*Thank you* for the clear and correct voice-over. It's excruciating to sit and listen to the "ums" and "uhs" and "This is different on my other car" that some people unwittingly put in.
I did this repair and between 2 people the rear retaining bolt reinstall took close to 4 hrs to install. This video is a great guide but be aware there can be issues that are unforeseen when doing car repairs. In my case the housing that retained the rear portion of the control arm was under great tension. The tension would not allow me to enter the bolt at 90 degrees. Through some sweat and curse words i was able to bang it into place. Always have a back up plan in place aka a tow truck rental and a knowledgeable mechanic as a back up if you run into trouble. I followed this video to the letter and it was a great help.
what I did for the retainers on the subframe bolts, I took a paint marker and made a small mark at the same spot on each retainer and the subframe, used different colors, but now I knew the orientation for reinstall. Great video.
Well done video. Best I've seen for this job on this car. Loved the little tips about aligning bolts with pin punch and pry bar. Also the recommendation to replace the whole control arm rather than mess with the bushing and a ball joint sometime later. (Which has to have the rivets drilled out and replaced by bolts).
Great video, thanks for the step by step. The only detail I found was that all the hardware on my car was standard sizes. For anyone watching just check the bolts sizes mine were definitely not metric, so use standard if needed to keep the bolts from getting damaged. Thanks again for this video.
Awesome video did you ever replace shocks or struts before this mileage point I'm at one76,000And about to do new discs pads struts and sway bar links and bushings in the front this is without any inspection it has a clunk and fairly loose suspension but really not too bad
do you think it would be a good idea after all the bolts are in, not torqued down yet, but to put a jack under the control arm and lift it until the vehicle is barely off the jackstand and then do the final torque?
I followed the instructions that I had to the letter, and it didn’t mention doing this anywhere. I don’t think it would be necessary though, considering the bushings have a metal sleeve.
The bolt in the bushing won't come out I unscrew it but can't seem to pull it out pls help I used WD40 I think I need to hit it with a hammer somewhere.
So I bought ball joints thinking the ball joint it self was making the noise. Is there any way I can buy the control arm without the ball join already assembled?
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*Thank you* for the clear and correct voice-over. It's excruciating to sit and listen to the "ums" and "uhs" and "This is different on my other car" that some people unwittingly put in.
I did this repair and between 2 people the rear retaining bolt reinstall took close to 4 hrs to install. This video is a great guide but be aware there can be issues that are unforeseen when doing car repairs. In my case the housing that retained the rear portion of the control arm was under great tension. The tension would not allow me to enter the bolt at 90 degrees. Through some sweat and curse words i was able to bang it into place. Always have a back up plan in place aka a tow truck rental and a knowledgeable mechanic as a back up if you run into trouble. I followed this video to the letter and it was a great help.
Best DIY video I’ve ever seen.
Couldn’t have been done any better.
Congratulations to whoever made this!
This was very helpful and informative, very well done editing and details.
Clear, concise, and thorough video! Much appreciated!
WOW! i finally watched a video that was complete, start to finish and easy to follow! thank you very much!
what I did for the retainers on the subframe bolts, I took a paint marker and made a small mark at the same spot on each retainer and the subframe, used different colors, but now I knew the orientation for reinstall. Great video.
So those two 15mm top bolts don't need replacing like the21mm head cradle and pinch bolt? Been looking for this little bit of info
Well done video. Best I've seen for this job on this car. Loved the little tips about aligning bolts with pin punch and pry bar. Also the recommendation to replace the whole control arm rather than mess with the bushing and a ball joint sometime later. (Which has to have the rivets drilled out and replaced by bolts).
Great video, thanks for the step by step. The only detail I found was that all the hardware on my car was standard sizes. For anyone watching just check the bolts sizes mine were definitely not metric, so use standard if needed to keep the bolts from getting damaged. Thanks again for this video.
Made doing this for my mother-in-law a LOT more affordable. Thanks for the info!
More videos from this guy wouldn't hurt anyone
Very Good video, Short and Detailed. APPRECIATE. Good work.
Great vid! Right to the point and good details!
Such a well done, clearly explained video.
Awesome video did you ever replace shocks or struts before this mileage point I'm at one76,000And about to do new discs pads struts and sway bar links and bushings in the front this is without any inspection it has a clunk and fairly loose suspension but really not too bad
Saving this one!
To prevent premature failure of the control arm bushings the arm needs to be at ride height before being torqued down.
Thank you for the video!!!
Do NOT torque the lower control arm bolts to 158ft/lbs or you will break the cage nut, I broke both of mine, just do 100
do you think it would be a good idea after all the bolts are in, not torqued down yet, but to put a jack under the control arm and lift it until the vehicle is barely off the jackstand and then do the final torque?
I followed the instructions that I had to the letter, and it didn’t mention doing this anywhere. I don’t think it would be necessary though, considering the bushings have a metal sleeve.
gracias amigo, eso es lo que le falta cambiar a mi saturn ion 2007, ya le cambie la barra estabilizadora y la terminal... saludos
I can’t get the bolt that holds the ball joint in out. I used my big brushless impact and it doesn’t want to come off
Nice video.
Where can I buy a lower control arm without the ball joint? Since I already have new ball joints
nowhere. You cannot buy something that does not exist.
I need my mechanic to do this. It does seem to be a time consuming job, but a bummer to get underneath and get the bolts loose
Does NOT seem to take too long. But, I font have a host. Plus, it's a steering mechanism and I font want to wing it.
What is the name of the rod that had the black cover?
You might be talking about the CV shaft with the boot that looks like an accordion.
How long should this take a mechanic to do?
With a lift and all the proper tools, I dunno. A few hours maybe. Didn’t take me very long.
The bolt in the bushing won't come out I unscrew it but can't seem to pull it out pls help I used WD40 I think I need to hit it with a hammer somewhere.
@JAA heat.
Hit it! Had to do the same!
Were u located? We can do mine this weekend
158 ft. pounds! Wow!! I Did it!!!
So I bought ball joints thinking the ball joint it self was making the noise. Is there any way I can buy the control arm without the ball join already assembled?
Maybe try Rock Auto. Not sure. I didn’t buy it like that.