I've never done plumbing work before, so I copied this design to connect a PVB to a line I branched out of my house for a sprinkler system. So far it appears to be working. Thanks for making this.
Beautiful plumbing I laughed when you screwed the poly adapter in for the sprinkler guy 😉 I would unscrew that and run copper below ground to either a pvc manifold or a master valve/hydrometer setup been doing commercial irrigation for years and talk about a job lol under appreciated in the plumbing trade, but I can knock out some pipe
Hello I’m redoing my home plumbing and wondering why not put these valves inside the mechanical room instead of on the exterior do you see anything wrong with that set up? Also looking to set up a compressor on a switch hooked up to System for easy winterizing
Just saw this video while exploring . Didnt watch it cause I know how to install these but could see the finished job on the screen and was impressed ny how clean of a job you did. So just stopping in the comments to say damn good work man. Very clean
Nice installation Steven!! I'm glad the humidity dropped off over the last three days. It maybe good for your business, but it taxes the hell out of our 700 ton chillers and cooling towers at the hospital! We ran around like rats yesterday trying to keep the A/C running. Kinda wish I had the day off and was in Momma's air conditioned basement with a Michelob Ultra!!
I agree Steve the lead free brass fittings and ball valves are a pain in the ass ... need a lot more heat to get that silica hot which makes for a joint not so easynon the eye ... you can cool the fitting down slightly and hit it with some flux to clean that brownish tinge off or can flux bath it if your outside or good ventilated area
I have an old copper irrigation system. what's the best and easiest way to rise the heads to the current grass level? The current heads don't even seem to be solder on the pipe.
Finally someone who takes their work and video recording seriously! Good go to bro! Good clean work on a job well done. My only question is: Does your local code require that type of backflow preventer? Some cities require a double check valve setup so that's why I asked.
Is it ok if the water line from the backflow to the irrigation manifold is above ground? Where im planning to install mine out back my patio is cement so I'll have to run it maybe 10 feet near the foundation of the house until I get to the side of the lawn then go in ground to manifold box. Thinking PVC should be ok with unions so I'm able to unscrew should there be any issues.
andya1166 that lead free brass it does not solder like the older stuff . i guess your not out in the field working so your clewless .probley living down in mama basement
You make things look like art.... very nice install Steve. Question for u, Have you ever heard about devil horns for the torch? If so what's your input? Keep up the great work
Comfort Air Heating & Cooling LLC that might be ok for brassing silfoss but not for a soft solder torch . i believe zack talyn875 has one and uses it ask him
Hey question, the original line from the main was 1 inch, what did you increase it to? Did you increase the house side only or house and sprinkler line?
I have a cheap rain bird one that hooks into my house bibb the pop up style. The problem that I'm having is my flow rate is really low. Like 5gpm. I can't really run the system to its full potential. I can increase the psi at my regular but I'm already as the limit to where it gets unsafe for my house pex pipes and the end of the line fixture. I see my main line is about 2 inches and then it breaks down into 1inch that had a T for my fire sprinkle and house lines like kitchen and bathrooms. I can see my front and back house Bibbs are about 1/2inch. I feel like i need to recipe those lines to a thicket size like 3/4 or even an 1inch to have better and more flow. My bsmt is unfinished so a repipe wouldn't be too bad. In a perfect world i know i should be catching my water from the main service line before it comes to the house but i would assume that would be pretty expensive to go a full multi zone system
Do you need a license for that in denver.. im starting to do an irrigation buisness in denver and im license in houston and we use nothing but pvc down here to tap in the meter..
Nice work. I guess you had your coffee before you started. Where do you get the hanger that you used on the irrigation side of the vac breaker? I keep looking for those but can't find them out west in Portland. Do you test you're own devices or do you have to test back flow devices out there?
Woah steves worth triple the money with super speed soldering! Really stupid question I have to ask... What difference is the 1-1/4" going to make if the line coming to the house from the street is 1" anyway?
Truckguy900 Truckguy900 size of water main does not come into affect when sizing {water main piping in house }. your right a bigger water main come in would be better .
Hi Steve, I like your videos and had 2 questions how do you calculate the load when adding a new sprinkler line? Also do you use a damp or dry rag to clean after soldering? Thank you!
I have a serious problem, when I turn on the water in my house, sink, shower, flush toilet, ect, the water pressure drops very low and pipes in my basement starts making very loud banging noises. Do you have any idea what the problem is?
Sachi WI you have to side the house piping for fixture unit load the water service would be better if it was 1" but thats not reallity .beleive me there is plenty flow of water on street side of meter ,,,
steven lavimoniere I'm sure there is most people water really early in the morning - I was just checking to see if I was right - it was more a question than a statement :o)
probley went through a freeze did you winterize it last year ??? you might be able to get a rebuild kit for it and fix it .get the modle and serial number and get a rebuild kit for it .you have to blow them out with compressed air for winter months all zones should be done that way to prevent freeze ups and problems
steve if you keep working at that pace , you can do all the plumbing jobs in the entire state of Massachusetts,,,,,, slow it down save some work for the other guys
why switch to 1.25 for that little bit. its only 1'" feeding the house. then you went back to 3/4" for the irrigation? why not just tap into the original 1" pipe with a 1" tee and go from there. alot of extra added that does nothing to better the flow. you actually decreased the flow and made it louder when the irrigation is running by going smaller. why not use pex. faster, less bends, sweats less and quieter.
I know what you mean, most all guys uSE that cheap utility black pipe, its very thin wall and not meant to be buried, they should be using the red strip well line, but they don't unless you boot there ass and make them take out what they started installing, when I was heavy into landscaping, I would sub that part of the job to the guys that do that day in and day out, I told them no black utility pipe, use the red strip well pipe, I went to check on my guys and they were there doing the install, lucky they were Only 1/3rd wit the pipe in, I made them rip it out, and use what I told them to use, that utility pipe just from ground shitting it kinks and cracks, you don't want PVC HERE WITH OUR -40 TO -50 WINTERS, IT BRAKES UP WITH GROUND SHIFT AT -40. HE HAS ME PUZZED TOO WHY HE WENT TO 1-1/4 COPPER UP FROM 1 INCH. WHEN THE SUPPLY TO THE METER COMEING UP THOUGH THE FLOOR IS ONLY 3/4 INCH, IT NOT GOING TO INCRESE THE FLOW, BUT WILL GIVE A BIT OF A HEADER FOR LITTLE STORAGE, SORT OF SAME WAY WE DO IN FLOOR HEATING, THE MAIN HEADER IS 1-1/4" THE PEX FEES TO IT IS 1 INCH PEX. AND EACH LOOP IN THE FLOOR IS 1/2 INCH PEX, JUST SO NOTHING STARVES, THAT 1/4 INCH DONT SOUND MUCH, BUT IT REALLY ADDS A LOT MORE WATER FOR THE SPLITS, SAME THING WHEN I RUFE IN A HOUSE I USE ALL 1" MAIN RUNS AND TEE OFF TO 3/4 TO EACH APLIANCE, CITY WATER IS ONLY 3/4 FEED UNLESS YOUR A COMERCAL BUILDING then your feed with 2" to 6", well feeds are 1 ' to 1-1/4. my well is all 1-1/4 right to the pt
I didn't have to google your name to know you live within 10 miles of me. (F.R.). Keep your phone handy - I may be calling you to un-f' what I'm about to try in my basement....
I've never done plumbing work before, so I copied this design to connect a PVB to a line I branched out of my house for a sprinkler system. So far it appears to be working. Thanks for making this.
Good looking joints! You make it look easy
Thanks for the video Steve. You will be saving me over $1500
Good clean job Steve, I like the way you routed all the piping.
teh60 it was a clean straight forth install
Beautiful plumbing
I laughed when you screwed the poly adapter in for the sprinkler guy 😉 I would unscrew that and run copper below ground to either a pvc manifold or a master valve/hydrometer setup
been doing commercial irrigation for years and talk about a job lol under appreciated in the plumbing trade, but I can knock out some pipe
Very nice and clean work Steve , she's good to go .
justin henning clean install
Hello I’m redoing my home plumbing and wondering why not put these valves inside the mechanical room instead of on the exterior do you see anything wrong with that set up? Also looking to set up a compressor on a switch hooked up to System for easy winterizing
Just saw this video while exploring . Didnt watch it cause I know how to install these but could see the finished job on the screen and was impressed ny how clean of a job you did. So just stopping in the comments to say damn good work man. Very clean
Does home depot sell that wall mount hanger your using to support that BFP?
Nice installation Steven!! I'm glad the humidity dropped off over the last three days. It maybe good for your business, but it taxes the hell out of our 700 ton chillers and cooling towers at the hospital! We ran around like rats yesterday trying to keep the A/C running. Kinda wish I had the day off and was in Momma's air conditioned basement with a Michelob Ultra!!
Brad1237202 not easy for sure ,you have a rough job
I agree Steve the lead free brass fittings and ball valves are a pain in the ass ... need a lot more heat to get that silica hot which makes for a joint not so easynon the eye ... you can cool the fitting down slightly and hit it with some flux to clean that brownish tinge off or can flux bath it if your outside or good ventilated area
dennis postek you can tell the difference in Canadian brass fitting and China fittings just by the way it solders
dennis postek ya new brass fitting suck
MrPlumber15 new brass sucks for sure
I have an old copper irrigation system. what's the best and easiest way to rise the heads to the current grass level? The current heads don't even seem to be solder on the pipe.
If I'm in Denver, should I be installing a drain valve on the supply side of the PVB so that I can drain it in the winter?
Wow you were sure working fast today. I guess you were really ready to get that job done. LOL.
Farm Fresh trying to keep the videos short
Finally someone who takes their work and video recording seriously! Good go to bro! Good clean work on a job well done. My only question is:
Does your local code require that type of backflow preventer? Some cities require a double check valve setup so that's why I asked.
What is that support device called that you used on the piping? I need something to support my 1.5" backflow preventer.
Is it ok if the water line from the backflow to the irrigation manifold is above ground? Where im planning to install mine out back my patio is cement so I'll have to run it maybe 10 feet near the foundation of the house until I get to the side of the lawn then go in ground to manifold box. Thinking PVC should be ok with unions so I'm able to unscrew should there be any issues.
Nice clean work!
***** thanks for watching larry
andya1166 that lead free brass it does not solder like the older stuff . i guess your not out in the field working so your clewless .probley living down in mama basement
andya1166 lol you are a clewless looser
great job, do you recommend copper or pvc?
Great video Steve
Where did you find that wall pipe bracket? Thankd
Great work Stephen
ohhhhh momma steve is working again
dklucas1 steve is working again
You make things look like art.... very nice install Steve. Question for u, Have you ever heard about devil horns for the torch? If so what's your input? Keep up the great work
Comfort Air Heating & Cooling LLC that might be ok for brassing silfoss but not for a soft solder torch . i believe zack talyn875 has one and uses it ask him
steven lavimoniere yep your right. Good for silphos only.
It looks like all of those working man meals are paying off! You've gone super high speed tech!
Ryan Losinger speed it up to keep the video shorter
I like it. We still get to see the process, without it being cut out.
How much did you charge to do that job?
Good job Steven.
codymon100 thanks
As always Steve, a nice neatly installed job.
-Jack
Fireship1 i am happy the way it came out
now why did you put 1 1/4 pipe for the house supply, couldn't it have been fine with what was there already?
Great video, you make it look too easy.
Hey question, the original line from the main was 1 inch, what did you increase it to? Did you increase the house side only or house and sprinkler line?
I have a cheap rain bird one that hooks into my house bibb the pop up style. The problem that I'm having is my flow rate is really low. Like 5gpm. I can't really run the system to its full potential. I can increase the psi at my regular but I'm already as the limit to where it gets unsafe for my house pex pipes and the end of the line fixture. I see my main line is about 2 inches and then it breaks down into 1inch that had a T for my fire sprinkle and house lines like kitchen and bathrooms. I can see my front and back house Bibbs are about 1/2inch. I feel like i need to recipe those lines to a thicket size like 3/4 or even an 1inch to have better and more flow. My bsmt is unfinished so a repipe wouldn't be too bad. In a perfect world i know i should be catching my water from the main service line before it comes to the house but i would assume that would be pretty expensive to go a full multi zone system
great work, is there a reason why you closed a ball valve while soldering it?
Dennis Noone always better to solder the ball vale in a closed position if you can ,thats the way i was tough
ok, good to know, i always thought it should be open,
thanks
Do you need a license for that in denver.. im starting to do an irrigation buisness in denver and im license in houston and we use nothing but pvc down here to tap in the meter..
Nice work. I guess you had your coffee before you started. Where do you get the hanger that you used on the irrigation side of the vac breaker? I keep looking for those but can't find them out west in Portland. Do you test you're own devices or do you have to test back flow devices out there?
***** i used a 3/8 galvenized f+m plate and a 1/2 ips f+m ring ,,and cut some 3/8 threaded rod to fit .
Nice one. STEVE IS WORKIN' AGAIN !!!!!
Chowdy Chopz steve is always working
Woah steves worth triple the money with super speed soldering! Really stupid question I have to ask... What difference is the 1-1/4" going to make if the line coming to the house from the street is 1" anyway?
Truckguy900 Truckguy900 he needs the volume not pressure
Truckguy900 Truckguy900 size of water main does not come into affect when sizing {water main piping in house }. your right a bigger water main come in would be better .
Nice work Steve. Was wondering why you don't ream the pipes out after you cut them?
I’m curious why you didn’t increase the incoming line to inch and a quarter? because just increasing it afterwards doesn’t really do much at all..
proficient plumbing, thanks for sharing.
+Adriano Larios thanks for watching
Nice job Steve
Harry Dickson thanks harry
Hi Steve, I like your videos and had 2 questions how do you calculate the load when adding a new sprinkler line? Also do you use a damp or dry rag to clean after soldering? Thank you!
100% damp rag my friend
You fast bro ! hehe good work Steve ! as always...
Hybrid Mechanical trying to keep the videos short
Thanks for the content boss
I have a serious problem, when I turn on the water in my house, sink, shower, flush toilet, ect, the water pressure drops very low and pipes in my basement starts making very loud banging noises. Do you have any idea what the problem is?
skylimithd sounds like you have a loose washer in shut off some were .if the washer is floating in shut off screw head rotted off it would do that
Steve, how do you do the pipe diameter calculation?
Joe Bal mass code buy fixture units is how its done ,you add up every thing in house hot and cold to deturmand the fixture unit load for water pipe
How is 1 1/4" going to increase the flow if you don't have that size water meter and the supply isn't that large?
Sachi WI you have to side the house piping for fixture unit load the water service would be better if it was 1" but thats not reallity .beleive me there is plenty flow of water on street side of meter ,,,
steven lavimoniere I'm sure there is most people water really early in the morning - I was just checking to see if I was right - it was more a question than a statement :o)
Well done job sir
Dunn Plumbing llc thanks for the comment
Buen trabajo!! How much does cost sir ??
Nice ! Here comes the ice cream truck !
Hvacrookie86 mama he is working in the ice cream truck
Damn you have some clean joints till you wipe them
Quick! Is that a Philly accent?
Good job brother
Nice jobbers
Nicholas CeeA easy enough
my sprinkler valves/system has little to no pressure. could it be the backflow preventer
you ever figure it out?
Awesome video!
nice work, like always
gekkedirkie thanks for watching
my backflow was leaking under the top lid. any ideas? i installed the same way and don't have any other leaks.
probley went through a freeze did you winterize it last year ??? you might be able to get a rebuild kit for it and fix it .get the modle and serial number and get a rebuild kit for it .you have to blow them out with compressed air for winter months all zones should be done that way to prevent freeze ups and problems
sounds like the o-ring is bad.....or the float kit located under the canopy
great work. :)
***** thanks you
steven lavimoniere ur welcome. :)
steve if you keep working at that pace , you can do all the plumbing jobs in the entire state of Massachusetts,,,,,, slow it down save some work for the other guys
jack thompson lol trying to keep the videos short
Why not put it before the regulator
Use must be from New Yorks or Bosstan.
Hey here's a thought. you make vlogs and joke around. That's because you're The Good Humor Man...(ring the bell) LOL
Chowdy Chopz i might get a bell for my computer station
where you from on the east coast
Steve it is normal when you test the Febco 765 water should coming at the top? It will fix on it own?
What part is 8:33?
I would have put one mow stand off at the top to support it better. know there's a better name for it but mind is DOA
could you make a video on how to solder the led free brass fittings, its a bitch to do. thanks
Professional
I get paid piece work I wish i could work that fast i would be a millionaire
MrPlumber15 lol
I thought I was having trouble soldering brass fittings because it was just me...
why switch to 1.25 for that little bit. its only 1'" feeding the house. then you went back to 3/4" for the irrigation? why not just tap into the original 1" pipe with a 1" tee and go from there. alot of extra added that does nothing to better the flow. you actually decreased the flow and made it louder when the irrigation is running by going smaller. why not use pex. faster, less bends, sweats less and quieter.
Dorchesters am I right!
I hate that poly shit the sprinkler guys use
I know what you mean, most all guys uSE that cheap utility black pipe, its very thin wall and not meant to be buried, they should be using the red strip well line, but they don't unless you boot there ass and make them take out what they started installing, when I was heavy into landscaping, I would sub that part of the job to the guys that do that day in and day out, I told them no black utility pipe, use the red strip well pipe, I went to check on my guys and they were there doing the install, lucky they were Only 1/3rd wit the pipe in, I made them rip it out, and use what I told them to use, that utility pipe just from ground shitting it kinks and cracks, you don't want PVC HERE WITH OUR -40 TO -50 WINTERS, IT BRAKES UP WITH GROUND SHIFT AT -40. HE HAS ME PUZZED TOO WHY HE WENT TO 1-1/4 COPPER UP FROM 1 INCH. WHEN THE SUPPLY TO THE METER COMEING UP THOUGH THE FLOOR IS ONLY 3/4 INCH, IT NOT GOING TO INCRESE THE FLOW, BUT WILL GIVE A BIT OF A HEADER FOR LITTLE STORAGE, SORT OF SAME WAY WE DO IN FLOOR HEATING, THE MAIN HEADER IS 1-1/4" THE PEX FEES TO IT IS 1 INCH PEX. AND EACH LOOP IN THE FLOOR IS 1/2 INCH PEX, JUST SO NOTHING STARVES, THAT 1/4 INCH DONT SOUND MUCH, BUT IT REALLY ADDS A LOT MORE WATER FOR THE SPLITS, SAME THING WHEN I RUFE IN A HOUSE I USE ALL 1" MAIN RUNS AND TEE OFF TO 3/4 TO EACH APLIANCE, CITY WATER IS ONLY 3/4 FEED UNLESS YOUR A COMERCAL BUILDING then your feed with 2" to 6", well feeds are 1 ' to 1-1/4. my well is all 1-1/4 right to the pt
I didn't have to google your name to know you live within 10 miles of me. (F.R.). Keep your phone handy - I may be calling you to un-f' what I'm about to try in my basement....
Nice Job Steve.
Arnie Grote thanks
I hate that poly shit the sprinkler guys use