I have been researching this problem for a couple of weeks now and finally got around to replacing my leaking oil filter housing. From all of the videos I watched yours is by far the most informative. Expecially the fuel rail warning, e-torx socket, and replacing of the spark plugs. Thank you for the information I appreciate the time you took to make a well detailed video.
Thank you sir! I have been trying to figure out my wife’s Jeep coolant/oil leak for over 2 months and you pointed out exactly what it was doing and how to do it. Thanks again and keep up the work. Ford for life buddy
One thing I did differently was leave the injectors towards the back plugged in, along with the fuel line, and lift the whole lower intake up towards the back and tie it to the windshield wiper. Then you don't have to worry about the fuel system and its less work.
I feel like I have been volunteered to do this job on my brother-in-laws 16 compass. I’ve pulled intakes from the older 5.4 f150 and the older 4.0 plastic intake on explorer. How difficult would this be compared to doing others. Also did any of the intake gaskets come with the oil housing and how many hours should I plan on replacing this. Thanks for any advice
Hi mate, the video was really helpful. I have a 2014 Jeep Cherokee KL, and there was oil leaking from around the oil filter housing. I replaced the oil filter housing, but after 2 weeks, the oil started leaking again. Could you please advise me on what I might have done wrong?
Dorman makes an upgraded aluminum part that should eliminate this issue. The fact that this particular part is mostly plastic is just wrong. Not sure if it was a service strategy, a money saving tactic or both but it’s an incredibly poor design choice. As of this writing the upgraded part is on back order but if it’s available I personally recommend spending the extra as well as strongly advise use of iridium plugs due to the nature of what’s involved in replacing both the oil cooler as well as a simple spark plug change. Oh and for those of us that are not mechanics the wire harness on the stud on the right side of the engine can be a real pain to get off the stud. I never actually managed to get mine off but was barely able to move the bracket to remove the upper manifold. Overall the actual job isn’t that bad, I’ve worked on worse. But there are a few things that are a moderate pain to do. Just be patient and you can do this job yourself and save quite a bit.
@@FordBossMe that may be the case, however I’d gamble on the dorman aluminum part over the plastic factory part. Aluminum will take the heat cycles far better then that plastic part. And truthfully we’re it a bit simpler to change I’d likely not bother but the risks going that far down for non mechanical people are higher due to the open intake ports, multiple plastic parts and plastic clips that will degrade and become brittle and break. If the machining is good it doesn’t matter who made it, since simply over torquing the oil cap can compromise the sonic welds in the plastic. It’s simply a case of choosing your poison. I’ve heard horror stories of people having to have the oil cooler replaced almost every oil change due to a tech over tightening the cap.
Thank you for this video, man! If I changed my oil just a few weeks ago would it still be necessary to do another complete oil change? Or would topping off the oil suffice?
Bottom one is oil preasure sensor ,just got a bad semsor code in my parents jeep lol so looks like ill be ordering that and spark plugs while im in there
What is the part number? I am looking at Ebay and it seems that the 3.6 is the same as the 3.2 That is correct? Do You have the eBay link to order it but that the whole piece is complete with the gaskets??
I just did a basic search just now and there was like 10 different companies that popped up right away that had these in stock so my question to you is how much homework did you do on this? And do you actually really care about getting it done because if you did have a basic Google search will yield you so many different companies that have these in stock including the doorman metal part instead of the plastic which is a permanent fix Here's a video that I had to create this morning because there were so many idiots leaving stupid messages on my channel just so I can clear up some things and educate the assholes on things that they don't know th-cam.com/video/r8Ua000gQhc/w-d-xo.html
And I have another video on this same issue on the same vehicle updating it to the newer part because even after I installed this part a year and a half later it started leaking again
It's been so long since I've done this I don't even remember now man I think the biggest thing was the socket for the sensors on the actual cooler assembly and I don't even remember what those were they were big though
It's clipped onto a few spots on the back of the intake manifold with these little plastic clips that grab the harness if you have to make sure all those are pulled off
@@angelhurtado4173 E8 inverted torx, 19mm wrench, 1 1/16inch wrench ( I used what I had but I'm sure there is a metric equivalent) < ------ the wrenches are for the sensors you'll have to install in the assembly but make sure you install them before dropping cooler in to bolt down, 3/8 drive 10mm socket and a 8mm socket, 10mm ratcheting wrench, 13mm deep socket, 3/8 drive ratchet, Couple 3/8 drive extensions, If your doing plugs while you are there then you'll need a 5/8ths spark plug socket as well, clip puller tool, Suction device to remove coolant from center of engine or oil absorbent pads or garbage rags, Flat head screw driver, Headlight if doing it in the dark and a scotch Brite pad to clean mounting surfaces. I took some rags and stuffed down in the ports to the valves when I was cleaning to make sure no debris got in there I'm trying to remember if there was anything else
Common, these are not very good engines they are very problematic I think Dorman has come out with a complete aluminum housing version now so the plastic issue is not really a problem anymore after you upgrade and then these engines also develop what's called a tick and they just continue to slowly get worse
@@FordBossMe i was going to order mopar, but I'll get dorman instead, i noticed a leak when i changed the oil, it wasn't there last time i changed it. least its somewhat easy to fix.
This is a very good video, but i seriously get ankiyed when mechanics cut to blank then come back and say " this is what i did" like just show us lol. I never worked on a jeep before now i have to find other videos to see what he undid then come back to this one to comtinue.
@FordBossMe that is very understandable. I wasnt trying to argue a point im just like damn man i need to know how that part came off lol. I know you guys do alot tho and its appreciated
@@OSDCrusher as I said if you want to keep running your trap I'm going to find you off the page and you ain't going to have a say so, so tighten up that lip quit running them damn fingers across the screen and learn something
I have been researching this problem for a couple of weeks now and finally got around to replacing my leaking oil filter housing. From all of the videos I watched yours is by far the most informative. Expecially the fuel rail warning, e-torx socket, and replacing of the spark plugs. Thank you for the information I appreciate the time you took to make a well detailed video.
Thank You For watching and supporting
I hope you got the metal one
@@myname2263Can’t believe he turned around and put another plastic one in there
Was the oil cooler itself cracked and leaking or was it just the gaskets on it?
Thank you sir! I have been trying to figure out my wife’s Jeep coolant/oil leak for over 2 months and you pointed out exactly what it was doing and how to do it. Thanks again and keep up the work. Ford for life buddy
OMG 65K and that engine bay looks brand new! This video is very, very well done, I like that you get so close to stuff. Thank you for this!!!
I steam clean this engine and keep it clean for my GFs mother
Thank You
@@FordBossMe Hmmmm steam clean! You should do a video on that!
My oil cooler crapped out at 30,000 so ya it still looks brand new under there.
Terrific video. Very helpful, thank you!
One thing I did differently was leave the injectors towards the back plugged in, along with the fuel line, and lift the whole lower intake up towards the back and tie it to the windshield wiper. Then you don't have to worry about the fuel system and its less work.
Half a dozen of 1 and of the other doesn't matter as long as the job gets done right
How did you remove the push clip at 2:37 . I’m struggling to get it removed and the tool I have is big for the amount of space
I feel like I have been volunteered to do this job on my brother-in-laws 16 compass. I’ve pulled intakes from the older 5.4 f150 and the older 4.0 plastic intake on explorer.
How difficult would this be compared to doing others.
Also did any of the intake gaskets come with the oil housing and how many hours should I plan on replacing this.
Thanks for any advice
Hi mate, the video was really helpful. I have a 2014 Jeep Cherokee KL, and there was oil leaking from around the oil filter housing. I replaced the oil filter housing, but after 2 weeks, the oil started leaking again. Could you please advise me on what I might have done wrong?
Great video thanks. If a person took this to a shop how much should this job cost?
4.5 - 5hrs X their labor rate + price of parts 200 - 300$
I need this done to my 2016 Jeep Cherokee. How much should a repair like this cost?
Dorman makes an upgraded aluminum part that should eliminate this issue. The fact that this particular part is mostly plastic is just wrong. Not sure if it was a service strategy, a money saving tactic or both but it’s an incredibly poor design choice. As of this writing the upgraded part is on back order but if it’s available I personally recommend spending the extra as well as strongly advise use of iridium plugs due to the nature of what’s involved in replacing both the oil cooler as well as a simple spark plug change.
Oh and for those of us that are not mechanics the wire harness on the stud on the right side of the engine can be a real pain to get off the stud. I never actually managed to get mine off but was barely able to move the bracket to remove the upper manifold.
Overall the actual job isn’t that bad, I’ve worked on worse. But there are a few things that are a moderate pain to do. Just be patient and you can do this job yourself and save quite a bit.
I seen that but people hate doorman
@@FordBossMe that may be the case, however I’d gamble on the dorman aluminum part over the plastic factory part. Aluminum will take the heat cycles far better then that plastic part. And truthfully we’re it a bit simpler to change I’d likely not bother but the risks going that far down for non mechanical people are higher due to the open intake ports, multiple plastic parts and plastic clips that will degrade and become brittle and break.
If the machining is good it doesn’t matter who made it, since simply over torquing the oil cap can compromise the sonic welds in the plastic. It’s simply a case of choosing your poison. I’ve heard horror stories of people having to have the oil cooler replaced almost every oil change due to a tech over tightening the cap.
Thank you for this video, man! If I changed my oil just a few weeks ago would it still be necessary to do another complete oil change? Or would topping off the oil suffice?
Top it off
Hi I have a 2019 Jeep Cherokee 3.2 I’m looking to replace. Can you tell me all the tools I’ll need for this job?
It's honestly been so long since I've done it I cannot tell you
No worries. It looks fairly simple. I’ll rewatch and see what you use and go from there. Thank you!
What do those sensors do on cooler? Oil temp? Pressure?
Coolant temp?
Bottom one is oil preasure sensor ,just got a bad semsor code in my parents jeep lol so looks like ill be ordering that and spark plugs while im in there
What is the part number?
I am looking at Ebay and it seems that the 3.6 is the same as the 3.2 That is correct?
Do You have the eBay link to order it but that the whole piece is complete with the gaskets??
I just did a basic search just now and there was like 10 different companies that popped up right away that had these in stock so my question to you is how much homework did you do on this? And do you actually really care about getting it done because if you did have a basic Google search will yield you so many different companies that have these in stock including the doorman metal part instead of the plastic which is a permanent fix
Here's a video that I had to create this morning because there were so many idiots leaving stupid messages on my channel just so I can clear up some things and educate the assholes on things that they don't know
th-cam.com/video/r8Ua000gQhc/w-d-xo.html
Sound sooooo familiar .. any chance uve got another channel ?! ❤😊
Yeah I have a maintenance Channel and then I have another Channel where I talk about Keto
And I have another video on this same issue on the same vehicle updating it to the newer part because even after I installed this part a year and a half later it started leaking again
And if this is Sherry little you were in my keto group we were friends
About to do mine, can you put a tool list in here maybe? Thanks, great video!
It's been so long since I've done this I don't even remember now man I think the biggest thing was the socket for the sensors on the actual cooler assembly and I don't even remember what those were they were big though
What was the trick to get the connector off the sensor on the oil cooler?
You just reach your finger under their further and there's a tab that you push it's there it's just hard to get to or feel for
Hey, quick question: How did you get the wiring harness out on the right side of the engine? Having issues!
It's clipped onto a few spots on the back of the intake manifold with these little plastic clips that grab the harness if you have to make sure all those are pulled off
Should you put oil on the intake gaskets as well?
Ehhhh not necessarily
Thank you for this video.
Your Very Welcome
Do you have parts numbers and where i can get them from?
@@angelhurtado4173 yes I have another video unboxing, I will send the link
www.amazon.com/dp/B07HS2SSSR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
@@angelhurtado4173 E8 inverted torx, 19mm wrench, 1 1/16inch wrench ( I used what I had but I'm sure there is a metric equivalent) < ------ the wrenches are for the sensors you'll have to install in the assembly but make sure you install them before dropping cooler in to bolt down, 3/8 drive 10mm socket and a 8mm socket, 10mm ratcheting wrench, 13mm deep socket, 3/8 drive ratchet, Couple 3/8 drive extensions, If your doing plugs while you are there then you'll need a 5/8ths spark plug socket as well, clip puller tool, Suction device to remove coolant from center of engine or oil absorbent pads or garbage rags, Flat head screw driver, Headlight if doing it in the dark and a scotch Brite pad to clean mounting surfaces. I took some rags and stuffed down in the ports to the valves when I was cleaning to make sure no debris got in there
I'm trying to remember if there was anything else
i have a 19 cherokee v6 70k changed my oil noticed a leak on the right side away from the oil pan. first stupid issue in 70k.
Common, these are not very good engines they are very problematic I think Dorman has come out with a complete aluminum housing version now so the plastic issue is not really a problem anymore after you upgrade and then these engines also develop what's called a tick and they just continue to slowly get worse
@@FordBossMe i was going to order mopar, but I'll get dorman instead, i noticed a leak when i changed the oil, it wasn't there last time i changed it. least its somewhat easy to fix.
Jeeps are now officially easier to work on than fords.
Should I do a engine flush afterwards
No
How long did it take you to complete this job along with trips to get tools you needed?
I'd say about three and a half hours
@@FordBossMe not bad at all
This is a very good video, but i seriously get ankiyed when mechanics cut to blank then come back and say " this is what i did" like just show us lol. I never worked on a jeep before now i have to find other videos to see what he undid then come back to this one to comtinue.
Sometimes we don't have time for that
@FordBossMe that is very understandable. I wasnt trying to argue a point im just like damn man i need to know how that part came off lol. I know you guys do alot tho and its appreciated
What was the oil cooler housing torque specs?
I dont remember I'll have to look Monday
@@FordBossMe did you find the torque setting. Thanks
@@da2875 I’m also wondering this.
And you cannot see if you have a leak until it is quite visible or catastrophic. Stupid design!!!
Great video poor sound
I’m watching this cause I just got charged 1,000 to fix this😒
That's not terrible honestly
I just had it done to our 2017 Cherokee Trailhawk--$1020. I guess you can't escape FIAT--fix it again Tony.
Too much talking, not enough showing what to do
Dont watch very simple
If you came here for help DONT COMPLAIN lol
@@FordBossMe Useless video, have to keep skipping through the gum flapping.
@@OSDCrusher as I said if you want to keep running your trap I'm going to find you off the page and you ain't going to have a say so, so tighten up that lip quit running them damn fingers across the screen and learn something
@@FordBossMe it took you four months to respond and that's the best you could come up with? I'll be waiting for you big man