These heater hose connector fittings are the most common coolant leak spots on these trucks. The metal heater hose fittings are supposed to be better. You can upgrade to them if you want. Passenger Left Plastic: amzn.to/3CoFN3d Driver Right Plastic (Small): amzn.to/4h8qnz7 Driver Right Plastic: amzn.to/42puJNI Passenger Left Metal: amzn.to/40VvD3H Driver Right Metal: amzn.to/42t0fdM Hoses: amzn.to/4hshEYj Pressure Test Kit: amzn.to/4a9UymX As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
If you're in a pinch just brake all the plastic fitting out of the hose, you can put the hose directly on the heater core. I use 2 clamps since there is no lip on the heater core. i did it on my Silverado it's been 3 years now. I meant to get the metal fittings but never got around to it.
these are the same on a 8.1. i suggest only buying the metal ones. also glenns performance in florida... sells a very nice kit with hoses. the lisle tool comes in handy
@@MattsShop got bout 30k miles on them. my brother in law just did his and he has a 8.1. i bought the kit with silicone hoses and metal connectors from glenns performance. glenns seems to have a bit of decent info on the gmt800
They make the heater core fittings and that Y from the tank to the pump and core out of metal, do yourself a favor and get the metal ones. Do what GM didn’t do and do it right one time. They are on Amazon for cheap
I had one of htose break on me and piss out all my coolant on the offroad trail once. To get myself home I filled it with creek water and tied the heater hoses together with a copper tube I found on the ground. I keep a spare in my center console after that. Also definitely upgrade to the metal Y pipe
Yeah I just changed them before it got this cold.196 thousand miles to never been changed. Pain to remove but had to be done.the one on the left side is the one that is a pain 😅😂
I looked at Dorman SS and replacement plastic. I got the impression the SS clips can pop off. I went with Aluminum ones off Amazon that have clips like what GM uses for tranny cooler lines
I have the same truck/engine. The head gasket has an issue where I was losing coolant out of the tailpipe at about 180,000 miles. We ran some red guard sealant through the water jacket (bypassing the radiator) and it seems to be holding a year later. Before that, the high pressure opened up the radiator seam.
I just had my intake heater core hose on my 2003 silverado start to leak. Funnily enough as soon as I touched the heater hose it cracked off spraying me with dex-cool lol.
The SUVs have some in the back too... They have a separate whole another HVAC box in the back too with a heater core AC lines running there. Maybe even a small condenser. Maybe not but it definitely has a heater core and it has a blower motor and all the other b******* too separate. So if you got the SUV if you see it dripping by the rear tire right rear tire it's the fitting
Little off topic. On my Suzuki Vinson, the output shaft is turning smooth, then gets tough and repeats. I’ve rebuilt the motor and put a new diff, the only thing is the U joints. Think it’s the U joints?
....where's the video on how to replace the ignition key cylinder? ....and is it possible to replace without a key? ....I was gifted a 00 suburban from a relative with no keys, LOL ...help & highly appreciative of your time.
Drill it out start small then keep stepping the size up and the cylinder will eventually turn and come out. I had to do this when the cylinder was so worn out even with a key it wouldn’t turn anymore. It was pretty easy
i think the difference is for the diesel as the engine is larger. would need to look up the heater core part numbers. also there is a 3rd option for tahoes/suburbans with rear heat
@@MattsShop i looked it up seems the white one with the tabs is for diesel. the other is for rear ac/heat vehicles. looking at heater cores they all have the same part number so thats kinda strange and dont make sense. i based this all on gm parts
These heater hose connector fittings are the most common coolant leak spots on these trucks.
The metal heater hose fittings are supposed to be better. You can upgrade to them if you want.
Passenger Left Plastic: amzn.to/3CoFN3d
Driver Right Plastic (Small): amzn.to/4h8qnz7
Driver Right Plastic: amzn.to/42puJNI
Passenger Left Metal: amzn.to/40VvD3H
Driver Right Metal: amzn.to/42t0fdM
Hoses: amzn.to/4hshEYj
Pressure Test Kit: amzn.to/4a9UymX
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
This is the one I've been waiting on Matt!! Thank you sir🫡🫡🫡
Glad I could help! Laterrrrr!
Thank you so much for the videos man! God bless you and keep them coming.
You're welcome! I will for sure!
If you're in a pinch just brake all the plastic fitting out of the hose, you can put the hose directly on the heater core. I use 2 clamps since there is no lip on the heater core. i did it on my Silverado it's been 3 years now. I meant to get the metal fittings but never got around to it.
Hey Matt try checking those two hoses that connect under the throttle body they are known to leak there also
Thanks Matt for your help with all you do...keep on sending the tech videos. I got me a Matt file..laterrrrrrr buddy.
these are the same on a 8.1. i suggest only buying the metal ones. also glenns performance in florida... sells a very nice kit with hoses. the lisle tool comes in handy
How are your metal heater hose fittings holding up?
@@MattsShop got bout 30k miles on them. my brother in law just did his and he has a 8.1. i bought the kit with silicone hoses and metal connectors from glenns performance. glenns seems to have a bit of decent info on the gmt800
@@MattsShophow do I make an appointment with you to do some work on my 2000 GMC sierra 2500 6.0?
They make the heater core fittings and that Y from the tank to the pump and core out of metal, do yourself a favor and get the metal ones. Do what GM didn’t do and do it right one time. They are on Amazon for cheap
I had one of htose break on me and piss out all my coolant on the offroad trail once. To get myself home I filled it with creek water and tied the heater hoses together with a copper tube I found on the ground. I keep a spare in my center console after that. Also definitely upgrade to the metal Y pipe
Do you have a video on steering components. I have a rubbery squeaking coming from up high sounds like under dash or near fire wall?
I got the dorman metal lower cross pipe
Yeah I just changed them before it got this cold.196 thousand miles to never been changed. Pain to remove but had to be done.the one on the left side is the one that is a pain 😅😂
I looked at Dorman SS and replacement plastic. I got the impression the SS clips can pop off. I went with Aluminum ones off Amazon that have clips like what GM uses for tranny cooler lines
I have the same truck/engine. The head gasket has an issue where I was losing coolant out of the tailpipe at about 180,000 miles. We ran some red guard sealant through the water jacket (bypassing the radiator) and it seems to be holding a year later. Before that, the high pressure opened up the radiator seam.
The gates 5/8" connector is # 28500 used two of these. These are black plastic
I would recommend the AC/Delco quick disconnects over the Dorman ones.
You like them better?
I replaced mine with the Dorman Aluminum ones. They look solid.
Are they leaking of fixed.
@@MattsShop They are fixed. Been doing good for 3 years. The aluminum looks quality.
I just had my intake heater core hose on my 2003 silverado start to leak. Funnily enough as soon as I touched the heater hose it cracked off spraying me with dex-cool lol.
The SUVs have some in the back too... They have a separate whole another HVAC box in the back too with a heater core AC lines running there. Maybe even a small condenser. Maybe not but it definitely has a heater core and it has a blower motor and all the other b******* too separate. So if you got the SUV if you see it dripping by the rear tire right rear tire it's the fitting
Little off topic. On my Suzuki Vinson, the output shaft is turning smooth, then gets tough and repeats. I’ve rebuilt the motor and put a new diff, the only thing is the U joints. Think it’s the U joints?
Out of the back of the motor. I know what you are talking about. Pretty sure mine did that but then I replaced the U joints.
@ man thanks a lot for the tip, and thanks!
Did it seem like it was in the diff or transmission?
....where's the video on how to replace the ignition key cylinder? ....and is it possible to replace without a key? ....I was gifted a 00 suburban from a relative with no keys, LOL ...help & highly appreciative of your time.
Drill it out start small then keep stepping the size up and the cylinder will eventually turn and come out. I had to do this when the cylinder was so worn out even with a key it wouldn’t turn anymore. It was pretty easy
Do your self is the go IF you know what you’re doing
Heater core ?
Yep I've had to replace at least one connector on the firewall on both of my cateyes. No big deal just annoying
i think the difference is for the diesel as the engine is larger. would need to look up the heater core part numbers. also there is a 3rd option for tahoes/suburbans with rear heat
I think the rear heat ones use the white plastic one with the smaller inner diameter.
@@MattsShop i looked it up seems the white one with the tabs is for diesel. the other is for rear ac/heat vehicles. looking at heater cores they all have the same part number so thats kinda strange and dont make sense. i based this all on gm parts