Was going through a SAB check list. And in the end they mention replacing the plastic nuts and screws and metal screws after 3 removals. In the kraken manuals state replacing the plastic nuts and bolts even after a soft crash. Thought of sharing that
Locknuts are only good for so long. The retaining lock part of the nut which is the nylon wears out after so many times of it being removed. I have found they’ve last a whole lot longer than what they recommend.
Once more great educational video! Question: at around 5.30 - 5.38 is see that the ball link has some damage from the use of a ball link plier. What are your thoughts on that, should a ball link be replaced with this damage? Tip: For better visual check of the feathering shaft, put a blade on at 90 degrees. While rotating the feathering shaft, the blade will go up and down if the feathering shaft is bended.
Thank you! No, any little marks in the bowling from the pliers or anything else is OK. They are plastic and they’re going to get marked up what you’re looking for is cracking and white stress cracks. That is another great tip, that works as well with the blade folded 90°.
Damn... though i fly RC airplanes since 2010, there was not so much of maintenance issue.. now i got interest in helis and seeing all this routine work with helis after every crash, kinda scares me :D seems they take a lot of time. I just hope that going through all this stuff is not as long and hard as it looks :)
So every crash of course is going to be different. Personally, I don’t crash that often so for me, I use it as a maintenance day/rebuild. The best part about helicopters, no matter how bad the crash they can be built back to brand new! I definitely wouldn’t let it deter you from getting into the helicopter side. Coming from the Plane side as well. I personally find it more rewarding and challenging, as well as a lot more fun to fly helicopters, build helicopters and repair them!
It isn’t and also is very relaxing and satisfying seeing that you can tear down a complete helicopter and build it again, taking it to the field and seeing it rocking is so awesome. Well is not so cool crash it but you get me what I’m saying hahah
@@westhobbiesrc8051 Heh thank you :) yes helis can be more rewarding. I don't know why wasn't getting into them earlier. There was huge popularity of drones quadcopters and i was positioning myself as a loyal fan of airplanes, i didn't like quadcopters because their flight didn't look natural, not to mention that they fall like a rock if you turn motors off, while airplane can glide like a bird, which was giving me that 'magic'. I kinda thought that helis just will fall down like a rock too, but then i discovered such thing as autorotation and wow, i realized that helis actually can 'glide' too, in their own way. It was quite a surprise for me. Then i thought hmmm, maybe i could get a big or medium heli :) also not to mention nice 3d tricks it can do unlike quadcopters. So i guess heli is that sweet middle between planes and drones.
The rescue switch has saved my M2 so many times. See it falling out of the sky press the switch and punch it and it's usually alright, won't save you from trees though lol. I bet the ikons rescue is just as good but haven't tested it yet on the 420
Rescue is a great thing to have. I said it off on every helicopter and don’t always use it on every helicopter. This particular one I did not set it up as I set it up for speed flying in not 3-D flying lol.
I've crashed and fixed the OMP M2 so many times - it is educational to learn what breaks, how to fix it, and confidence inspiring to know it's an easy fix no matter what.
I always knew this channel was going to become successful I subscribe to this channel when he didn't even have 1000 subs but I knew with those beautiful helicopters and his great commentary the channel would do great
Hey well done sir, sound advise often its the small things that get missed in a rebuild and if your rebuilding you should check everything , saves another crash, great you made a video its the first I've seen giving the correct advise for a crash repair. fantastic what else can isay another great informative video. Ive crashed so many times over the years but for the last 250-300 flights touch wood or carbon, I've managed to overcome the crash bang wallop phase, but it happens to us all as we know, great information and thanks for putting it out there. all the best guys.
Thank you! I figured it would be a great video for somebody maybe new to the hobby or not really sure what they should be looking for after they crashed their helicopter. Unfortunately, it is part of the hobby and we all crash no matter what. Thank you for watching!
@@MARKLINMAN1 it’s not a short cut, if it’s not bent or you want to check why pull the head or tail apart to see. Spin the shaft it’s it moves even the slightest pull it apart and then roll on glass.
Well, got to do that yesterday night. And i even had a good idea of what happend, when it happend. Lost control of the tail, heli started spinning. Thought i had a broken ball joint on the tail servo. Cut the motor, and tried auto rotation, but too late. Big crash, broke both carbon sides, landing gear, undercarrige, alu tail attachment bended, main shaft like a U , swash stuck in the bend, feathering shaft bend, one blade grip bend, tail shaft bend, canopy destroyed and a single main blade cracked. A total write off. Spares vs. a new kit is in, at a difference of only $100... But all linkage to the tail was still in great shape. (???) The culprit was the set screw that had backed out, from the tail assambly to the tail shaft, despite loctite. But i have to give credits to MSH for there Evolution tail-boom design, not a single scratch. ( I think the tail impact did bend the alu support, so it's incredible strong design in that boom.) Even that it's a very loooong boom at my Protos 770X Evo. So inspection at home after some flights, i'll highly advice that, to check all screws regularly, and do a good pre-flight check. I had 60 flights in, at 4 days.
Awesome vid bro again wonderful tips. I have a question here, how you actually manage to tear down a complete feathering shaft because I’m always able to remove one specific blade grip with all the bearings but the other it’s not coming apart, so do you use any special tool that no one speaks of, or how you manage to have some grip on the shaft without scratching it with pliers-like tools. Sorry for my bad english, greetings from Venezuela
So the best thing you can do is get yourself a feathering shaft tool. Basically it has a one-way bearing in it and it allows you to slide it over the feathering shaft and get the other screw loose. Also, another great tip is use heat! Keep the feathering shaft bolt up with the soldering iron to around 800° it will let the Loctite loose and come out with ease.
You always will, you first look at the model think it’s not that bad, or think it’s terrible, and when you get home and spend some time to even find out, it’s worse than you thought, or better than you thought!
One way I check my main rotor shaft and tail shaft is to remove the blades, power up and spin up the system looking for wobble. Is that a problem or OK to do? I look at is as being similar to putting it in the drill but without having to remove it from the heli.
You can definitely check the main shaft like that. There is a different ways, I personally like to pull it as it could mess something like bearing up if it’s bent bad and make more issues. But it’s a slight bend I don’t see a problem with it.
Hey Jeff, quick question regarding testing the bent feathering shaft, should I test it with the ball links connected to the swash and the blade grips like you did? The reason I ask is, my blade grips don't move when the ball links are installed. They do move however when they're not installed. Is it normal for blade grips to move if those ball links aren't installed? Would this mean I should replace my feathering shaft?
So technically no, you should not have to remove them. But! If there is a ever so slight bend in the shaft it might not move up/down with them connected. I would pull the shaft out and roll it on a peace of glass to make sure it’s straight if it’s moving the grip up/down.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 might as well get a new one, I need new blades too. I didn't have my Ikon set up correctly and it pile drived itself into the grass when I was testing it 🤣. Needed a new tail boom and smoked all the gears in my servos because I was using the metal servo horns, because I thought they looked cool. Real hard lesson I had to learn I guess....
okay...soo...i havent had a crash since putting in a new spindle..what would be the cause of one of my grips will move slightly at a certain point while turning it?..i even dissasembled it ..took my spindle out..and i rolled it on a flat surface while looking to see if i could see any light under it while rolling it...and nothing...it rolls perfect with no wobble ..so the spindle is not bent...would it be a sign its time to put new bearings into my grips?...i checked for slop..and have very very minimal play in them with the blades on ..any suggestions would be grreatly apprciated!
How do the bearings feel? Are they gritty or Naci? Is it aluminum or plastic blade grip? If aluminum blade grips, the actual grip could be bent itself. It could also be a bad bearing, causing it to slightly move, but I would check the blade grip.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 i have the aluminum dfc upgrade head ..my bearings feel fine when i insert the spindle into a bearing and spin it.. did feel a slight bit of notchy-nes ..but only while holding the bearing still ..and spinning the feathrn shaft while holding it to one side.. an angle..and then its just the slightest bit of gritty feeling..when its in the head..and its being held in straight..its like butter....and Thanku very much wes for responding..im sure help requests questions are neverending...so i super apprciate cha my man! tyvm!..im not sure what to look at for a bent gril tho🤔..i know the grips i have on that came in the upgrade kit have never seen a crash...i do have a backup set of the same ones tho...i bought two of the kits so i would have one for backup
![[TH] 2024 PMSL SEA W2D1 | Fall | ต่อเนื่อง ในสัปดาห์สอง](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ElcO9uC_Dbk/mqdefault.jpg)
I always checked main and feathering shafts by rolling them on a piece of glass or a mirror.
Great video!
@@nintendodoterk that is a great way to check them! If I think there bent I always just replace. Thank you for watching!
good tip on using the drill and checking ANY shaft for straightness.
Thank you! That is a tip. I learned from my grandfather, who is a machinist.
Aha, you do have a video on what to check after crash, thank you!
@@mikefuchs2814 I try and have videos for every thing! Thank you!
Wow i have a lot to learn. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos.
There is a ton to learn with helis! But you will learn it all on this channel!
Thanks for the walk through of what to look at after a crash just what we newbies need thank you
You’re welcome! Thank you for watching!
My credit card.
you wanna pay for the repairs? Lol yes got to check the credit card! helicopter is already rebuilt!
@@westhobbiesrc8051 That was my answer for "What to look for after you crash".
I know, I was just messing with you lol
Excellent info.
Thank you! I appreciate it.
Was going through a SAB check list. And in the end they mention replacing the plastic nuts and screws and metal screws after 3 removals. In the kraken manuals state replacing the plastic nuts and bolts even after a soft crash. Thought of sharing that
Locknuts are only good for so long. The retaining lock part of the nut which is the nylon wears out after so many times of it being removed. I have found they’ve last a whole lot longer than what they recommend.
Once more great educational video!
Question: at around 5.30 - 5.38 is see that the ball link has some damage from the use of a ball link plier. What are your thoughts on that, should a ball link be replaced with this damage?
Tip: For better visual check of the feathering shaft, put a blade on at 90 degrees. While rotating the feathering shaft, the blade will go up and down if the feathering shaft is bended.
Thank you! No, any little marks in the bowling from the pliers or anything else is OK. They are plastic and they’re going to get marked up what you’re looking for is cracking and white stress cracks. That is another great tip, that works as well with the blade folded 90°.
Damn... though i fly RC airplanes since 2010, there was not so much of maintenance issue.. now i got interest in helis and seeing all this routine work with helis after every crash, kinda scares me :D seems they take a lot of time. I just hope that going through all this stuff is not as long and hard as it looks :)
So every crash of course is going to be different. Personally, I don’t crash that often so for me, I use it as a maintenance day/rebuild. The best part about helicopters, no matter how bad the crash they can be built back to brand new! I definitely wouldn’t let it deter you from getting into the helicopter side. Coming from the Plane side as well. I personally find it more rewarding and challenging, as well as a lot more fun to fly helicopters, build helicopters and repair them!
It isn’t and also is very relaxing and satisfying seeing that you can tear down a complete helicopter and build it again, taking it to the field and seeing it rocking is so awesome. Well is not so cool crash it but you get me what I’m saying hahah
@@westhobbiesrc8051 Heh thank you :) yes helis can be more rewarding. I don't know why wasn't getting into them earlier. There was huge popularity of drones quadcopters and i was positioning myself as a loyal fan of airplanes, i didn't like quadcopters because their flight didn't look natural, not to mention that they fall like a rock if you turn motors off, while airplane can glide like a bird, which was giving me that 'magic'. I kinda thought that helis just will fall down like a rock too, but then i discovered such thing as autorotation and wow, i realized that helis actually can 'glide' too, in their own way. It was quite a surprise for me. Then i thought hmmm, maybe i could get a big or medium heli :) also not to mention nice 3d tricks it can do unlike quadcopters. So i guess heli is that sweet middle between planes and drones.
@@westhobbiesrc8051Agreed, as an RC plane pilot, I also find RC helis more challenging and rewarding!
The rescue switch has saved my M2 so many times. See it falling out of the sky press the switch and punch it and it's usually alright, won't save you from trees though lol. I bet the ikons rescue is just as good but haven't tested it yet on the 420
Rescue is a great thing to have. I said it off on every helicopter and don’t always use it on every helicopter. This particular one I did not set it up as I set it up for speed flying in not 3-D flying lol.
I've crashed and fixed the OMP M2 so many times - it is educational to learn what breaks, how to fix it, and confidence inspiring to know it's an easy fix no matter what.
I always knew this channel was going to become successful I subscribe to this channel when he didn't even have 1000 subs but I knew with those beautiful helicopters and his great commentary the channel would do great
Thank you! I remember when you first subscribed, I appreciate the support and continuing, watching and supporting the channel!
Great video as usual brother!!
If you’re wondering if the main shaft is bent replace it 😅
Thank you! on my bigger helis I always replace the main shaft no matter what after a crash but on the small ones I don’t if there good.
Great video thanks for the hard work. Peace 🚁🚁
Thank you! I greatly appreciate it. I’m glad the video was helpful.
nice thank you greetings from swiss✌️
Hey well done sir, sound advise often its the small things that get missed in a rebuild and if your rebuilding you should check everything , saves another crash, great you made a video its the first I've seen giving the correct advise for a crash repair. fantastic what else can isay another great informative video. Ive crashed so many times over the years but for the last 250-300 flights touch wood or carbon, I've managed to overcome the crash bang wallop phase, but it happens to us all as we know, great information and thanks for putting it out there. all the best guys.
Thank you! I figured it would be a great video for somebody maybe new to the hobby or not really sure what they should be looking for after they crashed their helicopter. Unfortunately, it is part of the hobby and we all crash no matter what. Thank you for watching!
Best way to check your feathering or MAIN shaft is to roll it on a piece of GLASS!
Yes that works great as well but checking like this works every time without having to pull anything apart.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 That is just a short cut, not truly accurate, but ok. To each their own. 👍🏼👍🏼
@@MARKLINMAN1 it’s not a short cut, if it’s not bent or you want to check why pull the head or tail apart to see. Spin the shaft it’s it moves even the slightest pull it apart and then roll on glass.
Well, got to do that yesterday night.
And i even had a good idea of what happend, when it happend.
Lost control of the tail, heli started spinning.
Thought i had a broken ball joint on the tail servo.
Cut the motor, and tried auto rotation, but too late.
Big crash, broke both carbon sides, landing gear, undercarrige, alu tail attachment bended, main shaft like a U , swash stuck in the bend, feathering shaft bend, one blade grip bend, tail shaft bend, canopy destroyed and a single main blade cracked.
A total write off. Spares vs. a new kit is in, at a difference of only $100...
But all linkage to the tail was still in great shape. (???)
The culprit was the set screw that had backed out, from the tail assambly to the tail shaft, despite loctite.
But i have to give credits to MSH for there Evolution tail-boom design, not a single scratch. ( I think the tail impact did bend the alu support, so it's incredible strong design in that boom.)
Even that it's a very loooong boom at my Protos 770X Evo.
So inspection at home after some flights, i'll highly advice that, to check all screws regularly, and do a good pre-flight check.
I had 60 flights in, at 4 days.
Awesome vid bro again wonderful tips. I have a question here, how you actually manage to tear down a complete feathering shaft because I’m always able to remove one specific blade grip with all the bearings but the other it’s not coming apart, so do you use any special tool that no one speaks of, or how you manage to have some grip on the shaft without scratching it with pliers-like tools. Sorry for my bad english, greetings from Venezuela
So the best thing you can do is get yourself a feathering shaft tool. Basically it has a one-way bearing in it and it allows you to slide it over the feathering shaft and get the other screw loose. Also, another great tip is use heat! Keep the feathering shaft bolt up with the soldering iron to around 800° it will let the Loctite loose and come out with ease.
yes after I crashed my 330 I found a lot more than what I thought
You always will, you first look at the model think it’s not that bad, or think it’s terrible, and when you get home and spend some time to even find out, it’s worse than you thought, or better than you thought!
One way I check my main rotor shaft and tail shaft is to remove the blades, power up and spin up the system looking for wobble. Is that a problem or OK to do? I look at is as being similar to putting it in the drill but without having to remove it from the heli.
You can definitely check the main shaft like that. There is a different ways, I personally like to pull it as it could mess something like bearing up if it’s bent bad and make more issues. But it’s a slight bend I don’t see a problem with it.
I usually look for my heli first.😛
Hey Jeff, quick question regarding testing the bent feathering shaft, should I test it with the ball links connected to the swash and the blade grips like you did? The reason I ask is, my blade grips don't move when the ball links are installed. They do move however when they're not installed. Is it normal for blade grips to move if those ball links aren't installed? Would this mean I should replace my feathering shaft?
So technically no, you should not have to remove them. But! If there is a ever so slight bend in the shaft it might not move up/down with them connected. I would pull the shaft out and roll it on a peace of glass to make sure it’s straight if it’s moving the grip up/down.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 might as well get a new one, I need new blades too. I didn't have my Ikon set up correctly and it pile drived itself into the grass when I was testing it 🤣. Needed a new tail boom and smoked all the gears in my servos because I was using the metal servo horns, because I thought they looked cool. Real hard lesson I had to learn I guess....
What To Look For After You Crash...Bits and pieces...
There can be a lot of peace’s lol
@@westhobbiesrc8051 I also earned my crash badge...
okay...soo...i havent had a crash since putting in a new spindle..what would be the cause of one of my grips will move slightly at a certain point while turning it?..i even dissasembled it ..took my spindle out..and i rolled it on a flat surface while looking to see if i could see any light under it while rolling it...and nothing...it rolls perfect with no wobble ..so the spindle is not bent...would it be a sign its time to put new bearings into my grips?...i checked for slop..and have very very minimal play in them with the blades on ..any suggestions would be grreatly apprciated!
How do the bearings feel? Are they gritty or Naci? Is it aluminum or plastic blade grip? If aluminum blade grips, the actual grip could be bent itself. It could also be a bad bearing, causing it to slightly move, but I would check the blade grip.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 i have the aluminum dfc upgrade head ..my bearings feel fine when i insert the spindle into a bearing and spin it.. did feel a slight bit of notchy-nes ..but only while holding the bearing still ..and spinning the feathrn shaft while holding it to one side.. an angle..and then its just the slightest bit of gritty feeling..when its in the head..and its being held in straight..its like butter....and Thanku very much wes for responding..im sure help requests questions are neverending...so i super apprciate cha my man! tyvm!..im not sure what to look at for a bent gril tho🤔..i know the grips i have on that came in the upgrade kit have never seen a crash...i do have a backup set of the same ones tho...i bought two of the kits so i would have one for backup
@@westhobbiesrc8051 i will make a short vid and email it to ya if thats kewl..?..mayb ur trained eye can spot summin im not seein
Poor 380😢
It’s already rebuilt!
I know what's wrong wit it! Ain't got no gas init!
👍🙂
Thank you!
@@westhobbiesrc8051 Most Welcome!
A successful rc heli pilot still spends more time building, repairing and tuning than flying lol
I'll get the rest after the next crash. Lol. (I'm joking)
Lol it’s always good to see what you should look for.
RC Sim 😂
Simulator is great! But you’re still gonna crash in real life lol