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190cc 5 Speed Yard Kart Killer is almost RACE READY!! Shifter, Panhard Bar, Fuel Tank + More!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 พ.ย. 2021
- The Zongshen 190cc shifter kart is almost race ready! This full suspension yard kart killer should dominate the CarsandCameras Grand Prix, with an 18 horsepower pit bike motor, full diy go kart suspension, and a 5 speed transmission. In today's episode, we build out the gas, brake, and clutch pedals and linkage, the shift linkage, add a rear rack to hold our fuel tank, and install a lanyard bar!
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Hey guys, not to rain on anyone's parade, but those master cylinders for handle bars, aren't going to work too well facing vertical, the holes for the fluid to the plunger inside those are at the bottom mounted horizontally, mounting it in a vertical position, you may have fluid at the moment in the plunger, but it's definitely going to pick up some air out in the real world of bumping around and splashing. Your brake fluid pickups need to be at the lowest point to prevent air cavitation in the cylinder. So a proper horizontal mount master cylinder is going to be required at some point soon otherwise it could get dangerous losing your brakes out on a run! Just some helpful criticism, not knocking y'all. Awesome build otherwise guy's and congrats Charles! It's exciting and scary all at the same time having a kid! Wishing you all the very best guy's.
I noticed that too. The habdle will lose pressure and wont hold up. Plus how can you refill it? 😂
I tried a brake master cylinder vertical like that on my buggy and i couldn’t get it to work , you are correct it has to be horizontal 👍
I've used a car door lock actuator for the shifter on my cart. That is if you have 12 v⚡ 's lock & unlock on 1 button on steering wheel. Just a thought. Great job guys.
From my experience, toe out tends to make it want to wander, because they are working against each other. Toe in I feel like is more for accurate steering and over-steer because when you steer that outside tire grabs and really pulls it around the corner. I might also recommend adjusting your camber for better grip and less stress on components around corners. You want the tires leaning in a little bit
Mount the clutch lever to the shifter handle. Jockey shift style
That's the worst way to mount it.
A foot clutch is far superior. It keeps hands free to hold the wheel during launches and popping clutch mid-rip.
It's bizarre people don't think about the basics.
@@SportbikerNZ it's bizarre that you think this is some crazy race car with big power that you'll need both hands to control. Calm down, baby girl.....
You'll only need the clutch to start, downshift, and come to a stop anyhow.
@@nicholaskennedy8173 Imagine how awkward it is launching while squeezing a clutch on a shifter that want's to bobble around as you bounce over every bump. The lack of noggin use is comical.
@@SportbikerNZ imagine how insecure you must be to insult people in the comment section of a video.....
People have been using jokey shift for years. It's an awesome and practical way to mount a clutch. Come back to the comment section when you've got practical experience and not just speculating.
@@nicholaskennedy8173 Farout. I know some people are allergic to even the mildest of constructive criticism, but this is rich. Poor quality of character is failing to admit being wrong. Telling.
Think a couple of steps ahead next time. To do a simple clutch kick while bouncing all over the place you're forced to faff around. Reaching one hand to a clutch on a lever that's annoyingly doubling as a gear shift which you have to be careful you don't accidentally knock it up or down a gear as you jostle around while steering with one hand... vs the alternative of simply stabbing a clutch with your foot. Let alone the ease and practicality of launching with a foot clutch over hand. Every designer since forever has put the clutch on the floor and it's not hard to think why.
Hand clutches - only recommended by inexperienced people thinking it's trendy.
Congrats Charles!! I appreciate how you guys (John Ike Charles) included his registry, and allow us to "help a brotha out". Kids our the future let's raise them right.
amen bro
The camber on those front wheels are driving me crazy! Lol
You know you had a great childhood when you got the original lawn darts for Birthday or Christmas
On the 16 Polaris Sportsman 570 I had, the front was toed out at full shock extension. Because of the steering geometry and McPherson strut setup, at full compression the wheels were parallel. Toe out causes the wheels to pull away, which is great for quick response. Toe in is great for going straight. Neither is really good on tire wear.
The negative camber actually bothered me more than the tow. I think you want the tire vertical (wheel still a bit positive) on hard cornering, but might be wrong. This may be less important with a rounded knobby, but still I expect you want maximum tire patch under those conditions.
And as for the wear part, have you ever noticed front wheel drive is typically toed out, rear wheel drive front wheels towed in. I expect this is to accommodate the suspension bend under typical steady state drive loading, say for somewhere approaching sustained highway speeds.
Dang That thing is going to be cool
Your Drag Mower came out dope af too man props!
Glad to see you here Kyle! You closet America-nadian
Hurry up and get yours done
The reason it didn’t go into gear is that the gears in the trans didn’t line up. When you have the motor running it allows the gears to mesh together, which is why you were then able to put it into 2nd
manually rotating the crank or countershaft sprocket will allow gear selection.
@@billbry Yes rocking the go kart or rotating the output shaft will do the trick too
Great job guys.....Charles is a outstanding asset to C & C !!!!... treat him right !!
Ike predicted the future when he said the tail fins are dangerous... totally worth it though.
Hey
Fun fact! Yard Darts were banned in 1988.. so how old was ike in 1988? So 33 years ago... so your probably not older than 33
I was a kid when yard darts came out and were banned.. im 55 years old... your not old so I call BS
Can you not use paddle shifters? Having to take your hands off the wheel is soooo 1980's
Hey, Semi-Pro Go-kart racer here. On our karts we run toe out most of the time because it gives the kart a little bit more turn in, on the initial turn. We rarely ever run no toe, and never run toe in. We also run some negative camber due to the way the karts are designed. But generally more negative camber will give the rear of the car more grip in the middle of the corner. Not sure what Positive camber does since we never run it. For caster, we run with a bunch of positive camber. This get the inside rear wheel of the kart to lift easier. Its tuned this way because of solid rear axle., and it allows the kart to turn, and corner, because the kart would push very badly if the the rear stayed planted all the time. And sadly your original 360lb weight goal with rider is very optimistic lol, as we run 355 with rider on our karts with no suspension with a 125cc motor with no gears. Very cool build though!
@@davidjessee7701 Didn't someone get killed as it went through his skull or something? How did they not see that coming? They're like mortars with spikes on them when they come down. My dad said all toys were dangerous back then but people weren't so soft and they survived.
Toe in is good for straight line speed and stability but will increase understeer toe out is good for turn in speed at a cost of straight line stability.
Yes, and toe out does that the same way a modern fighter jet achieves quick direction changes, by being more unstable, to whatever degree you choose. Their choice is an aircraft that literally breaks up in the air at high speed with loss of electronic control intervention, as happened once in an air show with an F117. Also happened with a prototype aircraft in competition that my company, at the time, was providing one of the system's sensor systems (FLIR). The air frame lost, but the sensor got moved to the winning aircraft, even though that was contrary to the competition win format, as it was hands down a vastly superior system.
My father was systems manager on a missile interceptor called SPRINT (same company, different name) way back. They actually designed that missile to be unstable at launch to allow VERY quick pitchover just out of the gas assisted launch tube. It became stable right after that due to propellant burnoff in the first stage.
Everything was designed to get on target as quickly as possible as they had only seconds to intercept a nuclear warhead coming in at about mach 10+. Look it up on YT if you are interested, and yes, first stage is about a second and a half burn so those are either real time or SLOWED down videos. Zero to mach 10 in about five seconds, burned incandescent white in the atmosphere just seconds into flight. Some serious tech for the 60s, and nothing out there remotely like it today, as far as I know. But since I am no longer in the industry, I could be wrong there.
Lots of very knowledgeable people in this comment section...cool to see in a YT, and rare. Wow, that too got off topic. Sorry.
Charles is a great addition to the channel. He could be ikes little brother lol. Great job crew yall are doing great. Congratulations Charles on fatherhood
I would flip those rear shocks also. The rod side should always be down. This way the rod seals stay lubricated internally. Also may give you more clearance. I also 2nd the statement of moving the clutch lever to hand operated.
Hand operated clutch levers are a distant (very distant) second to foot operated in anything not on two wheels.
Not totally true. Lots of shocks come rod side up from the factory.
The internal pressure will always keep the seals lubed no matter the position.
I'd still look out for debris settling on the top of the seal and destroying it.
@@SportbikerNZ Not sure why two wheels is the issue. I would think this application is much more suited to a hand clutch. Now if you had more than 180 degrees steering wheel rotation, where you had to change hand positions in a hard turn, I would definitely agree.
@@MrJdsenior Hand clutch on motorcycles works well because 1. It's not doubling as a gear shift, your foot does that. 2. Your handle bars have very limited range of movement so you maintain both hands on the controls while manipulating the clutch.
Removing a hand from the wheel during launches while bumping around, or trying to do a clutch kick while bumping around, is poor with a hand clutch. A simple clutch kick means wrestling the wheel with one hand while using the other to manipulate the clutch while trying not to bump the shifter up and down a gear while you jostle around.
Bem watching u guys for years u have really inspired me to start building my own things about to get a welder
Yeah I got one and built a two seater cart for my son and I... The welding was way easier than I thought it would be. My best advice is to get a decent metal cutting saw. That was really the hard part because I only had shoddy stuff to do it with.
I feel like something to consider in future builds is a way to make the seat position adjustable for different size riders. You could probably cut some pieces of square bar drill out your adjustable holes and mount it to the gokart then make another bracket that has a single hole on 2 tabs that fit on either side of the square bar to a seat bracket. Mount the seat to the bracket and it makes the seat slide on the rail. You can use cotter pins to fix the seat to any mounting hole position. One awesome build so far. Its been awesome having Charles around helping advance your fabrication and build designs. You all make an awesome team.
I would suggest putting the clutch on a bike lever that on the shifter
Definitely the logical choice. Alot of Motorcycle swapped cars already do that.
I concur. I'd make the shifter a little shorter, too, for shorter throw.
Charles you're an awesome addition to cars and cameras love all you guys keep up the good biking.....JJ...
Buy/build a new welding table. Then you could use it as a frame jig/go-cart lift
Coming along very nicely, Love the tail fins and Charles is doing very well at his fabricating, he has been a great addition to this channel.
Fuel Tank "Shelf" needs some Diagonal Bracing from the Seat Uprights.
That Panhard Bar will rip/tear the Welds without...
Looks AWESOME guys!
Guys, the raw design and development is fantastic and you're a treasure for building, testing and improving
You guys inspire me so much! This build is very cool, if nobody has mentioned it yet the best backyard toe set for anything (25 years alignment specialist) is to jack the tire up and use a marker that you can see and use a block to set the marker on and rotate the tire slowly to make a center mark around the tire (you might need to wrap a couple layers of wide tape around the center, over the lugs). The seam will not be straight on the tread, don't use. Now 2 thin boards or dowels or angle metal, put a pointer on each end, screw threw, nail, etc. Now do your forward and back roll and clamp together the boards with a pointer on each rear line at the axle height, then move to the front at axle height and compare. Zero toe will be on the line, for toe in adjust until lines are inside the pointers to the amount you want, toe out is just the opposite. Do them equally and your steering wheel will be centered also. Thanks to all the ideas I have seen from you I just finished our seventh project; front engine, jackshaft, tractor seat, handlebars, rear exhaust and an early 30's facsimile grill and hood top over the stage one 212. My grandkids think you guys' rock too!! They get to rip them all too!
You guys should look into the line level lasers. I use them at work all the time for plumbing. They’d make your alignments a breeze.
17:55 "Might be ok" does not sound as confident as "It'll Be Fine". 😂
Move lower spring mounts closer to trailing arm pivot for softer ride. This also will give more suspension travel. Toe, - or + is for component stretch from wheel load. Breaking, + toe needed. Driving, - toe needed. Niether load, 0 toe for best handling, rolling resistance and tire wear. Negetive camber gives wider stance for cornering but at the expence of uneven tire wear. Posative camber has same effect on tire contact patch and can help the inside wheel on cornering but also at the expence of uneven tire wear. Caster is the effect of upper & lower spindle mounts in relation to the center of the spindle. Really enjoy watching what you guys do!
Holy cow I didn't realize how early to this video I am. Great content👍🏻
Idk what ide do without u guys man u made me wanma buy thing and fix them
Why not attach tubing the shifter with a clutch handle mounted to it, hand shifter and clutch in one.
I thought the same, would be pretty easy to set the pedals up too.
From what I see in the front view at timestamp 26:01, if you can add spacers to the end of your tie rods to make them parallel to the control arms, you should be able to reduce or eliminate bump steer depending on the rest of the steering and suspension geometry.
It's so good to see Ike back! Love ya, buddy!!
.
Awesome build y’all! Can’t wait to see this rip!
I feel like a panhard rod is still going to be pretty hard on the bearings at the front, especially with the length of your trailing links. It's a bit more complex, but perhaps you should look into a Watts-link setup? It keeps the rear end perfectly centered through the full travel of the suspension, which will be much nicer on the pivot bearings.
Watts is the way to go
I said this in another comment before reading this, and agree. I think they might have to turn the rotating portion sideways, though, on that application, for ground clearance. I don't know that for sure, as I don't know all the suspension parameters, but it was a thought. My RX7 had a watts link in the rear is one of the reasons I am familiar. Always struck me as a better solution, geometrically, than the panhard. Of course, it is a good bit more complex to implement, from scratch.
@@MrJdsenior true the only reason I suggest it is because I had it on my bagged truck and no matter what you did you weren't moving that axle
I 2nd that a home made go-cart lift would be good project
since your running a trailing arm setup and the trailing arms are cross braced, why the panhard bar? the bar is going to load up when the suspension cycles. anyway keep it up, great channel.
Love this build cant wait to see it finished guys 👍
Cars and cameras is so much better with Charles definitely upgraded the show
Twist grip on the shifter makes a good clutch!! SAVE ROOM!!!!!!!!!!
That is a good idea....JJ...
Would be pretty cool if it had a roll cage and it was white, still it's a great successor for the cross kart!
Love the channel I'm so proud of you guys for crossing 1 MILLION subscribers! I've been a fan since day 12 of C&C keep up the awesome work, And great videos!
Wish I had this machine lol I’m in need of help with a mower trying to put a chain drive and a motor in it i lol like y’all did with y’all’s but can’t figure it out y’all have amazing skill with this stuff I’m 13 so have to do it my self lol
Hehe layne
I've been watching you guys off and on for years, and I really can't tell if your getting any better at building or not, but it's interesting.
I been watching your thumbnail on and off for 10 seconds now and I can’t tell if your getting better at paint schemes or not but it’s ugly and not very interesting.
@@jimmylarge1148 I can't say much about there painting, I'v never seen them paint
This thing should be a blast! I still want to see the 100hp 2 stroke cart take a rip as well.
There are three things to keep in mind when it comes to suspension. Bound, rebound, and ride height. In this application, adjusting ride height also preloads the rear spring resulting in a softer ride. The bottom collars should adjust the amount of preload on the shocks.
Or harder, depending on which direction you adjust it.
This Old Man watched the video yesterday and didn't have time to complete. Like all your videos I love them. Going to one fast cart. Looking forward to seeing y'all having fun with it. 🛵🧔💝💝💝
alot of motorcycles are like that also with the gear selection. when not running it will only do 1st or neautral, engine has to be turning to get the dog bones to engage the next gear, there syncronized transmissions.
also, stand the shock straight up and put the lower end closer to the seat for better springage. it would kinda follow the tube of the seat bucket down at that angle.
Love the build!! But you need a 37-40 rear sprocket ⚙️ your is way to small for that engine and those rear tires. I had 22” tiers and a 12 front sprocket and a 37 rear sprocket. Little bit to high for a 140. Probably perfect for your engine.
They did the gearing from the engine to the jackshaft from the jackshaft to the rear end it's 1:1 so a small gear coming from the transmission shaft to a larger gear on the jackshaft and then 1:1 from the Jack shaft to the rear end
Think of the rear swing arm as leverage so the more swing arm behind the lower mounts the softer the shocks will be then adjust the top to get ur damper just right
Building a few shifter cart things when I was younger I would mount a Motorcycle clutch lever on the shifter handle which worked good. Had a cart with a CB360 engine and used the handle bars with all the controls for a steering wheel, had the throttle, tach and clutch on it, the gas pedal became the brake and the brake pedal became the shifter, it was a blast to ride but the front end seemed to get lighter the faster you went which was a little scary at 60mph lol.
Can't wait to see it ripping definitely a awesome build 👏
I believe that moving the lower rear shock mounts away from the axle/towards the front of the cart and moving the upper shock mount higher/rearward will give you more travel and make the rear suspension softer.
Clutch and brake on the left foot?? that will be interesting when trying to stop in a panic
Awesome name, love it! Little doubt that it will own the track time for quite some time! Can't wait to see that Tillotson yard cart too!
Hurry up guys I'm excited to see that dart fly
love this build its really cool, cant wait to see it rip. but, and i dont like to be picky, but having a panhard on a rigid rear like that is not how its supposed to be, it may work, depending on how flexible the rear carriage is, but it will cause stress in ways that arent good. to try and see if this is the case, you can remove the shocks and test moving it up and down, if it moves freely without a problem then its fine. but chances are it might be a problem.
I always go for near zero toe. Which usually means dialing a slight of static toe in. I do this because the resistance of the wheels and such tend to take the slack in bushing, bearing and such out leaving the car straight up when moving straight. After that you play with a tiny bit of in or out to assist in turn in. It does have an impact on the ackerman, out tends to increase, in tends to decrease.
Guys you crack me up. Charles congrats.
You need to brace the rack down to the base of the seat, especially as you have used it to mount one end of the Panhard bar. Also, I'm not sure that front brake master cylinder will work in the upright position - you'll need to rethink that when you reposition to the proper side. Apart from that, it's great :-)
Toe in increases understeer but adds stability, toe out increases turn in and is less stable in a front line, zero toe is actually still pretty aggressive for a street application but is still a good middle for perfomance applications. Negative camber drastically increases cornering grip but slightly reduces straight line braking grip. On an off road application, a few degrees of front negative Camber is ideal
This crazy little x-cart is going to beak the internet! Let's go!
Pfft, no it's not
I need to get you guys a digital level for Christmas 😂
Chamber link would do good. You have serious toe out at the top of the tire
Great video so far!!!!
Good God....Charles is the perfect addition to the entertainment.
The toe only has one thing to do with the alignment, steering! That's to get the steering wheel dead straight & the wheels dead straight so it drives perfectly straight with out pulling to the left or right. Camber & caster adjustments Are more for race applications & to make sure your tires wear correctly. On race cars they'll set a neg camber so while your car is in a hard corner the the wheel will push out & get as much of the tires surface on the pavement for traction! Caster is rarely messed with unless you have custom control arms that move the wheel forward or backward a few MM. This is for special applications. 98% of cars have no caster adjustments! Lastly you might see drag cars with a little positive camber so when it wheelies it has that little extra bit when it lands. I did alignments for a very long time in one of the biggest collision centers in the U.S...👍🏻🏁
My son Patrick is abscessed with cars and cameras he’s 3 he knows all there names his birthday coming up end of Jan be so cool could say happy birthday to him be a dream! Makes us watch ever video and rewatch it lol !!
Since the transmission is sequential shouldn't the clutch only be needed to start from a dead stop? Once in motion you should be able to shift merely by letting up on the throttle.
No since its not actually sequential but they made it look like it but with a clutch like on a bike but took the shifter and made it to a stick
I dont think either of you understand transmissions
because these chinese gear selectors *-hate-* clutchless shifting. i messed one of my 1n234 135fma engines doing that. bike was already a pain to get in neutral, now that engine would just try to drop in second when idling. with a very scary rattle to boot.
i guess it would've eventually been able to do so if i didnt blow the head gasket and put it on a shelf.
A sequential transmission is the motion of just going up or down to change gears. You still need to depress the clutch to change gears like a regular manual transmission.
The zs190 is notorious for transmission issues. Clutchless shifts are know for causing it to fail/lockup. If it was a different platform you’d be right though.
on the dirt stock roundy rounder we set the toe to zero then toed the left about 10° with a negative camber and the right with a positive camber but we also ran different size tires on each side. More or less stock 14" on the left and a 15" with a 20"wide hoosier on the front right, the rears were also different size hoosier ballons.. it went left EASY
John, find some RC car related tuning adjustments they should be pretty informative and easy to understand. Things like camber, caster, toe and kick angle should really help the handling of anything you build. 👍🏻
True. They could actually get a fancy R/C car or truck that has the ability to align it and they could practice different alignment setups on that just to make it easier when working on karts
I’m actually really diggin this build 👍🏼
nice work guys. She is nearly ready to dart around the yard.
i am building something similar to this and weight has been my biggest concern. i had it welded up in the front with single A arms, like yours. i was having trouble finding measurements online and looked over at my R/C truck. it uses a single A arm with a tie rod above where you would normally put the upper A arm to keep the front tires aligned. Definitely saves weight but you get the same outcome as if you had upper A arms
Should have put the clutch as the lever and mount it on the shifter stick. Love it
For your brake .. when I had a Murray go-kart I cut a 3 wheeler handle bar in half and welded it on the steering hoop so I just mounted the handle to that and used my hand instead of my foot
A Panhard bar will bind up your rigid rear suspension. What you need is a Watts link.
Charles is perfect, guys!
Just thought u ever think of hanging the pedal from top of a bar maybe not this one but other seen u do and u need to invest in some thiner wall tube for when u need less structure area help save weight and probably save some money.keep up great work and everyone have wonderful day
hey guys you are all cool! See your vids is like havin a good time with old friends... thats, how should i say.... thats really cool because not any youtube channel can bring this feeling to the fans. dudes you made my day
If yall dont come out with a "i hit trees" shirt or sticker or somethin ima be sad 🤣😂 thats pure gold!! Charles is my spirit animal love that dude sucha good addition to the team!!🤣😂🤦🏾♂️🤦🏾♂️ And congrats on the baby man!!! Just had a chance to catch up on the last three vids!!! Better see some burnouts in the c10 to celebrate the birth!!! I just had to sell my bagged 66c10 to fund my new project
I was wondering how you was gonna use clutch and brake. Good call Ike. Love the build guys!
“I hit trees” is perfect mercy material
Love your channel!!!
If you have a problem finding 2ed from nutral. All you have to do is rock the weels to mesh the gears
"Have you ever played with yard darts?" HA! Loos cool guys!
Oh, this thing is going to be awesome!!! Let’s go boys!
You'd get better alignment making a bolt on laser pointer holder to bolt on to the front wheels. The farther from the wheels you make your measurements the better the accuracy will be. With the pointers you can put the kart with back wheels against the wall and make your measurements on the opposite wall. Then simply reverse the kart with the pointers the same distance from the wall and measure again. With the plasma cutter you also make an adapter to fit cars and trucks so when you do the rebuild of the Kaddy you can align that. Also Harbor Freight has a magnetic level for a couple bucks!
My cbr clutch does the exact same thing sometimes I can't cycle gears without starting it up first ,I think it helps when the clutch plates start moving and the gear teeth line up
Ok so you gotta shirt that! “I hit trees “ 🏎
Idk why but when Charles explained his old yard cart , my head went with the tempo of the hocky pocky You got one toe in and one toe out , so you raise your middle finger and wave it all about. you mash the pedal down and the tires give a shout , and that's what it's all about. you got one toe in and one toe out so ya raise your middle finger and ya wave it all about .... LOL ✌😎👍
I made one of these yard carts when I was around 15. I ended up using handlebar steering so I could use hand clutch and thumb throttle? Made it way easier in the end
I agree a zero toe is best on a go cart, and will be less tread wear...
You need the brake on the right so you can press the brake and clutch at same time
Damn that's a bad ass Go Cart!! 👍👍❤❤ you guys really did an amazing build !😎❤❤👍👍👍
“Inevitable bump steer” 😂😂
I put my clutch handle on my shift lever works great without issues
"Denial and error" Man, Charles, that's awesome. I might have to borrow that sometime. 😂
"I turned around for five minutes and that list went from two things to seventeen"
If you are talking about the kart honeydos, at least one of them is kind of necessary. It WOULD be nice to be able to sit in gear, clutch down. He's kinda right there, if I understood the problem correctly, and I'm not sure I still do. Something about pedal placement? As I said, I'm still am not sure I understand what he was saying. I guess I should go watch that part again. I know I'm not looking forward to seeing this thing run 1/10th as much as you guys are, nor will it be 1/1000th as fun for me as you, but I AM looking forward to seeing that little jewel in action.
I've been intending to build a streetable reverse trike forever (it seems, at least a decade, anyway) and have not started it other than obtaining a GXSR 750 motor and RR600 motor, both from a ways back, and some suspension and wheel/tires parts. I am thinking now of doing the GSXR and ELECTRIC for the secondary power, to be used separately and together when 'insane' mode is NEEDED (LOL).
You have almost inspired me to get started on the thing. I don't know why typical frame designers are so reticent to triangulate frames, but I am NOT, and I'm glad to see you aren't either. Having built a LongEZ aircraft, I was intending to gen up a nice fiberglass body for the thing too. But just getting a working chassis would be a big step. I probably need to think of it in the "one bite at a time" elephant eating free for all, and jump in, I guess,as it would be significantly more extensive than this job here. I also need to go reread all the books I obtained on suspension design, etc. and get some reverse trike specific 'instructions', or rules of thumb layout and suspension design. Love this channel, keep it up, I know (hope, anyway) you will get me there on the inspiration, and I should vlog the build for some possible actual YT traffic. I was also thinking about designing some electronic shift controls, maybe some traction control and yaw assist, etc ... ultimately. Handling two trannys at the rates I think this thing would go through gears, other than simultaneous shifts with paddles and air shifters, which would be OK to start, but not a good long term solution, is kind of over the top pilot overload. That automatic shift control part should be cake, anyway. Pool table first, some house honey do's and then a TRIKE, hopefully. I've often wondered why some supercar manufacturer, or even Toyota, etc. didn't make an automatic tranny utilizing a standard, or sequential box controlled electronically, maybe even with a torque converter up front, but at a minimum with automatic clutching. It seems like some control would be easy with RPM, accelerometer, throttle, gear position, and clutch position (the last two would be control/feedback inputs, obviously), and some smarts to figure the current driving intent based on gear and throttle positions (smooth normal mode, and 'hair raising get the hell on down the road' mode.
When I play with my Toes, I always start with the "This little Piggy..." method.
4:00 i hit trees... a few times LOL