The voiceover and the footage was wonderful to see, hope you find a way to stay warm! Glad to see everything coming along so well man. Blessings upon the next projects for progress and glorious action!
If he doesn't manage to set a new record it won't be through lack of trying that's for sure, his journey through all the new processes has been steep & arduous but he's stuck with it & I personally think he'll be successful or I certainly hope so anyway :-)
Glad to see you're becoming a decent machinist! A little thing I like to do for a touch off is where I take a gauge block (maybe 10mm), put the tool slightly lower than a 10mm hight and just slowly move it up and push gently on the block until it snuggly slides between the stock and the tool. Then of course subtract the 10mm offset. That way you never accidentally plunge too far and crack the tool or anything.
I'd definitely suggest getting a magnetic solenoid to open that valve instead of a regular electric linear actuator as the magnetic solenoid will open far faster. One easy source would be electric door poppers. Could you imagine if Burt Munro was still alive today, I'm sure he'd be fighting with the computer machining too ;P I'd suggest sanding and polishing the valve blade so that it moves smoother too.
An Aprilia RS125 exhaust valve solonoid would be perfect. They are pretty powerful as they pull through a cable and also drag the coked up gummy with oil blade. Should be perfect for this. If you get one be sure to put an inverse diode, maybe 1N4007 across the coil to save any spikes from killing your electronics👍
You might not want to open it too fast also. In a fourstroke engine you would have big problems setting up fueltable for instant opening. And i figure a twostroke should have the same problem.
@M Bacon or even a metal gear RC servo. Fully tunable then. They do get jittery around high energy ignitions so a metal one and screening the lead would stop that.
You probably know this, but I hadn't heard it mentioned yet. For cutting aluminum - if you switch to a 2-flute cutter you'll get a much nicer finish. Adds less heat into the local area, so it keeps the chip from micro welding onto the surface. Also - mineral spirits is cheaper than WD-40 and makes for a very nice cutting agent for aluminum machining. Keep it coming! Love the videos.
I'm a machinist, your learning ability on that mill is astonishing! and by the way, I think that it is a good thing to be a bit afraid of your milling, It's a powerfull tool that can ruin your day pretty fast. Good job my friend, You'll succeed I'm sure.
When using high speed steel drills: Vc=25m/min and Fz 0.2mm Vc is the cutting speed of hss Fz is the feed rate per tooth per revolution (ur using a 2 flute drill, in that case ignore the ''per tooth'' part. Not for solid drills) Use this formula to calculate rev/min: N=Vc X 1000 / pi X Diametertool When u get te rpm then multiply by the Rev per tooth u want to get the desired feed rate in mm/min Example: Dia 16 hss drill: VcX1000/PiXd = 25000/(3.14x16)= 497 rev/min 497x0.2= 99mm/min
I do like the voiceover. I know it takes more time to do, but it helps keep my attention longer. It's also interesting to have an insight into your thought process.
Taking on something that has problems and fault finding and fixing those problems gives you a much greater understanding of the machine than you would of had if it just worked as it should 🙌
@@2STROKESTUFFING keep on doing what you're doing 🙌 I've been following your content for around 2 years or more now and this is by far your most technical encounter (that I've seen)
Spring detent in the side of the side to keep it open and closed and you’re golden great job mate and the voice over was good to keep them coming mate great vid
Its definitely good to go slow at first while machining!! You will slowly get tired of how long it takes and start REALLY finding the sweet spots of your feeds and speeds for your tools! It just takes time!!
Clamp your part directly to the table. On a larger sub plate to protect the table, of course. It will have more support and chatter less, improving your finishes and tolerances. We always kept an aluminum sub plate for that purpose at least an inch thick. Drill and counter bore 4 holes aligned with the T - slots, so you can bolt it to the table using allen bolts and t-nuts. At this point you can take light cuts with a large diameter cutter( fly cutter 4 " or more ) to make sure it's flat and true. Then flip over the plate and finish the other side. You can use two sided tape to hold it down, your cuts should be .005 deep only so it should hold fine. Just clean and wipe down the area you're going to use tape on with alcohol really good so the tape sticks properly. You can drill and tap a series of holes for future clamping purposes, or just put 'em where you need them as you need them...
Engineers little black book is a good cheap ready reference book with drill speed for different size drill bits and lots of other ready reference stuff.
Really awesome stuff!! I am amazed at how quickly you are learning your cnc mill. Especially when I know you don't have that much time to work on it. Great drive and determination.
If your are looking for cutting parameters, feedrates etc. In germany we use the " Tabellenbuch Metall" it has everything you need to know about Turning, milling, Boring etc. in it and even more. But i dont know if There is an english Version of it and please pardon my ability to write in english. Greetings from germany
Fusion has a speeds and feeds calculator. That will help with drilling. Just set your tool path in manufacturing environment and check the tool path metrics
When adaptive clearing with a slow machine like this you can select 'both ways' and set your width of cut or feed slightly lower on the conventional passes. I find i run my triac 70/80% of the speed of the climb pass. It means your low rapid rates arnt such an issue. And speeds things up quite a bit
@@2STROKESTUFFING I've an older 1986 pnc triac that is still running on the original motors and drives. I'm running x&y 1500mm/min and a 1200mm/min. Cant recall acceleration values off hand but it's not aggressive. I also use smoothing option on adaptive clearing paths, it helps with roughing. Less stopping and starting.
Wow man, really nice to see your CNC machine work well after all the hassle you had with it and all the effort you put into it getting it to work properly, really great work man!
will this slide have a seal in it somewhere to prevent air from bleeding in while its running off the primary intake? i know once its on the secondary it won't matter, however, it seems like while its on the primary its gonna cause a big air leak. keep up the great work though man! i love watching this come together!
Get a finer tooth (normally labeled for plywood over here) blade for that chop saw and it will leave a better finish. I regularly use a table saw to cut aluminum sheets. Just use a high tooth blade.
Awesome. Memtest86 (not MemTest86+!) will help you stress test the RAM in your workstation, run it at least overnight to make sure you've not got any failures :)
probably not that important in your case because you run it open in full throttle, but I would be worried it sucks air. At the shop where I did my apprenticeship, we built a small line of slide valves like this for a vacuum system that goes on a cnc mill. everything stainless, the flanges were thick and had a groove for a poliamid gasket. the slider itself was brass. Run on two festo air cylinders. Don’t remember how often they would open and close a minute but that stuff last for 10 months at a time. We also had to drill each unit and use pins so they line up once you assembled it.
I'm not sure if it's been said but if you use a flycutter instead of an end mill for surfacing/facing you can get a much better finish (without the cut lines). Great work!
Slightly off topic. You were going to use a hydraulic pump to create load for your dyno. We recently built an inertia dyno and I am currently building an attachment that uses 2x truck alternators and a PWM to alter load for live torque outputs from a load cell. Alternators can handle 18000 rpm, might be a good option for you and require less reduction in rpm between motor and your test rig.
Why mill slots to keep piece from falling out? Just mill almost through all around, leave a couple of tenth´s of a millimeter, then just break it loose. Then use the first piece as a fixture for the next piece, face it and drill the holes, and bolt it to the part you did earlier. And for setting origo(zero in xy planar, always use the vice´s not moving 'jaw', set that zero in G54, and then call g54 in program, that way you are always certain where your zero is(use the same zero in cad/cam software) Another tip; i almost always use a paper to set zero in Z axis, postit´s are 0.1mm thick. Then i just set the other tool lengths in tool offset tangenting them at the same spot with the same paper.
Awesome! Real parts! Now it'll really start to pay you back for the time/money/blood you've put into it. I wouldn't bother with drilling in the mill, just center-drill everything and use your drill-press afterwards. It'll save a great deal of setup, and it's only a matter of time before you'll snap a drill off in the part and that's no fun! also, If you've got any space/toolholders left I'd definately suggest a chamfering bit as it'll massively reduce the hand de-burring. not essential but it can really neaten up the part and make life a lot simpler.
Heat in oven to make sure its gassed out and doesnt bind under pressure or dry polishing will give it a better finish like carb slides it gonna get hot on the flats also spray fresh fuel in cylinder before even breaking in the cylinder like 10khp topfuel super charged
Nice voiceover. But when this project is done: here's the recap. Fighting with my tools, fighting with my CNC ...and here I break the world record. My battery died but I didn't notice for s few months. Hope y'all like the voiceover. 🤣 Truly? You're simply the best.. That two wheeled, twostroke speed drakar will be AWESOME
drill feed rate 0.002-0.010 feed per tooth and in aluminum as fast as you can without melting it/slower if you want a better finish. spot drill size helps with entry chatter, you never want it to grab on the outside edge of the drill before the center has full contact. (you can half ass ream with them as low speeds 40rpm or so)
Awesome job as always, love all cnc made pieces. Personaly i prefer see you when you say "thanks for watching, see you next time". Anyway, great video. I cant wait to see an hear that little beast at full trottle.
Parrafin a good coolant for aluminium.... Nice to see you going a bit steadier. They are very small machines, patience is your friend... Top stuff fella You and yours take care now Regards Simon
Not "Sorry for the noise, I'm trying to heat up the garage so I survive the arctic conditions", instead "Sorry for the noise, I'm warming my tooling up to do more work" Love it!
Hey Man You should take 2Flute End Mills and for Pockets and Groove‘s. You have way bisher Space for the Chip‘s. If you Would Drill the intersection of These the Endmill will live much Longer.
Thanks! Thank you also to the good people who support you, so that you don't resort to that ugly ambush thing that so many people do in the middle of their videos now.
great voiceover! but i have to say that there is such a thing as too little feed, especially with aluminium. the insterts made for steel especially work best when the chipload is a little higher as the material gets pushed away by the microscopic radius along the cutting edge instead of getting cut like a scissor cliding through packing paper. this effect also causes excessive drag on the tool which is unquestionably problematic when diving into material with the whole face of the cutter engaged so go push that machine a little! it looks like a pretty sturdy thing with a lot of weight on its side
the mill not being able to go at high enough feeds can be compensated by usig cutters with fewer teeth so that per revolution every tooth gets more material than when being shared across more teeth, although two or even one bladed cutters can cause problems with interrupted loads on the machine and at certain spindle speeds the machine can resonate.
The voiceover is awesome!
Yeah very clear, good volume and tonal quality.
yes I agree and laughing at his own bumble's rather than wasting time editing them out gave me a giggle 😁👍
I liked the voice over
You did a great job for your first time voiceover!
The voiceover and the footage was wonderful to see, hope you find a way to stay warm! Glad to see everything coming along so well man. Blessings upon the next projects for progress and glorious action!
I can’t wait to see you run an bonneville !!!
If he doesn't manage to set a new record it won't be through lack of trying that's for sure, his journey through all the new processes has been steep & arduous but he's stuck with it & I personally think he'll be successful or I certainly hope so anyway :-)
Been watching since the nitro moped days, it's so nice to see how much progress you've made in every department since then!
Glad to see you're becoming a decent machinist! A little thing I like to do for a touch off is where I take a gauge block (maybe 10mm), put the tool slightly lower than a 10mm hight and just slowly move it up and push gently on the block until it snuggly slides between the stock and the tool. Then of course subtract the 10mm offset. That way you never accidentally plunge too far and crack the tool or anything.
The voice over was great. The valve sounds and looks great. Darth Vader would be proud.
I'd definitely suggest getting a magnetic solenoid to open that valve instead of a regular electric linear actuator as the magnetic solenoid will open far faster. One easy source would be electric door poppers. Could you imagine if Burt Munro was still alive today, I'm sure he'd be fighting with the computer machining too ;P I'd suggest sanding and polishing the valve blade so that it moves smoother too.
👍 Was actually looking at door actuators a few days qgo.
An Aprilia RS125 exhaust valve solonoid would be perfect. They are pretty powerful as they pull through a cable and also drag the coked up gummy with oil blade. Should be perfect for this. If you get one be sure to put an inverse diode, maybe 1N4007 across the coil to save any spikes from killing your electronics👍
You might not want to open it too fast also.
In a fourstroke engine you would have big problems setting up fueltable for instant opening.
And i figure a twostroke should have the same problem.
@M Bacon or even a metal gear RC servo. Fully tunable then. They do get jittery around high energy ignitions so a metal one and screening the lead would stop that.
@M Bacon the thing is linear actuators tend to be slow where solenoids open quick.
You probably know this, but I hadn't heard it mentioned yet. For cutting aluminum - if you switch to a 2-flute cutter you'll get a much nicer finish. Adds less heat into the local area, so it keeps the chip from micro welding onto the surface.
Also - mineral spirits is cheaper than WD-40 and makes for a very nice cutting agent for aluminum machining.
Keep it coming! Love the videos.
I'm a machinist, your learning ability on that mill is astonishing! and by the way, I think that it is a good thing to be a bit afraid of your milling, It's a powerfull tool that can ruin your day pretty fast. Good job my friend, You'll succeed I'm sure.
Enjoying the voice over while you are working, helps understand what you are doing and most importantly, why. Thank you.
When using high speed steel drills:
Vc=25m/min and Fz 0.2mm
Vc is the cutting speed of hss
Fz is the feed rate per tooth per revolution
(ur using a 2 flute drill, in that case ignore the ''per tooth'' part. Not for solid drills)
Use this formula to calculate rev/min:
N=Vc X 1000 / pi X Diametertool
When u get te rpm then multiply by the Rev per tooth u want to get the desired feed rate in mm/min
Example:
Dia 16 hss drill:
VcX1000/PiXd = 25000/(3.14x16)=
497 rev/min
497x0.2= 99mm/min
I do like the voiceover. I know it takes more time to do, but it helps keep my attention longer. It's also interesting to have an insight into your thought process.
Voice over was brilliant. Great to see you have got your mill working. Looking forward to seeing it running again soon
Taking on something that has problems and fault finding and fixing those problems gives you a much greater understanding of the machine than you would of had if it just worked as it should 🙌
👍 I think that's why I enjoy it so much!
@@2STROKESTUFFING keep on doing what you're doing 🙌 I've been following your content for around 2 years or more now and this is by far your most technical encounter (that I've seen)
A professional voice over my friend. Great video. 👍
Thank you for the update, wonderful to see you challenge yourself! Keep up the good work. Machining looks amazing!
That intake definitely has a satisfying open/closing noise.
Its getting more awesome and fast with CNC. You should it when you started the project.
Finally things are going your way with the mill! Much love from Finland.
I love the voiceover, it works really well and I’d love more of it.
Spring detent in the side of the side to keep it open and closed and you’re golden great job mate and the voice over was good to keep them coming mate great vid
Love the voice over. Reminds me of early ToT, to keep the aluminum from sticking to the end mill, look up alumaglide it works wonders.
Who needs mainstream TV! Things way more interesting here👍 great to see the CNC machine at work !
Very impressive work - looks like you're really getting the hang of the CNC mill.
Thanks!
Very interesting milling. Every day you learn something new to make things easier on the machine.
Its definitely good to go slow at first while machining!! You will slowly get tired of how long it takes and start REALLY finding the sweet spots of your feeds and speeds for your tools! It just takes time!!
Clamp your part directly to the table. On a larger sub plate to protect the table, of course. It will have more support and chatter less, improving your finishes and tolerances.
We always kept an aluminum sub plate for that purpose at least an inch thick. Drill and counter bore 4 holes aligned with the T - slots, so you can bolt it to the table using allen bolts and t-nuts. At this point you can take light cuts with a large diameter cutter( fly cutter 4 " or more ) to make sure it's flat and true. Then flip over the plate and finish the other side. You can use two sided tape to hold it down, your cuts should be
.005 deep only so it should hold fine. Just clean and wipe down the area you're going to use tape on with alcohol really good so the tape sticks properly. You can drill and tap a series of holes for future clamping purposes, or just put 'em where you need them as you need them...
The voice over is fine and very informative don't worry about it you did fine! Also great job on the CNC your parts are coming out better and better!
were so excited to see how it works!
we will always supporting you man
from Philippines 🇵🇭
Engineers little black book is a good cheap ready reference book with drill speed for different size drill bits and lots of other ready reference stuff.
Really awesome stuff!! I am amazed at how quickly you are learning your cnc mill. Especially when I know you don't have that much time to work on it. Great drive and determination.
If your are looking for cutting parameters, feedrates etc. In germany we use the " Tabellenbuch Metall" it has everything you need to know about Turning, milling, Boring etc. in it and even more. But i dont know if There is an english Version of it and please pardon my ability to write in english. Greetings from germany
You can take the burr off aluminum parts quickly with a wire wheel on a grinder
On soft alu i sometimes use a knife..
Getting there slowly but surely going to be a beast of a 2stroke
Excellent work. Great seeing your machining/programming skills getting better.
Thanks again for letting me live through you!! Love it! You made my day! Can't wait for your next video. Keep on keeping on!
You are a "VERY TALENTED MAN" in so many aspects....
"I CONGRATULATE YOU"...!!!!!
Fusion has a speeds and feeds calculator. That will help with drilling. Just set your tool path in manufacturing environment and check the tool path metrics
When adaptive clearing with a slow machine like this you can select 'both ways' and set your width of cut or feed slightly lower on the conventional passes. I find i run my triac 70/80% of the speed of the climb pass. It means your low rapid rates arnt such an issue. And speeds things up quite a bit
👍 Thanks for the advice! What rapids are you running on your Triac? Currently running Z - 1000mm, X&Y - 2300mm on mine.
@@2STROKESTUFFING I've an older 1986 pnc triac that is still running on the original motors and drives. I'm running x&y 1500mm/min and a 1200mm/min. Cant recall acceleration values off hand but it's not aggressive. I also use smoothing option on adaptive clearing paths, it helps with roughing. Less stopping and starting.
Wow man, really nice to see your CNC machine work well after all the hassle you had with it and all the effort you put into it getting it to work properly, really great work man!
by the way, if you need any computer parts, be sure to reach out, have all types of components stored since 1996!
I have been following this from day 1 form nz awesome build and have learnt a lot along with you
Great work! I’m so excited to see how well this motor performs!
After your Bonneville run you should trim your cigar with that creation!
20-30 feed rate on drilling using a .100 peck drilling cycle I believe is on the safe side. I'd have to check my notes but I believe it's a G83
That's the nicest cigar cutter I've ever seen.
Scotchbrite is an excellent way of deburring and finishing parts like that.
I was thinking the same. Just some steel wool and GG
So great to see u doing your dream !! A tip for u There are chips on your tool holders !!! it will in infected accuracy time 3.28 ..
Thanks! Yeah, I saw that too. Should set up an air/coolant blaster to clean holders before toolchanges.
Nice! Much better than the old plastic one.
Well, that's looking a lot better than the RV holding tank dump valve XD
will this slide have a seal in it somewhere to prevent air from bleeding in while its running off the primary intake? i know once its on the secondary it won't matter, however, it seems like while its on the primary its gonna cause a big air leak. keep up the great work though man! i love watching this come together!
Adding an o-ring if it leaks. Tight fit + oil might be enough tho, just like on a rotary valve.
@@2STROKESTUFFING I'm definitely interested to see!
Get a finer tooth (normally labeled for plywood over here) blade for that chop saw and it will leave a better finish. I regularly use a table saw to cut aluminum sheets. Just use a high tooth blade.
lovely piece of engineering mate..well done and thanks for showing us the method
Great work! Can't wait to see how it all turns out!
Nice with coments on the processing parts! Like your videos anyway ;-)
Great video, enjoyed watching the whole process and the voice over worked really well. Keep them coming.
Awesome. Memtest86 (not MemTest86+!) will help you stress test the RAM in your workstation, run it at least overnight to make sure you've not got any failures :)
probably not that important in your case because you run it open in full throttle, but I would be worried it sucks air. At the shop where I did my apprenticeship, we built a small line of slide valves like this for a vacuum system that goes on a cnc mill.
everything stainless, the flanges were thick and had a groove for a poliamid gasket. the slider itself was brass. Run on two festo air cylinders. Don’t remember how often they would open and close a minute but that stuff last for 10 months at a time. We also had to drill each unit and use pins so they line up once you assembled it.
I'm not sure if it's been said but if you use a flycutter instead of an end mill for surfacing/facing you can get a much better finish (without the cut lines). Great work!
Can't wait to see what you do next man awesome content
very nice mate, both voice over and finished parts! cheers.
So glad to see you are getting good with that CNC!
Slightly off topic. You were going to use a hydraulic pump to create load for your dyno. We recently built an inertia dyno and I am currently building an attachment that uses 2x truck alternators and a PWM to alter load for live torque outputs from a load cell. Alternators can handle 18000 rpm, might be a good option for you and require less reduction in rpm between motor and your test rig.
Looking forward to seeing this thing go down the salt flat, always look forward to your videos for a simple view of some complex techniques 👍
Ty for inviting us to your garage
Voice over makes it more interesting. Other TH-cam videos without this get very boring. Good job.
With the hi rotation speed of your drill bit, you should be able to run it at 3 inches per minute or more. Bigger chips can be obtained.
You need to get a Speeds and Feeds chart or Machinery's hand book which has all that and a lot more.
It will make machining a lot easier.
Bad ass !!!! Thank you for giving us all great stuff to watch.. love it !!!!
Why mill slots to keep piece from falling out?
Just mill almost through all around, leave a couple of tenth´s of a millimeter, then just break it loose.
Then use the first piece as a fixture for the next piece, face it and drill the holes, and bolt it to the part you did earlier.
And for setting origo(zero in xy planar, always use the vice´s not moving 'jaw', set that zero in G54, and then call g54 in program, that way you are always certain where your zero is(use the same zero in cad/cam software)
Another tip; i almost always use a paper to set zero in Z axis, postit´s are 0.1mm thick.
Then i just set the other tool lengths in tool offset tangenting them at the same spot with the same paper.
I fled what I was watching when this notification came up!
Great work. I can't wait to see the engine assembled and running again.
Awesome! Real parts! Now it'll really start to pay you back for the time/money/blood you've put into it.
I wouldn't bother with drilling in the mill, just center-drill everything and use your drill-press afterwards. It'll save a great deal of setup, and it's only a matter of time before you'll snap a drill off in the part and that's no fun!
also, If you've got any space/toolholders left I'd definately suggest a chamfering bit as it'll massively reduce the hand de-burring. not essential but it can really neaten up the part and make life a lot simpler.
Thanks! Great advice on not drilling and getting a chamfer tool!
I can see him clicking that slide for ages after filming, nice part:)
Nice progress and the voiceover was good.
Heat in oven to make sure its gassed out and doesnt bind under pressure or dry polishing will give it a better finish like carb slides it gonna get hot on the flats also spray fresh fuel in cylinder before even breaking in the cylinder like 10khp topfuel super charged
The tune was the Imperial March from Star Wars!
Great video. The slide valve looks fantastic!
Enjoyed watching this with VO
Nice voiceover. But when this project is done: here's the recap.
Fighting with my tools, fighting with my CNC ...and here I break the world record. My battery died but I didn't notice for s few months. Hope y'all like the voiceover.
🤣
Truly? You're simply the best.. That two wheeled, twostroke speed drakar will be AWESOME
drill feed rate 0.002-0.010 feed per tooth and in aluminum as fast as you can without melting it/slower if you want a better finish. spot drill size helps with entry chatter, you never want it to grab on the outside edge of the drill before the center has full contact. (you can half ass ream with them as low speeds 40rpm or so)
It’s like attending a class that you love. 👍, good work
Awesome work and voice over is perfect.
Thumbs up mate
Use a piece of Teflon for the slide. Thanks for the great videos. Good luck
Your voice over was excellent, well done.
Awesome job as always, love all cnc made pieces. Personaly i prefer see you when you say "thanks for watching, see you next time". Anyway, great video. I cant wait to see an hear that little beast at full trottle.
Voiceover works great 👍🏻
Parrafin a good coolant for aluminium.... Nice to see you going a bit steadier. They are very small machines, patience is your friend...
Top stuff fella
You and yours take care now
Regards
Simon
Not "Sorry for the noise, I'm trying to heat up the garage so I survive the arctic conditions", instead "Sorry for the noise, I'm warming my tooling up to do more work" Love it!
You should visit the Thailand scooter drag racing events, similar levels of small motor modifications.
Hey Man
You should take 2Flute End Mills and for Pockets and Groove‘s. You have way bisher Space for the Chip‘s. If you Would Drill the intersection of These the Endmill will live much Longer.
👍
Another great and interesting video. Many Thanks
Thanks for the video ,great voice over,
Cant wait to see the
Bike on the road
Ripping up the road .
Keep the video s
Rolling ☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆
The voice over is a nice addition. 👍
Thanks! Thank you also to the good people who support you, so that you don't resort to that ugly ambush thing that so many people do in the middle of their videos now.
great voiceover! but i have to say that there is such a thing as too little feed, especially with aluminium. the insterts made for steel especially work best when the chipload is a little higher as the material gets pushed away by the microscopic radius along the cutting edge instead of getting cut like a scissor cliding through packing paper. this effect also causes excessive drag on the tool which is unquestionably problematic when diving into material with the whole face of the cutter engaged so go push that machine a little! it looks like a pretty sturdy thing with a lot of weight on its side
the mill not being able to go at high enough feeds can be compensated by usig cutters with fewer teeth so that per revolution every tooth gets more material than when being shared across more teeth, although two or even one bladed cutters can cause problems with interrupted loads on the machine and at certain spindle speeds the machine can resonate.
and by all gods use gloves or pliars to remove those burrs or you will skin your finger
your doing great.keep it up.all the best wishes from england
Very, very impressive. Well done.
So you made huge cigar cutter.
😁