วีดีโอ

@@PixelArtSound I'll add that to the queue! Until then: 1) clone the appropriate generic profile with detailed name 2) add data from manufacturer (temp, density, price, anything else) 3) flow ratio calibration, save to cloned profile 4) pressure advance calibration, save result 5) if I'm trying to push it fast, MVS tower calibration from Orca (usually only once per manufacturer material type) That's it!

@@RevHazlett Thanks a lot. Will go for a MVS now that i fully understood it from your "One year of Lightboxes Series". With regards to filament in Bambu/Orca. Its a bit confusing creating the Profiles as some people jsut grab a Filament type (lets say Generic or any of the Bambu ones) as a starting point and then saving it under a different name with its corresponding modifications. But other people go into filaments and create a Custom Filament and work from there... Probably its plain easy, but getting to understand the structure is prooving to be a bit confusin. Seeing you videos, you manage dozens of profiles and wondered what was your train of though and workflow. Thanks again for your videos and channel. After seeing dozens of videos i can honestly say your´s offer one of the best content of the whole web! Keep it flowing please!

I'll do you one better - the model linked below is a means for you to interactively see what I'm describing! The problem is - your slicer lies to you. Values like wall overlap and such actually change the dimensions of printed lines. You'd think if you made a feature 2mm wide and used 0.4mm wide lines, that you'd get five even, clean lines. Especially if you've gone to the settings and told it to use 0.4mm lines for all features. Except you don't get five even width lines. Check out the write-up on the model and if you'd like, give it a download and play with the line width settings yourself! makerworld.com/en/models/580955

Awesome, thank you!

@@PixelArtSound thank you for the kind words!

@@johnnieellis2456 yup! I still draw the rectangle and choose "from object" and choose the face I want the tab on. That's how I did it on this one, for example - makerworld.com/en/models/393408#profileId-294558

how did you make the retainer on a curved surface. when I make one it is out in the middle of space and not on the object

@@hectorbvo thanks for the kind words! There are links in my "all about profiles" video for the profiles.

@@johnnieellis2456 when you do the extrusions, do them "from object" and select the face, not with an offset.

I've added a couple of short videos but for some reason it is not attaching to my question

th-cam.com/users/shortsBusgdluZImA?si=QnveGWHbkyo_y91m

@@michaelb7133 I saw your A1 video - at an outside guess it could be a partial clog or the temp is too low perhaps. You are letting it do the bed leveling procedure when you start a job, yes? When in doubt, double-check you have the correct material profile to match what you have loaded (eg; you have a PLA spool loaded and a PLA material profile in the slicer) and try the default settings. If that works you can change one setting at a time until it fails to identify the problem. If defaults fail then you probably need to look at a mechanical issue (like a partial clog or extruder failure). The Bambu wiki has excellent troubleshooting guides!

I have the A1 issue rectified. I posted a new one with a face plate that I printed on an X1 ​@@RevHazlett

It's in the shorts section

@@mmikegtp thank you for the kind words - I wish you luck!

@@nhboulware not really in much depth outside of this one. Early on I was busting apart some pre-fab controllers and mounting them inside the lights, but the majority of them are simple power switches and static lights. Then I embraced WLED and it's my default offering, even if mono PWM LEDs (like this one) just for the remote control and dimming. What I put in them today is really just dependant on what people want. Some folks just want a light that turns on and that's all they care about. Some folks want the full HomeAssistant integration. I still have plenty of orders that get fulfilled with an inline dimmer on the USB cable and no remote control at all. I do have a more in-depth walkthrough on LED types and control considerations in my video queue, but I've had precious little free time to make it. Soon™️!

@@RevHazlett Thanks. ill be on the look out for that. Im still trying to figure out what direction to go with my designs.

@@xn0tbad Sure is! I admin on the Shurdle3D discord and Multicolor Printing FB group: discord.gg/KJ8ZAFTDxy facebook.com/groups/multicolor

@@TheDrunkenAlcoholic I'm glad it was useful for you! Also... yeah... I corrected myself a few times on filet/filet but my brain is set in its ways and when I see the word I mentally go back to cleaning fish 🤣

@JustinRicheson parking position was set with trial and error - I ended up using +5 on Z and setting and absolute X20 Y0 because for my printer that put it pooping off the front of the plate. Depending on how your printer's dimensions and homing are set up it may be different. For example mine sees the bed as 235x235 from an absolute 0,0 in the lower left corner, not 220x220 from the middle. Klipper can get weird from machine to machine and a LOT of it is trial and error!

@JustinRicheson as for the rest - they were either defaults or undefined. I never changed those.

@@belakulcsar a rarity, for me 🤣

Yeah, there are quite a few. I need to get a solid reference section together, but haven't taken the time to renovate what I had thrown together some time ago at ludicrosity.net/3dp I hate saying this, but the best thing for right now is to look in the project descriptions on MakerWorld since I usually link relevant parts there when I post the projects themselves. makerworld.com/en/@RevHazlett What I use most commonly though: - Wemos D1 Mini V3 - BTF-Lighting WS2812B-ECO 60/m RGBIC LEDs (per-pixel addressable LEDs) - Xunata or Pautix 320/m 4000k (or 6000k) White 5V COB LEDs (Xunata also makes a lot of neat colored COBs) - AOD4814 PWM driver (for PWM driven non-IC LEDs) - USB-C Connector Jack - M1.7x5 and M2.3x5 self-tapping screws That's like... 90% of what goes in to my projects.

That’s perfect thank you.

As printed or as rendered?

In fusion? Sorry I should have specified.

@@cluna92377 no worries! A lot of folks have been using "cold" white filaments that have extra pigment in them that look horrid as light boxes, so I wanted to make sure. Use "matte plastic" in Fusion. Here's a quickie on that - th-cam.com/video/1zLie8ZlVSA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=XMttxFvG-0QQ6zsA

Thank you. I use elegoo white to print with and it prints and shows great. But when I go to render all the whites in fusion I’ve used look gray in the rendering. I’ll definitely give your suggestions a try

@@Tdi-o2q thanks! Just an unscripted quickie for a dude looking to make some coasters. Faster than trying to type it all out 😂

@@manmohansingh4737 very kind words, thank you! I have a hastily made, incomplete, and not updated site over at ludicrosity.net/3dp/ that I was going to add to the descriptions once I find the time and motivation to completely rebuild it. What IS there may still be useful though!

@@RevHazlett I understand the site you have referenced is incomplete, however, I know it will be great when you get done with it. I am not building any lightboxes and am just a retired Quantum Computing engineer/scientist. I found the information on LEDs and electronics components very useful and practical for a generic electronics hobbyist. I wish you best of the luck. If an old-timer can suggest anything, please keep sharing your knowledge, without constraints, with others.

@@UserUser-99 thanks! I bought a couple of these CYDs because they seemed like something fun to mess around with (ultimately I want to make a "matter remote" of sorts for WLED), and while holding one decided I just _had_ to make an old CRT 🤣

@@cypis007 mighty kind of you! What could I improve on the next one?

In the bottom center of the workspace there's a toolbar that has a few icons - one is a computer monitor. Click on that and choose a different option under "environment." I believe what I'm using in the video is "River Rubicon," but I could be wrong about that.

@@TheCameraWall they're all published!

For popular things you can find dimensioned drawings and recreate them with a few construction lines, but usually I just take my calipers to whatever new thing I've ordered and draw it out. I find it helpful to draw the whole thing even if I'm only extruding the mounting tabs so I know how big the complete component is. Lets me really pack things together, like this little bitty WLED controller for shelf lights. ludicrosity.net/3dp/showoff/shelf-controller.jpg

Thank you!

@patrickwilliamson5737 there are several different schools of thought when it comes to how to make these - this is just the how and why of my take on it. Thank you for the kind words, I hope you see improved results!

@@RevHazlett Yep, many ideas out there. Pete does a great job as well and I'v learned a lot from him as well; but I like your method the best.

I thought about that last year when I focused on GeneriBox, the boring rectangle that you could simply add art to. Magnets add bulk (which can cast shadows), cost, and complexity of making holes that fit every time... and they're not necessary. The little retaining tabs that I modeled in hold the faces firmly in place with no issues. Near the end of Pt 3 I shake this one violently and the face stays locked right in. I've used the same geometry for the tabs on many prints - flat and round, whatever. I also use it to lock together non-lightbox prints like electronics boxes and such. Never had it fail me.

@@RevHazlett Many thanks for the reply. I'm still very much still a novice, I was happy after I successfully printed my first box with a lip and it seated perfectly and then after all that couldn't think of a way to close it without gluing it permanently! I will look at the retaining tabs, thank you.

@@directorski these will actually re open with a bit of squeezing and fiddling.

I'm glad you find it useful, that's why I do it 😀 I have in the works right now a super-condensed "just the bullet points" version as well as a "how to choose the right LEDs" video as well. Soon™

@@RevHazlett I look forward to those videos as well. 😁 Keep 'em coming.

@@mikekiske aw, thank you. You can chop wires shorter, bind them up cleaner, etc. I leave a little more than I actually need just to make it easy 🤣

@@RevHazlett But it's still the best I've seen. Most people just use hot glue and that's it. 😮 Is there a special reason for the white led line surrounding the entire piece?"

@@mikekiske That's explained in the other two parts - it's a translucent glow-in-the-dark filament. The light from the box will cast out sideways like a bias light and illuminate the wall around it. There's a link in the description that has lots of my light boxes with photos, you can see it in most of them.

@@7dedlysins193 I think that's going to be the next video, comparing the different types of LEDs. I've already made a little example of this so it wouldn't be too bad to put an explanation together.

@@sandykil Je suis désolé, ils sont uniquement en anglais. J'espère que les sous-titres fonctionnent !

@@RevHazlett oui ils fonctionnent et je vous comprends assez bien en plus ! Je parle un petit peu anglais :) Merci pour tes vos vidéos, c'est grâce à vous que j'ai fabriqué mes premières lampes !

@@sandykil De rien!

@@RevHazlett You speak a little french yeahh !

@@sandykil I learned a little in Montreal and Quebec. I'm still checking my translations online though :)

@@vindication84 thanks! It's a labor of love (and frustration) modernizing these old printers 😂 All the things I have bolted on to that printer are here in this collection - www.printables.com/@RevHazlett_949079/collections/696392 As for that PCB sticking out of the top, that's a PiCam that I was playing with to add a second angle camera looking directly down the Y axis, but never rebuilt the shell to incorporate it.

@@williamsmallwood8846 I've never used the sonic pad so I'm not positive where it will be different. I wish I could give you better information, but the KlipperScreen wiki ultimately gave me what I needed after a lot of trial and error to get it working. klipperscreen.readthedocs.io/en/latest/

@mrskwrl yeah... that was a $5 Black Friday microphone that picked up more environment than subject. I tried to clean it up but have only the basics of audio knowledge. Fortunately I've got a better one now and I think it's improved a lot!

I'm sorry - when I had recorded this the software I was using didn't capture right-click menus. In the current version of Studio, you can highlight multiple objects by holding CTRL and clicking either the objects on the plate or from the objects menu on the left. Once you have two or more, right click and choose "Merge" and they will become an assembly.

Thank you so much! Learned a lot from this video!

That was an image supplied by one of our community members who I helped clean his print up. Sadly I never got an after image from him, just confirmation that "it looks great now."

Back in Fusion where I extrude 0.60mm you could do 1.0 or 1.2mm instead. Each layer will add time - particularly for the filament swaps. It will also reduce the amount of light let through, which could be detrimental to the overall effect. Using lights with super high output will consume more power (potentially more than common supplies can provide), and also increase the heat output. You're making a sealed plastic box; if it gets too hot it could start to deform and fall apart. Try a quick test print to see how your filament looks at different thicknesses - makerworld.com/en/models/38049#profileId-36729

That's the beauty of it - you don't. The filament swap will be introduced when necessary by Orca. You can scroll the gcode like I did to find the M600s, or perhaps export the gcode so you can open it in something like notepad++ and just search for it. It's very different than the Cura (and it's clones like Creality slicer) where you would have to insert the changes manually. The slicer engine is built around this method so you only need to make sure your model is correct in the Prepare tab, check it in the Preview tab just to make sure, them stand by and be ready to swap the filaments when the print head parks and it prompts you.

You're welcome!