Martin's videos have always been a primary go to source for answers. Thank you Joanie for keeping the tutorials up and available. Condolences to you for your loss. Rest well Martin.
Great video, your attention to detail is truely impressive. I have one suggestion, this is a trick I used on the fleet of commercial trucks that maintained. Solenoids were always mounted on the firewall requiring me to get assistance to unbolt the solenoid since I could reach both sides. I imagine similar to your situation with the box. What did was get a slightly longer mounting bolts and 2 nuts and lock washers per bolt(2 bolts 4 nuts and lock washers per solenoid) and then I reversed the bolt (head on the outside with a lock washer and nut on the inside never to be removed again! No more rust problems or reaching issues. Now on the inside of you box you'll have a stud that you will slide the solenoid onto and secure with a nut and lock washer. From that point on mounting will be done from inside the box without need of assistance. Now this will push the solenoids out away from the wall a 1/4" but in your case I do not think (and in most cases) it will not matter at all. Just a thought happy RVing.
I keep going back to Martins videos. The intro is one of the best on TH-cam. Keep strong Joanie, you don't walk alone in this world. Lost our 23-year-old granddaughter on the 23rd of this month. We will be together again on the other side.
Martin has been a big help to me in understanding how to troubleshoot and how to replace items as well as how to maintain them. I can honestly say I had one of these solenoids go bad and that is why I am here. I know he is gone but will never be forgotten.
Hi Martin, had the same issue 1 day before departure. No time for the $25 amaxon delco relay. Auto parts took $120 from me with a smile for the same relay. Cured the issue. Love your channel. Be safe, get healthy. Prayers are with you. Bob & Lynda from Montreal, Canada
Thanks Martin! Another top shelf video! Our old RV had a control box made for Thor that did this function. It would charge both sets of batteries from alternator or shore/generator power. And tie them for EM start. If for some reason your house batteries go completely dead, charging the house batteries may cause a 50 amp fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to trip. The alternator can pump over 50 amps into the batteries. The circuit breaker will have a very tiny reset button.
I love learning. I just saw your channel today. We are similar you and I. We both wear the same clothes, head band, light, tattos.. and now I will start wearing tube socks on my Arms. Iam a certified automobile technician, and I own a allegro bus, kinda rare one for its time with extra axle 1996. I know your rv Is much different then mine but It still helps watching your videos because of the good info lots of helpful stuff,..great work.
Just wanted to stop in and thank you for reaffirming how important it is to understand one’s unit, almost paid someone to do it for me but when I saw your video I fixed problem myself 👍
Hello Martin, new to your channel, and really appreciate your videos. Great production. We charge the house deep cycle marine battery with a Victron DC/DC Converter which does 3 stage charging (Bulk, Absorb, Float), rather than just dumping continuous current into the battery. The Victron goes between the start and house batteries. Its also Lithium ready. Thanks again.
That Grinding hat really made my day Martin! lol Not to sure if my wife would give up one of her winter toboggan hats that's that nice to work under our RV with but its worth a try. Hope you all are having a nice summer and keep up the great work please stay safe and healthy.👍
I have had only 2 RVs in my life and BOTH had solenoid failures as you describe. Both were challenging to access and replace. Both were discovered failing by the lack of charging just as you have described. Prior to watching your video, I figured that it was just an amazing coincidence that these failed on me on 2 unrelated RVs. But now I know this must be a common problem. I am guessing the contacts get corroded inside from arcing high amperage along with environmental moisture? Not sure. But love your videos and you should know that you are a help to both the newbie and the little more advanced type owners!
*these failed on me on 2 unrelated RVs. But now I know this must be a common problem* Not a coincidence but yes common. It's a PM item. Just be pro active and change them out every 5yrs. or so. The constant engaging and disengaging wears them out.
I just got my first rv cause someone inhereted it from his mother when she died and he didn't want to look at it anymore so he sold it to me for $2500. I've only had it for 6 hours, and I have no idea where why of the things in this video are located. All I know is it starts and drives perfectly, and the hydraulics work. As far as the switches for the electrical, I know nothing except there is a dedicated rocker switch for the head unit with two options, main or aux. Flipped to main, nothing happens. Flipped to aux, the speakers start going "beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee" Though I know nothing about rvs, I do have some knowledge about installing overpowered sound systems in cars. I always ran my subs off a second battery separated by an isolator. All this stuff makes sense to me, but I have no idea where the "coach" batteries might be located in the rv
Martin, if you ever have plastic parts brake or crack on you, you can get a plastic welder at Harbor Fright. It comes with a variety of plastic weld rods. Looks much like a sodering iron and runs around $20. It's great for holding tank cracks and other items made of plastic. Well your there, you can also get rod to weld pot metal and aluminum. Just heat the surface to 640° f then rub the rod on the hot metal. This is good for alternator ears that may brake. By using a small piece of steel strap (like used on banding crates or large boxes) rap the corner and clamp the strap to hold the shape that's missing. Now heat the area melting the rod. Let it cool, drill it & tap it. 😎
Martin, as always you go above and beyond in explaining what & how to go about whatever repair you are doing. Thank You and keep the video's coming. Joe
I ordered my parts mid watch on this program. My problem is shore connection to house batteries but in essence the same problem. Just to make sure, I'm changing all of them. I have watched a lot of videos, got the wiring diagrams and was still not sure where to start. Thanks to your work, I simply know what I need to do. I now have the rest of your videos to watch.
Great Instructional Video! I absolutely love your attitude about learning and accomplishing tasks. One observation I would make is that I doubt the efficacy of blue loctite on a sheet metal screw. I would have strongly considered replacing it with a machine screw, nut & washers and then adding the loctite. Thanks for a Wonderful video! You gave me the confidence I need to tackle this issue on my RV.
Martin another great video. I just looked at my BIM system yesterday. We have a 2016 Vista 30T. So going on 6 years it’s time to replace the solenoids.
You did a great job of explaining and testing the batteries. Thank you!!!! I loved how you even showed the fix for the screws. Great video!!! I never even thought about carrying extra solenoids.
Martin. Again a spot on video and great training and delivery techniques. I have a Winnebago 2018 Sunstar LX, 35 F. My set up is completely different. I just took the time to study the schematic and ordering parts from Winnebago. The Winnebago drawings and diagrams are invaluable. I just hope I am understand correctly. Due to your video I began to study the schematics in more depth and have located different fuses in conjunction to the batteries and inverter. Also learning how naive I am and not being prepared. No problems so far but might be on thin ice, so to speak. Thanks again. Blessings. David
Thanks so much for making this video! I had the same problem with my ‘08 Itasca Sunstar, and was happy to find that I had the exact BIM system. I made the repair today - the directions were spot on - and now my coach batteries are charging! I’m telling all my RV friends to subscribe!
Great info...My RV is ONLY 4 yrs old and I also have a backup switch to allow me to start my RV using the house battery..Usually check my house battery (Only one) in the spring..Thanks again..
I was wondering if you were going to chime in about that. You seem to always be watching for those mile stones. You too sweet 💕 Yes we're doing fine and VERY happy. However I did just get over Covid AGAIN. Twice in 8 months. But fine now. Joanie didn't get it this time thank God.
Congrats on getting over 50k subs'. Just not to long ago purchased my first Class A and have learned so much from you guys. Keep up the good work and Good health.
Great information as always. I would have used Rivnuts instead to eliminate the need to go behind the bay in future. Just my 2 cents. Keep up the great videos Martin!
Excellent video, Martin. I wonder if it is necessary to disconnect positive from batteries because there is no circuit once the negative is disconnected. Thanks.
Follow up on the solenoid subject! Fun with solenoids! Well after watching your video on solenoids, I figured I better get on with paying some attention to the ones on my rig. I had been eyeballing the solenoid on the hydraulic pump for the jacks. On our 2016 Adventurer the pump and solenoid sit right behind the front driver’s side wheel with not protection from road spray other than a mud flap. I noticed the terminals on the pump solenoid were rather corroded. When I went to loosen them to clean them well- let’s just say the terminals were in fact terminal! The nuts were so rusted/corroded that they immediately snapped off! I was rather panicky as the jack were down and I had visions of never being able to find the exact solenoid. I ran in to get on the computer and luckily the make and model of the solenoid popped right up to be delivered within 24 hours at decent price (courtesy of RVSTREET’s store LOL). Anyway, should be back in service tomorrow. Why they leave such equipment exposed to road spray and hazards is beyond me. Just happy Martin stimulated my attention to the solenoid detail, so it didn’t fail on the road as there obviously wasn’t much life left in that solenoid!!!
Follow up to jack pump solenoid repair: Luckily access to the solenoid and jack pump motor on my rig is excellent- (despite being exposed to constant road spray and hazard). That made for an easy replacement of the solenoid. The hardest part - and even that wasn’t that bad- was getting the clamp that holds the solenoid in place to the motor back on the new solenoid. Took a few minutes but overall, it was a very easy job. A couple of points: 1. Make sure you either mark the wires to go back on to the appropriate terminal posts or take a picture before changing them out, 2. Watch the torque settings as stated on the casing of the solenoid! Only 40-inch lbs. for the large terminal connections. And only 15-inch lbs. for the small terminal connections. The 15-inch lb. setting is very light and I suspect they were not properly torqued in the factory on the old solenoid which led to me snapping off the terminal internally when it corroded. 3. I applied battery terminal protectant to each terminal when I finished. 4. For safety’s sake I killed all power to the rig while engaged in the repair
Excellent Video!!! Got to put this on the to do list. I'm approaching 7 years of age on the rig so the clock is ticking! Mine aren't exposed to the elements as your were but they have the age on them. On our 2016 the access is on a compartment wall not exposed to the outside and I imagine the set up is like yours. The one I am really worried about though and have to get on soon is the solenoid on the hydraulic jacks which takes a beating from road spray. Love that hat! 😁
very good like you , i would rather do my own work take my time and do the job neatly and correct, instead of bringing it to some dealership and waiting 2-3 months and hoping they did not do a half ass job!!!! thank you for your time
He skipped that saying he'll replace all 3 and likely solve his charging problem. But you can diagnose which is not working by using your voltimeter , checking each pole. In my case i just replaced that small middle solenoid for $15 to get it charging again. It had 14v in from alt but not going out to the battery so i knew it was bad, after 20 years. Just buy the others and keep them on hand if you want spares for emergencies. Preventive maintenance works best if you are preventing bigger costs, if you replace early its the same or even extra costs by throwing away a good part.
Thank you so much for these videos! We have fixed several things on our MH since we've been watching your vids. Narrowed down the amount of physical research that we had to do while trying to figure out where to start the search. Had issues with our solenoid, relay switch, ect Love the vids keep em coming!!👍
Always appreciate, gonna come in handy someday, I pray. You are the DIY RV Guy. Don't be embarrassed about the hat, it's really yours, think I saw you wearing it in Walmart once. lol, Take Care Martin, Hi Joanie
Great video. A quick question--did you consider replacing all of the parts in your system with a Precision Circuits BIM? For the price of the BIM, you would be all in for about $160 and have a system with many fewer moving parts and points of failure.
Martin, First, I hope your health is improving. Secondly, I have exact same coach and year. Had to replace coach intelict solenoid. When I got the schematic it called for a relay but mine didn’t have it. Do you know what the relay controls? Bruce
I dumped my dead acid house batteries and installed LFE batteries that fit in the same space. I then installed a 50 Amp DCDC converter to charge them from the alternator. Live is good now. Half the weight and twice the capacity.
Hello Martin, funny you made this video. I too am having a BIM issue. When I start the engine the solenoid starts clicking like crazy and the motor rpms start surging and it stalls out. I changed the center solenoid and it didn't fix it. I need to swap out the house and chassis solenoids, as well as the relay and verify those. Needless to say I am not charging house batteries while driving. I ended up just disconnecting the power wires to the solenoids from the chassis battery to remove the solenoids from the equation and keep my motor running normal. If I have needed power running down the road, I just turn on the generator to keep the batteries charged.
Martin do you know the path the ignition power takes to the BIM. We don't have power at the LI-BIM but can't find fuse and wondering if it's the relay. I have a Vista LX 27N 2018.
My 2018 Winnebago Vista is a little different. My isolator solenoid failed after only 3yrs. It was rated to 250Amps, and failed way too soon. So I replace it with a 500Amp solenoid. It was actually pretty easy to replace, and the bigger solenoid fit in fine. What was interesting to note, since the 500Amp is physically larger, the mounting holes of the solenoid bracket are about 1/4" wider than the stock solenoid. However Winnebago pre-drilled a hole in the bay sheet metal to fit the larger solenoid I bought from Amaz on. My 500Amp has been working like a champ for a year now. Amaz on sells them for $41. I think it will last longer since it's rated 2X the stock solenoid.
Tom, Your solenoid that failed, most likely failed on the coil part of it, not the power contact connection. So, it may last longer but not because you doubled the amp rating of the contacts.
I thought I was needed to boycott a beer there for a moment! lol. Great job explaining your repair! Now I'm wondering about my relays and agree they just go poof coming from a technical background.
So. Brother bug thanks I wonder having the intel 366 bird if it is the the bird or solenoid ? My deal is both battery’s are being charged rather ignitions is on or off
Good video if you have lead acid house batteries and lead acid chassis batteries. About 6 months ago I upgraded the house batteries on my coach to LiFePo-4 batteries. I built 2 6v lithium batteries out of 8, 280ah prismatic cells, (fora 560ah 12v battery) because I wanted the most battery capacity that could fit under the steps of my motorhome, as I have the same set-up that you do. But replacing my old GC-2 golf cart house batteries isn't just a straightforward drop-in. I needed to install a BMS and active balancer to keep everything safe and all cells balanced as I was dealing with raw battery cells and not a commercially made battery with an internal BMS. I also needed to disconnect the relay that connected the house to the chassis battery for charging as lithium batteries have very low internal resistance so would draw too much power from my alternator, frying it if I left the factory relay connected. Instead, I purchased a Renogy battery to battery charger that connects the house and chassis batteries together, when the engine is running but limits the current going into the house batteries, allowing the alternator to safely charge the house batteries providing the correct charging profile for the lithium battery chemistry too. They make several different sizes, but I chose the smaller 20a model so I wouldn't overstress my stock alternator, maintaining its reliability. We also have a 620-watt liftable solar array, as we are FTers who boondock most of the time and an 80 amp lithium compatible converter/charger to keep out house batteries properly charged.
Please consider a video discussing charging Lifepo4 using alternator and dc/dc charger. Thx Ur video us very good I will follow and watch your library so I can learn thx
Just found your channel and have subscribed after watching this first video. In your case, the house batteries were not being charged by the alternator. Could the same issue cause the chassis batteries to not charge while the house batteries are being charged … albeit the other solenoid in you configuration?
Martin, I noticed your scan gauge. What style do you have. It seems confusing with all of the various styles of scan gauge I II or III. Will they all work in our motorhomes? 2011 Fleetwood Southwind with the ford V-10. What are you scanning in yours beside voltage. Great Video by the way. Kevin
Re: replacing solenoids... did the print on both solenoids say "chassis"? The center isolator solenoid was a 200A part? Where did you get it? Is there a name for the relay you bought or part #. You said you got it from an electrical parts supplier but how did u know what relay to purchase? Good video. Beyond my skill set but will take the parts to a mechanic. Class A Newmar Canyon Star 2011. They have only one part online, chassis solenoid.
The house batteries power everything in the RV that runs on 12V. If you turn ON the inverter, the inverter takes the 12V power from the house batteries and converts it 120V to some of the outlets in the house. BTW...I rarely use my inverter unless I'm boon docking. The chassis battery powers everything on the chassis. In most cases like....starting the engine, the slides and usually the power steps.
Another great video! I do have a different question for you however. 2 part question. Does your RV have decals? If so when using a dual action polisher can you polish over decals without ruining them? If so rpm max do you suggest? Any info would be greatly appreciated!
Yes my RV has Vinyl Graphics and yes I polish over them with my DA polisher usually set at about 5200 rpms or so. The polish is actually good for them. It removes accumulated grime, conditions them and makes them shine again. Once I complete polishing a side of the RV, I protect everything with RejeX. Sun is what destroys the graphics so RejeX protects from UV rays. You might want to watch this video that explains the process I use: th-cam.com/video/ewXghIetIw4/w-d-xo.html Here's all my videos: th-cam.com/users/RVstreetplaylists
Hi! Very helpful video! I have a question that may be related....I have #4 6volt Trojan house batteries that need to be replaced. Can I replace them with 2 12 volts? Thanks in advance!
thx Geo, Yes you could but I don't know why you'd do that. Your batt bay is already wired up for the 6v batts and if you switch out, your usable amp hrs would be greatly reduced. If you ever get into a situation where you need your batteries for an extended period of time-think grid down, all types of different emergencies, very cold temps etc-you'll really wish you had those 4 - 6V batt's again. If it's the money you're trying to save, the difference of cost is only about $300 and that cost would be spread out over several years of usage. And don't be fooled by seeing 12v batts rated as "DEEP CYCLE BATT'S". They are nothing like the true Deep Cycle 6v Trojans you have now. I had 2 - 12v batts when I first bought this coach years ago. Changing them over to 6v batt's was one of the first things I did. To put it another way, if this was my set up I would NOT go to 12V batts of any kind.
Hi Martin, I hope this message finds you feeling better and optimistic about the future. If you might remember, I determined that the alternator was not charging the house batteries of our 1994 Fleetwood Flair on the Chevy P30 chassis, only the chassis battery was being charged. I ordered 2 replacement solonoids (through your Amazon store), and just finished installing them. Unfortunately, the situation has not changed. The alternator is still not charging the house batteries. I didn't see any other relays to replace, as you did in your video. Do you have any other suggestions as to a correction for this problem?
I'm broken hearted to say Martin passed away April 2nd. I will be keeping up the channel but I don't have knowledge of technical things so I'm unable to answer your questions. Sorry
@@RVstreet OMG Joanie...I am also broken hearted over the news...this happened so suddenly...I really loved his personality and humor...please accept my sincerest condolences for your loss from a member of your extended internet family
So I bought the weboost through your store. I am clueless as to how to run the outside antenna wire into the coach. Any suggestion greatly appreciated!! Thanks.
Hi Trav, Well, weBoost does have several suggestions on their website. It just depends on the type of rig you have. For me, I mounted my outside antenna on the top of my rear ladder, ran the coax down the seam of the back cap and into my wet bay where I have a coax mounting plate for cable TV. So I screwed the out side antenna cable there. And then from the mounting plate another coax cable runs thru the RV all the way to the cabinets up front in the cabin area where there is another cable TV coax plate and there I ran the second coax cable and installed the rest of the unit including the interior antenna. You're just going to have to be creative. Every RV is going to be different. But take your time, think it thru and I'm confident you'll find a good solution for your set up. Once installed, you're really going to like how it performs. BTW....thank you so much for using our Amazon Store to help support us. It means a lot 🙏
It's in my Amazon Store in the "Everything Electrical" category. It's the exact one I have installed except it doesn't have the Bookdocker logo on it. www.amazon.com/shop/rvstreet
I am going to let my wife know about using your Amazon store to buy her items. I expect you will become very rich from the credits you will receive from her transactions. Now, where do I find the link? I looked 'up there', and 'over there' but can't seem to find the darn thing! Oh, and thanks for your time/effort making these videos......you should make a bloopers video sometime.
Thanks so much Larry 🙏 My Store: www.amazon.com/shop/rvstreet Since you're having difficulty finding links and navigating youtube in general, watch this video I did. It will make your experience much better: th-cam.com/video/bprAsHO7-F8/w-d-xo.html All my videos: th-cam.com/users/RVstreetplaylists Bloopers huh? Watch this video: th-cam.com/video/b0ErOaLNows/w-d-xo.html OR....this one: th-cam.com/video/47F5hhWMu5w/w-d-xo.html
I'm having the opposite problem... Plugged into shore power, my house batteries charge, but not my chassis batteries. I have to run my generator for 15 minutes every week to charge them. Same part failed? Isolator relay? According to my owner's manual, my float charger is supposed to charge the house batteries until their full, then switch to charging the chassis batteries, then switch back. 2007 Beaver Contessa DP.
FYI : #1 . In an electrical fire if you disconnect the ground wire it will speed up the short / fire..so disconnect the positive wire first in an electrical short. #2. You can purchase nomex arm protectors from the parts store that will protect you from anything "hot"
Martin's videos have always been a primary go to source for answers. Thank you Joanie for keeping the tutorials up and available. Condolences to you for your loss. Rest well Martin.
I plan on keeping the videos up as long as possible. I know they help people and Martin loved helping people. ♥️
When I come across an issue, Martin always has an answer. Thank you and blessings for leaving the videos up.
Thank you for watching. I will leave them up for as long as youtube allows me to
Great video, your attention to detail is truely impressive. I have one suggestion, this is a trick I used on the fleet of commercial trucks that maintained. Solenoids were always mounted on the firewall requiring me to get assistance to unbolt the solenoid since I could reach both sides. I imagine similar to your situation with the box. What did was get a slightly longer mounting bolts and 2 nuts and lock washers per bolt(2 bolts 4 nuts and lock washers per solenoid) and then I reversed the bolt (head on the outside with a lock washer and nut on the inside never to be removed again! No more rust problems or reaching issues. Now on the inside of you box you'll have a stud that you will slide the solenoid onto and secure with a nut and lock washer. From that point on mounting will be done from inside the box without need of assistance. Now this will push the solenoids out away from the wall a 1/4" but in your case I do not think (and in most cases) it will not matter at all. Just a thought happy RVing.
Love your video and attitude - take the pebble from my hand, grasshopper. Better for people to learn than just ask for help. Keep up the great work.
Martin the thing I like most about your videos is that you are very articulate and very knowledgeable, keep up the good work.
I keep going back to Martins videos. The intro is one of the best on TH-cam. Keep strong Joanie, you don't walk alone in this world. Lost our 23-year-old granddaughter on the 23rd of this month. We will be together again on the other side.
I'm so sorry for your loss. The thought that Martin and I will be together again is what keeps me going.
Martin has been a big help to me in understanding how to troubleshoot and how to replace items as well as how to maintain them. I can honestly say I had one of these solenoids go bad and that is why I am here.
I know he is gone but will never be forgotten.
Thank you so much. ♥️
Hi Martin, had the same issue 1 day before departure. No time for the $25 amaxon delco relay. Auto parts took $120 from me with a smile for the same relay. Cured the issue. Love your channel. Be safe, get healthy. Prayers are with you. Bob & Lynda from Montreal, Canada
Sure do enjoy these videos. What a guy Martin was and oh how he will be missed. So glad he had made so many of these fine videos. RIP Martin!
GREAT video. Exactly right about Solenoids. Replace em BEFORE you have problems. Thanks so much.
Thanks Martin! Another top shelf video!
Our old RV had a control box made for Thor that did this function. It would charge both sets of batteries from alternator or shore/generator power. And tie them for EM start. If for some reason your house batteries go completely dead, charging the house batteries may cause a 50 amp fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to trip. The alternator can pump over 50 amps into the batteries. The circuit breaker will have a very tiny reset button.
I love learning.
I just saw your channel today.
We are similar you and I.
We both wear the same clothes, head band, light, tattos.. and now I will start wearing tube socks on my Arms.
Iam a certified automobile technician, and I own a allegro bus, kinda rare one for its time with extra axle 1996.
I know your rv Is much different then mine but It still helps watching your videos because of the good info lots of helpful stuff,..great work.
Welcome aboard! It seems you and Martin could be twins. 😁
Just wanted to stop in and thank you for reaffirming how important it is to understand one’s unit, almost paid someone to do it for me but when I saw your video I fixed problem myself 👍
Hello Martin, new to your channel, and really appreciate your videos. Great production. We charge the house deep cycle marine battery with a Victron DC/DC Converter which does 3 stage charging (Bulk, Absorb, Float), rather than just dumping continuous current into the battery. The Victron goes between the start and house batteries. Its also Lithium ready. Thanks again.
Thanks for the info and welcome aboard 👍
Incredible video. Went over every detail. So many other videos out there don’t provide this kind of info.
Thank you sir, I'm glad it was helpful
Well done, and as usual, a do it your selfer often will do a better, more thorough job than paying a "professional".
That Grinding hat really made my day Martin! lol Not to sure if my wife would give up one of her winter toboggan hats that's that nice to work under our RV with but its worth a try. Hope you all are having a nice summer and keep up the great work please stay safe and healthy.👍
I have had only 2 RVs in my life and BOTH had solenoid failures as you describe. Both were challenging to access and replace. Both were discovered failing by the lack of charging just as you have described. Prior to watching your video, I figured that it was just an amazing coincidence that these failed on me on 2 unrelated RVs. But now I know this must be a common problem. I am guessing the contacts get corroded inside from arcing high amperage along with environmental moisture? Not sure. But love your videos and you should know that you are a help to both the newbie and the little more advanced type owners!
*these failed on me on 2 unrelated RVs. But now I know this must be a common problem*
Not a coincidence but yes common. It's a PM item. Just be pro active and change them out every 5yrs. or so. The constant engaging and disengaging wears them out.
Tran Siberia orchestra
What if you had lithiums for RV house but AGM for engine; that's presents a whole new set of issues.
Trato
I just got my first rv cause someone inhereted it from his mother when she died and he didn't want to look at it anymore so he sold it to me for $2500. I've only had it for 6 hours, and I have no idea where why of the things in this video are located. All I know is it starts and drives perfectly, and the hydraulics work. As far as the switches for the electrical, I know nothing except there is a dedicated rocker switch for the head unit with two options, main or aux.
Flipped to main, nothing happens.
Flipped to aux, the speakers start going "beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee"
Though I know nothing about rvs, I do have some knowledge about installing overpowered sound systems in cars. I always ran my subs off a second battery separated by an isolator. All this stuff makes sense to me, but I have no idea where the "coach" batteries might be located in the rv
Martin, if you ever have plastic parts brake or crack on you, you can get a plastic welder at Harbor Fright. It comes with a variety of plastic weld rods. Looks much like a sodering iron and runs around $20.
It's great for holding tank cracks and other items made of plastic. Well your there, you can also get rod to weld pot metal and aluminum. Just heat the surface to 640° f then rub the rod on the hot metal.
This is good for alternator ears that may brake. By using a small piece of steel strap (like used on banding crates or large boxes) rap the corner and clamp the strap to hold the shape that's missing. Now heat the area melting the rod. Let it cool, drill it & tap it. 😎
Great info
As always, Thank You RV Street for the time you take to do these Very helpful videos in supporting the RV community.
Martin, as always you go above and beyond in explaining what & how to go about whatever repair you are doing. Thank You and keep the video's coming. Joe
thx Joe so much 🙏
I ordered my parts mid watch on this program. My problem is shore connection to house batteries but in essence the same problem. Just to make sure, I'm changing all of them. I have watched a lot of videos, got the wiring diagrams and was still not sure where to start. Thanks to your work, I simply know what I need to do. I now have the rest of your videos to watch.
Good job Jerry 👍 I have no doubt that your perserverance will "get er done".
Great Instructional Video! I absolutely love your attitude about learning and accomplishing tasks. One observation I would make is that I doubt the efficacy of blue loctite on a sheet metal screw. I would have strongly considered replacing it with a machine screw, nut & washers and then adding the loctite. Thanks for a Wonderful video! You gave me the confidence I need to tackle this issue on my RV.
Martin another great video. I just looked at my BIM system yesterday. We have a 2016 Vista 30T. So going on 6 years it’s time to replace the solenoids.
You did a great job of explaining and testing the batteries. Thank you!!!! I loved how you even showed the fix for the screws. Great video!!! I never even thought about carrying extra solenoids.
Martin. Again a spot on video and great training and delivery techniques. I have a Winnebago 2018 Sunstar LX, 35 F. My set up is completely different. I just took the time to study the schematic and ordering parts from Winnebago. The Winnebago drawings and diagrams are invaluable. I just hope I am understand correctly. Due to your video I began to study the schematics in more depth and have located different fuses in conjunction to the batteries and inverter. Also learning how naive I am and not being prepared. No problems so far but might be on thin ice, so to speak. Thanks again. Blessings. David
Thanks so much for making this video! I had the same problem with my ‘08 Itasca Sunstar, and was happy to find that I had the exact BIM system. I made the repair today - the directions were spot on - and now my coach batteries are charging! I’m telling all my RV friends to subscribe!
Way to go David and thank you 🔧
Great info...My RV is ONLY 4 yrs old and I also have a backup switch to allow me to start my RV using the house battery..Usually check my house battery (Only one) in the spring..Thanks again..
I like this crazy old because he teach me alot
I probably would have checked for fix, after replacing first solenoid. Thank you
Outstanding video will save a lot of headaches for RV owners. As always wishing safe travels and fair weather.
Have not heard from you in awhile, hope you are doing well, our prayers are with, God Bless😎
Congrats on 50k subs Martin & Joanie. So well deserved...but long overdue IMHO. Hope you two are happy and staying healthy. Take care.... Marie
I was wondering if you were going to chime in about that. You seem to always be watching for those mile stones. You too sweet 💕
Yes we're doing fine and VERY happy. However I did just get over Covid AGAIN. Twice in 8 months. But fine now. Joanie didn't get it this time thank God.
Congrats on getting over 50k subs'. Just not to long ago purchased my first Class A and have learned so much from you guys. Keep up the good work and Good health.
Martin, Thank you for another great PM Video. Nice job.
Much appreciated.
Great information as always. I would have used Rivnuts instead to eliminate the need to go behind the bay in future. Just my 2 cents. Keep up the great videos Martin!
Agreed! I use rivnuts (nutzerts) all the time on projects where access is an issue.
You described my problem exactly on my class B. Thanks so much. Now I just have to figure out the part number and get home to fix it.
Excellent video, Martin. I wonder if it is necessary to disconnect positive from batteries because there is no circuit once the negative is disconnected. Thanks.
Nice job !! Thanks for the video!
Well done, Martin! I'm making NOTES!! ☺
Follow up on the solenoid subject! Fun with solenoids! Well after watching your video on solenoids, I figured I better get on with paying some attention to the ones on my rig. I had been eyeballing the solenoid on the hydraulic pump for the jacks. On our 2016 Adventurer the pump and solenoid sit right behind the front driver’s side wheel with not protection from road spray other than a mud flap. I noticed the terminals on the pump solenoid were rather corroded. When I went to loosen them to clean them well- let’s just say the terminals were in fact terminal! The nuts were so rusted/corroded that they immediately snapped off! I was rather panicky as the jack were down and I had visions of never being able to find the exact solenoid. I ran in to get on the computer and luckily the make and model of the solenoid popped right up to be delivered within 24 hours at decent price (courtesy of RVSTREET’s store LOL). Anyway, should be back in service tomorrow. Why they leave such equipment exposed to road spray and hazards is beyond me. Just happy Martin stimulated my attention to the solenoid detail, so it didn’t fail on the road as there obviously wasn’t much life left in that solenoid!!!
Follow up to jack pump solenoid repair:
Luckily access to the solenoid and jack pump motor on my rig is excellent- (despite being exposed to constant road spray and hazard). That made for an easy replacement of the solenoid. The hardest part - and even that wasn’t that bad- was getting the clamp that holds the solenoid in place to the motor back on the new solenoid. Took a few minutes but overall, it was a very easy job.
A couple of points:
1. Make sure you either mark the wires to go back on to the appropriate terminal posts or take a picture before changing them out,
2. Watch the torque settings as stated on the casing of the solenoid! Only 40-inch lbs. for the large terminal connections. And only 15-inch lbs. for the small terminal connections. The 15-inch lb. setting is very light and I suspect they were not properly torqued in the factory on the old solenoid which led to me snapping off the terminal internally when it corroded.
3. I applied battery terminal protectant to each terminal when I finished.
4. For safety’s sake I killed all power to the rig while engaged in the repair
That was a fantastic video. I am going to check out my 2016 Bounder. Also, congratulations on reaching 50K subscribers...Howard
You helped me a lot today! I’m new to the RV world and your channel, thanks a lot!
So glad the videos are helpful to you.
Great video, clearly explained. What I need now is one of those multi-meters. I will look in your Amazon store for one of those. Thank you Martin!
You were the man! Thanks Martin!
Your awesome u inspire me cuz I can't put a nail thru a wall LOL I'm not handy at all but this video helped a lot! thank u
Excellent Video!!! Got to put this on the to do list. I'm approaching 7 years of age on the rig so the clock is ticking! Mine aren't exposed to the elements as your were but they have the age on them. On our 2016 the access is on a compartment wall not exposed to the outside and I imagine the set up is like yours. The one I am really worried about though and have to get on soon is the solenoid on the hydraulic jacks which takes a beating from road spray. Love that hat! 😁
Great video AGAIN! I need to know this. YOU ARE THE MAN! I might have painted after the grinding.
Yep I painted the next day.
very good like you , i would rather do my own work take my time and do the job neatly and correct, instead of bringing it to some dealership and waiting 2-3 months and hoping they did not do a half ass job!!!! thank you for your time
Thank you for this video. Did I miss any part on how to tell if your solenoids are not working correctly?
He skipped that saying he'll replace all 3 and likely solve his charging problem. But you can diagnose which is not working by using your voltimeter , checking each pole. In my case i just replaced that small middle solenoid for $15 to get it charging again. It had 14v in from alt but not going out to the battery so i knew it was bad, after 20 years. Just buy the others and keep them on hand if you want spares for emergencies. Preventive maintenance works best if you are preventing bigger costs, if you replace early its the same or even extra costs by throwing away a good part.
So. Brother bug thanks I wonder having the intel 366 bird if it is the the bird or solenoid ?
How do I use a charger to charge my parallel batteries. I have the same battery layout as you. Where do I place my trickle charger clips at please?
Thank you so much for these videos! We have fixed several things on our MH since we've been watching your vids.
Narrowed down the amount of physical research that we had to do while trying to figure out where to start the search.
Had issues with our solenoid, relay switch, ect
Love the vids keep em coming!!👍
Always appreciate, gonna come in handy someday, I pray. You are the DIY RV Guy. Don't be embarrassed about the hat, it's really yours, think I saw you wearing it in Walmart once. lol, Take Care Martin, Hi Joanie
Great video. A quick question--did you consider replacing all of the parts in your system with a Precision Circuits BIM? For the price of the BIM, you would be all in for about $160 and have a system with many fewer moving parts and points of failure.
With a heavy heart I have to say that Martin has passed away and I honestly have no idea why he chose to do it the way he did it. Sorry
I am so sorry to hear that. He made some excellent videos that helped the RV community.
I had to replace both of mine and fixed the problem... Martin could you do a video on PM the furnace.
Martin,
First, I hope your health is improving.
Secondly,
I have exact same coach and year. Had to replace coach intelict solenoid. When I got the schematic it called for a relay but mine didn’t have it. Do you know what the relay controls?
Bruce
With a heavy heart I have to tell you that passed away on Sunday
I dumped my dead acid house batteries and installed LFE batteries that fit in the same space. I then installed a 50 Amp DCDC converter to charge them from the alternator. Live is good now. Half the weight and twice the capacity.
Great work!
Excellent work !!!!
Hello Martin, funny you made this video. I too am having a BIM issue. When I start the engine the solenoid starts clicking like crazy and the motor rpms start surging and it stalls out. I changed the center solenoid and it didn't fix it. I need to swap out the house and chassis solenoids, as well as the relay and verify those. Needless to say I am not charging house batteries while driving. I ended up just disconnecting the power wires to the solenoids from the chassis battery to remove the solenoids from the equation and keep my motor running normal. If I have needed power running down the road, I just turn on the generator to keep the batteries charged.
Martin do you know the path the ignition power takes to the BIM. We don't have power at the LI-BIM but can't find fuse and wondering if it's the relay. I have a Vista LX 27N 2018.
Look at your wiring schematics it will show you for your rig.
I learn a lot from you. Would the loose relay have been the reason it wasn’t charging? I know you said those other things needed replaced.
No. It wasn't the relay.
My 2018 Winnebago Vista is a little different. My isolator solenoid failed after only 3yrs. It was rated to 250Amps, and failed way too soon. So I replace it with a 500Amp solenoid. It was actually pretty easy to replace, and the bigger solenoid fit in fine. What was interesting to note, since the 500Amp is physically larger, the mounting holes of the solenoid bracket are about 1/4" wider than the stock solenoid. However Winnebago pre-drilled a hole in the bay sheet metal to fit the larger solenoid I bought from Amaz on. My 500Amp has been working like a champ for a year now. Amaz on sells them for $41. I think it will last longer since it's rated 2X the stock solenoid.
Tom, Your solenoid that failed, most likely failed on the coil part of it, not the power contact connection. So, it may last longer but not because you doubled the amp rating of the contacts.
I enjoy your videos, thanks for sharing!
I thought I was needed to boycott a beer there for a moment! lol.
Great job explaining your repair! Now I'm wondering about my relays and agree they just go poof coming from a technical background.
I’ll have to see wheee George’s are! I miss you guys!
Are there Any additional add ons that are required when installing lithium Batteries
Great video!
So. Brother bug thanks I wonder having the intel 366 bird if it is the the bird or solenoid ?
My deal is both battery’s are being charged rather ignitions is on or off
I'm sad to say that Martin has passed away and I don't have the answer to your question. Sorry
Beautiful informative video love the Spanish translation, I have an old rv not even know where they are located thank you very much
I'm glad you found it helpful! 👍
Thank you, my friend. May you rest in peace, my brother-in-arms.
I love that you use arm guards instead of a long sleeve shirt so you can still show off your “guns”.
Thank you for the video and valuable information.
Very helpful
Good video if you have lead acid house batteries and lead acid chassis batteries. About 6 months ago I upgraded the house batteries on my coach to LiFePo-4 batteries. I built 2 6v lithium batteries out of 8, 280ah prismatic cells, (fora 560ah 12v battery) because I wanted the most battery capacity that could fit under the steps of my motorhome, as I have the same set-up that you do. But replacing my old GC-2 golf cart house batteries isn't just a straightforward drop-in. I needed to install a BMS and active balancer to keep everything safe and all cells balanced as I was dealing with raw battery cells and not a commercially made battery with an internal BMS. I also needed to disconnect the relay that connected the house to the chassis battery for charging as lithium batteries have very low internal resistance so would draw too much power from my alternator, frying it if I left the factory relay connected. Instead, I purchased a Renogy battery to battery charger that connects the house and chassis batteries together, when the engine is running but limits the current going into the house batteries, allowing the alternator to safely charge the house batteries providing the correct charging profile for the lithium battery chemistry too. They make several different sizes, but I chose the smaller 20a model so I wouldn't overstress my stock alternator, maintaining its reliability. We also have a 620-watt liftable solar array, as we are FTers who boondock most of the time and an 80 amp lithium compatible converter/charger to keep out house batteries properly charged.
Please consider a video discussing charging Lifepo4 using alternator and dc/dc charger. Thx Ur video us very good I will follow and watch your library so I can learn thx
Thank you Martin.
Great information as usual. Thank You
Another very informative video! Thanks for doing what you do!
I appreciate that!
Martin. What’s your opinion on nylon lock nuts? Should negate the need for a lock washer, especially in limited spaces.
Yeah you could use those if you want.
Thank you. You are awsome and an inspiration.
Just found your channel and have subscribed after watching this first video. In your case, the house batteries were not being charged by the alternator. Could the same issue cause the chassis batteries to not charge while the house batteries are being charged … albeit the other solenoid in you configuration?
I am sad to say that Martin has passed away and I don't have the answer to your question. Sorry
Great advice!
Great video
Martin, I noticed your scan gauge. What style do you have. It seems confusing with all of the various styles of scan gauge I II or III. Will they all work in our motorhomes? 2011 Fleetwood Southwind with the ford V-10. What are you scanning in yours beside voltage. Great Video by the way. Kevin
Scan gauge for what purpose?
Re: replacing solenoids... did the print on both solenoids say "chassis"? The center isolator solenoid was a 200A part? Where did you get it? Is there a name for the relay you bought or part #. You said you got it from an electrical parts supplier but how did u know what relay to purchase? Good video. Beyond my skill set but will take the parts to a mechanic. Class A Newmar Canyon Star 2011.
They have only one part online, chassis solenoid.
I'm sad to say Martin has passed away and I don't have the answers to your question. Sorry
@@RVstreet So sorry. His great videos will inspire many to DIY for years to come.
Thank you! I’m new to RV. Would you mind explaining to me the difference between house and chassis batteries please??
The house batteries power everything in the RV that runs on 12V. If you turn ON the inverter, the inverter takes the 12V power from the house batteries and converts it 120V to some of the outlets in the house. BTW...I rarely use my inverter unless I'm boon docking. The chassis battery powers everything on the chassis. In most cases like....starting the engine, the slides and usually the power steps.
@@RVstreet Thank you very, very much!!
Another great video! I do have a different question for you however. 2 part question. Does your RV have decals? If so when using a dual action polisher can you polish over decals without ruining them? If so rpm max do you suggest? Any info would be greatly appreciated!
Yes my RV has Vinyl Graphics and yes I polish over them with my DA polisher usually set at about 5200 rpms or so. The polish is actually good for them. It removes accumulated grime, conditions them and makes them shine again. Once I complete polishing a side of the RV, I protect everything with RejeX. Sun is what destroys the graphics so RejeX protects from UV rays.
You might want to watch this video that explains the process I use: th-cam.com/video/ewXghIetIw4/w-d-xo.html
Here's all my videos: th-cam.com/users/RVstreetplaylists
Hi! Very helpful video! I have a question that may be related....I have #4 6volt Trojan house batteries that need to be replaced. Can I replace them with 2 12 volts? Thanks in advance!
thx Geo,
Yes you could but I don't know why you'd do that. Your batt bay is already wired up for the 6v batts and if you switch out, your usable amp hrs would be greatly reduced. If you ever get into a situation where you need your batteries for an extended period of time-think grid down, all types of different emergencies, very cold temps etc-you'll really wish you had those 4 - 6V batt's again. If it's the money you're trying to save, the difference of cost is only about $300 and that cost would be spread out over several years of usage.
And don't be fooled by seeing 12v batts rated as "DEEP CYCLE BATT'S". They are nothing like the true Deep Cycle 6v Trojans you have now.
I had 2 - 12v batts when I first bought this coach years ago. Changing them over to 6v batt's was one of the first things I did.
To put it another way, if this was my set up I would NOT go to 12V batts of any kind.
Thanks for the reply and your thoughts!
Good stuff
Hi Martin, I hope this message finds you feeling better and optimistic about the future. If you might remember, I determined that the alternator was not charging the house batteries of our 1994 Fleetwood Flair on the Chevy P30 chassis, only the chassis battery was being charged. I ordered 2 replacement solonoids (through your Amazon store), and just finished installing them. Unfortunately, the situation has not changed. The alternator is still not charging the house batteries. I didn't see any other relays to replace, as you did in your video. Do you have any other suggestions as to a correction for this problem?
I'm broken hearted to say Martin passed away April 2nd. I will be keeping up the channel but I don't have knowledge of technical things so I'm unable to answer your questions. Sorry
@@RVstreet OMG Joanie...I am also broken hearted over the news...this happened so suddenly...I really loved his personality and humor...please accept my sincerest condolences for your loss from a member of your extended internet family
So I bought the weboost through your store. I am clueless as to how to run the outside antenna wire into the coach. Any suggestion greatly appreciated!! Thanks.
Hi Trav,
Well, weBoost does have several suggestions on their website. It just depends on the type of rig you have. For me, I mounted my outside antenna on the top of my rear ladder, ran the coax down the seam of the back cap and into my wet bay where I have a coax mounting plate for cable TV. So I screwed the out side antenna cable there. And then from the mounting plate another coax cable runs thru the RV all the way to the cabinets up front in the cabin area where there is another cable TV coax plate and there I ran the second coax cable and installed the rest of the unit including the interior antenna. You're just going to have to be creative. Every RV is going to be different. But take your time, think it thru and I'm confident you'll find a good solution for your set up. Once installed, you're really going to like how it performs.
BTW....thank you so much for using our Amazon Store to help support us. It means a lot 🙏
Could you write the link to Boondocker battery monitor and charging ggauge you showed in the beginning? Thanks
It's in my Amazon Store in the "Everything Electrical" category.
It's the exact one I have installed except it doesn't have the Bookdocker logo on it.
www.amazon.com/shop/rvstreet
I am going to let my wife know about using your Amazon store to buy her items. I expect you will become very rich from the credits you will receive from her transactions. Now, where do I find the link? I looked 'up there', and 'over there' but can't seem to find the darn thing! Oh, and thanks for your time/effort making these videos......you should make a bloopers video sometime.
Thanks so much Larry 🙏
My Store: www.amazon.com/shop/rvstreet
Since you're having difficulty finding links and navigating youtube in general, watch this video I did. It will make your experience much better: th-cam.com/video/bprAsHO7-F8/w-d-xo.html
All my videos: th-cam.com/users/RVstreetplaylists
Bloopers huh? Watch this video: th-cam.com/video/b0ErOaLNows/w-d-xo.html
OR....this one: th-cam.com/video/47F5hhWMu5w/w-d-xo.html
I'm having the opposite problem... Plugged into shore power, my house batteries charge, but not my chassis batteries. I have to run my generator for 15 minutes every week to charge them. Same part failed? Isolator relay? According to my owner's manual, my float charger is supposed to charge the house batteries until their full, then switch to charging the chassis batteries, then switch back. 2007 Beaver Contessa DP.
FYI : #1 . In an electrical fire if you disconnect the ground wire it will speed up the short / fire..so disconnect the positive wire first in an electrical short.
#2. You can purchase nomex arm protectors from the parts store that will protect you from anything "hot"
Great information, thank you for sharing! 👍
Boy i sure could use some help. 1994 tiffin allegro 26'. I cant find a wiring diagram anywhere...do you have any recommendations?
RVstreet
• 1 second ago
I'm heartbroken to say Martin passed away last month🥲
@@RVstreet no way...that totally sucks. I'm SOOOO sorry...
Thanks great job god bless
Test mine tomorrow.... quit charging after a warranty fuel tank replacement at Dealer. Don't see any obvious grounds loose.
I'm sad to say that Martin has passed away from cancer and I am don't have any knowledge in this area. Sorry