Great walk-through and you included all the bolt/wrench measurements which to me is the worst part in trying to figure them all out. Thanks, really appreciate it.
Thank god for youtube and thank god for those that post valuable videos!! I got quoted 1400 to replace my clutch. My buddy and I will be doing it next month
Good video! I have to do the transmission on my G5.. the rear subframe bolts that go threw the rear control arm mount was seized so, I really hope the front subframe bolts come out as easy as yours did.....Doubtful.....
Thank you for posting this. My 03 Ion 5 speed needs a clutch and slave cylinder and the trans shop wants 1200 to do it and I'd like to do it myself but didn't think it was doable in my driveway but maybe it is after all. It does seem quite intimidating though.
My transmission went out yesterday, on a 2007 pontiac G5 2.2 vin-F...I have had the rear bolts of the front subframe out & I replaced them with brand new bolts & I used antiseize but, the front bolts have never been out & I bet, they are seized!!! Any & all advice is welcomed! It was & is my daily! I need it back on the road asap!
Jealous at your comment right now lol 😂 a lift would make it so much easier for me lmao scissor jacks suck at trying to jack up each side at the same time by myself 😅
BEERS 'n GEARS dude i wish i could drink a case wit you dude you really changed the game for me you saved me more then just money you saved me time too i put in in the shop it takes a month to get it back
I am happy my videos helped you! That's why I made them. I hope this one wasn't too long. Thanks for the positive comment! Check out my review + Giveaway of GUNK tire shine!
This is probably a long shot, I’ve had my ion taken apart for some months now waiting on parts, I seem to have forgotten where a certain set of washers go, in the video you can see that washer at 1:10:54 next to the jack stand, I think they belong with the sub frame bolts but I can’t nail down where they belong! Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated, I just can’t see where they came from in the video!
Thank you, sadly not, they still have their washers on them. These are much thinner and have pieces of metal sticking up around the inside of the washer.
Thank you so much for your help I actually found them in one of your other videos involving the front brakes they were the clips for the drum! Thank you so so so much! Have a wonderful year!
I have the 06 saturn ion redline and really want to save the money and do it myself, I just don't know if I trust myself with such a task.. Never done car work so in depth, great video though thanks!
Working on removing an automatic from a 03 ION right now. Going to try this by leaving the Struts, steering knuckles and entire brake caliper and rotors in place. Thanks for the video.
I have a 03 ion and need to remove the automatic transmission to get to rear main seal. what were the torque specs for the fly wheel and transmission housing?
yea but is the space for a 2004 Saturn Ion with automatic? is this job pretty easy for a someone who has been in the collision repair industry? every time I work on my ion im amazed at how easy they are compared to other makes and models
Update currently gotta change the clutch and slave cylinder in mine but I didn't have to take the A-arm off considering it's connected to the subframe already currently just having a problem with trying to figure out what comes off next
You can get the procedure shops use from a website WWW.CHARM.LI It's legit site I have software that has all that info in it. Someone extracted the info from the software and made a website with it.
Hi there, i have 2004 ion automatic could you please help me ! Where is the. Transmission solenoid located, i have car taken apart but nothing looks like there part i bought at auto parts. Thanks
I have a 2006 Saturn ion3. Been parked for 6 months and nothing wrong when i parked it. I replaced the 2 front tires and took it for a drive. After 3 miles i pressed the clutch to slow down and it started knocking. Though it might be a bubble in the tire since they were used but i realized it was more of a metal sound. It stops when i press the gas pedal. But then i couldn't put it into gears, had to release the clutch and try again and it finally went into gear. But the knocking continues when i release the gas but still has a weird humming noise has i drive. Do u have any idea where i should start looking
Thank you sweet baby Jesus for your videos!!! So I followed your video but I’m stuck on some grounding wires. It’s the bolt with a built in nut. There’s four black ground wires, one comes from the frame and two the come from the starter wiring bundle. I’m not sure where all four wires are supposed to be bolted onto. Hopefully this make sense.
First I would check the fluid level for the clutch. If that is low, you must have a leak, slave cylinder, hydraulic line, you should be able to see the fluid leaking. If the fluid level is fine, it may be a bad slave cylinder. I would also check transmission oil level too, on this car it did not use gear oil, it used ATF if I remember correctly.
Bought a totally beat up ion 5 speed with 200k miles on it for 1500. Do you think it would even be worth fixing if i have bearing grinding noises in first and second gear, or just ride this thing out till it doesn't ride anymore.
Well when it comes to putting it back together, just reverse what you did when you took it apart. If you have a problem with this you need to write a diagram on some notebook paper. Please don't take it apart, unless you know how to put it back together. Have a great day!
14:19. I think you never mark it the strut...to save money on alligment.. now the car is going to need a new alligment and maybe the car will wear out the tire or pull to one side??.
2002 eco tech 2.2 litre SUE is is slave cylinder is inside of transmission or could anyone been in this situation help put it in gear started it in gear and drove slow no slipping but all my fluid is gone .leaked under trainy!
I have the original trans out of my G5 but, having a very hard time getting the new trans in!!! I don't have a trans jack! Just regular jacks. I am doing this job in a gravel driveway on a hill= NIGHTMARE!!!!! ITS NOT LINNING UP & GOING IN!!!! P.s. when pulling tie rod ends from a knuckle, pound on the metal of the knuckle below the tie rod end, between where it attaches & where the bolt goes in, (rite under the tie rod, hit the knuckle, not the tie rod end) I really wish that I was on a level surface! Maybe it would go together easier?
Merci pour cette aperçu de ce gros travail de ce modèle de Saturn Ion !Je suis en train de faire la job de clutch,je trouve qu'ils auraient pu simplifier la conception du bas de frame?Pour le défaire faut bien chauffer les 4 écroues avant d'utiliser le marteau pneumatique?Ca ma couter des bushing de tables de direction(1),...J'ai comme une question ,dans le débranchement de l'hydraulique?J'ai enlever le clip mais comment je fais sans endommager le tuyaux pour sortir la pression?Merci d'avance si je peu avoir une réponse quelle soit dans ma langue ou d'une autres correspondance elle seras bien venue...
I never leave comments but I gotta say man thanks for making this video. I've been working on my own cars/trucks for years, I know a lot of shit but I've never taken off the transmission or engine. I've watched this video twice now, it's long but it was well documented. Will watch once more before I start next month, just waiting on the flywheel. I feel confident because you have the exact same car Ion 3 except mine is black. Again thanks a lot man. Have you ever had a issue with the ignition switch? I bought mine with the white wire cut, I repaired it, installed new switch... first winter came, dropped below -20c and car just wouldn't start. I reconnected it in the summer and it actually happened again just yesterday on a rainy chilly day. I've been doing a lot of research, for days and the only solution I have found was to use 2 relays with a resistor. Have you experienced this with your Ion and if so how did you fix it?
A little update... just like another commenter said below... do not remove anything from up top like the fuse box. The starter can stay on as well. Just make sure your electric connections are disconnected, they are all behind engine (4-5 of them), 2 shifter cables, and just make sure everything is not attached to the transmission other then the engine. Drop the sub frame. Leave the control arm, wheel bearing assembly connected to subframe, don't take off lower ball joint. I tied the wheel bearing assembly to the control arm so it wasn't hard on the ball joint when dropping subframe. If your transmission fluid is dark green like mine, get new fluid and redo the whole system (yes, the brakes too). I wouldn't recommend draining whole system because it will be harder to get air bubbles out. Instead just bleed from the slave cylinder using new fluid until it becomes clear. Also those plastic zip ties you said to cut in the video holding the wires to transmission, they are actually special clips you can undo. Do not cut them. They can be re-used.
quick question for anybody out here watching this do you all know how to replace the filter and the transmission? I know you're supposed to drain and replace the fluid after 50,000 miles and put an additive but I see no information out there about replacing the filter the auto parts store said there was two trying to find some info before I start messing with this.
Really? My 03 clutch just went and the trans shop said it's an 8 hour job and the subframe has to come out. I was hoping there was another way because I'm not paying $1200 to have someone else do it.
@@anerdiaz5225 I just did a clutch job on a 03' Ion and yes there is no other way to remove the trans without dropping the sub-frame as the sub-frame supports the engine and trans-axle. Its a huge pain in the butt but the book time on a clutch job on that make and model is 8-12 hours that is just labor not including parts so you could save over $1000 by doing the work yourself. If you have a frined willing to help and some air tools (even cheap harbor freight ones) the job goes a lot faster.
just remember you have to support the engine before removing the bolts to the lower mounts on the sub frame you do not have to use and shop crane you can get a support bar at harbor freight for $80 bucks that is what I used and it worked fine
Michael Crist it did get better. but also my flex pipe was breaking. And the outer layer started coming off and rattling. it had a huge crack in it and sounded like a ricer.
So i gotta ask bro, when you put in slave cylinder did you have to bleed it first and then install? Guy did mine says just back bleed it but I just keep loosing pressure after about hour..nothings leaking and everythings brand new
For the most part, you also have to remove the torque converter bolts, and maybe some extra electrical connectors. And the shift cable may be different
Hey does anyone know where I can find a cheap hydraulic clutch line? Mine wouldnt come out. Price is at 102 for a part that might fit because its discontinued
I found this: www.carid.com/mcleod/stainless-steel-hydraulic-line-mpn-139222.html?singleid=1715771496&url=13312735 I am not sure if it is correct. It says stainless steel, I remember the line beIng made of plastic. Also maybe try a salvage yard
im trying to figure out if you had to remove the flywheel to torque converter bolts off to remove transmission? i stripped a bolt and now looking for a way around it.
James Op I don't think you would have enough clearance to slide the transmission and engine apart enough to lift it out of the top. because of the input shafts on the transmission
I am only talking about the CV cup rubber that holds the joint in, don't pry on that just pop that clip loose and you can reuse it. As far as pulling the actual cup off he's right, use a pry bar LOL
Just so anyone else who does not want to disconnect their brake line, there are two small holes to the right facing the wheel well, go to ziplock tie through there and pull it out, try your darndest to hold that caliper up with your left hand and run your zip tie through the big square hole, the red caliper will be out of your way
BRONSONBIZI make sure it is perfectly alligned. it has to be going on perfectly straight. also make sure the crank shafts splines and the input shafts splines match, you can turn the input shafts by putting in one of the cv axles and turning it.
Dylan McClelland so I managed to get the transmission on and all the bolts on, but the trans isn't fully touching the engine. Will it come together as I tightened the bolts down. I can't turn the flywheel from the opposite side anymore . Also have trouble aligning the rear transmission mount.
BRONSONBIZI did you get the transmission on yet? if so what was the hold up? just curious because Im getting ready to do this to my 04 Saturn ION automatic trans because of a rear main seal leak
ddemier yes, it was frustrating at first. So what happened was I put some bolts in and that was my mistake. I grinded some of the teeth from the clutch disc. I had to take it apart again, luckily a local transmission shop fixed the teeth. Man I almost lost 600 bucks. My 2nd attempt I really took my time. I used some pin punch tools from hope depot for my Brembo calipers and used those as guides. The splines slipped right in.
is this job something you think I can tackle in my garage by myself on my 04 ion? i have a motorcycle to ride while I do this job. what tips and tricks would you give me for getting this job done and getting to that oil seal.
Yes, the clutch is between engine and transmission, and you need to unbolt the pressure plate from the flywheel. So the transmission needs to be completely removed.
the boost is rad. better than I thought it was going to be. pretty intense. like riding a 650 ninja, when the supercharger is running up at 5000rpm. Really starts kicking in about 3000rpm
I own it. You can find them for around $150 and up. www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-capacity-foldable-shop-crane-69514.html I think you can rent them for $20 bucks a day
1:00 uhh. You always disconnect the power +. Not the negative.. just because the car is 80% plastic..it doesn't mean it is you will not have a electrical 🔥...
+Dylan McClelland (Dylan6793) well at least i have a miata to daily. im at a catch to tackle this job myself. id probably take weeks to do it because id get frustrated easily. problem is my clutch chatters with the pedal released all the way, which means i need a new input shaft bearing as well. even more work
+Dylan McClelland (Dylan6793) update! what i thought was my input shaft bearing is my ac compressor. supposedly they make the same noise. i was jumpstarting my lawn mower and i see fluid under the car i smell it, no smell ok its water. so i turn off my ac and the "bearing noise" stops almost completeley!!!! so im going to get my compressor and belts looked at, so i glad i dont have to drop the subframe
Brian Stapleton incorrect, they have a flywheel, but no torque converter. Automatic has no flywheel but instead has a flex plate and a torque converter.
I am not an ace mechanic oh, but I am 62 years of age and I was a Machinery technician in the u.s. Coast Guard. Otherwise I'm a backyard mechanic who observes the obvious, it is important to read some of these announcements oh, so that you don't make the same mistake he is making. Using a pry bar to pop the CV joint out is going to rip the rubber from around the clip and then what? Yes you got it, then you will have to replace that piece of rubber
Hard to follow. You will bend you threads. Run your nut. On more till the end of the bolt sticks out. I have trouble. Following your instructions. Later.
I could have left all of the suspension together. But with the small work space I had between the fence and boat. I just wanted to get the subframe off by itself and then remove the transmission.
Ya, that was gonna be my thought. The issue here was that you thought you could do the job without removing the sub-frame, and attacked it from that perspective. All of the research I did said it would have to come off. If you had known that, I'm sure you realize all you had to loosen on the steering knuckles was the ball-joint mount, one side of each sway-bar link, and the steering tie rods. The rest can stay bolted to the strut and then you don't even have to tie up the calipers. The struts move enough to allow removal of the axles at the gearbox, and you just move the axles out of the way while still attached to the hub. You can still go either way with the rack-and-pinion. Tie it to the frame or drop it with the sub-frame. This video helped me A LOT with my 2007 Pontiac G5. Thank you.
even tho this old bruh.. this came when I needed it.. SO MUCH OF A THANK YOU!
Great walk-through and you included all the bolt/wrench measurements which to me is the worst part in trying to figure them all out. Thanks, really appreciate it.
I hope it helped
Thank god for youtube and thank god for those that post valuable videos!! I got quoted 1400 to replace my clutch. My buddy and I will be doing it next month
Good video! I have to do the transmission on my G5.. the rear subframe bolts that go threw the rear control arm mount was seized so, I really hope the front subframe bolts come out as easy as yours did.....Doubtful.....
Thank you for posting this. My 03 Ion 5 speed needs a clutch and slave cylinder and the trans shop wants 1200 to do it and I'd like to do it myself but didn't think it was doable in my driveway but maybe it is after all. It does seem quite intimidating though.
My transmission went out yesterday, on a 2007 pontiac G5 2.2 vin-F...I have had the rear bolts of the front subframe out & I replaced them with brand new bolts & I used antiseize but, the front bolts have never been out & I bet, they are seized!!! Any & all advice is welcomed! It was & is my daily! I need it back on the road asap!
I'm glad I have a car lift, its going to make this job so easy.
Jealous at your comment right now lol 😂 a lift would make it so much easier for me lmao scissor jacks suck at trying to jack up each side at the same time by myself 😅
just wanted to tell you thanks alot i got tired of paying people to switch out my cluthes just did it myself in a day your awesome
Bricks Long You saved a couple thousand bucks!
BEERS 'n GEARS dude i wish i could drink a case wit you dude you really changed the game for me you saved me more then just money you saved me time too i put in in the shop it takes a month to get it back
I am happy my videos helped you! That's why I made them. I hope this one wasn't too long. Thanks for the positive comment! Check out my review + Giveaway of GUNK tire shine!
Very helpful. Thanks. Planning to work on my 2.2 Saturn Vue clutch.
You are the man! I used this video and a Haynes manual to do my wife's 2006 Ion in a day.
+kakrofoon I'm happy this video helped you! Was it really done in a day?!
+Dylan McClelland (Dylan6793) Subframe off to subframe on in one day.... 5am to 9pm.
+Dylan McClelland (Dylan6793) Transmission jack helped a whole awful lot
This is probably a long shot, I’ve had my ion taken apart for some months now waiting on parts, I seem to have forgotten where a certain set of washers go, in the video you can see that washer at 1:10:54 next to the jack stand, I think they belong with the sub frame bolts but I can’t nail down where they belong! Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated, I just can’t see where they came from in the video!
Could be steering rack bolt washers 1:01:28
Thank you, sadly not, they still have their washers on them. These are much thinner and have pieces of metal sticking up around the inside of the washer.
@@wduran2000 strut washers maybe where it attaches to the hub?
Thank you so much for your help I actually found them in one of your other videos involving the front brakes they were the clips for the drum! Thank you so so so much! Have a wonderful year!
Have a 04 ion Redline, good video please make more on the ion due to not many related videos on TH-cam like this for this car.
I have the 06 saturn ion redline and really want to save the money and do it myself, I just don't know if I trust myself with such a task.. Never done car work so in depth, great video though thanks!
What did you end up doing? I'm in the same boat
Working on removing an automatic from a 03 ION right now. Going to try this by leaving the Struts, steering knuckles and entire brake caliper and rotors in place. Thanks for the video.
+98eck Were you able to make that work?
+Dylan McClelland (Dylan6793) yep.
I have a 03 ion and need to remove the automatic transmission to get to rear main seal. what were the torque specs for the fly wheel and transmission housing?
ddemier Torque converter to driveplate bolts are 46 Ft lbs, Transaxle to engine bolts are 66 Ft lbs.
yea but is the space for a 2004 Saturn Ion with automatic? is this job pretty easy for a someone who has been in the collision repair industry? every time I work on my ion im amazed at how easy they are compared to other makes and models
You are a god for this video, hope you are well brother.
Hey thanks for sharing this I’m working a 2004 Saturn ion 👍
Update currently gotta change the clutch and slave cylinder in mine but I didn't have to take the A-arm off considering it's connected to the subframe already currently just having a problem with trying to figure out what comes off next
You can get the procedure shops use from a website WWW.CHARM.LI
It's legit site I have software that has all that info in it. Someone extracted the info from the software and made a website with it.
Hi there, i have 2004 ion automatic could you please help me ! Where is the. Transmission solenoid located, i have car taken apart but nothing looks like there part i bought at auto parts. Thanks
Is this the same procedure for Redline? I have a 2006 Comp Redline that I think the TOB is leaking because I have random pedal pressure loss
Thanks for sharing! It's a big help too if we have the repair manual. It is stressful job.
I have a 2006 Saturn ion3. Been parked for 6 months and nothing wrong when i parked it. I replaced the 2 front tires and took it for a drive. After 3 miles i pressed the clutch to slow down and it started knocking. Though it might be a bubble in the tire since they were used but i realized it was more of a metal sound. It stops when i press the gas pedal. But then i couldn't put it into gears, had to release the clutch and try again and it finally went into gear. But the knocking continues when i release the gas but still has a weird humming noise has i drive. Do u have any idea where i should start looking
Can you post a video and give me a link?
where can I can find the tourque specs for my 04 Saturn ion with automatic transmission. I have a leaky rear main seal
Doesnt the clutch run off of the break fluid it all runs off the same system what's the hydrolic fluid for that goes in the transmission
I’m putting a torque converter on my 30 Saturn ion automatic do I have to take the computer and fuse box out to pull the transmission out?
Thank you sweet baby Jesus for your videos!!! So I followed your video but I’m stuck on some grounding wires. It’s the bolt with a built in nut. There’s four black ground wires, one comes from the frame and two the come from the starter wiring bundle. I’m not sure where all four wires are supposed to be bolted onto. Hopefully this make sense.
Oh man what a big help your video was for me!!! Thanks all hold lot :-)
Thanks for the positive comment!
thanks for the video.my car is the exact same but it is stuck on first gear is there a trick to putting it in neutral my clutch ain't doing nothing
First I would check the fluid level for the clutch. If that is low, you must have a leak, slave cylinder, hydraulic line, you should be able to see the fluid leaking.
If the fluid level is fine, it may be a bad slave cylinder. I would also check transmission oil level too, on this car it did not use gear oil, it used ATF if I remember correctly.
You should be able to shift out of gear while the car is not running.
Bought a totally beat up ion 5 speed with 200k miles on it for 1500. Do you think it would even be worth fixing if i have bearing grinding noises in first and second gear, or just ride this thing out till it doesn't ride anymore.
The real question I have is how do I put it back on 😂
Well when it comes to putting it back together, just reverse what you did when you took it apart. If you have a problem with this you need to write a diagram on some notebook paper. Please don't take it apart, unless you know how to put it back together. Have a great day!
So i got this guy gonna sell me the same suv for $400 just needs a clutch everything eles is perfect is it worth it to buy and replace the clutch?
14:19. I think you never mark it the strut...to save money on alligment.. now the car is going to need a new alligment and maybe the car will wear out the tire or pull to one side??.
2002 eco tech 2.2 litre SUE is is slave cylinder is inside of transmission or could anyone been in this situation help put it in gear started it in gear and drove slow no slipping but all my fluid is gone .leaked under trainy!
I have the original trans out of my G5 but, having a very hard time getting the new trans in!!! I don't have a trans jack! Just regular jacks. I am doing this job in a gravel driveway on a hill= NIGHTMARE!!!!! ITS NOT LINNING UP & GOING IN!!!! P.s. when pulling tie rod ends from a knuckle, pound on the metal of the knuckle below the tie rod end, between where it attaches & where the bolt goes in, (rite under the tie rod, hit the knuckle, not the tie rod end) I really wish that I was on a level surface! Maybe it would go together easier?
Man, working on a cement floor makes it much easier, for sure.
So I have a 2003 Saturn ion 2.2 coupe I just replaced the clutch and it's and it's not grabbing the gears
Was it air in the clutch line?
thanks I just picked up a redline. ive been curious what I'm getting into. Ile definitely use your vid as reference. awesome car
You bought it with a bad clutch?
nope it's cherry, runs strong. picked it up for 2400, with 130000. single owner. Really taken care of. luvin it:)
How do you like the supercharger? Mine lacks that feature.
BEERS 'n GEARS I also have a redline with 130000 miles on it and I will say the supercharger is an amazing feature! I love it!!
Merci pour cette aperçu de ce gros travail de ce modèle de Saturn Ion !Je suis en train de faire la job de clutch,je trouve qu'ils auraient pu simplifier la conception du bas de frame?Pour le défaire faut bien chauffer les 4 écroues avant d'utiliser le marteau pneumatique?Ca ma couter des bushing de tables de direction(1),...J'ai comme une question ,dans le débranchement de l'hydraulique?J'ai enlever le clip mais comment je fais sans endommager le tuyaux pour sortir la pression?Merci d'avance si je peu avoir une réponse quelle soit dans ma langue ou d'une autres correspondance elle seras bien venue...
You think someone who doesn't work on cars can or should try to pull this off? If I had a second car I would
I never leave comments but I gotta say man thanks for making this video. I've been working on my own cars/trucks for years, I know a lot of shit but I've never taken off the transmission or engine. I've watched this video twice now, it's long but it was well documented. Will watch once more before I start next month, just waiting on the flywheel. I feel confident because you have the exact same car Ion 3 except mine is black. Again thanks a lot man.
Have you ever had a issue with the ignition switch? I bought mine with the white wire cut, I repaired it, installed new switch... first winter came, dropped below -20c and car just wouldn't start. I reconnected it in the summer and it actually happened again just yesterday on a rainy chilly day. I've been doing a lot of research, for days and the only solution I have found was to use 2 relays with a resistor. Have you experienced this with your Ion and if so how did you fix it?
A little update... just like another commenter said below... do not remove anything from up top like the fuse box. The starter can stay on as well. Just make sure your electric connections are disconnected, they are all behind engine (4-5 of them), 2 shifter cables, and just make sure everything is not attached to the transmission other then the engine. Drop the sub frame. Leave the control arm, wheel bearing assembly connected to subframe, don't take off lower ball joint. I tied the wheel bearing assembly to the control arm so it wasn't hard on the ball joint when dropping subframe.
If your transmission fluid is dark green like mine, get new fluid and redo the whole system (yes, the brakes too). I wouldn't recommend draining whole system because it will be harder to get air bubbles out. Instead just bleed from the slave cylinder using new fluid until it becomes clear.
Also those plastic zip ties you said to cut in the video holding the wires to transmission, they are actually special clips you can undo. Do not cut them. They can be re-used.
quick question for anybody out here watching this do you all know how to replace the filter and the transmission? I know you're supposed to drain and replace the fluid after 50,000 miles and put an additive but I see no information out there about replacing the filter the auto parts store said there was two trying to find some info before I start messing with this.
you didnt need to drop the sub frame out just lower it on the left. that clutch job takes about 45 min
Really? My 03 clutch just went and the trans shop said it's an 8 hour job and the subframe has to come out. I was hoping there was another way because I'm not paying $1200 to have someone else do it.
Does it need to be removed to take out the whole trans?
@@anerdiaz5225 I just did a clutch job on a 03' Ion and yes there is no other way to remove the trans without dropping the sub-frame as the sub-frame supports the engine and trans-axle. Its a huge pain in the butt but the book time on a clutch job on that make and model is 8-12 hours that is just labor not including parts so you could save over $1000 by doing the work yourself. If you have a frined willing to help and some air tools (even cheap harbor freight ones) the job goes a lot faster.
just remember you have to support the engine before removing the bolts to the lower mounts on the sub frame you do not have to use and shop crane you can get a support bar at harbor freight for $80 bucks that is what I used and it worked fine
@@JP_Stone could I just use like maybe some blocks or a Jack to support it?
Props doing this video while working 💪 on it
Good vid. Does yours still rattle at low rpm after you replaced that heat shield or did that fix it? Super annoying sounds like crap
Michael Crist it did get better. but also my flex pipe was breaking. And the outer layer started coming off and rattling. it had a huge crack in it and sounded like a ricer.
So i gotta ask bro, when you put in slave cylinder did you have to bleed it first and then install? Guy did mine says just back bleed it but I just keep loosing pressure after about hour..nothings leaking and everythings brand new
I did not bleed it before installing
Must be using a nice camera because, the video quality is very nice!
Would this be the same way to replace a transmission on a 2004 automatic Saturn ion?
For the most part, you also have to remove the torque converter bolts, and maybe some extra electrical connectors. And the shift cable may be different
BEERS 'n GEARS also do you know if a 2003 or 2005 Saturn ion transmission can work for the 04 ?
Hey does anyone know where I can find a cheap hydraulic clutch line? Mine wouldnt come out. Price is at 102 for a part that might fit because its discontinued
I found this: www.carid.com/mcleod/stainless-steel-hydraulic-line-mpn-139222.html?singleid=1715771496&url=13312735
I am not sure if it is correct. It says stainless steel, I remember the line beIng made of plastic.
Also maybe try a salvage yard
Okay will an automatic transmission still have the same hydraulic clutch line
@@cmholt97 no
Is this similar to a 4t45e?
im trying to figure out if you had to remove the flywheel to torque converter bolts off to remove transmission? i stripped a bolt and now looking for a way around it.
James Op auto or manual?
BEERS 'n GEARS it's manual
There is no torque converter. It is a pressure plate. You do not have to remove the pressure plate to remove the transmission.
So is it the same if I wanted to pull the motor out the top? Just unbolt the transmission from the motor and out it goes? Essentially.
James Op I don't think you would have enough clearance to slide the transmission and engine apart enough to lift it out of the top. because of the input shafts on the transmission
I am only talking about the CV cup rubber that holds the joint in, don't pry on that just pop that clip loose and you can reuse it. As far as pulling the actual cup off he's right, use a pry bar LOL
So how many years did this take you...?😄 Great video man! ☝🏻
How long did it take you to do?
Very informative.thanks man
Just so anyone else who does not want to disconnect their brake line, there are two small holes to the right facing the wheel well, go to ziplock tie through there and pull it out, try your darndest to hold that caliper up with your left hand and run your zip tie through the big square hole, the red caliper will be out of your way
Wouldnt it be easier just to pull the engine and trans thru the top as an assembly. Then pull the trans off the motor.
It won't fit
Input output Speed sensor location
Finally. Thank you sir.
Finally? You're welcome!
Having trouble getting the transmission back on. Any advice on how to accomplish this?
BRONSONBIZI make sure it is perfectly alligned. it has to be going on perfectly straight. also make sure the crank shafts splines and the input shafts splines match, you can turn the input shafts by putting in one of the cv axles and turning it.
Dylan McClelland so I managed to get the transmission on and all the bolts on, but the trans isn't fully touching the engine. Will it come together as I tightened the bolts down. I can't turn the flywheel from the opposite side anymore . Also have trouble aligning the rear transmission mount.
BRONSONBIZI did you get the transmission on yet? if so what was the hold up? just curious because Im getting ready to do this to my 04 Saturn ION automatic trans because of a rear main seal leak
ddemier yes, it was frustrating at first. So what happened was I put some bolts in and that was my mistake. I grinded some of the teeth from the clutch disc. I had to take it apart again, luckily a local transmission shop fixed the teeth. Man I almost lost 600 bucks. My 2nd attempt I really took my time. I used some pin punch tools from hope depot for my Brembo calipers and used those as guides. The splines slipped right in.
is this job something you think I can tackle in my garage by myself on my 04 ion? i have a motorcycle to ride while I do this job. what tips and tricks would you give me for getting this job done and getting to that oil seal.
I need help on 2004 throttle body
what's up?
Is it absolutely required to drop the transmission if the clutch needs to be replaced?
Yes, the clutch is between engine and transmission, and you need to unbolt the pressure plate from the flywheel. So the transmission needs to be completely removed.
the boost is rad. better than I thought it was going to be. pretty intense. like riding a 650 ninja, when the supercharger is running up at 5000rpm. Really starts kicking in about 3000rpm
How many hours did it take you to do this?
Not sure. I was busy with school, had to order some parts and recording slowed me down as well. I'd say can be done in a weekend.
Is that your engine hoist or did u rent it? How much is one or how much is it to rent one?
Also great video dude
I own it. You can find them for around $150 and up. www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-capacity-foldable-shop-crane-69514.html
I think you can rent them for $20 bucks a day
wow that was awesome!
You know you don't need an engine hoist. A board across the fenders and ratchet strap works fine and no legs in the way
justin kitelinger how do you lower the engine?
1:00 uhh. You always disconnect the power +. Not the negative.. just because the car is 80% plastic..it doesn't mean it is you will not have a electrical 🔥...
now i know why the shop said "oh" when i told them what car needed transmission work
LOL, front wheel drive cars are always more work than rear wheel drive cars
+Dylan McClelland (Dylan6793) well at least i have a miata to daily. im at a catch to tackle this job myself. id probably take weeks to do it because id get frustrated easily. problem is my clutch chatters with the pedal released all the way, which means i need a new input shaft bearing as well. even more work
+Dylan McClelland (Dylan6793)
update!
what i thought was my input shaft bearing is my ac compressor. supposedly they make the same noise. i was jumpstarting my lawn mower and i see fluid under the car i smell it, no smell ok its water. so i turn off my ac and the "bearing noise" stops almost completeley!!!! so im going to get my compressor and belts looked at, so i glad i dont have to drop the subframe
same lol
BEERS 'n GEARS is it the same for an automatic
Great vid lol helped a lot
manual transmission no fly wheel no torque converter but the answer to that is no the torque converter should stay I the bell housing
Brian Stapleton incorrect, they have a flywheel, but no torque converter. Automatic has no flywheel but instead has a flex plate and a torque converter.
Thank you so much!
This dude sounds like a super young Rick from Rick and Morty.
Good job
When removing a balljoint, hit the knuckle! Not the bolt!!! Beat the crap out of the knuckle rite by the balljoint.
I always remove the engine, trans and subframe. much easier than this way! Then you just pick the engine up off the assembly!
The redline isn’t turboed it’s supercharged
I knew that. I don't know why I said turbo.
good video
NEVER support the engine without a block of wood to prevent crushing the oil pan
I am not an ace mechanic oh, but I am 62 years of age and I was a Machinery technician in the u.s. Coast Guard. Otherwise I'm a backyard mechanic who observes the obvious, it is important to read some of these announcements oh, so that you don't make the same mistake he is making. Using a pry bar to pop the CV joint out is going to rip the rubber from around the clip and then what? Yes you got it, then you will have to replace that piece of rubber
Ummmm no
To get that tie rod off just smack the side of that thing.
Wineman Dinem I like my method, it's scary and wakes me up for several more hours of work. lol!
Hard to follow. You will bend you threads. Run your nut. On more till the end of the bolt sticks out. I have trouble. Following your instructions. Later.
thanks
Its a strut.....
Theres an easier way to remove the subframe without removing near as much.
I could have left all of the suspension together. But with the small work space I had between the fence and boat. I just wanted to get the subframe off by itself and then remove the transmission.
YES BUT YOU DIDN'T NEED TO UNBOLT AXLES. YOU DEFINITELY NEEDED TO DROP SUBFRAME. ,
Ya, that was gonna be my thought. The issue here was that you thought you could do the job without removing the sub-frame, and attacked it from that perspective. All of the research I did said it would have to come off. If you had known that, I'm sure you realize all you had to loosen on the steering knuckles was the ball-joint mount, one side of each sway-bar link, and the steering tie rods. The rest can stay bolted to the strut and then you don't even have to tie up the calipers. The struts move enough to allow removal of the axles at the gearbox, and you just move the axles out of the way while still attached to the hub. You can still go either way with the rack-and-pinion. Tie it to the frame or drop it with the sub-frame. This video helped me A LOT with my 2007 Pontiac G5. Thank you.
Nice FRUIT OF THE LOOMs. That's what I wear, too.
value body
Value body
Rack and pinion
CHRIST WHAT A MESS
Qq
value body