Bleeding is to get rid of any air bubbles in the braking system. Flushing is to get ride on any moisture that has accumulated in the brake fluid since the last flush. I believe that you want to flush the ABS as well as the brake calipers in order to get rid of all that nasty moisture in the brake system. Great video. Thank you! I ordered a set of Speed Bleeders for my S1000XR after watching your video.
@Alan Butler - Great point about the moisture in the brake line, thanks for the comment. Those speed bleeders are fantastic, wish there were more sizes available, I would put them on all my vehicles! Safe riding!
@GSJeff - Yes, I tend to do that, I might be a bit dyslexic. I think I should be saying "flushing through bleeding" because in this case I'm replacing the old fluid. Cheers!
Well that was easy. A couple of TIPS: 1) I prefer to use a combination wrench where I end up using the box end on the bleeder screw. It stays in place nicely plus and especially on the rear caliper, it makes loosening and tightening the bleeder screw a lot easier. 2) I do not use Speed Bleeders, instead I insert a ball bearing into the hose and using an Xacto blade, I cut a slit into the hose just above the ball bearing. You have to experiment with the length of the slit so as not to generate too much back pressure when bleeding that caliper otherwise the hose might pop off the bleeder. 3) to get the front master cylinder to be as upright as possible (the front edge is lower than the back edge), raise the front wheel by sticking some wood under it when it is on the center stand.
If I had a GS911 I'd do the ABS unit but I don't... bled my breaks a few times on my 2014 GSA and it's been perfectly fine. I hold my brake levers in overnnight, which helps let any leftover air get up to the reservoir.
@stallebrass - Yeah, that will work! That GS911 is an investment for sure, I have used it for diagnostic purposes as well. You can see details if and when faults are thrown. I think in most cases you don't need to bleed that ABS unit unless you need to change out that unit or one of the brake lines. Cheers!
GOOD STUFF and Great Job. A few tips. 1. Never ever put news paper on a painted surface of the bike! If brake fluid ..even a drop or two were to get on the paper, the fluid will get on the tank. You might not even be able to see it. But if the drop or drops of fluid moisten the paper through and through.... the paint could easily be impacted in a most un desirable way!!!! ITS FAR BETTER to... Have a clean cloth cotton towel that you wet for this activity and droop it on what ever you want to protect. If you do spill a drop of B fluid, the wet towel will stop most of the fluid. Better than that is use some type of plastic barrier ( visqueen) ( SP?). Rinse off the towel when done and let it be the dedicated towel for this task..etc. As for the "nose -sucker-outer" for babies... ( LOL) you can also just use paper towels to absorb the fluid out. NEVER take all of it out! Make sure there is some on the bottom covering the intake hole... other wise you will introduce air into the sealed system. Absorbing the fluid out of the reservoir is tricky in that it is easy to get fluid on painted surfaces or other parts. So be careful and think it through. Better than absorbing with paper towel, is a syringe, or just a squeezable bottle with a tube on the end. sub'd n' T-up. Now all I need to do is save up for my GSA!
@David Falgout - Thanks for comments and feedback, very useful indeed! Always interesting to hear other methods and tips. And yes, that nose-sucker-outer was all I had around, and I have dedicated it for this task now. Will definitely use the wet cotton cloth method on my next job. Thanks again!
Time to do a brake flush on my R1200 GSA LC. Thanks for the info so that I do not having to reinvent the wheel. I finally have a use for my GS911 other than maintenance minder resets.
@HorizonsUnlimited - Great to hear! Yep, the GS911 has way more features than I'll ever use. Probably need to dig a little deeper to see what else I should be checking!
@@zooskifilms Unfortunately as much as the GS911 costs, it cannot do something as simple as a "Time Format" change in my instrument panel. I hate AM/PM and am used to a 24H clock from my flying days. So I had to buy the MotoScan app and the ODBLink MX+ to change the Time Format and for 1/3 the cost of a GS911, it was a bargain. Of course the MotoScan app does a lot as well. I like all my diagnostic tools with 5 of them in the shop.
One trick I found very useful to remove any remaining air in the system is to press back the brake pads in the calipers all the way after bleading the brakes. This way any air in the system will be moved up to the reservoar and out of the system.
@Chris Fogel - Thanks for watching and for the comment! All of these jobs are doable, easy does it, don't rush or as my wise 98 year-old father would say "don't force it". Cheers!
Great Video! I really appreciate the order of operations and why they should be done in that order. Your Video is clear and very well done! A big Thank You! And yes I liked and subscribed.
@Tony Baumgartner - a big thank you back for the comment and subscribing to the channel. It is appreciated! Feel free to send over other videos you’d like to see and I’ll do my best to put one together.
@Bob McLaughlin - Ok excellent, that's the whole purpose of doing these videos, to show other users this is something they can do themselves. Give yourself some time and take it slow, you can do it!
Great video - I'm going to tackle this soon. I'm confused on what happens to the fluid in the ABS pump if the system is completely closed. It's not a bleed or a flush (terms used interchangeably here) so how is this helping to push old fluid out of the pump and into the hoses so that the next round of mechanical bleeding can push it through and out?
@Dan Paul - Good question. The brake fluid line runs through the ABS unit, and modulates the fluid in the line when activated. It has a small amount of fluid in ABS unit itself, but when it opens up the fluid in the ABS pulses out and back in, basically mixing in with the fluid in the mail line. So bleeding the main line in between ABS activations will provide new fluid to ABS. Running that ABS three times should get rid of any potential air and also mix out most of the old fluid. Many folks mentioned they don't bother with running the ABS unless they change the brake line or ABS unit itself. Hope this helps!
@@zooskifilms Ah, that makes sense, and hence the reason for doing it three times. It's essentially agitating and mixing that fluid in with the rest. On a bicycle we just do one flush and done. I'm wondering (or betting) if you're skipping the ABS pump that just a single run of pumping the fluid through until you see clean fluid coming out the caliper is as good as doing it three times. That being said, I'm going to get the GS911 and do the pump method because if you're going to that trouble anyway, might as well do it completely. I just changed the fluid on my forks (only at 20k) and I was shocked at how dirty it was. Had the brakes done by the dealer at 12k, but it's time to tackle them. Thanks for the wisdom and your time!
Awesome video, appreciate the high quality. Just have a few questions: Was the brake feel not as firm as factory after this bleeding technique? I'm just curious as to why you had to tie the levers down overnight. Surely the dealer doesn't need to tie the levers down overnight after a brake flush so I'm curious if they know something we don't for this procedure. I'm not opposed to it but would prefer not to have to leave the reservoirs open for an extended period of time. With brake fluid being hygroscopic I'd be concerned about it absorbing moisture during this period. Does the service manual mention the ABS flush? No mention of whether they recommend to leave the bleed valves open or closed? I know yours were closed in the video. Thanks again
@Gary - Thanks for the comment and for watching! The brake feel didn't change for me after performing this service. Tying down the levers was something I found in another video and thought I would share it. I think it might be helpful for those who have a softer brake feel after bleeding their brakes, but for me it made no difference. I agree with you on leaving the brake reservoir lids open too long, but if you do this service every couple of years you'll be in good shape. My recommendation would be to only tie down the brake levers if you have a softer brake feel after the bleeding and flush. The service manual does NOT mention the ABS flush. The bleed valves should be closed during the ABS flush (using the GS911). Any air that resides in the ABS unit will be pushed towards the caliper during the ABS flush cycle and the subsequent bleeding will purge that air. At least that's how I understand it. Thanks again and good luck!
@@zooskifilms tying down the brake handle before bleeding was an old racer trick.. leave the cover on. Theory is that is the system is pressured, dissolved air would come out. I never did it, I remove all the fluid in the res, do a good flush with the mityvac. With that I would assume all bubbles were removed.
If you tie back the front break lever for a couple of days how does that help get air out of the system. I believe it’s a closed system so I don’t know how the air would escape. Thanks for doing these videos, they’re a big help :)
@Ernie L - Thanks for the comment! Any air in the lines will want to rise so they will eventually make their way up to the brake reservoir, and out of the brake line. You could leave your brake reservoir caps on but open to help facilitate this, but from what I’ve read this will work even if fully closed. Hope this helps!
@@zooskifilms Thank You! I did as you recommended for 2 days and my brake lever feel is much firmer! I was frustrated because I had done the entire process (including using the GS911 I bought for this) and the lever feel wasn't as good as when I purchased the bike. It is now :)
@Ernie L - great news, glad that worked. Nothing worse that soft brakes, especially after bleeding them! A title bit of patience goes a long way. Safe riding!
Great Vid; Thx. I have a couple of questions regarding terminology just to make sure I understand what you mean. So each time after activating the ABS pump and performing the 2 second pump x 3 : 1) You are saying to perform a mechanical "brake fluid flush". Do you mean a mechanical brake fluid "bleed"? Because we would have already flushed the brake fluid system mechanically before starting with this ABS process - replaced old fluid with new; right? So did you mean just to mechanically "bleed" the brakes after the ABS activation process or flush the system again? 2) If you meant "bleed"; how much fluid should we bleed out after each ABS activation process? About 3 brake pumps on each brake? Many thx.
@AL BISHTINO - Thanks for your comment and question (it's a good question!). Some answers: 1) Yes, I am using the term "flush" and "bleed" interchangeably here. The instructions in the Hexcode GS911 software refer to a "mechanical bleeding", not a "mechanical flush". To me, we want to "flush out" all of the brake fluid on the first run (before the first ABS pump activation), then on the second and third "mechanical bleed" (after the first and second ABS pump flush), we want to bleed off any air that was pumped out of the ABS modulator during the "ABS Pump flush". 2) I "bled" out about 80% of the fluid in the reservoir for each caliper, so I suspect that would be more than three pumps. Now that I think about it, the rear caliper has a smaller reservoir, and about the same distance of travel (from ABS modulator to caliper), so I will probably run through two times there for the second and third "mechanical bleeds". Hope this helps, and thanks again for the comment!
Your videos are great. I face a problem with my rear brake. I lost pressure at the foot brake. Went to BMW and they bleed the system, then all working as normal, the only problem it works for only a few pressures on the foot brake, after I loose all the brake again. Cutting story short, I was recommended to change caliper what I did, problem still persist!!! Then next was told the foot brake cylinder what I did as well. same problem still no rear brake. BMW says the ABS pump is working properly, the system all fine but the problem not solved. They state this the first time that happen on the bikes they been servicing. Any suggestion? Thanks in advance. Safe rides
@Carlos Velho - Sorry to hear about your loss of brake pressure. What year is your GS? When you say losing pressure, do you mean the foot brake travels all the way down and the rear brakes do not work? If this is the case, the loss of pressure is is either air bleeding out or fluid bleeding out. Can you see any brake fluid leaking anywhere? Do you have the GS911?
@@zooskifilms Thank you for your time to reply. I have a GS1200 - 2014. When bleeding the system works perfect but will stop working and the foot brake goes down all the way with activating the brakes. I don't have a GS911 but will definitely purchase it asap. Do I need to bleep the ABS unit pump?
@@carlosvelho4810 - I'm curious if you can bleed your ABS pump without issue. If the pedal goes all the way down it makes me think there is a leak somewhere. It would be good to eliminate each component until you find the one that is the problem.
@mdzigurski - Thanks for your comment. Yes, I use Pentosin Super DOT 4. I show the detail on the full brake bleed process and materials in Part 1 which can be found here: th-cam.com/video/9kmEwehxFXY/w-d-xo.html
@ Lars Lind - I'm fairly certain it's the same procedure, especially from looking at the microfiche of the R1250, it has an ABS unit. I also checked the Hexcode website and they list the XABS function for the R1250GS - www.hexgs911.com/function-chart/#K001_K50_R1250GS
Did all my services per bmw when i got my 05 bleed the brakes and theyve been rock solid amazing brakes but recently the abs reservoir got low so i had to order a gs because wonkey brakes are not acceptable
Thanks for these videos. Very helpful. I have a question about the second tip--when you "wire tie" the brake lever closed over night to eliminate residual air in the system, do you leave the brake fluid reservoir open? Also, do you do a similar technique for the rear brake? (somehow wire tie the rear brake pedal down) Thanks.
@peter shimm - Good questions! I left the cap on but only snug tight until after I cut the wire ties. Then I tightened the cap down all the way. For the rear brake the wire ties don't work so easily (nice catch!). I wedged a tool with a rubber handle between the rear brake and frame. You could also try a small piece of wood.
I have seen several videos on brake flushing (Jim Bade is one of the most reputable) that show performing the bleed process after removing the calipers (front and rear) and placing wooden or plastic shims to spread the pads to remove the old fluid from the calipers, I noticed you are not doing that. Is it not necessary or overkill? Thanks - good video!
@John Tyler - Great point. Technically that method of pushing the pads (the caliper piston) forces most of the brake fluid sitting in the caliper, so that would be a more thorough method for sure. I didn't do that in my video because of the extra work, my original plan was to do that when I change out the brake pads. But I'm on year 4 now and have not had to change the pads out yet, so I really should do that sooner than later. I think the main point of changing out the brake fluid is to remove any moisture in the brake line which could cause corrosion (brake fluid being hydroscopic). Is it necessary every year? I would think not but certainly every two years would be reasonable. Thanks for the comment, I will address this in my next follow up video!
Thanks two great videos. I want to change the fluid in my 2008 GS and was horrified to read in The Haynes Manual that this needs to be done by a main dealer. Thats big bucks here in the UK but having now watched your videos I feel that I can do it myself. Its still going to be big bucks though as I will need to buy the GS 911 but at least I can use it for other things. Thanks again & stay safe. Ted
Thanks for the comment! I also have the Haynes manual and I find it difficult to follow myself. The illustrations are not the best either. You won't regret purchasing the GS911, very useful tool. Good luck with the work!
The '08 is a hex head, and the process may be different. Specifically, there is a mysterious hose with a zerk nipple at its end which comes off the ABS unit. I have only seen speculation (no word from BMW) that that is a port for assisting in clearing/draining/flushing the ABS unit itself. Sorry I can't offer more than to say that the process in this video is SPECIFICALLY for the LC versions, although the concepts are largely the same; of particular note is that that buzzing sound during the ABS flush cycle is a device BMW added to clear up problems with lever sponginess in the LC bikes and it therefore will not be part of the '05-'09 series of GS. For guidance, check JVB Productions (Jim Von Baden) for a great series of GS maintenance videos.
The GS 911 will save you money. Its $400 US and I was able to diagnose a failed ABS unit in like 2 seconds. And zooskifilms videos will make it easy to do.
Hey mate, I've had my breakpads (GS 1200) closed on disks and levers very hard, Do you think it's because my brake fluid needs to be changed or it's an ABS problem? After 1 minute with key fob away everything went unlocked. Thanks for the response
@Jérémy Herraez - I doubt it is related to needing a brake fluid change, unless the fluid level was extremely low. Even then I would tend to think the brakes would be soft and spongy. It definitely sounds like an ABS issue. Just a few questions: has it happened more than once? What year is your bike? Only the front brakes? Do you have the GS911 diagnostic tool? Overall a good first step might be to flush and bleed the brakes and ABS unit (in the first version of this video series).
@@zooskifilms awesome thanks heaps for your answer. Yes the level was very low and I’ve added more Dot4. Now it seems all good. Well, as per you I should flush and replace all fluid just in case? My gs is from 2015
@@jeremyherraez8125 - Yeah, if you haven't done it before it's probably overdue. Curious why the level got so low, other than if the brake pads are completely worn. In which case you should check them, if not already. No fluid leak anywhere around the bike (particularly up front where the ABS unit is)?
@@zooskifilms I haven’t because I have recently purchased this bike so I’m assuming previous owner didn’t replace brake fluid. No leak at all . He must has changed break pads without adding more fluid I guess. Hoping it’s not related with abs. Going to flush it and I’ll see if it does happen again. Hoping not. Thanks for enlightening me mate, appreciate it.
Unfortunately I broke a bango ok my front brake line . I have replaced it and bled it but there is no pressure on the lever and it pulls back to the bar . Can you help ?
@Uncle travelling Matt - Ouch, sorry to hear. Were you able to bleed the ABS using the GS911? I assume when you broke the bolt all the brake fluid bled out? Feel free to DM me, my email is in my Channels about page.
@ArcanePath360 - Thanks for your question. That wouldn't count, you're not touching the ABS unit or hoses connected to it. In every case it is recommended to test out your ABS afer the brake servicing, just to be sure. You don't want to find out there's an issue when you really need them. Thanks for watching!
@@zooskifilms Thanks. I'm still torn on if I should get the Motoscan tool to do an ABS flush and service reset. Not sure I can justify the price at about £130. Since I stripped down the callipers and restored them my brakes are so much better now. There was all kinds of white gunk and ports blocked with crusty lumps of it, so maybe I should do a purge to be safe as you say. It hasn't activated in years. Not sure what else the app is useful for. It says it lists fault codes, but I can't find any info on what the codes would look like or how to interpret them. Everyone only ever talks about clearing them.
@@ArcanePath360 - Glad to hear you were able to make some progress. The HEX GS911 will show all of the features once you open the software. Not sure if it provides more details on the error codes. I probably should make another video showing the process of checking error codes and what do with them, aside from clearing them.
@@zooskifilms I'd be very interested in that. I can't find anything else online. Everyone always either mentions the ABS purge or clearing the service reminder. I would like to know what else it can do before I spend that kind of money on something that isn't a necessity as far as I can tell
@@zooskifilms I'm in Lake Orion. Different question.....does your GS have TPMS? My 2016 RT w/ 54k miles has TPMS and it has a mind of it's own now. Works when it wants to (front & back), no low battery warning, GS-911 shows interference faults, can't manually wake them with wake up tool. Dealer says 10 years on batteries but I'm reading 5 - 7. I'm thinking it's battery issues........... Mark
@@markmcguire7988 - yes, mine does have TPMS, but no issues thus far (~12,800 miles). Interesting on the interference faults. My first reaction would be battery as well. I'm curious if you changed your phone recently? Or added anything else to the bike that has wifi or other potential radio waves that might be causing the interference? Other things I've read are corrosion or high mileage (working more), which you are at - 4x's what I have. That is (the battery) most likely it! Let me know what you finally figure out. And drop me a note next time you're in west MI!
I did a front brake bleeding on my f800gs. Only clean fluid comes out of my hoses, no air. Still looks like some air is trapped in the system. When I press the brake lever this happens: th-cam.com/video/bPuovH6saew/w-d-xo.html. Can this be fixed by doing the abs pump bleeding procedure (motoscan?). Thanks for the video. I you have advise for me, I would appreciate it a lot.
@beatsmarttie5777 - Are there air bubbles when you do that or is that fluid coming back into the reservoir, hard to say from the video. If it's air, I would first suggest cracking the reservoir lid open a little (not off), and then tie the brake lever in the closed/pressed position and let it sit overnight (the longer the better). This will allow any air bubble up into the reservoir. If there's no air, just fluid coming back up, that is normal (at least on my R1200GS). See the first video in this series, the link to the section where you can see what the brake fluid does in the reservoir when you pump the handle: th-cam.com/video/9kmEwehxFXY/w-d-xo.html
@@zooskifilms I used the traditional method for bleeding. Hose with a container. Open the bleeder up squeeze brake close the bleeder screw, slowly release brake. Until clean fluid came out without air bubbles. I put my own case on TH-cam: th-cam.com/users/shortsKspC1mhjjk8?feature=share
Here's one that has me stumped. 2016 r1200rt 70k miles. About 3k miles ago I noticed that my windshield has about 1/2 inch of slop when it is up 3/4 to full. Meaning it doesn't extend all the way. I have pulled everything about, cleaned and lubed everything, i.e. control arms, springs, brackets etc. I have noticed that the motor hesitates for a quick second about 3/4 up and that's when the slop starts. However, it does not do this without the weight of the windshield on. I have recalibrated with the GS-911 several times (with shield on) but it doesn't fix it. Dealerships say they have not seen this problem. Has anyone else experienced this?
@mark mcguire - So it's a 1/2 inch short of reaching the full extension? Mine is the GSA so my windshield height adjustment is manual, but it definitely has some slack in the movement, especially at the taller position. I looked at the microfiche for the RT model and it only shows the complete assembly. I assume there is a gear on the motor that meshes with a gear on the shaft that's connected to brackets on both sides. Probably made of plastic and has some wear on the teeth when it's at 3/4 to full height position. Anyway to open that up and see where the motor mates with the shaft? Sorry couldn't be more help!
@@zooskifilms Thanks for the reply. The motor is moving the lower arms all the way up but then it has slack. Maybe worn gears or perhaps fatigue in the springs and they aren't holding it up. Prior to 2014 LC you could order individual parts but you are right, now it only shows the whole assembly..........for $750! BMW Detroit and BMW SEM had no ideas but I can't believe I'm the first with this issue. May drive out to BMW GR where I bought it and see if they have any input. Thanks again.
What I am hearing is that we live in the 20th century, own a high-tech BMW, yet have to deal with an inferior brake fluid technology that needs flushing every 2 years! I doubt dealers flush the brake fluids of bikes they have on their floor for over a year or two. Question: Is it best to use a vacuum pump or mechanical method for this task?
I would agree with that. It seems there is a related sense of safety factor when it comes to motorcycle maintenance, especially the brakes. I assume the potential failure in a brake system due to old brake fluid is rusting of the brake circuit, mainly the brake piston in the caliper due to a hydroscopic effect. Perhaps this is only a worst case scenario not everyone will experience. For me personally I don’t mind doing this maintenance, but if it is not necessary I’d be ok with not having to do it. To your question, if you don’t install speed bleeders, the vacuum pump would be a better method than pumping the brakes and manually open/close the valves. I’ve always had some issues with air in the line doing it that way. Perhaps it was the way I was doing it. Good luck and let us know what method you go with.
@@zooskifilms I have used the vacuum pump method on my KTM dirt bike and I did so after 5 years and not 2 years like what BMW suggests and I had to because the brake fluid was brown!! BMW just recalled their front calipers and that will be left with the dealer to flush. Interesting how BMW decided to save a little by going with Hayes calipers up front and Brembo in the rear, a bad business decision to mix different calipers and now they have recalled over 9,000 2019 and 2020 bikes. I doubt I will buy another BMW motorcycle again, I even sold my BMW 5 series automobile when recycled parts on it started to break apart. I think BMW is ditching quality...
@@ironhorsegladiator5034 Yes, unfortunate, tough to make up the bad rep when trying to save a few bucks. I tend to wait a few years after a new mode is released for these reasons. Need time to work out kinks. Cheers!
The reason you need to use the GS911 is to adjitate the fluid in the ABS pump module. You can bleed it without it, but the fluid in the pump doesn’t get pushed through the system. As for vacuum v mechanical - mechanical is fine and there is no need for a vacuum. I do a mini flush every six months using the mechanical method. No need for speed bleeders. Just run the hose into a bottle with fluid in the bottom. Make sure the hose is in the fluid, crack the bleeder and pump away.
Hi, i have problem with my 2015 gs rear brake, after bleeding the entire system using gs11 and all lines it will work for a day and then not working again after few hours of riding, there is no leaks on the lines and rear master cyclinder were replaced already. Ive noticed there is a lot of air bubbles on the line when bleeding but i dont know where is this coming from, ABS works great and no alarms on dash, the dealer said it could be the abs module but its 2000 usd. I really dont know whats happening with the rear brake system now. Pls help.thanks
Is the rear brake not functioning at all? What happens when you connect the GS911 now and run the ABS pump? I’ll check my service manual to see if there are any other suggestions, but it could be the ABS unit. I would assume you would see some malfunction now when you try to run the pump through the service function.
@@zooskifilms hi, my rear brake has very little pressure on it that the pedal is almost all the way down but still able to stop the rear wheel when on center stand and no weight. But i think in a few days it will loose the rear brake at all just like last time. There is no malfunction when insert the gs911, it says 100% status normal when being bleed and brakes working well but after 1 hour of riding it will loose pressure again and pedal allway down again like no pressure. I did also leak test and all is normal. Also when bleeding, the air bubbles is quite plenty and takes time beforeit disaappears.thank you.
@nagma2 - I checked the service manual and not much in there other than it says if the ABS unit is in fault the ABS light will remain on. In your case I assume the light is ON when you start the bike, but then disappears after getting above 5mph? Have you tried turning ABS OFF completely? I am also curious if you put the bike on the center stand and rotate the front wheel, press the rear brake, does the front wheel stop or slow down? The reason I ask is in case your bike has integrated brakes, perhaps there is some backflow when pressing the rear brake (not sure if there is a check valve or something stuck). If there is no leak, the fluid must be going somewhere. Also, if you have that much air in your line, something must be introducing it. Any chance you can video or audio record the ABS bleeding process with GS 911? It would be interesting to listen to how yours sounds. Finally, are you using speed bleeders for your brake line bleeds or another method?
@@zooskifilms hi, i only borrow the 911 to my friend and its quite far from home but im pretty sure the sound is normal while bleeding, just an update i have tried to put weight on my rear brake on overnight and now it shows additional pressure on the rear unlike yesterday but still way down than normal, i will try to ride it again and see the results. When on center stand i have move the front wheel and applied rear brake and still the front is rolling normally and not slowing down. I will update you after i ride again if the rear brake will improve.thanks
This is known problem, that appears to be the Nissin rear master cylinder. Here''s a link to ADVRider that goes through the issue (many pages worth) and what people have tried to improve the situation. advrider.com/f/threads/bmw-r1200gs-lc-rear-brake-failures.1264712/page-9
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Bleeding is to get rid of any air bubbles in the braking system. Flushing is to get ride on any moisture that has accumulated in the brake fluid since the last flush. I believe that you want to flush the ABS as well as the brake calipers in order to get rid of all that nasty moisture in the brake system. Great video. Thank you! I ordered a set of Speed Bleeders for my S1000XR after watching your video.
@Alan Butler - Great point about the moisture in the brake line, thanks for the comment. Those speed bleeders are fantastic, wish there were more sizes available, I would put them on all my vehicles! Safe riding!
This series is so incredibly helpful. Thank you.
@ryanmalone2681- Thanks for watching and for the comment, glad to hear it was helpful! 👍
Thanks for your video and I believe that you flipped the flush/bleed terminology around a couple of times during your presentation.
@GSJeff - Yes, I tend to do that, I might be a bit dyslexic. I think I should be saying "flushing through bleeding" because in this case I'm replacing the old fluid. Cheers!
Well that was easy. A couple of TIPS: 1) I prefer to use a combination wrench where I end up using the box end on the bleeder screw. It stays in place nicely plus and especially on the rear caliper, it makes loosening and tightening the bleeder screw a lot easier. 2) I do not use Speed Bleeders, instead I insert a ball bearing into the hose and using an Xacto blade, I cut a slit into the hose just above the ball bearing. You have to experiment with the length of the slit so as not to generate too much back pressure when bleeding that caliper otherwise the hose might pop off the bleeder. 3) to get the front master cylinder to be as upright as possible (the front edge is lower than the back edge), raise the front wheel by sticking some wood under it when it is on the center stand.
@A. C. E. - Thanks for the tips and insight, very helpful!
If I had a GS911 I'd do the ABS unit but I don't... bled my breaks a few times on my 2014 GSA and it's been perfectly fine. I hold my brake levers in overnnight, which helps let any leftover air get up to the reservoir.
@stallebrass - Yeah, that will work! That GS911 is an investment for sure, I have used it for diagnostic purposes as well. You can see details if and when faults are thrown. I think in most cases you don't need to bleed that ABS unit unless you need to change out that unit or one of the brake lines. Cheers!
GOOD STUFF and Great Job. A few tips. 1. Never ever put news paper on a painted surface of the bike! If brake fluid ..even a drop or two were to get on the paper, the fluid will get on the tank. You might not even be able to see it. But if the drop or drops of fluid moisten the paper through and through.... the paint could easily be impacted in a most un desirable way!!!! ITS FAR BETTER to... Have a clean cloth cotton towel that you wet for this activity and droop it on what ever you want to protect. If you do spill a drop of B fluid, the wet towel will stop most of the fluid. Better than that is use some type of plastic barrier ( visqueen) ( SP?). Rinse off the towel when done and let it be the dedicated towel for this task..etc.
As for the "nose -sucker-outer" for babies... ( LOL) you can also just use paper towels to absorb the fluid out. NEVER take all of it out! Make sure there is some on the bottom covering the intake hole... other wise you will introduce air into the sealed system. Absorbing the fluid out of the reservoir is tricky in that it is easy to get fluid on painted surfaces or other parts. So be careful and think it through. Better than absorbing with paper towel, is a syringe, or just a squeezable bottle with a tube on the end. sub'd n' T-up. Now all I need to do is save up for my GSA!
@David Falgout - Thanks for comments and feedback, very useful indeed! Always interesting to hear other methods and tips. And yes, that nose-sucker-outer was all I had around, and I have dedicated it for this task now. Will definitely use the wet cotton cloth method on my next job. Thanks again!
Time to do a brake flush on my R1200 GSA LC. Thanks for the info so that I do not having to reinvent the wheel. I finally have a use for my GS911 other than maintenance minder resets.
@HorizonsUnlimited - Great to hear! Yep, the GS911 has way more features than I'll ever use. Probably need to dig a little deeper to see what else I should be checking!
@@zooskifilms Unfortunately as much as the GS911 costs, it cannot do something as simple as a "Time Format" change in my instrument panel. I hate AM/PM and am used to a 24H clock from my flying days. So I had to buy the MotoScan app and the ODBLink MX+ to change the Time Format and for 1/3 the cost of a GS911, it was a bargain. Of course the MotoScan app does a lot as well. I like all my diagnostic tools with 5 of them in the shop.
One trick I found very useful to remove any remaining air in the system is to press back the brake pads in the calipers all the way after bleading the brakes. This way any air in the system will be moved up to the reservoar and out of the system.
@Robort Kristensen - Thanks for the tip, wish I had it when I made this video. Cheers!
Great video, I agree that it gives one the confidence to get it done.
@Chris Fogel - Thanks for watching and for the comment! All of these jobs are doable, easy does it, don't rush or as my wise 98 year-old father would say "don't force it". Cheers!
Great Video! I really appreciate the order of operations and why they should be done in that order. Your Video is clear and very well done! A big Thank You! And yes I liked and subscribed.
@Tony Baumgartner - a big thank you back for the comment and subscribing to the channel. It is appreciated! Feel free to send over other videos you’d like to see and I’ll do my best to put one together.
Check out the original full brake fluid flush and ABS bleed video with speed bleeders installation: th-cam.com/video/9kmEwehxFXY/w-d-xo.html
EXCELLENT! Thanks for presenting
@William Banzof - Thanks for the comment and for watching!
Very precise, thanks for the confidence to do myself!
@Bob McLaughlin - Ok excellent, that's the whole purpose of doing these videos, to show other users this is something they can do themselves. Give yourself some time and take it slow, you can do it!
Great video - I'm going to tackle this soon. I'm confused on what happens to the fluid in the ABS pump if the system is completely closed. It's not a bleed or a flush (terms used interchangeably here) so how is this helping to push old fluid out of the pump and into the hoses so that the next round of mechanical bleeding can push it through and out?
@Dan Paul - Good question. The brake fluid line runs through the ABS unit, and modulates the fluid in the line when activated. It has a small amount of fluid in ABS unit itself, but when it opens up the fluid in the ABS pulses out and back in, basically mixing in with the fluid in the mail line. So bleeding the main line in between ABS activations will provide new fluid to ABS. Running that ABS three times should get rid of any potential air and also mix out most of the old fluid. Many folks mentioned they don't bother with running the ABS unless they change the brake line or ABS unit itself. Hope this helps!
@@zooskifilms Ah, that makes sense, and hence the reason for doing it three times. It's essentially agitating and mixing that fluid in with the rest. On a bicycle we just do one flush and done. I'm wondering (or betting) if you're skipping the ABS pump that just a single run of pumping the fluid through until you see clean fluid coming out the caliper is as good as doing it three times.
That being said, I'm going to get the GS911 and do the pump method because if you're going to that trouble anyway, might as well do it completely.
I just changed the fluid on my forks (only at 20k) and I was shocked at how dirty it was. Had the brakes done by the dealer at 12k, but it's time to tackle them.
Thanks for the wisdom and your time!
@@DanPaulDrums - You bet, anytime, and good luck with the wrenching!
Awesome video, appreciate the high quality. Just have a few questions:
Was the brake feel not as firm as factory after this bleeding technique? I'm just curious as to why you had to tie the levers down overnight. Surely the dealer doesn't need to tie the levers down overnight after a brake flush so I'm curious if they know something we don't for this procedure. I'm not opposed to it but would prefer not to have to leave the reservoirs open for an extended period of time. With brake fluid being hygroscopic I'd be concerned about it absorbing moisture during this period.
Does the service manual mention the ABS flush? No mention of whether they recommend to leave the bleed valves open or closed? I know yours were closed in the video.
Thanks again
@Gary - Thanks for the comment and for watching! The brake feel didn't change for me after performing this service. Tying down the levers was something I found in another video and thought I would share it. I think it might be helpful for those who have a softer brake feel after bleeding their brakes, but for me it made no difference. I agree with you on leaving the brake reservoir lids open too long, but if you do this service every couple of years you'll be in good shape. My recommendation would be to only tie down the brake levers if you have a softer brake feel after the bleeding and flush. The service manual does NOT mention the ABS flush. The bleed valves should be closed during the ABS flush (using the GS911). Any air that resides in the ABS unit will be pushed towards the caliper during the ABS flush cycle and the subsequent bleeding will purge that air. At least that's how I understand it. Thanks again and good luck!
@Gary - saw a question come though but now it's not showing up on this video. Please repost or send me a PM. Thanks!
@@zooskifilms tying down the brake handle before bleeding was an old racer trick.. leave the cover on. Theory is that is the system is pressured, dissolved air would come out. I never did it, I remove all the fluid in the res, do a good flush with the mityvac. With that I would assume all bubbles were removed.
@@skippynj1979 - Thanks for the comment. It's a nice trick, gave me that original brake feel. Thanks again!
@@zooskifilms enjoy that beautiful bike. I just use the mityvac... Never a problem
Thanks. Exactly the info I was looking for
Great, glad it helped!
If you tie back the front break lever for a couple of days how does that help get air out of the system. I believe it’s a closed system so I don’t know how the air would escape. Thanks for doing these videos, they’re a big help :)
@Ernie L - Thanks for the comment! Any air in the lines will want to rise so they will eventually make their way up to the brake reservoir, and out of the brake line. You could leave your brake reservoir caps on but open to help facilitate this, but from what I’ve read this will work even if fully closed. Hope this helps!
@@zooskifilms Thank You! I did as you recommended for 2 days and my brake lever feel is much firmer! I was frustrated because I had done the entire process (including using the GS911 I bought for this) and the lever feel wasn't as good as when I purchased the bike. It is now :)
@Ernie L - great news, glad that worked. Nothing worse that soft brakes, especially after bleeding them! A title bit of patience goes a long way. Safe riding!
Great help thanks!
@Dave McMahon - Thanks for watching and for the comment!
Great Vid; Thx. I have a couple of questions regarding terminology just to make sure I understand what you mean.
So each time after activating the ABS pump and performing the 2 second pump x 3 :
1) You are saying to perform a mechanical "brake fluid flush". Do you mean a mechanical brake fluid "bleed"? Because we would have already flushed the brake fluid system mechanically before starting with this ABS process - replaced old fluid with new; right? So did you mean just to mechanically "bleed" the brakes after the ABS activation process or flush the system again?
2) If you meant "bleed"; how much fluid should we bleed out after each ABS activation process? About 3 brake pumps on each brake?
Many thx.
@AL BISHTINO - Thanks for your comment and question (it's a good question!). Some answers: 1) Yes, I am using the term "flush" and "bleed" interchangeably here. The instructions in the Hexcode GS911 software refer to a "mechanical bleeding", not a "mechanical flush". To me, we want to "flush out" all of the brake fluid on the first run (before the first ABS pump activation), then on the second and third "mechanical bleed" (after the first and second ABS pump flush), we want to bleed off any air that was pumped out of the ABS modulator during the "ABS Pump flush". 2) I "bled" out about 80% of the fluid in the reservoir for each caliper, so I suspect that would be more than three pumps. Now that I think about it, the rear caliper has a smaller reservoir, and about the same distance of travel (from ABS modulator to caliper), so I will probably run through two times there for the second and third "mechanical bleeds". Hope this helps, and thanks again for the comment!
@@zooskifilms ... much obliged. Very clear. Thx.
Your videos are great. I face a problem with my rear brake. I lost pressure at the foot brake. Went to BMW and they bleed the system, then all working as normal, the only problem it works for only a few pressures on the foot brake, after I loose all the brake again. Cutting story short, I was recommended to change caliper what I did, problem still persist!!! Then next was told the foot brake cylinder what I did as well. same problem still no rear brake. BMW says the ABS pump is working properly, the system all fine but the problem not solved. They state this the first time that happen on the bikes they been servicing. Any suggestion? Thanks in advance. Safe rides
@Carlos Velho - Sorry to hear about your loss of brake pressure. What year is your GS? When you say losing pressure, do you mean the foot brake travels all the way down and the rear brakes do not work? If this is the case, the loss of pressure is is either air bleeding out or fluid bleeding out. Can you see any brake fluid leaking anywhere? Do you have the GS911?
@@zooskifilms Thank you for your time to reply. I have a GS1200 - 2014. When bleeding the system works perfect but will stop working and the foot brake goes down all the way with activating the brakes. I don't have a GS911 but will definitely purchase it asap. Do I need to bleep the ABS unit pump?
@@carlosvelho4810 - I'm curious if you can bleed your ABS pump without issue. If the pedal goes all the way down it makes me think there is a leak somewhere. It would be good to eliminate each component until you find the one that is the problem.
You must have a 2016/17/18 GS. Seems to be an often complained about issue on these bikes. ADV Rider has an extensive thread on this.
Thank you for the videos; they helped me a lot with bleeding my brakes. Question: Did you use dot 4 low viscosity fluid?
@mdzigurski - Thanks for your comment. Yes, I use Pentosin Super DOT 4. I show the detail on the full brake bleed process and materials in Part 1 which can be found here: th-cam.com/video/9kmEwehxFXY/w-d-xo.html
Thanks mate.
@Hoss P - You're welcome. Cheers!
Thanks for sharing, I like the tips lol
@mojah1 - Thanks for the comment. I do what I can, when I can!
Thank you so much for a great video! Do you know if it is the same procedure on 1250 GS as 1200 GS and vent the ABS unit?
@ Lars Lind - I'm fairly certain it's the same procedure, especially from looking at the microfiche of the R1250, it has an ABS unit. I also checked the Hexcode website and they list the XABS function for the R1250GS - www.hexgs911.com/function-chart/#K001_K50_R1250GS
Did all my services per bmw when i got my 05 bleed the brakes and theyve been rock solid amazing brakes but recently the abs reservoir got low so i had to order a gs because wonkey brakes are not acceptable
@BrandonSalas-qm5vu - Yes, amen to that. How long are pads lasting on yours? Cheers!
Thanks for these videos. Very helpful. I have a question about the second tip--when you "wire tie" the brake lever closed over night to eliminate residual air in the system, do you leave the brake fluid reservoir open? Also, do you do a similar technique for the rear brake? (somehow wire tie the rear brake pedal down) Thanks.
@peter shimm - Good questions! I left the cap on but only snug tight until after I cut the wire ties. Then I tightened the cap down all the way. For the rear brake the wire ties don't work so easily (nice catch!). I wedged a tool with a rubber handle between the rear brake and frame. You could also try a small piece of wood.
I have seen several videos on brake flushing (Jim Bade is one of the most reputable) that show performing the bleed process after removing the calipers (front and rear) and placing wooden or plastic shims to spread the pads to remove the old fluid from the calipers, I noticed you are not doing that. Is it not necessary or overkill? Thanks - good video!
@John Tyler - Great point. Technically that method of pushing the pads (the caliper piston) forces most of the brake fluid sitting in the caliper, so that would be a more thorough method for sure. I didn't do that in my video because of the extra work, my original plan was to do that when I change out the brake pads. But I'm on year 4 now and have not had to change the pads out yet, so I really should do that sooner than later. I think the main point of changing out the brake fluid is to remove any moisture in the brake line which could cause corrosion (brake fluid being hydroscopic). Is it necessary every year? I would think not but certainly every two years would be reasonable. Thanks for the comment, I will address this in my next follow up video!
Thanks! Very reasonable approach!
Thanks two great videos. I want to change the fluid in my 2008 GS and was horrified to read in The Haynes Manual that this needs to be done by a main dealer. Thats big bucks here in the UK but having now watched your videos I feel that I can do it myself. Its still going to be big bucks though as I will need to buy the GS 911 but at least I can use it for other things. Thanks again & stay safe. Ted
Thanks for the comment! I also have the Haynes manual and I find it difficult to follow myself. The illustrations are not the best either. You won't regret purchasing the GS911, very useful tool. Good luck with the work!
@@zooskifilms Thank you.
The '08 is a hex head, and the process may be different. Specifically, there is a mysterious hose with a zerk nipple at its end which comes off the ABS unit. I have only seen speculation (no word from BMW) that that is a port for assisting in clearing/draining/flushing the ABS unit itself. Sorry I can't offer more than to say that the process in this video is SPECIFICALLY for the LC versions, although the concepts are largely the same; of particular note is that that buzzing sound during the ABS flush cycle is a device BMW added to clear up problems with lever sponginess in the LC bikes and it therefore will not be part of the '05-'09 series of GS.
For guidance, check JVB Productions (Jim Von Baden) for a great series of GS maintenance videos.
@@SuperBardley Thanks for taking the time to reply with so much information I appreciate it a lot
The GS 911 will save you money. Its $400 US and I was able to diagnose a failed ABS unit in like 2 seconds. And zooskifilms videos will make it easy to do.
Hey mate, I've had my breakpads (GS 1200) closed on disks and levers very hard, Do you think it's because my brake fluid needs to be changed or it's an ABS problem?
After 1 minute with key fob away everything went unlocked.
Thanks for the response
@Jérémy Herraez - I doubt it is related to needing a brake fluid change, unless the fluid level was extremely low. Even then I would tend to think the brakes would be soft and spongy. It definitely sounds like an ABS issue. Just a few questions: has it happened more than once? What year is your bike? Only the front brakes? Do you have the GS911 diagnostic tool? Overall a good first step might be to flush and bleed the brakes and ABS unit (in the first version of this video series).
@@zooskifilms awesome thanks heaps for your answer. Yes the level was very low and I’ve added more Dot4. Now it seems all good. Well, as per you I should flush and replace all fluid just in case? My gs is from 2015
@@jeremyherraez8125 - Yeah, if you haven't done it before it's probably overdue. Curious why the level got so low, other than if the brake pads are completely worn. In which case you should check them, if not already. No fluid leak anywhere around the bike (particularly up front where the ABS unit is)?
@@zooskifilms I haven’t because I have recently purchased this bike so I’m assuming previous owner didn’t replace brake fluid. No leak at all . He must has changed break pads without adding more fluid I guess. Hoping it’s not related with abs. Going to flush it and I’ll see if it does happen again. Hoping not. Thanks for enlightening me mate, appreciate it.
@@jeremyherraez8125 - Ok, understood. Let us know how it turns out. Cheers!
Unfortunately I broke a bango ok my front brake line . I have replaced it and bled it but there is no pressure on the lever and it pulls back to the bar . Can you help ?
@Uncle travelling Matt - Ouch, sorry to hear. Were you able to bleed the ABS using the GS911? I assume when you broke the bolt all the brake fluid bled out? Feel free to DM me, my email is in my Channels about page.
What if you are not replacing the hoses but stripping down the callipers? Does that count?
@ArcanePath360 - Thanks for your question. That wouldn't count, you're not touching the ABS unit or hoses connected to it. In every case it is recommended to test out your ABS afer the brake servicing, just to be sure. You don't want to find out there's an issue when you really need them. Thanks for watching!
@@zooskifilms Thanks. I'm still torn on if I should get the Motoscan tool to do an ABS flush and service reset. Not sure I can justify the price at about £130.
Since I stripped down the callipers and restored them my brakes are so much better now. There was all kinds of white gunk and ports blocked with crusty lumps of it, so maybe I should do a purge to be safe as you say. It hasn't activated in years.
Not sure what else the app is useful for. It says it lists fault codes, but I can't find any info on what the codes would look like or how to interpret them. Everyone only ever talks about clearing them.
@@ArcanePath360 - Glad to hear you were able to make some progress. The HEX GS911 will show all of the features once you open the software. Not sure if it provides more details on the error codes. I probably should make another video showing the process of checking error codes and what do with them, aside from clearing them.
@@zooskifilms I'd be very interested in that. I can't find anything else online. Everyone always either mentions the ABS purge or clearing the service reminder. I would like to know what else it can do before I spend that kind of money on something that isn't a necessity as far as I can tell
@ArcanePath360 - Understood. I've added it to my list and hope to get to it soon! Cheers.
Flushing the ABS pump ensures new fluid throughout the system and removes moisture caused by old fluid. I see the M22 sticker. Are you out of MI?
Yes sir, Allendale, just west of Grand Rapids. Are you a Michigander?
@@zooskifilms I'm in Lake Orion. Different question.....does your GS have TPMS? My 2016 RT w/ 54k miles has TPMS and it has a mind of it's own now. Works when it wants to (front & back), no low battery warning, GS-911 shows interference faults, can't manually wake them with wake up tool. Dealer says 10 years on batteries but I'm reading 5 - 7. I'm thinking it's battery issues........... Mark
@@markmcguire7988 - yes, mine does have TPMS, but no issues thus far (~12,800 miles). Interesting on the interference faults. My first reaction would be battery as well. I'm curious if you changed your phone recently? Or added anything else to the bike that has wifi or other potential radio waves that might be causing the interference? Other things I've read are corrosion or high mileage (working more), which you are at - 4x's what I have. That is (the battery) most likely it! Let me know what you finally figure out. And drop me a note next time you're in west MI!
I did a front brake bleeding on my f800gs. Only clean fluid comes out of my hoses, no air. Still looks like some air is trapped in the system. When I press the brake lever this happens: th-cam.com/video/bPuovH6saew/w-d-xo.html. Can this be fixed by doing the abs pump bleeding procedure (motoscan?). Thanks for the video. I you have advise for me, I would appreciate it a lot.
@beatsmarttie5777 - Are there air bubbles when you do that or is that fluid coming back into the reservoir, hard to say from the video. If it's air, I would first suggest cracking the reservoir lid open a little (not off), and then tie the brake lever in the closed/pressed position and let it sit overnight (the longer the better). This will allow any air bubble up into the reservoir. If there's no air, just fluid coming back up, that is normal (at least on my R1200GS). See the first video in this series, the link to the section where you can see what the brake fluid does in the reservoir when you pump the handle: th-cam.com/video/9kmEwehxFXY/w-d-xo.html
@@zooskifilms I used the traditional method for bleeding. Hose with a container. Open the bleeder up squeeze brake close the bleeder screw, slowly release brake. Until clean fluid came out without air bubbles. I put my own case on TH-cam: th-cam.com/users/shortsKspC1mhjjk8?feature=share
Here's one that has me stumped. 2016 r1200rt 70k miles. About 3k miles ago I noticed that my windshield has about 1/2 inch of slop when it is up 3/4 to full. Meaning it doesn't extend all the way. I have pulled everything about, cleaned and lubed everything, i.e. control arms, springs, brackets etc. I have noticed that the motor hesitates for a quick second about 3/4 up and that's when the slop starts. However, it does not do this without the weight of the windshield on. I have recalibrated with the GS-911 several times (with shield on) but it doesn't fix it.
Dealerships say they have not seen this problem. Has anyone else experienced this?
@mark mcguire - So it's a 1/2 inch short of reaching the full extension? Mine is the GSA so my windshield height adjustment is manual, but it definitely has some slack in the movement, especially at the taller position. I looked at the microfiche for the RT model and it only shows the complete assembly. I assume there is a gear on the motor that meshes with a gear on the shaft that's connected to brackets on both sides. Probably made of plastic and has some wear on the teeth when it's at 3/4 to full height position. Anyway to open that up and see where the motor mates with the shaft? Sorry couldn't be more help!
@@zooskifilms Thanks for the reply. The motor is moving the lower arms all the way up but then it has slack. Maybe worn gears or perhaps fatigue in the springs and they aren't holding it up. Prior to 2014 LC you could order individual parts but you are right, now it only shows the whole assembly..........for $750! BMW Detroit and BMW SEM had no ideas but I can't believe I'm the first with this issue. May drive out to BMW GR where I bought it and see if they have any input. Thanks again.
@@markmcguire7988 - I bought mine at BMW GR. I'm in Allendale MI. Look me up if you make the trip over. Ride safe!
What I am hearing is that we live in the 20th century, own a high-tech BMW, yet have to deal with an inferior brake fluid technology that needs flushing every 2 years! I doubt dealers flush the brake fluids of bikes they have on their floor for over a year or two.
Question: Is it best to use a vacuum pump or mechanical method for this task?
I would agree with that. It seems there is a related sense of safety factor when it comes to motorcycle maintenance, especially the brakes. I assume the potential failure in a brake system due to old brake fluid is rusting of the brake circuit, mainly the brake piston in the caliper due to a hydroscopic effect. Perhaps this is only a worst case scenario not everyone will experience. For me personally I don’t mind doing this maintenance, but if it is not necessary I’d be ok with not having to do it. To your question, if you don’t install speed bleeders, the vacuum pump would be a better method than pumping the brakes and manually open/close the valves. I’ve always had some issues with air in the line doing it that way. Perhaps it was the way I was doing it. Good luck and let us know what method you go with.
@@zooskifilms I have used the vacuum pump method on my KTM dirt bike and I did so after 5 years and not 2 years like what BMW suggests and I had to because the brake fluid was brown!! BMW just recalled their front calipers and that will be left with the dealer to flush. Interesting how BMW decided to save a little by going with Hayes calipers up front and Brembo in the rear, a bad business decision to mix different calipers and now they have recalled over 9,000 2019 and 2020 bikes. I doubt I will buy another BMW motorcycle again, I even sold my BMW 5 series automobile when recycled parts on it started to break apart. I think BMW is ditching quality...
@@ironhorsegladiator5034 Yes, unfortunate, tough to make up the bad rep when trying to save a few bucks. I tend to wait a few years after a new mode is released for these reasons. Need time to work out kinks. Cheers!
The reason you need to use the GS911 is to adjitate the fluid in the ABS pump module. You can bleed it without it, but the fluid in the pump doesn’t get pushed through the system. As for vacuum v mechanical - mechanical is fine and there is no need for a vacuum. I do a mini flush every six months using the mechanical method. No need for speed bleeders. Just run the hose into a bottle with fluid in the bottom. Make sure the hose is in the fluid, crack the bleeder and pump away.
@D. W. - great point, thanks for sharing!
Hi, i have problem with my 2015 gs rear brake, after bleeding the entire system using gs11 and all lines it will work for a day and then not working again after few hours of riding, there is no leaks on the lines and rear master cyclinder were replaced already. Ive noticed there is a lot of air bubbles on the line when bleeding but i dont know where is this coming from, ABS works great and no alarms on dash, the dealer said it could be the abs module but its 2000 usd. I really dont know whats happening with the rear brake system now. Pls help.thanks
Is the rear brake not functioning at all? What happens when you connect the GS911 now and run the ABS pump? I’ll check my service manual to see if there are any other suggestions, but it could be the ABS unit. I would assume you would see some malfunction now when you try to run the pump through the service function.
@@zooskifilms hi, my rear brake has very little pressure on it that the pedal is almost all the way down but still able to stop the rear wheel when on center stand and no weight. But i think in a few days it will loose the rear brake at all just like last time. There is no malfunction when insert the gs911, it says 100% status normal when being bleed and brakes working well but after 1 hour of riding it will loose pressure again and pedal allway down again like no pressure. I did also leak test and all is normal. Also when bleeding, the air bubbles is quite plenty and takes time beforeit disaappears.thank you.
@nagma2 - I checked the service manual and not much in there other than it says if the ABS unit is in fault the ABS light will remain on. In your case I assume the light is ON when you start the bike, but then disappears after getting above 5mph? Have you tried turning ABS OFF completely? I am also curious if you put the bike on the center stand and rotate the front wheel, press the rear brake, does the front wheel stop or slow down? The reason I ask is in case your bike has integrated brakes, perhaps there is some backflow when pressing the rear brake (not sure if there is a check valve or something stuck). If there is no leak, the fluid must be going somewhere. Also, if you have that much air in your line, something must be introducing it. Any chance you can video or audio record the ABS bleeding process with GS 911? It would be interesting to listen to how yours sounds. Finally, are you using speed bleeders for your brake line bleeds or another method?
@@zooskifilms hi, i only borrow the 911 to my friend and its quite far from home but im pretty sure the sound is normal while bleeding, just an update i have tried to put weight on my rear brake on overnight and now it shows additional pressure on the rear unlike yesterday but still way down than normal, i will try to ride it again and see the results. When on center stand i have move the front wheel and applied rear brake and still the front is rolling normally and not slowing down. I will update you after i ride again if the rear brake will improve.thanks
This is known problem, that appears to be the Nissin rear master cylinder. Here''s a link to ADVRider that goes through the issue (many pages worth) and what people have tried to improve the situation.
advrider.com/f/threads/bmw-r1200gs-lc-rear-brake-failures.1264712/page-9
Abs
@riccardo fabbri - yes, ABS......