Just a heads up were ever you have steel, stainless steel or bolts etc meeting aluminium you will need to coat the surface that mates to the aluminium with a compound called Duralac this will stop the aluminium corrosion/ Oxidation caused by 2 dissimilar metal touching
I've raised this multiple times. The whole car is held together with nuts and bolts... it'll be a nightmare of of the less accessible ones rattle loose over time or need to be undone and removed... when he does final assembly rivnuts should be heavily factored in for convenience!
G'day Tobi, I've taken these comments on board. I actually purchased a rivnut tool and and a range of rivnuts to try them out as I'd never used them before. I've trialled them in some steel tube, but concerned about how well they will hold in alloy. I'm just not sure how well the ribbed section that clamps down on the surrounding alloy will hold... I'll keep experimenting before committing to using them in the final assembly.
@@BuiltbyDan hey bro, oit of curiosity you ever watched another TH-camr called Rob05 o think his name is? An Aussie guy building I think was an Ultima? Super super smart dude anyway and a good laugh. He used them quite a bit... I think you can get different rivnuts for different material too... look into it bro. I just worry with your eye for detail and you wanting for this to be perfect that the nut and bolt situation could be a massive pain in your ass... even if you can only use them on non structural components might provide a good starting point... and as a minimum some lock tight on the stuff you need to never come loose or perhaps having captive nuts welded to the structure for things you may need to get access to in the future but will struggle to get at both sides for... Regardless great series bro and I plan to build the exact same thing at some stage!
Hey Dan, I just want to say that this might be the best series on TH-cam. I really enjoy it and I want to thank you so much for documenting all of this. Have a great rest of your week.
Hey Dan, I'm really enjoying your build. One thing you might consider is using Nut-Serts instead of regular nuts. Once the car is finished you will never be able to gat at the back side to remove a Nut & Bolt for service.
I came across this build and started watching it. Been very good all in all but the one thing I noticed and I don't now if anyone mentioned it to you but some of those hard to reach places, I think rivet nuts (riv-nuts) would be Ideal. Then you wouldn't have to fiddle with having enough access space in the rear of some of the areas like shown in this video with the over flow bottle/tank mounting.
slowly comes together! nice job again! I would eliminate the rubber hose and purge hose with a nice SS or cooper line and route it on both sides as you did on the overflow tank. How will you access that isolation valve and the fuel filters, once the motor is in again? Another thought I had, was the following. If you would relocate the expansion tank to the front compartment, it would do the purpose as well, but you could eliminate that awkward hose from the motor to the tank where you do have not much room already, and that way you would not have to modify your engine access plate as well.
Dan, quick notes here. Push the cross over hose inside an aluminum tube to support it with fewer clamps. On the brake switch, put a 90 degree fitting where the switch is and then put the bottom line into it, then you can put the brake switch in the bottom facing port and clean up the install a bit. Love the build keepup the solid work.
dan i think you are going to get air lock between the 2 tanks as the left tank exits below and then has to travel up and then go down into yhe topside of the right tank before finally screwing down the hose you might want to put some water from tank to tank with the large outlet blocked off on the right hand tank to simulate it being hooked up to your expensive engine and see if it air locks better safe than sorry but the build is coming on well cheers glenn
A suggestion for you would be to pick up a bicycle inner tube and cut it into strips that are just smaller than those bands for the 2 tanks and use super glue to hold the rubber on the inside of the bands so they aren’t visible. The rubber will hold the tanks more solid and not allow them to move due to vibrations from running and driving not only that they won’t get scratched up from the metal on metal contact. On motorcycle exhaust I’ve had to do this trick. The Toyan is a great motor but it’s not 1/10th scale. It’s 1/5th scale. I know of a few people that have put them in 1/5th scale RC cars. They’re pretty cool.
Thanks for the suggestions, I like that idea of using the bicycle tube! Wish I had have seen this earlier today when I was working on the fuel system install, ended up cutting strips out of 1mm compressed rubber to mount the fuel pump and filters, was a bit fiddly to hold it all together as I tightened the hose clamp. Supergluing the bicycle tube would have made it much easier! I might still do that for the tanks. Cheers.
Love following this build. The Coyote is a great choice. Will sound wicked with 180 exhaust. I was thinking, just know where the high point is of the coolant so it can burp out.
G'day Ted, Looking at using nutserts in final assembly. I started out this build not really knowing what I was doing or how it would all come together, so I set out to use the fasteners supplied with the kit and then disassemble once I know everything has a home and do a final assembly. Have purchased some nutserts and install tool. There are some situations where they would work well, but in other scenarios where the back of the nutsert will be exposed on the opposite face of the panel I think a nyloc nut would look better... still got some time to decide...
Hi Dan. Nice work so far! Did you consider bending up a nice hard stainless steel or aluminum tube to replace the rubber overflow cross tube? then just using a short section of rubber each end to join. Great project mate. I scratch built a Cobra a few years ago and still enjoy the driving car today. For me the build is the best part. keep up the great work!
Thanks Nigel, I didn't think of using a stainless hard line actually, but I like that idea! I'll look into what size I will need as I have some stainless hard tube laying around. Great to hear you are enjoying your Cobra build years down the track!
@@BuiltbyDan Just a caution against the use of dissimilar metals in the cooling system. SS and aluminium have differing galvanic properties and this accelerates corrosion. Given your engine is all aluminium, as are your radiator and tanks, I'd recommend non-metalics or stick with all aluminium.
Might I suggest applying anti-chafe tape, behind band clamps, bracket contact points, etc.., to prevent fretting from vibration, and the resulting eventual corrosion.
I would suggest that you gain familiarity with standard general aviation practices, regarding this subject. Better solutions then rubber strips are typically films and tapes, as rubber tends to aggravate flexing and movement, and tends to extrude as it deteriorates. Tapes provide a layer of isolation while still allowing secure attachment. Something like electrical tape and ptfe tape used in powder coating work well. Also might try home built aviation material / part sources. Most any aviation tech or aircraft home builders should be good sources of general practices on this subject, for the parallels in construction of your GT40 with metallic aircraft structures.
That Toyan engine looks cool, excited to see the videos on it! Curious, Is it possible to use some kind of Y-splitter on the tubing runs to incorporate the tubing run from the thermostat? Bottle mounts and tubing runs look great! Appreciate the attention to detail 👍
G'day Jon, the Toyan project has been a fun distraction from some of the challenges on the GT40 build! I considered joining the two lines as you suggested, but based on the manufacturers schematic, it seems the relief line needs to be on the pressurised side, which the overflow is not. I don't know if that's just how they propose to do it, or if it needs to be like that... Will need to seek some mechanical advice on that aspect when I get closer to starting the engine.
Hey Dan great progress. I can’t see why those tanks aren’t mounted together as in the Cobra it seems another point of failure to have such a long hose between them. Have you considered a hard line as if the hose fails it will be a big pain in the butt to replace once the Coyote is installed. Also noticed you reverted to the manual style tap, why not use your fancy new tool?
G'day Peter, not a lot of room to mount both tanks together, at least not with the individual mounts. Have received a few comments about using a hard line, something I will look into. I used the ratcheting tap wrench for all taps in this episode, but found it regularly clicked into locked position, so didn't really get the use of the ratcheting feature!
@@BuiltbyDan You have a manual bleed on the radiator? Consider replacing it with a fitting and a pipe running back to the header tank so that it can continuously vent itself and automatically bleed on filling the system.
You can buy a product from PPG called penatrol it's a protection coating for aluminium you would need to acid wash the aluminium frame work 1st than a light coating rubbed on the aluminium this will stop finger prints, oils etc from staining the surface
Thanks for the suggestion! Still unsure what I am going to do for a coating, but definitely want it to be a clear coating to keep the aluminium look. Will add that to my list of options.
Thanks for sharing that link, was good to visualise another approach/solution to the issue! I actually saw a similar approach using cable to actuate the pedal, but kept the electronic pedal up under the dash, rather than exposed in the engine bay like that example. Confident I'll be able to come up with an alternative solution that will work, whether it be via a fixed link or cable.
Just a heads up were ever you have steel, stainless steel or bolts etc meeting aluminium you will need to coat the surface that mates to the aluminium with a compound called Duralac this will stop the aluminium corrosion/ Oxidation caused by 2 dissimilar metal touching
hello Dan, could you not use riv nuts for the header tank brackets? instead of a nut and bolt, save you trying to squeeze you hand in the wee hole
My thought too.
I've raised this multiple times. The whole car is held together with nuts and bolts... it'll be a nightmare of of the less accessible ones rattle loose over time or need to be undone and removed... when he does final assembly rivnuts should be heavily factored in for convenience!
I'm thinking rivnuts makes life easier.. Thin foam rubber around hose clamps to prevent rubbing
G'day Tobi, I've taken these comments on board. I actually purchased a rivnut tool and and a range of rivnuts to try them out as I'd never used them before. I've trialled them in some steel tube, but concerned about how well they will hold in alloy. I'm just not sure how well the ribbed section that clamps down on the surrounding alloy will hold... I'll keep experimenting before committing to using them in the final assembly.
@@BuiltbyDan hey bro, oit of curiosity you ever watched another TH-camr called Rob05 o think his name is? An Aussie guy building I think was an Ultima? Super super smart dude anyway and a good laugh. He used them quite a bit... I think you can get different rivnuts for different material too... look into it bro. I just worry with your eye for detail and you wanting for this to be perfect that the nut and bolt situation could be a massive pain in your ass... even if you can only use them on non structural components might provide a good starting point... and as a minimum some lock tight on the stuff you need to never come loose or perhaps having captive nuts welded to the structure for things you may need to get access to in the future but will struggle to get at both sides for...
Regardless great series bro and I plan to build the exact same thing at some stage!
Hey Dan, I just want to say that this might be the best series on TH-cam. I really enjoy it and I want to thank you so much for documenting all of this. Have a great rest of your week.
Thanks Will, much appreciated! Glad you are enjoying it.
That gt 40 chassis looks amazing looks done to a high standard thats for sure
Hey Dan, I'm really enjoying your build. One thing you might consider is using Nut-Serts instead of regular nuts. Once the car is finished you will never be able to gat at the back side to remove a Nut & Bolt for service.
I'm definitely considering them for final assembly.
I came across this build and started watching it. Been very good all in all but the one thing I noticed and I don't now if anyone mentioned it to you but some of those hard to reach places, I think rivet nuts (riv-nuts) would be Ideal. Then you wouldn't have to fiddle with having enough access space in the rear of some of the areas like shown in this video with the over flow bottle/tank mounting.
You should angle the spacers on the header tanks to match the slope of the bulkhead.
I often have the tapping drill & the tap in different drills & run the tap in under power. Nice & quick. Great series BTW.
slowly comes together! nice job again! I would eliminate the rubber hose and purge hose with a nice SS or cooper line and route it on both sides as you did on the overflow tank. How will you access that isolation valve and the fuel filters, once the motor is in again? Another thought I had, was the following. If you would relocate the expansion tank to the front compartment, it would do the purpose as well, but you could eliminate that awkward hose from the motor to the tank where you do have not much room already, and that way you would not have to modify your engine access plate as well.
Dan, quick notes here. Push the cross over hose inside an aluminum tube to support it with fewer clamps. On the brake switch, put a 90 degree fitting where the switch is and then put the bottom line into it, then you can put the brake switch in the bottom facing port and clean up the install a bit. Love the build keepup the solid work.
Thanks for that suggestion Glenn!
super clean work
dan i think you are going to get air lock between the 2 tanks as the left tank exits below and then has to travel up and then go down into yhe topside of the right tank before finally screwing down the hose you might want to put some water from tank to tank with the large outlet blocked off on the right hand tank to simulate it being hooked up to your expensive engine and see if it air locks better safe than sorry but the build is coming on well cheers glenn
Saw one of these yesterday! My ears still hurt (was at a race)
Great work Dan , very clean workshop. Simply beautiful.👍👍👍👍👌👌👌👌😎😎
A suggestion for you would be to pick up a bicycle inner tube and cut it into strips that are just smaller than those bands for the 2 tanks and use super glue to hold the rubber on the inside of the bands so they aren’t visible. The rubber will hold the tanks more solid and not allow them to move due to vibrations from running and driving not only that they won’t get scratched up from the metal on metal contact. On motorcycle exhaust I’ve had to do this trick. The Toyan is a great motor but it’s not 1/10th scale. It’s 1/5th scale. I know of a few people that have put them in 1/5th scale RC cars. They’re pretty cool.
Thanks for the suggestions, I like that idea of using the bicycle tube! Wish I had have seen this earlier today when I was working on the fuel system install, ended up cutting strips out of 1mm compressed rubber to mount the fuel pump and filters, was a bit fiddly to hold it all together as I tightened the hose clamp. Supergluing the bicycle tube would have made it much easier! I might still do that for the tanks. Cheers.
@@BuiltbyDan anytime. I’m always happy to help out where I can. Keep up the good work. Can’t wait to see it done.
Dan, can you use the manifold the manufacturer shows in the pictures?
Love following this build. The Coyote is a great choice. Will sound wicked with 180 exhaust. I was thinking, just know where the high point is of the coolant so it can burp out.
Tricky to implement a 180° exhaust with the Coyote lambda sensor requirement unless you use the sub-optimal 'single cylinder' sensing.
Awesome, Dan! Great attention to detail. Keep it up!
Great work Dan!
Dan, why not install a nutsert to attach that bracket? Once the engine is installed you'll probably never be able to reach behind that bulkhead !
G'day Ted, Looking at using nutserts in final assembly. I started out this build not really knowing what I was doing or how it would all come together, so I set out to use the fasteners supplied with the kit and then disassemble once I know everything has a home and do a final assembly. Have purchased some nutserts and install tool. There are some situations where they would work well, but in other scenarios where the back of the nutsert will be exposed on the opposite face of the panel I think a nyloc nut would look better... still got some time to decide...
Hi Dan. Nice work so far! Did you consider bending up a nice hard stainless steel or aluminum tube to replace the rubber overflow cross tube? then just using a short section of rubber each end to join. Great project mate. I scratch built a Cobra a few years ago and still enjoy the driving car today. For me the build is the best part. keep up the great work!
Similarly some simple SS brackets to replace those nasty standard clamps.
Thanks Nigel, I didn't think of using a stainless hard line actually, but I like that idea! I'll look into what size I will need as I have some stainless hard tube laying around. Great to hear you are enjoying your Cobra build years down the track!
@@BuiltbyDan Just a caution against the use of dissimilar metals in the cooling system. SS and aluminium have differing galvanic properties and this accelerates corrosion. Given your engine is all aluminium, as are your radiator and tanks, I'd recommend non-metalics or stick with all aluminium.
Might I suggest applying anti-chafe tape, behind band clamps, bracket contact points, etc.., to prevent fretting from vibration, and the resulting eventual corrosion.
Thanks for the suggestion George, I'll look at option to install a rubber strip in final assembly.
I would suggest that you gain familiarity with standard general aviation practices, regarding this subject.
Better solutions then rubber strips are typically films and tapes, as rubber tends to aggravate flexing and movement, and tends to extrude as it deteriorates.
Tapes provide a layer of isolation while still allowing secure attachment.
Something like electrical tape and ptfe tape used in powder coating work well.
Also might try home built aviation material / part sources.
Most any aviation tech or aircraft home builders should be good sources of general practices on this subject, for the parallels in construction of your GT40 with metallic aircraft structures.
you're doing an awesome job bro, keep it up all the luck?
That Toyan engine looks cool, excited to see the videos on it! Curious, Is it possible to use some kind of Y-splitter on the tubing runs to incorporate the tubing run from the thermostat? Bottle mounts and tubing runs look great! Appreciate the attention to detail 👍
G'day Jon, the Toyan project has been a fun distraction from some of the challenges on the GT40 build!
I considered joining the two lines as you suggested, but based on the manufacturers schematic, it seems the relief line needs to be on the pressurised side, which the overflow is not. I don't know if that's just how they propose to do it, or if it needs to be like that... Will need to seek some mechanical advice on that aspect when I get closer to starting the engine.
Hey Dan great progress. I can’t see why those tanks aren’t mounted together as in the Cobra it seems another point of failure to have such a long hose between them. Have you considered a hard line as if the hose fails it will be a big pain in the butt to replace once the Coyote is installed. Also noticed you reverted to the manual style tap, why not use your fancy new tool?
G'day Peter, not a lot of room to mount both tanks together, at least not with the individual mounts. Have received a few comments about using a hard line, something I will look into. I used the ratcheting tap wrench for all taps in this episode, but found it regularly clicked into locked position, so didn't really get the use of the ratcheting feature!
I think I would have gone down and across with the overflow tube 😉
Do you have a means of bleeding the air from the radiator?
🤣
Both the header tank and engine sit higher than the radiator so I'm anticipating I'll be able to bleed the system from there.
@@BuiltbyDan You have a manual bleed on the radiator?
Consider replacing it with a fitting and a pipe running back to the header tank so that it can continuously vent itself and automatically bleed on filling the system.
No bleed on the radiator - it was only supplied with inlet and outlet for the radiator hoses...
@@BuiltbyDan That does make filling the system and getting all of the air out a bit of a procedure ... 😟
You can buy a product from PPG called penatrol it's a protection coating for aluminium you would need to acid wash the aluminium frame work 1st than a light coating rubbed on the aluminium this will stop finger prints, oils etc from staining the surface
Thanks for the suggestion! Still unsure what I am going to do for a coating, but definitely want it to be a clear coating to keep the aluminium look. Will add that to my list of options.
You should put that little engine on a little dyno and see how many horse torques it can make 😂
📻
Dan, for your accelerator. th-cam.com/video/zNWrHdYw4JE/w-d-xo.html. Start at 1:40 and see what this guy did
Thanks for sharing that link, was good to visualise another approach/solution to the issue! I actually saw a similar approach using cable to actuate the pedal, but kept the electronic pedal up under the dash, rather than exposed in the engine bay like that example. Confident I'll be able to come up with an alternative solution that will work, whether it be via a fixed link or cable.
you speak too