2013-2016 Ford Escape 1.6L Ecoboost P26B7 Coolant Bypass Valve "C" Replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ม.ค. 2021
- In this video we show you just how easy it can be to fix this common Bypass Valve failure on the 2013-2016 Ford Escape.
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How to Bleed the Cooling System-
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The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user and BSG Automotive (hereinafter “FordTechMakuloco”) makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. FordTechMakuloco shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by FordTechMakuloco and therefore, FordTechMakuloco does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge FordTechMakuloco or anyone affiliated with FordTechMakuloco, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Latest Ford Bypass Valve-
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Forscan is a free Ford Specific Diagnostic Software:
Download Here-
forscan.org/home.html
ELM 327 Adapter I Recommend-
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How to Bleed the Cooling System-
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have a stupid question. #3 stuck open. I have the trans valve body out.. Could I put the cover back on and idle the car without damaging the transmission ? Want to check for any metal in the system by placing a magnet inside valve space ?
If the coolant in the reservoir doesn't drop below the minimum line, do you still need to burp the coolant system?
@@Beiberhole69RVA Yes. Sometimes it takes a while for all the air to work itself out. I believe he posted instructions out of the workshop manual for the bleeding process. I would just go with that. However you do it, the most important thing is to watch the car and make sure it doesn't overheat.
Need ur help please. 02 ford f150 5.4l v8. High idle when turned on or idling. Replaced air control valve sensor, throttle sensor, cleaned all connectors and cleaned throttle body. --+ what could it be
My ford fusion 2016 does not have Transmission issues , but its giving mee kicks like it lags when going into a gear and if a break you can feel it aswell what can it be?
It lags when gear is going in and if i break it feels like im driving a standard car
Had one dropped off today. A 2016 se 1.6T. Customer gave me a coolant hose assembly and said that was the problem. Well I told him I have to diagnose the cooling system first before I install it. He told me that was the problem. Always enjoy watching your videos. I have learned some things from you and appreciate that. Take Care
Been waiting for you to post this fix. My check engine light comes on every now and then with this code, but goes away on its own. There are other videos out there, but yours is the most thorough and complete. Thanks man, keep it up! Now I'm confident on doing this finally.
I'm a total novice, but I was able to replace my coolant bypass valve with no problem due to your video. The close-ups and which tools you needed are especially helpful. Thank you! A couple of little bumps that I ran into... the release tab for the electrical connector on the old bypass valve in my 2013 Escape had to be pulled out instead of pushed in (it took me longer for me to figure this out than I'd like to admit), & I followed your tip for using a marker on the clamp & hose, but by the time I got the valve out of the hose my mark had worn off. My engine code turned off & I'm a happy camper. Thank you!
2013 Ford Escape SEL 1.6L 168,500 miles - Recent CEL - Diagnosed the P26B7 Code - Completed Coolant Control/Bypass Valve replacement over the weekend - A little tight working location for sure - A socket extension and swivel helped tremendously - Also used a long zip tie loosely pull several wire looms, etc. out of the way that made the working area a bit easier - Ensured there were no leaks after install - No more P26B7 Code - Excellent video - Thanks mate... \m/
So big thank you. Your video helped me fix my daughter’s car. Saved her a ton of money and no small feat with Inflation!
I have a 13 Escape and 14 Fusion.Both are 2.0 and AWD
I noticed that they are the fastest warming up cars I have ever owned.
Nice since I live in Canada
Happy New Year Brian and you have the Best Ford Repair channel hands down.
Every time I work on one of these Escapes, I feel like I've been teleported back to my VW/Audi service department days. And that's not a good feeling. lol Great job on the video, as always!
Not only Ford but the rest of the automakers have really made sure that vehicles are nearly impossible to work on - they're designed to be manufactured not to be repaired. How I miss my 1978 F150 with the 300 CI 6 - I could sit on the inner fender to work on the engine (and I only paid $4,700.00 for it brand new)!
Shit yeah.. I miss my old 1.6L and 1.3L pushrod crossflow escort engines.. they just never complain about anything.. just the odd dirty points and dizzy terminals or condenser ect never a huge deal just some sandpaper lol.. same with the 2.0L and 1.6L OHC mk5 cortina engines, just run so nice for so long and no issues.. those my two #1 favorite engines of all time from back in the day hands down.
love your videos dude, you've helped me do so much to my wife's 2013 escape. Much appreciated!
Great Vid! One of the worst inventions in recent times is the plastic radiator! The biggest reason to use a metal radiator instead of a plastic model is because it will extend the life of the product. When a vehicle’s thermostat opens, coolant that is heated to temperatures up to 200 degrees rushes into the radiator tank. This happens constantly when your vehicle is running, and this exposure to such a high temperature can cause a plastic radiator to crack. Once a plastic radiator is cracked, it needs to be replaced(Yeah Repairs create more problems). The aluminum core that rests within most plastic radiators is a little more durable, but even that isn’t as effective as the brass and copper radiators that have been widely used for years. I think as a society we should demand metal radiators! Radiator Failure can ruin ur engine and leave u stranded in a bad place!
My brain is time-warping back to 1976 and my first car. A ‘67 Fairlane with a 289 V8. The plugs, wires, cap and rotor were actually easy to see and change with the car parked by the curb in front of the house.
Only a true pro would know about the ohm value of the bypass valve. Great video !!!!
Thank you! Very helpful, thorough, and to the point.
I want to move to whatever town or city you're in and have you be my mechanic. Great job!
Heck yeah, either him or scotty Kilmer
Great job and video like always
And "another one"... great video! Not sure if my Mustang Ecoboost will have the same issue but still good to know.
Happy New Year !!
Great video. Very informative...
i have a FWD 2.0 2014 escape, I love your videos and would also love to see more about my car
I have the same,SEL AWD.
Thank you @FordTechMakuloco. Today my Ford Kuga 2014 (Ford Escape in Malaysia) Have check engine light. luckily i have a cheap OBDII scanner. I scanned the system and its P26B7 and i cant find the code in the app. But thank you very much you have this video just uploaded this year. Keep it uppp you can hit 1m sub in no time.
Very professional video much impressed
Great video. We're doing one of these tomorrow. We appreciate the info and video.
The other fun job is replacing the plastic shift cable that bresks on all these and the Fusion , just an unbelievable amount of work to access and change out. So after the third one I found a was to just swap the eyelet bushing at the trans shift lever saving about 5 hours labor.
Dude you rock and are so helpful
Nice video, I changed it myself. Dealer priced 399. I got a part from Amazon for 50 $. Unfortunately, hose connected to bypass solenoid leaks. Looks like need to get hose clamp
Huge help thank you. I'm sure it saved me tons of money
Love this guy. He should add in every video involving coolant that it needs to be updated. Ford put in pink but now they are calling for yellow coolant.
Is there an engine under all the hoses and wiring harness?
I had to replace mine about 2 years ago.
2014 Escape.
I used FORscan
very informative videos!
Great video Brian,👍 any chance of doing a PCV valve replacement for this vehicle?
Hi man, thanks for all the technical information you been sharing with us.
I currently have a Focus 1.6 ecoboost and it is give me P132b.
The car runs ok but at 4000rpm starts to hesitation boost, very strong hesitation, specially in 3rd gear towards. Sometimes the revs won't pass 5krpm
-Spark plus changed
-boost control solenoid changed
-BOV/recycle valve changed.
I would really appreciate any small help and i will also share you chanel with the ecoboost community groups.
Many thanks, Gabriel 👍
My fiesta st has the same problem. Is your car fixed? What was the issue? Thanks for your answer!
@@arekpiotrowski6454 boost control solenoid pipes connected wrong by Ford when they change the engine!!
Should I check for voltage problems first or just go ahead and replace it? Is it okay to drive for a little before getting it done?
always fun to watch someone else break their stones. you have patience .rip and tear
Nice job
Happy 2021, Brian!!
I've been thinking of you when I watch reviews of the "Mustang" Mach-E EV (notice the quotations...).
Wondering your thoughts, if any, on Ford's new EV. It looks like they've done a nice job overall. No timing belts on this model!!
THANK YOU I COULDN'T FIND PART, NOW I FIND GOBLES
The base model Escape (2.5 engine) of that generation would be a wiser choice then? I’ve seen a lot of Escapes with 1.6 turbo out there but I heard a lot of complaints on that powertrain.
I have a 2013 escape with 2.0l ecoboost. Is this different for the 1.6
Done plenty of these up here in Canada, little bit of silicone lubricant on the seal of that reservoir cap makes them substantially easier to remove and install.
Thats what I do.
You guys know where I can find the PCV valve?
Great channel, what's your thoughts on the 2020 7.3 ?
Hey man, I have a 08 F150 5.4 4x4 and it has 229,000 miles on it and I've noticed that whenever it's cold outside it doesn't idle up on a cold start like it used to. Do you know what controls that ?
Thanks 😎👍
I bought a 13 escape with 1.6l and noticed the know sensors were not attached to the block. Is there anyway you can help with location of where they attach to the block. Thanks - Jay
Do you know if they updated the plasma arc lining on the 2021 ford f150 5.0? So they are more reliable.
Hi there,
Thank you so much for this video.
I bought this 2013 Ford escape 1.6L from US to Nigeria over 4 months ago and I couldn't use the car.
The problem is overheating as soon as the AC is switched on.
The engine hot at d top but cool at the bottom.
Have changed the head gasket, thermostat etc but still no joy.
Is there any way you can advise please?
Thanks
I found an led light stick like the one you're using, under an F-150, dead of course. Would you reply back what charger you're using for it? I've tried looking up the lights model itself but it's been discontinued. 😑
Love your content man, especially the full sized truck videos!
I'm working on a 13 escape 1.6 and I have replaced everything and it's still not fixed.after it runs for a minute or two it'll say engine hot and the Guage will shoot up to hot but the engine isn't hot. Does anyone have a idea what it could be? Thanks
Thanks for the video. We have a 2013 1.6 escape, the serpentine belt broke, we replaced it and the battery had a dead cell, replaced it, still no start (run), changed crank pos sensor and still no start. Turns over but no start. Alternator? Coolant bypass? Any ideas?
Love your videos, but i eapecially live your comments section. So many people looking for free diag, posting so many random questions. If i were them, id get the hint, on how many of them go unanswered! 😂😂😂
I need an oil change is there a specific oil that I should use or just go anywhere and get an oil change? I know motorcraft has there own but would amsoil or Mobil 1 work be better?
Welcome back Brian! I wonder if you still have the Ram 1500 Ecodiesel...missed your knowledge!
nope
Took my 2014 Escape SE 1.6L to a trans shop this morning. They could not recreate the shift delay I experience daily, but did find a small oil leak at the turbo. Would that create a "shift delay" type symptom? vehicle has NO codes.
After I watch your videos I believe that some of the Ford engines are better than Toyota and Honda engines. You are Ford guru.
Is there any issue with not draining the coolant and refilling while doing this repair? I've been reading that introducing air into the coolant system can put you at risk of overheating. Does the air go away on it's own? or how does that work? I'm getting ready to do this repair myself, but would like to avoid draining the system as well as potentially worse problems down the line if I don't drain it.
I have a 2013 Ford escape the rear hatch wiper works when the hatch is open when it is closed it will not work if I bang on the motor area inside or outside it will move a little bit but as soon as I open the hatch it works fine could it be a Weak wire where the rubber boot is any ideas would help me thank you I like watching your videos also
2013 escape 2.0. Is this the same part and same symptoms. Car won’t blow warm air. Warm air only when moving?
Is that coolant drain just a quarter turn to open?
I've had my escape go into limp mode three times now. Says it's over heating but is fine when vehicles in park. They have said the past two times it's the coolant bypass valve. Kinda of tired of towing bills and this is something I can easily do myself but in my case its not just giving a engine light its completely shutting down. I had it towed to the dealership but I'm half tempted to just go there and slap one on and see if it fixes it. It's been around $800 dollars everytime
Do you know what the black and green fitting hose is on the front of the motor. It comes off the silver piece. Mine keeps popping out and wont stay in
Do you have a video on replacing “Genuine OE Ford Water Outlet
Bm5z-8k556-b”? If not what are the odds this part ever goes out?
What happened to the exhaust manifolds on Ford's 4 and 3 cylinder engines?
Would this valve being bad in my car cause it to say it's overheating when I've only been running 5 minutes in 20°weather?
Simple question... when these go bad, do they leak? And or what are the symptoms?
Thanks
I'm trying but my radiator plug isn't coming out. How bad would it be to not drain it before switching?
I Have A 2013 Ford Escape SEL1.6 Ecoboost .I Have Replaced The Lower A/C Hose Twice In 6 Months But Still Leaks From The Bottom Hose Aluminum Ball.Can You Tell Me Why?
Symptoms of what is encountered in the first place would be most welcomed. For example, is there a leak associated with this and if so where is it ? How much is lost and would it continue leaking until the expansion tank is empty ? Wouldn't there be symptoms before it throws a code ?
I agree... did you find anything out ?
I have a 2014 Escape that has low heater temperature output that gets worse at idle. One hose is hot , one is cool. There is good flow through the heater core. I took the hoses off and flushed the core with air and water. There is absolutely no flow restriction in the core. I saw on Identifix where some guys fixed this problem by replacing the Heater Bypass Valve. Can the valve close off and not allow much coolant to flow through the heater core if it's bad? I don't have any engine codes.
I have a 2016 F150 5.0 lariat. It stalls out at red lights sometimes. Is it the canister pruge valve?
Dealer quoted me $750 to change this and also said that a coolant flush is necessary afterwards. Any advice? I drive a 2019 Toyota RAV4 Adventure with 50,000 miles
Question I have a 2014 ford escape with 2.0 engine code p2681 showed up but can’t find the piece like it’s not there at all
Thank You for another great video! What model torque wrench is that? What model light bar is that?
Matco TRB250 but they dont make them any more. They have a new design but is bigger.
Quick question a shop cross threaded one of the bolts and now it won't come off. What can I do?
Help I recently changed my canister purge valve.
Drove good for a week now I’m getting a p1450 p0106 p0113 p0236 code.
My car will not run fast
My turbo sounds like it flutters when running sound like it’s stuck
Any idea what I can do
Hi found this after just replaced my thermostat housing. It failed on the inlet/seal. Replaced and when refilled came in limp mode says stop engine overheating. Temperature gauge was up in the red. Car in SA fitted with a level as a callback mod after a few fires in the engine. Battery left disconnected over night. Saw your other video how to bleed burp it. So I'll try that as the valve didn't open resitance is in range but only 5 volts. Was working before or had it latched fault in ECM. So giving a ghost fault. Sorry a long story. From Capetown mines a 1.6 Kuga
What’s that other black plastic housing under that valve ? Mines leaking coolant from there
Do you have to purge the system after to remove air bubbles
I got mine done at the dealership and it costed me a total of 600$ after the coolant was replaced it started making like a sucking noise every time I turn on the car but no problems
It's wild I've been quoted 700 and 500 to get this replaced but I could def do it myself 😭
Please do a Complete Coolant "Flush" on a 2014 Ford Escape 2.0 Turbo...? It would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Bj ~ Palestine, Texas
Do these ever leak coolant without actually going bad? I seem to have a slow leak coming from this area but having difficulty figuring out if it's from this piece or the hose under it.
Sorry for replying ti this old post but was this your issue? I'm not throwing codes but also have a leak in this area. Did you notice the seal damaged or anything that could have caused it to leak?
Hey man, We did a timing belt and water pump on a 13 model escape just like the one in this video. After the work was done we have a really erratic idle. Idle with ACMAX on is bouncing between 650 and 900 most of the time. Every once in a while jumps way up to 2000,2100. We have re-timed everything to make sure we hadn't missed anything. We've looked for vacuum issues until we're blue in the face. No codes come up driving, KOEO, or KOER. I need some input. I appreciate your time.
The harnonic balancer must be timed to the crankshaft. There is an alignment tool for it.
Will this valve cause a leak when it goes out
Thanks! You saved me $400. It wasn't an easy job though. There is a good chance I will let experts do it next time
I got a 2014 Ford Escape 2.0 and can’t find where the orifice tube would go does anyone know?
Are you going to do a follow up on trying to fix the cluster on the van with the speedometer problem?
No, we sent it off for repair like usual. They replaced the IC chip.
If you are referring to the screen going bad, I found a video where I bought the screen for $90 and replaced it myself with minimal work. No need to reprogram milage. Dealership quoted me $950
would it be best to replace this at the same time you do the cannister purge valve? ours has both codes
I replaced both of these at the same time since I had both codes. I replaced the canister purge valve first since you have to remove the air filter box for that, and that gave me a little extra space to work on replacing the coolant bypass valve
Do you have a 90 degree adapter of some sort to fit a vacuum coolant fill device on that coolant bottle fill cap? I have one but since Ford decided to put the fill cap way up under the cowl I can't fit it up under there height wise. Dumb design. Ive tried to remove the coolant bottle and move it out to make room but for the life of me I cannot get that rear clip to come loose and was afraid of breaking the bottle. Thanks for the video.
I use a long thin funnel that has been heated then deformed to meet the requirements of the vehicle.
Why am I able to still run the car with the engine light on and it's not overheating but it shows those codes I still going to replace the part but I guess I'm taking a chance
The code says it's either leaking or loose, does that mean I must replace it?
My wife’s 2013 escape 1.6 has leaked in that area for 3 or so years since we had the bypass sensor replaced.
He how are you I have a 2004 ford 150 with a p0351 code the coil A is working but the injector has no pulse I check the continuity and its ok and the a/c stop working after that I would appreciate your help.
pcm problem, harness wires of the injector, send the injectors to ultrasonic cleaning
Thank you for this info! Is engine overheating one of the symptoms of a bad coolant bypass valve?
Is it a 2013 escape? Lol they are very common to false overheat. Check the code, if it’s this yeah should fix it. It’s it has to do with the turbo bypass solenoid or whatever then that’s just the solenoid. Very common for these
@@RBoysMedia Thank you!
Great Videos, love your channel. I’m down sizing my F150 and thinking about a Bronco Sport. Do you think it’s a better design than older escape? Would the 1.5 3 cylinder be worthy? I’m nervous on buying a turbo. Thanks
Bro are you serious? Deep inside you know they're gonna be shoddy & prone to many issues
What size are the nuts for the valve?
My check engine light comes maybe once every two weeks and it says its this code is it something to worry about if its not on all the time
It does not over heat runs normal it only comes on when engine isnt warmed up
I am reading the dealer reconditioning invoice for a used 2015 Ford Escape that I am interested in purchasing. The car has been on their lot for 2 months without selling. It's $13,440 and has 105K miles - not terrible but not great mileage. Might be okay for my elderly father who wll be driving at most 200 miles a month. I asked why it hasn't sold at what seems like a good deal. Dealer dude says he thinks people may be scared off because of the high mileage. Um, okay, maybe.
The dealer repairs totaled $4,000 which seems high. A lot of the work was to replace all tires, replaced front and rear rotors and all 4 pads, oil change, top off fluids, windshield chip, replace rear seat trim panel, full vehicle touchup. These all seem like standard work to prepare a used car for sale, maybe. But, as I read more detail I see some things which I am questioning if this is the real reason the car hasn't been purchased --
1. Peform Full Vehicle Detail - Heavy compound excessive scratching and/or hard water staining around veh abap
2. Cleaned oil residue and installed Blue Devil treatment; CLEANED LEAKING TURBO AND PIPES, ADDED BLUE DEVIL
3. Replaced driver tail light assembly (dealer dude says the picture he has showed the light had like fog/moisture in it); maybe a small crack I ask? I asked if the car had been in an accident which isn't on the CARFAX report -maybe.
4. Perform body repairs
5. Customer states the MIL light is on - DURING QC THE MIL LIGHT CAME ON. PERFORMED DIAG FOR CODE P26B7. COOLANT BYPASS VALVE SPEC IS 7-14 OHMS, TESTING AT 214 OHMS. NEED TO REPLACE VALUE & RECHECK.
6. REPLACE COOLANT BYPASS VALVE AND COOLANT, TEST DROVE 2 CYCLES, RECHECKED
Items 2, 5, 6 concern me. What more should I be looking for or asking? Or should I run in the other direction?
Run. These escapes have an issue around 100k (if you're lucky) where they leak coolant into cylinder 3 and ruin the engine. Ford issued a recall due to the issue but their solution was a coolant level sensor to make sure you don't run out of coolant due to the leak. It didn't fix the issue and there's multiple class actions due to it. They seem to give almost everyone the run around on this. If you did purchase it I would try your damnedest to trade it in/sell it before any warranty or issues arise. I had mine for 5 months and just got quoted $10,000 for a new engine, which to my knowledge will have the same exact issue. Only codes I ever got were cleared by adding coolant. Search 2014 escape Ecoboost engine coolant leak and you should see plenty.
The dealer either doesn't know or wants to get rid of it to someone exactly like your father who will not drive it enough to see the damage before any short warranty they provide expires.
Are those a normally open valve ? Would detaching the control and making sure it’s not latched shut at least keep me on the road?
I got the one off Amazon looks like it’s normally closed by a spring and the 12v pulls it open
Does this work for a 2012 model?
Question, our 1.6 escape takes forever to heat up in cool weather almost 15 miles before it gets to temp. Dealer replaced this valve under warranty but that did not solve the issue. Do you think it could be a slightly open thermostat? Do you see any problems like this come in? On a side note, I did test drive a new 1.6 at the dealer and it was up to temp within a few block.
Is it taking a long time for the heater to heat the cabin air, or are you just watching the gauge?
@@solarfall2728 Both