Thank you SO MUCH for doing this video! I have a 2016 Ford Escape Titanium EcoBoost. It's been doing CRAZY stuff like door locking & unlocking multiple times and hazard lights flashing at the same time, then sometimes my fuel pump will start making whining noise! My daughter calls it Gremlins in the car! It's so random. TWICE it has completely died going down the road at 50mph plus! And once or twice chugging but not dying. TWICE I've had it towed to the dealership (extended warranty) and they can't find anything wrong with it because it won't "throw a code". Heaven forbid they actually try to figure it out without a computer!! My car has been in the shop for 5 days now with no result. I've told them and told them it has to be something electrical because of all the Gremlins going off at the same time. I bought it used in 2021 from a major dealership with low miles. Have had no problems until the last year with this. Also went through a car wash recently and drove away and it immediately started all the chugging again but didn't die. Then later it was fine. I feel like it got moisture in the wires somewhere that are maybe rubbed like your video. I'm LITERALLY going to show them this video!! Then if it is the problem, I'm going to ask to be paid labor for my efforts! Lol! Ridiculous! It's so dangerous for us to keep riding in this vehicle with this issue! Last time my daughter thought the car was catching fire and scared us both half to death! I've learned my lesson about Fords!!
I’m having the same issue on a 2014 Escape SE 1.6L. Have already changed the low pressure fuel pump and flp sensor at great expense and issue still exists. Will give this a try. Thanks
Thanks sir,u may have saved me thousands,I'm having this same problem on my 2013 excape 2.0 ..I'll do this before I take it to a crooked dealership......thanks
Damn and this is why no check engine lights stay on sometimes because it's thinking the electrical is going the job correctly because typically it's just a ground out the signal issues anyway. Fukn legendary find.
Having the same problem with my wife’s 2016 ford escape 1.6. Went to do the same thing you illustrated in this video but it doesn’t have the same wiring harness by the vacuum line
Once you do that and you use electrical tape, you can also put an old rubber hose around the outside of the harness and place a cut 2" hose around the aluminum to prevent the harness rubbing at all. You should also clean out the valves with GDI cleaner to clear out the carbon build up. After that the engine will be great.
Ohh my god, This was my issue! I would feel my engine pull intermittently when I accelerate, I would take my foot off the accelerator and it would stop. I checked the metal on the vacuum pump, and it was shiny clean, opened the harness and there were two wires with exposed copper wiring. Covered them up with electrical tape and boom, issue resolved!
I just bought a 2013 Ford Escape SE with the 1.6L engine and on the second day after buying it, I have the same problem. I will check the wire harness as indicated in this video.
Sorry to be so offtopic but does anybody know a trick to get back into an instagram account?? I stupidly forgot my password. I love any assistance you can offer me.
@Jerry Ali I really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and im waiting for the hacking stuff now. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
I have the 2016 Ford Escape titanium with the 2.0 ecoboost. I thought I would check my vehicle to see if it has that wire harness rub through. Sure enough mine was doing it even thought the 2016 was supposed to be fixed right from the factory. Mine was just starting to rub so I wrapped it with electrical tape and used a wire tie and just slightly pulled the harness away from the rub through spot as listed.
I own a 2016 Ford Escape titanium 2.0 ecoboost and I found this video in the spring. I decided to check my wire loom and nothing was damaged. But to be safe I wire tied my loom so it would not happen. I just went out and checked and found the Ford had removed my wire tie at my last service and the loom was just starting to rub. I called my Ford dealership and asked why they would have removed it. I was told if it is not a Ford approved repair it could not stay like I had it. It was not touching any wires or hoses and told them to leave the damn wire ties the way I had it. I told them I am trying to prevent any damage in the future. Unfortunately I am tied to this dealership because there is a life time power train warranty that is through this dealer. Also I have extended warranty that I paid a fortune for So they have to do all my service work to keep the lifetime power train warranty. I do all my own work accept for the fluid changes.
Thank you for the great video. My mom has a 2013 and it stalls while in drive but only when the AC is on. Do you think it could still be this problem or do you know if it could be something else?
Buck that sounds like a vacuum leak (tear or disconnected hose) to be honest.. if it’s only when the AC is on. Also the easiest thing to check is her battery and voltage first.
My 2013 Escape just had an issue of stalling and all the idiot lights coming on. It's the first time it happened so this is something I will check. But first will be the battery, even though it's only two years old, I've had a problem with the negative cable getting a lot of corrosion. I'll rule those problems out but I'll also inspect that wire harness. I have a 2006 Expedition that also has a wiring harness issue, since the designers decided to put the wire harness right next to the heater hoses. I've had issues with the wires literally melting!
My daughter has a Ford Escape 2013. She bought it used. While she is driving the engine goes off. Car slows and she has to restart. Dangerous. It has happened whilst driving and turning in intersections. Is this considered stalling? Could this be the problem? 3 different mechanics have found nothing.
Correct my friend, that is stalling. It absolutely could be the harness issue I describe in the video, but technically could be many things, fuel issue, ignition issue, vacuum issue. Make sure to get on Ford's website ASAP and run her VIN number to check for open recalls. Hopefully there is one, so that Ford will cover it. Please let me know what happens.
I just bought the 2013 4WD Ecoboost w/ 2.0 and started having this stalling issue a week after. I haven’t checked on the damage yet, but if it’s bad enough is this something I can direct a shop or the dealer to for a fix if I didn’t want to try myself? Would it be pricey to replace those wires?
@@MidknightMechanics Thank you for the info and your response! It’s showing I have recalls related to the a door latch and transmission shifter cable bushing. A repair was done on the door latch, but it says there is no remedy for the cable bushing yet. These were issued in June of this year. There’s also a CSP for extended warranty coverage on ABS speed signal which I had issues with today. Do I just bring this information to the dealer or should I go back to the lot that sold me the car and get a warranty they offered and have them fix it and reimburse it later?
I forgot to mention I did go to Nortons Car Stereo and got a system put car im wondering now if this could be a problem too I just got a new battery paid 450 for the battery and labor.
Ugh probably the most I’ve ever heard for a battery swap. It absolutely could be tied to this, if they possibly disturbed the engine harness I talk about in this video- they may have routed the main power wire for your amplifier on this same harness (they would have zip tied it, to it). If you’re not at a Ford dealer for this diagnosis I would highly recommend getting out of where you are, and taking it to one. A single diagnostic will only cost you about $160 MAX, to find this issue. Some shops just do NOT have the experience. Ford will have seen what your exact escape is doing and know exactly how to approach the fix. Have you ran your VIN on the Ford recall website yet!? Sorry for the kind of bad news but I have a lot of experience with diagnostics, and seeing people get ripped off left and right at Independent shops. When it came to the battery- did an independent do it, or was it Ford?
Man I have a 2013 ford escape and everytime I fill up my gas tank it jerks around and stalls I have press the gas hard to get off. Only when I get up but i took the car to Jiffy Lube they ran a test said it was a bad gas cylinder and they having trouble finding the part. Been calling off And on 3 months now I’m take it somewhere else this weekend and I’m see if they say the thing and cost part and labor $800.
2015 Ford Escape 1.6L Eco boost stalled at stop sign {end of 2017} and never started again. Heard a loud humming noise coming from behind front passenger seat 3 times prior. Once in city while driving and twice on the highway. Replaced spark plugs; battery and fuel rail. Don't know what to do. Dealership said low oil pressure. Kicks over but won't start.
Ricky take one of the plugs back out, snap it into the coil pack, let it rest on top of the valve cover, keep your hands clear, have someone crank the engine while you look for spark on that plug. If you have spark, you know it's a fuel issue (maybe pump) or ignition electronics issue. Also run your VIN on Ford's website to check for the recalls.
Hello I have a 2013 escape my car has a weird situation going on the car will drive fine for a few miles then when coming to a complete stop the accelerator will feel like there's no power to the pedal. What could this possibly be?
My 2013 1.6L SE suddenly went into limp mode. After looking around under the hood and checking the wiring and connections, I found several wires that were frayed and slightly burnt. I fixed them myself for free...problem solved!
Hi midnight mechanic's! Great video! However, my harness wasn't rubbing against the vacuum pump. We've ran the Vin number and there's only a recall for transmission solenoid. We've already had it in the shop multiple times after we bought it used. It's a 2013 ecoboost Ford Escape with push button start. It has stalled on interstate and other places and sometimes doesn't start. The problems are intermittent. The battery, negative cable and sensor have been replaced. And the 3rd time we took it to the shop, the said they had to replace the computer/ECM and we had to buy a second transponder remote for them to program it. And it still does the same thing and throws multiple codes. Like engine start fault, BLIS, cross traffic, etc.. the wiring harness near the vacuum pump isn't even touching it. It's well tied and clipped all around. Anything else it could be?
James you didn't buy it new did you? These sound like previous flood/major accident & reconstructed style issues since you already did an ecm, and you're saying your harness definitely isn't rubbing. Otherwise everything you said, are symptoms of a harness/wiring short. Make sure to follow the harness as far as you can. Not just on the corner of the vac pump.
@@MidknightMechanics awesome!! I had a feeling u might say that. About it being a short somewhere, still, with wiring. Thank u so much for the reply. It is a used vehicle and we never got the carfax on it even tho they said this were included with our paperwork. As soon as the dealership finds what's wrong with it, I'll be sure to repost and update everyone. Thanks again, God bless
I have this same issue. Everytime I fill my gas tank up completely, and then stop at a light for too long, it acts like its trying to "turn on" again, even though its on, and then I get a message telling me to turn my car completely off and turn it back on. After I use a little bit of gas, then this issue never happens again, until I fill up again. Is this an easy fix?
Not very easy Rena, the shorts are hidden inside the main harnesses insulation. First of though, google Ford recalls, and type in your Vin number (or just call Ford) to see if your VIN is covered, under the recall for these issues. Let me know how it goes, I really appreciate the feedback.
I have a 2017 ford escape. Had the transmission replaced, 4mo later the acceleration is sluggish. Ford couldn't find codes, I requested replacing spark plugs & air filter. Got it back & now it jolts when accelerating (sometimes not always) does this sound like the MAF? I would greatly appreciate input 🙏
Hey Crystal. This could be a lot of different things. If the check engine light is back on, it could be the exact issue in my video- a short in the main harness that caused a national recall on some year escapes because it's fraying against the engine's (metal) valve cover (right next to the cam driven vacuum pump, in my video). But, if your check engine light (CEL) is blinking then going solid, that means misfire- do NOT drive it while misfiring. If this is the case, you could have a bad coil pack, could have the fraying main harness issue, or could have a bad throttle body, and technically yes- you could have a bad MAF sensor but that's very rare. Usually when you're MAF is bad, it won't idle smoothly when in park or neutral, and usually stall. Go get your codes scanned for free by one of the auto parts stores and let me know the codes. Fords are more known for the throttle body to get water/moisture inside of them and make it short- this could easily cause sluggish acceleration or "surging".
@@MidknightMechanics That's the crazy thing! There isn't a light on. Even when I took it in for slower than usual acceleration there was no light & ford couldn't pull any codes. I had them replace the spark plugs & air filter in hopes it'd improve. Before I took it in it wasn't jolting, just sluggish when accelerating. I'm not sure if the new plugs caused the issue to create jolting due to more power from the plugs. I just know something is wrong & ford acts like they couldn't figure it out.....
@@Crystal-km1wr that really stinks. Any chance you ran the VIN through the Ford recall database yet? Usually a 2017 might not even need plugs by now, really depends on mileage. Make sure the simple things have been done, replace your intake air filter, get a full tank of premium- since it's a turbo and direct injection, the higher octane gas helps burn hotter and cleaner, so your valves don't get coated with Carbon (but best thing you could be doing is never going over 6k on oil changes to prevent sludge in the engine). Remember, Ford won't take it up on themselves to find other issues or do a full inspection unless you order/ask for it. Since you still have no codes , I would mean more towards the main harness short that I describe in my video. Sometimes shorts can cause zero CELs, or a laundry list of CELs. Also it's important because that harness has wires that feed all of the coil packs- which obviously fire your spark plugs.
Deb - I used electrical tape, and taped each wire that had worn down and started to short against the engine. I didn't have to solder or replace the wires because this one was still in the early stages. Which means, it hadn't broken any copper strands of the wire yet.
Francine all my research only shows the 2.0t's having these issues. But, you should still run your VIN # through the online recall system just to make sure Ford doesn't have a recall for your Escape too.
@@MidknightMechanics I have a 2013 SE 1.6L and there is no recall for this model. I just started having this issue and autozone pulled faulty fuel pump or pressure sensor. When it stalls the oil light, battery and engine light comes on. It usually happens a few seconds after I start the car and pull off. It sputters and just loses power. I have an appointment with Ford on Monday but now I'm second guessing.
I couldnt even see what you were holding up in the car. The engine part was perfect You got to tilt a bit more when showing things close to you. What was that odb2 reader you had for the ford?
You are the ford escape master. Fuck this car. I've had every problem you've described. I've almost died. Spent hundred s. This car has really stressed me out. And my family. Smh. Thanks so much for your post
When Ford was making the escapes, they routed the wires too tight against the engine. So when the engine moves during normal driving, the engine eventually will scrape and remove the insulation from the wires, due to friction. Which then causes the metal on metal short.
Hope you are still around. Lol. Have a 2013 Ford Edge stalling when RPMs are low. 2.0 ecoboost 70k miles. New battery, New oil pressure sensor, New purge valve. Still stalling but not all the time, won't do it for like 5 days then will do it for next 2 then nothing for a few more days, then boom again. Think this is it?
I hope i'm still around too. It sure as heck could be. This is the type of symptoms my customer told me when he brought it to me. A big, big hint is if you scan the car, it has a million codes for misfires, fuel issues, throttle body, vacuum codes and etc- that means its a short, or electrical related because you know, all these components haven't failed all at once, when you can go 5 days without a stall. Carefully go check the back side of your harness where it might be touching the valve cover or other aluminum. But FIRST- go check your VIN online because the 2013 was an official year of recall- as i mention in the video.
If you can’t find an honest and dependable independent mechanic, look harder. Ask people you know and trust. They’re out there. DO NOT wait until a problem arises. Typically, a respectable mechanic is booked out, like a dentist or caterer with reliable reviews. A dealer’s business runs on HUGE overhead. Guess who covers that liability? Mechanics, dentistry and cooking all share skill traits. For 35 years, I made a living primarily from one. Now I enjoy both the others.
FOUND PROBLEM WITH PUSH START FORD BOUGHT FROM US AUTO SALES USED CAR DEALERSHIP!!!! they put a GPS tracker on the car so they can find your car if they have to repo it. Well the Ford dealership just found where the company, US Auto uses called SureTrac put this GPS tracker in the car and had cut wires that went to the push start. So sometimes the car wouldn't start. Intermittent issues and would cut off while driving on the interstate or wherever. The push start would lose signal connection with transponder/key fib remote start. ANYONE HAVING ISSUES WITH A USED 2013 FORD ESCAPE ECOBOOST OR ANY OTHER REMOTE START FROM USED CAR COMPANY NEEDS TO HAVE SHOP CHECK WHERE THE GPS TRACKER WAS INSTALLED!!!
@Midknight Mechanics Yes Sir, the name of the dealer was U.S. Auto Sales in Lithia Springs Ga.. I hope this helps someone. I hope it was ok to add this comment. I just want to help give someone an idea where to check if they go around and around with a used dealership about a problem like we have.
All I gotta say is… them new ford vehicles are nothing but garbage, too many electronic bs, might as well be electric vehicles all the way. One sensors throws the vehicle into being worthless 😡
Thank you SO MUCH for doing this video! I have a 2016 Ford Escape Titanium EcoBoost. It's been doing CRAZY stuff like door locking & unlocking multiple times and hazard lights flashing at the same time, then sometimes my fuel pump will start making whining noise! My daughter calls it Gremlins in the car! It's so random. TWICE it has completely died going down the road at 50mph plus! And once or twice chugging but not dying. TWICE I've had it towed to the dealership (extended warranty) and they can't find anything wrong with it because it won't "throw a code". Heaven forbid they actually try to figure it out without a computer!! My car has been in the shop for 5 days now with no result. I've told them and told them it has to be something electrical because of all the Gremlins going off at the same time. I bought it used in 2021 from a major dealership with low miles. Have had no problems until the last year with this. Also went through a car wash recently and drove away and it immediately started all the chugging again but didn't die. Then later it was fine. I feel like it got moisture in the wires somewhere that are maybe rubbed like your video. I'm LITERALLY going to show them this video!! Then if it is the problem, I'm going to ask to be paid labor for my efforts! Lol! Ridiculous! It's so dangerous for us to keep riding in this vehicle with this issue! Last time my daughter thought the car was catching fire and scared us both half to death! I've learned my lesson about Fords!!
My nephew is having everyone of the problems you was talking about sir !! Great work and thanks for the help
Anytime Ron. First have him make sure he doesn't have an open recall for this, that can be taken care of by Ford for free.
@@MidknightMechanics okay thanks
My fiancé escape was doing this... we fixed it by trading it in for a GMC Yukon.
Strange I have a 2013 with the same engine. 120,000 miles and it never did anything like this. Runs like new.
I’m having the same issue on a 2014 Escape SE 1.6L. Have already changed the low pressure fuel pump and flp sensor at great expense and issue still exists. Will give this a try. Thanks
Thanks sir,u may have saved me thousands,I'm having this same problem on my 2013 excape 2.0 ..I'll do this before I take it to a crooked dealership......thanks
Thanks for the details explanations and about the recall that detail saved my friend a lot of money she didn't have
Damn and this is why no check engine lights stay on sometimes because it's thinking the electrical is going the job correctly because typically it's just a ground out the signal issues anyway.
Fukn legendary find.
I just ran across your site. I have a 2917 Escape and will keep my ey e and ear open for these problems. I hate going to dealers.
Having the same problem with my wife’s 2016 ford escape 1.6. Went to do the same thing you illustrated in this video but it doesn’t have the same wiring harness by the vacuum line
I like this info! I have not had the problem, but I will put some protection between the wire bundle and the metal.
Once you do that and you use electrical tape, you can also put an old rubber hose around the outside of the harness and place a cut 2" hose around the aluminum to prevent the harness rubbing at all. You should also clean out the valves with GDI cleaner to clear out the carbon build up. After that the engine will be great.
Ohh my god, This was my issue! I would feel my engine pull intermittently when I accelerate, I would take my foot off the accelerator and it would stop. I checked the metal on the vacuum pump, and it was shiny clean, opened the harness and there were two wires with exposed copper wiring. Covered them up with electrical tape and boom, issue resolved!
Bryan thank you for the feedback man
I just bought a 2013 Ford Escape SE with the 1.6L engine and on the second day after buying it, I have the same problem. I will check the wire harness as indicated in this video.
Sorry to be so offtopic but does anybody know a trick to get back into an instagram account??
I stupidly forgot my password. I love any assistance you can offer me.
@Jorge Kane instablaster ;)
@Jerry Ali I really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and im waiting for the hacking stuff now.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
I have the 2016 Ford Escape titanium with the 2.0 ecoboost. I thought I would check my vehicle to see if it has that wire harness rub through. Sure enough mine was doing it even thought the 2016 was supposed to be fixed right from the factory. Mine was just starting to rub so I wrapped it with electrical tape and used a wire tie and just slightly pulled the harness away from the rub through spot as listed.
I’m going to try this. The escape I’m dealing with stalls only when stopped and in drive or reverse. So far. 🍻
O meu 2014 esta dando motor quebrado serviço imediato. Ja troquei bomba de combustível e até agora não resolveu nada
Subscribed just for using "idiot light" lol
I own a 2016 Ford Escape titanium 2.0 ecoboost and I found this video in the spring. I decided to check my wire loom and nothing was damaged. But to be safe I wire tied my loom so it would not happen. I just went out and checked and found the Ford had removed my wire tie at my last service and the loom was just starting to rub. I called my Ford dealership and asked why they would have removed it. I was told if it is not a Ford approved repair it could not stay like I had it. It was not touching any wires or hoses and told them to leave the damn wire ties the way I had it. I told them I am trying to prevent any damage in the future. Unfortunately I am tied to this dealership because there is a life time power train warranty that is through this dealer. Also I have extended warranty that I paid a fortune for So they have to do all my service work to keep the lifetime power train warranty. I do all my own work accept for the fluid changes.
Thank you for the great video. My mom has a 2013 and it stalls while in drive but only when the AC is on. Do you think it could still be this problem or do you know if it could be something else?
Buck that sounds like a vacuum leak (tear or disconnected hose) to be honest.. if it’s only when the AC is on. Also the easiest thing to check is her battery and voltage first.
My 2013 Escape just had an issue of stalling and all the idiot lights coming on. It's the first time it happened so this is something I will check. But first will be the battery, even though it's only two years old, I've had a problem with the negative cable getting a lot of corrosion. I'll rule those problems out but I'll also inspect that wire harness.
I have a 2006 Expedition that also has a wiring harness issue, since the designers decided to put the wire harness right next to the heater hoses. I've had issues with the wires literally melting!
James run your escape vin on the recall site first.
Thanks.. Yes I plan to do that as well, as soon as I get a chance
My daughter has a Ford Escape 2013. She bought it used. While she is driving the engine goes off. Car slows and she has to restart. Dangerous. It has happened whilst driving and turning in intersections. Is this considered stalling? Could this be the problem? 3 different mechanics have found nothing.
Correct my friend, that is stalling. It absolutely could be the harness issue I describe in the video, but technically could be many things, fuel issue, ignition issue, vacuum issue. Make sure to get on Ford's website ASAP and run her VIN number to check for open recalls. Hopefully there is one, so that Ford will cover it. Please let me know what happens.
As soon as it warms up enough I know where to start looking.
I just bought the 2013 4WD Ecoboost w/ 2.0 and started having this stalling issue a week after. I haven’t checked on the damage yet, but if it’s bad enough is this something I can direct a shop or the dealer to for a fix if I didn’t want to try myself? Would it be pricey to replace those wires?
Hikko it will be pricey to have the dealer do it, make sure to run the VIN through the Ford website ASAP to check for the recall.
@@MidknightMechanics Thank you for the info and your response! It’s showing I have recalls related to the a door latch and transmission shifter cable bushing. A repair was done on the door latch, but it says there is no remedy for the cable bushing yet. These were issued in June of this year. There’s also a CSP for extended warranty coverage on ABS speed signal which I had issues with today. Do I just bring this information to the dealer or should I go back to the lot that sold me the car and get a warranty they offered and have them fix it and reimburse it later?
I forgot to mention I did go to Nortons Car Stereo and got a system put car im wondering now if this could be a problem too I just got a new battery paid 450 for the battery and labor.
Ugh probably the most I’ve ever heard for a battery swap. It absolutely could be tied to this, if they possibly disturbed the engine harness I talk about in this video- they may have routed the main power wire for your amplifier on this same harness (they would have zip tied it, to it). If you’re not at a Ford dealer for this diagnosis I would highly recommend getting out of where you are, and taking it to one. A single diagnostic will only cost you about $160 MAX, to find this issue. Some shops just do NOT have the experience. Ford will have seen what your exact escape is doing and know exactly how to approach the fix. Have you ran your VIN on the Ford recall website yet!? Sorry for the kind of bad news but I have a lot of experience with diagnostics, and seeing people get ripped off left and right at Independent shops. When it came to the battery- did an independent do it, or was it Ford?
Man I have a 2013 ford escape and everytime I fill up my gas tank it jerks around and stalls I have press the gas hard to get off. Only when I get up but i took the car to Jiffy Lube they ran a test said it was a bad gas cylinder and they having trouble finding the part. Been calling off
And on 3 months now I’m take it somewhere else this weekend and I’m see if they say the thing and cost part and labor $800.
No such thing as a bad gas cylinder, see if you can send me more details to help and verify what they are doing for you.
2015 Ford Escape 1.6L Eco boost stalled at stop sign {end of 2017} and never
started again. Heard a loud humming noise coming from behind front
passenger seat 3 times prior. Once in city while driving and twice on the
highway. Replaced spark plugs; battery and fuel rail. Don't know what to do.
Dealership said low oil pressure. Kicks over but won't start.
Ricky take one of the plugs back out, snap it into the coil pack, let it rest on top of the valve cover, keep your hands clear, have someone crank the engine while you look for spark on that plug. If you have spark, you know it's a fuel issue (maybe pump) or ignition electronics issue. Also run your VIN on Ford's website to check for the recalls.
Hello I have a 2013 escape my car has a weird situation going on the car will drive fine for a few miles then when coming to a complete stop the accelerator will feel like there's no power to the pedal. What could this possibly be?
Jordan unfortunately it could be many many things. Any trouble codes (DTCs)?
My 2013 1.6L SE suddenly went into limp mode. After looking around under the hood and checking the wiring and connections, I found several wires that were frayed and slightly burnt.
I fixed them myself for free...problem solved!
It's terrible that this is even an issue that the Escape is known for.
Hi midnight mechanic's! Great video! However, my harness wasn't rubbing against the vacuum pump. We've ran the Vin number and there's only a recall for transmission solenoid. We've already had it in the shop multiple times after we bought it used. It's a 2013 ecoboost Ford Escape with push button start. It has stalled on interstate and other places and sometimes doesn't start. The problems are intermittent. The battery, negative cable and sensor have been replaced. And the 3rd time we took it to the shop, the said they had to replace the computer/ECM and we had to buy a second transponder remote for them to program it. And it still does the same thing and throws multiple codes. Like engine start fault, BLIS, cross traffic, etc.. the wiring harness near the vacuum pump isn't even touching it. It's well tied and clipped all around. Anything else it could be?
James you didn't buy it new did you? These sound like previous flood/major accident & reconstructed style issues since you already did an ecm, and you're saying your harness definitely isn't rubbing. Otherwise everything you said, are symptoms of a harness/wiring short. Make sure to follow the harness as far as you can. Not just on the corner of the vac pump.
@@MidknightMechanics awesome!! I had a feeling u might say that. About it being a short somewhere, still, with wiring. Thank u so much for the reply. It is a used vehicle and we never got the carfax on it even tho they said this were included with our paperwork. As soon as the dealership finds what's wrong with it, I'll be sure to repost and update everyone. Thanks again, God bless
I have this same issue. Everytime I fill my gas tank up completely, and then stop at a light for too long, it acts like its trying to "turn on" again, even though its on, and then I get a message telling me to turn my car completely off and turn it back on. After I use a little bit of gas, then this issue never happens again, until I fill up again. Is this an easy fix?
Not very easy Rena, the shorts are hidden inside the main harnesses insulation. First of though, google Ford recalls, and type in your Vin number (or just call Ford) to see if your VIN is covered, under the recall for these issues. Let me know how it goes, I really appreciate the feedback.
I have this same problem too. I fill up it will not start until i rev the car.
I have the same problem I can't afford to fix this what do I do.
U hav a purge valve issue
I have a 2017 ford escape. Had the transmission replaced, 4mo later the acceleration is sluggish. Ford couldn't find codes, I requested replacing spark plugs & air filter. Got it back & now it jolts when accelerating (sometimes not always) does this sound like the MAF? I would greatly appreciate input 🙏
Hey Crystal. This could be a lot of different things. If the check engine light is back on, it could be the exact issue in my video- a short in the main harness that caused a national recall on some year escapes because it's fraying against the engine's (metal) valve cover (right next to the cam driven vacuum pump, in my video). But, if your check engine light (CEL) is blinking then going solid, that means misfire- do NOT drive it while misfiring. If this is the case, you could have a bad coil pack, could have the fraying main harness issue, or could have a bad throttle body, and technically yes- you could have a bad MAF sensor but that's very rare. Usually when you're MAF is bad, it won't idle smoothly when in park or neutral, and usually stall. Go get your codes scanned for free by one of the auto parts stores and let me know the codes. Fords are more known for the throttle body to get water/moisture inside of them and make it short- this could easily cause sluggish acceleration or "surging".
@@MidknightMechanics That's the crazy thing! There isn't a light on. Even when I took it in for slower than usual acceleration there was no light & ford couldn't pull any codes. I had them replace the spark plugs & air filter in hopes it'd improve. Before I took it in it wasn't jolting, just sluggish when accelerating. I'm not sure if the new plugs caused the issue to create jolting due to more power from the plugs. I just know something is wrong & ford acts like they couldn't figure it out.....
@@Crystal-km1wr that really stinks. Any chance you ran the VIN through the Ford recall database yet? Usually a 2017 might not even need plugs by now, really depends on mileage. Make sure the simple things have been done, replace your intake air filter, get a full tank of premium- since it's a turbo and direct injection, the higher octane gas helps burn hotter and cleaner, so your valves don't get coated with Carbon (but best thing you could be doing is never going over 6k on oil changes to prevent sludge in the engine). Remember, Ford won't take it up on themselves to find other issues or do a full inspection unless you order/ask for it. Since you still have no codes , I would mean more towards the main harness short that I describe in my video. Sometimes shorts can cause zero CELs, or a laundry list of CELs. Also it's important because that harness has wires that feed all of the coil packs- which obviously fire your spark plugs.
Hey I have this problem, how did you fix it?
Deb - I used electrical tape, and taped each wire that had worn down and started to short against the engine. I didn't have to solder or replace the wires because this one was still in the early stages. Which means, it hadn't broken any copper strands of the wire yet.
@@MidknightMechanics Thanks
What about a 2013 Escape SE with a 1.6L engine? Will that car have the stalling issue?
Francine all my research only shows the 2.0t's having these issues. But, you should still run your VIN # through the online recall system just to make sure Ford doesn't have a recall for your Escape too.
@@MidknightMechanics Thank you so much!
@@MidknightMechanics I have a 2013 SE 1.6L and there is no recall for this model. I just started having this issue and autozone pulled faulty fuel pump or pressure sensor. When it stalls the oil light, battery and engine light comes on. It usually happens a few seconds after I start the car and pull off. It sputters and just loses power. I have an appointment with Ford on Monday but now I'm second guessing.
@@shontapl what did they end up telling you at the dealer I have the same issue ?
Ok what about 1.6l? The harness does not route around that.
Tj send me your VIN would you, I'll run it
I think it’s the fuel pump drive module
My escape must be wired differently because there's no wires rubbing that shiny part.
I couldnt even see what you were holding up in the car. The engine part was perfect You got to tilt a bit more when showing things close to you. What was that odb2 reader you had for the ford?
I know, sorry about that man. It's called OBDLink MX+
@@MidknightMechanics thank you bud
You are the ford escape master. Fuck this car. I've had every problem you've described. I've almost died. Spent hundred s. This car has really stressed me out. And my family. Smh. Thanks so much for your post
So sorry to hear Amy. I would probably get rid of it while it's still worth something.
How that happen how u wires got stripped
When Ford was making the escapes, they routed the wires too tight against the engine. So when the engine moves during normal driving, the engine eventually will scrape and remove the insulation from the wires, due to friction. Which then causes the metal on metal short.
Hope you are still around. Lol. Have a 2013 Ford Edge stalling when RPMs are low. 2.0 ecoboost 70k miles. New battery, New oil pressure sensor, New purge valve. Still stalling but not all the time, won't do it for like 5 days then will do it for next 2 then nothing for a few more days, then boom again. Think this is it?
I hope i'm still around too. It sure as heck could be. This is the type of symptoms my customer told me when he brought it to me. A big, big hint is if you scan the car, it has a million codes for misfires, fuel issues, throttle body, vacuum codes and etc- that means its a short, or electrical related because you know, all these components haven't failed all at once, when you can go 5 days without a stall. Carefully go check the back side of your harness where it might be touching the valve cover or other aluminum. But FIRST- go check your VIN online because the 2013 was an official year of recall- as i mention in the video.
I have 2014 that just started doing this 1.6 lilter
When my battery goes I am switching to a AGM battery.
Your title says that your patient is 2013 not 15 😂😂😂👍🏽 awww +
2013+ means, 2013 and up-
If you can’t find an honest and dependable independent mechanic, look harder. Ask people
you know and trust. They’re out there. DO NOT wait until a problem arises. Typically, a
respectable mechanic is booked out, like a dentist or caterer with reliable reviews.
A dealer’s business runs on HUGE overhead. Guess who covers that liability?
Mechanics, dentistry and cooking all share skill traits. For 35 years, I made a living primarily
from one. Now I enjoy both the others.
I took it to a Ford Dealership and they are telling me that I have to pay thousands of dollars.
Deb what are they saying needs to be done or replaced?
FOUND PROBLEM WITH PUSH START FORD BOUGHT FROM US AUTO SALES USED CAR DEALERSHIP!!!! they put a GPS tracker on the car so they can find your car if they have to repo it. Well the Ford dealership just found where the company, US Auto uses called SureTrac put this GPS tracker in the car and had cut wires that went to the push start. So sometimes the car wouldn't start. Intermittent issues and would cut off while driving on the interstate or wherever. The push start would lose signal connection with transponder/key fib remote start. ANYONE HAVING ISSUES WITH A USED 2013 FORD ESCAPE ECOBOOST OR ANY OTHER REMOTE START FROM USED CAR COMPANY NEEDS TO HAVE SHOP CHECK WHERE THE GPS TRACKER WAS INSTALLED!!!
James you sure about this? Tell us who the used dealer was
@Midknight Mechanics Yes Sir, the name of the dealer was U.S. Auto Sales in Lithia Springs Ga.. I hope this helps someone. I hope it was ok to add this comment. I just want to help give someone an idea where to check if they go around and around with a used dealership about a problem like we have.
All I gotta say is… them new ford vehicles are nothing but garbage, too many electronic bs, might as well be electric vehicles all the way. One sensors throws the vehicle into being worthless 😡