I appreciate the advice. I was contemplating greasing the rubber part because of how tight it is. I'll try installing the lever in drive or neutral first.
@@vendelet yes, try a little lube, and out of park... remember to chock the wheel. 👍
@@J_R_Shop thank you. Any recommendation on lube. I want to make sure I use one that will not damage the rubber. Also I have all 4 wheels chocked. I am paranoid about this thing rolling.
@@vendelet I would go with vasaline, it won't hurt the rubber.
You skipped a key part and that's installing the shift lever in the proper position I wish you showed that in your video I'm having issues trying to get mine right.
Well, it only goes in one way. Sometimes you have to move it out of park, to get it to seat all the way in, that's why you always chock your wheels.
Or, if you slide the wheel over to exit the car, it will not pop out of park.
what kind of metal is the shifter?
The shifter is steel, I welded it with a MIG, 0.023 steel wire.