I fixed the blown out mounting holes in my 12" subwoofer by using liquid nails to attach wood blocks behind all 8 mounting holes since the original wood screws were long enough. Gotta love structural integrity of particle board with a routed out inset for the speaker basket...
Awesome vid. Keep the vids coming man. Ok....this is going to sound crazy but it works to save pushed in tweeters. I save abused speakers regularly. I pay very little for them. I remove the diaphram completely....while out I replace the ferro fluid .....just because it takes 2 mins and 7 dollars. I developed the technique after watching Dentless Paint repairs. I push out the dented tweeter gently. There will always be a small dent or two after the inital push. I massage the smaller dents out from the inside by using a golf tee. The fake syntetic ones...not real wood. They are soft. Small circles around the perimeter of the dent. Getting smaller and smaller circles. You need to simultaneously release the stress of the dent edge by tapping the outer surface gently- it works. I use a back end of a small electronics screw driver to tap the edge of the dent with back pressure from a finger tip inserted in the diaphragm. When Im done you would never know it was ever pushed in. Give it a try on a junk driver. It works.
Glad the tape worked well to undent the tweeter. The tweeter dome dent made me think of the latest auto-body dent pulling fad, using "hot melt glue" between a puller and the dented surface. Putting some on a small nail head and giving gentle pulls might work well on a metallic dome like that, then the glue can be quickly and easily released with alcohol.
I have used some leftover convertible top black reconditioner to redarken the speaker cones that were very faded before. It works a lot like shoe polish but it dries completely without changing the structure of the cone much if any. It looks really good IMO. Congrat on tbe success.
Use a band-aid for tweeter dent removal!! Better adhesive, way more flexible to fit into smaller dents, use a q-tip to gently press into dents, less likely to damage the dome if it is deeply dented/creased! Those enclosures are made from particle board, NOT MDF! Just use some quality wood filler to repair damaged t-nut holes. Always use a hollow-ground #2 Phillips screwdriver/bit so that no pressure is required to remove/replace the machine screws.
Those 033 tweeters r easy to repair. Remove the front plate screws & plate carefully. remove the diaphram & push dome out gently from behind with finger. The diaphram & plate self align upon reassembly
I noticed original outerrim was on the upper side of the cone. the new one you laid beneath the cone. I tought original position should be used while refoaming old woofer.
I'll use my signal generator and run a medium frequency as I'm gluing the to the frame. It keeps the voice coil centered. You don't have use that procedure all the time. Depends on the speaker.
First, again lol, great video fella, use MILLIPUT to fill in then after 24hours re-drill a new hole, damn there are some muppets around lol. who the hell damages a cabinet like this because they dont have the right screwdriver, what i do with soft dome tweeters is fit a small piece of foam behind the tweeter dome, it stops it from being pushed in in the future and tightens up the frequency response
Good info on the milliput. I'll have to try some of that next time. I have to imagine that the owner tried to refoam them last time and chooched the threads.
I usually drill the hole larger...wood glue in a dowel and sand it down. Retap. Or...JB weld make wood epoxy that sets up in minutes and can be sanded and shaped or drilled in no time at all really.
Hey there! Just picked up a similar style 1960’s magnavox record player you showcased for $100. Cool channel you got here. Ill have to dive deeper into your videos soon
Would there be a performance impact from foaming on the front instead of the back? I might have just done it from the front again due to the cosmetic issues caused by the previous refoam.
The cone break up modes might be different. It won't be a night and day difference. Generally the characteristics of the speaker _will_ change if the foam isn't an exact copy of the original, which it mostly isn't anyways.
Yes! The voice coil travel (x-max) is calculated by the engineers to work when foam suspension is mounted to back of cone. Dont screw up a fine speaker by being lazy!
If you have a Dremmel tool you could cut off the head of the screw, pull out the driver and then deal with the nut later. Instead of ruining the mounting point. Just a thought.
I'm pretty sure the mounting point was trash before I got to it. There was evidence it was attempted to be glued to the wood - probably after it was cross threaded and not tightening down. The threads on both the screw and the socket were badly Marred like it had been cross threaded and run in with a high speed tool. The next time it was to be removed would have ripped the socket from the MDF guaranteed.
What did you do omg 😲 😳 no no no no no no no no I like your videos and I am a subscriber if I did that to a woofer I couldn't sleep at night , alcohol is your best friend and acetone you did not complete that job properly I leave zero residue so no future defect can happen you get that clean before anything.
Always someone who complains huh. It worked, they're not super high end, he is apparently happy enough with them so what does it matter. Advice is nice, complaints not so much.
@@wolvenar you don't know bud 1965s music grandpa get that bass pumping you will know what's up cone surround separation on surround has he put 50 hz for 3 hrs and checked for separation because I test 10 hz to 150 for 12 hrs for coil buzz and linearity do the same and even then without removing the dust cap and shiming the voice coil running rms wattage is hit and miss I suggest you ty it before you open your mouth he did a good job unt I ll he didn't clean properly
Great speaker, JBLs vintage speakers are amazing
Jordan pier you are good at restoring vintage radios and alignment of vintage radios and vintage TVS 📺 and vintage streos receivers 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
I fixed the blown out mounting holes in my 12" subwoofer by using liquid nails to attach wood blocks behind all 8 mounting holes since the original wood screws were long enough. Gotta love structural integrity of particle board with a routed out inset for the speaker basket...
Awesome vid. Keep the vids coming man. Ok....this is going to sound crazy but it works to save pushed in tweeters. I save abused speakers regularly. I pay very little for them. I remove the diaphram completely....while out I replace the ferro fluid .....just because it takes 2 mins and 7 dollars. I developed the technique after watching Dentless Paint repairs. I push out the dented tweeter gently. There will always be a small dent or two after the inital push. I massage the smaller dents out from the inside by using a golf tee. The fake syntetic ones...not real wood. They are soft. Small circles around the perimeter of the dent. Getting smaller and smaller circles. You need to simultaneously release the stress of the dent edge by tapping the outer surface gently- it works. I use a back end of a small electronics screw driver to tap the edge of the dent with back pressure from a finger tip inserted in the diaphragm.
When Im done you would never know it was ever pushed in. Give it a try on a junk driver. It works.
Thank you for not adding music in your videos
Glad the tape worked well to undent the tweeter. The tweeter dome dent made me think of the latest auto-body dent pulling fad, using "hot melt glue" between a puller and the dented surface. Putting some on a small nail head and giving gentle pulls might work well on a metallic dome like that, then the glue can be quickly and easily released with alcohol.
Jordan pier your utube videos are awesome my friend 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
it was even helpful to any speakers for me since you showcased important stuff very well. I have some 5"25 speakers to work on :D
I have used some leftover convertible top black reconditioner to redarken the speaker cones that were very faded before. It works a lot like shoe polish but it dries completely without changing the structure of the cone much if any. It looks really good IMO. Congrat on tbe success.
Great Job Jordan!, I always liked the Cloth treated Surrounds Magnavox used on there Woofers, They never go bad!
Great job on these, I really learned at lot.
Use a band-aid for tweeter dent removal!! Better adhesive, way more flexible to fit into smaller dents, use a q-tip to gently press into dents, less likely to damage the dome if it is deeply dented/creased! Those enclosures are made from particle board, NOT MDF! Just use some quality wood filler to repair damaged t-nut holes. Always use a hollow-ground #2 Phillips screwdriver/bit so that no pressure is required to remove/replace the machine screws.
I had to refoam a set of JBL's similar to those but in the 15" woofer variety. A heavy pain in the ass and a MUST to have laid over on the back.
Nice to see the technique
That Goofoff Works great For Taking
That Speaker Glue Off You'r Hands.
That's Why I Keep Papertowels & Goofoff
Handy.
Those 033 tweeters r easy to repair. Remove the front plate screws & plate carefully. remove the diaphram & push dome out gently from behind with finger. The diaphram & plate self align upon reassembly
That worked well on the dome!
Mate hilarious line at 08:25 , gonna start using that! 😂😂
I noticed original outerrim was on the upper side of the cone. the new one you laid beneath the cone. I tought original position should be used while refoaming old woofer.
I'll use my signal generator and run a medium frequency as I'm gluing the to the frame. It keeps the voice coil centered. You don't have use that procedure all the time. Depends on the speaker.
Run signal generator at rated resonant frequency, and low power! Will keep cone centered as adhesive cures.
First, again lol, great video fella, use MILLIPUT to fill in then after 24hours re-drill a new hole, damn there are some muppets around lol. who the hell damages a cabinet like this because they dont have the right screwdriver, what i do with soft dome tweeters is fit a small piece of foam behind the tweeter dome, it stops it from being pushed in in the future and tightens up the frequency response
Good info on the milliput. I'll have to try some of that next time.
I have to imagine that the owner tried to refoam them last time and chooched the threads.
@@JordanPier Milliput is brilliant stuff, it sets as hard as aluminium, you can get it in 8 different colours too
I usually drill the hole larger...wood glue in a dowel and sand it down. Retap. Or...JB weld make wood epoxy that sets up in minutes and can be sanded and shaped or drilled in no time at all really.
Pour remettre en forme le dôme du tweeter, j'utilise l'aspirateur ! Ça marche aussi pour les cache-noyaux enfoncés 😉
Jordan pier iam going to san Diego CALIFORNIA in October 2023 19-23 for five days with my cousin and his wife we are flying there 😊😊😊
Jordan pier the owner vintage set vintage Jbl l-40 loudspeakers are awesome 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
Jordan pier my hobbies are painting pictures 🖼 and listening to shortwave and ssb iam thinking about getting my ham license 🎉🎉🎉😊
Do you think a Dremel tool with a wire tip would do a good job of removing the residue from the frame?
Hey there! Just picked up a similar style 1960’s magnavox record player you showcased for $100. Cool channel you got here. Ill have to dive deeper into your videos soon
Going to be a follow up video on the Fisher? Thanks.
Yep!
Did not know this was possible
Smashing repair jordan , a nice pair of speakers saved :-D
Shame the pillock forced screws in and generally made a mess. :-(
Satria Speaker just spit in their jockeys watchin this lol
Bug bomb damage. Bug bombs destroy foam surrounds. Dremel tool?
Would there be a performance impact from foaming on the front instead of the back? I might have just done it from the front again due to the cosmetic issues caused by the previous refoam.
The cone break up modes might be different. It won't be a night and day difference. Generally the characteristics of the speaker _will_ change if the foam isn't an exact copy of the original, which it mostly isn't anyways.
Yes! The voice coil travel (x-max) is calculated by the engineers to work when foam suspension is mounted to back of cone. Dont screw up a fine speaker by being lazy!
He should take the tweeter out and remove the diaphragm from the magnet an push out the dent from inside the tweeter
I Never Reconed Spealers Cause The Bad Speakers That I Had Wh'er Blown
So I Just Got A Newones.
I can make a machine that you clamp the speakers in and hit a button and it will spin to cut just the glue off
If you have a Dremmel tool you could cut off the head of the screw, pull out the driver and then deal with the nut later. Instead of ruining the mounting point. Just a thought.
I'm pretty sure the mounting point was trash before I got to it. There was evidence it was attempted to be glued to the wood - probably after it was cross threaded and not tightening down.
The threads on both the screw and the socket were badly Marred like it had been cross threaded and run in with a high speed tool. The next time it was to be removed would have ripped the socket from the MDF guaranteed.
Bad idea!! Machine screw is steel!! Filings WILL find their way into voice coil gap … then you can throw the basket into the trash!.,
You should NOT be using woodscrews into particle board to mount a large woofer. This thing is going to vibrate right on out.
Not when you add a dab of sealant to the hole for the threads to grab. Not to mention the baffle is well braced. Nothing vibrating here anytime soon.
Who Ever Put That Screw In Must've
Not Used The Right Type Of Screw.
Instead of re-installing the beauty bead, why not use a paper plate as a mask and spray the front edge with flat black?
Will look dumb!
What did you do omg 😲 😳 no no no no no no no no I like your videos and I am a subscriber if I did that to a woofer I couldn't sleep at night , alcohol is your best friend and acetone you did not complete that job properly I leave zero residue so no future defect can happen you get that clean before anything.
Always someone who complains huh. It worked, they're not super high end, he is apparently happy enough with them so what does it matter. Advice is nice, complaints not so much.
@@wolvenar you don't know bud 1965s music grandpa get that bass pumping you will know what's up cone surround separation on surround has he put 50 hz for 3 hrs and checked for separation because I test 10 hz to 150 for 12 hrs for coil buzz and linearity do the same and even then without removing the dust cap and shiming the voice coil running rms wattage is hit and miss I suggest you ty it before you open your mouth he did a good job unt I ll he didn't clean properly
@@Tron1731
I have "done it " a lot..
It's to bad YT hates links so much.
lifting out the screw shouldnt be a hassle even if they slighty strip .. if wont affect the speaker ..
ok after watching the whole video , do not mind what i said .. but usually screws wont slip like that ;/
I can make a machine that you clamp the speakers in and hit a button and it will spin to cut just the glue off