As a cabinet maker in England, I always heard these being called Dodgers, great for getting old polish off of old tables etc. This was about 50 years ago.
Sad story, my father recently passed away and the Stanley 80 was at the bottom of his toolbox. No Instructions although I do know how to use spokeshaves. I too sharpened it and tried to use it to no avail. This video sorted out every question i could possibly ask. Well done and I'm glad I came across this website. Used it and it does just what is says on the can. Many thanks.
I picked up my #80 off of craigslist about 5 years ago. We were in the process of moving to another state about the same time. Fast forward, I'm making a coffee table for our home, had to fill a ton of beetle holes with epoxy. I started to use a regular scraper to level out the epoxy, hands were getting tired real quick. About that time I remembered the #80 I had forgotten all about. What a difference this tool made! Thanks to your video, I now know how to sharpen, and adjust it. Thank you. You have a new subscriber. Keep up the good work.
Great suff got a second hand no80 today, scraper edge looked like a scrub plane when i got it! I went from clueless to nice wisps in 30mins with your tutorial! Thank you
I don't even know where mine came from, probably in a tool box I got at a yard sale or something. I'm a carpenter so of course it intrigued me but I had no clue what it actually was or how to set it up but I tried and didnt quite hit the mark. This was the first video I found on it and the only one I needed to get my #80 set up and working perfectly, so perfectly I took about a ¼in out of a scrap piece of 1x4 after watching this, it seriously is satisfying and a little bit addicting!!!! Thank you very much, you helped me add another very useful tool to my arsenal!!!
I picked up a vintage Stanley 80 and had only guessed at how to sharpen, mount, adjust, and use it. Now I know so I expect it will work so much better and I will use it much more often. Thanks Patrick. You da man!
Well I finally figured out I had all the parts, got it together and DAMN. Chatter right to the bones trying to push the thing, even set really light (I thought). Then i kept watching...and realized I was pushing it backwards, with the bevel the wrong way. And had the blade protruding... This thing is amazing! Thank you!
Thanks for demonstrating the direction to place the blade. I have a #80 (and no experience using one) and have been driving myself nuts trying to figure out the direction to place the blade. Greatly appreciated!
thank you! that is about as good a compliment as they come. if you ever have any questions feel free to ask. I would love to help out. might even turn them into a video.
I have had one of these hanging on the back of my workbench but never really used it much, almost a forgotten tool. This will be put to work very soon. Thank you.
I bought both the 080 amd 151 from Lee Valley before they made their own. I doubt I paid close to what you would pay for them on Ebay now and both in near new condition. I share my shop with Vancouvers No 1 magician so they will both be put to work very soon. He is laminating a lot of oak he got from some church pews he picked up cheap.
James: Watched this like 5 times today. Per our other discussion I used the kitchen knife honing tool to roll a burr onto the blade. It was AWESOME! Got the burr and super sweet shavings. Thanks again!
Just bought a Record #80 and hoped you'd have something about setting them up and using them. Wasn't disappointed. This was exactly what I needed. Thanks James.
I've owned a number 80 for some years and have tried to use it a few times with little success. After watching this video, I sharpened mine in about 2 minutes on diamond stones and .., it was amazing. I cleaned up excess epoxy from a scarf joint with no effort. I am sold. Thank you
A friend just gave me one of these today. I did not know what to do with it until I watch you set it up and work with it. (he gave me a no. 12 also) Can't wait to clean it up and sharpen the blade. Thanks James.
Yes, he is. He inherited these tools from his father-in-law who got them from his (father-in-law's) neighbor who was a cabinet maker. So, these have an interesting heritage. They are in great shape. I will prepare the blades and see what I can do with them. If you don't have a burnisher, what can you use instead to make the burr?
You can use any piece of steel that is harder than the card. most screwdrivers are not hard enough. some people use the back of a good knife. but you can usually use a burnisher you get from a kitchen supply store.
I got an old record 80 and after messing with that for what seemed like an age, I've just watched this and realised I've been using the bugger backwards! Many thanks for some great info. (There were times I threatened to drop kick it up the garden!)
James: After about 10 hours of trying to correct all the problems with my new 80, I have gotten it to a point where it works. Not well, but it is a start. The original owner of this Scraping Plane took a file to the back edge of the steel blade. He did not file it straight either. So, I had to use sandpaper and my diamond plates to flatten the back. Then, I had to reprofile the bevel to 45 degrees. This steel blade is really, really hard. I got it to something that resembles a good proflie so I could roll the edge and try it. It does scrape. Not like yours. Yet. Really rough and choppy. I still have a ton of work on the sole to flatten it out and still working on the blade. I even ordered wider diamond plates to work on this. (I will have them forever) Thank you for your explanation and information. You helped immensely with trying to restore this old scraper.
I am assuming the original owner did not have TH-cam and just did what he thought was correct. I realize that when I flatten and reprofile the blade, I will not have to do it again. The black paint is in very good shape so I will not be striping the metal and repainting. I am a weekend crafter and don't need that kind of restoration. But yes, my shoulders ache.
After cleaning up and fixing the missing blade on the Stanley No. 80 that I was lucky enough to assemble from scrap parts I of course posted video of the process. As I'm going through and setting up the playlist your video series popped up on my feed. You have done an excellent job of explaining something that took me a while to get the hang of. Thanks for sharing.
I just tried one for the first time to scrape finish off a board and also was using it backward. It worked pretty well considering. But nothing like you showed. Thanks for the great explanation. Mine's a Woodriver copy, and now I'll replace the bolts that hold it with something I can finger tighten like your Stanley instead of having to use a wrench.
So helpful. Just picked one up, was baffled initially by the bevel, thought i'd check whether you had a video explaining it........mystery solved!! All set to go 👍
Wood By Wright Thank you James that is very kind. After a little tinkering again this morning I am now getting nice shavings from a bit of oak and am a happy bunny.
Thanks for the great video. I found both a Stanley 80 and 81 scraper in my grandfather's tools and had no idea how to make them work. Neither had a blade, so I just ordered a replacement on Amazon last week. Set it up as per your instructions and it worked great. Had the blade in backwards at first. Turned it around and wisps as you said stared on my test block.
Thanks so much for this video! I found an old No 80 in my shop and had no idea how to get it tuned up and usable again. I can't wait to get it going and see what it can do!
Thanks for the great explanation. I was given a box of planes by my father in law and didn't know how to use my no. 80. Looking forward to using it now.
I read your comment, and was like "yea I can see why a few people push it away from them, I know to pull mine". Well... I was still wrong! Easy to get mixed up with a spokeshave.
Thanks James, I just got a Stanley 81 off E Bay in good shape and ordered a Hock blade for it. Will be refurbishing it. This video answered so many questions that I signed up on your Patreon Account. Keep it up. You have the best You Tube Channel out there for working with handtools. If you lived closed I would love to hang out with you.
I have an Axminster 80, who are a mid range company here in the U.K. It has a shorter and thicker blade but after flattening it runs like a dream and is really easy for a newbie to use. It took some flattening though, about 30 minutes but because I get so breathless it does take me longer. I’m never too sure how long is acceptable for a new tool but I think it’s worth doing properly. I had to buy new as I couldn’t afford used, really tatty second hand Stanleys seem to be going for a fortune here in the U.K. That is if you can find one anywhere else but eBay which is a massive rip off for S/H tools, everyone seems to think their pile of rust and holes is worth a fortune. My next tool is going to be a brace and bits I don’t mind new bits but I don’t want a new brace with plastic handles so I’m going to have to hold out until I see one at the right price and condition. Another excellent and useful video, thank you James.
Thanks much for this! Just today I found a Stanley 81 in an old toolbox that belonged to my grandfather and was wondering how it was used. Grandfather was a farmer and carpenter in the first half of the last century and built everything from barns to a chassis-mounted motor home. Guess I need to find a project for it.
Great video James , looks really easy to use , couldn't believe how fast that thing took the finish off!!.. Amazing!! Now I'm going to try and find one . Looking forward to the next video , keep up the good work. Trev
Thank you for making this video. I was handed one of these several years ago and it was in desperate need of restoration. I wasn't sure if it would be worth my time because I didn't even know how to use it properly. She's going to be fixed up and put back into service!
I’ve been following you for a few years now and I have learned a lot from you, I just got a new meet 80 this past weekend and your video was the first one that came up in my search, the only thing I have a question about is your burnishing rod, is a steel you would use on knives or would any piece of metal work?? Thanks for doing what you do and keep up the great work!!!
Thanks that means a lot. As to the burnisher. It needs to be a harder steel then what you are burnishing. I generally use a carbide rod. www.woodbywright.com/shop/burnisher
It was perfect timing. I got it in the mail about an hour before shooting the video. I have not read through that book looks like a good one I am really looking forward to diving into that. Huge thanks for the blade. works like a charm!
Once again the Wright Archive saves the day. Just got a no. 80 handed down from my dad. While being a tool geek, he's more into metalworking and construction. So he had this in the back of a cupboard. Looking forward to putting it to good use
I just bought a Kunz #80, looks brand new, there are machining marks in the sole, should I fettle it like I would a plane? The Kunz Christmas green paint takes some getting used to.
You can use a saw plate for this. However, it tends to be a bit too thin for most people's liking. It vibrates and chatters a bit more. But it can do the trick. I put a magnet on the back of a card scraper to keep my thumbs cool. If you do a lot of scraping it heats up and can be very hot to touch. The magnet will allow you to keep your thumbs there without burning them.
i have watched your video so many times and sharpened my no 80 accordingly. but i always get heavy vibrations and chatter as i use it. any ideas as to what im doing wrong? thanks in advance looking foward to your insight .
With a cabinet scraper usually the problem is you're trying to take too deep of a cut. It should just barely be sticking out to scrape the top of the surface. if it catches too much then it bounces back and forth as it goes forward.
You can use it on the push or the pull stroke. It's just a little bit more difficult to pull it as it will want to rotate out of contact. So you have to put more pressure behind the plane. When you pull it. You can use scrapers on softwoods but you have to have a very very good burr. It's one of those times where the harder the wood. The easier it works the softer, the wood, the harder it is to work with.
Not really talking about a jig. It is just lifting the scraper up off the bench surface so the paddles incline at 45°. (A Paul Sellers suggestion) I still need tons of practice at freehand sharpening. I end up rounding the surface that I intend to make flat. In some cases that does not matter. Since this angle is not critical, I may practice more with this scraper's blade.
I have two Stanley number 80 scrapers however one of them has four holes one in each corner coming down through the sole and a much wider throat. I was wondering if anyone knows about these differences and how to utilize the different one.
That sounds like a user modification. It was fairly common to drill four holes so that you could mount a piece of wood underneath. The problem is you need to make the mouth bigger so it doesn't jam up
How did you get your scraper that color-japanning, paint, or something else? Curious as I need to restore a couple of tools and want to have a custom color!
Great video, very useful! I just picked up a No 80 that the previous owner had ground a fairly significant camber onto one side of the blade (including a 45 deg bevel following the camber). Sort of like a "scrub" scraper. It would be easy enough to remove, but I am wondering if there is a reason why someone might do that and if it would be useful to leave it that way.
It sounds like it might have been a specialty profile for doing some particular trim or something of that nature but I don't know why you would want to do that for standard use.
Wonder if you have a 80 chatter when using it on white oak ? My blade is made from a thin kerf circle saw blade. I cannot have the bend adjust screw touch the blade- it must be loose but still chatters. Thanks, Jim
I have no problem with chatter. If it does show up usually that is a sign that you are taking too deep a cut or there is not enough pressure on the blade.
Hello James Last week I bought a cabinet scraper on second hand market; it has same design and same dimensions than #80 Stanley , but no mark of manufacturer, only the "N° 180" . Have you ever seen this kind of tool? Thank you for answer Michel (from Cognac, France)
There are many other companies that made these. Some of them would mark them and some of them would not. Even Stanley made a series that they didn't mark so that local hardware stores could brand their own.
Great video. Question, is it important that the sole of the plane body be flat? Mine is not very flat and I was wondering if that is why I am getting less than stellar results.
thanks! it does not need to be as flat as a plane, but if should be flat-ish. if you set it on a flat surface it should not rock, and the mouth should be in contact with the surface. no need to get out the feeler gauges.
I came across your video about a week ago. I found a Stanley 80 in amongst old tools in a forgotten chest. Your video got me motivated in using it as a go to tool now. My question..... The blade has got a curve to it. About a 1mm to both ends. Is this just from age of sharpning/usage or must it be straigh ? I've sharpened/burred it as is and works fine. But would a straight edge be better? Seeing that as you tighten the "bend" screw it flexes convex to the surface you are working. Thanks.
Some people use to curve it a bit, but it was a personal preference. Traditionally all finishing tools scooped out wood rather then cutting a flat section. This sounds crazy to the power tools mind set, but the slight curve is imperceptible to the hand or eye.
Yes. A lot of people like really thick iron and that way they can get a straight shaving all the way across the weight of the iron. It's just a personal preference on how to thick the iron is.
@@WoodByWright used and referenced you in my instagram post. Took an hour to get the back of the blade true. Turning the burr was also tricky for a newbie. Actually took some shavings, but had chatter. Murphy is teaching me what not to do
I got one of them Stanley 80s. I can barely get it to do anything. I think the blade in it is shot. It's not really flat anymore. It's is all whipped out and bowed.
@@WoodByWright yeah at its best I'd say it is doing what yours did before you turned it up. Because I can't raise a very good burr on it due to the poor condition of the blade. I almost managed to polish the back of it though despite it being shaped like a potato now. Maybe it needs a couple more smacks on the anvil? The few I've already given it seem to have helped it out a lot.
I just picked up an old Stanley 80, and I noticed that the iron had one flat edge and one cambered edge, whereas you have two flat edges here? Is there any purpose to keeping one side of the iron cambered, similar to a scrub plane, or should I flatten that back out?
Jon Matle the only reason I can think of is if you have a common rounded Grove that you are making all the time. I don't see a reason for one. they will never take a deep cut. it will just give you an uneven surface.
Thank you so much for the videos. They all seem to be great so far...and I am kinda of a fussy woodworker. Can I roll the edge with a nice smooth round of mild steel or is hardened better? Wish i got back into woodworking long ago. I've forgotten more than I now know. Spent a year and a half as a pattern maker for a foundry. Been in sawdust most all my life. Wish I was as fly on the wall in your shop.. Thanks again!!
Hello, does anybody know if a knife sharpening steel can be used as a burnisher? The steel has lines/small grooves running along its length. The burnishers I have seen seem to be smooth along the length. Thank you
That's great news and will save me a bit of money. I was just a bit worried in case the grooves in the steel blunted my sharp edge. Thanks for helping me out.
I must have a different one than Mr. Wright. It took the hook clean off my card scraper. Mayhap I was too aggressive with mine. I would suggest try yours and see if it works, as it cannot hurt, but burnishers don't cost much.
generally nothing. Steel has a lot more meanings to a lot of different people. so basically all burnishers are steels but not all steels are hard enough to be a burnisher. thanks!
I use a Rust-Oleum spray paint. If I restore a plane for my use I paint it my shop colors. The most the time if I restore a plane for general use or to sell I use original japanning.
Thank you for so great explanation! One question, what, from your point of view, would be the optimal thickness for the blade. I bought Stanley 80 on the ebay but the blade was broken, so I had to make the new one from the old hand saw. It has thickness around 1 mm. I'm afraid that it's too thin. So I got just dust and no shavings.
Thank you for help. I'll try to find something more appropriate. Nobody say (or may be I just not got it) that this iron should be hardened, but may be this implied.
Yes it should be heat treated, and hard like a plane iron not a cabinet scraper. I don’t know much about the usual hardness of scraper planes irons or how critical it is but the cutter on my Stanley scraper plane can’t be filed and feels just as hard on a stone as any other blade. Normalizing a couple times before quenching would help keep such a thin blade flat, and don’t grip it with tongs on the cutting edge when you dip it or you’ll leave a soft spot there.
This video is invaluable. I have a No. 80 coming from ebay and this video gives me everything I need to know to get it set up. THANK YOU!
Wife ( better half!) Got me this and I did not know what or how to use it. I was doing it backwards lol. This helped alot
As a cabinet maker in England, I always heard these being called Dodgers, great for getting old polish off of old tables etc. This was about 50 years ago.
Sad story, my father recently passed away and the Stanley 80 was at the bottom of his toolbox. No Instructions although I do know how to use spokeshaves. I too sharpened it and tried to use it to no avail. This video sorted out every question i could possibly ask. Well done and I'm glad I came across this website. Used it and it does just what is says on the can. Many thanks.
Thank you. I love to see a good tool put back to work.
I picked up my #80 off of craigslist about 5 years ago. We were in the process of moving to another state about the same time. Fast forward, I'm making a coffee table for our home, had to fill a ton of beetle holes with epoxy. I started to use a regular scraper to level out the epoxy, hands were getting tired real quick. About that time I remembered the #80 I had forgotten all about. What a difference this tool made! Thanks to your video, I now know how to sharpen, and adjust it. Thank you. You have a new subscriber. Keep up the good work.
Great suff got a second hand no80 today, scraper edge looked like a scrub plane when i got it!
I went from clueless to nice wisps in 30mins with your tutorial!
Thank you
I don't even know where mine came from, probably in a tool box I got at a yard sale or something. I'm a carpenter so of course it intrigued me but I had no clue what it actually was or how to set it up but I tried and didnt quite hit the mark. This was the first video I found on it and the only one I needed to get my #80 set up and working perfectly, so perfectly I took about a ¼in out of a scrap piece of 1x4 after watching this, it seriously is satisfying and a little bit addicting!!!! Thank you very much, you helped me add another very useful tool to my arsenal!!!
I picked up a vintage Stanley 80 and had only guessed at how to sharpen, mount, adjust, and use it. Now I know so I expect it will work so much better and I will use it much more often. Thanks Patrick. You da man!
Sweet. Glad I could help!
Well I finally figured out I had all the parts, got it together and DAMN. Chatter right to the bones trying to push the thing, even set really light (I thought).
Then i kept watching...and realized I was pushing it backwards, with the bevel the wrong way. And had the blade protruding... This thing is amazing! Thank you!
You're not the only one. A lot of people make the same mistake. I'm glad it's up and running now it's a lot of fun.
Excellent vid and explanation!
Thanks. Glad to get out.
Thanks!
Excellently clear and well produced! Have known of a spokeshave, but not this tool. Thanks much!
Thanks. Glad I could help.
Thanks for helping me to become a better woodworker.
Thanks. My pleasure.
Thanks for taking the time to share some useful knowledge!
Thanks for demonstrating the direction to place the blade. I have a #80 (and no experience using one) and have been driving myself nuts trying to figure out the direction to place the blade. Greatly appreciated!
thank you! that is about as good a compliment as they come. if you ever have any questions feel free to ask. I would love to help out. might even turn them into a video.
I have had one of these hanging on the back of my workbench but never really used it much, almost a forgotten tool. This will be put to work very soon. Thank you.
Sweet. Those are a lot of fun when they're set up right.
I bought both the 080 amd 151 from Lee Valley before they made their own. I doubt I paid close to what you would pay for them on Ebay now and both in near new condition. I share my shop with Vancouvers No 1 magician so they will both be put to work very soon. He is laminating a lot of oak he got from some church pews he picked up cheap.
That is the joy of this hobby. There is ALWAYS something to learn or share.
That will be dealt with shortly.
James: Watched this like 5 times today. Per our other discussion I used the kitchen knife honing tool to roll a burr onto the blade. It was AWESOME! Got the burr and super sweet shavings. Thanks again!
Sweet! that is what I like to hear. that can be a seriously fun tool!
Thanks explained so succinctly. now I can use mine
This is one the most in depth, informative clips I have seen. Super helpful. Thanks
thnaks! glad I could help!
Thanks. I have had mine for years. Not many people know what it is. Good demonstration.
Just bought a Record #80 and hoped you'd have something about setting them up and using them. Wasn't disappointed. This was exactly what I needed. Thanks James.
Thanks man. Glad I could help!
thanks; really enjoyed your video; have just obtained a vintage 80 and a 12 and will restore them to use.
I've owned a number 80 for some years and have tried to use it a few times with little success. After watching this video, I sharpened mine in about 2 minutes on diamond stones and .., it was amazing. I cleaned up excess epoxy from a scarf joint with no effort. I am sold. Thank you
A friend just gave me one of these today. I did not know what to do with it until I watch you set it up and work with it. (he gave me a no. 12 also) Can't wait to clean it up and sharpen the blade. Thanks James.
WOW, great friend. the 12 is almost worth its weight in gold. Great friend!
Yes, he is. He inherited these tools from his father-in-law who got them from his (father-in-law's) neighbor who was a cabinet maker. So, these have an interesting heritage. They are in great shape. I will prepare the blades and see what I can do with them. If you don't have a burnisher, what can you use instead to make the burr?
You can use any piece of steel that is harder than the card. most screwdrivers are not hard enough. some people use the back of a good knife. but you can usually use a burnisher you get from a kitchen supply store.
I got an old record 80 and after messing with that for what seemed like an age, I've just watched this and realised I've been using the bugger backwards! Many thanks for some great info. (There were times I threatened to drop kick it up the garden!)
Oh sorry for that. they are a great tool. but yup they go backward! LOL
Thanks so much for this video, I have a Stanley # 80 and the information in this video clarified a few mistakes I was making!
+Evan Dunville glad I could help. If you ever have any questions feel free to ask. Any time.
James: After about 10 hours of trying to correct all the problems with my new 80, I have gotten it to a point where it works. Not well, but it is a start. The original owner of this Scraping Plane took a file to the back edge of the steel blade. He did not file it straight either. So, I had to use sandpaper and my diamond plates to flatten the back. Then, I had to reprofile the bevel to 45 degrees. This steel blade is really, really hard. I got it to something that resembles a good proflie so I could roll the edge and try it. It does scrape. Not like yours. Yet. Really rough and choppy. I still have a ton of work on the sole to flatten it out and still working on the blade. I even ordered wider diamond plates to work on this. (I will have them forever) Thank you for your explanation and information. You helped immensely with trying to restore this old scraper.
wow! That is a lot of work. thankfully once it si done then you don't have to mess with it.
I am assuming the original owner did not have TH-cam and just did what he thought was correct. I realize that when I flatten and reprofile the blade, I will not have to do it again. The black paint is in very good shape so I will not be striping the metal and repainting. I am a weekend crafter and don't need that kind of restoration. But yes, my shoulders ache.
After cleaning up and fixing the missing blade on the Stanley No. 80 that I was lucky enough to assemble from scrap parts I of course posted video of the process. As I'm going through and setting up the playlist your video series popped up on my feed. You have done an excellent job of explaining something that took me a while to get the hang of.
Thanks for sharing.
thanks man. that means a lot.
Old Sneelock's Workshop i
Very good review. I have just been given an 80 by my neighbour!
I just tried one for the first time to scrape finish off a board and also was using it backward. It worked pretty well considering. But nothing like you showed. Thanks for the great explanation. Mine's a Woodriver copy, and now I'll replace the bolts that hold it with something I can finger tighten like your Stanley instead of having to use a wrench.
Nice. it is a fun tool when it is sharp and setup!
So helpful. Just picked one up, was baffled initially by the bevel, thought i'd check whether you had a video explaining it........mystery solved!! All set to go 👍
Glad I could help!
Just purchased a number 80 from Rockler. I've seen this used and I'm hoping to do some clean work. Thanks!
I bought one of these some time ago but struggled with it. I'm heading out to the shed this afternoon to set it up following your excellent advice.
thanks. and good luck. let me know if you have any questions.
Wood By Wright Thank you James that is very kind. After a little tinkering again this morning I am now getting nice shavings from a bit of oak and am a happy bunny.
sweet! that is what I like to hear!
Perfect video, thank you, it answered all the questions I had and more 👍🏻😊
Thanks for the great video. I found both a Stanley 80 and 81 scraper in my grandfather's tools and had no idea how to make them work. Neither had a blade, so I just ordered a replacement on Amazon last week. Set it up as per your instructions and it worked great. Had the blade in backwards at first. Turned it around and wisps as you said stared on my test block.
Sweet. That is what I like to hear. It is a fun too.
Thanks so much for this video! I found an old No 80 in my shop and had no idea how to get it tuned up and usable again. I can't wait to get it going and see what it can do!
Sweet! I love it when an old tool comes back to life!
Thanks for the great explanation. I was given a box of planes by my father in law and didn't know how to use my no. 80. Looking forward to using it now.
don't have too much fun. those can be addictive!
Thanks, I haven't quite got the burnish right yet but I'm confident I can get there now.
This is EXACTLY the video that I needed! Thank you! Headed out to the shop to get mine sharpened!
+Daniel Harney Sweet! Have fun Daniel!
Well, I’m glad I watched this. I was using mine backwards! No wonder it cut so poorly... lol
That would do it. Glad I could help.
Yeah. I had the card in backward so the bevel was toward the front.
I read your comment, and was like "yea I can see why a few people push it away from them, I know to pull mine". Well... I was still wrong! Easy to get mixed up with a spokeshave.
Thanks man. 1st video on the stanley #80 scraper, no need to look further
Great, instructive video! Could you tell me where you got your sharpening stones? Thank you!
Here is what I use. www.woodbywright.com/tool-suggestions/sharpening
Excellent video and process. You saved my project. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks. Glad I can help.
Thanks James, I just got a Stanley 81 off E Bay in good shape and ordered a Hock blade for it. Will be refurbishing it. This video answered so many questions that I signed up on your Patreon Account. Keep it up. You have the best You Tube Channel out there for working with handtools. If you lived closed I would love to hang out with you.
+Jeff Kerr thanks Jeff. That means more then you could know! Feel free to swing by if you are ever in town.
I have an Axminster 80, who are a mid range company here in the U.K. It has a shorter and thicker blade but after flattening it runs like a dream and is really easy for a newbie to use. It took some flattening though, about 30 minutes but because I get so breathless it does take me longer. I’m never too sure how long is acceptable for a new tool but I think it’s worth doing properly. I had to buy new as I couldn’t afford used, really tatty second hand Stanleys seem to be going for a fortune here in the U.K. That is if you can find one anywhere else but eBay which is a massive rip off for S/H tools, everyone seems to think their pile of rust and holes is worth a fortune. My next tool is going to be a brace and bits I don’t mind new bits but I don’t want a new brace with plastic handles so I’m going to have to hold out until I see one at the right price and condition.
Another excellent and useful video, thank you James.
so true. the stanleys on anything are always more expensive, but for a tool like this it does not matter. cheaper works just as well.
Thanks for this video. Its my goto reference for a quick reminder on dealing with my No. 80.
thanks man that means a lot!
good video, thanks! i have a smaller stanley scraper that ill have to get back into working shape, but im now thinking about getting an 80 too!
They are a fun tool
Thanks much for this! Just today I found a Stanley 81 in an old toolbox that belonged to my grandfather and was wondering how it was used. Grandfather was a farmer and carpenter in the first half of the last century and built everything from barns to a chassis-mounted motor home. Guess I need to find a project for it.
+Larry Barker that is cool. Love a tool with a history.
Great video, just ordered a used Stanley #80 for 20 bucks. Seems like a really useful tool for difficult grains.
Great video James , looks really easy to use , couldn't believe how fast that thing took the finish off!!.. Amazing!! Now I'm going to try and find one . Looking forward to the next video , keep up the good work. Trev
thanks. Veritas and Lee Nelson both make a version of it. but you can buy the originals on ebay.
Thank you for making this video. I was handed one of these several years ago and it was in desperate need of restoration. I wasn't sure if it would be worth my time because I didn't even know how to use it properly. She's going to be fixed up and put back into service!
Sweet. I love seeing an old girl come back to life.
Thank you! I just acquired a Stanley 80M and this was very helpful.
thanks Christopher! don't have too much fun!
I’ve been following you for a few years now and I have learned a lot from you, I just got a new meet 80 this past weekend and your video was the first one that came up in my search, the only thing I have a question about is your burnishing rod, is a steel you would use on knives or would any piece of metal work?? Thanks for doing what you do and keep up the great work!!!
Thanks that means a lot. As to the burnisher. It needs to be a harder steel then what you are burnishing. I generally use a carbide rod. www.woodbywright.com/shop/burnisher
Hey James, great review and demo. That blade is doing a great job for you, as it did for me. Enjoy.
It was perfect timing. I got it in the mail about an hour before shooting the video. I have not read through that book looks like a good one I am really looking forward to diving into that. Huge thanks for the blade. works like a charm!
your very welcome my friend.
If you are ever in northern IL let me know and we can say hey maybe do lunch.
Once again the Wright Archive saves the day. Just got a no. 80 handed down from my dad. While being a tool geek, he's more into metalworking and construction. So he had this in the back of a cupboard. Looking forward to putting it to good use
This looks like an amazingly satisfying tool to use. I'll have to keep a look out for one.
thanks. Veritas and Lee Nelson both make a version of it. but you can buy the originals on ebay. I have yet to see one in garage sale.
Thanks for that - as others have said, I found it wasn't obvious which way round the blade should go - I shall try again tomorrow.
+Steve SteveS that caught us all off guard the first time.
I just bought a Kunz #80, looks brand new, there are machining marks in the sole, should I fettle it like I would a plane? The Kunz Christmas green paint takes some getting used to.
They don't need to be flat like a plane just smooth.
Can you still just make the blade out of old saws like a card scraper?
Also, what’s with the magnet on the back of your card scraper?
You can use a saw plate for this. However, it tends to be a bit too thin for most people's liking. It vibrates and chatters a bit more. But it can do the trick. I put a magnet on the back of a card scraper to keep my thumbs cool. If you do a lot of scraping it heats up and can be very hot to touch. The magnet will allow you to keep your thumbs there without burning them.
i have watched your video so many times and sharpened my no 80 accordingly. but i always get heavy vibrations and chatter as i use it. any ideas as to what im doing wrong? thanks in advance looking foward to your insight .
With a cabinet scraper usually the problem is you're trying to take too deep of a cut. It should just barely be sticking out to scrape the top of the surface. if it catches too much then it bounces back and forth as it goes forward.
Can it be used on the pull stroke with equal results? Also, aren't cabinet/ card scrapers to be used only on hardwoods?
You can use it on the push or the pull stroke. It's just a little bit more difficult to pull it as it will want to rotate out of contact. So you have to put more pressure behind the plane. When you pull it. You can use scrapers on softwoods but you have to have a very very good burr. It's one of those times where the harder the wood. The easier it works the softer, the wood, the harder it is to work with.
James: Can also set up the steel on a jig and use the diamond paddles to sharpen the 45° edge? Then go on with setting up the burr?
sure. I am not a fan of jigs but they are great for some people.
Not really talking about a jig. It is just lifting the scraper up off the bench surface so the paddles incline at 45°. (A Paul Sellers suggestion) I still need tons of practice at freehand sharpening. I end up rounding the surface that I intend to make flat. In some cases that does not matter. Since this angle is not critical, I may practice more with this scraper's blade.
I have two Stanley number 80 scrapers however one of them has four holes one in each corner coming down through the sole and a much wider throat. I was wondering if anyone knows about these differences and how to utilize the different one.
That sounds like a user modification. It was fairly common to drill four holes so that you could mount a piece of wood underneath. The problem is you need to make the mouth bigger so it doesn't jam up
How did you get your scraper that color-japanning, paint, or something else? Curious as I need to restore a couple of tools and want to have a custom color!
It is painted. I use a self-itching spray primer and then hit it with a simple Rust-Oleum spray paint.
Great video, very useful!
I just picked up a No 80 that the previous owner had ground a fairly significant camber onto one side of the blade (including a 45 deg bevel following the camber). Sort of like a "scrub" scraper. It would be easy enough to remove, but I am wondering if there is a reason why someone might do that and if it would be useful to leave it that way.
It sounds like it might have been a specialty profile for doing some particular trim or something of that nature but I don't know why you would want to do that for standard use.
@@WoodByWright Thanks for the reply! I was guessing it was probably something like that.
I keep rediscovering this plane. Excellent presentation. New subscriber now.
+William Branham thanks. That means a lot.
Wonder if you have a 80 chatter when using it on white oak ? My blade is made from a thin kerf circle saw blade.
I cannot have the bend adjust screw touch the blade- it must be loose but still chatters. Thanks, Jim
I have no problem with chatter. If it does show up usually that is a sign that you are taking too deep a cut or there is not enough pressure on the blade.
Hello James
Last week I bought a cabinet scraper on second hand market; it has same design and same dimensions than #80 Stanley , but no mark of manufacturer, only the "N° 180" . Have you ever seen this kind of tool?
Thank you for answer
Michel (from Cognac, France)
There are many other companies that made these. Some of them would mark them and some of them would not. Even Stanley made a series that they didn't mark so that local hardware stores could brand their own.
@@WoodByWright Thanks !
James, do you think it would help as a burnisher wood on wood if a piece of 6mm ply was glued to the bottom. I like mine as it is to be fair.
you could do that just have to make sure there is enough room on the mouth for the curls to come out.
May be James a video compare the two and see which is smoother. Just a thought.
Excellent tutorial! Thanks! Except for the Packers shirt. SKOL!
LOL thanks!
Where did you order your Stanly scraper 80.... Most reviews on ebay say poorly made....???? Looking to order one in the next few days.....
Is there any of these for rounding wood like one for shaving snooker cues.
res there are some that are just like that.
Great video. Question, is it important that the sole of the plane body be flat? Mine is not very flat and I was wondering if that is why I am getting less than stellar results.
thanks! it does not need to be as flat as a plane, but if should be flat-ish. if you set it on a flat surface it should not rock, and the mouth should be in contact with the surface. no need to get out the feeler gauges.
Ok, awesome. Yeah, mine does rock a bit. I'll get out some sandpaper and flatten it up a little. Thank you James!
my pleasure Anthony!
I came across your video about a week ago. I found a Stanley 80 in amongst old tools in a forgotten chest. Your video got me motivated in using it as a go to tool now. My question.....
The blade has got a curve to it. About a 1mm to both ends.
Is this just from age of sharpning/usage or must it be straigh ? I've sharpened/burred it as is and works fine. But would a straight edge be better? Seeing that as you tighten the "bend" screw it flexes convex to the surface you are working.
Thanks.
Some people use to curve it a bit, but it was a personal preference. Traditionally all finishing tools scooped out wood rather then cutting a flat section. This sounds crazy to the power tools mind set, but the slight curve is imperceptible to the hand or eye.
Wood By Wright Thanks. I'll leave it as it is then .
hi: what do you call the metal plates that you used to sharpen the blade?
Those are diamond plates made by DFM tools. Here's a link to all the ones I use. www.woodbywright.com/tool-suggestions/sharpening
Thank you, great video. I am getting one soon.
I have struggled with the #80. I will give it another try as I have abig stack of figured walnut that is very diffucult to handplane.
Feel free to message me any time I would love to help trouble shoot that sounds like a great use for it.
Great video. Are you using a knifebm sharpening steel to burnish it?
Thanks man! Appreciate your info.
I am restoring a sweetheart era 12 1/2. it doesn't have a iron/card. what could I use and how thick does it need to be? thanks
toy can use an old saw plate. I actualy have a video on making one. th-cam.com/video/mfgCQ4lyBrQ/w-d-xo.html
Great tip. I have two that are in need of a tune up, this will help! Thanks!
GLad you like it! thanks. looking forward to seeing yours!
I have one and I love it. Mine is a Marke Kunz No 80
Green! I love it!
Stephen, just purchased a Bulldog number 80. The blade appears much thicker than yours, almost a plane blade thickness. Can this be a problem? Thanks!
Yes. A lot of people like really thick iron and that way they can get a straight shaving all the way across the weight of the iron. It's just a personal preference on how to thick the iron is.
@@WoodByWright used and referenced you in my instagram post. Took an hour to get the back of the blade true. Turning the burr was also tricky for a newbie. Actually took some shavings, but had chatter. Murphy is teaching me what not to do
I got one of them Stanley 80s. I can barely get it to do anything. I think the blade in it is shot. It's not really flat anymore. It's is all whipped out and bowed.
Interesting I've ever heard of a blade doing that before. You can actually use a card scraper in these you don't need an actual blade.
@@WoodByWright yeah at its best I'd say it is doing what yours did before you turned it up. Because I can't raise a very good burr on it due to the poor condition of the blade. I almost managed to polish the back of it though despite it being shaped like a potato now. Maybe it needs a couple more smacks on the anvil? The few I've already given it seem to have helped it out a lot.
Are you using a knife steel as a burnisher?
Yes. You can use any steel rod that is harder then the scraper. Now I use carbide rods.
I just picked up an old Stanley 80, and I noticed that the iron had one flat edge and one cambered edge, whereas you have two flat edges here? Is there any purpose to keeping one side of the iron cambered, similar to a scrub plane, or should I flatten that back out?
Jon Matle the only reason I can think of is if you have a common rounded Grove that you are making all the time. I don't see a reason for one. they will never take a deep cut. it will just give you an uneven surface.
Thank you so much for the videos. They all seem to be great so far...and I am kinda of a fussy woodworker. Can I roll the edge with a nice smooth round of mild steel or is hardened better? Wish i got back into woodworking long ago. I've forgotten more than I now know. Spent a year and a half as a pattern maker for a foundry. Been in sawdust most all my life. Wish I was as fly on the wall in your shop.. Thanks again!!
Thanks that means a lot. Unfortunately mild steel is just too soft. If you have a file with a safe side that works.
Very clear, and so easy to adjust! You was answering all my questions in real time. Wat to say now ? good done and thank you James.
thanks man!that is a great complement! glad you liked it.
Can u use a sharpener machine that sharper chef knifes for the blade sharpen
Hello, does anybody know if a knife sharpening steel can be used as a burnisher? The steel has lines/small grooves running along its length. The burnishers I have seen seem to be smooth along the length. Thank you
+ad cr sure. That is actually what mine is you just can't see it in the video.
That's great news and will save me a bit of money. I was just a bit worried in case the grooves in the steel blunted my sharp edge. Thanks for helping me out.
I must have a different one than Mr. Wright. It took the hook clean off my card scraper. Mayhap I was too aggressive with mine. I would suggest try yours and see if it works, as it cannot hurt, but burnishers don't cost much.
I use a 17mm Gedore spanner. Edge is hard and easy to use.
nice video James. I was wondering what is the difference between a burnisher and a steel and can i use my steel as a burnisher
generally nothing. Steel has a lot more meanings to a lot of different people. so basically all burnishers are steels but not all steels are hard enough to be a burnisher. thanks!
thanks for your input
What would you suggest using on a Boos butcher block when I want to get all the oil and grim off? It has an end grain top made of maple.
A low angle hand plane with a 20 or 25-degree iron and sharpen it every few passes.
Where do you find the coloring of your planes?
I use a Rust-Oleum spray paint. If I restore a plane for my use I paint it my shop colors. The most the time if I restore a plane for general use or to sell I use original japanning.
Great video! Thanks!!!
Great video. But some people round the corners a bit instead of leaving it square.
very true. a lot of people do that with most any smoothing tools. I prefer not to, but everyone is different.
Would this work with wood that has multiple layers of paint on it as an alternative to chemical stripping?
yes. this and a card scraper are one of the best ways to strip paint.
Thank you for so great explanation! One question, what, from your point of view, would be the optimal thickness for the blade. I bought Stanley 80 on the ebay but the blade was broken, so I had to make the new one from the old hand saw. It has thickness around 1 mm. I'm afraid that it's too thin. So I got just dust and no shavings.
ya that is on the thin side. usually for these I like it to be between 2 and 3mm
Thank you for help. I'll try to find something more appropriate. Nobody say (or may be I just not got it) that this iron should be hardened, but may be this implied.
Yes it should be heat treated, and hard like a plane iron not a cabinet scraper. I don’t know much about the usual hardness of scraper planes irons or how critical it is but the cutter on my Stanley scraper plane can’t be filed and feels just as hard on a stone as any other blade. Normalizing a couple times before quenching would help keep such a thin blade flat, and don’t grip it with tongs on the cutting edge when you dip it or you’ll leave a soft spot there.
thanks for sharing! what are your sharpening stones? where can i buy some? thanks
Here are what I use. Diamond Stones: amzn.to/2oppz0J (I use Extra Coarse, Medium-fine, and Extra fine)
Very cool scraper! I need one of these! Thanks for some great info James!
Thanks man! if I had an extra one I would send it to you.
+Wood By Wright I know you would! Thank you!
that would make a great give away some time.
+Wood By Wright yes it would!
Could I use this on 100 year old hardwood to remove paint and glue?
Yes. This and card scrapers are phenomenal for removing old finish and paint.
Great video James. I wonder if you could make a scraper like that out of wood,just a thought
+Opa's Workshop that is a fantastic idea. Thanks for the inspuration.