because of your video I cleaned my negative wire to the body from the battery I got AM reception for the first time I had to drive car to work 2 1/2 days 200 miles to clear permanent code set o2 monitor thank you for your help like tech line says check your grounds
I dont care what some ppl said here but i swapped in a new battery this morning, all monitors wiped again, started an all-in-one drive cycle immediately. I was pretty upset with street traffic and freeway speed throwing me off the drive cycle spec, still i try to get closer to the speed in the book, idle, stop time etc... after 30 mins i stopped and all monitors are completed except Evap (good enough for emission). I spent a month trying to boot the O2 sensor and failed until I watch your video, gave it a shot and it worked! Thank you!!!! 2015 Jeep renagade 1.4L manual transmission.
Had the same "O2 monitor not ready" issue with my 2004 Nissan Titan. Failed smog test. I couldn't find a drive cycle specific to the Titan, so tried several generic versions. None worked. Drove at least 150 miles. I then went to a local shop and spoke to a mechanic. He said he gets 4-5 of these issues every month. The fix can be very expensive because the procedure can be so time consuming. He wrote down the following drive cycle and said it has worked for him 95% of the time. (turns out he doesn't work on European makes) From a cold start, idle 1-2 minutes. Drive with light throttle to highway. Stop on side of on ramp and idle, in drive, foot on brake for 2 minutes. Accelerate to freeway speed 55-65 mph and maintain speed for at least 5 miles. (do not use cruise control) Coast to a stop on the side of freeway in drive. Do not apply brake until speed is below 20 mph. Once stopped, continue to hold brake for 2 minutes while still in drive. Shift to Park, shut off ignition and remove key. I ran through the procedure 3 times unsuccessfully before realizing I wasn't completing the last step. I was simply driving away without shutting everything down. When I ran through all the steps above as listed, all monitors were ready when I restarted. I can't say this will work in every instance, but it did for me. Worth trying before shelling out money on expensive parts. Full disclosure, I disconnected the battery and cleaned the terminals before performing the last (4th)cycle. Don't know if it helped.
I am having trouble with my 2005 Nissan Titan as well. I have the BlueDrive Scan Tool to see if its ready to pass emissions. I drove it for 60 miles yesterday. My Evap System says its not ready. I've tried the Evap Steps on google that say Idle for 4 minutes drive in stop and go traffic for 5 minutes and Idle for 4 minutes i also have my fuel in between 3/4 and 1/4. nothing seems to get that evap system ready. i have 0 codes. I also have your issue with the O2 sensor not ready. i will try the drive cycle and recommendations tonight and hope it at least gets the O2 sensor to be ready. Thank you
@@rollinsdet8229 i was able to solve .y problem with replacing the battery (it was bad) and bought a new gas cap and drove it around. It got my evap ready to test. In my county only 1 emissions readiness can fail if vehicle is from 2000-current
Having the same issue with my 2011 JKU. Replaced battery and O2 sensors with no luck. I was reading if your speedometer is not calibrated after installing larger than stock tires or changing the axle gear ratios, that might have something to do with it. Just installed the JScan app and going to calibrate my Jeep to a 37” tire and go for a drive.
sometimes just doing a battery disconnect will do it. if the monitors run out of sequence while driving, it will block other monitors from running. also, drive within normal parameters. don't go over 55-60 mph, drive for intervals at 35-40 mph. hope this helps.
Oxygen sensor. SAME STORY: I own a 2010 Jeep Wrangler . The engine light came on. Went to my mechanic he said the sensors where fine. Then the light went off , I was so excited . Went to get a sticker it failed he said to drive it 75 miles. I did and it didn’t pass. I’m Loosing my mind . The only thing I haven’t done is the battery, I’m going to try that. First I’m going to say a pray. Thank you again . Gayle
Hope it works out. I still did a drive the day I changed it. But when I started it up the next morning, the light had cleared. Strange that it failed with the light off. That's more concerning... could be tons of things. I'd get a computer on it and see if it kicks out any codes. Hopefully, but unlikely, the engine light is just burned out. Fingers crossed either way.
2004 dodge neon 2.0L cathalyst and oxygen sensor monitors stuck in 'not ready' status (incomplete), no DTCs. I was told to drive the car some 80 miles for the tests to complete. 150 miles and nothing. 250, 350 miles, and nothing. 530 miles, and nothing! I looked up on line a monitor Drive cycle, which weird procedures seemed to me like a magic ritual. I tried three times the manufacturer recommended drive cycle very carefully and accurately, but zero results; the 'not ready' notices still there. A mechanic told me it could be a bad computer, other, a bad timing belt, bad catalytic convertor, keep driving it more in low speed neighborhoods, and so on. The battery was about 6 months old, it was giving 12.6V at rest and 13.7V with engine at idle. So it was not the battery in my case. I started a trial and error rule out process starting by changing the air filter and pcv valve, both that I had never changed. I started the car and immediately checked the OBDII scaner, and both of the 'not ready' nitices were gone! All the monitors were ready to pass inspection. I was surprised! And greatly relieved too.
Take a 02 bung and weld that on the o2 sensor hole on pipe this will space the 02 up and out of the way of exhaust flow . Tricks the 02 especially if you have a high flow or no cat exhaust
That is interesting. I was trying to get my friends 2013 BMW M3 ready for inspection and he drove it 232 miles and had 23 cold start ups and still was not ready. So I took it I noticed a warning “ battery excessive discharge “ and thought nothing of it as he said it was there for a while. I drove it and got the cat ready this morning but the O2 would not ready than I saw this …so maybe it is the issue . Thanks!
Good battery is a must on modern cars the electronics/ecu are sensitive to current and voltage and a week battery will cause problems that you wouldn't think
I'm only a shade tree mechanic, but there might be something to that if the battery isn't getting the top top charge back. The battery reading an "okay" charge, but being low enough to trip the sensors was ultimately what I think caused my situation. Who knows? I think that engineer in here is on to something, in that they don't truly publish anything for us... so we're left to TH-cam and forums to figure it out. I only posted this video to help those pulling their hair out like me.
When you drove your car, did you drove it on the freeway? or side street? i'm having the same issue with my 2009 nissan maxima i replaced both upstream 02 senseor because that was the original fault during the smog test OBD2.i drove my car to the freeway for about an hour 70 miles and still the sam fault. sensor not ready.
I did drive it on the freeway. My Jeep called for so much speed for so long, stop, again, stop, again... etc. I did those, but then just drove it about 50 miles for 2 nights on the freeway. I tested it that last night after it was parked and it failed. The next morning it passed. No idea... but the final move was the battery. That's the reason for this post. Even if the battery is barely off, it won't allow the O2s be ready to test. Dumb, but true.
I suspect in his replacing some components, swapping the battery helped the ECM to refresh it's data log and reestablish it's data module? And as someone else pointed out below in a comment, the method that seemed to work was: 3 55-60(+/-) mph 5 minutes, drift to 20 mph and then remain at a stop for 2 minutes while still in drive (idle,) and then put in park; removing keys from the ignition. Any slight interruption or odd acceleration will prevent it from completing fully, but also it's important to idle from before (to get the O2 sensors into proper temps,) and retain a consistent performance during the drive time, while also removing the keys from the ignition so that it completes that cycle. Some suggest it's important to start the car from a "cold start" (which for GM is about 11 degrees from the temperature of the engine which only shows about 120 Fahrenheit reading on the coolant temps, though is presumably lower than that,) may have something to do with how the fuel in the tank (hence Evap) is pressurized to send vapor into the ignition chamber (and if it isn't pressurized, this could be caused by the fuel cap not sealing correctly (and something I tried to do is use electrical tape around the lip of the tank to tighten the cap, since it was feeling a little loose. Other possibilities are solenoids and perhaps even the carbon filter used to stabilize the vapors, (EDIT: but also the PCV valve is something I just checked, which takes about a minute if you know where to look, though it should be the rear passenger or drivers side corner of the engine, and noticed it drastically needed cleaning, so I used throttle body cleaner sprayed through the center which should have a small ball cylinder that can be heard when shaken which is needed to move freely within it for the gas vapors to move properly through the system, and if not functioning properly can result in bad timing chains as well as other issues such as poor idling. . . so perhaps a major oversight in emissions monitors?) Most fuel additives are completely useless (though things like Marvel Mystery Oil are something that could be used for oil 10 miles before changing it, and no longer.) Royal Purple Max Clean seems to clean the fuel injectors and has noticeable improvement, and using 'Top Tier' fuel seems to be suggested as better than alternatives (though this might just be a bias from those lured in by marketing?) I can see the battery being an issue in general when it comes to these monitors, which may be why the process often suggests turning off anything but the engine when running these tests, and leaving the windows open in place of using the AC (though usually the cold start warm up suggests leaving everything on including the rear defroster to allow the ecm to register the system's vitality.) I'm still not sure, but I will adapt the turning the car off after the 2 minute idling, and try to turn off the car before starting the main drive down the highway. This will still probably be a bit annoying, though I'll possibly update this post if I confirm the process works.
So I just had to have my 2012 Jeep Patriot sport smog it failed cause the 02 sensor was not ready it took me a month and a lot of online research and a new battery was my problem the battery was about 7 years old I drove the car for 150 miles and finally the 02 sensor became ready.
Reflash PCM per TSB 18-027-10. May need to run special drive cycle to set O2 monitor. [Coast from 70 to 30mph three times then pullover and restart engine.]
I replaced fuel injectors for misfire issue, now Emission test not pass due to FUE not ready even after many hours driving, you think need to coding new fuel injectors to pass Emission test or coding new injectors not related to Emission test ?
@@jessebiltz2292 first of all, thanks for asking. After doing some more research I found out that, after doing a full service of a car or disconnecting the battery, the computer has to run a full check of some sensors. This can take up to 2 weeks or about 600 to 800 miles of driving the vehicle. My client drove the truck about 600 miles during a week. I scanned the vehicle again and did a pre-smog check obtaining a good result. It wasn’t the battery but more of a full drive cycle for the computer to put everything back in order.
@@jesusojeda6310 it did not need a new battery, the truck just needed to be drove around for some miles and that was it. I also had the same problem with a VW car, asked the client to drive about 600 miles and worked like a charm.
Just to throw it out there, my GF couldn't complete the drive cycle for the smog test. The Cat was changed last time on a code. There were no codes this time. We checked the battery and the alternator was putting out 14vdc. At rest, the battery was about 12.4 vdc. We drove the heck out of it but still couldn't complete the drive cycle so we took it to our trusted mechanic. I had a suspicion that it was a lazy downstream O2 sensor and shazam, it was. The mechanic changed out the downstream O2 sensor and it cleared the drive cycle after 7 miles of driving.
My experience is similar. I erased an error code while car is running and engine hot. Then I drove for a long time. The cat, evap, and all monitors are ready except the OS2 monitor. that thing just won't become ready. drove for 2 days and Os2 is still not ready. Then I remembered your video. Maybe the computer in the car got a glitch in it and simply forgot the run the Os2 monitor when I reset the computer while car is still running and with engine hot. So what I did is disconnected the battery after a full charge with a battery charger. And start the whole drive cycle over again.
Having the same issue. My battery is fairly new though. From my research, it appears that what you did was probably reset the PCM/ECM as a result of pulling out the battery. Meaning the battery might still be fine, just you managed to reset the PCM/ECM which got all the sensors working again. At least that's what they are saying on some wrangler forums. Like you I am trying this process last, when it should have been first.
Hi there, thanks for an interesting post. Apart from the O2 sensor status being 'not ready', what symptoms were you getting? Any issues with air/fuel mix, rough idle etc? With my BMW E90 (N43 engine 4 cylinder), I had a very rough idle and replaced plugs & coils, with some improvement. Only improved noticeably after replacing the low pressure fuel sensor. However, I still have some light rough idling and a basic diagnostic shows CAT not ready and O2 sensor not ready. A local mechanic suspected NOX sensor fault. Interestingly, I also have a CC-ID 415 code for 'battery discharge rate high'. Difficult to be sure what to do next, but will probably have battery test, then consider sensors.
Run some fuel system cleaner/Cat cleaner through it. Drive it. Also change up the speeds, 50 mph 10 min NO BRAKING, 55MPH 10 MIN no braking. Early in the Morning or late at night otherwise traffic won't permit these speeds. Get yourself a cheap 25 dollar scan tool to check the monitor. Then you won't need to take it to the smog shop. You'll know.
I had this pesky problem with my 2012 Nissan Rogue. I got a new battery before my Smog...big mistake. I finally took it to a mechanic asked them to "Complete the drive cycle" for me then smog it. My car passed and I picked it up in 3 hours.
My battery was drained in dec i put it on charger and disconnected aux battery snd pulled fuse for aux battery no lights no issues, now iwent for smog check and it failed because o2 sensor not ready. When i start jeep it's at 14.5 volts. Any ideas?
The non twilight zone facts about this mess. Unless the battery completely dies or there is a short... the computer will not reset. The drive cycle is not "miles" it's a systems check that is done at intervals you are driving i.e 35 miles per hour for X minutes and 55 mph for X minutes to do the systems check ( this information is NOT available and this IS the twilight zone nonsense that make you want to pull your hair out). It depends on the manufacturer for that but good luck finding it because most of it is not listed. Hocus pocus like this is why the older cars weren't so much hassle. I'm an engineer and can tell you first hand... the whole inspection process has nothing to do with actual car performance. That is simply done by looking at the systems (lights, brakes, horn) and the emissions SHOULD be checked at the tail pipe because the "computer" is fallible and can give false readings. Money maker for the state ( you have to have it for tags now) and inspection stations.. nothing more or less.
Couldn't agree more. California is great at finding ways to make things just a tad more difficult than they should be. If it were about emissions, they'd take it from the tailpipe and call it a day.
@@jessebiltz2292 this just happened to me today on my JL. It has sat for 300 days and I purchased it and been driving it and giving it love. Smog check Los Angeles said my sensor wasn’t online. Driving around is a waste of time. I’m changing the battery and aux battery and I’ll go retest next week. Thank you for this you saved me time and gas.
I'm not criticizing your video at all but your magic doesn't work for my truck and this is what really infuriates me about my state and other states and their emphasis on obd testing and not emissions testing. I mean they consider obd to be a smog device and if it's not working then you must be producing emissions w/o actually testing emissions. My battery is good. I've tested it. Gone thru several hours of reconditioning and recharging and it doesn't work. I've had my truck 24 years and it's always been a problem. Before that, and this is cross my heart a true story, one year my car failed in cali, and I rebuilt this electronic controlled carb. I had no idea what I was doing but took it apart but a new float in it and cleaned it and reset per the instr and took it back and it passed. Two years later it failed again, I rebuilt it again, took it to a dealership this time for the test and it caught on fire. Not badly but it melted some of the hoses. They replaced the hoses at $150 loss to me but ... it passed the smog. On the truck I have now, I've had it 24 years and it's always hard to get past the 'drive cycle'. The only thing that works is driving a lot, while closing one eye and using only one hand and singing I can't drive 55 as loud as I can.
Hey John. Not offended. I'm not precious about my fix or whatever worked for me. Just trying to help anyone it helps. As for the battery testing "good"... mine did too. Apparently, some of the sensors are crazy sensitive to the voltage output. I don't know if that's what fixed it, but I had done drive cycles for weeks repairing other items. The parts store probably felt sorry for having seen me for several days in a row spending more money, so they replaced the battery for free. I drove it that day for about 50 miles (I think. It's been a while.) and then the next morning is was clear. Couldn't agree more about SMOG actually being about SMOG and not the electronics behind the tests. Stick a sensor in the pipe and rev. That should be the test. All this other stuff is either thoughtless legislation or nefarious greed. I love California, but sometimes I absolutely hate the way it's run.
Everyone... this is Cameron Rae. He spent a bunch of cash money on a stock Rubicon and now tries to wave at every Jeep on the road. Sadly, none of them wave back because it's not lifted. He wants to be part of the club, so if you all could please follow his Insta @cameron0479 and make him feel loved, that would be amazing. Welcome to the fam Cam.
also for "dodge" products if battery isnt charging its more then likely its the PCM as the PCM controls the charging and they did this so you gotta buy an expensive $$$ computer for something as simple and inexpensive formerly as not charging.
I recently did some work on my 2014 Chevy Cruze to get the 'Service Engine Soon Light" off! At first my o2 censors monitors were reading NOT READY which I expected. But the next day they were reading N/A. I thought they read either READY or NOT READY but never N/A? Any suggestions?
Never EVER assume batteries are good always check them first with a modern digital tester the old style testers toss them as they do not check for shorted plates and a battery can look and function like new and pass all tests and still have a shorted plate and create all kinds of hair pulling gremlins and electrical issues. The moral of this particular story is dont simply replace things willy nilly TEST them prior unless it is a maintenance item them change away. Also o2 sensor rear of the cats serve no function other then to tell you if cat is bad or missing and zero to do with drivability or to run vehicle. also 99% of the time an o2 sensor fails becuae its dirty .. remove clean and replace and you save at minumum $140 for 4 cheap generic crap sensors or $85 plus for oem replacements.
Normal. I had it tested at an auto shop and on my own. I can't remember the readings, but they fell in the "battery okay" range. That's why it wasn't my first move... but ended up being the move that fixed it. I hadn't driven the Jeep in a while, so that might have triggered it. But the only video I saw mentioning the battery said exactly what I experienced. After the change, it still took a day or so to clear all the sensors. Hope this helps.
@@jessebiltz2292 but you changed the plugs and coil same time as the battery I changed battery and drove 600m so far still have O2 Sensor NC have not changed plugs though or coil
@@dtlastraightahead2133 Yeah, that's a good point. It wasn't at the same time, but it was within 2 weeks. I had done all 4 O2 sensors, plugs, etc. None of that fixed anything, even with all of the drive cycles. The battery deal was the first thing I read and the last thing I did. Who knows what actually worked.
@@jessebiltz2292 yeah since I asked I finally finished O2 sensor replaced battery drove 500 miles and nothing replaced fuel evaporative canister then drove another 300 miles and nothing the next day after seeing your vid drove 60 miles and kabam hit it . A Fiat parts man said the ESIM (part of the canister) can hold up O2 sensors but battery was over 5 yrs old too.
There's a Mopar warranty for this.. Vehicles: This Extended Warranty Bulletin applies only to vehicles built between March 31, 2004 MOH (0331xx) through June 29, 2006
@@jessebiltz2292 odb2 sensor not ready. I'm going to try a drive cycle, and maybe that'll help. I have a 2015 Challenger and the battery has 14.2V charge level. If the drive cycle fails to pass it I'll buy a battery last resort.
Clearing the vehicle memory (disconnecting the battery) will make the car system check the monitors from the start again, and that drive cycle needs to start with a cold engine... so disconnect the battery, then you can reconnect the battery after 15 minutes, let it sit overnight for the sensors to cool off (if the engine is warm) and then take it for some driving. Too bad you replaced all those parts and a battery.
Once that car's computer is disconnected from the battery in any way or jumped from low voltage you will lose all the information of the previous drive cycles or if you erase a check engine lights. In other words you have to start all over. It will not magically fix the trouble you was having plus you still can fail with a test ready vehicle that is the whole idea. Remember you are just trying to get it test ready.✌
Drive as close to 55 as you can for roughly 100 miles and it should be ready, I’m surprised the smog person didn’t tell you that after checking it he prolly wanted you to keep bringing it back so he can get your $$
This is such a huge waste of time and gas!! I have a 2009 6.1 Challenger with 2000 miles on it, won't pass emissions - guy at Emissions said do a drive cycle. A 2013 Roush Mustang with 2500 miles on it, S.S.D.D. again guy at Emissions said do a drive cycle. So I downloaded a step by step procedure for a drive cycle on the mustang. I wasted an hour driving around, only to put the OBD 2 tester on it, and it showed not ready!! I just know the guy who came up with this is laughing his ass off at us!!
It's not always a battery if don't if they're if you're not getting any signal and it's not an O2 sensor it can sure enough be not getting enough air through the system there's other sorts that would cause that but never a battery
@@jessebiltz2292 I'm pretty sure you probably didn't understand what I was trying to say I've dealt with my vehicle for a while now and I've learned a lot from it with all the codes that ever popped up I was just trying to help out or maybe you might have been able to help me out my other problem is that I feel system is good my battery is good and I changed out my battery to a die hard and I own an 04 BMW so I didn't have to get it coated or nothing like that other than that I have a vacuum leak I mean an exhausted excuse me I know exactly where it's at just it's pretty cold out here in Connecticut right now and I'm hoping to get this thing done in my vacation hits and two more weeks
Jeep is Chrysler which = junk! I wouldn't mess with one unless it was late 90's early 2000's Yes penut gallery I am a ASE tech and am speaking with experience.
because of your video I cleaned my negative wire to the body from the battery I got AM reception for the first time I had to drive car to work 2 1/2 days 200 miles to clear permanent code set o2 monitor thank you for your help like tech line says check your grounds
Sweet. Glad it worked.
@@jessebiltz2292 ]]]
I dont care what some ppl said here but i swapped in a new battery this morning, all monitors wiped again, started an all-in-one drive cycle immediately. I was pretty upset with street traffic and freeway speed throwing me off the drive cycle spec, still i try to get closer to the speed in the book, idle, stop time etc... after 30 mins i stopped and all monitors are completed except Evap (good enough for emission). I spent a month trying to boot the O2 sensor and failed until I watch your video, gave it a shot and it worked! Thank you!!!! 2015 Jeep renagade 1.4L manual transmission.
Sweet. Glad it worked out.
Thank you, for the video. I have a charger and live in Ca . Going through the same thing . What a pain.
I'll try it...
Had the same "O2 monitor not ready" issue with my 2004 Nissan Titan. Failed smog test. I couldn't find a drive cycle specific to the Titan, so tried several generic versions. None worked. Drove at least 150 miles.
I then went to a local shop and spoke to a mechanic. He said he gets 4-5 of these issues every month. The fix can be very expensive because the procedure can be so time consuming. He wrote down the following drive cycle and said it has worked for him 95% of the time. (turns out he doesn't work on European makes)
From a cold start, idle 1-2 minutes.
Drive with light throttle to highway. Stop on side of on ramp and idle, in drive, foot on brake for 2 minutes.
Accelerate to freeway speed 55-65 mph and maintain speed for at least 5 miles. (do not use cruise control)
Coast to a stop on the side of freeway in drive. Do not apply brake until speed is below 20 mph.
Once stopped, continue to hold brake for 2 minutes while still in drive.
Shift to Park, shut off ignition and remove key.
I ran through the procedure 3 times unsuccessfully before realizing I wasn't completing the last step. I was simply driving away without shutting everything down. When I ran through all the steps above as listed, all monitors were ready when I restarted.
I can't say this will work in every instance, but it did for me. Worth trying before shelling out money on expensive parts.
Full disclosure, I disconnected the battery and cleaned the terminals before performing the last (4th)cycle. Don't know if it helped.
I am having trouble with my 2005 Nissan Titan as well. I have the BlueDrive Scan Tool to see if its ready to pass emissions. I drove it for 60 miles yesterday. My Evap System says its not ready. I've tried the Evap Steps on google that say
Idle for 4 minutes
drive in stop and go traffic for 5 minutes
and Idle for 4 minutes
i also have my fuel in between 3/4 and 1/4. nothing seems to get that evap system ready.
i have 0 codes. I also have your issue with the O2 sensor not ready. i will try the drive cycle and recommendations tonight and hope it at least gets the O2 sensor to be ready.
Thank you
@@rollinsdet8229 i was able to solve .y problem with replacing the battery (it was bad) and bought a new gas cap and drove it around.
It got my evap ready to test.
In my county only 1 emissions readiness can fail if vehicle is from 2000-current
I wish this video cam up sooner. New Battery and then 02s reset the first time. Thank you
YW. Glad it worked out. Tell a friend.
Having the same issue with my 2011 JKU. Replaced battery and O2 sensors with no luck. I was reading if your speedometer is not calibrated after installing larger than stock tires or changing the axle gear ratios, that might have something to do with it. Just installed the JScan app and going to calibrate my Jeep to a 37” tire and go for a drive.
sometimes just doing a battery disconnect will do it. if the monitors run out of sequence while driving, it will block other monitors from running. also, drive within normal parameters. don't go over 55-60 mph, drive for intervals at 35-40 mph. hope this helps.
Oxygen sensor.
SAME STORY:
I own a 2010 Jeep Wrangler . The engine light came on. Went to my mechanic he said the sensors where fine. Then the light went off , I was so excited . Went to get a sticker it failed he said to drive it 75 miles. I did and it didn’t pass. I’m Loosing my mind . The only thing I haven’t done is the battery,
I’m going to try that. First I’m going to say a pray.
Thank you again . Gayle
Hope it works out. I still did a drive the day I changed it. But when I started it up the next morning, the light had cleared. Strange that it failed with the light off. That's more concerning... could be tons of things. I'd get a computer on it and see if it kicks out any codes. Hopefully, but unlikely, the engine light is just burned out. Fingers crossed either way.
2004 dodge neon 2.0L cathalyst and oxygen sensor monitors stuck in 'not ready' status (incomplete), no DTCs. I was told to drive the car some 80 miles for the tests to complete. 150 miles and nothing. 250, 350 miles, and nothing. 530 miles, and nothing! I looked up on line a monitor Drive cycle, which weird procedures seemed to me like a magic ritual. I tried three times the manufacturer recommended drive cycle very carefully and accurately, but zero results; the 'not ready' notices still there. A mechanic told me it could be a bad computer, other, a bad timing belt, bad catalytic convertor, keep driving it more in low speed neighborhoods, and so on. The battery was about 6 months old, it was giving 12.6V at rest and 13.7V with engine at idle. So it was not the battery in my case. I started a trial and error rule out process starting by changing the air filter and pcv valve, both that I had never changed. I started the car and immediately checked the OBDII scaner, and both of the 'not ready' nitices were gone! All the monitors were ready to pass inspection. I was surprised! And greatly relieved too.
Thank you. I will try the new battery option. I'm in the same boat you were.
Take a 02 bung and weld that on the o2 sensor hole on pipe this will space the 02 up and out of the way of exhaust flow . Tricks the 02 especially if you have a high flow or no cat exhaust
The cold start could be part of the drive cycle too, glad you got it
Thank you very much for the video! I am not sure whether this will solve my problem but really appreciate your sharing!
That is interesting. I was trying to get my friends 2013 BMW M3 ready for inspection and he drove it 232 miles and had 23 cold start ups and still was not ready. So I took it I noticed a warning “ battery excessive discharge “ and thought nothing of it as he said it was there for a while. I drove it and got the cat ready this morning but the O2 would not ready than I saw this …so maybe it is the issue . Thanks!
Good battery is a must on modern cars the electronics/ecu are sensitive to current and voltage and a week battery will cause problems that you wouldn't think
I’m having the same crap. It all started when my alternator went up in smoke. I’m now wondering if it is the aftermarket alternator.
I'm only a shade tree mechanic, but there might be something to that if the battery isn't getting the top top charge back. The battery reading an "okay" charge, but being low enough to trip the sensors was ultimately what I think caused my situation. Who knows? I think that engineer in here is on to something, in that they don't truly publish anything for us... so we're left to TH-cam and forums to figure it out. I only posted this video to help those pulling their hair out like me.
When you drove your car, did you drove it on the freeway? or side street? i'm having the same issue with my 2009 nissan maxima i replaced both upstream 02 senseor because that was the original fault during the smog test OBD2.i drove my car to the freeway for about an hour 70 miles and still the sam fault. sensor not ready.
I did drive it on the freeway. My Jeep called for so much speed for so long, stop, again, stop, again... etc. I did those, but then just drove it about 50 miles for 2 nights on the freeway. I tested it that last night after it was parked and it failed. The next morning it passed. No idea... but the final move was the battery. That's the reason for this post. Even if the battery is barely off, it won't allow the O2s be ready to test. Dumb, but true.
I suspect in his replacing some components, swapping the battery helped the ECM to refresh it's data log and reestablish it's data module?
And as someone else pointed out below in a comment, the method that seemed to work was:
3
55-60(+/-) mph 5 minutes, drift to 20 mph and then remain at a stop for 2 minutes while still in drive (idle,) and then put in park; removing keys from the ignition.
Any slight interruption or odd acceleration will prevent it from completing fully, but also it's important to idle from before (to get the O2 sensors into proper temps,) and retain a consistent performance during the drive time, while also removing the keys from the ignition so that it completes that cycle.
Some suggest it's important to start the car from a "cold start" (which for GM is about 11 degrees from the temperature of the engine which only shows about 120 Fahrenheit reading on the coolant temps, though is presumably lower than that,) may have something to do with how the fuel in the tank (hence Evap) is pressurized to send vapor into the ignition chamber (and if it isn't pressurized, this could be caused by the fuel cap not sealing correctly (and something I tried to do is use electrical tape around the lip of the tank to tighten the cap, since it was feeling a little loose. Other possibilities are solenoids and perhaps even the carbon filter used to stabilize the vapors, (EDIT: but also the PCV valve is something I just checked, which takes about a minute if you know where to look, though it should be the rear passenger or drivers side corner of the engine, and noticed it drastically needed cleaning, so I used throttle body cleaner sprayed through the center which should have a small ball cylinder that can be heard when shaken which is needed to move freely within it for the gas vapors to move properly through the system, and if not functioning properly can result in bad timing chains as well as other issues such as poor idling. . . so perhaps a major oversight in emissions monitors?)
Most fuel additives are completely useless (though things like Marvel Mystery Oil are something that could be used for oil 10 miles before changing it, and no longer.) Royal Purple Max Clean seems to clean the fuel injectors and has noticeable improvement, and using 'Top Tier' fuel seems to be suggested as better than alternatives (though this might just be a bias from those lured in by marketing?)
I can see the battery being an issue in general when it comes to these monitors, which may be why the process often suggests turning off anything but the engine when running these tests, and leaving the windows open in place of using the AC (though usually the cold start warm up suggests leaving everything on including the rear defroster to allow the ecm to register the system's vitality.)
I'm still not sure, but I will adapt the turning the car off after the 2 minute idling, and try to turn off the car before starting the main drive down the highway. This will still probably be a bit annoying, though I'll possibly update this post if I confirm the process works.
So I just had to have my 2012 Jeep Patriot sport smog it failed cause the 02 sensor was not ready it took me a month and a lot of online research and a new battery was my problem the battery was about 7 years old I drove the car for 150 miles and finally the 02 sensor became ready.
Reflash PCM per TSB 18-027-10.
May need to run special drive cycle to set O2 monitor. [Coast from 70 to 30mph three times then pullover and restart engine.]
I replaced fuel injectors for misfire issue, now Emission test not pass due to FUE not ready even after many hours driving, you think need to coding new fuel injectors to pass Emission test or coding new injectors not related to Emission test ?
I’m a mobile mechanic and my client has this problem with his 08 Tacoma V6. I’ll try your approach and comment later in a week or two.
Any luck?
@@jessebiltz2292 first of all, thanks for asking. After doing some more research I found out that, after doing a full service of a car or disconnecting the battery, the computer has to run a full check of some sensors. This can take up to 2 weeks or about 600 to 800 miles of driving the vehicle.
My client drove the truck about 600 miles during a week. I scanned the vehicle again and did a pre-smog check obtaining a good result.
It wasn’t the battery but more of a full drive cycle for the computer to put everything back in order.
So it didn't work? @richipaldi
@@jesusojeda6310 it did not need a new battery, the truck just needed to be drove around for some miles and that was it. I also had the same problem with a VW car, asked the client to drive about 600 miles and worked like a charm.
Just to throw it out there, my GF couldn't complete the drive cycle for the smog test. The Cat was changed last time on a code. There were no codes this time. We checked the battery and the alternator was putting out 14vdc. At rest, the battery was about 12.4 vdc. We drove the heck out of it but still couldn't complete the drive cycle so we took it to our trusted mechanic. I had a suspicion that it was a lazy downstream O2 sensor and shazam, it was. The mechanic changed out the downstream O2 sensor and it cleared the drive cycle after 7 miles of driving.
My experience is similar. I erased an error code while car is running and engine hot. Then I drove for a long time. The cat, evap, and all monitors are ready except the OS2 monitor. that thing just won't become ready. drove for 2 days and Os2 is still not ready. Then I remembered your video. Maybe the computer in the car got a glitch in it and simply forgot the run the Os2 monitor when I reset the computer while car is still running and with engine hot. So what I did is disconnected the battery after a full charge with a battery charger. And start the whole drive cycle over again.
I just bought a new battery too... hopefully this works
Did it work?
@@Silverhands yes... just do a couple drive cycles
Having the same issue. My battery is fairly new though.
From my research, it appears that what you did was probably reset the PCM/ECM as a result of pulling out the battery. Meaning the battery might still be fine, just you managed to reset the PCM/ECM which got all the sensors working again. At least that's what they are saying on some wrangler forums. Like you I am trying this process last, when it should have been first.
What year?
@@jaym9879 2012, took it on a trip two hours away and now everything is checking out. Go figure.
@@deuswulf6193 Sweet.
Hi there, thanks for an interesting post. Apart from the O2 sensor status being 'not ready', what symptoms were you getting? Any issues with air/fuel mix, rough idle etc?
With my BMW E90 (N43 engine 4 cylinder), I had a very rough idle and replaced plugs & coils, with some improvement. Only improved noticeably after replacing the low pressure fuel sensor. However, I still have some light rough idling and a basic diagnostic shows CAT not ready and O2 sensor not ready. A local mechanic suspected NOX sensor fault. Interestingly, I also have a CC-ID 415 code for 'battery discharge rate high'. Difficult to be sure what to do next, but will probably have battery test, then consider sensors.
I got a new battery and I have nothing but problems no codes and o2 sensor not ready 5 times at the emissions place so frustrated
Run some fuel system cleaner/Cat cleaner through it. Drive it. Also change up the speeds, 50 mph 10 min NO BRAKING, 55MPH 10 MIN no braking. Early in the Morning or late at night otherwise traffic won't permit these speeds. Get yourself a cheap 25 dollar scan tool to check the monitor. Then you won't need to take it to the smog shop. You'll know.
I had this pesky problem with my 2012 Nissan Rogue. I got a new battery before my Smog...big mistake. I finally took it to a mechanic asked them to "Complete the drive cycle" for me then smog it. My car passed and I picked it up in 3 hours.
@@jaym9879 Yep. Lots of driving.
Same
What tester did you use that told you it was ready? How did you know battery was weak, just the voltage meter on Jeep?
I could never get my o2 sensor monitor to run. Ended up registering my vehicle in a county with no emissions test.
My battery was drained in dec i put it on charger and disconnected aux battery snd pulled fuse for aux battery no lights no issues, now iwent for smog check and it failed because o2 sensor not ready. When i start jeep it's at 14.5 volts. Any ideas?
The non twilight zone facts about this mess. Unless the battery completely dies or there is a short... the computer will not reset. The drive cycle is not "miles" it's a systems check that is done at intervals you are driving i.e 35 miles per hour for X minutes and 55 mph for X minutes to do the systems check ( this information is NOT available and this IS the twilight zone nonsense that make you want to pull your hair out). It depends on the manufacturer for that but good luck finding it because most of it is not listed. Hocus pocus like this is why the older cars weren't so much hassle. I'm an engineer and can tell you first hand... the whole inspection process has nothing to do with actual car performance. That is simply done by looking at the systems (lights, brakes, horn) and the emissions SHOULD be checked at the tail pipe because the "computer" is fallible and can give false readings. Money maker for the state ( you have to have it for tags now) and inspection stations.. nothing more or less.
Couldn't agree more. California is great at finding ways to make things just a tad more difficult than they should be. If it were about emissions, they'd take it from the tailpipe and call it a day.
@@jessebiltz2292 this just happened to me today on my JL. It has sat for 300 days and I purchased it and been driving it and giving it love. Smog check Los Angeles said my sensor wasn’t online. Driving around is a waste of time. I’m changing the battery and aux battery and I’ll go retest next week. Thank you for this you saved me time and gas.
I'm not criticizing your video at all but your magic doesn't work for my truck and this is what really infuriates me about my state and other states and their emphasis on obd testing and not emissions testing. I mean they consider obd to be a smog device and if it's not working then you must be producing emissions w/o actually testing emissions. My battery is good. I've tested it. Gone thru several hours of reconditioning and recharging and it doesn't work. I've had my truck 24 years and it's always been a problem. Before that, and this is cross my heart a true story, one year my car failed in cali, and I rebuilt this electronic controlled carb. I had no idea what I was doing but took it apart but a new float in it and cleaned it and reset per the instr and took it back and it passed. Two years later it failed again, I rebuilt it again, took it to a dealership this time for the test and it caught on fire. Not badly but it melted some of the hoses. They replaced the hoses at $150 loss to me but ... it passed the smog. On the truck I have now, I've had it 24 years and it's always hard to get past the 'drive cycle'. The only thing that works is driving a lot, while closing one eye and using only one hand and singing I can't drive 55 as loud as I can.
Hey John. Not offended. I'm not precious about my fix or whatever worked for me. Just trying to help anyone it helps. As for the battery testing "good"... mine did too. Apparently, some of the sensors are crazy sensitive to the voltage output. I don't know if that's what fixed it, but I had done drive cycles for weeks repairing other items. The parts store probably felt sorry for having seen me for several days in a row spending more money, so they replaced the battery for free. I drove it that day for about 50 miles (I think. It's been a while.) and then the next morning is was clear.
Couldn't agree more about SMOG actually being about SMOG and not the electronics behind the tests. Stick a sensor in the pipe and rev. That should be the test. All this other stuff is either thoughtless legislation or nefarious greed. I love California, but sometimes I absolutely hate the way it's run.
Rubicons don't usually have problems like this... is your's a Sahara by any chance?
Everyone... this is Cameron Rae. He spent a bunch of cash money on a stock Rubicon and now tries to wave at every Jeep on the road. Sadly, none of them wave back because it's not lifted. He wants to be part of the club, so if you all could please follow his Insta @cameron0479 and make him feel loved, that would be amazing. Welcome to the fam Cam.
My rubicon did this today.
Something about after all of codes clear then the O2s require a few cold starts to clear.
also for "dodge" products if battery isnt charging its more then likely its the PCM as the PCM controls the charging and they did this so you gotta buy an expensive $$$ computer for something as simple and inexpensive formerly as not charging.
I recently did some work on my 2014 Chevy Cruze to get the 'Service Engine Soon Light" off! At first my o2 censors monitors were reading NOT READY which I expected. But the next day they were reading N/A. I thought they read either READY or NOT READY but never N/A? Any suggestions?
What you end up doing about that
It won't test the O2 sensor if the battery is weak or below full charge. They are worried about draining an already dead battery.
Never EVER assume batteries are good always check them first with a modern digital tester the old style testers toss them as they do not check for shorted plates and a battery can look and function like new and pass all tests and still have a shorted plate and create all kinds of hair pulling gremlins and electrical issues. The moral of this particular story is dont simply replace things willy nilly TEST them prior unless it is a maintenance item them change away. Also o2 sensor rear of the cats serve no function other then to tell you if cat is bad or missing and zero to do with drivability or to run vehicle. also 99% of the time an o2 sensor fails becuae its dirty .. remove clean and replace and you save at minumum $140 for 4 cheap generic crap sensors or $85 plus for oem replacements.
Mines is the same, no codes oxygen sensor is the only one not monitored yet.
I'm having the same issue. Can you tell me how many amps your battery tested?
Normal. I had it tested at an auto shop and on my own. I can't remember the readings, but they fell in the "battery okay" range. That's why it wasn't my first move... but ended up being the move that fixed it. I hadn't driven the Jeep in a while, so that might have triggered it. But the only video I saw mentioning the battery said exactly what I experienced. After the change, it still took a day or so to clear all the sensors. Hope this helps.
@@jessebiltz2292 but you changed the plugs and coil same time as the battery I changed battery and drove 600m so far still have O2 Sensor NC have not changed plugs though or coil
@@dtlastraightahead2133 Yeah, that's a good point. It wasn't at the same time, but it was within 2 weeks. I had done all 4 O2 sensors, plugs, etc. None of that fixed anything, even with all of the drive cycles. The battery deal was the first thing I read and the last thing I did. Who knows what actually worked.
@@jessebiltz2292 yeah since I asked I finally finished O2 sensor replaced battery drove 500 miles and nothing replaced fuel evaporative canister then drove another 300 miles and nothing the next day after seeing your vid drove 60 miles and kabam hit it . A Fiat parts man said the ESIM (part of the canister) can hold up O2 sensors but battery was over 5 yrs old too.
Replace the oxygen sensors ..use super gas ..check engine light must come on , when you turn the key on
It wasn't the new battery that fixed it.
It was disconnecting the battery to change it which reset all drive cycles.
There's a Mopar warranty for this.. Vehicles:
This Extended Warranty Bulletin applies only to vehicles built between March 31, 2004 MOH (0331xx)
through June 29, 2006
Its sounds like disconnecting the battery and then driving it did the trick. I'm going to try that.
No, I tried that twice and it didn't work. The new battery did the trick. What happened with yours?
@@jessebiltz2292 odb2 sensor not ready. I'm going to try a drive cycle, and maybe that'll help. I have a 2015 Challenger and the battery has 14.2V charge level. If the drive cycle fails to pass it I'll buy a battery last resort.
@@RareAirTwo4 Hey, any Update ??
Clearing the vehicle memory (disconnecting the battery) will make the car system check the monitors from the start again, and that drive cycle needs to start with a cold engine... so disconnect the battery, then you can reconnect the battery after 15 minutes, let it sit overnight for the sensors to cool off (if the engine is warm) and then take it for some driving. Too bad you replaced all those parts and a battery.
Yep. Wish it had been that easy. No dice.
Did all that changed out my cats, O2 sensor mass flow sensor all that and still my check engine came on
You might of saved my ass. My battery is weak. Thank so much!
Hope it helps. Get to wasting that gas.
thanks, wish I came upon the video earlier
Did it work?
Unfortunately for me, the idling is a still a bit rough. So no such luck.
Once that car's computer is disconnected from the battery in any way or jumped from low voltage you will lose all the information of the previous drive cycles or if you erase a check engine lights. In other words you have to start all over. It will not magically fix the trouble you was having plus you still can fail with a test ready vehicle that is the whole idea. Remember you are just trying to get it test ready.✌
Yep. Fully agree.
Drive as close to 55 as you can for roughly 100 miles and it should be ready, I’m surprised the smog person didn’t tell you that after checking it he prolly wanted you to keep bringing it back so he can get your $$
Pinhole exhaust and or vacuum leaks will cause the same. Won't complete the drive cycle.
Been arrested once before. Trying two years later for a second time for illegal driving. Im a criminal.
We'll see 👀.. I have the same problem 2005 wrangler unlimited..I will also try a new battery.. everything else is new 4 o2 sensors
Update.. anybody with this problem, there's a extented factory recall...they have to do soldering on the wiring.. free of charge..
Thanx
Right now I have a 1999 Lexus ES300 and the same thing happened to me I have to buy a new battery because my was weak 🎉🎉🎉🎉😂😂😂
They should get rid of car inspections it's a money making scam I'm more nervous than being at the doctor's
Thank You So Much 😊
This is such a huge waste of time and gas!! I have a 2009 6.1 Challenger with 2000 miles on it, won't pass emissions - guy at Emissions said do a drive cycle. A 2013 Roush Mustang with 2500 miles on it, S.S.D.D. again guy at Emissions said do a drive cycle. So I downloaded a step by step procedure for a drive cycle on the mustang. I wasted an hour driving around, only to put the OBD 2 tester on it, and it showed not ready!! I just know the guy who came up with this is laughing his ass off at us!!
Good idea man thanks
Dealer did ECM UPDATE. done
It's not always a battery if don't if they're if you're not getting any signal and it's not an O2 sensor it can sure enough be not getting enough air through the system there's other sorts that would cause that but never a battery
Sorry, what?
@@jessebiltz2292 I'm pretty sure you probably didn't understand what I was trying to say I've dealt with my vehicle for a while now and I've learned a lot from it with all the codes that ever popped up I was just trying to help out or maybe you might have been able to help me out my other problem is that I feel system is good my battery is good and I changed out my battery to a die hard and I own an 04 BMW so I didn't have to get it coated or nothing like that other than that I have a vacuum leak I mean an exhausted excuse me I know exactly where it's at just it's pretty cold out here in Connecticut right now and I'm hoping to get this thing done in my vacation hits and two more weeks
Jeep is Chrysler which = junk! I wouldn't mess with one unless it was late 90's early 2000's
Yes penut gallery I am a ASE tech and am speaking with experience.
Sonyou don't like working in Pentastar engines, 3.2 and 3.6L? As lo g as you don't got to do chaims or pull the heads they're not so bad.
Damn quit babbling !!! Get to the point
Don’t make videos with no solutions
no help at all
Ha. Cool, cool. Very helpful.
You really shouldn't be giving people advice
Ha. You either then?
Thank you
Why is your smoke detector missing? Next.