Don't go hard on ANY cold engine. But don't sit for 10min warming it up. Just drive away once oil pressure up...itll heat quicker driving than sitting.
I'm curious to know - don't some transmissions also need a moment to get up to temp/pressure? Like you're supposed to load the transmission gently and let it rev up also? And I'm sure someone can also comment on tires warming up, giving suspension a little time to gain a little elasticity - maybe not strictly from a racing perspective. Something everyone can apply in a daily driving situation in terms of the other components of a car or even a motorcycle.
@@msreedaran89 To warm up an automatic transmission put in neutral not park. Trust me on this as I learned the hard way in cold WI winters and from a colleague who had lived in Alaska. Neutral activates the circulation pump whereas park doesn't.
I drive a BMW with a turbo diesel. I always drive slowly for about 5 minutes keeping PRMs low, and never go wide open throttle until the engine is at full operating temperature. This formula has worked well for me on numerous European turbocharged cars over the years.
Most engines cold start to a fast idle (~1500rpm). Good rule of thumb is to wait until it idles down (~750rpm) to begin driving if you have a turbo. As the video states, this only takes 1-2 min. A bit longer in freezing temps.
I've never owned any vehicle with a turbo. It might be nice for a car to automatically bypass the turbo until it gets up to temp - maybe not even turn it on if the drive is short enough. Maybe a little light on the dash next to a turbo gauge that indicates whether it's up to temp so you know that the beans are ready to go? I know... extra stuff that adds cost and maintenance items, but if someone already wanted a turbo instead of NA 🤷🏼♂️
@@msreedaran89 that would be nice to have. But in lieu of, staying out of boost on short trips/until the engine is up to operating temp is the next best solution imo
Mostly not enough time, so the solution is to wait at least 10 seconds before you hit the clutch and gas pedal. But also in one minute a heated Turbine just Won't cool down, Especially in the hot summer days. It takes at least 10-15 minutes if outside is warm, to cool down the Turbine .
I brought a Sierra Cosworth 3 door brand new in 1987. I used to drive it hard at night, then pull over lift the bonnet and watch the turbo and down pipe glowing. The heat was intense. Awesome. True story!
All of these recommendations apply to N/A as well as forced induction engines! Also, instead of idling a "cold" engine for 5 min, it's better to drive it EASY after about 30sec of run time. Prolonged idling of a cold engine results in a much longer warm up time. An engine under load warms up faster, getting rid of crankcase condensation more quickly, which is a GOOD thing. You are RIGHT about the "start-stop" systems causing accelerated wear of engine and related components. Not worth the 2mpg that you "save" at the pump!
Prolonged idling and then saying 30 seconds, lol. At least a minute. RPM'S will drop from cca 1400 down to 700-750. It also helps with the timing belt being adjusted and run properly being taking off and putting a load on a car.
To avoid turbo trouble, i bought a non turbo port injected car😊 regardless, i always turn off start/stop system and i use premium 98 octane gas with no ethanol. And change oil every 5.000 km.
Smart move! Naturally Aspirated engines can be less hassle. Turning off the start/stop, using premium fuel, and regular oil changes are great practices for engine longevity. Sounds like you’re taking excellent care of your car! Thanks for sharing!!
@@HonestMechanicChannelthank you, i do my best. And i have learned by doing and or failing. So now i know more about what can be better in car maintainance. For example i bought a gdi without knowing the drawbacks, i learned it the hard way so now i stick to port injection. Also have a manual transmission, less complicated and fewer things can go wrong. Also i now went back to timingbelt, after i learned the hard way that chains dont last forever, and are more work replacing than a belt. So im better off replacing a belt every 6 years.
Though it’s worth noting unless your engine is high compression and needs more octane in the fuel, higher octane fuel has zero benefit for your engine. It doesn’t produce more power, and it isn’t any cleaner than 87 octane. Octane is only needed to prevent pre combustion in a high compress engine. Unless you know something don’t, that’s what all research I’ve seen on the subject says.
Correct. People have this crazy idea that high octane fuel makes the car go better or faster or that it cleans the engine. Octane ratings have nothing to do with either of those things. Unless the car manufacturers dictates higher octane fuel then it's a waste of money. Octane is the fuels ability to withstand pre-ignition or knock meaning the fuel is combusting as the piston is trying to move upwards or at the wrong time.@@LogainTheHumane
If you live in europe your " non turbo and not Direct injection"" means a garbage 80 hp city car at best and if somehow you managed an actual NA car with over 150hp it won't be that fuel efficient since it's probably older or s SUV ( but i agree that can change based on drive styles and a turbo can be worse efficiency wise). As much as i understand that you care a lot about your engine, this sounds like a "too much" , most people can't and won't change their oil themselfes every 5k km, hell, they don't know even the basics of a turbo engine. I strongly believe that if you car is decent and it's not a shit design you should be able to change oil every 10k km-6k miles/once a year based on what comes first without issues ( which was standard and now it's even less of what manufacturers says) in the long run. It also depends on how you use your car, if you drive it gently HOME/Work and sometimes have a little fun it's a thing, if you beat the shit out of it i agree that your oil changes must be done more frequently.
Excellent video, priceless advice!!! I have 2 Audis, my wife’s Q5 and mine is a modified A5. I always do exactly what is in this video and zero issues!!!
I just bought an A5 and it's my first Audi! Have had Volkswagen in the past and never had problems but I never skipped oil changes and took good care of them so that is probably why.
@@ramses8847 Same exact path here. Bought my first car at 19 which was a 2017 Volkswagon Jetta Tsi. Just bought my 2nd car at 21, 2018 Audi S5. The thing is a beast!!
I never drive away immediately and I never drive off with a lot of throttle. And I always use premium gas and I always follow the manufacturer's maintenance instructions. Never had any engine trouble in over 30 years.
I have a 2016 Subaru Forester xt, 2.0 turbo, just turned 282,000 miles and runs like the day I bought it. I change oil every 4000 miles and have had no problems.
That’s absolutely great information. I have a Corolla GR 300HP 3 Cylinder Turbo running 26 PSI boost. I change my oil every 2500 miles. Plus I idle the car for 2 to 3 minutes before turning off, also when car is warming up I’m easy on the car until the oil is 190f. Simple small things can make a huge difference. Plus I would take it a step further with direct injection turbocharged car it’s very important to avoid short trips for fuel delusion not to occur and make sure you get your engine to operating temperature for minimum of 15 minutes.
Very good advice. I have a MINI JCW R56 and was told to let it warm up for a few mins before driving off and let it cool down a min or so before you turn off your engine.
2 min warm up before driving in the morning. 15 seconds at idle before turning off. Works for me.. 22 year old turbo diesel saab 9 5 2.2 tid engine. Engine is mint
I like this video! Only things I would add on for people to watch out for is some cars have auxiliary water pumps for the turbo so unless you were driving it like a race car…you don’t HAVE to wait before shutting off, but you shouldn’t immediately shut off after parking. Another thing is for a “cold engine” it’s far safer to wait for the high idle cold start programmed into your car to idle down (takes 30 seconds to a minute on most turbo cars) and then start driving immediately. Your engine won’t warm up enough in super cold weather so you have to drive it, BUT you have to try to stay out of boost and drive it easily without accelerating hard or hitting high rpms and a good synthetic oil won’t be as thick as molasses anyways. This is the safest way to warm up the oil and engine especially since once the car idles down there’s not enough oil pressure to completely lube the turbo and idling for a while wears out your piston rings which leads to problems of excessively burnt oil, lower power and worse gas mileage.
I used to drive a Mercedes truck, a sticker in the screen said. Do not demand full engine power until engine is fully warmed up. Good advise I think and have always remembered it.
3:09 The result is not just oil coking. The turbine shaft is still spinning at a high speed immediately after driving, so when you quickly shut off the engine, those turbine shaft bearings/bushings have zero oil pressure to lubricate and cool them. The same goes for revving the engine at a car show to impress your friends, then shutting it off.
I run my 2001 Crown Athlete VX, 1jz vvti on super unleaded and change oil and filter every 3k to 5k miles. Also fitted an oil temp and pressure gauge. Also has a turbo timer that was fitted back in Japan. Had no issues in 5 years I've owned it
Regular oil changes. Every 5k. First start of the day. I. Minute idle. Drive on but don't rev over 3k rpm for the first 3 mins as most wear happens on start up. Keep oil turbo feed pipe clean also. Good to go😊
Most wear actually happens if you don’t fill your oil filter. It takes 5 seconds for the oil the pressurize when you start the car after changing the oil and not filling the oil filter. After the engine fills the oil filter it takes less than a second for the oil to pressurize significantly decreasing wear. It’s important to fill the oil filter even if it’s mounted at the side and not upwards. Use the purlator boss filter as it prevents the oil to seep down if side mounted.
@@2seep This barely does any damage unless you floor it immediately after the first start changing the oil. RPM and combustion pressure is much lower at idle than when driving and an extra 4 seconds of cold-start wear every 4000 miles adds an infinitesimal amount compared to normal use. Getting a good filter with a silicone anti-drainback valve is far more important.
@@2seepwhat if your oil Filter is on top? 😂 no but Most oil Filters for modern Cars are small and oil circulates quickly so there is no need. takes about 5 secs to get it through the Filter in the Engine After an oil change
On a scale of 1-10 how much does synthetic oil (which doesn't get thick as fast as real oil does in freezing conditions) help with the first point about not going ham right away after starting? On the second point, how much do fuel additives designed to increase octane counteract the bad of lower grade fuel? I usually use premium but occasionally I'll use regular with an octane booster/fuel additive.
Synthetic oil does help especially the good quality GTL(gas to liquid) Fuel additives can help if you have fuel injectors since they keep your injectors clean.
well said. having had turbo cars since a 90 saab 900 turbo I have always followed these rules. Engine driven Superchargers are less of an issue since they do not share oil with the engine. Then standard let the engine oil get moving practices are in effect.
Good advice. Most engine wear takes place in the first 10 seconds after start, in addition to what is mentioned about the turbo. Quality of fuel is even more important since Crankcase oil vapour is re-routed into the engine through the intake system, which lowers the effective octane rating as well as gumming up the throttle body and intake ports.
the reason is the wltp test which measures the Gases coming out the car. and in the test theres a stopping phase every now and then. if the engine doesnt run there the manufacturers pay less for the co2 emissions and can get their cars in the market more easyly
@@gideonighodalo3476IMO two reasons. #1, the number of duty cycles on the starter. It will wear out sooner rather than later. #2, and most important, engines get their vast majority of wear and tear during startup. There is zero oil pressure when an engine is not running. Starting your engine every time you resume motion after a stop adds a huge amount of wear and tear.
Great video. Thanks for posting As you outlined its just a few basic things that need to be done CONSISTENTLY.... every day that ensures longevity of the engines I just happened to stumble upon this video on youtube, but I have always been following the 20-10-20 rule which is as follows 1) After starting the engine, idle it for 20 seconds 2) Drive gently for the first 10 minutes ( irrespective of your terrain) so that the engine and other parts warm up evenly 3) after you return to your parking, ( I mean any parking) before shutting down the engine, idle it for 20 seconds I have personally seen benefits such as.... my cars being well below emission levels( I do periodic emission tests ) and the engines would stay refined, besides, I get decent mileage ( I use the manufacturer advised octane rated fuel only) as the parts work efficiently Again, thanks for sharing, happy motoring !!!
There is a lot of information that simply isn’t given here! Modern turbo charged engines are almost always cooled with coolant so you don’t need to let them idle on shutdown! Some manufacturers have direct injected turbo engines so you can in fact run them with 89 octane! This video refers to older technology, not newer turbo charged engines! I recommend your owners manual over a TH-cam video generalization of a specific type of motor!
Wrong I have a pretty new 2018 basic VW golf sport fwd 1.8T I open gas cap it says recomended 91. So Im assuming if I put 89 octain its not a great idea.
@@totov7673It all depends on the manufacturer. My 23 Silverado turbo runs on reg 87. Most manufacturers are using water/oil cooled turbos which helps cool down the turbos after the engine is shut off. Otherwise the start/stop systems would destroy them.
There is a difference between Octane number in US and RON that is used by the rest of the world. 87 reg in US equals RON91 , 91 premium in US equals to RON95 .
Good info. I have a 2008 Acura RDX turbo tech with 61k miles and follow this advice. Only major issue so far was leaking engine gasket at 50K miles….effin expensive.
There is no need to let a modern engine idle for any length of time from a cold start. It is perfectly safe to start driving immediately provided you use gentle acceleration until everything is up to normal operating temperature. However I completely agree the worst thing you can do is to accelerate hard with a cold engine.
My first car had a turbo engine. From the get-go, without any instructions, I followed all 5 of these steps correctly. Now I understand why I've never had an issue with my turbo engine. Meanwhile, some of my buddies have had their turbo fans explode or stop working altogether.
Great video! This past summer, I purchased a TLX with the 2.0 Turbo. (I wanted the V-6 Turbo but it was hard enough trying to come by the one I bought and it was the only one on the lot.) This is my 1st ever vehicle with a turbocharger. However, I practice the same thing with my 2 other vehicles and they both have normally aspirated V-6 engines in them, but the 2019 has a gasoline direct injection engine; the 2003 does not.
Idling your car for 2-5 monutes before driving is just wasting fuel. Nobody in their right mind would use lots of revs until and engine is cold but immediately driving and stick to 2k until the oil guage moves is fine and doesn't waste 2-5 minutes of fuel sitting at 1000rpm.
This is not true at all. 5 minutes idling takes 20 times less fuel instead of driveing the car direct from start atleast in cold conditions. Idling 5 minutes lowers the fuel consumpion because the engine has gained temperature.
@ninec5257 the engine heatens very slowly when idling....after cold start 5 - 15 secs idling is okay to get oil pressure up....then carefully reving when driving until oil has 80°
After engine start in cold condition I regularly wait until the idle RPM drops down to around 800rpm. Works fine for me since years. And I only hit the pedal hard once water and oil temp is up and in green band.
Don’t sit when it’s cold. Let the oil move throughout for 10-30 seconds depending on how cold it is, then set off VERY VERY GINGERLY until oil temps are above 150°F or so, or running normal coolant temp for a few minutes when you don’t have an oil temp readout. My 2020 Veloster N has almost 100,000 miles and doesn’t have any engine issues whatsoever, including almost no catch can contents and almost zero oil consumption (I only say almost because it’s immeasurable and likely still present). It’s been tuned on a JB4 (MAP2) for 50,000 of those miles. Just took it out in 24°F weather and followed my exact words here.
A couple of months ago, the turbo of my Golf blew up because of a cold start and too much rev of immediate acceleration after a 200 m. It wasn't cheap, new parts for the engine, new turbo etc. I'm lucky thet it happened close to my home so I managed to pull over safely. So now I'm more careful.
I have been practicing these advice for more than 25 years. I never drive off without letting my car warm up for about 10 minutes. I only use 93 octane on all my cars. Based on my direct experience, I can conclude that 93 octane protects internal parts of any engine because it is so stable and as such it really prevents unstable explosions in the pistons. I stopped using 87 and 89 0ctane about 15 years ago. And, 93 octane actually burns slower and in a more stable fashion than 87 octane. Finally, I only do 3,000 miles oil changes. Cleaner oil cools the engine too. People have told me that I waste money changing oil too soon. Well, my advice to them is that you can either change the oil or you can change the engine.
3k is probably excessive tbh. Not a bad thing, never gonna knock someone for being careful but you are probably best off 4/5k and less if you’re not driving hard/ in awful conditions. As for warming it up, you really don’t need to sit it for 10 minutes. Wait for the oil pressure to reach a suitable level and drive off. Much more effective that way, just drive conservatively, no lugging it and no high load/revs. And you’ll be totally fine
@@ryanclarke4448 i happen to disagree with you. I drove an engine to 200,000 miles. I drove it hard for 15 years. Weekly redlines was the norm. I changed the oil every 2,000 miles. After 15 years and 200, 000 miles of hard driving,, the internals from the timing chains to the cylinders, looked like the internals of a 120,000 miles engine. The cross hatches in the cylinder walls were still very visible and there was zero gunk anywhere in the engine. So, i have seen with my own two eyes what constant oil change does to an engine.
Geat informative video this is. Most wear happens from start up. Regiular oil changes every 5k or 6 months will allow you to drive the car on 5 min start up in morning in winter months. 1 min in summer months. All depends on frequent oil changes engine builder told me top of the range fully synthetic oils are done after 8k miles that should last 20k intervals. So I follow that.. I do 6k oil changes now or every six months. Engine is as clean as a whistle man.
I have a newer BMW X5 w/ turbo engine.. Every morning I warm it up for about 5mins, gives me enough time for my wake n bake 👨🏻🚀 ☁️ always change my oil around 5,6 xxx miles, nothing but 91 gas, from good ⛽️ stations.. and also I always turn off the auto/off engine mode, it’s annoying hearing the car shut off at the light🤣 good thing there’s a button to turn that mode off🥃 I think I’m doing pretty good 🥃
I lived within the arctic circle on the Norway Sweden border for many years we needed to run block heaters in our engines to keep the engine at above freezing even with a block heater I still had to run my old Saab until it warmed up I needed at least 20 to 30 minutes for some warmth to the heater core and defrost the inside of the front screen which was usually thick with ice. I would get out of bed unplug the heater and turn the car on outside the house then go back to bed for 30 minutes then have breakfast and then leave the house. letting a car run for 5 or 10 minutes was a luxury we never had.
Being English I'm quite adept at complaining about the weather, but if we had your weather I think all of our complain valves would explode. No matter what oil we used or how long we complained on idle.
0:24 and this is why im glad, when i have to be at work at stupid o clock (yknow early af), because bus driver.. since theres no traffic and the speed limit is low at my house, I can get away with moving at slow idle speed for awhile
In cold weather it's better to start the engine and go! Just don't accelerate hard. Oil will warm up and circulate faster when the car is moving. Don't idle the car till it gets warm.
@@BenoitWeiss-cg8pf i wouldnt say immediately, sometimes when starting the car, oil temp is around 10 degrees celsius, i wait for it to reach 20-25c before leaving my garage.
Another good thing to do is accelerate hard at least once a trip so you can keep the turbo waste gate moving. As a technician I replaced more turbos due to waste gates seizing shut then actual turbo failure. Trust me the engine is designed to handle the load and you will not be causing any damage to the engine or turbo. Just wait for the engine to be warmed up and let it cool before shutting it off.
I don't know about other manufacturers but my BMW has safeguards in place for these issues, it runs the oil pump until it cools done enough after I shut off the car
You should use Synthetic oil in all engines especially turbocharged engines. I drove a Chevy 2.o turbo for ten years with 23 psi of boost. It made 300 hp and never had an issue. The key is the oil as it is thing cold and will not carbon up in the turbo. Most sre water cooled today too so it is no issue.
You definitely must not thrash an engine after a cold start. However, idling a cold engine also causes wear. For example on a modern turbocharged diesel car, you're supposed to turn the key and let the glow plugs warm up the combustion chamber for 5-15 seconds. Afterwards, you start the engine and in less than 30 seconds, you drive away as lightly as possible (don't lug the engine or you'll wear your engine down and clog your DPF faster), gradually increasing the RPM. Letting it idle at 800-RPM for 5 minutes, not only is working a cold engine in RPM on which it is inefficient, but will also create local hotspots due to temperature imbalances. For a diesel car in temperatures around 15ºC Let the glow plugs warm up until their light on the dashboard turns off. Start the car and wait 15-30 sec Start driving and stick around 1000-1800RPM for the first minute or so, then slowly climb to 2000. If you have to go uphill, your engine should warm up a bit more beforehand so sometimes you just need to rev it.
I'm 57 and never thought i'd say this but old school. The list has things I have done all my life especially letting the car warm up. I also believed the higher gas cleaned the engine also? Mazda CX-5 I just bought with a turbo (1st ever turbo for me) My question is "fuel additives" like seafoam and that stuff you put in to get water out of the tank? Does this really work and clean out the engine? I'll look at the book about the gas I need..I am very peticular about my cars after all it's easier to pay little for things needed then face neglect and the price you pay for it.
Well, your doing pretty well with what your already doing, as the higher quality fuel usually contains more additives, and cleaners that you shouldn't need to add anymore. Water contamination is rare, but then there are additives that you can then use -- as I know it happened to me a few years ago on a vacation. I just bought a product to remove water from fuel injected engines, and it did work (although I had to have the local dealer reset the check engine light). One other point, if you see a fuel truck refilling the main tanks at a station, drive to another one, as that is the riskiest time to get gas as the pumper truck is tending to stir up any sediment in the underground fuel tanks.
....and use ceramic additives (hBN) ! These give your Turboshaft best emergency lubrication - my little 1.4 downsized NaturalGas (Methan) got now 160.000 miles with engine still running strong, hope it will make further 160.000
I got all of these tips recently from a friend when I asked him how my car which delivers 130bhp from a 1200cc 3-cylinder engine manages to achieve that - extreme supercharging.
For newer cars when you turn off your turbo engine it wouldn't usually go complete idle as I can always hear the engine/fan still running for a min or so before going completely silent. Wouldn't that be the manufacturer's mechanism to protect the turbe engines?
Cold start and accel...specially for diesel cars its big killer to not wait engine oil get hot. Me in winter i start engine and go remove snow from car and clean windows(its 5-10 mins process it helps engine gets hot without dmg)and after that slowly drive. Ofcourse cool engine after long drive make sense.
I think the main ones are Start and wait till the revs drop, drive lightly for the first 5 mins and keep the revs and Acceleration light, and cooling down time City driving I always give it a full main before switching off gives enough to check ya phone etc And Highway long trips 2 mins before switching off These are just tips my mechanic gave me 8 years a go
1.) No. You do not need to wait 2 to 5 minutes for your engine to "warm up." That's silly. Stay out of boost until you reach optimal operating temperature. Granted, I wouldn't recommend starting and just going. 30 seconds to let the motor get base lube moving, and then you can indeed go without worry provided you don't hammer on the accelerator before your oil is at op temp. Once you reach 3k RPMs, shift. Or, if your car is an automatic, just don't romp on it. 2.) Older turbocharged models, absolutely, yes. Good Fuel is critical. Conversely, newer turbocharged models actually can take 87 octane and will only suffer from a lack of performance. The ECU will adjust to the lower octane fuel in newer (2018+ IICR) cars. As the man said, check your owner's manual to know for sure. 3.) This one has been hands down one of the dumbest, of not the dumbest thing automotive manufacturers have developed. Even on an N/A vehicle, the auto stop systems can be troublesome. In a similar vein, the cylinder shutdown on V6s and V8s is just as dumb. Turn. It. Off. Thankfully, my vehicle isn't equipped with any of that Tom foolery. 4.) Provided you haven't driven for 5 minutes after the thruway session, yes. Be real for a moment. If you somehow live right off the exit of the thruway, yeah, maybe let the car idle for a moment post boost laden romp. However, if you're like the majority, you don't and will inherently cool it down driving the sidestreets afterwards. Provided you don't drive like a lunatic inside the city anyway. Although, if it's a grocery run, the unload sesh will be more than sufficient to cool that spinny snail of yours. 5.) 100% YES!!! Oil changes are essential to a turbocharged motor's health. I stick to 3k. No more. Even N/A motors shouldn't follow that insane 10k full synthetic oil change interval. Well, unless 70%+ are thruway miles. If you're around 60/40 in the highway/city ratio, or any ratio that increases the city time over highway, stay the Hell away from the 10k interval. 5k. Be safe. Oil is cheap when compared to a rebuild or short block swap.
Cylinder deactivation is just stupid quite frankly lol. Why's that a thing when piston engines are meant to fire and run on all cylinders at all times?
I really believe in these principles and practice them daily. Warm up and cool down periods are crucial for turbo lifespan. I even keep a block heater plugged in year round with a thermostat.
All excellent points. Have a 2012 3.5L turbo F-150 with over 300K. The waste gates froze up around 200K but the vehicle still runs good, light on the pedal and no check engine light. I follow the 5 steps religiously. If you plan to keep the vehicle over 100K, get the extended warranty on the powertrain to at least 125K. I had a turbo coolant leak at 105K and warranty paid for itself. Will I buy another truck with a turbo engine? Hell no!
I drive an Opel Astra J 1.4 Turbo and always wait for the engine to lower the revs before pulling away, AND never accelerate hard until the engine temp shows 90 degrees Celsius. After some hard driving, I tend to drive slower and "off boost" which is below 1700RPM for about 5 minutes to let the intercooler and fan do their thing.
That's some great advice there !.....I've one more : Limit the use of a turbo car in hot / humid conditions ( summer time basically ). The turbo will be sucking in hot air , the intercooler will struggle to cool said air , the ECU will try to balance things , but hp / performance is really reduced , which is why during the heat of a summers day , many turbo cars you will see parked up as they really don't like hot conditions. TOO MUCH HEAT !
Great tips for non-turbo engines too. I drive a new toyota rav4, I change oil every 5k miles of mostly hwy or 3k miles of mostly city driving in Az. The Toyota service guy keeps telling me that this isn't needed, which is odd for a dealer shop since I am paying for extra oil changes not covered by Toyota care.
Changing Oil every 3500 to 5000 miles? Every 5600 to 8000 km???? That may be recommendable with non-synthetic oil! Synthetic oil lasts easily 15000 km (9300 miles)! I bring my car (Mazda 6 Wagon, 2,2 liter R4 bi-turbo Diesel) to an inspection (including oil change) once per year, just when dashboard says it is time for that. And my car is running with no issues at all, despite having some 212000 km on the clock.
Hey i’m from the Netherlands and i drive a 2016 BMW 218i active tourer with an 1.5 3cilinder turbo engine. With an automatic transmission. ( this car is not sold in america) It got a start-stop system. And at every stopping light i use it. Only not in heavy traffic with allot of stop and go, that i turn the system off. And the bmw dealership where i bought it told me that it needs oil changes every 18000 kilometers or 2 years (normaly it’s 10.000 or 1 year). They said it’s normal for this car.
zulke motoren worden alleen maar gemaakt om emissie-eisen van de eu en tegelijkertijd bespaart het wat gewicht en wegenbelasting. Goed zijn zulke motoren niet: uit een kleine motor wordt dmv een turbo het benodigde vermogen geperst om al dat gewicht vlot te verplaatsen. Het lijdt enorm hiervan. Ik zou in ieder geval de olieverversingen halveren! Dus 10.000 km max. Vooral omdat je een turbo hebt, de smering is ontzettend belangrijk en de olie wordt pikzwart en verliest veel eigenschappen. De olie gaat ook nog door zeer nauwe ruimtes en door het te verversen inclusief filter haal je veel verontreiniging er uit.
Where's the one for diesels? Also, why isn't it better to drive off very gently, i.e. with as low revs as necessary, as soon as possible after start up, rather than needlessly idling under no load (as I thought we'd always been told was best)?
They are a stupid idea anyway. They do nothing for the environment. You do much more for our environment switching from animal farmed derived foods to whole foods.
The 1st one goes against all modern car manuals that I know. Ride it gently after you start but don't let it idling. Riding it gently will actually warm the engine up faster. At least that's what the manuals recommended.
How should you drive a plug-in hybrid turbo engine? The management system of the car does exact the opposite. It drives away electric and when power is needed thr cold engine kicks in. When breaking on the highway, the hot engine stops and energy is recovered for the battery. So, is it killing itself. Just asking for a friend…
I thought that manufacturers had figured out the part where you need to idle your car after highway or high load driving by now? Up to what year models does this apply as they don’t warn you about this (anymore) in the owner’s manuals?
i was always told to never, ever, instantly drive a car (or any motorized vehicle) right after starting it. Except when it's really cold weather though. Because the oil is typically so thick at those times that the pump struggles to suck it up and circulate through the engine. In order to help it a little. Idle for around 30 seconds, then rev the engine just a little bit for a a minute or so, and than let it idle for rest of those 2-5 minutes. But that's only for specific circumstances.
That's a good conversation starter. More info on working temperature could be mentioned and effect this has on stop/start wouldn't hurt. Most stop/start systems only engage after the engine has warmed through anyway. So leave them on to save gas. For the most part stop/start systems work well and save you money when the engine is doing little more than idling in urban traffic. But yeah, they can be a problem if you just pull in off the motorway or other high load driving. Turbos are kind of like the canary in the coal mine. Truth is poorly implemented stop /start systems can eventually give trouble to several areas in the engine, especially diesels.
Thanks for these tips! Most of them i am already doing but i do shut down the engine straight away when i'm home but i make sure that i didn't make to much rpm's when i'm almost home. That helps a bit to right? But the best thing is to wait for 30sec when it's parked? =) Edit: I'm driving a Focus RS MK3
High stress rides I agree, bit when you do High way drives, you really don't need to wait for it to cool off. With a diesel engine or if you are in sport plus modus then yes.
I have a 2018 accord 1.5t and I try to be very easy on the car after I first start it up especially when it’s hot outside. I don’t warm it up that much unless it’s really cold out and I use 91 octane since 87 really is too low IMO as what Honda says you can.
here in Europe we dont have low octane fuel like the US we only get 95 97 or 99 octane E5 or E10 fuel, I would never drive a Honda with a 1.5t engine on anything lower than 95 you will be liable to a blown head gasket and mechanical wear as well as oil dilution , I have a 2020 CRV with the 1.5 engine Honda Europe state in the manufacturer handbook never to use below 95 octane rated fuel it even says that inside the fuel filler cap 95 or above I cannot understand why Honda US would say 91 octane fuel would be acceptable when in Europe they no less than 95 thats a mystery I am thinking that is why Honda has so many engine failures in the US.
My 2011 volvo c70 always idles for at least 30 seconds after I stop it as I constantly check my coolant cuz its a volvo and thats the only thing thatll internally destroy it.
Good lord! I just want to drive my car! I don't want to have to always be thinking about "babying" my turbo charger all the time. Right now we have 3 older normally aspirated cars. Most newer cars are now turbocharged. When we need a new car, I feel like I'm going to have to really look hard to try to find a car without a turbo in it so I don't have to worry about my car's engine all the time.🙄
Best advice. And you can drive your turbo diesel engine car hard. Change the oil and filter very 8 months or 6k which every comes first Just allow 3 min warm up in the morning. It's the manufacturers longer oil change intervals of 20k destroying everything. Every 6k or 8 months Turbi will last then.
Don't go hard on ANY cold engine. But don't sit for 10min warming it up. Just drive away once oil pressure up...itll heat quicker driving than sitting.
I'm curious to know - don't some transmissions also need a moment to get up to temp/pressure? Like you're supposed to load the transmission gently and let it rev up also? And I'm sure someone can also comment on tires warming up, giving suspension a little time to gain a little elasticity - maybe not strictly from a racing perspective. Something everyone can apply in a daily driving situation in terms of the other components of a car or even a motorcycle.
yeah this is what i thought too i just take it super steady , the blue engine cool light soon goes out
@@msreedaran89every fluid separating metal from more metal has a warm up time
@@msreedaran89 To warm up an automatic transmission put in neutral not park. Trust me on this as I learned the hard way in cold WI winters and from a colleague who had lived in Alaska. Neutral activates the circulation pump whereas park doesn't.
This man knows
I drive a BMW with a turbo diesel. I always drive slowly for about 5 minutes keeping PRMs low, and never go wide open throttle until the engine is at full operating temperature. This formula has worked well for me on numerous European turbocharged cars over the years.
New BMWs preheat the engine alone
Most engines cold start to a fast idle (~1500rpm).
Good rule of thumb is to wait until it idles down (~750rpm) to begin driving if you have a turbo.
As the video states, this only takes 1-2 min. A bit longer in freezing temps.
I've never owned any vehicle with a turbo. It might be nice for a car to automatically bypass the turbo until it gets up to temp - maybe not even turn it on if the drive is short enough. Maybe a little light on the dash next to a turbo gauge that indicates whether it's up to temp so you know that the beans are ready to go? I know... extra stuff that adds cost and maintenance items, but if someone already wanted a turbo instead of NA 🤷🏼♂️
@@msreedaran89 that would be nice to have. But in lieu of, staying out of boost on short trips/until the engine is up to operating temp is the next best solution imo
Truth. Warm up cycle we call it here
Mostly not enough time, so the solution is to wait at least 10 seconds before you hit the clutch and gas pedal. But also in one minute a heated Turbine just Won't cool down, Especially in the hot summer days. It takes at least 10-15 minutes if outside is warm, to cool down the Turbine .
owned a solstice gxp for 4 years. this is me everyday haha.
I brought a Sierra Cosworth 3 door brand new in 1987. I used to drive it hard at night, then pull over lift the bonnet and watch the turbo and down pipe glowing. The heat was intense. Awesome. True story!
All of these recommendations apply to N/A as well as forced induction engines! Also, instead of idling a "cold" engine for 5 min, it's better to drive it EASY after about 30sec of run time. Prolonged idling of a cold engine results in a much longer warm up time. An engine under load warms up faster, getting rid of crankcase condensation more quickly, which is a GOOD thing. You are RIGHT about the "start-stop" systems causing accelerated wear of engine and related components. Not worth the 2mpg that you "save" at the pump!
Prolonged idling and then saying 30 seconds, lol.
At least a minute.
RPM'S will drop from cca 1400 down to 700-750.
It also helps with the timing belt being adjusted and run properly being taking off and putting a load on a car.
To avoid turbo trouble, i bought a non turbo port injected car😊 regardless, i always turn off start/stop system and i use premium 98 octane gas with no ethanol. And change oil every 5.000 km.
Smart move! Naturally Aspirated engines can be less hassle. Turning off the start/stop, using premium fuel, and regular oil changes are great practices for engine longevity. Sounds like you’re taking excellent care of your car! Thanks for sharing!!
@@HonestMechanicChannelthank you, i do my best. And i have learned by doing and or failing. So now i know more about what can be better in car maintainance. For example i bought a gdi without knowing the drawbacks, i learned it the hard way so now i stick to port injection. Also have a manual transmission, less complicated and fewer things can go wrong. Also i now went back to timingbelt, after i learned the hard way that chains dont last forever, and are more work replacing than a belt. So im better off replacing a belt every 6 years.
Though it’s worth noting unless your engine is high compression and needs more octane in the fuel, higher octane fuel has zero benefit for your engine. It doesn’t produce more power, and it isn’t any cleaner than 87 octane. Octane is only needed to prevent pre combustion in a high compress engine. Unless you know something don’t, that’s what all research I’ve seen on the subject says.
Correct. People have this crazy idea that high octane fuel makes the car go better or faster or that it cleans the engine. Octane ratings have nothing to do with either of those things. Unless the car manufacturers dictates higher octane fuel then it's a waste of money. Octane is the fuels ability to withstand pre-ignition or knock meaning the fuel is combusting as the piston is trying to move upwards or at the wrong time.@@LogainTheHumane
If you live in europe your " non turbo and not Direct injection"" means a garbage 80 hp city car at best and if somehow you managed an actual NA car with over 150hp it won't be that fuel efficient since it's probably older or s SUV ( but i agree that can change based on drive styles and a turbo can be worse efficiency wise).
As much as i understand that you care a lot about your engine, this sounds like a "too much" , most people can't and won't change their oil themselfes every 5k km, hell, they don't know even the basics of a turbo engine.
I strongly believe that if you car is decent and it's not a shit design you should be able to change oil every 10k km-6k miles/once a year based on what comes first without issues ( which was standard and now it's even less of what manufacturers says) in the long run.
It also depends on how you use your car, if you drive it gently HOME/Work and sometimes have a little fun it's a thing, if you beat the shit out of it i agree that your oil changes must be done more frequently.
As a Car Mechanic I can approve that all the Facts are True
Had too many Blown Turbo's from Customers
All good, in fact, essential advice. I’ve followed this behaviour and my 30-year Cruiser is still running strong.
Excellent video, priceless advice!!! I have 2 Audis, my wife’s Q5 and mine is a modified A5. I always do exactly what is in this video and zero issues!!!
I just bought an A5 and it's my first Audi! Have had Volkswagen in the past and never had problems but I never skipped oil changes and took good care of them so that is probably why.
@@ramses8847 Same exact path here. Bought my first car at 19 which was a 2017 Volkswagon Jetta Tsi. Just bought my 2nd car at 21, 2018 Audi S5. The thing is a beast!!
Thought this might be one of those BS youtoob vids, but it's not - every single item is solid advise, (coming from a turbo owner.) Thanks for the vid.
I never drive away immediately and I never drive off with a lot of throttle. And I always use premium gas and I always follow the manufacturer's maintenance instructions.
Never had any engine trouble in over 30 years.
I bet you was an Eagle Scout too.
I have a 2016 Subaru Forester xt, 2.0 turbo, just turned 282,000 miles and runs like the day I bought it. I change oil every 4000 miles and have had no problems.
That’s absolutely great information. I have a Corolla GR 300HP 3 Cylinder Turbo running 26 PSI boost. I change my oil every 2500 miles. Plus I idle the car for 2 to 3 minutes before turning off, also when car is warming up I’m easy on the car until the oil is 190f. Simple small things can make a huge difference. Plus I would take it a step further with direct injection turbocharged car it’s very important to avoid short trips for fuel delusion not to occur and make sure you get your engine to operating temperature for minimum of 15 minutes.
make sure you dont exceed 85 miles an hour too, that'll keep the warranty and stop random fires from starting
@@jdkrey6326😂 good one. Toyota warranty = no warranty.
@@jdkrey6326 1 car out of thousands no a big deal. Mine is awesome. This fire thing is completely overblown!
Very good advice. I have a MINI JCW R56 and was told to let it warm up for a few mins before driving off and let it cool down a min or so before you turn off your engine.
2 min warm up before driving in the morning.
15 seconds at idle before turning off.
Works for me.. 22 year old turbo diesel saab 9 5 2.2 tid engine.
Engine is mint
I like this video! Only things I would add on for people to watch out for is some cars have auxiliary water pumps for the turbo so unless you were driving it like a race car…you don’t HAVE to wait before shutting off, but you shouldn’t immediately shut off after parking. Another thing is for a “cold engine” it’s far safer to wait for the high idle cold start programmed into your car to idle down (takes 30 seconds to a minute on most turbo cars) and then start driving immediately. Your engine won’t warm up enough in super cold weather so you have to drive it, BUT you have to try to stay out of boost and drive it easily without accelerating hard or hitting high rpms and a good synthetic oil won’t be as thick as molasses anyways. This is the safest way to warm up the oil and engine especially since once the car idles down there’s not enough oil pressure to completely lube the turbo and idling for a while wears out your piston rings which leads to problems of excessively burnt oil, lower power and worse gas mileage.
I used to drive a Mercedes truck, a sticker in the screen said. Do not demand full engine power until engine is fully warmed up. Good advise I think and have always remembered it.
3:09 The result is not just oil coking. The turbine shaft is still spinning at a high speed immediately after driving, so when you quickly shut off the engine, those turbine shaft bearings/bushings have zero oil pressure to lubricate and cool them. The same goes for revving the engine at a car show to impress your friends, then shutting it off.
I run my 2001 Crown Athlete VX, 1jz vvti on super unleaded and change oil and filter every 3k to 5k miles.
Also fitted an oil temp and pressure gauge. Also has a turbo timer that was fitted back in Japan.
Had no issues in 5 years I've owned it
Regular oil changes.
Every 5k.
First start of the day.
I. Minute idle.
Drive on but don't rev over 3k rpm for the first 3 mins as most wear happens on start up.
Keep oil turbo feed pipe clean also.
Good to go😊
Most wear actually happens if you don’t fill your oil filter. It takes 5 seconds for the oil the pressurize when you start the car after changing the oil and not filling the oil filter. After the engine fills the oil filter it takes less than a second for the oil to pressurize significantly decreasing wear. It’s important to fill the oil filter even if it’s mounted at the side and not upwards. Use the purlator boss filter as it prevents the oil to seep down if side mounted.
@@2seep This barely does any damage unless you floor it immediately after the first start changing the oil. RPM and combustion pressure is much lower at idle than when driving and an extra 4 seconds of cold-start wear every 4000 miles adds an infinitesimal amount compared to normal use.
Getting a good filter with a silicone anti-drainback valve is far more important.
@@2seepwhat if your oil Filter is on top? 😂 no but Most oil Filters for modern Cars are small and oil circulates quickly so there is no need. takes about 5 secs to get it through the Filter in the Engine After an oil change
I would add avoid lugging the engine i.e. pulling hard from low revs.
Whats lugging engine can you give me a example??
@@totov7673 giving a high demand when the engine rpms are low (~1200 rpm), like going up a steep hill for example.
Exactly. Many people do that to save fuel and it's not only bad for the engine, but for clutch, engine mounts and gearbox mounts as well.
On a scale of 1-10 how much does synthetic oil (which doesn't get thick as fast as real oil does in freezing conditions) help with the first point about not going ham right away after starting?
On the second point, how much do fuel additives designed to increase octane counteract the bad of lower grade fuel? I usually use premium but occasionally I'll use regular with an octane booster/fuel additive.
Synthetic oil does help especially the good quality GTL(gas to liquid) Fuel additives can help if you have fuel injectors since they keep your injectors clean.
well said. having had turbo cars since a 90 saab 900 turbo I have always followed these rules. Engine driven Superchargers are less of an issue since they do not share oil with the engine. Then standard let the engine oil get moving practices are in effect.
Good advice. Most engine wear takes place in the first 10 seconds after start, in addition to what is mentioned about the turbo.
Quality of fuel is even more important since Crankcase oil vapour is re-routed into the engine through the intake system, which lowers the effective octane rating as well as gumming up the throttle body and intake ports.
For me its 3 things:
1) change oil every 7-8000km
2) make sure your air intake isnt dirty
3) drive it. Dont let it sit and dont drive it only slow.
Talk about oil change, pick the thickest grade oil the manufacturer recommends.
Example 0W-40
start stop is the dumbest thing auto makers every came up with , I wouldn't have a car with it
Why?
the reason is the wltp test which measures the Gases coming out the car. and in the test theres a stopping phase every now and then. if the engine doesnt run there the manufacturers pay less for the co2 emissions and can get their cars in the market more easyly
@@gideonighodalo3476IMO two reasons. #1, the number of duty cycles on the starter. It will wear out sooner rather than later. #2, and most important, engines get their vast majority of wear and tear during startup. There is zero oil pressure when an engine is not running. Starting your engine every time you resume motion after a stop adds a huge amount of wear and tear.
A hybrid vehicle has this system.
it's crap, but it's far from the dumbest thing. maybe in the top 5.
Great video. Thanks for posting
As you outlined its just a few basic things that need to be done CONSISTENTLY.... every day that ensures longevity of the engines
I just happened to stumble upon this video on youtube, but I have always been following the 20-10-20 rule which is as follows
1) After starting the engine, idle it for 20 seconds
2) Drive gently for the first 10 minutes ( irrespective of your terrain) so that the engine and other parts warm up evenly
3) after you return to your parking, ( I mean any parking) before shutting down the engine, idle it for 20 seconds
I have personally seen benefits such as.... my cars being well below emission levels( I do periodic emission tests ) and the engines would stay refined, besides, I get decent mileage ( I use the manufacturer advised octane rated fuel only) as the parts work efficiently
Again, thanks for sharing, happy motoring !!!
There is a lot of information that simply isn’t given here! Modern turbo charged engines are almost always cooled with coolant so you don’t need to let them idle on shutdown! Some manufacturers have direct injected turbo engines so you can in fact run them with 89 octane! This video refers to older technology, not newer turbo charged engines! I recommend your owners manual over a TH-cam video generalization of a specific type of motor!
Wrong I have a pretty new 2018 basic VW golf sport fwd 1.8T I open gas cap it says recomended 91. So Im assuming if I put 89 octain its not a great idea.
@@totov7673It all depends on the manufacturer. My 23 Silverado turbo runs on reg 87. Most manufacturers are using water/oil cooled turbos which helps cool down the turbos after the engine is shut off. Otherwise the start/stop systems would destroy them.
There is a difference between Octane number in US and RON that is used by the rest of the world. 87 reg in US equals RON91 , 91 premium in US equals to RON95 .
Good info. I have a 2008 Acura RDX turbo tech with 61k miles and follow this advice. Only major issue so far was leaking engine gasket at 50K miles….effin expensive.
Always use a top-quality fuel that meets TOP TIER GAS standards like Shell or Marathon. AAA recommends using a Top Tier Gas.
There is no need to let a modern engine idle for any length of time from a cold start. It is perfectly safe to start driving immediately provided you use gentle acceleration until everything is up to normal operating temperature. However I completely agree the worst thing you can do is to accelerate hard with a cold engine.
My first car had a turbo engine. From the get-go, without any instructions, I followed all 5 of these steps correctly. Now I understand why I've never had an issue with my turbo engine. Meanwhile, some of my buddies have had their turbo fans explode or stop working altogether.
Everything in the video is exactly what my dad taught me, excellent work!
Great video!
This past summer, I purchased a TLX with the 2.0 Turbo. (I wanted the V-6 Turbo but it was hard enough trying to come by the one I bought and it was the only one on the lot.) This is my 1st ever vehicle with a turbocharger. However, I practice the same thing with my 2 other vehicles and they both have normally aspirated V-6 engines in them, but the 2019 has a gasoline direct injection engine; the 2003 does not.
Idling your car for 2-5 monutes before driving is just wasting fuel. Nobody in their right mind would use lots of revs until and engine is cold but immediately driving and stick to 2k until the oil guage moves is fine and doesn't waste 2-5 minutes of fuel sitting at 1000rpm.
Well, nobody would do that, except @ikeudechukwu5018 😂
This is not true at all. 5 minutes idling takes 20 times less fuel instead of driveing the car direct from start atleast in cold conditions. Idling 5 minutes lowers the fuel consumpion because the engine has gained temperature.
@ninec5257 the engine heatens very slowly when idling....after cold start 5 - 15 secs idling is okay to get oil pressure up....then carefully reving when driving until oil has 80°
so many cars don't bother with any kind of oil gauge anymore, it's sad.
Just get in and drive it is the easiest thing to do.
After engine start in cold condition I regularly wait until the idle RPM drops down to around 800rpm. Works fine for me since years. And I only hit the pedal hard once water and oil temp is up and in green band.
Don’t sit when it’s cold. Let the oil move throughout for 10-30 seconds depending on how cold it is, then set off VERY VERY GINGERLY until oil temps are above 150°F or so, or running normal coolant temp for a few minutes when you don’t have an oil temp readout.
My 2020 Veloster N has almost 100,000 miles and doesn’t have any engine issues whatsoever, including almost no catch can contents and almost zero oil consumption (I only say almost because it’s immeasurable and likely still present). It’s been tuned on a JB4 (MAP2) for 50,000 of those miles. Just took it out in 24°F weather and followed my exact words here.
A couple of months ago, the turbo of my Golf blew up because of a cold start and too much rev of immediate acceleration after a 200 m. It wasn't cheap, new parts for the engine, new turbo etc. I'm lucky thet it happened close to my home so I managed to pull over safely. So now I'm more careful.
I have been practicing these advice for more than 25 years. I never drive off without letting my car warm up for about 10 minutes. I only use 93 octane on all my cars. Based on my direct experience, I can conclude that 93 octane protects internal parts of any engine because it is so stable and as such it really prevents unstable explosions in the pistons. I stopped using 87 and 89 0ctane about 15 years ago. And, 93 octane actually burns slower and in a more stable fashion than 87 octane. Finally, I only do 3,000 miles oil changes. Cleaner oil cools the engine too. People have told me that I waste money changing oil too soon. Well, my advice to them is that you can either change the oil or you can change the engine.
3k is probably excessive tbh. Not a bad thing, never gonna knock someone for being careful but you are probably best off 4/5k and less if you’re not driving hard/ in awful conditions. As for warming it up, you really don’t need to sit it for 10 minutes. Wait for the oil pressure to reach a suitable level and drive off. Much more effective that way, just drive conservatively, no lugging it and no high load/revs. And you’ll be totally fine
@@ryanclarke4448 i happen to disagree with you. I drove an engine to 200,000 miles. I drove it hard for 15 years. Weekly redlines was the norm. I changed the oil every 2,000 miles. After 15 years and 200, 000 miles of hard driving,, the internals from the timing chains to the cylinders, looked like the internals of a 120,000 miles engine. The cross hatches in the cylinder walls were still very visible and there was zero gunk anywhere in the engine. So, i have seen with my own two eyes what constant oil change does to an engine.
I was told to start engine and immediately drive very slow to get oil pressure up. That is in non turbo engines.
@@ryanclarke4448Not in my S63 BMW M6 V8 TT
Geat informative video this is.
Most wear happens from start up.
Regiular oil changes every 5k or 6 months will allow you to drive the car on
5 min start up in morning in winter months.
1 min in summer months.
All depends on frequent oil changes engine builder told me top of the range fully synthetic oils are done after 8k miles that should last 20k intervals.
So I follow that.. I do 6k oil changes now or every six months.
Engine is as clean as a whistle man.
I have a newer BMW X5 w/ turbo engine.. Every morning I warm it up for about 5mins, gives me enough time for my wake n bake 👨🏻🚀 ☁️ always change my oil around 5,6 xxx miles, nothing but 91 gas, from good ⛽️ stations.. and also I always turn off the auto/off engine mode, it’s annoying hearing the car shut off at the light🤣 good thing there’s a button to turn that mode off🥃
I think I’m doing pretty good 🥃
I lived within the arctic circle on the Norway Sweden border for many years we needed to run block heaters in our engines to keep the engine at above freezing even with a block heater I still had to run my old Saab until it warmed up I needed at least 20 to 30 minutes for some warmth to the heater core and defrost the inside of the front screen which was usually thick with ice. I would get out of bed unplug the heater and turn the car on outside the house then go back to bed for 30 minutes then have breakfast and then leave the house. letting a car run for 5 or 10 minutes was a luxury we never had.
Being English I'm quite adept at complaining about the weather, but if we had your weather I think all of our complain valves would explode. No matter what oil we used or how long we complained on idle.
0:24 and this is why im glad, when i have to be at work at stupid o clock (yknow early af), because bus driver.. since theres no traffic and the speed limit is low at my house, I can get away with moving at slow idle speed for awhile
In cold weather it's better to start the engine and go! Just don't accelerate hard. Oil will warm up and circulate faster when the car is moving. Don't idle the car till it gets warm.
I heard the same advice, start and immediately drive slow.
@@BenoitWeiss-cg8pf i wouldnt say immediately, sometimes when starting the car, oil temp is around 10 degrees celsius, i wait for it to reach 20-25c before leaving my garage.
number 6 give it all 4 weeks a blast. drive the car like it's build to be driven like that, HARD
True, at least 30 min of total driving, at least 10 min hard
Cold Start over, driving 5km and then go for it.... Works since my Golf2 16v, never got a Problem with a engine.
Another good thing to do is accelerate hard at least once a trip so you can keep the turbo waste gate moving. As a technician I replaced more turbos due to waste gates seizing shut then actual turbo failure. Trust me the engine is designed to handle the load and you will not be causing any damage to the engine or turbo. Just wait for the engine to be warmed up and let it cool before shutting it off.
I don't know about other manufacturers but my BMW has safeguards in place for these issues, it runs the oil pump until it cools done enough after I shut off the car
You should use Synthetic oil in all engines especially turbocharged engines.
I drove a Chevy 2.o turbo for ten years with 23 psi of boost. It made 300 hp and never had an issue.
The key is the oil as it is thing cold and will not carbon up in the turbo. Most sre water cooled today too so it is no issue.
You definitely must not thrash an engine after a cold start. However, idling a cold engine also causes wear. For example on a modern turbocharged diesel car, you're supposed to turn the key and let the glow plugs warm up the combustion chamber for 5-15 seconds. Afterwards, you start the engine and in less than 30 seconds, you drive away as lightly as possible (don't lug the engine or you'll wear your engine down and clog your DPF faster), gradually increasing the RPM. Letting it idle at 800-RPM for 5 minutes, not only is working a cold engine in RPM on which it is inefficient, but will also create local hotspots due to temperature imbalances.
For a diesel car in temperatures around 15ºC
Let the glow plugs warm up until their light on the dashboard turns off.
Start the car and wait 15-30 sec
Start driving and stick around 1000-1800RPM for the first minute or so, then slowly climb to 2000.
If you have to go uphill, your engine should warm up a bit more beforehand so sometimes you just need to rev it.
If you always drive with low rpms and easy with the gas pedal can you harm the engine/ turbo for not revving from time to time?
I'm 57 and never thought i'd say this but old school. The list has things I have done all my life especially letting the car warm up. I also believed the higher gas cleaned the engine also? Mazda CX-5 I just bought with a turbo (1st ever turbo for me) My question is "fuel additives" like seafoam and that stuff you put in to get water out of the tank? Does this really work and clean out the engine? I'll look at the book about the gas I need..I am very peticular about my cars after all it's easier to pay little for things needed then face neglect and the price you pay for it.
Well, your doing pretty well with what your already doing, as the higher quality fuel usually contains more additives, and cleaners that you shouldn't need to add anymore. Water contamination is rare, but then there are additives that you can then use -- as I know it happened to me a few years ago on a vacation. I just bought a product to remove water from fuel injected engines, and it did work (although I had to have the local dealer reset the check engine light). One other point, if you see a fuel truck refilling the main tanks at a station, drive to another one, as that is the riskiest time to get gas as the pumper truck is tending to stir up any sediment in the underground fuel tanks.
Glad to confirm I have good turbo habits.
Thank god i was doing everything right on my stage 1 B48… soon stage 2 so i guess i’ll have to keep doing it right
Great advice short and to the point. That’s how videos should be on TH-cam
....and use ceramic additives (hBN) ! These give your Turboshaft best emergency lubrication - my little 1.4 downsized NaturalGas (Methan) got now 160.000 miles with engine still running strong, hope it will make further 160.000
All good advice especially oil quality and changes.
Thank you!
I got all of these tips recently from a friend when I asked him how my car which delivers 130bhp from a 1200cc 3-cylinder engine manages to achieve that - extreme supercharging.
Don't check the 300 HP 3 piston engine from Toyota Corolla GR then ... or the 1600 cc F1 engines which have 850 HP
I am guessing you drive a Peugeot or and Opel with those modest Hp figures
Start/Stop is the norm on mild hybrids like the BMW M340i 2019 onwards, I think it's only disabled when you are in Sports modes.
true....i always disable the stop start on my car as it wears the starter motor too
For newer cars when you turn off your turbo engine it wouldn't usually go complete idle as I can always hear the engine/fan still running for a min or so before going completely silent. Wouldn't that be the manufacturer's mechanism to protect the turbe engines?
Cold start and accel...specially for diesel cars its big killer to not wait engine oil get hot.
Me in winter i start engine and go remove snow from car and clean windows(its 5-10 mins process it helps engine gets hot without dmg)and after that slowly drive.
Ofcourse cool engine after long drive make sense.
Is it usefull to wait a bit idle (15-20seconds) before driving away if I don't have turbo ? the temp where i live are 10°c winter and 30°c summer.
I think the main ones are
Start and wait till the revs drop, drive lightly for the first 5 mins and keep the revs and Acceleration light, and cooling down time
City driving I always give it a full main before switching off gives enough to check ya phone etc
And Highway long trips 2 mins before switching off
These are just tips my mechanic gave me 8 years a go
1.) No. You do not need to wait 2 to 5 minutes for your engine to "warm up." That's silly. Stay out of boost until you reach optimal operating temperature. Granted, I wouldn't recommend starting and just going. 30 seconds to let the motor get base lube moving, and then you can indeed go without worry provided you don't hammer on the accelerator before your oil is at op temp. Once you reach 3k RPMs, shift. Or, if your car is an automatic, just don't romp on it.
2.) Older turbocharged models, absolutely, yes. Good Fuel is critical. Conversely, newer turbocharged models actually can take 87 octane and will only suffer from a lack of performance. The ECU will adjust to the lower octane fuel in newer (2018+ IICR) cars. As the man said, check your owner's manual to know for sure.
3.) This one has been hands down one of the dumbest, of not the dumbest thing automotive manufacturers have developed. Even on an N/A vehicle, the auto stop systems can be troublesome. In a similar vein, the cylinder shutdown on V6s and V8s is just as dumb. Turn. It. Off. Thankfully, my vehicle isn't equipped with any of that Tom foolery.
4.) Provided you haven't driven for 5 minutes after the thruway session, yes. Be real for a moment. If you somehow live right off the exit of the thruway, yeah, maybe let the car idle for a moment post boost laden romp. However, if you're like the majority, you don't and will inherently cool it down driving the sidestreets afterwards. Provided you don't drive like a lunatic inside the city anyway. Although, if it's a grocery run, the unload sesh will be more than sufficient to cool that spinny snail of yours.
5.) 100% YES!!! Oil changes are essential to a turbocharged motor's health. I stick to 3k. No more. Even N/A motors shouldn't follow that insane 10k full synthetic oil change interval. Well, unless 70%+ are thruway miles. If you're around 60/40 in the highway/city ratio, or any ratio that increases the city time over highway, stay the Hell away from the 10k interval. 5k. Be safe. Oil is cheap when compared to a rebuild or short block swap.
Cylinder deactivation is just stupid quite frankly lol. Why's that a thing when piston engines are meant to fire and run on all cylinders at all times?
Couldn’t have said it better perfect video.
I really believe in these principles and practice them daily. Warm up and cool down periods are crucial for turbo lifespan. I even keep a block heater plugged in year round with a thermostat.
It’s stated on the car manual. Don’t go fast until the temperature indicator has reached 90°, then you can push the gas pedal
How do you determine what’s low or high quality fuel?
All excellent points. Have a 2012 3.5L turbo F-150 with over 300K. The waste gates froze up around 200K but the vehicle still runs good, light on the pedal and no check engine light. I follow the 5 steps religiously. If you plan to keep the vehicle over 100K, get the extended warranty on the powertrain to at least 125K. I had a turbo coolant leak at 105K and warranty paid for itself. Will I buy another truck with a turbo engine? Hell no!
Will this also apply for twincharge? To be precise the mk5 golf 1.4 140 hp
I drive an Opel Astra J 1.4 Turbo and always wait for the engine to lower the revs before pulling away, AND never accelerate hard until the engine temp shows 90 degrees Celsius. After some hard driving, I tend to drive slower and "off boost" which is below 1700RPM for about 5 minutes to let the intercooler and fan do their thing.
That's some great advice there !.....I've one more : Limit the use of a turbo car in hot / humid conditions ( summer time basically ). The turbo will be sucking in hot air , the intercooler will struggle to cool said air , the ECU will try to balance things , but hp / performance is really reduced , which is why during the heat of a summers day , many turbo cars you will see parked up as they really don't like hot conditions. TOO MUCH HEAT !
Great tips for non-turbo engines too. I drive a new toyota rav4, I change oil every 5k miles of mostly hwy or 3k miles of
mostly city driving in Az. The Toyota service guy keeps telling me that this isn't needed, which is odd for a dealer shop
since I am paying for extra oil changes not covered by Toyota care.
What about air filters?
Check/change more often as turbos put more air into the engine under more pressure?
Changing Oil every 3500 to 5000 miles? Every 5600 to 8000 km???? That may be recommendable with non-synthetic oil! Synthetic oil lasts easily 15000 km (9300 miles)! I bring my car (Mazda 6 Wagon, 2,2 liter R4 bi-turbo Diesel) to an inspection (including oil change) once per year, just when dashboard says it is time for that. And my car is running with no issues at all, despite having some 212000 km on the clock.
I change mine annually. October or November get it in so its got nice fresh oil for winter. Usually about 5k miles on mine
Hey i’m from the Netherlands and i drive a 2016 BMW 218i active tourer with an 1.5 3cilinder turbo engine.
With an automatic transmission. ( this car is not sold in america) It got a start-stop system. And at every stopping light i use it. Only not in heavy traffic with allot of stop and go, that i turn the system off. And the bmw dealership where i bought it told me that it needs oil changes every 18000 kilometers or 2 years (normaly it’s 10.000 or 1 year). They said it’s normal for this car.
zulke motoren worden alleen maar gemaakt om emissie-eisen van de eu en tegelijkertijd bespaart het wat gewicht en wegenbelasting. Goed zijn zulke motoren niet: uit een kleine motor wordt dmv een turbo het benodigde vermogen geperst om al dat gewicht vlot te verplaatsen. Het lijdt enorm hiervan. Ik zou in ieder geval de olieverversingen halveren! Dus 10.000 km max. Vooral omdat je een turbo hebt, de smering is ontzettend belangrijk en de olie wordt pikzwart en verliest veel eigenschappen. De olie gaat ook nog door zeer nauwe ruimtes en door het te verversen inclusief filter haal je veel verontreiniging er uit.
I need to send this to so many people
Changing engine air filter on time is also important for the longevity of a turbo.
Where's the one for diesels? Also, why isn't it better to drive off very gently, i.e. with as low revs as necessary, as soon as possible after start up, rather than needlessly idling under no load (as I thought we'd always been told was best)?
Every start/stop should be turned off even if you don't have turbo
They are a stupid idea anyway. They do nothing for the environment. You do much more for our environment switching from animal farmed derived foods to whole foods.
The 1st one goes against all modern car manuals that I know. Ride it gently after you start but don't let it idling. Riding it gently will actually warm the engine up faster. At least that's what the manuals recommended.
How should you drive a plug-in hybrid turbo engine? The management system of the car does exact the opposite. It drives away electric and when power is needed thr cold engine kicks in. When breaking on the highway, the hot engine stops and energy is recovered for the battery. So, is it killing itself. Just asking for a friend…
thats a good question
Thanks for the video. Don't modern cars account for lower octane fuel by automatically reducing HP at a given RPM?
I thought that manufacturers had figured out the part where you need to idle your car after highway or high load driving by now? Up to what year models does this apply as they don’t warn you about this (anymore) in the owner’s manuals?
i was always told to never, ever, instantly drive a car (or any motorized vehicle) right after starting it.
Except when it's really cold weather though. Because the oil is typically so thick at those times that the pump struggles to suck it up and circulate through the engine.
In order to help it a little. Idle for around 30 seconds, then rev the engine just a little bit for a a minute or so, and than let it idle for rest of those 2-5 minutes.
But that's only for specific circumstances.
That's a good conversation starter. More info on working temperature could be mentioned and effect this has on stop/start wouldn't hurt. Most stop/start systems only engage after the engine has warmed through anyway. So leave them on to save gas. For the most part stop/start systems work well and save you money when the engine is doing little more than idling in urban traffic. But yeah, they can be a problem if you just pull in off the motorway or other high load driving. Turbos are kind of like the canary in the coal mine. Truth is poorly implemented stop /start systems can eventually give trouble to several areas in the engine, especially diesels.
Thanks for these tips! Most of them i am already doing but i do shut down the engine straight away when i'm home but i make sure that i didn't make to much rpm's when i'm almost home. That helps a bit to right? But the best thing is to wait for 30sec when it's parked? =) Edit: I'm driving a Focus RS MK3
High stress rides I agree, bit when you do High way drives, you really don't need to wait for it to cool off. With a diesel engine or if you are in sport plus modus then yes.
Relatively new engines still circulate oil for several minutes after the ignition is turned off, so there is no need to cool the turbocharger first.
I have a 2018 accord 1.5t and I try to be very easy on the car after I first start it up especially when it’s hot outside. I don’t warm it up that much unless it’s really cold out and I use 91 octane since 87 really is too low IMO as what Honda says you can.
here in Europe we dont have low octane fuel like the US we only get 95 97 or 99 octane E5 or E10 fuel, I would never drive a Honda with a 1.5t engine on anything lower than 95 you will be liable to a blown head gasket and mechanical wear as well as oil dilution , I have a 2020 CRV with the 1.5 engine Honda Europe state in the manufacturer handbook never to use below 95 octane rated fuel it even says that inside the fuel filler cap 95 or above I cannot understand why Honda US would say 91 octane fuel would be acceptable when in Europe they no less than 95 thats a mystery I am thinking that is why Honda has so many engine failures in the US.
No need to warm Engine by idling for 2 minutes. Driving the car at low rpm is the best way to warm it up. Just keep it below 2k rpm and you'll be fine
The cool down is important, especially after going up a mountain on a hot day
My 2011 volvo c70 always idles for at least 30 seconds after I stop it as I constantly check my coolant cuz its a volvo and thats the only thing thatll internally destroy it.
Just Plain Awesome Info!!!!!
Good lord!
I just want to drive my car! I don't want to have to always be thinking about "babying" my turbo charger all the time. Right now we have 3 older normally aspirated cars. Most newer cars are now turbocharged. When we need a new car, I feel like I'm going to have to really look hard to try to find a car without a turbo in it so I don't have to worry about my car's engine all the time.🙄
Best advice.
And you can drive your turbo diesel engine car hard.
Change the oil and filter very 8 months or 6k which every comes first
Just allow 3 min warm up in the morning.
It's the manufacturers longer oil change intervals of 20k destroying everything.
Every 6k or 8 months
Turbi will last then.
Always make sure my oil temperature is at normal. Just a few miles . 4 in the summer and about 6 in the summer.
and how long in the summer?
After highway or highspeed drive i normally let the car iddle for couple minutes wait for the rpm drop below 1000rpm before turning off
Back in the days, I had turbo timers for all of my Turbo Cars.
An nice presentation indeed! I've subscribed to your channel right away for more useful tips.
Thank you. Glad you liked the video! Hope you find my other content helpful.