G'Day from Western Australia! Kudos for having a try and not giving up on it. Diesels are not common in anything, that a normal person drives! As others have stated, Diesel fuel goes "off" and grows gunky. Never let it sit over time. Always use a great fuel preservative. I believe Caterpillars use (used?) a pre-combustion chamber which means it uses (used?) Glow plugs. (I could be wrong!) Glow plugs suck amperage, so good batteries are really important. a non return valve in your fuel system is a great idea. Pop some injector cleaner in your fuel too. A good brand. A dirty injector will cause you lots of dramas you don't need. P.S. 40 years ago I did a Diesel Mechanic apprenticeship and we had Cat Engines in a few Railway Shunting locos. We had about 30 different types of engines and it was 40 years ago, hence my uncertainty about the pre-combustion chambers.
Thanks for watching! And thanks for the great advice. I just got some biocide for the fuel still in the tank to kill off any algae. I’ll have to look up injector cleaner.
Glad you were able to solve your problem. Remember to run the engine every few weeks to make sure the fuel doesn't sit and deteriorate and gung up your filters. Also remember that a diesel engine is less forgiving than a gas engine and requires proper maintenance to remain healthy.
Thanks! Yes, will do. Any other tips for good diesel engine health? Should I run out the rest of the fuel that's in the tank or fill it up all the way to mix in the old stuff with the new stuff.
@@FrugalRepair If there isn't much in the tank I'd flush it and fill it with new stuff. If it's got a lot in the tank then give a full fill after treating what's left in the tank. I'm not sure what it's called but there's a diesel fuel treatment you can add to remove moisture from the diesel mix if that's one of your problems.
Cracking the fuel lines up near the injectors will let you pump all the air out of the line. Anytime you introduce air into the fuel system you need to bleed it. Air is compressible diesel is not. When you compress all the air up to the injectors it will take a long time for that air to get through the injectors and the fuel to reach the combustion chamber. Cracking the bolts loose at each injector will allow you to easily force the air out of the system. Cranking the engine over with them cracked does the same thing. But with this being a rear engine a remote start switch would be helpful so you don't flood the compartment with diesel and you can keep an eye on when the fuel reaches the injectors.
@@FrugalRepair I have diesel tractor(s) and have a time or two ran them out of diesel., Dumb. You have to push all the air out like @kencramer1697 stated, the process he gave is the best way to do it. Yes it is a bit dirty but really not any severe down side for a guy with your talent.
05:55 On some rigs, above the entry are a pair of switches. In 'OFF', each disconnects either the house or start bank. This should reduce parasitic draws.
Had a Mercedes diesel with similar problem, put a non return valve behind the front filter, will stop any fuel returning back to the tank. Avoids all that priming change the air filter.
Biological's form in diesel when it sits for long periods of time, you have to put additive into the diesel when it sits. When you change fuel filters take some diesel and fill up the filter with diesel and then install it.
Thanks! How long is a 'long time' usually? Like a few months? If I put the additive in now, should I change both fuel filters again soon after? Or can I see how it goes and not worry if I don't have any issues?
@@FrugalRepair if it's sitting longer than 6 months with the same fuel you need to run some anti biological in it. If you are going to be taking a road trip soon i would change the filters also adding half a quart of ATF or a small bottle of 2 stroke oil to the fuel every tank will keep your injectors lubed since we have to run low sulfur diesel. Don't do that on a newer diesel with DPF though! Not trying to be negative but those Cat engines are expensive to work on and they don't have anywhere near as long a service life as a Cummins.
@@williamzoom Thanks. Do you mean change the fuel filters again? (I had changed them in this video) I just added biocide to the tank and a few gallons of diesel.
@@FrugalRepair Fuel filters are cheap injectors and injection pumps are very expensive so I would run it for an hour and replace them again if you are planning on taking it for a trip. If it's just sitting I would not bother right now. The only thing that sucks worse than working on one of them on the side of the road is paying 2k dollars for a tow because roadside assistance cannot handle a vehicle of that size!
I think you saw how excited I was in the video. It was such a relief to hear that engine purring. The RV took us all around the country without any engine trouble. Thanks for watching!
Same motor, my wait to start light only comes on the very first time of the season, then I never see it stay on again until next year. It chokes black smoke every time I try to start it, but if I turn the block heater on it starts smoothly every time.
@@FrugalRepair Thank you. I really hope it does. My dad introduced me to the RV lifestyle back in the 80's, and I love it. Plus, I love to tinker. So, this is right up my alley. lol
just found your channel when I looked up solar panels diy. it's still way past something I can do or my husband. we are moving when the economy/housing market gets a bit better.. but def going to invest in solar bc electric bills are outrageous. right now we live in a town in Delaware that purchases electric from the main electric Co and RESELLS it to us at a higher price..we pay more for our electric than my MIL who owns a 4 story townhouse does & we have a small 2 bd home. just shows you how much MORE we pay due to the upcharge. I love seeing RVS restored! I've been watching a channel where thus couple bought land. yet they only have TH-cam as their $$. they bought the land & should have bought a camper ! you can't live in the woods forever..anyways I subbed. glad u got it started!!
Thanks. I’ve read up on it more and you might be right that the check valve could have been part of issue. The check valve (if I’m understanding correctly) is on the return line at the back of the engine (where unspent fuel returns to the tank). Would it be plausible that if it did have dirt in it causing it to be open, that now the engine is running fine that it might have cleared it out?
@@FrugalRepair given the age it could just be a degraded check valve. I would consider it cheap insurance to not have this happen again on the road. I don't know where yours specifically is located. But regardless of location I would change it.
Thank you! I know a little about electronics/computers but engines are new to me. If you want to check out the equipment I use I have it all listed on my amazon shop page. In this video I used the sennheiser G4 lav, deity D3 shotgun mic, and just the phone's camera/mic (when it sounded the worst).
Don't forget to loosen the air bleeder when you pump fuel into the new filter so it will fill till it runs out the bleeder you loosened, the tighten down bleeder.
@@FrugalRepair On the filter block it should be above the filter, check the first one and fill it then check the secondary filter and see if it also has a bleeder and of so do they same process. Do you have a pump lever on the fuel pump or a squeeze pump in line?
@@FrugalRepair If it's on the fuel pump, you may have to cycle the engine to move the cam lobe that operates the fuel pump so you can pump it manually.
Are the house-batteries and the powertrain-batteries the same batteries? If they are, you might want to look at battery isolation that would allow you to split duties off so that any power draw in the house portion doesn't drain the powertrain portion, but where both can be charged when the engine runs.
They are separated from each other normally. (Two for engine and two for house) When starting you can press a button on the dash that connects them if the engine batteries need help getting the engine started.
Good thought. But I’m a little hesitant to open it up at the injector, maybe it’s easier than I think. If I have to do this again I might just connect a vacuum on the fuel line as close to the second filter as I can.
Get some killz and put it in your fuel tank moisture has algae growing in it common problems when something sits. also use some seafoam and Howes. Need to get some new fuel ran through it, not a good sign. Have a couple filters handy as well, you'll need to replace them quicker then normal just some friendly advice.
Thanks. After this I put some biocide in the tank. The clear bowl at the water separator looks clean to me after driving it around a bit. How would I know when to change the fuel filters quicker than normal? Is there a mileage range you would go by?
@@FrugalRepair normal oil change on a diesel is 10k I do all my filters on my semi , which is just a bigger version, I would say 5k swap fuel. For like two cycles then every oil change. But if you're not using it that much . I would say probably two - three months. Change em , that stuff is super bad for the injection system , killz is a good product you'll have to research where to buy it. But just keep after the fuel treatment have a great night
Clogged fuel filters for sure, should have prefilled both filters. Clogged fuel filters cause a weak lift pump, replacing the lift pump will be in your future.
2am Sunday morning. I won't discount all the advice everyone gave on old diesel fuel and check valves. 43 years ago I found myself on the shoulder of the road. my 1st year driving a 18 wheeler. it had a Caterpillar diesel. the engine was starving for fuel. the Caterpillar dealer in Riverside, California later found a rubber gasket that was installed backwards and allowed air to enter the pressurized fuel INJECTION system. several times I had to loosen the fuel lines at each injector, pump the fuel until it got to the injector...you'll see air bubbles in the fuel itself. when the fuel is clear of air bubbles, tighten each line at the injector. your pressurized system is ready for take off. Caterpillar motors are great. Detroit's too. Cummins I drove was a 335
1968 Kenworth log truck with a 335 Cummins motor. what I liked was the spin on fuel filter was mounted waist high on the frame rail. no bending or getting dirty. it's best to fill the fuel filter first, then install. with a 335 Cummins motor you can actually install a empty filter right out of the box. the air inside the empty fuel filter won't affect a Cummins pressurized fuel system. don't try that with Detroit or Caterpillar...I repeat, Don't try that with a Detroit or Caterpillar
Mine wont turn on with ignition key but dash lights work I go to the back after turning key to on and push up on fuel stop and I put a push button to start fom back once stop is up the fuel stop, I push button and she starts every time, some times fuel stop won't stay up after pushing it so I have to hold it up and start and it works every time also. I don't know why but it does
A little tip. If possibly if you can take a line off near that little hand pump you can tape a shop vac to it and vacuum the fuel to that area. May save some time!
Thank you for such an informative video, I wish your family & yourself many years of happiness & wonderful memories in this beautiful "Home 🏡 on wheels" Much Love Worldwide ♥️ 🌎. Blessed Be. 🙏🏽🤍🕊💫. Xx
And the reason why it says wait to start is cause older diesel, vehicles or any diesel vehicle needs time for the glow plugs to warm up so that the fuel will ignite
Those filters were a mess. Looks like mold. It happens when diesel sits for awhile inside a metal tank. There is a product that can takes care of the mold in the tank.
I am glad you make running the Engine I am try to buy one like yours because I want travel all the way to Texas I am living close to New Hampshire and Massachusetts and I am planning but one caravan home to working and Texas and move all my staff there
Please LIKE the video (that is, if you liked it). Make sure to hit the bell icon for “all notifications” on future videos. Thank you all so much!
Done ✔️ Done ✔️ and Done ✔️ 👌
Great video! Enjoyed watching you try to figure this out. Nice work
Thanks for watching! Yeah, it was definitely a learning curve but I’m glad I know a lot more about this engine now.
G'Day from Western Australia! Kudos for having a try and not giving up on it. Diesels are not common in anything, that a normal person drives! As others have stated, Diesel fuel goes "off" and grows gunky. Never let it sit over time. Always use a great fuel preservative. I believe Caterpillars use (used?) a pre-combustion chamber which means it uses (used?) Glow plugs. (I could be wrong!) Glow plugs suck amperage, so good batteries are really important. a non return valve in your fuel system is a great idea. Pop some injector cleaner in your fuel too. A good brand. A dirty injector will cause you lots of dramas you don't need. P.S. 40 years ago I did a Diesel Mechanic apprenticeship and we had Cat Engines in a few Railway Shunting locos. We had about 30 different types of engines and it was 40 years ago, hence my uncertainty about the pre-combustion chambers.
Thanks for watching! And thanks for the great advice. I just got some biocide for the fuel still in the tank to kill off any algae. I’ll have to look up injector cleaner.
@@FrugalRepair
After filling the fuel tank, I add a quart/liter(litre) of cooking oil for lubricity.
I believe you but I'd be nervous to put cooking oil in my tank (mainly because I don't know much about taking care of diesel engines).
This is really well made… I want to watch more like this
Thanks! What aspects would you like to see more of? RV stuff or just fixing anything in general? Or something else?
Glad you were able to solve your problem. Remember to run the engine every few weeks to make sure the fuel doesn't sit and deteriorate and gung up your filters. Also remember that a diesel engine is less forgiving than a gas engine and requires proper maintenance to remain healthy.
Thanks! Yes, will do. Any other tips for good diesel engine health? Should I run out the rest of the fuel that's in the tank or fill it up all the way to mix in the old stuff with the new stuff.
@@FrugalRepair If there isn't much in the tank I'd flush it and fill it with new stuff. If it's got a lot in the tank then give a full fill after treating what's left in the tank. I'm not sure what it's called but there's a diesel fuel treatment you can add to remove moisture from the diesel mix if that's one of your problems.
Thanks. There's like 1/8 tank. I'd hate to dump it (with diesel prices, haha) but I'd rather keep the engine/etc healthy. Any thoughts with 1/8 left?
@@FrugalRepair Fuel treatment and then fill it up just prior to your next real trip.
Awesome! Thanks. I really appreciate it.
Oh my gosh I felt so excited for you when it started!
Thanks! I was very excited to hear it start up. We took it cross country recently and had no engine trouble, thankfully.
Cracking the fuel lines up near the injectors will let you pump all the air out of the line. Anytime you introduce air into the fuel system you need to bleed it. Air is compressible diesel is not. When you compress all the air up to the injectors it will take a long time for that air to get through the injectors and the fuel to reach the combustion chamber. Cracking the bolts loose at each injector will allow you to easily force the air out of the system. Cranking the engine over with them cracked does the same thing. But with this being a rear engine a remote start switch would be helpful so you don't flood the compartment with diesel and you can keep an eye on when the fuel reaches the injectors.
Thanks for the suggestion, makes sense. I had not considered that option. Is there a downside (besides fuel spraying out) to doing that?
@@FrugalRepair I have diesel tractor(s) and have a time or two ran them out of diesel., Dumb. You have to push all the air out like @kencramer1697 stated, the process he gave is the best way to do it. Yes it is a bit dirty but really not any severe down side for a guy with your talent.
@@FrugalRepair
Wear goggles and gloves.
That high-pressure can inject fuel right into your skin.
This journey was 6 minutes for me... infinite for you! What a trip either way... omg nice job!
Thanks, appreciate it! I’m glad you enjoyed it and thanks for watching.
@@FrugalRepairgot new sub!
05:55
On some rigs, above the entry are a pair of switches.
In 'OFF', each disconnects either the house or start bank.
This should reduce parasitic draws.
Mine has a switch like that. I have learned later on there was a short inside the alternator. So I had to replace that and all is well.
Had a Mercedes diesel with similar problem, put a non return valve behind the front filter, will stop any fuel returning back to the tank. Avoids all that priming change the air filter.
Thanks! This engine supposedly has one but perhaps it got stuck open?
Great sleuthing! Glad you got it started.
Thanks, me too!
Would love to see all the unedited footage of the all cranking! Sounds like there was tons of it 🥰
lol, I don’t think that would be very entertaining to watch. But the engine has been running great since.
@@FrugalRepairI’d love to see it 😊
Biological's form in diesel when it sits for long periods of time, you have to put additive into the diesel when it sits. When you change fuel filters take some diesel and fill up the filter with diesel and then install it.
Thanks! How long is a 'long time' usually? Like a few months? If I put the additive in now, should I change both fuel filters again soon after? Or can I see how it goes and not worry if I don't have any issues?
@@FrugalRepair if it's sitting longer than 6 months with the same fuel you need to run some anti biological in it. If you are going to be taking a road trip soon i would change the filters also adding half a quart of ATF or a small bottle of 2 stroke oil to the fuel every tank will keep your injectors lubed since we have to run low sulfur diesel. Don't do that on a newer diesel with DPF though! Not trying to be negative but those Cat engines are expensive to work on and they don't have anywhere near as long a service life as a Cummins.
@@williamzoom Thanks. Do you mean change the fuel filters again? (I had changed them in this video) I just added biocide to the tank and a few gallons of diesel.
@@FrugalRepair Fuel filters are cheap injectors and injection pumps are very expensive so I would run it for an hour and replace them again if you are planning on taking it for a trip. If it's just sitting I would not bother right now. The only thing that sucks worse than working on one of them on the side of the road is paying 2k dollars for a tow because roadside assistance cannot handle a vehicle of that size!
How cool that you fig it out!!
I think you saw how excited I was in the video. It was such a relief to hear that engine purring. The RV took us all around the country without any engine trouble. Thanks for watching!
Good discovery’s. Congratulations.
Thanks!
@@FrugalRepair
Thank's...
Hello Reese 🥖🍞. Nice analyzing job Have a Nice trip 🚌👍. Best Mads 🇩🇰
Thank you! Hope you're doing well.
I get my own repairs, and are super. Always great to follow your new repairs. Have a great trip 😊👍👍
Same motor, my wait to start light only comes on the very first time of the season, then I never see it stay on again until next year. It chokes black smoke every time I try to start it, but if I turn the block heater on it starts smoothly every time.
Love the video! So glad it worked out for you in the end. I am hoping for the day I can get a diesel motorhome.
Thanks! Hope it works for you to get one.
@@FrugalRepair Thank you. I really hope it does. My dad introduced me to the RV lifestyle back in the 80's, and I love it. Plus, I love to tinker. So, this is right up my alley. lol
just found your channel when I looked up solar panels diy. it's still way past something I can do or my husband. we are moving when the economy/housing market gets a bit better.. but def going to invest in solar bc electric bills are outrageous. right now we live in a town in Delaware that purchases electric from the main electric Co and RESELLS it to us at a higher price..we pay more for our electric than my MIL who owns a 4 story townhouse does & we have a small 2 bd home. just shows you how much MORE we pay due to the upcharge. I love seeing RVS restored! I've been watching a channel where thus couple bought land. yet they only have TH-cam as their $$. they bought the land & should have bought a camper ! you can't live in the woods forever..anyways I subbed. glad u got it started!!
Thanks! Hope you can get solar one day.
A nice DIY fix channel!
Thanks! 👍
@@FrugalRepair You're welcome, not sure if you love to test a car diagnostic tool.
Is there a check valve on the fuel line? It shouldn't go dry like that. Usually the check valve is built into the fuel pump.
Thanks. I’ve read up on it more and you might be right that the check valve could have been part of issue. The check valve (if I’m understanding correctly) is on the return line at the back of the engine (where unspent fuel returns to the tank). Would it be plausible that if it did have dirt in it causing it to be open, that now the engine is running fine that it might have cleared it out?
@@FrugalRepair given the age it could just be a degraded check valve. I would consider it cheap insurance to not have this happen again on the road. I don't know where yours specifically is located. But regardless of location I would change it.
OK, thanks! I would have to remove the hand pump and oil filter base to get at it.
Congrats my guy
Thanks!
Congrats on taking a new challenge and succeeding!
I got a question though, what microphone are you using? It's very crisp audio
Thank you! I know a little about electronics/computers but engines are new to me. If you want to check out the equipment I use I have it all listed on my amazon shop page. In this video I used the sennheiser G4 lav, deity D3 shotgun mic, and just the phone's camera/mic (when it sounded the worst).
Don't forget to loosen the air bleeder when you pump fuel into the new filter so it will fill till it runs out the bleeder you loosened, the tighten down bleeder.
Thanks! I really appreciate the tip. Where would I find the air bleeder on the cat 3126? And do you mean the first or second stage filter?
@@FrugalRepair On the filter block it should be above the filter, check the first one and fill it then check the secondary filter and see if it also has a bleeder and of so do they same process. Do you have a pump lever on the fuel pump or a squeeze pump in line?
@@FrugalRepair If it's on the fuel pump, you may have to cycle the engine to move the cam lobe that operates the fuel pump so you can pump it manually.
Super awesome video! Thank you even though you were hot n sweaty. That's the weather for us rt now too! 😂
Thanks for watching! I can’t wait to take another trip.
Good job
Thanks for watching!
Are the house-batteries and the powertrain-batteries the same batteries?
If they are, you might want to look at battery isolation that would allow you to split duties off so that any power draw in the house portion doesn't drain the powertrain portion, but where both can be charged when the engine runs.
They are separated from each other normally. (Two for engine and two for house) When starting you can press a button on the dash that connects them if the engine batteries need help getting the engine started.
Yay, new project 🤗
You need to bleed the fuel line
Nice stuff
Thanks for watching!
Crack fuel line at one of injectors
Good thought. But I’m a little hesitant to open it up at the injector, maybe it’s easier than I think. If I have to do this again I might just connect a vacuum on the fuel line as close to the second filter as I can.
Get some killz and put it in your fuel tank moisture has algae growing in it common problems when something sits. also use some seafoam and Howes. Need to get some new fuel ran through it, not a good sign. Have a couple filters handy as well, you'll need to replace them quicker then normal just some friendly advice.
Thanks. After this I put some biocide in the tank. The clear bowl at the water separator looks clean to me after driving it around a bit. How would I know when to change the fuel filters quicker than normal? Is there a mileage range you would go by?
@@FrugalRepair normal oil change on a diesel is 10k I do all my filters on my semi , which is just a bigger version, I would say 5k swap fuel. For like two cycles then every oil change. But if you're not using it that much . I would say probably two - three months. Change em , that stuff is super bad for the injection system , killz is a good product you'll have to research where to buy it. But just keep after the fuel treatment have a great night
Thanks!
Clogged fuel filters for sure, should have prefilled both filters. Clogged fuel filters cause a weak lift pump, replacing the lift pump will be in your future.
2am Sunday morning.
I won't discount all the advice everyone gave on old diesel fuel and check valves.
43 years ago I found myself on the shoulder of the road.
my 1st year driving a 18 wheeler.
it had a Caterpillar diesel.
the engine was starving for fuel.
the Caterpillar dealer in Riverside, California later found a rubber gasket that was installed backwards and allowed air to enter the pressurized fuel INJECTION system.
several times I had to loosen the fuel lines at each injector, pump the fuel until it got to the injector...you'll see air bubbles in the fuel itself.
when the fuel is clear of air bubbles, tighten each line at the injector.
your pressurized system is ready for take off.
Caterpillar motors are great.
Detroit's too.
Cummins I drove was a 335
1968 Kenworth log truck with a 335 Cummins motor.
what I liked was the spin on fuel filter was mounted waist high on the frame rail.
no bending or getting dirty.
it's best to fill the fuel filter first, then install.
with a 335 Cummins motor you can actually install a empty filter right out of the box.
the air inside the empty fuel filter won't affect a Cummins pressurized fuel system.
don't try that with Detroit or Caterpillar...I repeat, Don't try that with a Detroit or Caterpillar
Thanks for posting! I hope we don’t have any more fuel issues but I will keep these all in mind.
Mine wont turn on with ignition key but dash lights work I go to the back after turning key to on and push up on fuel stop and I put a push button to start fom back once stop is up the fuel stop, I push button and she starts every time, some times fuel stop won't stay up after pushing it so I have to hold it up and start and it works every time also. I don't know why but it does
Glad you figured out a solution. Thanks for sharing.
I am hooked on the channel you are just like me
Put myself through trade school twice millwright and electrician
Man you did good
Thanks! It got us around the country and no engine trouble, thankfully.
A little tip. If possibly if you can take a line off near that little hand pump you can tape a shop vac to it and vacuum the fuel to that area. May save some time!
Great suggestion. I hope there’s not a “next time” but I’ll keep that in mind.
Sucking fuel through a shop vac sounds like a "Hold my Beer!" idea. I know it's diesel, not gasoline, but.........
great!
Thank you for such an informative video, I wish your family & yourself many years of happiness & wonderful memories in this beautiful "Home 🏡 on wheels" Much Love Worldwide ♥️ 🌎.
Blessed Be. 🙏🏽🤍🕊💫. Xx
Thanks for watching!
Thank god you did not use starter fluid
You mean spray it in the air intake? I heard some suggest that but I looked into it and realized that was not a good idea.
And the reason why it says wait to start is cause older diesel, vehicles or any diesel vehicle needs time for the glow plugs to warm up so that the fuel will ignite
Nice!
Thanks for watching!
Those filters were a mess. Looks like mold. It happens when diesel sits for awhile inside a metal tank. There is a product that can takes care of the mold in the tank.
Thanks! Should I still add some additive now, or don’t worry about it?
@@FrugalRepair I would add Additives if it sat a while.
ok, thanks!
I am glad you make running the Engine I am try to buy one like yours because I want travel all the way to Texas I am living close to New Hampshire and Massachusetts and I am planning but one caravan home to working and Texas and move all my staff there
The engine has been working great since this video. Hopefully you can find something that works for you.
Tank is probably got Gerald
I put the biocide in and changed filters and I’ve not had any issues since
We did it
My 1997 ford minnie winnie will crank but wont start.
I’m guessing that’s a gas engine. Hopefully you can get it figured out.
@@FrugalRepair yes gas engine and it seems like fuel pump isn't having enough pressure. Fuel filter been changed and lines then cleared.
🤝🏻
You could do it
Thanks for the encouragement!
Creat channel
Thanks!
You gotta know something about mechanics......seriously , what the hell is a " junky vacum"?? 3:29
Next time pressure wash your engine before working on it.
Clogged jets