If your lipo ever bulges or gets round DON’T RE-CHARGE OR DE-CHAEGE IT and DON’T USE IT. You can ether put it in a safe spot not flammable to de-charge your battery before you throw it away. The rounding can be caused by time, misuse or wrong storage such as hot areas and cold areas and never leave it in a plaster.
I highly reccomend the lipo battery alarms that out of darts sells. They make me have absolute confindince when running ym modded blasters on a lipo battery.
I have a Turnigy Accucell S60 which is absolutely brilliant, it's a really good price from HobbyKing, is really small and has an option to connect to your PC to update the firmware for the charger and an application that shows a graph of the cell charge, balance charge and storage charge, it comes with an XT-60 c onnector as standard, a 10 battery memory, charges all types of batteries, fast charge (not reccomended), balance charge (use that one), storage charge (necessary in my opinion) and a discharge option, it shows battery resistance and how "full" a battery is, including each cell, it'll charge a 2S to 4S LiPo//LiHv/LiFe/LiOn or 6S-8S NiMH/NiCd and 6-12v Pb, up to 60 Watts charge and 10 Watts Discharge if your battery can handle it (you can set it to what your battery manufacturer recommends) and trickle charges 50mA-300mA and shows the charge of each cell as well as total battery charge and a temperature sensor for safety with a timer and temperature cutoff and it makes sure all the cells charge evenly. The battery memory allows you to keep your settings, like charge and discharge current, I've only got 3 types of LiPo, so I can store all the Battery charging info with 7 memory slots to spare for any other LiPo's or whatever. A balance lead extender is really useful (I'd say essesntial as they're only a couple of your US dollars for a 2S or 3S extender) for obvious reasons, like charging a Lipo in a LiPo safe bag as the balance lead tends to be quite short compared to the charge/discharge leads. I pretty much only use 2S LiPo's, sometimes a 3S. but you'd probably never need anything bigger than a 3S charger for Nerf applicatuions. I also always use a LiPo-safe bag for charging and a storage box to keep them in safely. The Accucell S60 is the one a lot of Nerfers use and LiPo bags are really cheap and necessary in my opinion. Rubber caps are also really useful as you can pop them on your XT-60 connectors and they come in red and green to remind you which LiPo's are charged and which need storage (or balance charging if you intend to use them). I would never buy another charger and probably won't have to as this one is excellent value but not in quality as it's a Turnigy, packed with features and really solidly built with many safety features and options and is probably the best LiPo charger I've ever seen, seeing as I don't use anything insane like a 10S LiPo. Switching to LiPo needn't be that expensive, as a good Zippy Compact 2S 2200mAh 60C Lipo (132 amps) is about the same price as 8 premium rechargeable AA cells, but so much more powerful. It's definitely worth transitioning to LiPo from the savings alone, once you have a charger and any bits you need, the batteries are really cheap on HobbyKing for good quality LiPo's like Zippy Compacts and Turnigy batteries. You just need to respect the batteries and take good care of them and they'll last ages! Look after them and they'll look after you. I swear by this charger The last thing you want is a self-oxidising LiPo fire!
I too have the Turnigy Accucell s60, and I was wondering what your internal temperature sensor reads during discharge to storage. Mine get's quite high, and I'm wondering if my charger may be malfunctioning...
Phoenix Nerf if it feels hot, you'll notice, the main sensor measures the internal temperature of the charger, not the battery, the charger is fine as long as the temperature isn't ridiculous, but with the external battery temperature sensor, that's the one that shouldn't go over 50 or 60 c, but there is an extra sensor you can buy to attach to the LiPo, but generally if the battery feels hot in your hand, it should be around 60 c which is when you just put a fan by the LiPo or keep it near an open window and let the breeze cool it down, I've never had mine get more than about 30c., the charger mainly gets got when discharging or lowering the charge to storage.
I just recently bought a $50 charger almost exactly like the one in this video, the ability to charge AND discharge lipos is worth the money, but I recently compared lipo to NiMh batteries and didn't notice toooo much of a drop in performance (maybe 25%) but considering the only place I play is strictly cqb, considering NiMh batteries don't need to be discharged, don't usually explode, charge faster, make them more worth the money to me, now I just have to find a reason to keep the $150 or so I have invested in lipo batteries
Nice job on this video, Cap! I’ve learned a lot about LiPo batteries just from watching this video, and I just want to say thanks for the help that this video has provided to me and so many other Nerfers.
Another tip have a Li-Po balance plug extender attached the charger so both the power and balance cables are close to the same length. The power lead on the Li-Po is fairly long, but the balance lead is exteremly short, make it tricky to have the battery in a container while its on the charger.
I use an instant coffee jar :-). Drill a 13mm hole in the metal lid and pass the balance wire out through it, when charging and that's it. True, I cannot be responsible if anything bad happens (disclaimer..) but hey, glass doesn't burn.
Great info. LiPo Batteries are inexpensive but now I look into the chargers to get a balanced charger isn't that cheap? Edit I see them for $30-50 on amazon so maybe not. So maybe for casual non-NERF War Stock Rapidstrikes I use rechargeable C batteries instead of what some recommend is a 1300mAh 2S 20C Lipo Pack 7.4v hooked to the battery compartment springs with no heavy gauge mod wires or motors. I noticed when the regular Energizer Max C batteries are at about 75% on a battery tester the pusher motor and flywheel motors slow down just enough that darts jam. Have you ever bothered to use rechargeable Alkaline batteries prior to modding with LiPo's?
Quick question on use & storage. Is it okay to use a battery at a storage charge if you aren’t using it more than say 5 - 10 minutes of burst usage (not continuous use). If I fully charge my battery for first time use, and it’s only for that short time, then I go back to storage charge the battery, is that safe or does that wear out the battery more?
Another important factor is the amps that you charge your batteries at. Meaning the speed that the charger is charging and therefore how long it takes. For most LIPO batteries, the amps you charge at should never exceed the capacity (ah) rating of the battery. For example a 2200mah battery should not be charged at more than 2.2 amps. This example includes the two batteries that I've been charging at 5 amps for some time and have basically ruined them. They still function but the voltage drops off far faster than they should (As if they were 1/3 the size) and due to the damage they have taken, aren't really safe to use anymore. Bear in mind that some lipos have a much lower charge limit, and some have higher ones, so it is best to see what is recommended by the oem/seller
Indeed. Everything I have seen (which admittedly is not everything) has said to charge at 1c, so that is what I demonstrated in the video. Things vary from charger to charger and battery to battery, which is why I mentioned doing your own research. :)
So question I have an 800mAh 2S... I think 20C graphene lipo. My charger lets me set the "max current" (this is a bit from memory, sorry). So I've tried to match all the settings to the battery: 2S (obviously), lipo, 800mA max current. But after I do a Balanced Charge the lipo is at like 650mAh (but 8.4V at least). Is it normal not to hit that 800mA cap?
the "650mah" is most likely not what is in the battery, but what has been charged this time by the charger. This is how my charger does it. Take a look at 7:58 Xaviers charger has fully charged that battery by putting 13mah into it. Clearly 13mah isn't the full capacity of the battery, simply that it has gained an extra 13mah this time it has been charged. Most batteries, lipos included, drop voltage when they are close to empty, so even if there is technically more electricity in there trying to get out, it's not trying very hard to do so. In almost all cases it's better to change a battery at this point rather than to try to drain it fully. It also means the batteries last longer.
just something a firefighting friend of mine told me if a LiPo does catch fire, stay away from it as it burns it will produce a lot of toxic fumes and should be thrown in a bucket of water to contain fumes and hopefully cool down the battery. if the battery cools the fire should go out as it produce its own oxygen from the chemical reaction though it is a last resort type of thing. but at the same time I have read that you should not throw water on it, it seem submerging it is best and then staying away from it never seen a LiPo fire myself just when talking about with him while talking nerf is what he was told to do and if forced to approach to wear his gas mask to avoid inhaling any of the fumes
Waht do u think of a mega rival blaster- essenrually a motorized tennis ball flywhell shooter, but u shove foam stress balls in It would be more of a fun blaster than a practical one
When disconnecting your LiPo from the charger, ALWAYS disconnect from the XT60 or various other battery connector before disconnecting the leads. NEVER disconnect the two separate leads from the charger first. You run the risk of them touching and this would result in shorting out your battery.
Captain Xavier Will there be a video for LiFe batteries, as well? I've recently started seeing people talk about them online for Nerfing, but haven't read up on them yet. The people I've seen talking about them are pretty enthusiastic about them, particularly in the area of safety of use and storage.
Captain Xavier LiFe batteries are different, as I understand it. LiFe batteries are apparently a lithium iron polymer (Fe being the atomic symbol for iron, I suppose). From what I've been seeing, it's supposed to be safer and more stable than normal LiPo batteries, though with a bit lower performance (I've seen arguing over how much lower, but it seems like 15-20% lower or thereabouts is close.) I've not had time to read anything technical about them but a quick browse of Amazon showed me that they are at least marketed as a separate type of battery from Li-Ion and LiPo.
Captain Xavier •counter-sigh• I know, I watched it. More than once. It's a 13 minute video, and about 10:30 of it is discussing- quite rightly- why to never bring TrustFire batteries (and especially their knock-offs) anywhere near a blaster. (Maybe glue discharged ones to the shell as decorations...? Only viable use, really.) You spent about 1:45 on LiFe batteries, and all you really said was that the AA LiFe are better than other AA, and that running AA LiFe is not as efficient as a 2S or 3S LiPo. You didn't say anything at all about multi-cell LiFe batteries, charging, maintenance, longevity... It felt like you glossed over them. If you're not going to cover them, that's fine. I'm no one to complain- you put out what is known, in many measurement scales, as a "whopping crapload" of informative, entertaining videos. Anyone who expects you to cover EVERYTHING is in need of a good shaking, lol. I was just asking if they were getting a thorough coverage like LiPo batteries, which now have had two dedicated videos of significant length- one on the basics and the selection of a proper one for your blaster, and this one on storage and charging.
Captain Xavier Oh, almost forgot! The Wife and I should be sending your care package out either tomorrow or Thursday. I gotta get the box built before we can ship it, lol... There's some awkwardly sized items, I couldn't find one that wouldn't just be a mess inside. I'm putting it together right now- well, trying. I can't go too fast, the adhesives and paint need SOME time to dry, lol! ;)
This is why I prefer springers... though I AM thinking of picking up a Hyperfire to turn into a "Condemner-Pattern Boltgun" with an integrated Wrathbolt. What's a good battery-option for a Hyperfire?
Gotcha... so let's say I'm just using the stock-motors... my ability to re-wire blasters is next to nil, so no Hellcats with LiPos or any of these high-performance critters. The stock-motors on a Hyperfire are pretty hoss to begin with. I've seen AMRs with D-size adaptors improve the performance, but I'm also thinking "Screw it, might as well just stick to some old-fashioned rechargable D's." I've always been "once bitten, twice shy" when it comes to flywheel blasters. I bought a Barricade one cold winter's eve... the pusher-mechanism jammed on me almost immediately. But I've got a bead on a Hyperfire along with a Vagabond I plan on turning into "Grandpap's Old-Timey Squirrel Rifle."
The downside to recharable D cells is that they are a slightly lower voltage than regular D cells. Fresh of the charger they may be a little higher but not for long. You can use IMRs. It could probably handle 3 well enough for a while. But there are hard limits to what a stock blaster can handle before you burn something out.
I gotcha... yeah, I don't NEED to get crazy-insane performance out of my blasters. I want my blasters to be something I can bring to HVZ and public parks... ya know, stuff I can feel comfortable using around children. And I'd rather replace batteries than have to gut the beast just to replace motors and wiring. My dad's the electrician... me? Not so much. But yeah... the end result of this Hyperfire mod is going to be something like this. The "Condemner-Pattern Boltgun" of Inquisitor Katarina Greyfax. vignette.wikia.nocookie.net/warhammer40k/images/1/1f/Greyfax.jpg/revision/latest?cb=20170501070314
LiPo is expensive here in Aus, so I'm holding off adopting it until im either nerfing constantly or really have 100+ dollars spare to spend on it. Also, I have a question about LiPo and storage. How long is it safe to keep a battery in storage, provided you charge it to storage voltage? Is there any limit, or is it safe to store forever? It's nice to see proper care theory though, it has been difficult trying to sift it all out through all the various places around the internet, so thanks for that.
If only there was a Website you could type these questions into and get answers... ;P I am not an expert by any means. I highly encourage you to do your own research. I assume they can be stored for very long periods of times at storage voltages since there is really no other option. If you drain it completely it will never recharge. But how long is going to vary from battery to battery. It is recommended you put them at storage voltage if they are going to sit for even a week so probably after every time you use it.
Alright cool, so it is relatively dependent on the manufacturer or the battery itself? either way, It would appear I have some research to do. Thanks for setting me in the right direction, I appreciate it.
Most LipO's will stay in storage mode and keep their charge at storage for a good 6 months, retaining at least 85% of theirstorage power power, especially good quality LiPo's, I use a Pocket Cell Checker every so often to check the voltage is within safety margins and if not, I'll pop them on storage charge which can only take a few minutes, it's best to be safe. LiPo's aren't going to murder you in your sleep though, there has been a lot of scaremongering by idiots who drive a 6" nail through a pack in order to "prove their point", these people are morons who shouldn't be allowed near an AA consumer cell, let alone a LiPo. Tom from Foam Data Services has a good video or two on LiPo safety and care, so I would recommend them as extra viewing to this if you still have any unanswered questions or need to know more.
What I have heard is when storing a pack it is good to cycle the pack one time a month, that means fully charge them then bring them back to storage, this helps to prevent the pack from self draining below 3.3 volts per cell
I got 2 things. 1. How to calculate total use time for a 3s 1 amp/hour 25 c Lipo powering 2 rhinos 2. If the total volts for a 3s is 11.1, that would only give me 3 volts of wiggle room before I have to recharge at 7.1 volts? I don't want any of the cells to drop below 3.2, so 7.1 just doesn't seem like a lot. Or can I push it all the way to 3.2 total volts in the entire battery?
1. It will run for 1/ hrs. 2. Just get a voltage alarm (they are small and cheap) and recharge when it goes off. Pushing your LiPo past its safety limits will damage it.
That is 2 minutes (give or take) and constant rev. You generally only rev and fire for a few seconds at a time. So 2 minutes is a lot longer than you think. Typically unless you are running a Proton Pack a LiPo will last most of an event unless you are just relentlessly mag dumping.
Greetings Capitan. I have a question. I bought 2 lipo batteries (one year ago and one half year ago). I didnt knew better and charged them fully as soon as I got them (I did what I was told to in the store). Right now, I'm not able to check on them and won't be able for next month. Should I ask someone to check on thier sytuation or should I wait untill I will be able to do it myself?
Captain Xavier even if there is no observable diffrence at a first glance, should i ask them to get rid off it (for example to a battery utilizeing point) or should i have look at them myself in a month? I'm mostly concerned about the whole "explodeing thing" so I want to pick the safest option. Thank you for answering my comment, Capitan. I hope you will have a wonderfull day.
No, if there is no very obvious swelling they are fine. Generally they won't explode from sitting too long. The bigger risk is that they will become damaged and not recharge properly anymore.
I have the exact same LiPo charger but mine does not alert me of the completion of my LiPo’s charge. Is there anything you can think of that I might be doing wrong??? I do not believe the product is defective as I bought it from a very reputable website but I have been wrong before.
That information should have been in the instructions that came with the charger. Use .9 It never hurts to charge at a lower setting. Charging at a higher setting can be catastrophic.
i have the imax b6 mini charger. when i try to use my turnigy lipo it says cell error voltage invalid even though i put it in perfectly according to to lipos label. does anyone know why?
Storage Limits? Is there a limit to how long a battery can be left in Storage mode? after too long in storage can it self-discharge to a dangerous point? What are the dangers of leaving a battery sitting without first putting it to Storage mode? is there a safe time frame to leave a battery charged before it Needs to go Storage? Wondering this for 'casual' usage; where you aren't playing games on a schedule where you can just charge up the night before, store after. But would rather just pick up and put down the blaster whenever with totally random time intervals between. Maybe you get bored for a week and don't touch it. Maybe its every day. etc
@@CaptainXavier Well, from looking at RC Car forums answers vary; but in general the consensus is do not leave a Charged Lipo sitting idle for more than approx 48hours; put it in Storage mode before then. The consequences of Not doing so are a bit fuzzy though... At any rate; this pattern of 'fully charge when you want to use it' 'storage charge when done' and having to monitor; does Not fit my play patterns. I want to be able to pick up a blaster at a whim and plink targets. Obviously having to chargup beforehand precludes that pattern. And leaving it Charged Always on the off chance that I get that whim any given day is Bad. It seems that Lipo is Not a good choice for Very Casual Users. Do you have any thoughts on alternative power supplies that can still drive modded blasters with high current, yet don't have the maintenance requirements for safety? I understand that the Community is gravitating towards Lipo; anyplace I ask the answer seems to be that Lipo is the "Right" way to do things. But is that really all there is? It doesn't sound 'right' for the use pattern I described.. Obviously there would be some tradeoff; likely size or weight. But I'm open to that kind of compromise, just have no idea where to start looking. its just nothing but LIpo recommendations everyplace I look....
More info for Prosperity: found an article that suggests the Storage Charge inconvenience may be ignoreable: www.propwashed.com/lipo-storage-voltage/ or at the very least, the consequence of not doing the Storage, is reduced battery life, not explosions.
Oh, ok. By the way that minigun is neat. Are there any Nerf guns that are minigun, that I could just purchase. I'd perfer if the barrel spins, but I don't count the vulcan.
Not Nerf, no. But there are several off brand options. TYR is made out of an Air Warriors Punisher. The Scorpion also have rotating barrels as does the Cyclonic.
Which would you prefer and if I were to buy it what else would you recommend me getting. I have seen the scorpion but do you have a review on it or no.
![NISAMANEE - TADA (ท้าดา) [ OFFICIAL MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hcQHEPMmJpU/mqdefault.jpg)
If your lipo ever bulges or gets round DON’T RE-CHARGE OR DE-CHAEGE IT and DON’T USE IT. You can ether put it in a safe spot not flammable to de-charge your battery before you throw it away. The rounding can be caused by time, misuse or wrong storage such as hot areas and cold areas and never leave it in a plaster.
Thanks, I forgot to mention swelling...
Captain Xavier also what about a chemical extinguisher what that work
No idea. Google it?
am trying to find a tamiya connector charger, am getting deans, but i need a tamiya XD
Seriously Captain, thank you for this. Im sitting here struggling with all of this fancy Flywheel battery stuff.
I highly reccomend the lipo battery alarms that out of darts sells. They make me have absolute confindince when running ym modded blasters on a lipo battery.
The rc community would be a good place to start as they have been using lipos for years, a good example would be flitetest on TH-cam
I have a Turnigy Accucell S60 which is absolutely brilliant, it's a really good price from HobbyKing, is really small and has an option to connect to your PC to update the firmware for the charger and an application that shows a graph of the cell charge, balance charge and storage charge, it comes with an XT-60 c onnector as standard, a 10 battery memory, charges all types of batteries, fast charge (not reccomended), balance charge (use that one), storage charge (necessary in my opinion) and a discharge option, it shows battery resistance and how "full" a battery is, including each cell, it'll charge a 2S to 4S LiPo//LiHv/LiFe/LiOn or 6S-8S NiMH/NiCd and 6-12v Pb, up to 60 Watts charge and 10 Watts Discharge if your battery can handle it (you can set it to what your battery manufacturer recommends) and trickle charges 50mA-300mA and shows the charge of each cell as well as total battery charge and a temperature sensor for safety with a timer and temperature cutoff and it makes sure all the cells charge evenly.
The battery memory allows you to keep your settings, like charge and discharge current, I've only got 3 types of LiPo, so I can store all the Battery charging info with 7 memory slots to spare for any other LiPo's or whatever.
A balance lead extender is really useful (I'd say essesntial as they're only a couple of your US dollars for a 2S or 3S extender) for obvious reasons, like charging a Lipo in a LiPo safe bag as the balance lead tends to be quite short compared to the charge/discharge leads.
I pretty much only use 2S LiPo's, sometimes a 3S. but you'd probably never need anything bigger than a 3S charger for Nerf applicatuions.
I also always use a LiPo-safe bag for charging and a storage box to keep them in safely.
The Accucell S60 is the one a lot of Nerfers use and LiPo bags are really cheap and necessary in my opinion.
Rubber caps are also really useful as you can pop them on your XT-60 connectors and they come in red and green to remind you which LiPo's are charged and which need storage (or balance charging if you intend to use them).
I would never buy another charger and probably won't have to as this one is excellent value but not in quality as it's a Turnigy, packed with features and really solidly built with many safety features and options and is probably the best LiPo charger I've ever seen, seeing as I don't use anything insane like a 10S LiPo.
Switching to LiPo needn't be that expensive, as a good Zippy Compact 2S 2200mAh 60C Lipo (132 amps) is about the same price as 8 premium rechargeable AA cells, but so much more powerful.
It's definitely worth transitioning to LiPo from the savings alone, once you have a charger and any bits you need, the batteries are really cheap on HobbyKing for good quality LiPo's like Zippy Compacts and Turnigy batteries.
You just need to respect the batteries and take good care of them and they'll last ages!
Look after them and they'll look after you. I swear by this charger
The last thing you want is a self-oxidising LiPo fire!
I too have the Turnigy Accucell s60, and I was wondering what your internal temperature sensor reads during discharge to storage. Mine get's quite high, and I'm wondering if my charger may be malfunctioning...
Phoenix Nerf if it feels hot, you'll notice, the main sensor measures the internal temperature of the charger, not the battery, the charger is fine as long as the temperature isn't ridiculous, but with the external battery temperature sensor, that's the one that shouldn't go over 50 or 60 c, but there is an extra sensor you can buy to attach to the LiPo, but generally if the battery feels hot in your hand, it should be around 60 c which is when you just put a fan by the LiPo or keep it near an open window and let the breeze cool it down, I've never had mine get more than about 30c., the charger mainly gets got when discharging or lowering the charge to storage.
Thanks so much! That helps a lot!
This is the most detailed and most helpful TH-cam comment I’ve ever read!!! Thank you.
No worries, anything to be of service.
WOW, thank you so much for teaching me all of this info I really needed it.
Charles Randall same, I just got into running Lipo batteries( I used to do imrs) and this helps so much
I just recently bought a $50 charger almost exactly like the one in this video, the ability to charge AND discharge lipos is worth the money, but I recently compared lipo to NiMh batteries and didn't notice toooo much of a drop in performance (maybe 25%) but considering the only place I play is strictly cqb, considering NiMh batteries don't need to be discharged, don't usually explode, charge faster, make them more worth the money to me, now I just have to find a reason to keep the $150 or so I have invested in lipo batteries
Nice job on this video, Cap! I’ve learned a lot about LiPo batteries just from watching this video, and I just want to say thanks for the help that this video has provided to me and so many other Nerfers.
Another tip have a Li-Po balance plug extender attached the charger so both the power and balance cables are close to the same length.
The power lead on the Li-Po is fairly long, but the balance lead is exteremly short, make it tricky to have the battery in a container while its on the charger.
I've used lipo batteries in my stampede since last year, and this was still helpful. Thank you!
Love the Monday mod tips series! Thanks for the insightful video
I was eagerly awaiting this video. Was not disappointed. Still sounds pretty daunting, but seems like it sounds more daunting than it actually is.
I use an instant coffee jar :-). Drill a 13mm hole in the metal lid and pass the balance wire out through it, when charging and that's it. True, I cannot be responsible if anything bad happens (disclaimer..) but hey, glass doesn't burn.
Great info. LiPo Batteries are inexpensive but now I look into the chargers to get a balanced charger isn't that cheap? Edit I see them for $30-50 on amazon so maybe not. So maybe for casual non-NERF War Stock Rapidstrikes I use rechargeable C batteries instead of what some recommend is a 1300mAh 2S 20C Lipo Pack 7.4v hooked to the battery compartment springs with no heavy gauge mod wires or motors. I noticed when the regular Energizer Max C batteries are at about 75% on a battery tester the pusher motor and flywheel motors slow down just enough that darts jam. Have you ever bothered to use rechargeable Alkaline batteries prior to modding with LiPo's?
This is literally every item I just ordered from Amazon except for the bag. I got the one with separate compartments so they don't touch.
When I got my first lipo, being the idiot I am, I shorted it out and it nearly exploded. We were able to dispose of it, though, before it exploded.
Quick question on use & storage. Is it okay to use a battery at a storage charge if you aren’t using it more than say 5 - 10 minutes of burst usage (not continuous use). If I fully charge my battery for first time use, and it’s only for that short time, then I go back to storage charge the battery, is that safe or does that wear out the battery more?
Another important factor is the amps that you charge your batteries at. Meaning the speed that the charger is charging and therefore how long it takes.
For most LIPO batteries, the amps you charge at should never exceed the capacity (ah) rating of the battery. For example a 2200mah battery should not be charged at more than 2.2 amps. This example includes the two batteries that I've been charging at 5 amps for some time and have basically ruined them. They still function but the voltage drops off far faster than they should (As if they were 1/3 the size) and due to the damage they have taken, aren't really safe to use anymore.
Bear in mind that some lipos have a much lower charge limit, and some have higher ones, so it is best to see what is recommended by the oem/seller
Indeed. Everything I have seen (which admittedly is not everything) has said to charge at 1c, so that is what I demonstrated in the video. Things vary from charger to charger and battery to battery, which is why I mentioned doing your own research. :)
So question I have an 800mAh 2S... I think 20C graphene lipo. My charger lets me set the "max current" (this is a bit from memory, sorry). So I've tried to match all the settings to the battery: 2S (obviously), lipo, 800mA max current. But after I do a Balanced Charge the lipo is at like 650mAh (but 8.4V at least). Is it normal not to hit that 800mA cap?
I have no idea...
the "650mah" is most likely not what is in the battery, but what has been charged this time by the charger. This is how my charger does it.
Take a look at 7:58 Xaviers charger has fully charged that battery by putting 13mah into it. Clearly 13mah isn't the full capacity of the battery, simply that it has gained an extra 13mah this time it has been charged.
Most batteries, lipos included, drop voltage when they are close to empty, so even if there is technically more electricity in there trying to get out, it's not trying very hard to do so. In almost all cases it's better to change a battery at this point rather than to try to drain it fully. It also means the batteries last longer.
Ah, that makes sense. Thanks!
just something a firefighting friend of mine told me if a LiPo does catch fire, stay away from it as it burns it will produce a lot of toxic fumes and should be thrown in a bucket of water to contain fumes and hopefully cool down the battery. if the battery cools the fire should go out as it produce its own oxygen from the chemical reaction
though it is a last resort type of thing. but at the same time I have read that you should not throw water on it, it seem submerging it is best and then staying away from it
never seen a LiPo fire myself just when talking about with him while talking nerf is what he was told to do and if forced to approach to wear his gas mask to avoid inhaling any of the fumes
If the battery is cool in water it will still burn until it runs out of lithium because that will combust when placed in water
Waht do u think of a mega rival blaster- essenrually a motorized tennis ball flywhell shooter, but u shove foam stress balls in
It would be more of a fun blaster than a practical one
that... that would definitely hurt..
What's the brand of the charger ur using?
If possible, can u give me a link to buy it
outofdarts.com/collections/batteries-chargers/products/imax-b6ac-lipo-charger-with-us-plug
When disconnecting your LiPo from the charger, ALWAYS disconnect from the XT60 or various other battery connector before disconnecting the leads. NEVER disconnect the two separate leads from the charger first. You run the risk of them touching and this would result in shorting out your battery.
i charge on the concrete in a pouch
you can buy a lipo aka fore resistant bag from out of darts shop online
Yes
Captain Xavier Will there be a video for LiFe batteries, as well? I've recently started seeing people talk about them online for Nerfing, but haven't read up on them yet. The people I've seen talking about them are pretty enthusiastic about them, particularly in the area of safety of use and storage.
Another one? I already covered Lithium Ion Batteries.
Captain Xavier LiFe batteries are different, as I understand it. LiFe batteries are apparently a lithium iron polymer (Fe being the atomic symbol for iron, I suppose). From what I've been seeing, it's supposed to be safer and more stable than normal LiPo batteries, though with a bit lower performance (I've seen arguing over how much lower, but it seems like 15-20% lower or thereabouts is close.) I've not had time to read anything technical about them but a quick browse of Amazon showed me that they are at least marketed as a separate type of battery from Li-Ion and LiPo.
*sigh Yes...they are different...and I cover them, in my video on Lithium-Ion batteries...
Captain Xavier •counter-sigh• I know, I watched it. More than once. It's a 13 minute video, and about 10:30 of it is discussing- quite rightly- why to never bring TrustFire batteries (and especially their knock-offs) anywhere near a blaster. (Maybe glue discharged ones to the shell as decorations...? Only viable use, really.) You spent about 1:45 on LiFe batteries, and all you really said was that the AA LiFe are better than other AA, and that running AA LiFe is not as efficient as a 2S or 3S LiPo. You didn't say anything at all about multi-cell LiFe batteries, charging, maintenance, longevity... It felt like you glossed over them.
If you're not going to cover them, that's fine. I'm no one to complain- you put out what is known, in many measurement scales, as a "whopping crapload" of informative, entertaining videos. Anyone who expects you to cover EVERYTHING is in need of a good shaking, lol. I was just asking if they were getting a thorough coverage like LiPo batteries, which now have had two dedicated videos of significant length- one on the basics and the selection of a proper one for your blaster, and this one on storage and charging.
Captain Xavier Oh, almost forgot! The Wife and I should be sending your care package out either tomorrow or Thursday. I gotta get the box built before we can ship it, lol... There's some awkwardly sized items, I couldn't find one that wouldn't just be a mess inside. I'm putting it together right now- well, trying. I can't go too fast, the adhesives and paint need SOME time to dry, lol! ;)
This is why I prefer springers... though I AM thinking of picking up a Hyperfire to turn into a "Condemner-Pattern Boltgun" with an integrated Wrathbolt. What's a good battery-option for a Hyperfire?
Depends on what motors you use. You have to match your motors to your battery or vice versus.
Gotcha... so let's say I'm just using the stock-motors... my ability to re-wire blasters is next to nil, so no Hellcats with LiPos or any of these high-performance critters. The stock-motors on a Hyperfire are pretty hoss to begin with. I've seen AMRs with D-size adaptors improve the performance, but I'm also thinking "Screw it, might as well just stick to some old-fashioned rechargable D's."
I've always been "once bitten, twice shy" when it comes to flywheel blasters. I bought a Barricade one cold winter's eve... the pusher-mechanism jammed on me almost immediately. But I've got a bead on a Hyperfire along with a Vagabond I plan on turning into "Grandpap's Old-Timey Squirrel Rifle."
The downside to recharable D cells is that they are a slightly lower voltage than regular D cells. Fresh of the charger they may be a little higher but not for long. You can use IMRs. It could probably handle 3 well enough for a while. But there are hard limits to what a stock blaster can handle before you burn something out.
I gotcha... yeah, I don't NEED to get crazy-insane performance out of my blasters. I want my blasters to be something I can bring to HVZ and public parks... ya know, stuff I can feel comfortable using around children. And I'd rather replace batteries than have to gut the beast just to replace motors and wiring. My dad's the electrician... me? Not so much.
But yeah... the end result of this Hyperfire mod is going to be something like this. The "Condemner-Pattern Boltgun" of Inquisitor Katarina Greyfax.
vignette.wikia.nocookie.net/warhammer40k/images/1/1f/Greyfax.jpg/revision/latest?cb=20170501070314
Captain Xavier, what PaNNC wars are you going to this summer if any?
Most of them...
Captain Xavier the woodland war 3?
Probably not. I have not been to any of them yet. For...reasons...
okay, well i still hope to see you there
LiPo is expensive here in Aus, so I'm holding off adopting it until im either nerfing constantly or really have 100+ dollars spare to spend on it.
Also, I have a question about LiPo and storage. How long is it safe to keep a battery in storage, provided you charge it to storage voltage? Is there any limit, or is it safe to store forever?
It's nice to see proper care theory though, it has been difficult trying to sift it all out through all the various places around the internet, so thanks for that.
Mephiston I also want the answer to the storage time question. How often do I need to put it in storage mode? I hope we get answers.
If only there was a Website you could type these questions into and get answers... ;P I am not an expert by any means. I highly encourage you to do your own research. I assume they can be stored for very long periods of times at storage voltages since there is really no other option. If you drain it completely it will never recharge. But how long is going to vary from battery to battery. It is recommended you put them at storage voltage if they are going to sit for even a week so probably after every time you use it.
Alright cool, so it is relatively dependent on the manufacturer or the battery itself? either way, It would appear I have some research to do. Thanks for setting me in the right direction, I appreciate it.
Most LipO's will stay in storage mode and keep their charge at storage for a good 6 months, retaining at least 85% of theirstorage power power, especially good quality LiPo's, I use a Pocket Cell Checker every so often to check the voltage is within safety margins and if not, I'll pop them on storage charge which can only take a few minutes, it's best to be safe. LiPo's aren't going to murder you in your sleep though, there has been a lot of scaremongering by idiots who drive a 6" nail through a pack in order to "prove their point", these people are morons who shouldn't be allowed near an AA consumer cell, let alone a LiPo.
Tom from Foam Data Services has a good video or two on LiPo safety and care, so I would recommend them as extra viewing to this if you still have any unanswered questions or need to know more.
What I have heard is when storing a pack it is good to cycle the pack one time a month, that means fully charge them then bring them back to storage, this helps to prevent the pack from self draining below 3.3 volts per cell
How round does the LiPo get when it swells?
And also I can't buy LiPo's from OOD because I simply don't live in the US. Any better options?
If it is swekking, you will know. It is obvious.
HobbyKing? For the LiPo? Or NFstrike...but I would be dubious of their LiPos...
@@CaptainXavier Thanks.
I got 2 things.
1. How to calculate total use time for a 3s 1 amp/hour 25 c Lipo powering 2 rhinos
2. If the total volts for a 3s is 11.1, that would only give me 3 volts of wiggle room before I have to recharge at 7.1 volts? I don't want any of the cells to drop below 3.2, so 7.1 just doesn't seem like a lot. Or can I push it all the way to 3.2 total volts in the entire battery?
1. It will run for 1/ hrs.
2. Just get a voltage alarm (they are small and cheap) and recharge when it goes off. Pushing your LiPo past its safety limits will damage it.
well shit thats only 2 minutes, not very long
That is 2 minutes (give or take) and constant rev. You generally only rev and fire for a few seconds at a time. So 2 minutes is a lot longer than you think. Typically unless you are running a Proton Pack a LiPo will last most of an event unless you are just relentlessly mag dumping.
Hello Captain, do you typically break in/cycle new Lipo batteries when you get them?
Yes
@@CaptainXavier what’s that process like?
1. New battery arrives.
2. I open the package.
3. I charge the battery.
3. I test the battery.
4. I put it with the others.
We have a metal plate on the desk because we had my tablet explode and be on fire
If lipos ever catch on fire, putting sand on it can help isolate the fire.
Hey what do you do when you first get a battery, say from out of darts
Greetings Capitan.
I have a question. I bought 2 lipo batteries (one year ago and one half year ago). I didnt knew better and charged them fully as soon as I got them (I did what I was told to in the store). Right now, I'm not able to check on them and won't be able for next month. Should I ask someone to check on thier sytuation or should I wait untill I will be able to do it myself?
If you can have someone check them it would not be a bad idea. But if it has been this long it might not make that much of a difference.
Captain Xavier even if there is no observable diffrence at a first glance, should i ask them to get rid off it (for example to a battery utilizeing point) or should i have look at them myself in a month? I'm mostly concerned about the whole "explodeing thing" so I want to pick the safest option. Thank you for answering my comment, Capitan. I hope you will have a wonderfull day.
No, if there is no very obvious swelling they are fine. Generally they won't explode from sitting too long. The bigger risk is that they will become damaged and not recharge properly anymore.
Captain Xavier Alright, Thank you so much for help, Capitan.
Thanks really helped me modify my old rapidstrike
I have the exact same LiPo charger but mine does not alert me of the completion of my LiPo’s charge. Is there anything you can think of that I might be doing wrong??? I do not believe the product is defective as I bought it from a very reputable website but I have been wrong before.
Mod Squad read the manual. There is almost certainly an option in an obscure menu to turn on or off the alarm
Is it possible to get a picture of your X force logo? For a project that will also become fanmail?
email me
Which email? The diagnostics/commision one?
Yes
Hey cap, i was thinking of converting my stock vulan to 3s. Do you think i can use 20 gauge wire because i have plenty of it.
I'm sure you can. Whether or not it will last is an entirely different matter...
Well the motor only draws the current it needs so it won’t be that big of a deal if u use 20 gauge wire
Where do you submit really long questions for QnA
I already answered this the last time you asked...
Johnny Kane email him if it’s too long to be in a QnA
I have a .95ah 2s lipo, what amp setting should I use? because the charger doesn't go in to the hundredths for amp hours.
That information should have been in the instructions that came with the charger. Use .9 It never hurts to charge at a lower setting. Charging at a higher setting can be catastrophic.
Thank you!
Do you know where I can buy a stockade spectre rampage or alpha trooper
Have you tried this neat site where people sell things...I think it is called Abay? Ubay? Ibay? Something like that...
Danny Le Retail stores, eBay, thrift stores, online, Craigslist, r/NerfExchange
Me sitting here with my triple charge lipo charger and my two normal ones
i have the imax b6 mini charger. when i try to use my turnigy lipo it says cell error voltage invalid even though i put it in perfectly according to to lipos label. does anyone know why?
www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2432532-Strange-cell-error-voltage-invalid-problem
hi Captain Xavier i really want a (working)barrel break, if you are going to a goodwill store could you look for me? thxz!!
I can look. I have not seen one since I moved here though.
thxzzz
it doesn't matter if its the N-strike or the elite
Storage Limits?
Is there a limit to how long a battery can be left in Storage mode? after too long in storage can it self-discharge to a dangerous point?
What are the dangers of leaving a battery sitting without first putting it to Storage mode? is there a safe time frame to leave a battery charged before it Needs to go Storage?
Wondering this for 'casual' usage; where you aren't playing games on a schedule where you can just charge up the night before, store after. But would rather just pick up and put down the blaster whenever with totally random time intervals between. Maybe you get bored for a week and don't touch it. Maybe its every day. etc
Your questions have FAR exceeded my knowledge. I recommend researching it.
@@CaptainXavier Well, from looking at RC Car forums answers vary; but in general the consensus is do not leave a Charged Lipo sitting idle for more than approx 48hours; put it in Storage mode before then.
The consequences of Not doing so are a bit fuzzy though...
At any rate; this pattern of 'fully charge when you want to use it' 'storage charge when done' and having to monitor; does Not fit my play patterns.
I want to be able to pick up a blaster at a whim and plink targets. Obviously having to chargup beforehand precludes that pattern. And leaving it Charged Always on the off chance that I get that whim any given day is Bad.
It seems that Lipo is Not a good choice for Very Casual Users.
Do you have any thoughts on alternative power supplies that can still drive modded blasters with high current, yet don't have the maintenance requirements for safety? I understand that the Community is gravitating towards Lipo; anyplace I ask the answer seems to be that Lipo is the "Right" way to do things. But is that really all there is? It doesn't sound 'right' for the use pattern I described..
Obviously there would be some tradeoff; likely size or weight. But I'm open to that kind of compromise, just have no idea where to start looking. its just nothing but LIpo recommendations everyplace I look....
More info for Prosperity:
found an article that suggests the Storage Charge inconvenience may be ignoreable:
www.propwashed.com/lipo-storage-voltage/
or at the very least, the consequence of not doing the Storage, is reduced battery life, not explosions.
is banggood a good site?
I like it.
Is tier one fo your blasters, or is it an upgraded ier?
TYR is what I named my Minigun.
Oh, ok. By the way that minigun is neat. Are there any Nerf guns that are minigun, that I could just purchase. I'd perfer if the barrel spins, but I don't count the vulcan.
Not Nerf, no. But there are several off brand options. TYR is made out of an Air Warriors Punisher. The Scorpion also have rotating barrels as does the Cyclonic.
Which would you prefer and if I were to buy it what else would you recommend me getting. I have seen the scorpion but do you have a review on it or no.
I would recommend either. They are both fun. I don't have a review of either.
I dare you to make a battery powered retaliator
You dare me? I am not in Middle School...
I'm not really into electronic blasters I'm more into mechanically powered blasters
Ok...you got some reason for commenting this on a video about batteries?
Sorry bout the stream...... I had a bad day
Happens to everyone. I am now banned from walcom's stream chat. because his mods are a**** holes. because of a misconception.
Don't forget swelling. EDIT:I just realized someone already said this
Yup, I pinned their comment and everything. :) I am tempted to film an addendum and re-upload...
Can you please consider doing imr battery safety