Thank you for all your videos! I love the fact that you keep the mistakes in. We all make them and it’s nice to learn from yours. I’ve had my ‘73 for 4 years and have yet to raise the mast and sail. Downside of buying a project boat. Cheap up front, but time consuming. Glad to see you and Suzy enjoying the sailing! Have fun!
The clip things are called shackles. The cool little ends are called acorn nuts. Sailboat pulleys are called blocks. I like using butyl tape to bed the hardware. You can use it in bad weather and it’s better than silicone sealant. When using silicone type sealant, you want to let it set up before you tighten down the hardware all the way, so all of it doesn’t squeeze out.
Picking up a c22 project next Saturday. Love the mods. Gives me things to think about doing during the restoration, instead of after everything is complete.
Keep up the good work! Appreciate you taking the time to document. I ground out all the gel coat spiderwebs on my deck, and will be fairing and painting this weekend. Can’t wait to get to rigging my Catalina 22! Dunedin is my old stomping grounds and one of the first places we will trailer Savannah to for a weekend trip, hope to see y’all out there!
That's great! I'm also looking forward to replacing all the standing rigging after I borrow aa friends trailer. If you use the Dunedin ramp, say hi to Knot Enough floating out there! Or comment again prior to your trip and we'll look for you. Thanks for watching!
Great video! I've been doing some extensive work on my C22 as well. A trick to avoid the sealant blowing out is to tighten the deck fitting down so it's snug, but giving it a little time to cure before torquing it all the way down. That way, it won't all spill out and it'll compress to fill in your countersunk holes and any irregularities in the deck. Keep the videos coming!
@@AdventuresInParadise If you want some advice (always worth what it costs :) I'd at least get rid of the screws and through-bolt it to the hull with nice big washers on the inside. Cheap insurance.
loving the videos. I just bought a 1986 Cal 22 and even though they are different builds they are very similar. thanks. and I plan on doing just as you, learning and making this one perfect and then moving up in size. keep it up please!
Catolina 22’s are a nice handling boat, the Sailing School here in Southern Maryland where my wife and I went to to get our ASA 101 Certifications used those boats and they can handle a fairly good bit of wind!! Good video, just subscribed to your channel!!
The acorn cap nuts are pretty but still stick out enough to put a dent in one's scalp. I carefully measured the bolts to protrude only enough for a lock washer and flat nut (on for three turns). This keeps the protrusion to about half of the cap nut.
You really should have a hacksaw and some electrical tape on board and you would be able to customise bolt and cable lengths. A rechargable angle grinder would be pretty handy too!😃
Best practice when drilling through bolts into deck is to over drill the hole by twice the diameter. tape off the hole inside and back fill with thickened epoxy, let cure and drill out the correct size hole in the epoxy. This seals the plywood or balsa core from any water ingress under your hardware past whatever sealant you use. You know it will leak, you had to reseal your port lites.
WOW! I can't begin to tell you how much I've learned and how TRULY INSPIRED I am by watching your videos. Y'all have a geat thing going here... I came back to the Knot Enough vids to ask a question and get your guidance here. Any chance I can email you my question? Thanks! :)
Just watching this in early September. A trick for your long screws is to tighten them down with regular nuts, cut the excess off with a Dremel, remove the nut and replace with the acorn nut, which will always have enough space inside. I noted the other comments about backing plates on the inside, you really need those. Fender washers would be a good choice.
I was at the boat today because I'm now rebedding all the deck hardware and saw those long screws again. Now that I'm in a slip I can take care of them. i think I will add larger washers when I cut them.
@@AdventuresInParadise You might even want to use a block of wood on the side to back long bolts. That gives you a mounting point for other accessories.
Long bolts can still be cut while installed. Run the washers and nuts on, Mark where they need cut, remove any washers, and backing plates, and only reinstall the nut. Cut the bolt, then bevel the straight edges from the cut with a file, no power tools here, then removing the nut will clean the threads. On a small boat like your, acorn nuts can be used to make it even better and less painful on human heads. As for the sealant, no need to cut. Place painters blue tape around the hardware perimeter prior to squeezing out the sealnt, and before the sealant gets tacky, with soappy water, use your finger to fair the sealant against the hardwars, then remove the tape. Makes for a cleaner installation. A jib downhaul is a great and safe idea on a hanked-on jib. I use the third reef (led aft) on my mainsail as a downhaul if I need to douse quickly. Very nice little boat.
Thanks! Knot Enough is now sold and you can check our our new boat in the latest tour video. I learned that tape trick when I did the windows later.. oh well! Thanks for taking the time to help! -Jason
Consider connecting your jib downhaul to the halyard in such a way that if the shackle comes open the downhaul remains connected to the halyard. That way you won't ever 'lose' your halyard at the top of the mast. Good job!
That's an interesting idea. I believe the instructions said to connect it a few hanks down so it piles in on the deck and won't blow off, which works. After using it for a while, I think it's main benefit is being able to douse the jib and, using the sheets, keep it on deck without going forward. I still like to get up there and secure it, but at least I can move on to the main sail and wait until under motor to go fix things up.
@@AdventuresInParadise Well, now I will have to try the way you suggest. The issue of 'collecting' the jib, even with the downhaul, is challenging for me.
Always drill oversized holes. Fill completely with epoxy. Then drill the smaller actual bolt holes. Use backing plates! Seal with butyl tape. Skipping these steps leads to water intrusion and rotted cores, spongy decks.
Im just here to find out how to to rig my boat. I put the mast up 2 days ago after 7 months of preparing my first boat (project boat). All nice and well until I realised that the rigging is incomplete. I dont have a boom vang, there seems to be a system with some sort of key but its not with the parts I got, and I understand that there needs to be more support for the main sail. So far I just have the halyard but no clip or anything to keep the tack down or operate the clew.
So watching a other popular TH-cam sailboat refit chanel I learned about the drill fill drill method when installing deck hardware. 5200 works great but it doesn't seal the wood core like a hole filled with thickened epoxy. Just something to think about.
Great video! I've been doing some extensive work on my C22 as well. A trick to avoid the sealant blowing out is to tighten the deck fitting down so it's snug, but giving it a little time to cure before torquing it all the way down. That way, it won't all spill out and it'll compress to fill in your countersunk holes and any irregularities in the deck. Keep the videos coming! www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/bedding-deck-hardware.asp
You need to spread the tension out over a larger area. You also need to have different sizes on each side so that you don’t create a shear point. Probably worth a backer board purchase. 3/8” plywood?! A Dremel tool with a small cutoff disc to trim the bolts. Cap nuts are okay, but still hurt.
Hi! Great channel 👍 do you remember how long screws did you have to use to install spilock (deck organiser) for the lines led aft? I am getting all the fittings ready to reorganise my running rigging but my boat is 120 miles away from where o live so cant jut go over there to measure how thick the deck is? 🙏 thanks
If any one doing this put a wooden pad on the inside of the fiber glass to spread the load. if something snags it's just gonna rip the fitting out of the boat.
Hey was just in clearwater today looking at a Cat 22 looking to buy it. Anyway me and my gf get with you guys next time we are down to get some insight and ask some questions about your boat?
I have a 1982 Macgregor 22 which is very similar to the Catalina 22 (shut up Macgregor detractors!). I’ve accumulated most of the hardware for project but I’m curious about the length of the halyards and downhauls. We’re you able to use the same halyards or did you need additional length?
Do the Halyards come with the kit to put them back to the cockpit or did you purchase everything separately? I know Catalina Direct makes a kit (hardware) , I just don't know if it comes with the Hayyards as well.
Hi Todd... Good point, but the kit came with instructions, and they didn't include backing plates, (which I think would be overkill, but I'm not against it).. good point on the over drilling, I did that on holes after these and on my rudder holes, but the factory never did.
How did the jib downhaul wind up working out? Did you find that you used it all the time, or did you still have to go up there to wrangle the jib? Worth the effort installing or skip it?
Totally worth it... you can douse the jib and use the sheets to keep it on deck... eventually you'll go up to secure the sail on the deck. Many times I was able to wait until all the sails were down to go up there or until we go to our anchor location.
Sold the boat but I think they were the stock winches... www.catalinadirect.com/shop-by-category/misc-hardware/winches/winch-lewmar-7-chrome/?SearchResults=1
If money wasn't an issue (within reasonableness), would purchasing better quality deck organizers and blocks be better? I noticed in the beginning clips your jib blocks were springloaded stand-up type. I know my originals are not that type of spring-loaded. Did you upgrade yours? Is it better?
@@AdventuresInParadise I don't have words to thank you enough for all the answers to so many of my questions you provide me. My older brother used to tell me: "The first thing you learn about any new hobby is bought all the wrong stuff? so I am trying to learn from you guys and not make as many mistakes that I know I will make, but I will learn from them all.
@@benkanobe7500 Now that I think about it, the jib blocks did have the springs, but it just keeps them upright, which works well... I think I got one new one for one side that broke and they were the same as original. The deck organizer was for when I led the main sheet back and that worked fine. Thanks for the kind words!
It's been fine, you have to step over it, but you cannot walk along these boats without stepping over everything anyway, and you could go the other way also. It's working well and most of the time I don't have to even go up there anymore since it's all coming back.
Thanks for this. I am currently looking at C22"s and have one in mind but the lines do not lead aft. Your video showed me how easy it is to correct that. I appreciate you honesty in showing your mistakes. I make them every time I leave the dock but I always learn from them.
The best thing we ever did to that boat. Sold it a few years ago to move to a larger boat, but absolutely one of the best mods we did to this little boat.
@@AdventuresInParadise on a little boat that’s hard to get around on-ok. A more stable boat that you can get around the deck on more easily-that is so much clutter (especially when you have to paint). I have accepted roller furling of late only because it keeps the jib out of the way for anchoring. I hate to see people fall for all the gadgets.
Random guy walking by being Captain Obvious. Yes, I know it’s easier to do ashore but it’s not worth the time and hassle to haul out for rather simple projects. Just finished completely replacing all rigging while at the dock. Only lost a couple parts to the deep.
Cool, well I wish I could have watched a video prior to doing mine. I could not test because I need to wait for the sealant to try so it won't get on the halyards, but I'm eager to try it next weekend.
Love all the enthusiasm! I’ve had my 22 for 33 years, and still can’t get enough sailing time.
This is the realest sailing channel I've found. Thanks for all of these great videos!
Thanks! I really appreciate that!
Thank you for all your videos! I love the fact that you keep the mistakes in. We all make them and it’s nice to learn from yours. I’ve had my ‘73 for 4 years and have yet to raise the mast and sail. Downside of buying a project boat. Cheap up front, but time consuming. Glad to see you and Suzy enjoying the sailing! Have fun!
The clip things are called shackles. The cool little ends are called acorn nuts. Sailboat pulleys are called blocks. I like using butyl tape to bed the hardware. You can use it in bad weather and it’s better than silicone sealant. When using silicone type sealant, you want to let it set up before you tighten down the hardware all the way, so all of it doesn’t squeeze out.
Picking up a c22 project next Saturday. Love the mods. Gives me things to think about doing during the restoration, instead of after everything is complete.
Hey, thanks for making these videos!❤
They are inspiring me to get on with my Catalina 22 projects! 😊
Keep the videos coming man, love em. Just got my C22 two weeks ago!
Keep up the good work! Appreciate you taking the time to document. I ground out all the gel coat spiderwebs on my deck, and will be fairing and painting this weekend. Can’t wait to get to rigging my Catalina 22! Dunedin is my old stomping grounds and one of the first places we will trailer Savannah to for a weekend trip, hope to see y’all out there!
That's great! I'm also looking forward to replacing all the standing rigging after I borrow aa friends trailer. If you use the Dunedin ramp, say hi to Knot Enough floating out there! Or comment again prior to your trip and we'll look for you. Thanks for watching!
Nice addition to the boat. The down hull jib looks like a nice alternative to a roller furling jib. Definitely cheaper
Great video! I've been doing some extensive work on my C22 as well. A trick to avoid the sealant blowing out is to tighten the deck fitting down so it's snug, but giving it a little time to cure before torquing it all the way down. That way, it won't all spill out and it'll compress to fill in your countersunk holes and any irregularities in the deck. Keep the videos coming!
Extra long screws are for mounting through a backing block so line tension doesn't bend and distort the fiberglass.
Well that would have been nice to be in the instructions. Instead I've cut the screws so I hope it's okay!
@@AdventuresInParadise If you want some advice (always worth what it costs :) I'd at least get rid of the screws and through-bolt it to the hull with nice big washers on the inside. Cheap insurance.
loving the videos. I just bought a 1986 Cal 22 and even though they are different builds they are very similar. thanks. and I plan on doing just as you, learning and making this one perfect and then moving up in size. keep it up please!
So stoked to have found your channel...
Catolina 22’s are a nice handling boat, the Sailing School here in Southern Maryland where my wife and I went to to get our ASA 101 Certifications used those boats and they can handle a fairly good bit of wind!! Good video, just subscribed to your channel!!
Tim Castle. Where exactly is that school located? I would love to learn on the boat I'll be sailing. Or attempting to sail. 🤷♂️
The acorn cap nuts are pretty but still stick out enough to put a dent in one's scalp. I carefully measured the bolts to protrude only enough for a lock washer and flat nut (on for three turns). This keeps the protrusion to about half of the cap nut.
You really should have a hacksaw and some electrical tape on board and you would be able to customise bolt and cable lengths. A rechargable angle grinder would be pretty handy too!😃
Best practice when drilling through bolts into deck is to over drill the hole by twice the diameter. tape off the hole inside and back fill with thickened epoxy, let cure and drill out the correct size hole in the epoxy. This seals the plywood or balsa core from any water ingress under your hardware past whatever sealant you use. You know it will leak, you had to reseal your port lites.
I have seen that and agree! I'm about to rebed all the deck hardware now and will consider it as I see how the look. Using butyl tape this time.
You could use a Dremel cutting wheel to cut those bold.
You're amusing as hell and there is such a thing as measuring...
WOW! I can't begin to tell you how much I've learned and how TRULY INSPIRED I am by watching your videos. Y'all have a geat thing going here... I came back to the Knot Enough vids to ask a question and get your guidance here. Any chance I can email you my question? Thanks! :)
Just watching this in early September. A trick for your long screws is to tighten them down with regular nuts, cut the excess off with a Dremel, remove the nut and replace with the acorn nut, which will always have enough space inside. I noted the other comments about backing plates on the inside, you really need those. Fender washers would be a good choice.
I was at the boat today because I'm now rebedding all the deck hardware and saw those long screws again. Now that I'm in a slip I can take care of them. i think I will add larger washers when I cut them.
@@AdventuresInParadise You might even want to use a block of wood on the side to back long bolts. That gives you a mounting point for other accessories.
Long bolts can still be cut while installed. Run the washers and nuts on, Mark where they need cut, remove any washers, and backing plates, and only reinstall the nut. Cut the bolt, then bevel the straight edges from the cut with a file, no power tools here, then removing the nut will clean the threads. On a small boat like your, acorn nuts can be used to make it even better and less painful on human heads. As for the sealant, no need to cut. Place painters blue tape around the hardware perimeter prior to squeezing out the sealnt, and before the sealant gets tacky, with soappy water, use your finger to fair the sealant against the hardwars, then remove the tape. Makes for a cleaner installation. A jib downhaul is a great and safe idea on a hanked-on jib. I use the third reef (led aft) on my mainsail as a downhaul if I need to douse quickly. Very nice little boat.
Thanks! Knot Enough is now sold and you can check our our new boat in the latest tour video. I learned that tape trick when I did the windows later.. oh well! Thanks for taking the time to help! -Jason
Consider connecting your jib downhaul to the halyard in such a way that if the shackle comes open the downhaul remains connected to the halyard. That way you won't ever 'lose' your halyard at the top of the mast. Good job!
That's an interesting idea. I believe the instructions said to connect it a few hanks down so it piles in on the deck and won't blow off, which works. After using it for a while, I think it's main benefit is being able to douse the jib and, using the sheets, keep it on deck without going forward. I still like to get up there and secure it, but at least I can move on to the main sail and wait until under motor to go fix things up.
@@AdventuresInParadise Well, now I will have to try the way you suggest. The issue of 'collecting' the jib, even with the downhaul, is challenging for me.
Always drill oversized holes. Fill completely with epoxy. Then drill the smaller actual bolt holes. Use backing plates! Seal with butyl tape. Skipping these steps leads to water intrusion and rotted cores, spongy decks.
Im just here to find out how to to rig my boat. I put the mast up 2 days ago after 7 months of preparing my first boat (project boat).
All nice and well until I realised that the rigging is incomplete. I dont have a boom vang, there seems to be a system with some sort of key but its not with the parts I got, and I understand that there needs to be more support for the main sail. So far I just have the halyard but no clip or anything to keep the tack down or operate the clew.
So watching a other popular TH-cam sailboat refit chanel I learned about the drill fill drill method when installing deck hardware. 5200 works great but it doesn't seal the wood core like a hole filled with thickened epoxy. Just something to think about.
Those little "thiners" are called acorn nuts if you need to find/buy them
The bolts are long to allow a backing plate (essential) to be used!
Great video! I've been doing some extensive work on my C22 as well. A trick to avoid the sealant blowing out is to tighten the deck fitting down so it's snug, but giving it a little time to cure before torquing it all the way down. That way, it won't all spill out and it'll compress to fill in your countersunk holes and any irregularities in the deck. Keep the videos coming! www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/bedding-deck-hardware.asp
That's a great tip! I'll use this trick on all the deck hardware. Thank you!
You need to spread the tension out over a larger area. You also need to have different sizes on each side so that you don’t create a shear point. Probably worth a backer board purchase. 3/8” plywood?! A Dremel tool with a small cutoff disc to trim the bolts. Cap nuts are okay, but still hurt.
Hi! Great channel 👍 do you remember how long screws did you have to use to install spilock (deck organiser) for the lines led aft? I am getting all the fittings ready to reorganise my running rigging but my boat is 120 miles away from where o live so cant jut go over there to measure how thick the deck is? 🙏 thanks
Unfortunately, I don't know, but look at the kit on catalinadirect.com and call them they probably know.
If any one doing this put a wooden pad on the inside of the fiber glass to spread the load. if something snags it's just gonna rip the fitting out of the boat.
Hey was just in clearwater today looking at a Cat 22 looking to buy it. Anyway me and my gf get with you guys next time we are down to get some insight and ask some questions about your boat?
Sure! AdventuresinparadiseFL@gmail.com
I have a 1982 Macgregor 22 which is very similar to the Catalina 22 (shut up Macgregor detractors!).
I’ve accumulated most of the hardware for project but I’m curious about the length of the halyards and downhauls.
We’re you able to use the same halyards or did you need additional length?
Do the Halyards come with the kit to put them back to the cockpit or did you purchase everything separately? I know Catalina Direct makes a kit (hardware) , I just don't know if it comes with the Hayyards as well.
No backing plates? I would also over drill my holes and fill with epoxy, and then re drill to correct size
Hi Todd... Good point, but the kit came with instructions, and they didn't include backing plates, (which I think would be overkill, but I'm not against it).. good point on the over drilling, I did that on holes after these and on my rudder holes, but the factory never did.
Is this a kit I can purchase? Just bought a c22 yesterday.
How did the jib downhaul wind up working out? Did you find that you used it all the time, or did you still have to go up there to wrangle the jib? Worth the effort installing or skip it?
Totally worth it... you can douse the jib and use the sheets to keep it on deck... eventually you'll go up to secure the sail on the deck. Many times I was able to wait until all the sails were down to go up there or until we go to our anchor location.
Why do newer C-22s have a winch or winches on the top surface of the cabin just forward of about where the cam cleats are mounted?
Those would be for the mainsail halyard probably. If it's run back, otherwise it's at the mast.
I’m curious what size winches you were running on this boat. I’m torn between a couple sizes.
Sold the boat but I think they were the stock winches... www.catalinadirect.com/shop-by-category/misc-hardware/winches/winch-lewmar-7-chrome/?SearchResults=1
I have a 1984 Cat22 swing keel as well, hull # 12202! What's yours?
Good question. I can't find the photo that shows it! I'll have to take a new one. Is there any place to look the # up for any history on the boat?
Your in Dunedin Marina. Lets get A drink. Good vids
Thanks... I was with the 22 but not with the new 28' - we're up in Tarpon now. You have a boat in Dunedin?
I know this is an older video but do you have links to the parts you used for this?
no but you can find them on catalina direct dot com
Can you post a link for the blocks you use at the base of your mast or just the specs of the blocks - brand name and SKU.
specs
It’s the kit from Catalinadirect.com
If money wasn't an issue (within reasonableness), would purchasing better quality deck organizers and blocks be better? I noticed in the beginning clips your jib blocks were springloaded stand-up type. I know my originals are not that type of spring-loaded. Did you upgrade yours? Is it better?
I upgraded them. They aren't spring loaded, the spring just keeps them upright and off the deck.
@@AdventuresInParadise I don't have words to thank you enough for all the answers to so many of my questions you provide me. My older brother used to tell me: "The first thing you learn about any new hobby is bought all the wrong stuff? so I am trying to learn from you guys and not make as many mistakes that I know I will make, but I will learn from them all.
@@benkanobe7500 Now that I think about it, the jib blocks did have the springs, but it just keeps them upright, which works well... I think I got one new one for one side that broke and they were the same as original. The deck organizer was for when I led the main sheet back and that worked fine. Thanks for the kind words!
are you going to trip over the down haul line going to the cleat?
It's been fine, you have to step over it, but you cannot walk along these boats without stepping over everything anyway, and you could go the other way also. It's working well and most of the time I don't have to even go up there anymore since it's all coming back.
@@AdventuresInParadise Looks like your doing good things to be boat!
Thanks for this. I am currently looking at C22"s and have one in mind but the lines do not lead aft. Your video showed me how easy it is to correct that. I appreciate you honesty in showing your mistakes. I make them every time I leave the dock but I always learn from them.
Right on!
What kit did you buy and how much was it?????
Jib Downhaul kit was $65 and the Halyards to cockpit kit was close to $300. Get them at Catalinadirect.com
Bad idea-clutter and complication. Always good to remember the KISS principle.
The best thing we ever did to that boat. Sold it a few years ago to move to a larger boat, but absolutely one of the best mods we did to this little boat.
@@AdventuresInParadise on a little boat that’s hard to get around on-ok. A more stable boat that you can get around the deck on more easily-that is so much clutter (especially when you have to paint). I have accepted roller furling of late only because it keeps the jib out of the way for anchoring. I hate to see people fall for all the gadgets.
Should have drill them bigger, filled them with a epoxy in re-drilled them
Lines
Shackles!
Ha ha! That's right!!
“Ropes”
I know... LOL - I noticed that while editing and wondered if I did'n't do a voice over there, I'd get people correcting me :-)
Sheets.
Random guy walking by being Captain Obvious. Yes, I know it’s easier to do ashore but it’s not worth the time and hassle to haul out for rather simple projects. Just finished completely replacing all rigging while at the dock. Only lost a couple parts to the deep.
acorn nut
Have you heard of our Lord and savior, butyl tape.
Yea, check out our camper series - we used a ton of it, and I think when I rebed (?) all the deck hardware I'd prefer using it!
Doing same to mine , it’s in progress but being 15 degrees in Ohio it will be awhile before this project gets completed !
Cool, well I wish I could have watched a video prior to doing mine. I could not test because I need to wait for the sealant to try so it won't get on the halyards, but I'm eager to try it next weekend.