Worth noting: I now simply do everything in STEP files and no longer do the face as a 3MF unless it's an oddball scenario (STEP can't convert properly, happened exactly once so far). I have also started making things as components and grouping them usually by color (on faces) and by feature (on bases). It's simpler and you can still break it down if you really need to. Check out "A Year of Light Boxes" for more details!
I’m so looking forward to trying your profiles on my A1, I have been struggling for way too long, I hope they work for me. Thank you sooooo much for putting these out here for people to use. EDIT: I had to change a couple of settings such as initial flow rate to 1.05 from 1.04 and increase the initial line width to .5mm, my A1 didn’t like the .32mm line width at all. Other than those settings, everything else seems to be fine. Thanks again for releasing these profiles!
I'm glad they can help! The initial layer flow ratio can change depending on your filament. Sometimes I'll drop it down to 1.03 when I'm using Polymaker PLAs, for example. As for the initial layer line width - I push it down as small as a 0.4 nozzle is capable of (80%, or 0.32mm) to get the finest detail possible. Depending on the complexity of your design, shrinking it is sometimes necessary to fill in little pinholes and gaps where a larger 0.42mm or 0.5mm line just won't fit, even with Arachne. It is slower (which is one of the key reasons there's a separate Base profile), but it's always worked well for me to see sharper lines on the front of a box. If you find the 0.5mm line is just too thick to fill in some features, maybe turn it down to something like 0.42 or 0.38 and check the preview to see if it fills in gaps better.
@pepper_guy absolutely, and there are multiple views that will show different data as well. Line type is probably the most informative in most scenarios.
@@pepper_guy you could try that of course, but I don't think it will make any difference. The best thing for plate adhesion is a clean plate (scrub it in the sink with hot water, plain ol' blue Dawn, and a clean sponge). A clean tPEI plate shouldn't have to go over 55° to get a good stick. MAYBE 60° since you don't have an enclosure on the A1, which brings up another possible thing - drafts. If you've got an AC vent or fan that blows on the printer, that draft can cause the plastic to cool too rapidly and warp, pulling it up from the bed.
Enjoying a lot your videos and the way you explain complex subjects in easy understandable words. Would be great to see a video on how you prepare/arrange your filaments for printing: from basic calibration (PA + Flow Rate + Speed) and then how to customize those profiles within Bambu/Orca. Finally, how to use them accordingly. Thanks.
@@PixelArtSound I'll add that to the queue! Until then: 1) clone the appropriate generic profile with detailed name 2) add data from manufacturer (temp, density, price, anything else) 3) flow ratio calibration, save to cloned profile 4) pressure advance calibration, save result 5) if I'm trying to push it fast, MVS tower calibration from Orca (usually only once per manufacturer material type) That's it!
@@RevHazlett Thanks a lot. Will go for a MVS now that i fully understood it from your "One year of Lightboxes Series". With regards to filament in Bambu/Orca. Its a bit confusing creating the Profiles as some people jsut grab a Filament type (lets say Generic or any of the Bambu ones) as a starting point and then saving it under a different name with its corresponding modifications. But other people go into filaments and create a Custom Filament and work from there... Probably its plain easy, but getting to understand the structure is prooving to be a bit confusin. Seeing you videos, you manage dozens of profiles and wondered what was your train of though and workflow. Thanks again for your videos and channel. After seeing dozens of videos i can honestly say your´s offer one of the best content of the whole web! Keep it flowing please!
You're welcome! I've printed only a few boxes in PETG. The number one flaw in light boxes are whispies - little strings of dark material drug over light material - and PETG is notorious for this. That said, I used exactly this profile just with PETG that had material profiles with appropriate MVS values (eg: the material profile forced it to print slower) and it's worked fine. This is a good example - I just never published the video because it's pretty low quality 🤣 ludicrosity.net/3dp/showoff/rh-chain.mp4
I cloned the generic PLA profile and plugged in a few numbers from eSun's recommendations for my X1C ( www.esun3d.com/zldownload_catalog/data-download/ ) notably the density being 1.25 and retracting on layer change with a speed of 40. Beyond that it was results of calibration prints, and every color has a different profile because every color prints differently 😊 - MVS: I had success up to 22mm³/s, but found it was reliably clean at 18mm³/s across the board, so I stopped there. - Flow ratio: some colors went as high at 0.994, some as low as 0.98. The majority clocking in right at 0.986. - PA: some colors wanted to go as high as 0.024, some went as low as 0.016. Generally the more dark/opaque, the higher it went. On average 0.021 was pretty common.
I've been messing with a lot of the same settings you are using in your profiles, but I really need to tune my filament profiles much better than I already have. I believe its the cause of the layer "wrinkling" I am getting. Are you using the built in calibration tools, your own methods, or what? Could you do a video on your recommendations or processes for tuning filaments properly?
Basically my process is this: - if I've never used a particular material before I create a copy of the default material (PLA, PETG, etc) profile and add to it any data the manufacturer provides (like density, etc) - run the MVS calibration in Orca, round down a full 1mm^3/s from the result - flow ratio and pressure advance calibrations That's it. If it's a new spool of a know material I just re-run flow ratio and pressure advance calibrations and update if necessary. With quality manufacturers (eg; not bargain-cheap) there is usually little, if any, difference. Rarely I'll have trouble with a new/specialty material that may need retraction tuning or something to that effect, but that's quite uncommon. The end result is a new-to-me material had about an hour of calibrations and a new spool of a known material takes about a half an hour to validate as using good settings.
@RevHazlett… Because I too had to stumble through this process as a new-comer to the world of 3D printing, and after many failed prints in the learning process, have you thought about creating a video that shows your step-by-step process for calibrating a filament profile? I know I’ve learned a lot from your videos and am thankful for the continued information you bring to this community.
Thank you for time and experience. I hate to sound stupid but if we download this profile this will automatically calibrate the filament? I'm new to 3d printing and am ready to learn
No - what's here is only the process profiles. Filament profiles are totally separate and not included since they can be very different depending on brand and even batch.
Worth noting: I now simply do everything in STEP files and no longer do the face as a 3MF unless it's an oddball scenario (STEP can't convert properly, happened exactly once so far). I have also started making things as components and grouping them usually by color (on faces) and by feature (on bases). It's simpler and you can still break it down if you really need to. Check out "A Year of Light Boxes" for more details!
I’m so looking forward to trying your profiles on my A1, I have been struggling for way too long, I hope they work for me.
Thank you sooooo much for putting these out here for people to use.
EDIT: I had to change a couple of settings such as initial flow rate to 1.05 from 1.04 and increase the initial line width to .5mm, my A1 didn’t like the .32mm line width at all. Other than those settings, everything else seems to be fine. Thanks again for releasing these profiles!
I'm glad they can help!
The initial layer flow ratio can change depending on your filament. Sometimes I'll drop it down to 1.03 when I'm using Polymaker PLAs, for example.
As for the initial layer line width - I push it down as small as a 0.4 nozzle is capable of (80%, or 0.32mm) to get the finest detail possible. Depending on the complexity of your design, shrinking it is sometimes necessary to fill in little pinholes and gaps where a larger 0.42mm or 0.5mm line just won't fit, even with Arachne. It is slower (which is one of the key reasons there's a separate Base profile), but it's always worked well for me to see sharper lines on the front of a box. If you find the 0.5mm line is just too thick to fill in some features, maybe turn it down to something like 0.42 or 0.38 and check the preview to see if it fills in gaps better.
@ I’ve never looked at the sliced model until recently, I didn’t know that this was a true depiction of how the extruder will travel and print!
@pepper_guy absolutely, and there are multiple views that will show different data as well. Line type is probably the most informative in most scenarios.
@@RevHazlettI wonder if using the .32mm line width, I lower the layer height slightly to get the extrusion to stick to the plate?
@@pepper_guy you could try that of course, but I don't think it will make any difference. The best thing for plate adhesion is a clean plate (scrub it in the sink with hot water, plain ol' blue Dawn, and a clean sponge). A clean tPEI plate shouldn't have to go over 55° to get a good stick. MAYBE 60° since you don't have an enclosure on the A1, which brings up another possible thing - drafts. If you've got an AC vent or fan that blows on the printer, that draft can cause the plastic to cool too rapidly and warp, pulling it up from the bed.
Enjoying a lot your videos and the way you explain complex subjects in easy understandable words. Would be great to see a video on how you prepare/arrange your filaments for printing: from basic calibration (PA + Flow Rate + Speed) and then how to customize those profiles within Bambu/Orca. Finally, how to use them accordingly. Thanks.
@@PixelArtSound I'll add that to the queue! Until then:
1) clone the appropriate generic profile with detailed name
2) add data from manufacturer (temp, density, price, anything else)
3) flow ratio calibration, save to cloned profile
4) pressure advance calibration, save result
5) if I'm trying to push it fast, MVS tower calibration from Orca (usually only once per manufacturer material type)
That's it!
@@RevHazlett Thanks a lot. Will go for a MVS now that i fully understood it from your "One year of Lightboxes Series". With regards to filament in Bambu/Orca. Its a bit confusing creating the Profiles as some people jsut grab a Filament type (lets say Generic or any of the Bambu ones) as a starting point and then saving it under a different name with its corresponding modifications. But other people go into filaments and create a Custom Filament and work from there... Probably its plain easy, but getting to understand the structure is prooving to be a bit confusin. Seeing you videos, you manage dozens of profiles and wondered what was your train of though and workflow. Thanks again for your videos and channel. After seeing dozens of videos i can honestly say your´s offer one of the best content of the whole web! Keep it flowing please!
Thank you for the profiles and information…and thank you for sharing your experiences and knowledge. You rock! 😊
I hope it's helpful for you!
Thank you for the profiles, looks like you and a community put a lot of work to find the best parameters.
Shell we expect PETG profiles as well :) ?
You're welcome! I've printed only a few boxes in PETG. The number one flaw in light boxes are whispies - little strings of dark material drug over light material - and PETG is notorious for this. That said, I used exactly this profile just with PETG that had material profiles with appropriate MVS values (eg: the material profile forced it to print slower) and it's worked fine.
This is a good example - I just never published the video because it's pretty low quality 🤣
ludicrosity.net/3dp/showoff/rh-chain.mp4
What is your esun pla+ settings
I cloned the generic PLA profile and plugged in a few numbers from eSun's recommendations for my X1C ( www.esun3d.com/zldownload_catalog/data-download/ ) notably the density being 1.25 and retracting on layer change with a speed of 40.
Beyond that it was results of calibration prints, and every color has a different profile because every color prints differently 😊
- MVS: I had success up to 22mm³/s, but found it was reliably clean at 18mm³/s across the board, so I stopped there.
- Flow ratio: some colors went as high at 0.994, some as low as 0.98. The majority clocking in right at 0.986.
- PA: some colors wanted to go as high as 0.024, some went as low as 0.016. Generally the more dark/opaque, the higher it went. On average 0.021 was pretty common.
I've been messing with a lot of the same settings you are using in your profiles, but I really need to tune my filament profiles much better than I already have. I believe its the cause of the layer "wrinkling" I am getting. Are you using the built in calibration tools, your own methods, or what? Could you do a video on your recommendations or processes for tuning filaments properly?
Basically my process is this:
- if I've never used a particular material before I create a copy of the default material (PLA, PETG, etc) profile and add to it any data the manufacturer provides (like density, etc)
- run the MVS calibration in Orca, round down a full 1mm^3/s from the result
- flow ratio and pressure advance calibrations
That's it. If it's a new spool of a know material I just re-run flow ratio and pressure advance calibrations and update if necessary. With quality manufacturers (eg; not bargain-cheap) there is usually little, if any, difference.
Rarely I'll have trouble with a new/specialty material that may need retraction tuning or something to that effect, but that's quite uncommon.
The end result is a new-to-me material had about an hour of calibrations and a new spool of a known material takes about a half an hour to validate as using good settings.
@RevHazlett… Because I too had to stumble through this process as a new-comer to the world of 3D printing, and after many failed prints in the learning process, have you thought about creating a video that shows your step-by-step process for calibrating a filament profile? I know I’ve learned a lot from your videos and am thankful for the continued information you bring to this community.
@@patrickwilliamson5737 I'll put it on my list of video ideas, but haven't had much time recently. Maybe Soon™️
Thank you for time and experience. I hate to sound stupid but if we download this profile this will automatically calibrate the filament? I'm new to 3d printing and am ready to learn
No - what's here is only the process profiles. Filament profiles are totally separate and not included since they can be very different depending on brand and even batch.