Euclid Probe Install
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 เม.ย. 2022
- Install a Euclid probe on your 3d printer. I decided to replace my induction probe with this mechanical probe. Many are building the Clicky probe which works really well, but the idea of a circuit board was appealing. I installed this into my Voron that is running Klipper, but this should mostly apply to your Creality, Ender or Prussa 3d printer as well with the right mounts. At the end, there is a clip that shows how the bed mesh changed due to the better readings through this probe.
Important Note: Turn off power before installing to avoid the chance of burning out the probe leds!
Links:
Euclid Probe:
euclidprobe.github.io/index.html
Instructions: euclidprobe.github.io/
Luke's Lab (where I purchased the kit)
lukeslabonline.com/products/e...
Firmware samples:
github.com/nionio6915/Euclid_...
STL for mounts:
github.com/nionio6915/Euclid_...
The military green, white ABS and black ASA filament: www.paramount-3d.com/?ref=o45... - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Wow- GREAT job on the video, Thank You!
My only comment is my preference to swipe the probe halves apart instead of plucking them apart. It seems to put less stress on the dock- the magnets are strong.
Thank you very much! I'll go ahead and change the motion and try it out. Thank you for the tip!
Thank you. I figured it out and got mine working now. Thank you for the help and great video. Your awesome
I'm glad you got it working! One tip. I've heard reports that the gantry mount is actually more reliable than the bed frame mount I used. When you get some time, you may want to print that out just in case you decide you need to change the mount. Thanks for watching!
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop i have the gantry mount coz im using ender 5 plus. Thank you
@@rjs3dprints That sounds great and I'm glad its working!
Thank you so much!It helped me a lot.
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
Really appreciate you making this video. Got my Euclid up and running perfectly.
Have you thought about making a Stealthburner by any chance? I want the improved cooling performance but Euclid is not supported yet until Stealthburner officially releases. I would be curious to see a video on performance differences between the stock Afterburner and ABBN if you're up for it. Going to be building a Nevermore and the nozzle brush project next using your videos!
Thank you for the kind words! I do plan on Stealthburner, but I was waiting to see the final version. A comparison between it and ABBN sounds interesting. As I understand it, the ABBN improvements were used in Stealthburner and actually improved upon as well. I believe ABBN is actually obsolete at this stage, but I might be wrong. I need to think about a comparison....I have a few more projects planned 1st, I'm waiting on parts to come in, but ready to start and post. Nevermore and the nozzle brush have been great so far. Thank you for the suggestion and thank you for watching! If you live with others and your printer, they will thank you for Nevermore.
Thanks to you I got it working!
I'm glad to hear it! Thank you!
When you're using the Euclid probe in combination with a Z-endstop for auto compensation - (another great video of yours, might I add) - is there a recommended orientation for the actuator button of the microswitch itself?
I have mine to the right. I don't think it really matters just so long as you are able to encode that in your .cfg file script. It's really what works best for you. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the clarification. I guess the only consideration is that the switch button is as close to the nozzle tip as possible - upon reviewing the auto z-offset video, that is indeed with the switch button to the right (blunt) end of the Euclid. :)
@@mysfiring You bring up a good point. The actual button on the switch should not be far from the nozzle for the best measurements. It has been working great for me in the current location. Thanks!
To make the harness that connects the probe to the toolhead PCB, what AWG wire would you recommend? 22 or 24 AWG maybe? Also, would just the individual wires be ok on their own, or would the harness need extra insulation around the wires? I see the stock Omcron probe has a rather beefy insulated cable.
It's a low amperage device, I don't think the AWG is very critical. Either should be fine. Since you mention the Omron probe cables, I actually used the excess from when I initially installed the Omron and had to trim the length of the cable. It seemed like good quality cable, so I used it for Euclid.
I just installed my euclid today, havent set it up yet. You board looks different than mine I did get the pcb from oshpark for 3$ it may have been a older one. I ended up purchasing the parts separately. The magnets are the most of the cost @ 2.25 from mcmastercar. The quality is really good, I said damnn those are shiny when i saw them at first. It definitely feels like the most robust option
I'm curious to know how well it works for you. So far, I'm happy.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop finding my one 1k ohm resistor on the floor was probably the hardest part lol I had the tiniest smd you can get
@@zviper Sounds like a lucky day to me. Imagine if you had not!
Could you order just the one board from osh park?
@@geterdnboy I don't really know. Give them a call, I'm sure they will be able to help.
Hi Kapman,
thanks for the video. With the help of it i was able to configure my euclid. Much appreciated!
I have a problem with the Euclid part which stays in the dock when not used. It is vibrating a lot and making a really bad noise. I have to remove it from the dock while printing. Do you have this problem? Is it known? Any fix for it?
Thank you very much.
Your printer is vibrating heavily? Is something loose? Since I assume you are using klipper, have you set your resonance configuration? Do the charts show something vibrating?
I don't have this problem and this is the 1st I have heard of it. You could also try to use a gantry mount for storage instead. I have been told it's actually a better option than storing at the bed.
Hi @@KapmansBasementWorkshop thanks for the feedback. It is indeed the Euclid probe which is sitting losely at the docking station. By the way, i installed this on a Voron Trident. The only solution is to remove the Euclid from the docking station after it did the job.
Hmmmm. Something is creating those vibrations on your printer. @@fatih3d626
Does the Euclid probe have to be placed on the holder at the extruder when starting the printer?
Is there a problem when changing the thickness of the bed pad (1-4mm)?
When setup properly, your printer should load the Euclid probe on it's own when it's needed and place it back in the holder when it's done. Changing the thickness of the bed pad will require you to readjust the z-offset. If you expect to do that often, you should install software to adjust your z-offset automatically. Have a look at this video: th-cam.com/video/oQYHFecsTto/w-d-xo.html
Great video and helpful to get started. Dont think I had Bed mesh leveling previously set up in my printer.cfg file and got "Existing command 'BED_MESH_CALIBRATE' not found in gcode_macro rename". Would I just copy and enter whats in the euclid.cfg under bed mesh into my printer.cfg where bed mesh calibrate is?
I would just comment out the "bed_mesh_calibrate" section in the euclid.cfg file. I think that will take care of the issue. Just remember to un-comment that section if in the future you choose to enable bed mesh leveling. Thanks for the kind words and watching!
Back to the drawing board. Got it to work once I commented out bed mesh and gantry leveling. Sadly, 1 of the magnets broke somehow. Wish they had spares on the webpage.
@@ZeonsZone Ouch! Apparently the magnets are very brittle. I'm sorry to hear it broke. I would send them an email.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop That was a good idea to contact them. Looks like they are sending a replacement.
@@ZeonsZone I'm glad to hear it. I've purchased from them multiple times now. They seem like a good company with caring people. I will certainly purchase from them in the future.
Did you leave the BAT-35 diode in the circuit that goes with the inductive probe?
I'll need to chick to be sure, but I remember leaving it off. I changed the voltage of that port to 5v instead. Thank you for watching!
i wondering how you did your z offset did you use the manual for the voron ??
Yes, I did. But later on, I added automatic z offset. So now the printer calibrates z-offset on it's own automatically prior to the start of every print. Check my following videos....Thanks for watching!
im getting an error when it stows the probe after QGL. i get probe triggered prior to movement. its connected to my sb2040 canbus as an endstop. any help would be greatly appreciated.
I don't think it has anything to do with canbus (I use canbus these days as well). But when stowing, I assume it's being placed into a slotted holder like I am using? If so, when stowing, the print head might be just slightly too low and the microswitch button on euclid might be being pushed as it enters the slot. On the return, try a value for z that is slightly higher...raise euclid just a tiny bit on M402.
How can I get the printable mount dock, same as you have?
In the link there are not the same model.
I like a lot your model .
I didn't design it. The link it it and many others is in the description. Here is the link: github.com/nionio6915/Euclid_Probe/tree/main/stls/Mount%20Adapters
The Euclid website also presents some of these options.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop , thank you very much, now I have found it, there are a lot of folders and options.
Im getting this error wheni do z tilt
!! horizontal_move_z can't be less than probe's z_offset
I'm glad you fixed it!
Mhh... I'm actually pretty satisfied with the PL-08N2 Probe Setup so for me there is no reason to deviate from the stock configuration.
What bothered me at the end of the video when you demonstrated it working is the direction the Toolhead _approaches_ the Probe from - The Z-Direction the Exit is located in - and then heads off with - With the Probe kinda dangling around until it has fully left the Garage 🤔
Wouldn't it be more sensible to come in from the Y-Direction a little higher than it making contact, lowering the Toolhead for it to make proper contact, and then leaving in the Exit Z-Direction?
Personally, I'd probably modify the "Garage" for it to support a neat continuous swiping motion ( relocating the Exit to the opposite site ) starting from where you came from ( the Z-Axis Pin ) going over the Euclid Garage picking it up as it moves along and stopping after it has cleared it for the Z-Raise - Ya kno' doing things in _*STYLE™*_😁
Ha! Actually, I will be switching the "Garage" soon. I want to mount it to the gantry or change the current position and better set it up for a nozzle brush and purge bucket. Thanks for the "stylish" comment and thank you for watching.
I feel like this is a lot of trouble when you could just...get a Bltouch or Crtouch.. but im rather partial to them. Theyve been wonderfully accurate for my printers.
There are many reports of those probes failing in the heat of an enclosed printer. I've been printing a lot of ABS that really likes the heat. Other than that, the only other advantage I can think of is price. This is pretty cheap in comparison. But the probes you are using are great. Thank you for watching!
Also the Bltouch and CRtouch are not simple to install. You have to do a lot of customizing and sanding and tearing the probe itself apart to even mount it. This and the Klicky are the simplest and proven to be the most accurate.
I would also like to point out the BLtouch's pin is a common failure point. If your print messes up it will bend that pin or snap it. If the pin gets bent it messes with your z offset. I've replaced many pins or restraighten them. I would not recommend a bltouch after my experience with them.
@@richardclinton8408 Thanks for that feedback. I had no idea.
@@KapmansBasementWorkshop No problem, of course its my opinion but so far I'm digging the klicky mod. I'm about to do the euclid mod on another printer so thats why I watched this. Thanks for the video, you did great!
👍
Thank you!
I don't like you cable color selection. Much better is black for GND, brown for VCC and Blue for Data
That's fair. You can certainly change it to whatever works best for you. Thanks for commenting!