Rhinoblasters same here, I used to be really into rc cars when I was a kid and just started getting back into them but didn’t understand anything about lipos lol
I always test with a 4x AA box, this is a great series Chaylo, very helpful, I do still run my rewired Barricade on 3 IMR's as I can't fit a LiPo in the stock battery tray, everything else is LiPo powered. I use 2200mAh 65c 3S LiPo's in my larger, high powered blasters with Neo-Rhino/Rhino builds and 1000mAh 40c's 2S LiPo's in my Stryfe builds with Meishel 2.0's. I love this new series you are doing, I made a few errors on my first try, but I find HobbyKing's LiPo finder a great resource for finding the correct LiPo with the right current and dimensions for pretty much all blasters. Thank you for this series and your ability to explain things clearly and simply, much appreciated and very useful.
Matt Von Nerf I recently acquired a barricade you mind if I ask you a few questions? What IMR’s did you use? How did you make it take elite size darts? Motor or flywheel replacement?
@LightningEagle14 Barricades have some of the best stock motors of any Nerf blaster. You'll either need larger diameter flywheels or a new flywheel cage.
LightningEagle14 I trimmed the existing cage to fit a pair of XD flywheels. Rewired it with 18 AWG wire throughout, removed all the locks and use 3 EFest IMR's. The motors are really good, similar to old Falcons, they can take up to a 3S if done properly. Then it'll happily fire Elites, really well in fact, just don't try it with a Stockade as the motors are terrible. It's actually really easy to do, but remember, they are still metal brushed motors and can (and will) eventually burn out., you can even make a rev trigger if you don't like the "always on" switch.
LightningEagle14 you wouldn't be able to fit a LiPo with enough current to run Meishel 2.0s, the LiPo only fits in a Stryfe with a lot of internal cutting on the battery tray, the Barricade is way too small. Barricade motors are good anyway they'll handle 3 IMR's, a lot of people harvest motors from Barricades and run then on a 3S LiPo in a different blaster. XD flywheels are just stock flywheels from an Elite XD blaster, I got 4 for about £2.75, or for a little more money, you could stick in some Worker white flywheels instead, but they cost about £7 a pair.
Yes, it is an important topic and it's not like mistakes won't matter, but I wouldn't expect anyone to fully cover everything relevant to it individually. I'd say you did a pretty good job (yes, I learned a thing or two). Excluding Lipo safety and handling, which you have explicitly stated will be covered elsewhere, there's not a lot I feel has to be added. If I really had to choose, I'd say to mention the '3.2' volt cells mentioned are LiFePO4 (which are technically not Lipos but specifying that it's a different chemistry is good enough). Also that LiHV Lipo packs come in at 3.8V nominal, those are two that I'd mention if I chose to diverge into mentioning that not all lithium chemistry packs are the same voltage. Fully charged voltages are something related to battery handling and safety so I'm not picky there. Either way, it's not really important, which should give you an idea of the kind of job you've done.
Hobby King is a good place to look for lipos because they have the lipo finder that you can enter the dimensions, cell #, discharge rate, and more to find the battery you want
Stay away from Traxxas, connector is proprietary. Unless you own Traxxas products and fully understand the connector, just don't bother. Otherwise, Turnigy's Graphene, Graphene Green, and Nanotech series are all good batteries I can vouch for.
It’sSlimerbot 99 everything should be fine with super-stock as long as the kids are wearing eye protection and keep under about 150 FPS with softer tip darts, go to an organised game and you will be covered, they should check your blaster isn't too powerful That shouldn't stop you modding, otherwise do some cosmetic mods that don't affect performance if she is really uptight about it, to prove modded blasters don't hurt or do damage, I let my mom shoot me point-blank with my modded Stryfe. Now she has her own modded Triad she keeps on her laptop table! She happily shoots all my modded blasters and enjoys it, people just need to be educated.
The current draw adds up for each motor, LED, or other component you have in *parallel* , which most flywheel motors are wired in. Anything in series draws as much current as the most demanding component, but there, the *potential* adds.
I highly recommend getting a Bench power supply if you're going to be doing a lot of electric modding. Adjustable voltage/amperage and many have short protection/detection. Downside is that they don't have the amps needed to drive both motors and shoot a dart.
Another important thing to note is that most lipos have a short term c rating that is higher than the general c rating. This can be matched to the stall current since that level of current is only drawn during spin up and drops off a bit once at full speed. However, again there is no such thing as too high of a c rating and it never hurts to play it safe.
Great video. Using the C rating on the battery and the stall current of the motor is a good guide, especially for those starting out (which is the aim of the video, sure) but remember the labelled C rating is for a constant discharge. So the Turnigy Graphenes you show have a constant discharge rating up to 65C but a burst discharge rating up to 130C (usually up to 10sec I believe). Conversely the stall current of the motors is not what they run at but usually achieved momentarily at startup and when you stall (jam) the motors. So you can safely use the burst rating of the battery with the stall current of the motor when determining what fits best. Most LiPo batteries will show a single figure which will always be the constant discharge rating but many will show both (so if they show 65c-130c, 65c is the constant discharge rating and 130c is the burst discharge rating). Using the burst rating vs the total stall the 0.95 2S Graphene should comfortably run 3 FangRV motors.
Also, remember, everytime a dart passes through the flywheels the amp requirement spikes to overcome the added resistence. Better to build for worst case and have more than you need than build to the best case and end up with too little.
Absolutely agree, always better to overspec especially if the cost is negligible. I doubt the amp requirements for regular firing is going to get anywhere near the stall current though.
Howdy Cap, just wanted to take a sec an Evangelize about Data Sheets. If you are thinking of buying a Cell or Battery, if it doesn't have a piblicly availabe Data Sheet you trust, don't buy the product without knowing you are taking a risk. All good energy holding devices will have a Data Sheet and it will let you know immediately if this will be the product to fit your need. Also, thank you for talking Motor Specs because a lot of people don't know that 2 motors of the same size class can have different needs!
3.7 volts is the safe discharge voltage. It is more like 4.2 volts per cell when charged. you will come a cropper if you do your calculations such a current based on 3.7 volts!!!!!!
Thank you for maing this video. personally, I prefer springers, as I'm a mechanical engineering student, but I've wanted to get into flywheels for a while. what balancer/charger do you use/recomend? EDIT: Nevermind, I just heard you say that was in the next episode. Sorry
Hello Captain Xavier, first of all I am a big fan of your work. Just want to ask you, I ordered a dominator and i plan to put 6 FangRv motors and a full auto kit, is a 3S lipo enough to do the job?
FangRv's are not 3s motors, they are 2s motors. What you need is a 2s motor with lots and lots of current. The current output of the battery must be equal or more than the combined stall currents of all 6 motors.
Something that I'm confused about is if you need a battery that can output current equal to the total stall current of your motors, do you also need switches and wires that can handle that same total stall current. If I'm running 2 fang revamps, I need a 2S that can put out 56 amps, but do I also need a 56A rated microswitch and 56A rated wire (which I think is about 8 gauge)? Logically, I would think that I do, but I've know that people run fang revamps on Omron switches (21A rating) and 16 gauge wire (12A I think); so I must be missing something here, what am I getting wrong?
In theory that would be correct. However, Omron switches and 18g wire is the standard and I have yet to have (or even hear of) any of them burning out. I suspect this is because Flywheel blasters tend to get fired in short bursts. If you ran one non-stop for the entire life of the battery you might burn out your switch.
hey cap!! I was wondering if you were a fan of or at least liked the TRON movies and/or show. I might 3D print a lightbike or two and was wondering if you wanted one! (Sorry I can't guarantee you'll get one because shipping is expensive)
Hey, where did you find the 2200 MaH Graphene? Is that a 2S? I could not find any graphene over 1000 MaH that was a soft shell. I want to run a Hyperfire on 3 fangs but that's the only battery with the current to do it.
Captain xavier im concerned about my modded nerf stryfe. I have a pair of mieshel 2.0 and the battery im using is a turnigy 2s lipo 1000mah 70c-150c with an xt30 connector. Im wondering why my stryfe heats up and im trying hard to look up about it but cant seem to find an answer that satisfy me. I hope you'll help thanks
@@CaptainXavier my motor heats up and it heats up after a couple of minutes of use It starts up as warm and after shooting for a couple of times in a couple of minutes it then heats up like hot water (the kind of hot water where u use it on tea and coffee) . The battery doesn't heat up as well as the wires in the motors, the switch and the wires connected to the switch and lipo. The motors are the only thing in my stryfe that heats up
@@arvinlukedumalay3237 well, electric motors will do that when used. However, if it is enough that you can notice (not easy given that they are inside a plastic shell) that does suggest they are getting warmer than usual. It could be a wiring issue, a QA issue, the wheels might be on too tight or too loose and are rubbing and adding extra friction. Or it could be normal heat build up and you are just over thinking it. Do you have access to a control group?
Thank you for this video series, it has been very educational and helpful. However it is causing me all sorts of confusion. I currently use 9.6v 1600mAh batteries. They have a 10A discharge rate. There is nothing about current anywhere on them and the documentation I have found online is not helpful with a current level or explaining what 10A Discharge means. Do you know? In the past I have successfully run 2 Meichel 2.0s and 1 Rhino (pusher) in a Rapidstrike using this battery.
i may have overheard it, but dit you adress constant current / burst current on lipos? afaik, for the time motors draw the stall current, the burst C-rating of a lipo is enough and you don't have to have a lipo that can supply that as constant current.
I did not, because burst current is not standardized and it is not advised to build assuming that it is. Besides, flywheel blasters do not just hit stall currents are start up. They also spike (though not as high) every time a dart goes through the flywheels. As such it is simply better to build based on stall current rather than pushing the minimum limit and risking damage. There is no downside to having a battery with more potential current than needed but there is great risk if you don't have enough.
When it comes to Monday Mod Tips, could you do un edited builds and mods to some blasters so us shmucks can work as you go? I can't do Baron Shoty Pistol cause no offense, I can't follow. Mayhaps a series of Monday Mod Guides?
So I just picked up a stryfe and rapidstrike to use with my son. I dont really plan doing internal mods for now. Is it better to just get LiPos or use IMR/FRs?
If you are not doing internal upgrades IMRs are probably better. They are easier and work just fine with stock internals. To use LiPo you have to do some internal mods just to be able to plug the LiPo into the blaster. The stryfe can take two IMRs and the Rapidstrike can take 3.
Regarding the sky rc balance charger. What are you using to power it. Mine came with only two alligator clips for the input power. Did yours come with a wall plug? How would you solve this issue? Please help.
How can I discover the C-rating of a LiPo that doesn't have it on the battery itself? It's got the voltage (3.7v) and its capacity (650mAh) but neither the battery nor online listings state the C-rating. The only other piece of information I have is that listings for the drone it came with say "flight time 6 minutes." Can you help? Thanks in advance.
3.7V means it's only 1S. Sadly without the proper testing equipment and electronics knowledge, the only way to know the C rating is if it's posted online somewhere.
is stall current really the current draw you need to look at? Isn't the stall current the current it's under when the load is so great the motor stops moving? We aren't doing that with flywheels, so why consider stall current?
That... makes sense actually. However that is a momentary burst. Batteries can usually handle a burst above their rating. So, wouldn't normal running current be more relevant?
Sure...assuming you never do anything to slow down the flywheels or make the motors work harder like, oh I don't know, put a dart through them... Everytime a dart passes through the flywheels the motors amp requirement spikes to overcome the added resistance. Also, burst current is not standardized so it is a bad idea to build based on it. FAR better and safer to build for worst case since there is no risk involved in having too much potential current while there is great risk in having too little.
Fair play. I suppose there is a chance of a dart getting stuck and stalling the motors. It would suck if a few seconds later your battery catches fire. So fair enough. Looking forward to your vid on battery care, I never understood why they have to be kept discharged when not in use.
I have a question: my stryfe uses a 7.4v 25C 1400mAh, I wired them with the stock motors (with all 4 resistors inside) and it spins just a little bit better if not same as 4 Alkalines. Is it because of the resistors inside? Or my battery is duh? I kept resistors because I wanted to keep the stock motors safe.
Yes, it is probably the resistors. Also, keep in mind, a stock Stryfe operates on 6v. 7.4 is not that much more so the difference would not be significant.
Regulator is a great stock blaster because of the select fire feature. As far as fps and distance the regulator underperforms to other flywheel blasters. Even with a Lipo upgrade the regulator still only hits about 80 fps, at least mine is hitting that fps with a straight 2s Lipo installed. I'm adding new cages, flywheels and revamped fangs and hopefully that will get closer to 130 fps. I'll have a video for that once I get all the parts in the mail, and a chronograph.
If i wanted to just convert to lipos for the sake of saving $ on buying batteries constantly, how would i find the specs for stock blaster motors? Are they all the same? Etc. Been looking online and cant find def. Answer.
The mah rating of lipos is how long that battery will run. Given that our blasters don't run full throttle for extended periods the battery life will be determined by how you use the blaster.
daaaaaaaaaang... founding out that would be just to nice, cuz the kv rating show the fastness of the motors. More Kv = more faster fps but possibly bit less torque. lower kv = slower fps but more torque (kv is the number of turns of the motor per volt)
Indeed. It has been tested and proved that past a certain RPM no gain is gotten because the darts just get shredded. This is why all the custom motors people have designed and gotten made spin at the RPM that they do.
Electronics are so complicated...there are so many numeric values you need to hold in mind. Current, power, capacity, numbered naming, discharge...man...
...dude...that is literally what this video teachs...I give the formula AND all the numbers for revamps...just do the math. I am not your personal calculator...
Hey cap you didn't respond to my last comment on your last video it was about my broken atlas I found busted atlas that had a plunger tube that I used to replace my broken atlas plunger tube which is great but I was wondering if you wanted the rest of the parts all the internals were fine except know it doesn't have a plunger tube and it has half of a pump grip if you don't want it please ask if any of your friends want it thanks captain .
Watch the video and pay attention. FangRVs are designed for 2s, but you have to get a high enough C-rating and mAH. A 2s 1000mAH 65C battery is not enough. But a 2s 1500mAH 65C would be.
Long answer? That question does not, in fact, make any sense. The battery does not matter by itself. What matters is the battery AND what it is powering. It is not voltage you have to worry about. It is current. And current is not determined by the battery but rather by what the battery is powering. A single lower amp motor like a Honey Badger can run on stock wiring. Whereas 3 Fang ReVamps would melt stock wires and switches. Short answer? Go with at least 18g.
@@bluebear121 again, long answer? How many? The more motors, the more amperage required, the more current drawn, and thus the thicker the wire needs to be. Short answer? Go with at least 18g.
Fangs are a 3s motor, do you mean Fang Revamped motors? The motors 'pull' current from the battery. If the battery cannot keep up they can overheat which will reduce the longevity of the battery and possibly cause a short in the battery which can lead to it's failure (soemtimes a nasty fire). If you are using FangRV motors, the stall current for those is 28A each (at 2S) so the total is 56A. I think the stock motors are about 5 or so. Lets say 60A total. This is stall current though, ie when you stall the motors (like when the blaster jams and you keep your finger on the rev trigger) or momentarily at startup. So as long as your battery can cope with the stall current, you are all good. Conversely if you never stall the motors, you're probably fine hence most people don't see an issue when running under-specced batteries. But it's a risk all the same which can be avoided entirely by using a higher rated battery. LiPo batteries usually have a constant C rating and a burst rating. The burst rating is a higher discharge figure the battery can handle in short bursts (up to 10sec I think). Many LiPos show both (eg 25C-40C on a battery would indicate up to 25C constant discharge and up to 40C burst discharge). If the battery only has a single figure on the label it is most often the constant figure. So in your case a 65C constant discharge rating on a battery will cover you if you are stalling the motors all the time such as when kids get a jam and figure keeping their finger on the trigger will clear it (you're switches and wiring probably won't be happy about it though), whereas a 40C-75C battery would cope with the occasional stall that is more the norm.
John Jeffrey ah okay, I am running both the og fangs and the fangRV motors, thank you so much for clearing this up for me, this makes a lot of sense and also explains why so many of my stock motors die when I try messing with them lol
You cannot damage the motor(s) with an under specc'd battery, it just won't perform as well. The motors draw current from the battery and the battery pushes voltage to the motors (simply put) so you damage the motors by pushing too many volts through them or damage the battery by trying to pull too many amps from it. Stock motors are designed for lower voltages, generally 4.8-6V (alkalines might be 1.5V but they drop to 1.2V pretty quick) so pushing 2S (7.4V) though them will shorten their lives eventually and more rapidly the more volts you push through them. Again depends on the motor though, a Barricade runs on 3 alkalines (so 3.6-4.5V) but their motors seem pretty happy running on 3S (11.1V) also.
..but I hate how I can notice a difference between 20c and 30c rated batteries but not 40c and 65c.... there are always lies in how batteries are advertised
Yup. They fudge the numbers hard. But also, once you get that high you have to work hard to over draw the current. Which is why all my batteries are 65c.
@@andersonng1709 I have several tutorials on how to rewire blasters to take LiPos. I have a whole series of videos called Nerf Rewired that are only that. I have a Stryfe rewire in which I show every step.
Captain Xavier I find it rather ironic, given the fact that you literally are made sick by playing them, that the adverts TH-cam has chosen to show me for the last four or five of your videos are for first-person-shooter video games.
![KRK - ชนิสรา Ft.WanMai , N/A [Official MV] Prod. By Sakarin](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/C-WMwwYobcU/mqdefault.jpg)
We like you too. :)
Thank you for this video. I am both a nerf modder and a rc car hobbyist and was very unsure about lipos and batteries but this has helped me greatly
Rhinoblasters same here, I used to be really into rc cars when I was a kid and just started getting back into them but didn’t understand anything about lipos lol
I always test with a 4x AA box, this is a great series Chaylo, very helpful, I do still run my rewired Barricade on 3 IMR's as I can't fit a LiPo in the stock battery tray, everything else is LiPo powered. I use 2200mAh 65c 3S LiPo's in my larger, high powered blasters with Neo-Rhino/Rhino builds and 1000mAh 40c's 2S LiPo's in my Stryfe builds with Meishel 2.0's.
I love this new series you are doing, I made a few errors on my first try, but I find HobbyKing's LiPo finder a great resource for finding the correct LiPo with the right current and dimensions for pretty much all blasters.
Thank you for this series and your ability to explain things clearly and simply, much appreciated and very useful.
Matt Von Nerf I recently acquired a barricade you mind if I ask you a few questions?
What IMR’s did you use? How did you make it take elite size darts? Motor or flywheel replacement?
@LightningEagle14 Barricades have some of the best stock motors of any Nerf blaster. You'll either need larger diameter flywheels or a new flywheel cage.
LightningEagle14 I trimmed the existing cage to fit a pair of XD flywheels. Rewired it with 18 AWG wire throughout, removed all the locks and use 3 EFest IMR's.
The motors are really good, similar to old Falcons, they can take up to a 3S if done properly.
Then it'll happily fire Elites, really well in fact, just don't try it with a Stockade as the motors are terrible.
It's actually really easy to do, but remember, they are still metal brushed motors and can (and will) eventually burn out., you can even make a rev trigger if you don't like the "always on" switch.
Matt Von Nerf What are XD flywheels? Also, do you think I could use mishel 2.0s? Or would they draw too much current?
LightningEagle14 you wouldn't be able to fit a LiPo with enough current to run Meishel 2.0s, the LiPo only fits in a Stryfe with a lot of internal cutting on the battery tray, the Barricade is way too small.
Barricade motors are good anyway they'll handle 3 IMR's, a lot of people harvest motors from Barricades and run then on a 3S LiPo in a different blaster.
XD flywheels are just stock flywheels from an Elite XD blaster, I got 4 for about £2.75, or for a little more money, you could stick in some Worker white flywheels instead, but they cost about £7 a pair.
Thank you so much for breaking this down into smaller easier to learn chunks, you just cured my headache.
Yes, it is an important topic and it's not like mistakes won't matter, but I wouldn't expect anyone to fully cover everything relevant to it individually. I'd say you did a pretty good job (yes, I learned a thing or two). Excluding Lipo safety and handling, which you have explicitly stated will be covered elsewhere, there's not a lot I feel has to be added.
If I really had to choose, I'd say to mention the '3.2' volt cells mentioned are LiFePO4 (which are technically not Lipos but specifying that it's a different chemistry is good enough). Also that LiHV Lipo packs come in at 3.8V nominal, those are two that I'd mention if I chose to diverge into mentioning that not all lithium chemistry packs are the same voltage. Fully charged voltages are something related to battery handling and safety so I'm not picky there. Either way, it's not really important, which should give you an idea of the kind of job you've done.
Quick question: Are there any particular brands that you would recommend, and ones or sellers that you would stay away from?
Anything sold my Out-of-Darts or Foamblast is good. Beyond that I know nothing.
Hobby King is a good place to look for lipos because they have the lipo finder that you can enter the dimensions, cell #, discharge rate, and more to find the battery you want
Alright cool, thanks.
Stay away from Traxxas, connector is proprietary. Unless you own Traxxas products and fully understand the connector, just don't bother. Otherwise, Turnigy's Graphene, Graphene Green, and Nanotech series are all good batteries I can vouch for.
Wow, I wish I could do this, but my grandma won’t let me mod blasters in fear that I will hurt little kids
Voyd 2 teen/adults surviving in an apocalyptic world of little kids, whatever shall we do?
It’sSlimerbot 99 everything should be fine with super-stock as long as the kids are wearing eye protection and keep under about 150 FPS with softer tip darts, go to an organised game and you will be covered, they should check your blaster isn't too powerful
That shouldn't stop you modding, otherwise do some cosmetic mods that don't affect performance if she is really uptight about it, to prove modded blasters don't hurt or do damage, I let my mom shoot me point-blank with my modded Stryfe.
Now she has her own modded Triad she keeps on her laptop table!
She happily shoots all my modded blasters and enjoys it, people just need to be educated.
Voyd That’s not really an excuse to trashtalk kids smh
That’s sad...
@@sukedent1 You are just like Anakin
The current draw adds up for each motor, LED, or other component you have in *parallel* , which most flywheel motors are wired in. Anything in series draws as much current as the most demanding component, but there, the *potential* adds.
This is absolutely the best explanation of LiPo batteries I have seen. Well done sir!
This is very helpful to hear. Clear concise and I greatly appreciate it.
I highly recommend getting a Bench power supply if you're going to be doing a lot of electric modding. Adjustable voltage/amperage and many have short protection/detection. Downside is that they don't have the amps needed to drive both motors and shoot a dart.
Another important thing to note is that most lipos have a short term c rating that is higher than the general c rating. This can be matched to the stall current since that level of current is only drawn during spin up and drops off a bit once at full speed. However, again there is no such thing as too high of a c rating and it never hurts to play it safe.
Thank you Cap.
This was really helpful!!
Great video. Using the C rating on the battery and the stall current of the motor is a good guide, especially for those starting out (which is the aim of the video, sure) but remember the labelled C rating is for a constant discharge. So the Turnigy Graphenes you show have a constant discharge rating up to 65C but a burst discharge rating up to 130C (usually up to 10sec I believe). Conversely the stall current of the motors is not what they run at but usually achieved momentarily at startup and when you stall (jam) the motors. So you can safely use the burst rating of the battery with the stall current of the motor when determining what fits best. Most LiPo batteries will show a single figure which will always be the constant discharge rating but many will show both (so if they show 65c-130c, 65c is the constant discharge rating and 130c is the burst discharge rating). Using the burst rating vs the total stall the 0.95 2S Graphene should comfortably run 3 FangRV motors.
I am aware, don't confuse the newbies.
Fair call.
Also, remember, everytime a dart passes through the flywheels the amp requirement spikes to overcome the added resistence. Better to build for worst case and have more than you need than build to the best case and end up with too little.
Absolutely agree, always better to overspec especially if the cost is negligible. I doubt the amp requirements for regular firing is going to get anywhere near the stall current though.
Depends how high crush your setup is.
I shorted a Lipo for about a half a second, it was an 85 C 2s, and it started smoking and I got lucky I didn’t blow up my kitchen. Fun times.
Howdy Cap, just wanted to take a sec an Evangelize about Data Sheets. If you are thinking of buying a Cell or Battery, if it doesn't have a piblicly availabe Data Sheet you trust, don't buy the product without knowing you are taking a risk. All good energy holding devices will have a Data Sheet and it will let you know immediately if this will be the product to fit your need. Also, thank you for talking Motor Specs because a lot of people don't know that 2 motors of the same size class can have different needs!
3.7 volts is the safe discharge voltage. It is more like 4.2 volts per cell when charged. you will come a cropper if you do your calculations such a current based on 3.7 volts!!!!!!
Hope you will touch on calculating charging current in the next video, so glad you're doing this series well, share the knowledge
Thanks, I really needed to watch this, now I know which Lipo I should use. (2.2)
Great vid cap! Love your load out and playstyle!
Thank you for maing this video. personally, I prefer springers, as I'm a mechanical engineering student, but I've wanted to get into flywheels for a while. what balancer/charger do you use/recomend? EDIT: Nevermind, I just heard you say that was in the next episode. Sorry
This was really helpful, thank you...
Flashbacks to high school math... scratching my head!!!
Fantastic video, Captain
Hello Captain Xavier, first of all I am a big fan of your work.
Just want to ask you,
I ordered a dominator and i plan to put 6 FangRv motors and a full auto kit, is a 3S lipo enough to do the job?
FangRv's are not 3s motors, they are 2s motors. What you need is a 2s motor with lots and lots of current. The current output of the battery must be equal or more than the combined stall currents of all 6 motors.
I'm thinking about installing a 2s lipo into a nerf rival charger as my first mod can you do a video where you do that please I really need help
Something that I'm confused about is if you need a battery that can output current equal to the total stall current of your motors, do you also need switches and wires that can handle that same total stall current. If I'm running 2 fang revamps, I need a 2S that can put out 56 amps, but do I also need a 56A rated microswitch and 56A rated wire (which I think is about 8 gauge)?
Logically, I would think that I do, but I've know that people run fang revamps on Omron switches (21A rating) and 16 gauge wire (12A I think); so I must be missing something here, what am I getting wrong?
In theory that would be correct. However, Omron switches and 18g wire is the standard and I have yet to have (or even hear of) any of them burning out. I suspect this is because Flywheel blasters tend to get fired in short bursts. If you ran one non-stop for the entire life of the battery you might burn out your switch.
hey cap!! I was wondering if you were a fan of or at least liked the TRON movies and/or show. I might 3D print a lightbike or two and was wondering if you wanted one! (Sorry I can't guarantee you'll get one because shipping is expensive)
Never seen any of it.
Captain Xavier thats too bad. They are pretty cool and if you get the chance you should check it out. Do you want me to send you one anyways??
Hey, where did you find the 2200 MaH Graphene? Is that a 2S? I could not find any graphene over 1000 MaH that was a soft shell. I want to run a Hyperfire on 3 fangs but that's the only battery with the current to do it.
Hobby King, I think. It is 3s...I say that...in the video...
Captain xavier im concerned about my modded nerf stryfe. I have a pair of mieshel 2.0 and the battery im using is a turnigy 2s lipo 1000mah 70c-150c with an xt30 connector. Im wondering why my stryfe heats up and im trying hard to look up about it but cant seem to find an answer that satisfy me. I hope you'll help thanks
What part is heating up? And after how much use?
@@CaptainXavier my motor heats up and it heats up after a couple of minutes of use
It starts up as warm and after shooting for a couple of times in a couple of minutes it then heats up like hot water (the kind of hot water where u use it on tea and coffee) . The battery doesn't heat up as well as the wires in the motors, the switch and the wires connected to the switch and lipo. The motors are the only thing in my stryfe that heats up
@@arvinlukedumalay3237 well, electric motors will do that when used. However, if it is enough that you can notice (not easy given that they are inside a plastic shell) that does suggest they are getting warmer than usual. It could be a wiring issue, a QA issue, the wheels might be on too tight or too loose and are rubbing and adding extra friction. Or it could be normal heat build up and you are just over thinking it. Do you have access to a control group?
I dont have access to a control group and i dont even know that is
Do your modded stryfe blasters noticeably heat up on the motor area or no?
Thank you for this video series, it has been very educational and helpful. However it is causing me all sorts of confusion. I currently use 9.6v 1600mAh batteries. They have a 10A discharge rate. There is nothing about current anywhere on them and the documentation I have found online is not helpful with a current level or explaining what 10A Discharge means. Do you know? In the past I have successfully run 2 Meichel 2.0s and 1 Rhino (pusher) in a Rapidstrike using this battery.
10A =10C. Different companies label it differently. C stands for Current. Current is measured in Amps. A stands for Amps.
BLAH. Thank you. That is abysmal.
i may have overheard it, but dit you adress constant current / burst current on lipos?
afaik, for the time motors draw the stall current, the burst C-rating of a lipo is enough and you don't have to have a lipo that can supply that as constant current.
I did not, because burst current is not standardized and it is not advised to build assuming that it is. Besides, flywheel blasters do not just hit stall currents are start up. They also spike (though not as high) every time a dart goes through the flywheels. As such it is simply better to build based on stall current rather than pushing the minimum limit and risking damage. There is no downside to having a battery with more potential current than needed but there is great risk if you don't have enough.
When it comes to Monday Mod Tips, could you do un edited builds and mods to some blasters so us shmucks can work as you go? I can't do Baron Shoty Pistol cause no offense, I can't follow. Mayhaps a series of Monday Mod Guides?
So I just picked up a stryfe and rapidstrike to use with my son. I dont really plan doing internal mods for now. Is it better to just get LiPos or use IMR/FRs?
If you are not doing internal upgrades IMRs are probably better. They are easier and work just fine with stock internals. To use LiPo you have to do some internal mods just to be able to plug the LiPo into the blaster.
The stryfe can take two IMRs and the Rapidstrike can take 3.
Regarding the sky rc balance charger. What are you using to power it. Mine came with only two alligator clips for the input power. Did yours come with a wall plug? How would you solve this issue?
Please help.
Mine too. I googled
@@CaptainXavier Aha, thank you.
So if I wanted a stryfe that shot below 150 feet which one should I use and which motors?
Any of them. It takes a lot to get a Stryfe over 150.
Ok which one would you recommend for a beginner?
How "beginner?"
Like never modded beginner.
Do you know how to solder? Do you have tools?
How can I discover the C-rating of a LiPo that doesn't have it on the battery itself? It's got the voltage (3.7v) and its capacity (650mAh) but neither the battery nor online listings state the C-rating.
The only other piece of information I have is that listings for the drone it came with say "flight time 6 minutes." Can you help? Thanks in advance.
3.7V means it's only 1S. Sadly without the proper testing equipment and electronics knowledge, the only way to know the C rating is if it's posted online somewhere.
It is possible but you're not going to like it...
physics.bu.edu/py106/notes/Ohm.html
Could you run multiple smaller LIpo to add up to the needs of multiple motors?
Yes, but it is dangerous. I will be covering Series vs Parallel in a later video.
is stall current really the current draw you need to look at? Isn't the stall current the current it's under when the load is so great the motor stops moving? We aren't doing that with flywheels, so why consider stall current?
Stall current is also the current when the motors are at rest. It is the current needed to get the flywheels moving.
That... makes sense actually. However that is a momentary burst. Batteries can usually handle a burst above their rating. So, wouldn't normal running current be more relevant?
Sure...assuming you never do anything to slow down the flywheels or make the motors work harder like, oh I don't know, put a dart through them... Everytime a dart passes through the flywheels the motors amp requirement spikes to overcome the added resistance. Also, burst current is not standardized so it is a bad idea to build based on it. FAR better and safer to build for worst case since there is no risk involved in having too much potential current while there is great risk in having too little.
Fair play. I suppose there is a chance of a dart getting stuck and stalling the motors. It would suck if a few seconds later your battery catches fire. So fair enough. Looking forward to your vid on battery care, I never understood why they have to be kept discharged when not in use.
I have a question: my stryfe uses a 7.4v 25C 1400mAh, I wired them with the stock motors (with all 4 resistors inside) and it spins just a little bit better if not same as 4 Alkalines. Is it because of the resistors inside? Or my battery is duh?
I kept resistors because I wanted to keep the stock motors safe.
Yes, it is probably the resistors. Also, keep in mind, a stock Stryfe operates on 6v. 7.4 is not that much more so the difference would not be significant.
@@CaptainXavier ah thank you :D I see.
Hey cap, did you try and shotgun the qira blaster? How is it preforming with K26?
I tried, it failed
Do you think that the regulator is a good stock blaster
Yes
I'd agree... When the mag actually sits correctly.
Regulator is a great stock blaster because of the select fire feature. As far as fps and distance the regulator underperforms to other flywheel blasters. Even with a Lipo upgrade the regulator still only hits about 80 fps, at least mine is hitting that fps with a straight 2s Lipo installed. I'm adding new cages, flywheels and revamped fangs and hopefully that will get closer to 130 fps. I'll have a video for that once I get all the parts in the mail, and a chronograph.
All this talk of cerial is making me hungry.
What battery should I use in a rapid strike with worker moters? I think the moters are rhinos.
...dude...the point of this video is so you can figure that out for yourself...
Wait, i'm supposed to drain the battery?
If i wanted to just convert to lipos for the sake of saving $ on buying batteries constantly, how would i find the specs for stock blaster motors? Are they all the same? Etc. Been looking online and cant find def. Answer.
I believe stock motors are 6v 3amp but don't quote me on that.
I will put a s3 in a tar 21 kit when i get it
I may be very wrong, But can't you divide your battery's current by the current draw of the motors to find about how many hours the battery will last?
Maybe? I am not entirely sure.
The mah rating of lipos is how long that battery will run. Given that our blasters don't run full throttle for extended periods the battery life will be determined by how you use the blaster.
I saw a Vulcan for $14 but I didt get there was no belt btw what is a flywheel blaster you would recommend from stock not for modding
Any Flywheel blaster is decent stock.
little queestion beside... u know any kv ratings of ur show'n motors??
I do not
daaaaaaaaaang... founding out that would be just to nice, cuz the kv rating show the fastness of the motors. More Kv = more faster fps but possibly bit less torque. lower kv = slower fps but more torque
(kv is the number of turns of the motor per volt)
Indeed. It has been tested and proved that past a certain RPM no gain is gotten because the darts just get shredded. This is why all the custom motors people have designed and gotten made spin at the RPM that they do.
aaah yey, already sawn that on my 4s lipo try's. But me is relativly new to the hobby.... coming from race drones :)
Anything about around 34k RPM is pointless in Nerf, from what I have seen.
Electronics are so complicated...there are so many numeric values you need to hold in mind. Current, power, capacity, numbered naming, discharge...man...
Is it weird that i had a dream where I saw you in a goodwill and we faught over a nerf rebel gun that shot rival darts?
...yes...very weird...you should see someone... ;P
Captain Xavier lol
Because of this comment, I might try to modify a rebelle to fire rival balls when I have money...
What do you recommend for the Worker stryfe mod kit?
I would recommend watching this video...and then figuring it out for yourself...that is kinda the point of this video...
lol
Can you mod the max d 4000 like what blo no did with the 2000
Can I run two fang reVAMPs on a 25c 2200 mAH battery
...dude...that is literally what this video teachs...I give the formula AND all the numbers for revamps...just do the math. I am not your personal calculator...
What are your thoughts on over volting motors?
It is a bad idea.
Thanks
Which 2s lipo will fit in a stryfe
The .95 mAh 2s.
Hey cap you didn't respond to my last comment on your last video it was about my broken atlas I found busted atlas that had a plunger tube that I used to replace my broken atlas plunger tube which is great but I was wondering if you wanted the rest of the parts all the internals were fine except know it doesn't have a plunger tube and it has half of a pump grip if you don't want it please ask if any of your friends want it thanks captain .
Not really. I have plenty of spare parts as it is.
Ok thanks
So three fangrevs wouldn’t be good for a 2s?
Watch the video and pay attention. FangRVs are designed for 2s, but you have to get a high enough C-rating and mAH. A 2s 1000mAH 65C battery is not enough. But a 2s 1500mAH 65C would be.
what gauge of wire should i use for a 2s
Long answer? That question does not, in fact, make any sense. The battery does not matter by itself. What matters is the battery AND what it is powering. It is not voltage you have to worry about. It is current. And current is not determined by the battery but rather by what the battery is powering. A single lower amp motor like a Honey Badger can run on stock wiring. Whereas 3 Fang ReVamps would melt stock wires and switches.
Short answer? Go with at least 18g.
@@CaptainXavier thanks i thought gauge was based of batteries. Rephrasing the question what gauge would i need for Meishel 2.0 motors
@@bluebear121 again, long answer? How many? The more motors, the more amperage required, the more current drawn, and thus the thicker the wire needs to be.
Short answer? Go with at least 18g.
Another great video form Captain Xavier keep up the good work 😎🍕🤘🔫
How do I know which one to buy for my gun? Do any of them work
...that is quite literally what this video explains...
But which aspect are you confused on?
Captain Xavier I mean I don’t know how to put it in the gun and do I need a motor?
Captain Xavier I can use any lipo in any gun
why would it be bad to run a low c rating battery on a high stall current motor? i run a tiny 1amp/hr 2s on my 2 fang motor 1 stock motor rapidstrike
Fangs are a 3s motor, do you mean Fang Revamped motors? The motors 'pull' current from the battery. If the battery cannot keep up they can overheat which will reduce the longevity of the battery and possibly cause a short in the battery which can lead to it's failure (soemtimes a nasty fire). If you are using FangRV motors, the stall current for those is 28A each (at 2S) so the total is 56A. I think the stock motors are about 5 or so. Lets say 60A total. This is stall current though, ie when you stall the motors (like when the blaster jams and you keep your finger on the rev trigger) or momentarily at startup. So as long as your battery can cope with the stall current, you are all good. Conversely if you never stall the motors, you're probably fine hence most people don't see an issue when running under-specced batteries. But it's a risk all the same which can be avoided entirely by using a higher rated battery. LiPo batteries usually have a constant C rating and a burst rating. The burst rating is a higher discharge figure the battery can handle in short bursts (up to 10sec I think). Many LiPos show both (eg 25C-40C on a battery would indicate up to 25C constant discharge and up to 40C burst discharge). If the battery only has a single figure on the label it is most often the constant figure.
So in your case a 65C constant discharge rating on a battery will cover you if you are stalling the motors all the time such as when kids get a jam and figure keeping their finger on the trigger will clear it (you're switches and wiring probably won't be happy about it though), whereas a 40C-75C battery would cope with the occasional stall that is more the norm.
John Jeffrey ah okay, I am running both the og fangs and the fangRV motors, thank you so much for clearing this up for me, this makes a lot of sense and also explains why so many of my stock motors die when I try messing with them lol
You did not give us the C-rating of the battery. Just the voltage and mHA.
It's the basic turnigy batteries, 20-30c
You cannot damage the motor(s) with an under specc'd battery, it just won't perform as well. The motors draw current from the battery and the battery pushes voltage to the motors (simply put) so you damage the motors by pushing too many volts through them or damage the battery by trying to pull too many amps from it. Stock motors are designed for lower voltages, generally 4.8-6V (alkalines might be 1.5V but they drop to 1.2V pretty quick) so pushing 2S (7.4V) though them will shorten their lives eventually and more rapidly the more volts you push through them. Again depends on the motor though, a Barricade runs on 3 alkalines (so 3.6-4.5V) but their motors seem pretty happy running on 3S (11.1V) also.
Does anyone know of a good Lipo + charger that could sufficiently power a select fire kit with fangs revamped without shorting out the kit
I do
Captain Xavier Would you be willing to elaborate?? 🙏🙏
I would
Will you elaborate??
Sometime within the next year would be nice👀
Any 2S LiPo with enough current will work as long as you get the v6 selectfire kit (it uses MosFets and so should not burn out)
does serial = series?
Yes
I moved from rc rockcrawling to nerf :p so I have a lot of lipo’s laying around so I thought fuck it and decided to look into lipo+nerf
I have an insanely expensive Lipo that is a 2s with 2200 m AH with the package of a bit over 2 c batteries
Well I don't think 32 bucks is insanely expensive but still expensive
Current is a bit low with a current of 55
Thanks!
❤
..but I hate how I can notice a difference between 20c and 30c rated batteries but not 40c and 65c.... there are always lies in how batteries are advertised
Yup. They fudge the numbers hard. But also, once you get that high you have to work hard to over draw the current. Which is why all my batteries are 65c.
Can u do a tutorial? Cause I'm a complete noob
...this IS a tutorial for complete noobs...
@@CaptainXavier I mean a tutorial of installing it
@@andersonng1709 I have several tutorials on how to rewire blasters to take LiPos. I have a whole series of videos called Nerf Rewired that are only that. I have a Stryfe rewire in which I show every step.
@@CaptainXavier aight imma subscribe and learn the ways of modding
Hey dad
I am just lazy
Hi again cap
hi
He spelled current wrong
Yup...I did. And I cannot be bothered to fix it.
Hi
hi
Captain Xavier I find it rather ironic, given the fact that you literally are made sick by playing them, that the adverts TH-cam has chosen to show me for the last four or five of your videos are for first-person-shooter video games.
Also, on a separate topic... You mentioned Tyr operating on those big LiPo batteries. How much run time can Tyr get on a full charge from those?
No idea, never ran it long enough to run out...and I have run it for a full tank. It uses two of them. One for the blaster and one for the backpack.
AND yeahh
I Can I get a Broken Nerd GUN
What Lopo would I need to run 132 Motors
Depends on the specs of the motor. Some 132's are 2s others are 3s.