Oh boy , you opened up a can of worms here. I've done both methods many times . I usually use a flanging tool especially on long runs and there is an easy way to flange corners. You touched on the most important thing - GOOD WELD PENETRATION. For durability I use weld thru primer and a wax based rust proofing on the back side as moisture will find its way in and make your repair deteriorate. When I started working back in the 70s ,there were no mig welders or HSS on cars. We used to button braze panels on. If i'm hanging a qtr now I use panel bonder and flange weld the sail panel and rocker or dogleg. It is pleasure to watch you work ! Good body men are a dying breed.
I do butt weld it is better however back in the 80s and 90s I did a lot of overlap especially on cheater quarters. I carefully grind then tap the seam down a little then do filler. Cars I did back then still look great today.
a story on lap welds. during ww2, early build LST(landing ships) were built with lap welding on the hull plating. after the war, a couple of companies bought LST ships for commercial cargo use. they loaded them heavier than military cargoes and several broke apart at the plate seams. years later the US coast guard issued directive that said any LSTs in commercial use must have the areas of lap welds must be reinforced with a plate band around each lap weld section. the lap welded plate wasn't strong enough
It depends on where on a body the repair is gonna be...sometimes I can lap weld in combination with a butt weld and I always flange my lap welds which eliminates the step and the excessive grinding..... Sometimes a lap weld is an OEM way it was done so I use both methods as called for....most people usually Diyers are scared to blow through a butt weld they don't have to skill to do a good butt weld.
I do butt weld but i also have a Jennie that puts a step in it that is good for a factory type overlap then you fill the Chanel not as much grinding or distortion in my small 40year experience.hey from New Zealand 🇳🇿
The metal expands and contracts differently on a lap weld. Then it would on a butt weld or a panel thats never been repaired. And it will show up especially on hot days. And just looks like shit.
If lap welding where finish is critical i do a series of spot welds through the plate for additional strength . When ground flat it still gives more weld than just the lap seam only.
Lacking this tool, iw would cut and weld a 'fish plate' on the backside of the sheet metal, and lay ny patch on that. Somewhat more work, but basically the end result was the same.
Oh boy , you opened up a can of worms here. I've done both methods many times . I usually use a flanging tool especially on long runs and there is an easy way to flange corners. You touched on the most important thing - GOOD WELD PENETRATION. For durability I use weld thru primer and a wax based rust proofing on the back side as moisture will find its way in and make your repair deteriorate. When I started working back in the 70s ,there were no mig welders or HSS on cars. We used to button braze panels on. If i'm hanging a qtr now I use panel bonder and flange weld the sail panel and rocker or dogleg. It is pleasure to watch you work ! Good body men are a dying breed.
I do butt weld it is better however back in the 80s and 90s I did a lot of overlap especially on cheater quarters. I carefully grind then tap the seam down a little then do filler. Cars I did back then still look great today.
a story on lap welds. during ww2, early build LST(landing ships) were built with lap welding on the hull plating. after the war, a couple of companies bought LST ships for commercial cargo use. they loaded them heavier than military cargoes and several broke apart at the plate seams. years later the US coast guard issued directive that said any LSTs in commercial use must have the areas of lap welds must be reinforced with a plate band around each lap weld section. the lap welded plate wasn't strong enough
Lap it, tap it down, and fill it was the "used cheap car repair" that i was taught in AB school in the 90's. This is a "I give a chit repair" 👍
Oh the Old Cave and Pave!!
It depends on where on a body the repair is gonna be...sometimes I can lap weld in combination with a butt weld and I always flange my lap welds which eliminates the step and the excessive grinding..... Sometimes a lap weld is an OEM way it was done so I use both methods as called for....most people usually Diyers are scared to blow through a butt weld they don't have to skill to do a good butt weld.
I meant to mention in the video that EVERY factory seam is lapped, but few are "finished".
100%
I do butt weld but i also have a Jennie that puts a step in it that is good for a factory type overlap then you fill the Chanel not as much grinding or distortion in my small 40year experience.hey from New Zealand 🇳🇿
Butt, Jennie? Behave now...
@ it is true using my Jennie puts a hard ridge in my steel.lol
Love watching the experience at work on the classics.
Welding in the middle of a panel? Hand flanger and panel bond is my preferred method
You should always butt weld everything using a flange tool is the hack way
@jamesbarnes7045 sure, good luck
@@darylarmentrout252 your response tells me all I need to know of how much of a hack you are
@jamesbarnes7045 get off my nuts
You could go to work for Chad with that attitude.
Correct, moisture get trapped in the lap and rusts out fast……
The metal expands and contracts differently on a lap weld. Then it would on a butt weld or a panel thats never been repaired. And it will show up especially on hot days. And just looks like shit.
Hey!.. what about holding a candelabra up to the glue that is available at body shop suppliers that is used to glue quarter panels together.
If lap welding where finish is critical i do a series of spot welds through the plate for additional strength . When ground flat it still gives more weld than just the lap seam only.
Lacking this tool, iw would cut and weld a 'fish plate' on the backside of the sheet metal, and lay ny patch on that.
Somewhat more work, but basically the end result was the same.
You can also do what fitzee does on fitzees fabrication a cut and butt ❤ great explanation on your channel my friend ❤
Fitzee's videos are amazing
Nice job
I dont like lap welds in a situation like that because they leave places for moisture to hide, and you'll be redoing the cab corners in a few years.
Thank you
In between the sheets can hold moisture and accelerate corrosion also
Moisture between the sheets, hmmm.
cut it short put a bonding strip behind, weld 2x as much but repair is same level as original pannel, its fast an easy
And is a shyt repair.....cover it no one will see it
❤👀👍
Mint
coco the clown
You aren't Derick sorry
Derick who?