I can feel the frustation Dan, but hang in there. I think I see the perfectionist in you, so don't let the missing bolts, tight fits, and oil pan SNAFU drag you down. You'll someday look back on this and laugh because it's all more than worth it! You have to be brave just to own a GT40, and be super brave to build one.
Why this build hasn't blown up You Tube I don't know. Keep up the awesome (very detailed) work. It is truly inspiring. Super pumped on the upcoming drivetrain fitment!
One really big positive you have is a car that many hundreds, if not thousands of people worldwide have already built this car. So you can look to them, even though they won't necessarily have the exact kit you have. It's always good to get some ideas from those who have already been there and screwed up before you. If I was building this I would 100% go with a dry sump over wet sump. Rids you of any ground clearance issues. So if it isn't too expensive (I have no idea what the cost would be sorry) I highly recommend you consider that as a couple of others have mentioned. With regards the gear box, as someone else mentioned take some time to watch Dan Dulac. He is building an Ultima with a Lamborghini V10 and the same box as you. Again taking ideas and lessons from others. Now onto the manufacturer and their kit. It no longer surprises me the amount of items, either incorrect items or just straight up missing parts, with this kit. As you say, you paid a ton of money for it as a complete, everything needed to build straight out of the box, car. Sure it is reasonable to expect to do some fettling but what you have shown so far is pretty ridiculous. Again as someone else said, if you don't know a great deal about engines, find someone who does and then learn. Anyway, it's great to see you have had some progress and one good thing with your series that sadly won't help you or make you feel any better, is that it can and will help others by showing them why they shouldn't use the same manufacturer. Word of mouth spreads like wildfire in the car scene. All the best.
If it was easy Dan then everyone would have one..... Patients and looking at pictures of the finished Car should help you make it to the end.... Great work done very well.... :-)))
I love your dedication to this project Dan. If this was me, I'd have chucked some fuel in the tanks in episode 3 and sat back chugging beers wondering why it wouldn't start. You sir, are an inspiration
Woah what an engine! It definitely suits this car- gonna be burning rubber in no time! I do hope you go to a few car shows with this, I'd honestly consider travelling to wherever if you bring this car! ♥
I 100% agreed with you. A complete kit should be complete. You’ve also seemed to have had to do way more fitment mods than I would have anticipated for a kit like this
The Gen1 Coyote had both exhaust manifolds and I never saw an explanation as to why later generations only had one. Not that it mattered as I built my own tubular setup anyway. I was going to comment on rotating the intake manifold on the Gen3 Coyote ... then I got to that bit in the video 😉. They do a remote oil filter take-off kit which gives flexibility in filter and cooler location (M-6881-M50A is a Gen2 part number so I suggest you do some research before buying/fitting).
In the US that’s the drive side, so they may intentionally leave that header off so you can work around or through the steering shaft and extension from the bulkhead to the steering rack…just a wild guess tho!! Cheers from 🇺🇸
Another interesting episode Dan. I think you want to bolt up all you can onto the engine before installing it. It will always be a lot easier with the engine out of the, easier to move around. I would also seriously consider removing the rear fire wall, you're going to want to have as much space as possible during install considering all the issues you've had. Best of luck, Rick.
G'day Rick, I recall reading that although awkward once the engine is installed, it might be best to install A/C and alternator once engine is in place as it will provide more clearance to manipulate the motor into the chassis... I'll see how I go on the test fit... still waiting for me alternator and A/C kit to arrive from the US.
Nice setup, the Coyote is a true cammer motor with lots of power. I have a gen 3 in my Mustang, don’t hesitate to rev it ,this motor makes its power in the high rpm’s .
I guess largely due to cost of dry sump setup (gotta draw the line somewhere in terms of budget) and I don't intend building this engine to make high power output (500-600hp is the aim long term), nor do I intend to track it regularly...
Dan, I have been following your build with great interest. I was surprised to see that you are not getting the support from the kit manufacturer. You are doing an awesome job re-engineering the parts where needed. I do believe that the project will come together as you move forward. I have built two race cars in my past and the sense of accomplishment is well worth the effort in the end.
Really enjoying the build, frustrations and all. You are doing a great job and I always look forward to the next episode. Only wish I could be building one as well.
I would strongly recommend going with a different intake. I would go with a boss or a CJ intake. These intakes don't have all the junk attached and will be better suited for that motor. Not only power wise but also taking advantage of the RPMs. A popular swap on Gen 1 coyotes is actually swapping the Gen 3 intakes and just using lockouts and deleting all the junk off the back, maybe do that and send that gen 1 back and save some money. Either way though I think you will need a tune.
Thanks for the suggestions Matthew. I need to keep the intake stock for emissions/engineering. Have just wrapped up filming the next episode looking at test fitting the Gen 1 and Gen 3 intakes. Neither bolt straight up when spun round 180 degrees (even the Gen 1 without the CMCV.) I might need to look at a custom spacer/adapter.
Hi Dan, it's great to watch your build progressing! It is funny that you mention the 'complete' kit issue. I had the same problem with a Cobra kit from the same manufacturer a few years ago. Don't look to Consumer Affairs in Queensland for any assistance - they are totally ineffectual and have a very skewed idea of what the word complete means! Someone should buy them a decent dictionary! 🤷🤔🤨 When I received my kit there was something like $8,000 -10,000 worth of parts missing - the manufacturer insisted I pay him to make my kit complete... I sold the incomplete, complete kit and someone else made it work. I must be a tight arse too! Best wishes with your build Dan!
G'day Tony, that sucks to hear, and unfortunately I hear similar stories quite often. So far they have generally come good with supplying the missing / correct parts for my build. Just a very slow process to resolve. Did you end up building a Cobra in the end? (From another manufacturer)
@@BuiltbyDan - I hope it works out right mate! I shelved the car build for now. I moved to motorbikes and boating! Enjoy your build, she looks awesome so far 👏 👌
We modified our intake on the Gen 2 to delete the variable intake runners. It worked for flipping the intake 180, but we changed our mind as the exhaust was very close to the intake, so we are currently machining billet aluminium to make an adaptor to Genvey 50mm throttle bodies.
Thanks for sharing your approach to resolving the intake issue! Have been thinking I might look into what is required to do the CMCV delete on the Gen 3.
Great video series, I dont have any intention of building one of these but if I did. I wouldn’t buy a kit from them even though they are based only 10 km from my house. Just watching because it is interesting and you’re doing a great job.👍
Nice, been looking forward to a new episode of your build! There is no way that you are being difficult in regards to what you have paid for, in regards to a "complete kit". No matter what was paid, you should have all of the parts needed as was sold to you, the fact that something is missing is terrible customer service, this company should be bending over backwards to get you the missing parts, if not, you are well within your right to take them to task about it. You should stand your ground, make them get you every single part missing as your build goes along. If you need a bolt to continue mock-up, for sure get a suitable temporary part then replace after break-down. I would keep a record of every missing part, the cost, your time, mileage wear, and fuel and then demand compensation from them. As an example, I have a 2004 F150 that had a smallest of a drip on a rear diff pinion seal, I took it to Ford to get fixed, the next weekend the diff broke, they forgot to torque the pinion nut, it destroyed the gears. 5 years, 8 repairs later it was finally repaired by a competent tech who didn't make an error repairing it. Bearing cap nuts not tight, no alignment shims installed, etc, etc. They tried to blame me for the damages each time, I kept telling the BS, the truck barely puts on 10K a year in mileage, no way it was me, each time they took it apart, they saw their incompetence. A master tech from Ford had to come out on the last breakdown, and I was proven right with the fact they didn't replace the trac lock discs, I told them it would fail and it did, the master tech told them as such, having being contaminated by the previous breakdown. I held them to task, made them repair it each time it was not done properly and broke again, now that rear diff is worth more in parts and labour than the entire vehicle, at anywhere from $3k to $4-$5k (their cost so they say, vs. retail, I costed it one time as they would not list part or labour cost on the bill) it was a costly education for them, but I paid for a proper repair and I should not expect anything less. Stay strong! Looking forward to your next update.😎
Dan do yourself a favour install as much as you can on the engine before installing the engine easier on the stand than leaning over the back of the car that way you can cross any hurdels as you go that said really enjoy the build are you going to put a skid plate under the engine and transmission if you are don't forged to put access holes for sump plug etc and the reverse manifold just flip the loom 180 degrees as it will face the main harness towards the firewll and re pin the injector and coil pack wires in the ecu plug then the loom does not need to be cut open cheers glenn
New subscriber here 😀 Spent last two days on and off catching up on all episodes How frustrating some of it must have been with the fitting issues Keep positive and keep up the good work
is there anyway you can find out who the bolt vendor the kit-builder uses? It would be nice on such an expensive project for all of the hardware to match. wishing you all the best from Dallas Texas
I'm not sure, I'd probably have to ask the manufacturer. So far they have come through and supplied missing bolts I have identified previously, so hopefully I can get these ones too.
Thanks for the suggestion! I was thinking of supporting the rear before putting the engine in to make sure its not unbalanced with too much weight to the rear.
@@BuiltbyDan You will still support the rear. Add additional jack stand supports mid-section. You dont want the chassis to flex and/or bow midsection. I've used 12 foot length, 4 X 4 inch boxed steel and jack-stands over the full lengths of the lower rockers to support the whole chassis. Try to keep it as straight and "unbendy" as possible. Chock or fix everything to the floor so nothing moves during any install. Keep up the good work. Your project is certainly an adventure and serious undertaking. Your exisiting dollies appear to be in the right places. Just keep a watchfull eye on the loading on the bulkhead and chassis floor when removing and re-attaching the upper support bars.
I still hope you will elaborate more on why you did buy the Graziano transmission, instead of a Porsche or Audi or even a corvette trans. You said earlier, that one of the reasons was that it is 6-speed, but you can get that easily from Audi as well and at a fraction of the price. I'm also wondering if you can fit the traditional GT40 exhaust snake with this intake?
I actually went with the Graz transaxle based off the manufacturers recommendation. The Porsche transaxles are not cheap and getting harder to source as they are quite popular. Bit of work that needs to be done to them to suit a GT40 application, as I understand it. The Audi O1E trans is a LOT cheaper. I was concerned about how much power they could handle, reliably. The Graz is probably over the top for what I need in terms of the power levels it can handle as a stock transaxle, but to me that provided a level comfort in terms of it's reliability in this application, where I probably wouldn't run much more than 500-600hp.
If I run with the stock intake (rotated 180 degrees) I would probably struggle to run a bundle of snakes style exhaust, but not sure I could use that style of exhaust and still pass emissions/engineering anyway, so I might have to run a more traditional style exhaust header, and then change to a bundle of snakes when I do the 8-stack injection.
Thank-you. I try to upload every 2-3 weeks as I work full time and it can take a couple weekends to complete a step in the build process and then edit the video. I know its been a lot longer than that since I posted last, just had a few other things going on lately and haven't had a lot of time to work on the GT40, or edit videos.
Factory five also miss parts in the kits it’s a common thing with kit car suppliers . They all say you must of lost them to get out of their lack of QR
G'day Tyler, not a dumb question at all... I'll use the Lambo/Audi R8 setup with the starter mounted to the transaxle, it'll then align with the smaller Lambo/Audi clutch pack and ring gear.
The Roaring Forties volume 2 construction manual has a whole chapter on how to modify the Coyote to fit the RF GT40. Obviously, it won't be specific to your Pace kit, but I think there's some info in there that will benefit you. Message me if you want and we'll work out how to get it to you. Dropbox?
Are you keeping a list of items that were not supplied by the kit company, as well as, modifications to the supplied kit parts that you had to make in order for the kit to work? I'm also curious as to whether the kit was designed for a different setup from what you are building and if the kit company provides a different set of parts to accommodate your setup.
I have a long list, and a lot of emails to manufacturer documenting it all. Generally they have eventually come through and supplied the missing or correct parts. I specified my engine and trans combo when I placed the order so they could supply the appropriate parts to suit. This combo was their recommendation! I think the original setup this chassis/kit was designed for was windsor/porsche, they then 'modify' to suit other setups.
I have a genuine Ford GT40 Ricardo transaxle, still sitting in it's factory box, that will bolt straight up to your engine and you'd have no clutch or flywheel issues, six speed, takes huge power and is shorter than the Graziano box.
It wasn't easy for the guys who built the first original gt40. Just be patient, these are some minor issues you are facing . I have been watching since ep3 and the build is going great and will turn out great 👍.
Hi Dan, I'm curious. What are the dimensions of your garage space? I am looking to do a kit car as well, and have an auxiliary shop space I will be using. Just wondering how the space compares to visualize my working area.
Dan.. Dan here California. Building my Cobra has been frustrating but watching you build your car reminds me that we all go through this! Anyway looks awesome. Where in the world are you going to get headers for that?
Thanks Dan. Nice to be reminded we are not the only ones going through the same situations! Headers will need to be custom made, especially given the constraints of this chassis design.
Dan, NOW you're at the part I love the most about fabricating a new car: the Mechanicals. Have you purchased my round-trip airline tickets yet? I'm ready to come over and help you through this phase. First: I accept what you said regarding being a 'mechanic.' Save yourself a lot of time and grief. Find a good machine shop to do all that engine work for you. If you DON'T know what you're doing - and that's not a slur - get someone who does. Have them provide a final product you can drop into the chassis. I'm guessing you'll use this engine as a WET SUMP? I would go dry sump, but that's because I built race cars. OK... 1- I'd dry-fit the gearbox and have everything done there. 2- I'd dry-fit the engine and insure the motor mounts are where they're supposed to be. 3- I'd mate the engine/gearbox and dry-fit them into the chassis and insure they WILL FIT, when the time comes to make that actual installation. 4- Once you KNOW everything's going to fit, send the engine off to the machine shop. Now, install the wiring, brake, coolant, EVERYTHING that needs to go into the chassis BEFORE you do a final installation of the drivetrain. If you think things are tight now, wait until that big hole is filled with a drivetrain! Get rid of the Spyder for now... it'll only get in the way, and you don't want to damage it. Last thing: WHEN you "Vaporlock" because it isn't working, turn off the lights, go in the house, and fix yourself a martini. (My preference for when you fly me over..., Bombay Sapphire, extra dry & dirty, shaken, not stirred, and served with three olives in a frozen glass). When you find your 'square bolt won't fit in the round hole,' knock off for the day, and hit it fresh tomorrow. That feeling you encounter (and I've been there and done that), is like a 'street bully' going one-on-one with Tyson or Ali... It's a fight you ain't gonna win, son! Enjoy the build... don't let it win this round............
Thanks Carl - appreciate your words of advice! As for the tickets, they must have got lost in the mail... I'll buy another one and try sending again! 😂😆😂
You could have told more about the motor for those of us who are not mustang experts. 🤔 ie; displacement, compression ratio, injection, features etc. Looks like a dual overhead cam but that is about all I know from watching the vid. By the way I'm not trying to sound negative, it just helps for people who might just catch one of your vids and didnt see previous vids where you might already have explained it. 👍
Dan, I am assuming you are in Vic. If so please double check with your engineer and get your engineer to check with VicRoads about the emissions status of your plan. We have had instances of VicRoads wanting confirmation of the exact Australian delivered vehicle (ie a vin) that the engine is coming from for deem to comply. Because you are using a crate engine you will not have that info and will be required to do an emissions test.
Thanks Tim, have spoken to engineer and they were not concerned about using the crate engine. They have had Cobra's engineered and registered under the deemed to comply provisions using crate engines.
Not a tight arse at all, you paid for the thing, it’s up for the supplier include everything that should’ve been there from the start. I wouldn’t be recommending them at all, as it’s been a stuff up from the start on their side.
@@BuiltbyDan I don't like the fact the kit doesn't come with instructions and the interior looks unfinished. Particularly under the dash. Everything looks so exposed due to lack of panels.
Dan do you have a Dyno Company close by? Why because my fiend Dan Dulac has spent the better part of two weeks tuning his Lamborghini and the same trans-axle tuned. Lots of deleting of codes.
It's already a tall engine thanks to it being dual overhead cam's , I can't understand why they didn't go with a flat oil pan like the Corvette . Thanks to dual overhead cam's and a over complicated valve train , a 5 liter Ford engine is bigger and heavier than GM's 7 liter engine is already . It's not a truck engine where packaging is easy , it's meant to go in a Sports car where packaging is a pretty big deal .
Technically this one will be stock (initially), stock crate motor run on stock ECU. I'll also need to use stock air box (could be interesting) and catalytic converters for emissions compliance, etc.
Please tell me Ford isn't expecting you to BUY another exhaust manifold. It's just in another box right? If not, better look inside and make sure there are 8 pistons. LOL.
G'day Professor - no other box with the missing manifold. Unfortunately, need to purchase other side separately, they sure know how to make a dollar! But not such an issue for me because those manifolds are useless for a GT40 application (although the flange where it mounts to the block might have been handy as a starting point for a custom header setup).
da if your in sydney reach out to bennys custom works he should be able to steer you in the right direction on some of your troubles he has a youtube channel
Apologies, I wasn't overly happy with how that came out myself. I've actually just purchased a GoPro for more of that hand held camera work as the stabilisation during the recording process is much better!
I can feel the frustation Dan, but hang in there. I think I see the perfectionist in you, so don't let the missing bolts, tight fits, and oil pan SNAFU drag you down. You'll someday look back on this and laugh because it's all more than worth it! You have to be brave just to own a GT40, and be super brave to build one.
Thanks Bob. These supportive comments definitely help keep my head in the right space and focussed. Appreciate the support.
Why this build hasn't blown up You Tube I don't know. Keep up the awesome (very detailed) work. It is truly inspiring. Super pumped on the upcoming drivetrain fitment!
ur prolly the main reason why I wanna do this in the future. I'll be taking notes and learning from ur build, Keep it up Dan!
Thanks Justin, I love hearing that my build has inspired others to pursue their dream build. I hope you get to fulfil your dream in the future!
One really big positive you have is a car that many hundreds, if not thousands of people worldwide have already built this car. So you can look to them, even though they won't necessarily have the exact kit you have. It's always good to get some ideas from those who have already been there and screwed up before you.
If I was building this I would 100% go with a dry sump over wet sump. Rids you of any ground clearance issues. So if it isn't too expensive (I have no idea what the cost would be sorry) I highly recommend you consider that as a couple of others have mentioned.
With regards the gear box, as someone else mentioned take some time to watch Dan Dulac. He is building an Ultima with a Lamborghini V10 and the same box as you. Again taking ideas and lessons from others.
Now onto the manufacturer and their kit. It no longer surprises me the amount of items, either incorrect items or just straight up missing parts, with this kit. As you say, you paid a ton of money for it as a complete, everything needed to build straight out of the box, car. Sure it is reasonable to expect to do some fettling but what you have shown so far is pretty ridiculous. Again as someone else said, if you don't know a great deal about engines, find someone who does and then learn.
Anyway, it's great to see you have had some progress and one good thing with your series that sadly won't help you or make you feel any better, is that it can and will help others by showing them why they shouldn't use the same manufacturer. Word of mouth spreads like wildfire in the car scene.
All the best.
Thanks Craig! Will check out Dan Dulac's build.
Finally! Another episode of built by Dan ❤️
If it was easy Dan then everyone would have one..... Patients and looking at pictures of the finished Car should help you make it to the end.... Great work done very well.... :-)))
I look at that coyote engine and think to myself how spectacular the acceleration would be if you had a 3.8 Whipple supercharger on top🤔
Coming along nicely Dan
At this point a Caterham is looking real good!
Every days a school day, good luck tackling the engine.
I love your dedication to this project Dan. If this was me, I'd have chucked some fuel in the tanks in episode 3 and sat back chugging beers wondering why it wouldn't start. You sir, are an inspiration
Keep it up Dan......waiting for the day of the engine start-up !!
Woah what an engine! It definitely suits this car- gonna be burning rubber in no time! I do hope you go to a few car shows with this, I'd honestly consider travelling to wherever if you bring this car! ♥
Love the build Dan keep your chin up mate it will be worth it in the end.
Really enjoy watching your videos.
Glad you like them! Thanks for the support.
I 100% agreed with you. A complete kit should be complete. You’ve also seemed to have had to do way more fitment mods than I would have anticipated for a kit like this
Love the videos. Hopefully the manufacturer watches your videos and fixes their process. And give you a discount
Really enjoying following this build, All the best moving forward
My dream build. I can see having a ton of issues just the same. But thats part of it, personalizing and knowing every little inch.
The Gen1 Coyote had both exhaust manifolds and I never saw an explanation as to why later generations only had one. Not that it mattered as I built my own tubular setup anyway.
I was going to comment on rotating the intake manifold on the Gen3 Coyote ... then I got to that bit in the video 😉.
They do a remote oil filter take-off kit which gives flexibility in filter and cooler location (M-6881-M50A is a Gen2 part number so I suggest you do some research before buying/fitting).
Thanks Peter, I picked up a remote oil filter kit and remote oil cooler kit from Mishimoto recently, just waiting for it all to arrive.
In the US that’s the drive side, so they may intentionally leave that header off so you can work around or through the steering shaft and extension from the bulkhead to the steering rack…just a wild guess tho!! Cheers from 🇺🇸
Great series, I'm enjoying it very much. Thank you.
Hey Dan good to hear from you. The missing exhaust manifold has the Cat attached so is quite long so they leave it out so it fits in the box
Another interesting episode Dan. I think you want to bolt up all you can onto the engine before installing it. It will always be a lot easier with the engine out of the, easier to move around. I would also seriously consider removing the rear fire wall, you're going to want to have as much space as possible during install considering all the issues you've had. Best of luck, Rick.
G'day Rick, I recall reading that although awkward once the engine is installed, it might be best to install A/C and alternator once engine is in place as it will provide more clearance to manipulate the motor into the chassis... I'll see how I go on the test fit... still waiting for me alternator and A/C kit to arrive from the US.
@@BuiltbyDan I'm looking forward to the install episode. That engine sure looks...big...and the engine bay looks...tight😆. A fun episode awaits.
If the manufacturer sells it as complete, I want my hardware too. Good on ya!
Exciting Dan....
Nice setup, the Coyote is a true cammer motor with lots of power. I have a gen 3 in my Mustang, don’t hesitate to rev it ,this motor makes its power in the high rpm’s .
Great build Dan ! Looking good. All the best.
Can't wait for the car to finish.
form thailand.
Enjoying your work Dan. Looking forward the next instalment.
Ok, engine/oil pan question… why did not elect to go with the shallow oil pan vs a dry sump system? It seems to me that would be a better way to go…
I guess largely due to cost of dry sump setup (gotta draw the line somewhere in terms of budget) and I don't intend building this engine to make high power output (500-600hp is the aim long term), nor do I intend to track it regularly...
At this point I might trust the bolts that you buy yourself rather than the bolts (not) supplied by the manufacturer!
Dan,
I have been following your build with great interest. I was surprised to see that you are not getting the support from the kit manufacturer. You are doing an awesome job re-engineering the parts where needed. I do believe that the project will come together as you move forward. I have built two race cars in my past and the sense of accomplishment is well worth the effort in the end.
Thanks David, appreciate the support.
Really enjoying the build, frustrations and all. You are doing a great job and I always look forward to the next episode. Only wish I could be building one as well.
I would strongly recommend going with a different intake. I would go with a boss or a CJ intake. These intakes don't have all the junk attached and will be better suited for that motor. Not only power wise but also taking advantage of the RPMs. A popular swap on Gen 1 coyotes is actually swapping the Gen 3 intakes and just using lockouts and deleting all the junk off the back, maybe do that and send that gen 1 back and save some money. Either way though I think you will need a tune.
Thanks for the suggestions Matthew. I need to keep the intake stock for emissions/engineering. Have just wrapped up filming the next episode looking at test fitting the Gen 1 and Gen 3 intakes. Neither bolt straight up when spun round 180 degrees (even the Gen 1 without the CMCV.) I might need to look at a custom spacer/adapter.
Love the videos!! Can’t wait to see that thing come to life with that motor and trans!
Hi Dan, it's great to watch your build progressing! It is funny that you mention the 'complete' kit issue. I had the same problem with a Cobra kit from the same manufacturer a few years ago. Don't look to Consumer Affairs in Queensland for any assistance - they are totally ineffectual and have a very skewed idea of what the word complete means! Someone should buy them a decent dictionary! 🤷🤔🤨 When I received my kit there was something like $8,000 -10,000 worth of parts missing - the manufacturer insisted I pay him to make my kit complete... I sold the incomplete, complete kit and someone else made it work. I must be a tight arse too! Best wishes with your build Dan!
G'day Tony, that sucks to hear, and unfortunately I hear similar stories quite often. So far they have generally come good with supplying the missing / correct parts for my build. Just a very slow process to resolve.
Did you end up building a Cobra in the end? (From another manufacturer)
@@BuiltbyDan - I hope it works out right mate! I shelved the car build for now. I moved to motorbikes and boating! Enjoy your build, she looks awesome so far 👏 👌
We modified our intake on the Gen 2 to delete the variable intake runners. It worked for flipping the intake 180, but we changed our mind as the exhaust was very close to the intake, so we are currently machining billet aluminium to make an adaptor to Genvey 50mm throttle bodies.
Thanks for sharing your approach to resolving the intake issue! Have been thinking I might look into what is required to do the CMCV delete on the Gen 3.
Great video series, I dont have any intention of building one of these but if I did. I wouldn’t buy a kit from them even though they are based only 10 km from my house. Just watching because it is interesting and you’re doing a great job.👍
Thanks for the support!
Nice, been looking forward to a new episode of your build!
There is no way that you are being difficult in regards to what you have paid for, in regards to a "complete kit".
No matter what was paid, you should have all of the parts needed as was sold to you, the fact that something is missing is terrible customer service, this company should be bending over backwards to get you the missing parts, if not, you are well within your right to take them to task about it. You should stand your ground, make them get you every single part missing as your build goes along.
If you need a bolt to continue mock-up, for sure get a suitable temporary part then replace after break-down.
I would keep a record of every missing part, the cost, your time, mileage wear, and fuel and then demand compensation from them.
As an example, I have a 2004 F150 that had a smallest of a drip on a rear diff pinion seal, I took it to Ford to get fixed, the next weekend the diff broke, they forgot to torque the pinion nut, it destroyed the gears. 5 years, 8 repairs later it was finally repaired by a competent tech who didn't make an error repairing it. Bearing cap nuts not tight, no alignment shims installed, etc, etc.
They tried to blame me for the damages each time, I kept telling the BS, the truck barely puts on 10K a year in mileage, no way it was me, each time they took it apart, they saw their incompetence. A master tech from Ford had to come out on the last breakdown, and I was proven right with the fact they didn't replace the trac lock discs, I told them it would fail and it did, the master tech told them as such, having being contaminated by the previous breakdown.
I held them to task, made them repair it each time it was not done properly and broke again, now that rear diff is worth more in parts and labour than the entire vehicle, at anywhere from $3k to $4-$5k (their cost so they say, vs. retail, I costed it one time as they would not list part or labour cost on the bill) it was a costly education for them, but I paid for a proper repair and I should not expect anything less.
Stay strong!
Looking forward to your next update.😎
Dan do yourself a favour install as much as you can on the engine before installing the engine easier on the stand than leaning over the back of the car that way you can cross any hurdels as you go that said really enjoy the build are you going to put a skid plate under the engine and transmission if you are don't forged to put access holes for sump plug etc and the reverse manifold just flip the loom 180 degrees as it will face the main harness towards the firewll and re pin the injector and coil pack wires in the ecu plug then the loom does not need to be cut open cheers glenn
New subscriber here 😀
Spent last two days on and off catching up on all episodes
How frustrating some of it must have been with the fitting issues
Keep positive and keep up the good work
is there anyway you can find out who the bolt vendor the kit-builder uses? It would be nice on such an expensive project for all of the hardware to match. wishing you all the best from Dallas Texas
I'm not sure, I'd probably have to ask the manufacturer. So far they have come through and supplied missing bolts I have identified previously, so hopefully I can get these ones too.
Hope this helps: Support the mid-section of the chassis from below BEFORE removing the rear upper support bars.
Thanks for the suggestion! I was thinking of supporting the rear before putting the engine in to make sure its not unbalanced with too much weight to the rear.
@@BuiltbyDan You will still support the rear. Add additional jack stand supports mid-section. You dont want the chassis to flex and/or bow midsection. I've used 12 foot length, 4 X 4 inch boxed steel and jack-stands over the full lengths of the lower rockers to support the whole chassis. Try to keep it as straight and "unbendy" as possible. Chock or fix everything to the floor so nothing moves during any install. Keep up the good work. Your project is certainly an adventure and serious undertaking. Your exisiting dollies appear to be in the right places. Just keep a watchfull eye on the loading on the bulkhead and chassis floor when removing and re-attaching the upper support bars.
I still hope you will elaborate more on why you did buy the Graziano transmission, instead of a Porsche or Audi or even a corvette trans. You said earlier, that one of the reasons was that it is 6-speed, but you can get that easily from Audi as well and at a fraction of the price. I'm also wondering if you can fit the traditional GT40 exhaust snake with this intake?
I actually went with the Graz transaxle based off the manufacturers recommendation. The Porsche transaxles are not cheap and getting harder to source as they are quite popular. Bit of work that needs to be done to them to suit a GT40 application, as I understand it. The Audi O1E trans is a LOT cheaper. I was concerned about how much power they could handle, reliably. The Graz is probably over the top for what I need in terms of the power levels it can handle as a stock transaxle, but to me that provided a level comfort in terms of it's reliability in this application, where I probably wouldn't run much more than 500-600hp.
If I run with the stock intake (rotated 180 degrees) I would probably struggle to run a bundle of snakes style exhaust, but not sure I could use that style of exhaust and still pass emissions/engineering anyway, so I might have to run a more traditional style exhaust header, and then change to a bundle of snakes when I do the 8-stack injection.
Go Dan !!!
plz upload more often. all the luck
Thank-you. I try to upload every 2-3 weeks as I work full time and it can take a couple weekends to complete a step in the build process and then edit the video. I know its been a lot longer than that since I posted last, just had a few other things going on lately and haven't had a lot of time to work on the GT40, or edit videos.
@@BuiltbyDan great , keep up the good work
Factory five also miss parts in the kits it’s a common thing with kit car suppliers . They all say you must of lost them to get out of their lack of QR
Where is the starter going to be installed and how would it engage the smaller ring gear? (Sorry if this is a dumb question)
G'day Tyler, not a dumb question at all... I'll use the Lambo/Audi R8 setup with the starter mounted to the transaxle, it'll then align with the smaller Lambo/Audi clutch pack and ring gear.
@@BuiltbyDan ah I should have assumed the starter was on the transaxle. Thanks!
The Roaring Forties volume 2 construction manual has a whole chapter on how to modify the Coyote to fit the RF GT40. Obviously, it won't be specific to your Pace kit, but I think there's some info in there that will benefit you. Message me if you want and we'll work out how to get it to you. Dropbox?
Thanks Liam, have reached out on Facebook.
Are you keeping a list of items that were not supplied by the kit company, as well as, modifications to the supplied kit parts that you had to make in order for the kit to work? I'm also curious as to whether the kit was designed for a different setup from what you are building and if the kit company provides a different set of parts to accommodate your setup.
I have a long list, and a lot of emails to manufacturer documenting it all. Generally they have eventually come through and supplied the missing or correct parts.
I specified my engine and trans combo when I placed the order so they could supply the appropriate parts to suit. This combo was their recommendation!
I think the original setup this chassis/kit was designed for was windsor/porsche, they then 'modify' to suit other setups.
I have a genuine Ford GT40 Ricardo transaxle, still sitting in it's factory box, that will bolt straight up to your engine and you'd have no clutch or flywheel issues, six speed, takes huge power and is shorter than the Graziano box.
Wow! That's a nice piece of treasure you have there! Would hate to think what it would be worth though!
@@BuiltbyDan $12k AUS is what its worth.
Thats actually quite reasonable!
What county is gearbox in
Nice cheers
It wasn't easy for the guys who built the first original gt40. Just be patient, these are some minor issues you are facing . I have been watching since ep3 and the build is going great and will turn out great 👍.
Thanks for the support Kavish.
Dan, what other transaxle was available for the kit that would fit the small rear plate? I know you will make it look good.
Thanks mate, the common transaxle that the rear plate cut-out is designed for is the porsche transaxle.
How much does one of these transaxles go for ?
Hi Dan, I'm curious. What are the dimensions of your garage space? I am looking to do a kit car as well, and have an auxiliary shop space I will be using. Just wondering how the space compares to visualize my working area.
G'day Goose. My garage is 6.5m wide x 8.5m deep. (21ft x 28ft)
Dan.. Dan here California. Building my Cobra has been frustrating but watching you build your car reminds me that we all go through this! Anyway looks awesome. Where in the world are you going to get headers for that?
Thanks Dan. Nice to be reminded we are not the only ones going through the same situations! Headers will need to be custom made, especially given the constraints of this chassis design.
Dan, NOW you're at the part I love the most about fabricating a new car: the Mechanicals. Have you purchased my round-trip airline tickets yet? I'm ready to come over and help you through this phase. First: I accept what you said regarding being a 'mechanic.' Save yourself a lot of time and grief. Find a good machine shop to do all that engine work for you. If you DON'T know what you're doing - and that's not a slur - get someone who does. Have them provide a final product you can drop into the chassis. I'm guessing you'll use this engine as a WET SUMP? I would go dry sump, but that's because I built race cars. OK... 1- I'd dry-fit the gearbox and have everything done there. 2- I'd dry-fit the engine and insure the motor mounts are where they're supposed to be. 3- I'd mate the engine/gearbox and dry-fit them into the chassis and insure they WILL FIT, when the time comes to make that actual installation.
4- Once you KNOW everything's going to fit, send the engine off to the machine shop. Now, install the wiring, brake, coolant, EVERYTHING that needs to go into the chassis BEFORE you do a final installation of the drivetrain. If you think things are tight now, wait until that big hole is filled with a drivetrain!
Get rid of the Spyder for now... it'll only get in the way, and you don't want to damage it. Last thing: WHEN you "Vaporlock" because it isn't working, turn off the lights, go in the house, and fix yourself a martini. (My preference for when you fly me over..., Bombay Sapphire, extra dry & dirty, shaken, not stirred, and served with three olives in a frozen glass). When you find your 'square bolt won't fit in the round hole,' knock off for the day, and hit it fresh tomorrow. That feeling you encounter (and I've been there and done that), is like a 'street bully' going one-on-one with Tyson or Ali... It's a fight you ain't gonna win, son! Enjoy the build... don't let it win this round............
Thanks Carl - appreciate your words of advice!
As for the tickets, they must have got lost in the mail... I'll buy another one and try sending again! 😂😆😂
You could have told more about the motor for those of us who are not mustang experts. 🤔
ie; displacement, compression ratio, injection, features etc. Looks like a dual overhead cam but that is about all I know from watching the vid.
By the way I'm not trying to sound negative, it just helps for people who might just catch one of your vids and didnt see previous vids where you might already have explained it. 👍
Thanks for the feedback.
Its a 5.0L DOHC V8 with direct and port fuel injection. 12:1 compression, 460hp (@7,000rpm) and 420ft lb torque (@4,600rpm).
@@BuiltbyDan ... thanks for tbe quick reply, and WOW! What a beast!
That is lots of horsepowers and torques, as Clarkson would say... 👀😎
like it~you did gorgeouss .
This is basically " be aware before buying" series , wouldn't think someone needed to be a engineer to bolt together a expensive kitcar
Dan, I am assuming you are in Vic. If so please double check with your engineer and get your engineer to check with VicRoads about the emissions status of your plan. We have had instances of VicRoads wanting confirmation of the exact Australian delivered vehicle (ie a vin) that the engine is coming from for deem to comply. Because you are using a crate engine you will not have that info and will be required to do an emissions test.
Thanks Tim, have spoken to engineer and they were not concerned about using the crate engine. They have had Cobra's engineered and registered under the deemed to comply provisions using crate engines.
@@BuiltbyDan Dan, glad to hear that it is somewhat sorted. May I ask what VASS you are using?
Dan- Sam here from Perth- have gone thru all issues you are going to have believe me there is a few!!- how do I get in touch with you?
Rgds Sam
G'day Sam, can reach out on Instagram _builtbydan or email address is in the 'About' tab if you go to my channel page 👍
Not a tight arse at all, you paid for the thing, it’s up for the supplier include everything that should’ve been there from the start. I wouldn’t be recommending them at all, as it’s been a stuff up from the start on their side.
Who and where do you buy this kit for the FORD GT 40????
Details are I'm the video description.
Absolute Pace in Queensland Australia 🇦🇺
Will original Ford Gt parts fit?
In terms of engine and transaxle, quite possibly. Anything to do with suspension etc. Won't as this kit has a proprietary design.
@@BuiltbyDan what about interior?
Seats maybe... dash maybe with some modification... not too sure really.
@@BuiltbyDan I don't like the fact the kit doesn't come with instructions and the interior looks unfinished. Particularly under the dash. Everything looks so exposed due to lack of panels.
Where did you get the kit from
Absolute Pace in Queensland Australia 🇦🇺
Dan do you have a Dyno Company close by? Why because my fiend Dan Dulac has spent the better part of two weeks tuning his Lamborghini and the same trans-axle tuned. Lots of deleting of codes.
G'day Dave, was that a manual or e-gear transaxle? I have a mate that has a tuning shop, so hoping he will be able to take care of that!
@@BuiltbyDan Thanks Dan it is the same Trans-Axle you have. Best of Luck
What transaxle is that?
It's a Graziano. Same spec as the V10 Labourghini Gallardo.
It's already a tall engine thanks to it being dual overhead cam's , I can't understand why they didn't go with a flat oil pan like the Corvette . Thanks to dual overhead cam's and a over complicated valve train , a 5 liter Ford engine is bigger and heavier than GM's 7 liter engine is already . It's not a truck engine where packaging is easy , it's meant to go in a Sports car where packaging is a pretty big deal .
Don’t blame you Dan it’s frustrating when you pay all that money and you’re just left with it!
I believe the cat is part of the left hand exhaust manifold. If you ordered without cats, you wouldn't get that manifold.
Ah ok, that makes sense. Thanks for sharing that insight!
Yes sir you are dead right- l/h side is factory connected to headers
If the officer asks if you tuned your engine, but you built it, can you say its stock?
Technically this one will be stock (initially), stock crate motor run on stock ECU. I'll also need to use stock air box (could be interesting) and catalytic converters for emissions compliance, etc.
Please tell me Ford isn't expecting you to BUY another exhaust manifold. It's just in another box right? If not, better look inside and make sure there are 8 pistons. LOL.
G'day Professor - no other box with the missing manifold. Unfortunately, need to purchase other side separately, they sure know how to make a dollar! But not such an issue for me because those manifolds are useless for a GT40 application (although the flange where it mounts to the block might have been handy as a starting point for a custom header setup).
@@BuiltbyDan insanity I say.
Yes. Thank you for choosing a Ford.
It really was the only option in my mind!
da if your in sydney reach out to bennys custom works he should be able to steer you in the right direction on some of your troubles he has a youtube channel
Can you maybe stabilize the video in post process a little bit for future videos? Eyes hurt when you're handling a camera.
Apologies, I wasn't overly happy with how that came out myself. I've actually just purchased a GoPro for more of that hand held camera work as the stabilisation during the recording process is much better!
This Engine Power Coyote build vid might be helpful for you.
th-cam.com/video/RSaPOxXiyHM/w-d-xo.html
Thanks Liam, will check that out!
The manufacturer doesn't seem very helpful or very thorough
Don't do a Google review on the company it ain't good