DOOR INSTALLATION (The Quick Door Hanger) (CC)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 มี.ค. 2007
- BOB SCHMIDT SHOWS YOU HOW TO INSTALL AN INTERIOR DOOR USING A NEW PRODUCT WHICH SIMPLIFIES THE PROCESS FOR THE HOMEOWNER AND NOVICE REMODELER WITH YOUR HOME REMODEL PROJECT. The name of this product has been changed to (The Quick Door Hanger) and may be available at home depot soonI told myself when I started making these videos that I was'nt going to make a video on how to hang a door there's a lot involved in it and it takes experience to learn how to do it properly but I found a new product and I think
it'll give you a fighting chance The product that we are going to use to hang this door today is a relatively new product it's called Quick Plumb for Door
Hanger it's made by Express Products I'm not sure where they're from but apparently they have a website and I
believe they did have a video there and I have actually already watched it this is what they provide you in their package supposedly this is enough for doing two doors although I recommend you go to
their site and take a look at the way they recommend doing it first uh... I want to do it a little bit
different than their directions to try to help simplify the process for the
homeowners and do-it-yourselfers I ran across this product at my wholesaler they were giving them away for free they want
carpenters to start trying to use them and see what they think of them I did hang a couple of doors with them and I
did like the results but there was still some tweaking and
judgment calls that had to be made uh... I kind of went off of what they said and I added to
it and changed the way you use them a little bit where I think it'll give you more of a
fighting chance as a novice or a home remodeler to be able to to do this. As per
their instructions they recommend that you come to about the center of the
hinge you line this little clip up with the
front edge the lead edge of the door and then with the screws provided put the three screws in making sure that
this is kept tightly against the front of the
door as you're doing it. Repeat the process with the middle and the bottom
hinge As per their instructions repeat the
process approximately opposite the hinge side that you've already put on according to their recommendations it's
time to hang the door but I've got a little bit of a different
way I'd like to see you try it directly opposite the clips you just installed on
the hinge side of the door go ahead and install the remaining six clips on the opposite side of the door after you've installed it opposite the
one on the hinge side go ahead and take a pair pliers and bend this flange out straight like
this repeat with the other five on this side
of the door on the hinge side of your door this tab is still going to be bent just the way it was sent at the factory directly opposite enough in all six
locations you're going to have a another one where
you had bent this flange straight-out according to their instructions measure approximately one-half inch in
from your rough opening and put a mark do the same thing on the other three sides coming off of your mark making sure that this
is dead level very important go a head and start making a line and make your line go all the way up and
down the side of the door now that you have the plumb lines on all four sides of the
door both sides it's time to take the door
and put it in place take a level and put it on the top of your door as you see this isn't level what we're going to have to do is we're going to
have to stick a shim underneath the bottom side of that door to make up for this difference here
where it's too low on the hinge side tap the shim underneath the door until the
header says level if this gets carpet you could probably
just cut this shim off and leave it out underneath here and the carpet will fill
the void if this is tile or hardwood what you'll
have to do is cut the bottom of the jam off on the opposite side remove this
shim and let it come down tight to the floor now that you're headers level it's time
to start anchoring the door starting at the top hinge with about the same space on this side
as the other side go ahead and run in your first screw with the top hinge screwed see these three little notches here find the little notch and the spot corresponding to
it that is closest to it and put a mark now coming down to the one below it making sure that your marking in the
same place on the little mark mark it here coming down below it again making sure you mark the same spot
as it was up above which is here then what you need to do is line these
marks up with that plumb line and put screws in these two holes Now starting on the opposite side of the
door same side as the hinge - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Called today to ask a few questions and staff was more than willing to help and went above and beyond to be sure i understood. Great
I agree, I've hung about 10,000 doors and this is a great video for people with limited experience and tools, good job.
ok, we are new at hanging doors. we tried to hang a door with shims and nails. That was a problem. We then were told to try with shims and screws. But before we could try that we found out about this little gadget. We tried this method and it worked like a charm! We have frames that are very crooked in this old house. We were able to adjust using just the screws on this little bracket. There are extra steps in this video I see, but we did not use the extra steps. ( attaching extra brackets and bending them ). I can see the use for them but at $7.50 a pop, we were not going to use the extra. For us amateurs this was a great video and a terrific gadget. Thanks.
I LOVE THESE THINGS! CUT MY TIME FROM 3 HOURS TO 1 HOUR! i USED THE DOUBLE METHOD. GREAT RESULTS!
Great Video, Thanks for the extra suggestion to make it more secure. For an additional $5 a door. I like the security.
Most exterior doors come with molding on outside of doors but if you install door from outside and put the brackets on inside of door only and bend the flange prior to installation this would work just fine.Some exterior doors are very heavy and you may want to replace one of the top hinge screws with a matching longer screw so as to reach framing for extra reinforcement I believe that would be good===Bob
Hi Bob,
Absolutely couldn't live without your help now. Thx. I'm doing a wall in my garage using steel studs (they were free). Bought the Quick Plumb on your recommendation. Well, just about to put drywall up and being an absolute novice, not sure if I am supposed to drywall the jamb of the doorway or not. I'm waiting to see you on the Home channel. Keep it up.
Rob.
I know its probably not what your used to but having hung a few of them in the real world its really easy to adjust to,thanks for post---Bob
Thank you very much for your informative video. I found this very helpful.
Hey Bob,
I've hung countless doors over the years, I think that this is an excellent product for the DIY and you have obviously made a more improved way to use it. Great video as usual!
Paul
Hey Bob, Thanks for the Great Video. Just wanted to say that these brackets are now called "The Quick Door Hanger" instead of "quick plumb" and they are available online at the Home Depot. Great instructional video, this should really help DIYs out.
There are some door manufacturers that produce a door with what is called a "SLIP JOINT JAMB" where the door comes with trim already installed on both sides.You simply anchor 1/2 jamb first nail trim and jamb then slide 2'nd half jamb into it and nail trim on.That was the easiest to install door I ever saw.+++Bob
Great job. Again, nice and clear, complete. Like the product. I'll look for it. Haven't seen it at Lowe's or Home Depot yet but they may have it.
Glad to hear it worked out well for you,the packet I received had enough for two doors{12 pieces}That I used on one.Thanks for watching===Bob
Thank you. This is very useful video whether or not one uses this product.
This "new" product is a copy of a very old one. Doing one re-model on a house built after WW2 I found something very similar on the interior doors, a piece of sheet metal that came from the pre-hung door jam for nailing into the headers/rough openings. There were no nails, shims or screws used in the door. The underside of the door jams were marked "Globe Mill Works" I guess the post war housing boom and lack of skilled finish men necessitated a sheet metal quick fix. I bought this: GREAT
I hung 3 doors faster than ever tonight using this product, however, like you I was not completely convinced that 6 brackets on one side would be enough. I was thinking that I was going to need to go and get some shims and finishing nails and make it more solid, but after watching this simple (yet genius) idea, I think that I will take those 3 doors down and put brackets on the other side. I have 2 more doors to do (5 total) and I bought a "10 door pack" so it was 'meant to be' I guess.
Not only are they screwed to the studs then you add trim (casing) over them and nail to both door and wall that also adds stability. +++Bob
I love your vids!
And I am sure that took a little while to learn those skills also! +++Bob
Hi Bob, I tried this product after seeing your vidio. Express shipped the hangers very fast, no problems there. I put up three doors and had problems with the last one; and it would have been a real bitch for me withour these hangers, I had a 37" opening for a 36" door. Thanks for a great vidio and info on a really helpful product.
Paul G.
I just bought a set of those tonight. I'm hanging 5 doors tomorrow, so I'll try it with one door & see how it goes. I'll admit I'm a bit skeptical though.
You rock Bob - Thanks for showing this - I may now keep all my hair as I can stop pulling it out due to door-hanging-frustration :-D
Apparently you didn't watch the part where he said that he is showing how to use this new product... in other words, it's almost like a product review. Not a video to compare which system is better or worst. This helps many people to know what new products are out there and help them decide whether or not it's worth trying those products.
I dont delete comments unless they have profanities in them. Everyone is entitled to their opinion it just so happens that I believe it is useful for people with limited experience. Not a salesman or affiliated with the maker of this product in any way nor have they contacted me to as much as buy me a coffee. Sorry you did not find this useful but different strokes for different folks.+++Bob
You're videos are all over their (Express Products) website. I'm not sure what exactly that implies, but it brings to question you're motivation for pitching the product. I'll be giving it a try anyway, I've got 5 doors to install (first time) thanks for the tips.
I think the opposite clips could be ditched if the trim is done right. This is a great video, and very helpful for people. Thanks.
You are correct,"YEARS" was a bit overdone,however I am sure with you as with me some doors seem to fall into opening and almost hang themselves and others,although same situation, can put up a fight and nothing seems to go well ! This could just be me as a re modeler my job duties range from ditch digger to cabinet installer and I rarely do the same type work for month after month as I am sure most DIY'rs are in the same position+++Thanks for the post Bob
Yes, in new applications they generally come pre-hung in jamb.+++Bob
As has been stated by a few others, if your wall is out of plumb (in 15 years I have rarely seen a perfectly plumb wall) this method allows for no adjustment to accommodate for that. A well hung door should remain stationary when you open the door and leave it opened at any position. If your door creeps shut or swings open on it's own, the door is not set correctly. My way also allows me to install in approximately 5 to 10 minutes, depending on how stoned the framer was that stood the wall. Here in WA state that is a frequent problem. Believe me.
You are correct there are alot of things that effect a door hanging project, proper framing.quality of manufacturing of jamb and hinges, any warping or twisting of the door itself, and the allowable tolerances by the installer. sometimes you have to make allowances that you are not going to have perfect conditions and just do the best with what you have to work with. +++Bob
I use this product all the time with "out of plane walls". Works great. If you read the instructions on the box the manufacture tells you exactly what to do. Basically before installing the casing/trim, you just push on the door jamb/frame and the brackets will bend. You can average your corners in and out as needed. You get basically the same amount of play that you would need if shimming. My team averages roughly 5 minute installs and it doesnt matter if the wall is out of plane (twisted or out of plumb). They work great. Use them for every install.
FYI - i do only install 6 brackets on the "hinge pin face" of the door. They other side you can always push or pull the jamb to the proper position when nailing on casing/trim.
It seems like a nifty little gadget for DIY enthusiasts, however it maybe a little time consuming for a chippie working onsite - more so in the UK. I still think I would much rather use timber wedges between the door lining and the wall, but everyone has their own system to which they become accustom. Complements on the video though, I like how you clearly explain everything - you would make an excellent teacher to future apprentices looking to enter the trade if you’re not so already.
Great video and tips. I almost think I'm ready to do one in my basement. Do you have any videos on installing a door in a basement where you'd use steel framing?
@quickdoorhanger Really already? Moving alot faster than I thought it would Congrats! +++Bob
Split-Style Jamb
Step1
Install the jamb half that has the door attached just as you would a standard prehung door. (See above.)
Step2
Slip in the second half of the jamb from the opposite side of the door and cover the joint between the two with the stop molding provided.
Step3
Countersink all nail heads with a nail set and fill holes with wood putty.
Step4
Stain or paint to suit your taste.
Interesting concept. Too much marking and reliance on dissimilar materials. I find more versatility in the traditional method of shim and screws. Remove one screw from each of the hinge leaves on the jamb component and replace this screw with a 2 1/2 " or 3" screw. Keep the door in the jamb when installing the jamb. Also, if you're using cedar shims run a saw blade part way down the center to prevent splitting. This said, though, I am going to try this out. Always best to step out and try new methods. Thanks for a well composed video. Keep 'em coming :)
Well said! +++Bob
These things are worth every penny. Home Depot door aisle, orange bag. Same price as shims with no headache. I only put them on 1 side of the door, not both, but i added long screws through each of the hinges for strength (company recommendation). Great video though, it led me to this awesome product. There is literally 100s of 5 star reviews at home depot..com. Awesome, just my opinion though :)
I've watched so many videos on how to install a prehung door on a normal 4 1/2" thick wall, now, thats easy no matter if you use this method or use shims, but I've never seen any video that shows you how to install a prehung door on a wall that has lath and plaster
What may seem simple to the seasoned pro such as yourself may be a little more complicated to the rest of us +++Bob
@rickconstruction1 I only suggested using more than 6 for the novice and do-it-yourselfer to help eliminate possible problems+++Bob Also I agree you can make some speed with these.
I've used metal brackets of this type for years for real difficult doors, a real easy way to profile your doors if time is not money, for someone to patent this approach is hard to swallow but hey if you can't do, sell, right.
Actually, not being a greenhorn myself,if we set two doors up side by side I am willing to bet I would be done first. I may add a long screw in hinge side top just to make me feel a little better to boot +++Bob
First let me say I do recommend using this product. The bigggest advantage it gives you is keeping the frame in place while making all your adjustments. Adjustments are easily made by loosening the screws. Each package contains 6 brackets so you will have to order 2 sets of brackets per door to install as in this video. I did one door using brackets on just the front and it was a bit too flimsy. I shimmed behind the top door hinge just for my own peace of mind.
You made what was an easy installation even more complicated. And after you got the door plumbed and installed you loosened the screw on the hinge side and adjusted it making the door not plumb again. Then bending over the brackets for who knows what reason would probably not allow the trim to lay flat on the door after installation.
Do you always plumb the jamb by the door or by the margins? If I did not bend the brackets straight the door and jamb would not go into framed opening. Sorry you did not see any value in this video but for a beginner who has not been trained how to hang a door I believe it gives some assistance.+++Bob
HomeRemodelWorkshop Plumbing the door is plumbing the door - not by margins. After you got the door level (plumb) on the hinge side, THEN, you adjusted your margins all around. You did that, but you also kicked out the bottom hinge side to adjust the margin, after you plumbed the door - resulting in the bottom hinge being out of plumb (or twisted) from the top 2 hinges. Its not only not informative, its longer/more complicated then what the original design was meant and I don't know why you thought you needed to "improve" on it by making a video and adding steps too it.
Brian Wohn
Well Brian I cannot be sure about your experience with purchasing prehung doors or re-using existing doors that have hung for a few years but it has been mine that no manufactured door is perfect in the routing,twisting of the wood jamb.or in the effect of weight hanging on hinges and operating over time. I dont care if you are hanging cabinets, building walls with wood members, or hanging a door, if you dont make adjustments for not perfect conditions your final results will not be favorable. +++Bob
Brian Wohn I am anxious to see your expert video Brian.
@1INACTION Yes, you only need to cut off the door jamb on the high side of the floor. This will allow the side of the door that is off the floor to touch the floor also. IMPORTANT! place door in opening first- shim up low side only untill top of frame is level,measure distance you shimmed up and cut that amount off opposite side of jamb(ie side of jamb still touching floor) Let me know if this is understood before you cut+++Bob
THIS IS ONLY FOR INTERIOR DOORS.
I can see it being used for exterior doors as a primary adjustment, but then followed up with wood shims for a more precise and stronger construction.
My concern, do the small tabs that help position the clip force the moulding to slightly stand out from the door frame. I suppose the tab would lay under the indent on the rough side of the moulding & the same with the tongue which attached to the 2x4. I'd hate to order these things & then find that my mouldings wudn't sit flush
Rob I suggest you check out my accurate door framing video, no Rob you do not hang drywall on the inside of framing when you are installing a door. Good luck on your project!
Bob
you can contact express products with any questions. In response, no I belive there is "no bashing" required. You just need to screww it in. Also yes, the black screws are drywall screws. Also the end of the video from the manufactuer shows a 220lb man hanging from the door.
You want more strength, just use some more brackets or attach some strips of heavy gauge sheet metal. Besides, what usually breaks when a door gets kicked in. The latch side of the door frame splits all to hell. I've had to fix many an entry door after someone kicked it in on my job. Even one that was kicked so hard, it broke the deadbolt in two. But the door jamb never moved out of plumb. I just replaced the inside casing trim, glued the door jamb, finish nailed, replace hardware, done :)
I wasn't sure why you put the clips on the other side of the door. I guess without the shims it was flopping around a bit but after the trim was installed it should have been rock solid.
I had no problem keeping the casing tight you just need to set the drywall screws in the brackets slightly below surface. +++Bob
I'd seen this product directly from the manufacturer before watching this video, and I can tell you that the way the manufacturer recommends the installation is exactly how Bob said. If you watch the video from the manufacturer you will see how wobbly the door looks. Even before I watched this video I had notice that you needed more of those clips to make the door feel solid. If you had watch that video you would realize Bob doesn't work for them at all, since he isn't doing it their way.
I think you are forgetting the main point point here. This video is not intended for people who already know how to hang a door, its for first time do it 'yourselfers'. In fact he has even improved the use and instructions upon what the manufacturers recommend. I don't even know what you mean by trim legs, so your instructions are wasted on the first timer.
Great vid.
At this point this is a relatively new product that may change soon.===Bob
As long as the screws are set deep enough trimming is not an issue+++Bob@CJBMason
Being a professional I believe the old fashioned way is faster.
However the odd time I have stain grade door jambs this would be a good alternative to toe nailing or blind nailing to conceal fasteners.
Neat product, Bob. I'm very interested in using these to do a couple of interior doors as I finish my basement. I'm curious as to how the casing fits over the brackets. Is there a gap between the casing and the drywall where the brackets are?
Thanks
@dagooooooo Is not that what this is? LOL Thanks for watching+++Bob
@gcat4u It is very thin and when screwed pulls back harmlessly into drywall+++Bob
@thebestmason1 I know no-one that does it that way. Many ways for that simple system to not work well but "different strokes for different folks" +++Bob
Hey, Bob... I'm from Brazil and here we got diferent ways to isntal a door. But this one is very easy and fast, even to amatour carpentiers like me. My hobby is to work woods like this almost every weekend. Great job, buddy!!!
By the way... as a country music fan, I liked so much the video intro, with a solo guitar song. Could you tell me the artist and song's name? I'll be much glad! See ya!
I wish there was a good system to allow for out of plumb walls. If there is one please let me know what it is+++Bob
Bob, How easy is it to trim out the door after using this system? Looks like it might hold the trim out a bit with that flange sticking out over the door jam. Thanks for the great videos, keep up the great work!
@Clichyabarbes22 Had no problem putting trim over mine, just make sure you set screws deeply enough
+++Bob
Seemed more to do with door lining than actually shooting a door. Say like shooting in a door existing door lining.
I'm from UK so we normally have to shoot and chop recess for hinges in door and lining and chop mortice for latch and striking plate.
Do your doors come pre hung in door lining?
@vxAREKxv I have hung commercial doors with the metal connectors and drywall slots. My only advice is to use a spreader on bottom untill after drywall is hung especially with metal studs.+++Bob
@Nite20fly Your welcome+++Bob
also with this system you dont have to fill the nail holes later
Lol? My Dad made a similar system using strips of heavy galvanized sheet metal to connect the door frame to the building framing. He swore it was a lot stronger than finish nails thru shims. Remember, shims are low grade timber, and also, the forces of the door are acting at right angles to the finish nails. So this system is actually a lot stronger, you don't need shims. Plus, you won't mar the finish of inside the door (no setting nails and wood filler required here).
What about a pre-hung door? Like the ReliaBilt pre-hung door
@goldencoin100 Because adjustments to door are usually slight and cannot be done properly until door is hung. +++Bob
There may come a day when you can purchase doors with them factory installed. If I sold doors I would consider it!+++BOB
Hey Bob I saw this Bob vVilla youtube vid named "Installing pre-hung doors". They install the trim first on one side then set the door in place. Is that way easier? Thx for all you do.
Sorry mate but what if you wall is out of plumb?
How do you keep the door in whine (however you spell that)?
I can hang a door in about 5 mins my way.
like the series of videos, but i'll stick with my own method on this one.
I was hoping they would help.Always a little nerveracking recommending a new product.GLAD TO GET SOME GOOD FEEDBACK! BOB
@who8allthepies "if you cant hang a door dont try.get a chippy to do it" That is not the attitude most people who watch my videos have, they take pride in expanding their abilities. +++Bob p.s am I a "Chippy"?
You should follow up by showing trim installation may be an issue with the metal projection interfering .
@rhblakeman "The Quick Door Hanger" is made ALL in the USA!
Always hard to say bad things against the tryed and trusted but with-out having an experienced person with you to walk you through your first door there are many mistakes that can be made.This product seems to keep that to a minimum for the first timer/Diy'er+++Bob
@specialks1953 It's been my experience that too many beers don't help with door installations, just an observation+++Bob
Hello---Bob
I think this is a good question for the manufacturers... but if your wall frame is made out of metal studs, basically you have the same issue. Thus, those frames almost never get loose, so I would imagine this system should work the same way. Although, that was one of the first questions I had when I first saw this product a while ago. Also questioned the fact that with the installation made as per the manufacturer's recommendations the door looked a bit flimsy to me.
And so we see what happens when an accountant invents a system to hang a door.
It's all SO simple! One rectangle 3/16" less in width than the width of the jamb AT THE HEAD. Process everything on your door bench; jamb lengths, head length, finished door cut, beveling the stile edges at 3 degrees. Use power tools and hinge templates to mortise the hinges, both on the jamb and the door. Set the jamb, putting three nails near the mortises on the hinge side, with shims behind the mortises. Don't worry about the strike side yet. Plumb it in both directions. Set the top hinge leaf. Go get the door. Lift the hinge leaf onto the top jamb leaf and drop the pin in. Push the door open, using your foot to hold it reasonably plumb. Screw the bottom hinge leaf into the jamb mortise, then get the center one. If it's an 8' door, you'll have four hinges. Check the strike side head margin. Is it 1/16" as at the hinge side? Good. The door is level. Adjust for cross alignment. Framers and drywallers never seem to get both sides dead plumb and tight. Now, shim top and bottom of the strike side jamb. Nail them. work your way down with shims, evening out the margin reveals. Do yourself a favor and put shims in behind the strike mortise on the jamb.
Do EVERYTHING possible on your bench. That includes boring for the handleset and "knocking" it out. I've hung maybe 10,000 doors over the years, all the way from prefits, pre-hungs, book, to Architectural. This video is whacked. Sorry Bob.
If you would like to jot down a quick description of how to do it the conventional way I would love to read it Thanks ===Bob
Sorry to hear you say that looking at the rest of the comments it does seem to help some people out+++Bob
Seems easier and faster to just tack on all your trim to the door casing on one side of the door then level and plumb that. Shoot trim to the wall while plumbing and leveling. Shim behind hinges, above and below striker and top and bottow of striker side. Shoot nails through casing into shims. Trim backside of door and call it good. Seems like this system adds work and time. =/ Neat idea I guess.
how mach cost us dollars have a Master for install 1 door?sorry my inglish i am from russia
Justin, Do you mean a steel framed door or a prehung door in a metal framed wall?+++Bob
I had no problem with thin straps-----Bob
Hey Bob, Just Wondering, Why do you use an Electrical Drill as opposed to a Cordless ?
Just something I noticed about you and wondering if there is a reason for it?
Great Video By the Way !
lot of work for a simple interior door!!!!!!!!!!!!
I'd never buy that product as it makes something fairly easy very complicated.
there is a video of a 220lbs man hanging from a door installed with the brackets on the manufactuers at the end of the instalation.
Without seeing the project its hard to say what the timeline should be. I can say if your lead carpenter is doing a quality job those doors should hang for many years into the future. Sometime pressures to get the job done quickly can lead to poor quality that should never be acceptable==Bob
Call your local Home Depot store for availability!
@TomSawyerPainting Owned several of them over the years , seriously tired of batteries failing ,chargers shorting, usually at the worst moment! I have nothing against the use of them or the people that use them just old school I guess+++Bob
how tall are you?
door shims