I believe this is the best TH-cam tutorial video that I’ve ever seen. Incredible skills and great camera work! My son and I will be doing this on whichever Escape he ends upon buying, I’m sure of it. And we are confident we will do it successfully thanks to you!
Thank you so much for the tutorial. I've successfully replaced the purge valve of my 2016 Ford Escape. It took me a long time to replace it, but I got the job done.
This video rocked! Repair only took a couple of hours and saved us $450. Our escape had those awful two-way green clips on all connections so it took longer than it would have if we had the snap-on connections. I was intimidated at first (my 2006 equinox didn't have so much tubing and electrical connections! Just a lot of rust...) but this guy is a life saver. Subscribed.
I bought a replacement purge valve a couple of years ago because my car wouldn't start after filling it up with gas, but I'm a novice so I was too nervous to actually attempt the repair myself until I saw your video. Thank you for guiding us through each step. The close-ups of the connections and how to release them were especially helpful. I was able to do the majority of it myself, but I did need help getting the lock off of the connector off the back of the purge valve line.
I have a 15 1.6 It was actually easier than I thought it would be. Feeding the new one back through the way it's supposed to be on the engine did take a couple tried. I will say that mine came in a long box. It actually looked like the wrong part at first...takes some gentle bending to get it to fit right. Took me around an hour but I'm one of those people that obsess over every single bolt and screw. Check engine light went out in two days. Filling up the car at gas station for the first time, the engine didn't stall and the light went out 👍
This is EXACTLY what’s going on with mine! All the way down to the sound. I usually have to literally get out of my car and open my gas tank door and push the little thing open so the air comes out! I replaced the small fuel canister underneath of the car thought that would solve it. Come to find out it was actually this part I need! Autozone gave me the wrong part for the problem apparently! Now my oil smells like straight gasoline now too. Thank you so much for this video. I’ve been trying to figure this out for 2 years now. Smh.
Thank you for the professional video, the way they should be made! Clear, articulate, thorough and a well positioned camera that captures all of the essentials. I am a backyard mechanic of 40+ years and meticulous by nature, so I can truly appreciate the work you have put into the making of this presentation. You have gained a new subscriber and it's my pleasure. Keep making these appreciable vids good sir. Thanks again.
I echo everyone's comments. This video was Very well done. Saved me a lot of money. I had the 2.0 and you are right it was easier. I didn't have to get under the car at all. Much appreciated!!
What mileage did it have on it? Mine is pulling a P1450 code at just 55,000mls and been garaged all its life. I cleaned up the capless tank but the code still comes on so think this is my next avenue.
@@cardiffgiant9406 2014 Escape Platinum Turbo Turned 55,000 not too long ago. I was really low on gas one day filled up car wouldn't start. Finally after lots of taps and holding down gas pedal. It started loudly. A couple weeks later pull of the freeway stopped at bottom of ramp and the engine starts racing and wanting to surge forward.. Took to dealer first they start telling me no codes may not figure out. Told them you want met to take this car out of here and end up dead? $1000 grand replacing 2 parts. My husband had taken a warranty out when he bought the car so its only $100. Think they have a problem with the part.
@@debfredrickson85 thankfully mine isn't that bad but after my first message we experienced the hard starting after refueling so I'm changing this valve
This is the best car repair video I have ever seen. Part is in the mail, going to tackle this next week, know exactly what I'm getting into. Appreciating the effort that went into this very much!
Great video, saved lots of time! Escape was taking 3x to start after getting gas and would get code P1450 sometimes. Replaced the purge valve assembly and fixed! What a pain to do, but the video was helpful. Would be careful with the Green Locking Clips, broke both sides on the lower one and it left the center which still locks it. Had to remove with fingernail to raise it and a long hemostat to grab and pull out.
My 2014 fusion with the 2.0L Eco started doing this. Wouldn't start after refueling, and a few times, made that horrible sucking sound and stalled. I've also got the 1450 and 0456 codes. Replacing it looks daunting, but at least I know exactly what's causing it. Awesome video.
I also have a 14 Fusion with the 2.0 Ecoboost. At 45k miles the vehicle began to stall regularly. The dealer replaced this part and I’ve never had the issue since. I am at 138k miles now.
You def deserve a lot more views on this video.its the only detailed video out there and actually shows you the part you need for the ecoboost cars auto zone dont even have it .
The part difference is huge between the N/A engine models, just a couple bolts and no spaghetti, normal looking part. I was at the part store cursing my luck. Lol
Great video and I don't even own anything with a 1.6L ecoboost but it does really make me edge closer to Toyota every day no matter how blah they are. Love your videos, Brian. Thank you for sharing.
I did this exact repair on my 2015 Escape a couple years back. The symptoms were exactly as you mentioned; problems starting after fueling. The part was only $120 from the dealer at the time. Now it has a problem drinking coolant and power stutters a bit when trying to get up to speed. I'm fairly certain that it is a crack in the cooling jacket of one of the center cylinders, but I haven't done anything to confirm. I don't intend to spend a ton of money to get it fixed, because it has a bunch of body damage. But I still drive it weekly. I just make sure I have a full coolant reservoir and some spare in the back before I take off anywhere. I tried for months looking for a junk yard engine block, but I could find any in my area. Absolutely no wrecked Escapes in the 13-17 range. Getting a crate replacement is not in my price range, at least not for a car that looks beat to sh!t.
I think back to the good old days, when working on my grandpa's '54 Chrysler I could sit on the front fender, place my feet down between the engine & body, and work on the carburetor.
I missed the part about removing the undercarriage cover for the lower one lol. I made due by reaching down from above, worked fine. Got to the green clip with the needle nose pliers and then used my fingers to push the built-in clip in and got it off pretty easily. Thanks for the video!
This is good to know! I was hoping I would be able to remove this from the top as I do not have anyway to jack up the vehicle. I also have skinny arms and hands. Were you able to put the new hose on from the top side?
@@kimberlysaviano3918 Yes I did everything from the top side and if I remember correctly it was easier installing the new part than taking the old off.
Thank You. My wife's 2014 Escape just rolled 100000 miles. The engine light came on at 1/4 tank, When the wife filled it up. The engine started and died several times before I could get it to run. Now I know what to expect if I choose to change it.
Brian, Thanks so much for this video. I have owned 2 Ford Expeditions in the past and your knowledge helped me through many repairs. After a 4 year break I'm back in the Ford world and now own a 2015 Escape. I replaced the purge valve in the engine bay using the Dorman kit that splices just the valve into the assembly. I possibly also have an issue with the vapor canister purge valve located near the tank. I say this because I can hear an off and on humming sound that repeats every 2 seconds or so coming from the area where the valve is mounted. I bought the part, a plastic box about 3"x4", that houses the vent solenoid and mounts to the charcoal cannister assembly. However, I'm not sure if the sound indicates a problem with the valve or 8f it is a normal part of it's function. I'd rather not replace it if it's not a problem. Before I address that possible issue I need to remove the brake rotor shield on the right rear wheel as it's broken loose and is rattling like crazy. I'd appreciate any advice you have on the canister situation. Thanks again
My 2017 Escape 2.0 EB with 45,000 miles on the clock was not displaying any codes nor was it hard to start after fuelling up. The unidentified round part by the orifice at the T connection (not the purge valve) in this video was just making a constant loud and irritating ticking noise while the engine was running. I identified it was this part because putting my hand around it muffled the noise and I could keel it tapping. I finally got around to changing the entire ejector assembly out today and the engine runs quietly again. My laymans approach to this was identifying the noise, watching a video to even find out what the noisy part was called, then ordering and changing that part out fingers crossed. I did however remove the windshield wiper cowling to give myself more room on the 2.0 while doing the job. Don’t laugh but I also cut some of the old assembly lines off first about 1 inch from their fittings, I found the old fittings were much easier to manoeuvre, wiggle off and remove that way. Not a professional method to do a repair by any means but it apparently solved the problem.
Excellent video, thanks for take the time to made this kind of videos, I had before a 2014 Ford Escape, now have a 2018 Escape, hopefully 🙏 no issues happen. Nice work, keep up 👍🏻
Thanks for this video!! The new "replacements" actually come where you can potentially just swap out the canister without having to change out the rest of the lines. I'm going to give that a shot as the bottom line (cooler line) is a PITA for me to get to. :)
Did my 2013 a few years ago in my 2.0. I removed the wipers and upper cowl panels. Made getting behind the engine a lot easier for that one connector. Did I mention those connectors are worse than water torture.
I dreaded trying to get it out too, once I was at that point, no room for any common tool. Luckily I tried it with bare hands, no tool, and it was surprisingly easy. Almost break the green clip off and the press in the built-in clip and boom, it was off. Saved a bunch of time.
I’ve repaired most Escape Evap codes with a purge valve on both NA and Turbo models like you said but I have a 2018 Ford 1.5L Escape that keeps setting a P144C even after replacement of the purge valve. Standard brand first and then opted for the FoMoCo just to make sure. Have to dive into it some more because that was an unexpected comeback.
1.6 Ecoboost. What a nightmare engine and set up.. Luckily I have a really good local Ford dealer parts counter guy that keeps me informed about all the parts updates since I don't always have access to the TSBs. BTW, they keep the long blocks in stock.. Thx for the tutorial!
Amazing job explaining how to get it out.... but as someone who has the mechanical competence of a 3rd grader... it would have been nice to see you put the new one in
Thank you so much for covering this issue. Thankfully, my fiesta was under warranty when mine was serviced for this exact problem. It’ll probably happen again and I’ll be able to do my own labor😁
Got my 14 Escape two years ago at 34k miles… it’s only at 57k miles now and had the P1450 code pop up! Mechanics said they fixed It BUT my engine light popped back up and when I filled up my tank with gas It was taking forever for the engine to start AGAIN. I better get my $$ back!!
Now if they could come up with a better solution! I’ve changed way too many of these! Great explanation though. 👍🏼 like I said on Facebook, you’ll always do well.
my wife and I had a 1.6l ecoboost escape and had this issue along with every other issue these things have. after fixing and fixing we finally traded it in before it had more issues and went back to Toyota. never will we own another Ford after that terrible experience. Def made me a better mechanic though 😂
@@jdigitalseven7 i had a 2013. It was fun to drive when it was working but It was a lemon. Without this channel i wouldve never figured out half the issues. Why would anyone make that up? Smh
I believe I've read in FB Mustang groups that some individuals have had this same issue after filling up. And I know our Mustangs have the same purge valves, in fact I've changed mine and I don't think I even have 20K miles on my 2017 lol.
@@ravenbishop5232 depends where you live! I have a 99 Ford Explorer it’s been in Florida it’s whole life! Not one bit of rust on it! All vehicles rust in certain areas regardless of make!
fords always have evap problems, suspension problems, throttle body issues, etc. but there is something about them which i like better than any japanese car... the engines are tuned just right, the seats and sound system are perfect, the transmission is designed and programmed properly. and plus about another hundred small variables which total into an excellent vehicle. its a shame they stopped making sedans and coupes. ford engineers are top of their game, there are so many things they just do right, more than any other standard auto manufacturer. of course luxury is a whole different class, but personally as a vehicle owner who does his own maintenance and repair, i would never own one of those
Would be nice if those engineers figured this out so these vehicles don't run codes and CELs so much. I do also like the cars, had a Fusion and now I have an Escape and both cars needed this part at 75k. My Fusion used to fart sometimes when driving and my Escape has difficulty starting at the pump. Going to get this put on and get a tune up for my Escape tomorrow morning.
Awesome video, thanks for sharing..... mine is starting to do this however there is no check engine light or any codes...... I'm wondering if I should just change it...... it's doing this exact same thing..... thank you
Hi Brian, I'm a big fan of your work since you shot videos at the dealership. Lately I've been watching Prof J. Kelly at Weber University videos on EV technology deep dives and complete teardowns (batteries and drivetrain). I've been wondering about your thoughts on EV technology vs ICE, especially after seeing a review of the new Ford Mustang Mach-E EV. Is this something you'll be working on in the near future? Your son??? Thanks! Love your work, keep it up man.
These escapes are tough to work on! Pay the mechanics! I did a trans on a 13’ 1.6 and that was some of the tightest work space I’ve seen. Getting ready to do plugs, water pump, and timing belt on it and am dreading it.
I believe this is the best TH-cam tutorial video that I’ve ever seen. Incredible skills and great camera work! My son and I will be doing this on whichever Escape he ends upon buying, I’m sure of it. And we are confident we will do it successfully thanks to you!
You do work on other's vehicles? And are you in WA?
Thank you so much for the tutorial. I've successfully replaced the purge valve of my 2016 Ford Escape. It took me a long time to replace it, but I got the job done.
This video rocked! Repair only took a couple of hours and saved us $450. Our escape had those awful two-way green clips on all connections so it took longer than it would have if we had the snap-on connections. I was intimidated at first (my 2006 equinox didn't have so much tubing and electrical connections! Just a lot of rust...) but this guy is a life saver. Subscribed.
I bought a replacement purge valve a couple of years ago because my car wouldn't start after filling it up with gas, but I'm a novice so I was too nervous to actually attempt the repair myself until I saw your video. Thank you for guiding us through each step. The close-ups of the connections and how to release them were especially helpful. I was able to do the majority of it myself, but I did need help getting the lock off of the connector off the back of the purge valve line.
I have a 15 1.6
It was actually easier than I thought it would be. Feeding the new one back through the way it's supposed to be on the engine did take a couple tried. I will say that mine came in a long box. It actually looked like the wrong part at first...takes some gentle bending to get it to fit right. Took me around an hour but I'm one of those people that obsess over every single bolt and screw. Check engine light went out in two days. Filling up the car at gas station for the first time, the engine didn't stall and the light went out 👍
This is EXACTLY what’s going on with mine! All the way down to the sound. I usually have to literally get out of my car and open my gas tank door and push the little thing open so the air comes out! I replaced the small fuel canister underneath of the car thought that would solve it. Come to find out it was actually this part I need! Autozone gave me the wrong part for the problem apparently! Now my oil smells like straight gasoline now too. Thank you so much for this video. I’ve been trying to figure this out for 2 years now. Smh.
This is easily the best most laid out video I’ve ever watched. Thank you
Thank you for the professional video, the way they should be made! Clear, articulate, thorough and a well positioned camera that captures all of the essentials. I am a backyard mechanic of 40+ years and meticulous by nature, so I can truly appreciate the work you have put into the making of this presentation. You have gained a new subscriber and it's my pleasure. Keep making these appreciable vids good sir. Thanks again.
I echo everyone's comments. This video was Very well done. Saved me a lot of money. I had the 2.0 and you are right it was easier. I didn't have to get under the car at all. Much appreciated!!
The best, most clear and complete auto repair video I have ever seen. Great job.
We had this issue on our 2015! Replacement it on our 2.0 about 6 months ago at dealer for about $350 no issues since very happy
What mileage did it have on it? Mine is pulling a P1450 code at just 55,000mls and been garaged all its life. I cleaned up the capless tank but the code still comes on so think this is my next avenue.
@@cardiffgiant9406 2014 Escape Platinum Turbo Turned 55,000 not too long ago. I was really low on gas one day filled up car wouldn't start. Finally after lots of taps and holding down gas pedal. It started loudly.
A couple weeks later pull of the freeway stopped at bottom of ramp and the engine starts racing and wanting to surge forward.. Took to dealer first they start telling me no codes may not figure out. Told them you want met to take this car out of here and end up dead? $1000 grand replacing 2 parts. My husband had taken a warranty out when he bought the car so its only $100. Think they have a problem with the part.
@@debfredrickson85 thankfully mine isn't that bad but after my first message we experienced the hard starting after refueling so I'm changing this valve
This is the best video I have watched for this change out. I'm gearing up to replace this piece over the weekend and this helped with my confidence.
This is the best car repair video I have ever seen. Part is in the mail, going to tackle this next week, know exactly what I'm getting into. Appreciating the effort that went into this very much!
What a comprehensive video. Well done. Loved the tests and all the "watch out for" comments during disassembly. Thank you.
Great video, saved lots of time! Escape was taking 3x to start after getting gas and would get code P1450 sometimes. Replaced the purge valve assembly and fixed! What a pain to do, but the video was helpful. Would be careful with the Green Locking Clips, broke both sides on the lower one and it left the center which still locks it. Had to remove with fingernail to raise it and a long hemostat to grab and pull out.
My 2014 fusion with the 2.0L Eco started doing this. Wouldn't start after refueling, and a few times, made that horrible sucking sound and stalled. I've also got the 1450 and 0456 codes. Replacing it looks daunting, but at least I know exactly what's causing it. Awesome video.
I also have a 14 Fusion with the 2.0 Ecoboost. At 45k miles the vehicle began to stall regularly. The dealer replaced this part and I’ve never had the issue since. I am at 138k miles now.
You def deserve a lot more views on this video.its the only detailed video out there and actually shows you the part you need for the ecoboost cars auto zone dont even have it .
Man I appreciate this!!! 2.0 gas tank has been "farting on me" as I call it. Cars been a big headache for 2 years now. 🤦
Can not find anything for this motor type and boom!! This channel perfectly shows up and saves the day. Thank you sir!
"This valve"..........proceeds to hold up a handful of spaghetti and meatballs.
Close and open constantly... but that valve just lasts like 1.5 year
The part difference is huge between the N/A engine models, just a couple bolts and no spaghetti, normal looking part. I was at the part store cursing my luck. Lol
@@eduardchavezmine lasted for 10 years
@@bennettmonumentco.4791
I'm doing one of these tomorrow, I really appreciate your channel, as a new tech this is literally gold.
Great video and I don't even own anything with a 1.6L ecoboost but it does really make me edge closer to Toyota every day no matter how blah they are. Love your videos, Brian. Thank you for sharing.
GR corolla... definitely fiesta/focus st replacement.
I did this exact repair on my 2015 Escape a couple years back. The symptoms were exactly as you mentioned; problems starting after fueling. The part was only $120 from the dealer at the time. Now it has a problem drinking coolant and power stutters a bit when trying to get up to speed. I'm fairly certain that it is a crack in the cooling jacket of one of the center cylinders, but I haven't done anything to confirm. I don't intend to spend a ton of money to get it fixed, because it has a bunch of body damage. But I still drive it weekly. I just make sure I have a full coolant reservoir and some spare in the back before I take off anywhere.
I tried for months looking for a junk yard engine block, but I could find any in my area. Absolutely no wrecked Escapes in the 13-17 range. Getting a crate replacement is not in my price range, at least not for a car that looks beat to sh!t.
MI’m get be coolant intrusion. Saw chat on that a lot on the escape. Research it. Not a good situation
I think back to the good old days, when working on my grandpa's '54 Chrysler I could sit on the front fender, place my feet down between the engine & body, and work on the carburetor.
That's rad
Thankyou soo much!!! This is literally the only video on TH-cam that helped me with this problem!! Please make more valuable videos like this!!
Thank you so much man. God bless you. I've been trying to open this and didn't know where to find the info. U help me so much. Thank you again.
I missed the part about removing the undercarriage cover for the lower one lol. I made due by reaching down from above, worked fine. Got to the green clip with the needle nose pliers and then used my fingers to push the built-in clip in and got it off pretty easily. Thanks for the video!
This is good to know! I was hoping I would be able to remove this from the top as I do not have anyway to jack up the vehicle. I also have skinny arms and hands. Were you able to put the new hose on from the top side?
@@kimberlysaviano3918 Yes I did everything from the top side and if I remember correctly it was easier installing the new part than taking the old off.
Thank You. My wife's 2014 Escape just rolled 100000 miles. The engine light came on at 1/4 tank, When the wife filled it up. The engine started and died several times before I could get it to run. Now I know what to expect if I choose to change it.
Brian,
Thanks so much for this video. I have owned 2 Ford Expeditions in the past and your knowledge helped me through many repairs.
After a 4 year break I'm back in the Ford world and now own a 2015 Escape. I replaced the purge valve in the engine bay using the Dorman kit that splices just the valve into the assembly.
I possibly also have an issue with the vapor canister purge valve located near the tank. I say this because I can hear an off and on humming sound that repeats every 2 seconds or so coming from the area where the valve is mounted. I bought the part, a plastic box about 3"x4", that houses the vent solenoid and mounts to the charcoal cannister assembly. However, I'm not sure if the sound indicates a problem with the valve or 8f it is a normal part of it's function. I'd rather not replace it if it's not a problem.
Before I address that possible issue I need to remove the brake rotor shield on the right rear wheel as it's broken loose and is rattling like crazy.
I'd appreciate any advice you have on the canister situation.
Thanks again
Thanks a lot for this. I am lucky enough to be able to pay a shop. More work than I want to get in to.
My 2017 Escape 2.0 EB with 45,000 miles on the clock was not displaying any codes nor was it hard to start after fuelling up. The unidentified round part by the orifice at the T connection (not the purge valve) in this video was just making a constant loud and irritating ticking noise while the engine was running. I identified it was this part because putting my hand around it muffled the noise and I could keel it tapping. I finally got around to changing the entire ejector assembly out today and the engine runs quietly again. My laymans approach to this was identifying the noise, watching a video to even find out what the noisy part was called, then ordering and changing that part out fingers crossed. I did however remove the windshield wiper cowling to give myself more room on the 2.0 while doing the job. Don’t laugh but I also cut some of the old assembly lines off first about 1 inch from their fittings, I found the old fittings were much easier to manoeuvre, wiggle off and remove that way. Not a professional method to do a repair by any means but it apparently solved the problem.
Excellent video, thanks for take the time to made this kind of videos, I had before a 2014 Ford Escape, now have a 2018 Escape, hopefully 🙏 no issues happen. Nice work, keep up 👍🏻
Thanks for this video!! The new "replacements" actually come where you can potentially just swap out the canister without having to change out the rest of the lines. I'm going to give that a shot as the bottom line (cooler line) is a PITA for me to get to. :)
Did that work for you?
Don't even own a Ford but love watching all your vids.
Did my 2013 a few years ago in my 2.0. I removed the wipers and upper cowl panels. Made getting behind the engine a lot easier for that one connector. Did I mention those connectors are worse than water torture.
I dreaded trying to get it out too, once I was at that point, no room for any common tool. Luckily I tried it with bare hands, no tool, and it was surprisingly easy. Almost break the green clip off and the press in the built-in clip and boom, it was off. Saved a bunch of time.
I’ve repaired most Escape Evap codes with a purge valve on both NA and Turbo models like you said but I have a 2018 Ford 1.5L Escape that keeps setting a P144C even after replacement of the purge valve. Standard brand first and then opted for the FoMoCo just to make sure. Have to dive into it some more because that was an unexpected comeback.
Quality of your content is superb, Most of these in Europe are Diesel Variants the 'Quality' is just the same as the US market vehicles 🤷.
1.6 Ecoboost. What a nightmare engine and set up.. Luckily I have a really good local Ford dealer parts counter guy that keeps me informed about all the parts updates since I don't always have access to the TSBs. BTW, they keep the long blocks in stock.. Thx for the tutorial!
Your videos are invaluable! Keep up the great work!
Chris Johnson
Certified Master
Auto Technician
You have excellent skill with the camera too.
This video helped me to find the evap canister. And save me a lot of money.
i was a USAF AGE mechanic , i saw u were a marine, ooohraaa , very cool !
Thank you for making an awesome video. I wish more mechanics were like you!
Yess, I'm editing the 1450 and the 0456 codes. Ford Focus. So ridiculous. Great informative vid. Thank you so.
Amazing job explaining how to get it out.... but as someone who has the mechanical competence of a 3rd grader... it would have been nice to see you put the new one in
Thank you so much for covering this issue. Thankfully, my fiesta was under warranty when mine was serviced for this exact problem. It’ll probably happen again and I’ll be able to do my own labor😁
Got my 14 Escape two years ago at 34k miles… it’s only at 57k miles now and had the P1450 code pop up! Mechanics said they fixed It BUT my engine light popped back up and when I filled up my tank with gas It was taking forever for the engine to start AGAIN. I better get my $$ back!!
Same thing happened to me. Did you figure out what was wrong?
@@jw8837 Yup! The EVAP solenoid. There ended up being a hole in the tube that connects from the engine to the gas tank. It had to be replaced.
@@camryndaggs5442 Thanks for the info, I'm glad you figured it out!
@@jw8837 No problem! It’s also known as the purge solenoid. But ever since I replaced It a few years ago, it’s been working fine!
great vidéo I got the 2.0 l and i had to unscrew the oil brake réservoir to have à better acces ....did it all in an hour
Dude I effing love this TH-cam channel. This should be on cable. I am convinced!
Very interesting video,and keep up the very knowledgeable content of the issues you have the other side of the pond on the Ford product 👏👍
I have been going crazy with this issue. Thank U thank you so much.
Did you get a wierd noise from it? Mines broke off and a wierd noise is coming from it
i really enjoy your videos. They're so helpful.
Now if they could come up with a better solution!
I’ve changed way too many of these! Great explanation though. 👍🏼 like I said on Facebook, you’ll always do well.
I like the test after repair. The replacement looks like a problem, but if you take your time, it should go well.
Great video. Really helpful in determining what would be involved.
Awesome video as always Brian!! 👍👍
my wife and I had a 1.6l ecoboost escape and had this issue along with every other issue these things have. after fixing and fixing we finally traded it in before it had more issues and went back to Toyota. never will we own another Ford after that terrible experience. Def made me a better mechanic though 😂
I bet this story is real too!! Its fun to make up stories on the internet!!!!!!
@@jdigitalseven7 i had a 2013. It was fun to drive when it was working but It was a lemon. Without this channel i wouldve never figured out half the issues. Why would anyone make that up? Smh
excellent description. of the 1.6 evap system.
I believe I've read in FB Mustang groups that some individuals have had this same issue after filling up. And I know our Mustangs have the same purge valves, in fact I've changed mine and I don't think I even have 20K miles on my 2017 lol.
just did it 40 min 2.0 thanks brother!!!
Dude - you're information is AMAZING! Thank you!
Im not sure my husband will try to fix this himself. This is a great video. What should we expect to pay to get it fixed?
Very informative and complete video. Perfect
Great an very complete analysis, thank you my friend
Yup I've had my share of changing these🙄great video👍
This is a awesome video. You are the man!
I had this replaced last October and now I'm getting the same code again. So 8 months later we are again getting the P144C code
BTW excellent video, it helped tremendously!!!
I reallly like this chanel
Thank you, wish you did more on the clip under the intake manifold in the front left that was by far the hardest one for me.
When I see all that rust, I'm glad to live away from the coast and where we don't salt the roads during snowfall.
We don’t have rust In Florida James
@@chadharmon5716 We certainly do in California on the coast. Maybe, the Atlantic is less salty?
I notice ford does not worry about underside rust. It's been going on for years.
@@ravenbishop5232 depends where you live! I have a 99 Ford Explorer it’s been in Florida it’s whole life! Not one bit of rust on it! All vehicles rust in certain areas regardless of make!
thanks for sharing. you look like a cool dude. that weird pipe looks like The Thing.
Thank you so much, your video is so in depth and so very helpful, full of good tips....so appreciate it!
As always, another excellent video! Thank you sir.
Great video and thanks for teaching👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
fords always have evap problems, suspension problems, throttle body issues, etc. but there is something about them which i like better than any japanese car... the engines are tuned just right, the seats and sound system are perfect, the transmission is designed and programmed properly. and plus about another hundred small variables which total into an excellent vehicle. its a shame they stopped making sedans and coupes. ford engineers are top of their game, there are so many things they just do right, more than any other standard auto manufacturer. of course luxury is a whole different class, but personally as a vehicle owner who does his own maintenance and repair, i would never own one of those
Would be nice if those engineers figured this out so these vehicles don't run codes and CELs so much. I do also like the cars, had a Fusion and now I have an Escape and both cars needed this part at 75k. My Fusion used to fart sometimes when driving and my Escape has difficulty starting at the pump. Going to get this put on and get a tune up for my Escape tomorrow morning.
Excellent detail! Thanks so much
Awesome Presentation !
Thank you for descriptive video
Awesome video, thanks for sharing..... mine is starting to do this however there is no check engine light or any codes...... I'm wondering if I should just change it...... it's doing this exact same thing..... thank you
Thanks, my ‘19 Fiesta ST stumbles off idle sometimes after fueling up. If a code pops up, I know what to do.
I wanna give you 3 or 4 likes, jajajaa from Dominican Republic, I wathced others videos that remove the winshiel washer
bout to hafta do this on a 14 Fusion with the 1.5 Ecoboost
My broke on 4 hour round trip! Luckily it was under warranty
Thanks!
I thought those lines looked familiar. They are the lines that you put catch cans on. I wonder if adding one helps prolong the valves
I wish ford had made the purge valve solenoid standalone than crimping it to a whole tube assembly. Been changing those out of the Edges lately.
perfect explanation.
Thank you.
My 2016 FiST starts funny when I fill up I'm gonna look into this next time I'm doing maintenance
Thanks I was going to do it wrong just replace just purge valve only
This was very well ✅ 💯
very thorough! wow +1 subscriber
Hi Brian,
I'm a big fan of your work since you shot videos at the dealership.
Lately I've been watching Prof J. Kelly at Weber University videos on EV technology deep dives and complete teardowns (batteries and drivetrain).
I've been wondering about your thoughts on EV technology vs ICE, especially after seeing a review of the new Ford Mustang Mach-E EV.
Is this something you'll be working on in the near future? Your son???
Thanks! Love your work, keep it up man.
Number one problem for this is over filling the fuel tank
A great video.
Great video Brian like always BTW what kind of ligth are those if u have a part number they look pretty convenient
These escapes are tough to work on! Pay the mechanics! I did a trans on a 13’ 1.6 and that was some of the tightest work space I’ve seen. Getting ready to do plugs, water pump, and timing belt on it and am dreading it.
Dump it, piece of crap car
Good stuff!
Would this be the same for 2015 Edge 2L I4? Your videos are so helpful??
Thanks Thanks Thanks !!!