Mate, that was a well researched and presented video that clearly explained everything that's needed to know. I had a ZD30 Patrol years ago and loved it with no issues whatsoever.
I have a zd30 commonrail with 235k. Only major issue iv had in my 70k of ownership was injectors at 200k. As soon as I brought mine I did egr block, catch can and 3 inch exhaust. I now have a custom remap with a gfb boost controller and she seems healthy as.
This is exactly what to do to keep em from blowing, great vid. Oil change every 5000 and turn your Dawes back to around 15PSI limit and they'll love your forever.
I worked for a Nissan dealer when the ZD30 first came out. The first few we pulled apart and rebuilt under warranty. After that we could hardly keep up and Nissan just sent out crate motors. One thing that was common was the oil sprayer coming apart under the piston causing piston crown overheating. In forty years in the trade I don't think I can name a less reliable engine.
@@neilcheetham5663 4JX1 was a close second. The difference being that it only had one common failure point, the injector sleeve seals. And if caught early enough could be repaired and the engine would remain fairly reliable. ZD30 was just a disaster.
Thanks for your help, just bought myself a 2000 Gu with a zd, good enough deal that it didn't matter what motor was in it but will try and keep it going as long as I can
great video, thanks a lot for this. I run a 2013 y61 patrol with the ZD30 engine. Since I live in Sri Lanka, all the models that came here do not have the EGR (re-circulation) system. I think factory has not fitted it since we have lower emission standards and to give a better reliability on the engine. A blessing for sure. so hoping the catch can solve the rest of the issues and probably the after market intercooler will keep me going for some time.
Great video, i've owned a zd30 however i feel one issue that you didn't mention was that the ZD30 tends to crack heads rather than head gaskets as a result of glow plugs staying on for too long as they almost always crack around these ports. Also coupled with non-steel tipped glow plugs which break and get jammed between pistons/valves.
Thanks for your reply. You are right mate. A friend of mine insists on cutting in a switch for the glow plug wire because it stays on too long, particularly here in Australia where the temperature does not require it. I did not include this in the video but it definitely is something I would consider if you live in a warmer climate.
Always had cruisers but still knew about the zd30 grenade stories I am now 4wdless and looking at a zd30 patrol because it’s cheaper i price compared to others with solid offroad credentials but the motor I was unsure
First thing I did on my 2002 Patrol was needle & dawes with gauges. Shortly after, it was intercooler, catch can, egr plate, exhaust and intake improvement. I put water methanol on mine which also gets rid of carbon. I've put an additional 60k on the clocks without issue. It's been a brilliant motor, and yes I've used it to tow some heavy loads.
Wasn't the ZD30 problems fixed in the 2005 model? According to Wikipedia: "For the 2005 model year a significant facelift model was released, with new headlights, box flares on each guard and larger tail lights. The troubles that plagued the ZD30 diesel around the variable turbo geometry were resolved by this refresh."
I noticed alot of patrol don't have the wind dam (plastic bash plate) thing at the front that most people rip off when they offroad, thing that goes from back of the bumper and covers the drag link and steering damper. That's there for aero not protection. Not having that can cause over heating believe it or not
That's quite true, I've got a 2005 gu 4.2tdi, it doesn't overheat like some do, because I've replaced the plastic wind dam with a 5mm thick piece of aluminium checkerplate piece which is slightly wider than the plastic piece. Keeping the rubber dams on the side of the engine bay is also essential.
Thanks Unfastened! Im planning to buy a 2013 Y61 ZD30 in Colombia but first I need to confirm if in order to be able to properly use a 3" aftermarket welded intercooler I need to tune the ECU testing the car on a dyno... (that means 1) finding a dyno and 2) find a workshop that tunes Patrol ECU's here in Colombia). Here, comparable year LC200's are double the price after the pandemic. Thank everyone
THE blocking off of the EGR is NO LONGER illegal in Australia after in 2009, Mitsubishi held meetings with the Australian EPA and displayed and showed them that the emissions tests that they had conducted on many diesel vehicles that have NOT had an egr block, where that after approx 150,000kms, 'city use' the diesel motors emitted a 30 to 50,% higher and more poisonous exhaust gases due to the intake manifold of an EGR had becoming that much blocked from the system that it impeded the natural airflow into the diesel combustion engine, reducing the proper flow of air and the complete burning of the gases which involves more build up of the contaminant, causing an even lesser burn of the gases while at the same time dispersing a significant more higher toxic gas than engines without the EGR system in place. The only way to prevent this from occurring whilst keeping the EGR system in place was to force owners of all diesels to have their engine intakes cleaned of the black polish 'Goo' (which was the sooty sticky carbon matter that when burnt under high temperature emitted the extreme poisonous gases,) and then make it law that all vehicles with egr must have it cleaned so as the engine doesn't get to the same state so as to therefore producing these toxins. Prior to this being made a law, this meant that beforehand, significant testing would have need to be fulfilled and done on ALL AND EVERY OTHER single brand and model diesel engine with a similar EGR in place before it could be decided which engines emitted the worst and which ones were satisfactory, at what kilometres needed to be cleaned and how they would police it with off-road and four-wheel drive vehicles having a large majority of these such engines many are spread all around the country as well as inland and the rate of them having to undertake this such action would have not be able to cope therefore the second study showed that with new model common rail diesels the emissions pass through diesels were burnt more cleanly due to the induction system nowhere near as much as previously thought therefore the law then allowed for Mitsubishi and all other companies manufacturing in Australia in non-commercial vehicles such as passenger and four-wheel drive to disconnect or block the old style EGR system. After this change was implemented discussion then went into place on how they could rectify the problem which was then moved towards I found more simplistic outcome which is the reason after this occurred a simpler more easier method that would not need cleaning in the future was introduced which was the introduction of 'AdBlue' or urea to commercial vehicles such as several four-wheel drives and trucks so as to reduce emissions. Since this time and after further testing The ADblue system has now been removed from most diesel four-wheel drive vehicles and several large trucks due to the fact that there was NO significant difference between engines with and without using the urea system and it only came down to the same results happening although it was just at a later duration of burning the gases and therefore they needed a more simpler approach to lower the emissions. It was then that petroleum companies chose and moved towards the leaning out such diesel fuels to provide a more cleaner burn closer to that of using LPG and even lower by the petroleum companies adding less detergents to diesel fuel. This in the long run was a lot more expensive although now has become less expensive as petroleum companies now use the oil removed from diesel for use in other type fuels. Due to the cleaner burning diesel fuel there are far less contaminants going into an engine therefore less poisons going out into the air. Mitsubishi has a nationally issued letter two manufacturers from the EPA somewhere stating about the permission to block or now to program out / delete the AEGR systems can now be undertaken. In addition to this ZD30 CRD engines after having the EGR blocked or deleted through programming, implementing the 'SWIRL' mode to the engine, removing intake tube mesh screens and redirecting all of the the other spent gases into a catch can (or other means) significantly prevents the engines from failure. It is also highly recommended that the use of synthetic 10/40 oil only be used in the engines which made a significant change to the engine performance in hot weather.
im looking at buying my first car in the next few months and patrols are high on my list. im hesitant whether to look at a zd30 due to their reputation but they're so common on marketplace compared to the rd28 and of course the td42 which are overpriced. just want to make sure if the old zd is reliable so that i wont have to pour heaps of money into it to ensure it doesnt blow up on me. could someone help me?
I'm doing it tommorrow, zd30 ddi 2003 series 3, st-l. Very nice and almost brand new but 305,000kms. I'm going to baby it and see if I can get it to 400,000 and if not, rebuild it. Or barra or LS swap it once it is too expensive to fix.
We still have the Nissan patrol for the 2021 models the 4 door and even the 2 door version still available here from the dealerships in Saudi Arabia check this beautiful 2021 with the new look with the legendary 4.8 gas 6i monster engine look it up in youtube
im getting a 2001 TD42 but im having a hard time on finding information about the partos its all a mess there are a ton of them and i cant find to understand the differences
Great video, very informative and well delivered. Quick question any recommendations on where to get parts I noticed in the video you said upgrades could be completed for under $2k, not sure if it’s just increase in cost in the last year or not but I can’t seem to price the parts listed for under $3k. Any advice would be greatly appreciated 🤙🏻 keep up the good work.
@@Unfastened thanks appreciate it. Also are you familiar with honda crvs? I also have my eye on one with 256k miles. Popular belief are that crvs are bulletproof but what are your two cents on this?
I bought my TD42 GQ with 600+ km. It's about a million now. No dramas. The difference between TD42 and others is 200k is never "dangerous territory" for td42s..of course check engine compression (remove oil cap running check for exessive blow, same with radiator COLD thought, check for bubbles in radiator cap)
@@alphadawg7360 crvs are good. Obviously NOT a real offroader. It's a city car for sure. But I'd say all Honda's are reliable and we'll built. I've had several civics, accords, and integras. Do research on checking engine excessive oil blow-by and headgasket check through running it cold with radiator cap off and coolant tipped up checking for bubbles (should be none, otherwise engine is blowing compression through cracked headgasket and into cooling system, radiator)
Not necessarily. The early versions of both tended to present the most issues. Early Di's were under-oiled and couldn't manage boost properly. I believe the pistons were of a lower quality too. Early CRD's could still melt pistons with patchy fuelling, wouldn't tolerate chipping or other mods, blew turbos etc. The updated versions of both tended to be better. In theory the updated Di engines were the least highly strung.
@@Unfastened yeah true, and understood. But I’m nervous about the ZD30 engine with so much noise about them. It looks like this patrol has had an easy life. So I was thinking if the price is good say 8k then I could throw a couple grand at it to help her breathe and keep cool, and it might be ok? I dunno. Decisions decisions!
Nice vid with plenty of facts however, there are some other bits that are tainted. - 3rd and 4th pistons were not just caused by oiling issues. The pistons get hot, oil is squirted on bottom of piston but this is not the cause, EGR and associated swirl system are the root cause. Back cylinders starve of clean air compared to front pots and suffer way higher EGT's. Carbon build-up is a byproduct of poor airflow compared to front pots. - Oil leaks on boost side of the intake system are just poor seals and the lack of a good catch-can. Not always signs of a boost leak. - Your description of a Dawes valve is also wrong. It provides a pop-point as the boost level increases and the needle valve is the controlled leak to reduce rate of actuator response. - EGT limits you mention are extremely dependant on the quality of the guage and sensor as well as where the probe is placed. Post-turbo is a lot cooler the pre-turbo. - Catch-can, there is no better unit than a Pro-Vent 200. HPD seen here is pretty much for looks with very low performance. 1- 2.75-3" Turbo back exhaust. CAT convertor does not add much restriction but does add more heat in engine bay. Wrap the dump pipe and use a turbo beanie. 2- Fit a good quality set of Boost and EGT guages. Avoid Petrol engine guages. 3- Fit a 16PSI boost controlled actuator with boost reference as close to the turbo as possible, front of intercooler with reverse flow is fine. Get rid of the ideas of messy, complicated and time-consuming Dawes/Tillix junk. 16PSI is safe on factory snail without pushing it too far out the window. 20PSI way too high for factory huffer and results in very high drive pressures, high boost side temps and good chance of dead snail. 4- Block the EGR at BOTH sides, at intake manifold and the exhaust manifold, bin the cross pipe. Those who know turbos enough will know why I have said this. 5- A large, welded intercooler with reverse flow piping makes for simple, neat and effective upgrade. Fan is a must for top-mount crap. FMIC is the best and will out-perform ANY top-mount turd. 6- Provent 200 Catch-can, ignore any other brand/product. 7- HPR 15W50 semi-synth oil @ 10K intervals. 8- K&N filter does out-perform the factory paper crap, is washable in the field and removes fine dust better. Paper are throw-away only! No, the MAF is fine and only has issues for people who over oil them. Now enjoy a good, strong performer. I run a FMIC @ 16PSI (down from 18PSI and large top-mount) and sitting on over 405,000 K's, fuel burn is 10.2L per 100 on 35" tyres (I have fitted correct speed sender cog for dead acurate speedo). Not bad for a old Di.
@@jon-paulhobbs8850 Was using a eBay positive boost actuator (Mamba style from Diesel Smart) but then did a silly thing and swapped to a TurboSmart but fark-me, what a turd product for the ZD30. Wrong spring pressure claims and piss-poor support from TS, extended a middle finger to them. Funny, try contacting Diesel Smart to see if they had stock, same BS of "Leave a Message and we will never get back to you" Don't buy 20PSI kits, they all overboost too far and control is crap. 16PSI is a good spot for the ZD30 that has the supporting mods.
The patrol y61 is my dream car. But I hate it so much that the 3L is the only one available in the used market in europe i WANT the 4.8L petrol! I dont want any turbos to blow up and i HATE diesel since tax is so high in my country. Now Im forced to EXPENSIVELY import from the middle east.
For the DI, the delete kit is just a blanking plate and then requires you to turn off EGR in the ECU at your own cost($$). For the CRD, you can get the 'loom' type delete. I like the blanking plate because no engine lights, and its way cheaper and to me it seems just as effective
What would be the price list for your 7 mods and the glow plug mod? If you know 🙂 Is the less than $2K still correct as far as you know? Seems like a sound investment to me
As a 48 yo mechanic who has over 30 years in the trade and worked for Nissan do not ever buy a ZD30 powered vehicle you cannot polish a TURD it will cost you a fortune! I would rate the zd30 as the worst engine on the planet PERIOD !
Yeah I love the RD28, mine leaked a bit of oil here and there but overall good engine. Perhaps undersized for a 3 tonne car especially if it is towing though.
@@Unfastened I agree, but if they used it as a platform to upgrade upon (instead of using another company to build their engine) they could have a DOHC, Direct injected head straight on it, based on the RB design in an iron block. Crazy why they didnt give it a crack!
My two bobs worth. I had a 4JX3 3L turbo Jackaroo that we were to replace with a TD42 Y61 Patrol as they have a good reputation. What a gutless piece of overheating shit it was, on a hill wouldn't pull away from stop with caravan in tow. Never took it off road as I could tell I wouldn't be keeping it, so wanted to present well for resale, ownership was a whole 6 weeks. So, next truck was what I thought would be the ultimate 4X4, a 4.5 V8 76 series. It was also a piece of crap. Only good thing, a motor that didn't get hot towing, but vehicle wandered all over the road, caravan determined direction, not the steering wheel. Off road lifted wheels continuously, I had front/rear diff locks fortunately as without them it was totally useless. So back to the Jackaroo, far more capable off roader than the 76, (jackaroo just had a real good LSD in the rear) and it had far more torque/power than the TD42 Patrol. Now I had to really update from the Jackaroo and since both reputable 4X4 where crap I had to think long and hard. 2016, The last of the Y61 was in production but only available in ZD30 CRD. Well reluctantly I elected to test drive one. Wow, it was far superior to the gutless TD42, comfortable and handled, something the 76 series didn't have or offer, so we put our money down, had a Federal compliant GVM upgrade, and now has 85000 klms on it lugging 1 tonne continuously every one of those klms. Tows van marginally better than the Jackaroo and runs rings around the TD42 & 76 4.5V8. Bag the ZD30 CRD out if you wish, but far better motor than reputation has it. Yes, I have had a warped exhaust manifold @72000 klms that was truly disappointing but all motors have issues if worked as mine is. I'm about to have a ECU tune as this motor is capable of producing reliable power, so why not take advantage of it. Just my two bobs worth through true experience. NB. When I queried my mates that recommended the TD42. Response, yes they're a slug but reliable, WTF. No power house but has lovely flat torque band. WTF. When towing, Yes we go back to low range to pull away on hills, once moving sneek thru to 2 high again. WTF. My Isuzu powered Jackaroo shit all over the TD42 for power, pulled away on hills fine whilst towing and delivered far more torque lower in rpm range. The TD42 is a over rated, overheating, over priced heap of shit. Mine and others experiences, read owners comments above.
Dont know about any one else but mine zd30ddti has put a hole in no2 and cracked no3 piston little bit of carbon in the front intake tube and oil in air intake tube
@@darcykeddell4930 I have a di remaped 125hp 401nm std turbo injectors ebay intercooler tilix at least unopened bottom end I believe As I have only had it since 248k now at 335k so don't tell me to jog on as I garente mine will make it to at least 450k
Mate, your the bloke I need when buying a patrol
Mate, that was a well researched and presented video that clearly explained everything that's needed to know.
I had a ZD30 Patrol years ago and loved it with no issues whatsoever.
Thank you.
I have a zd30 commonrail with 235k. Only major issue iv had in my 70k of ownership was injectors at 200k. As soon as I brought mine I did egr block, catch can and 3 inch exhaust. I now have a custom remap with a gfb boost controller and she seems healthy as.
This is exactly what to do to keep em from blowing, great vid. Oil change every 5000 and turn your Dawes back to around 15PSI limit and they'll love your forever.
I worked for a Nissan dealer when the ZD30 first came out. The first few we pulled apart and rebuilt under warranty. After that we could hardly keep up and Nissan just sent out crate motors. One thing that was common was the oil sprayer coming apart under the piston causing piston crown overheating. In forty years in the trade I don't think I can name a less reliable engine.
4JX1.
@@neilcheetham5663 4JX1 was a close second. The difference being that it only had one common failure point, the injector sleeve seals. And if caught early enough could be repaired and the engine would remain fairly reliable. ZD30 was just a disaster.
@@philelliott5327 and Oil pressure issues (ORPS) - I guess we've both had different experiences with both motors
@@DMSVICAU ZD30 issues related to the driver? You should have told Nissan that years ago, they could have saved billions in warranty claims.😂
When you worked at Nissan what was more unreliable the zd30 patrol or yd25 navara?
Good video. I've been getting some unwanted attention from people saying my ZD30 engine is trash.
Thanks for your help, just bought myself a 2000 Gu with a zd, good enough deal that it didn't matter what motor was in it but will try and keep it going as long as I can
great video, thanks a lot for this. I run a 2013 y61 patrol with the ZD30 engine. Since I live in Sri Lanka, all the models that came here do not have the EGR (re-circulation) system. I think factory has not fitted it since we have lower emission standards and to give a better reliability on the engine. A blessing for sure. so hoping the catch can solve the rest of the issues and probably the after market intercooler will keep me going for some time.
Great video, i've owned a zd30 however i feel one issue that you didn't mention was that the ZD30 tends to crack heads rather than head gaskets as a result of glow plugs staying on for too long as they almost always crack around these ports. Also coupled with non-steel tipped glow plugs which break and get jammed between pistons/valves.
Thanks for your reply. You are right mate. A friend of mine insists on cutting in a switch for the glow plug wire because it stays on too long, particularly here in Australia where the temperature does not require it. I did not include this in the video but it definitely is something I would consider if you live in a warmer climate.
Is this more a top end of Australia problem or in Victoria and Tasmania too?
Always had cruisers but still knew about the zd30 grenade stories I am now 4wdless and looking at a zd30 patrol because it’s cheaper i price compared to others with solid offroad credentials but the motor I was unsure
Thanks mate this was really informative 🙌🏽 Nissan Patrols for life.
First thing I did on my 2002 Patrol was needle & dawes with gauges. Shortly after, it was intercooler, catch can, egr plate, exhaust and intake improvement. I put water methanol on mine which also gets rid of carbon. I've put an additional 60k on the clocks without issue. It's been a brilliant motor, and yes I've used it to tow some heavy loads.
Water methanol sounds interesting. Got / seen any videos on the installation process?
@@Unfastened Did not film install, but been meaning to do an update talking about it. Fairly straightforward to install TBH.
Wasn't the ZD30 problems fixed in the 2005 model?
According to Wikipedia:
"For the 2005 model year a significant facelift model was released, with new headlights, box flares on each guard and larger tail lights. The troubles that plagued the ZD30 diesel around the variable turbo geometry were resolved by this refresh."
Great video. I have all those mods done to my patrol. Plus more. The remap has helped the zd30 a lot
Nice one. Did the remap affect fuel consumption (for better or worse?)
@@Unfastened fuel consumption is better now after the remap
Thank you very much for that mate. Very well worded for someone like me with very little car knowledge, but an owner of a ZD30. Appreciate it!
No worries. Thanks for watching
I noticed alot of patrol don't have the wind dam (plastic bash plate) thing at the front that most people rip off when they offroad, thing that goes from back of the bumper and covers the drag link and steering damper. That's there for aero not protection. Not having that can cause over heating believe it or not
That's quite true, I've got a 2005 gu 4.2tdi, it doesn't overheat like some do, because I've replaced the plastic wind dam with a 5mm thick piece of aluminium checkerplate piece which is slightly wider than the plastic piece. Keeping the rubber dams on the side of the engine bay is also essential.
Thanks Unfastened! Im planning to buy a 2013 Y61 ZD30 in Colombia but first I need to confirm if in order to be able to properly use a 3" aftermarket welded intercooler I need to tune the ECU testing the car on a dyno... (that means 1) finding a dyno and 2) find a workshop that tunes Patrol ECU's here in Colombia). Here, comparable year LC200's are double the price after the pandemic. Thank everyone
If you just replace the stock intercooler with a larger unit and leave it top mounted, you shouldn't need to retune the car. Have fun 4x4ing.
Great video Tim, like a documentary with learning aspects, I think it will do really well!
what’s the difference between the engine in a zd30 navara and a zd30 patrol?
Nav doesn't have an intercooler and a few other small things are different
Yep good on ya mate, I already had all bar the Dawes valve on my list for the new (2nd hand) pooptroll I just bought.
Could you do a vid for td42 ti engine and td42 conversion tips aswell
Very informative and well presented … thank you
THE blocking off of the EGR is NO LONGER illegal in Australia after in 2009, Mitsubishi held meetings with the Australian EPA and displayed and showed them that the emissions tests that they had conducted on many diesel vehicles that have NOT had an egr block, where that after approx 150,000kms, 'city use' the diesel motors emitted a 30 to 50,% higher and more poisonous exhaust gases due to the intake manifold of an EGR had becoming that much blocked from the system that it impeded the natural airflow into the diesel combustion engine, reducing the proper flow of air and the complete burning of the gases which involves more build up of the contaminant, causing an even lesser burn of the gases while at the same time dispersing a significant more higher toxic gas than engines without the EGR system in place.
The only way to prevent this from occurring whilst keeping the EGR system in place was to force owners of all diesels to have their engine intakes cleaned of the black polish 'Goo' (which was the sooty sticky carbon matter that when burnt under high temperature emitted the extreme poisonous gases,) and then make it law that all vehicles with egr must have it cleaned so as the engine doesn't get to the same state so as to therefore producing these toxins. Prior to this being made a law, this meant that beforehand, significant testing would have need to be fulfilled and done on ALL AND EVERY OTHER single brand and model diesel engine with a similar EGR in place before it could be decided which engines emitted the worst and which ones were satisfactory, at what kilometres needed to be cleaned and how they would police it with off-road and four-wheel drive vehicles having a large majority of these such engines many are spread all around the country as well as inland and the rate of them having to undertake this such action would have not be able to cope therefore the second study showed that with new model common rail diesels the emissions pass through diesels were burnt more cleanly due to the induction system nowhere near as much as previously thought therefore the law then allowed for Mitsubishi and all other companies manufacturing in Australia in non-commercial vehicles such as passenger and four-wheel drive to disconnect or block the old style EGR system.
After this change was implemented discussion then went into place on how they could rectify the problem which was then moved towards I found more simplistic outcome which is the reason after this occurred a simpler more easier method that would not need cleaning in the future was introduced which was the introduction of 'AdBlue' or urea to commercial vehicles such as several four-wheel drives and trucks so as to reduce emissions. Since this time and after further testing The ADblue system has now been removed from most diesel four-wheel drive vehicles and several large trucks due to the fact that there was NO significant difference between engines with and without using the urea system and it only came down to the same results happening although it was just at a later duration of burning the gases and therefore they needed a more simpler approach to lower the emissions.
It was then that petroleum companies chose and moved towards the leaning out such diesel fuels to provide a more cleaner burn closer to that of using LPG and even lower by the petroleum companies adding less detergents to diesel fuel. This in the long run was a lot more expensive although now has become less expensive as petroleum companies now use the oil removed from diesel for use in other type fuels. Due to the cleaner burning diesel fuel there are far less contaminants going into an engine therefore less poisons going out into the air.
Mitsubishi has a nationally issued letter two manufacturers from the EPA somewhere stating about the permission to block or now to program out / delete the AEGR systems can now be undertaken.
In addition to this ZD30 CRD engines after having the EGR blocked or deleted through programming, implementing the 'SWIRL' mode to the engine, removing intake tube mesh screens and redirecting all of the the other spent gases into a catch can (or other means) significantly prevents the engines from failure. It is also highly recommended that the use of synthetic 10/40 oil only be used in the engines which made a significant change to the engine performance in hot weather.
Mate … absolute GOLD info !!! love your work … Regards 🙏
Gotta luv the 79 series in the background of some of those shots.
Thanks for the info mate. Looking at a ZD30 powered 2012 cab chassis patrol as a work rig and this video has helped heaps!
How’d you go?
@@ZX6R-w6y got a 2012 Triton with the 2.5l diesel instead
@@user-ve9cs7ee6x oh nice,cheers for the reply mate was curious 2 years later 😂
Any idea where u can obtain those nissan learning academy manuals from. u showed an image of one.
I'm wondering if a GU three litre 2002 has the same air intake as a 2006 model
im looking at buying my first car in the next few months and patrols are high on my list. im hesitant whether to look at a zd30 due to their reputation but they're so common on marketplace compared to the rd28 and of course the td42 which are overpriced. just want to make sure if the old zd is reliable so that i wont have to pour heaps of money into it to ensure it doesnt blow up on me. could someone help me?
I'm doing it tommorrow, zd30 ddi 2003 series 3, st-l. Very nice and almost brand new but 305,000kms. I'm going to baby it and see if I can get it to 400,000 and if not, rebuild it. Or barra or LS swap it once it is too expensive to fix.
Also a first car for me.
thank you so extremely much for this video bro well worth every second
We still have the Nissan patrol for the 2021 models the 4 door and even the 2 door version still available here from the dealerships in Saudi Arabia check this beautiful 2021 with the new look with the legendary 4.8 gas 6i monster engine look it up in youtube
th-cam.com/video/TBrOXD4aAsg/w-d-xo.html Ahhhhh the super safari! So beautiful
Helped me heaps mate thank you for the expertise
Can you put a 2002 intercooler gu st three litre model on a 2006 model
Great video mate, thanks
Are all the problems of ZD30 still present in the ZD30 CRDI version? Thank you
They’re less common with the common rails and have less over boosting issues
@@ethanfrawley2889 ok so it can still happen but the probability is lower. Nissan was not able to solve this 100%. Thanks for the feedback.
No
4:00 buy series 3 and onwards to avoid oil supply issue on cylinders 3+4
Yeah mate i think you are right there
im getting a 2001 TD42 but im having a hard time on finding information about the partos its all a mess there are a ton of them and i cant find to understand the differences
20 years of production will do that
@@FJaypewpew bought it yesterday, this is a tank
@@carlospennav SICK, enjoy dude
patrol4x4 forum will tell you everything you need to know
Great video mate, really well presented
Glad you enjoyed it
Do these issues apply to the zd30 engine when installed in the Navara D22?
Great video, very informative and well delivered. Quick question any recommendations on where to get parts I noticed in the video you said upgrades could be completed for under $2k, not sure if it’s just increase in cost in the last year or not but I can’t seem to price the parts listed for under $3k. Any advice would be greatly appreciated 🤙🏻 keep up the good work.
Step one to the guide to the zd30, do a cummins or td42 swap
A well presented video.
Good advice
Thinking of getting a 2005 3.0 turbo diesel automatic with 200+k miles on it. Should i get it? Should i not? What should i look out for?
200+ miles is dangerous territory. I would ask to see the service history, and perhaps get a mechanical inspection done on it. Good luck
@@Unfastened thanks appreciate it. Also are you familiar with honda crvs? I also have my eye on one with 256k miles. Popular belief are that crvs are bulletproof but what are your two cents on this?
I bought my TD42 GQ with 600+ km. It's about a million now. No dramas. The difference between TD42 and others is 200k is never "dangerous territory" for td42s..of course check engine compression (remove oil cap running check for exessive blow, same with radiator COLD thought, check for bubbles in radiator cap)
@@marcosarria2984 ballzy move to get a car over 600k miles
@@alphadawg7360 crvs are good. Obviously NOT a real offroader. It's a city car for sure. But I'd say all Honda's are reliable and we'll built. I've had several civics, accords, and integras. Do research on checking engine excessive oil blow-by and headgasket check through running it cold with radiator cap off and coolant tipped up checking for bubbles (should be none, otherwise engine is blowing compression through cracked headgasket and into cooling system, radiator)
do u recommend that i do this if i use this as my daily driver ?
I personally think they last longer if you do longer drives regularly. If it is shorter inner city driving, perhaps a smaller petrol car.
Is the crd more reliable than the di
yes
Not necessarily. The early versions of both tended to present the most issues.
Early Di's were under-oiled and couldn't manage boost properly. I believe the pistons were of a lower quality too.
Early CRD's could still melt pistons with patchy fuelling, wouldn't tolerate chipping or other mods, blew turbos etc.
The updated versions of both tended to be better. In theory the updated Di engines were the least highly strung.
Good video but doesnt the boost T affect the low and midrange torque?
Nah, just prevents it spiking at max boost
@@Unfastened arent you effectiely bypassing the closed loop boost control?
very informative, thanks
Gotta luv that 79 series in the background of some of those shots.
Which year is there series 3 onwards?
Thinking of getting a GU patrol 2002. 300k on the clock and looks clean. I think it’s only been used as a family car. Is 300k a risk?
300k is a risk for any car, really.
@@Unfastened yeah true, and understood. But I’m nervous about the ZD30 engine with so much noise about them.
It looks like this patrol has had an easy life. So I was thinking if the price is good say 8k then I could throw a couple grand at it to help her breathe and keep cool, and it might be ok? I dunno. Decisions decisions!
Yeah I have a 2000 GU ZD30 turbo and I think it has a fuel injector problem
Uneven idle, fuel usage and black smoke can be an indicator of if an injector / seal is no good. Good luck with the fault finding
very good video ! well done !
Nice vid with plenty of facts however, there are some other bits that are tainted.
- 3rd and 4th pistons were not just caused by oiling issues. The pistons get hot, oil is squirted on bottom of piston but this is not the cause, EGR and associated swirl system are the root cause. Back cylinders starve of clean air compared to front pots and suffer way higher EGT's. Carbon build-up is a byproduct of poor airflow compared to front pots.
- Oil leaks on boost side of the intake system are just poor seals and the lack of a good catch-can. Not always signs of a boost leak.
- Your description of a Dawes valve is also wrong. It provides a pop-point as the boost level increases and the needle valve is the controlled leak to reduce rate of actuator response.
- EGT limits you mention are extremely dependant on the quality of the guage and sensor as well as where the probe is placed. Post-turbo is a lot cooler the pre-turbo.
- Catch-can, there is no better unit than a Pro-Vent 200. HPD seen here is pretty much for looks with very low performance.
1- 2.75-3" Turbo back exhaust. CAT convertor does not add much restriction but does add more heat in engine bay. Wrap the dump pipe and use a turbo beanie.
2- Fit a good quality set of Boost and EGT guages. Avoid Petrol engine guages.
3- Fit a 16PSI boost controlled actuator with boost reference as close to the turbo as possible, front of intercooler with reverse flow is fine. Get rid of the ideas of messy, complicated and time-consuming Dawes/Tillix junk. 16PSI is safe on factory snail without pushing it too far out the window. 20PSI way too high for factory huffer and results in very high drive pressures, high boost side temps and good chance of dead snail.
4- Block the EGR at BOTH sides, at intake manifold and the exhaust manifold, bin the cross pipe. Those who know turbos enough will know why I have said this.
5- A large, welded intercooler with reverse flow piping makes for simple, neat and effective upgrade. Fan is a must for top-mount crap. FMIC is the best and will out-perform ANY top-mount turd.
6- Provent 200 Catch-can, ignore any other brand/product.
7- HPR 15W50 semi-synth oil @ 10K intervals.
8- K&N filter does out-perform the factory paper crap, is washable in the field and removes fine dust better. Paper are throw-away only! No, the MAF is fine and only has issues for people who over oil them.
Now enjoy a good, strong performer. I run a FMIC @ 16PSI (down from 18PSI and large top-mount) and sitting on over 405,000 K's, fuel burn is 10.2L per 100 on 35" tyres (I have fitted correct speed sender cog for dead acurate speedo). Not bad for a old Di.
Which actuator have you used? Keen to hear if boost controlled has been more reliable over time since you made the mod
Or get the better crd model
@@jon-paulhobbs8850 Was using a eBay positive boost actuator (Mamba style from Diesel Smart) but then did a silly thing and swapped to a TurboSmart but fark-me, what a turd product for the ZD30. Wrong spring pressure claims and piss-poor support from TS, extended a middle finger to them. Funny, try contacting Diesel Smart to see if they had stock, same BS of "Leave a Message and we will never get back to you"
Don't buy 20PSI kits, they all overboost too far and control is crap. 16PSI is a good spot for the ZD30 that has the supporting mods.
@@brianmaclennan561 and yeah, spend more coins on modding to a CRD when just going a different donk is an option.
The patrol y61 is my dream car.
But I hate it so much that the 3L is the only one available in the used market in europe i WANT the 4.8L petrol! I dont want any turbos to blow up and i HATE diesel since tax is so high in my country.
Now Im forced to EXPENSIVELY import from the middle east.
If I was in europe I would fly down to the middle east and drive a 4.8 back. What an adventure...
@@Unfastened actually that sounds.....
Awesome!!!!
Ron Moons truck is a 4.2 turbo. The best motor.
What series zd is in a 99 swb safari?
they came out in 2000
You should do this to all turbo diesels
I want ECU pinout this engine
Could you just delete the EGR instead of blanking plate? Only if it’s a car that’s used off-road of course 😉
For the DI, the delete kit is just a blanking plate and then requires you to turn off EGR in the ECU at your own cost($$). For the CRD, you can get the 'loom' type delete. I like the blanking plate because no engine lights, and its way cheaper and to me it seems just as effective
What would be the price list for your 7 mods and the glow plug mod?
If you know 🙂
Is the less than $2K still correct as far as you know?
Seems like a sound investment to me
As a 48 yo mechanic who has over 30 years in the trade and worked for Nissan do not ever buy a ZD30 powered vehicle you cannot polish a TURD it will cost you a fortune! I would rate the zd30 as the worst engine on the planet PERIOD !
The Common-rail Zd30’s are just as reliable as any other CRD on the market…
cruiser does 9,3 /100 or 8,6
Still boggles me why they didnt just build a DI head & injection system for the RD28T, would have been great!
Yeah I love the RD28, mine leaked a bit of oil here and there but overall good engine. Perhaps undersized for a 3 tonne car especially if it is towing though.
@@Unfastened I agree, but if they used it as a platform to upgrade upon (instead of using another company to build their engine) they could have a DOHC, Direct injected head straight on it, based on the RB design in an iron block. Crazy why they didnt give it a crack!
My two bobs worth.
I had a 4JX3 3L turbo Jackaroo that we were to replace with a TD42 Y61 Patrol as they have a good reputation.
What a gutless piece of overheating shit it was, on a hill wouldn't pull away from stop with caravan in tow.
Never took it off road as I could tell I wouldn't be keeping it, so wanted to present well for resale, ownership was a whole 6 weeks.
So, next truck was what I thought would be the ultimate 4X4, a 4.5 V8 76 series. It was also a piece of crap. Only good thing, a motor that didn't get hot towing, but vehicle wandered all over the road, caravan determined direction, not the steering wheel. Off road lifted wheels continuously, I had front/rear diff locks fortunately as without them it was totally useless.
So back to the Jackaroo, far more capable off roader than the 76, (jackaroo just had a real good LSD in the rear) and it had far more torque/power than the TD42 Patrol.
Now I had to really update from the Jackaroo and since both reputable 4X4 where crap I had to think long and hard.
2016, The last of the Y61 was in production but only available in ZD30 CRD. Well reluctantly I elected to test drive one.
Wow, it was far superior to the gutless TD42, comfortable and handled, something the 76 series didn't have or offer, so we put our money down, had a Federal compliant GVM upgrade, and now has 85000 klms on it lugging 1 tonne continuously every one of those klms. Tows van marginally better than the Jackaroo and runs rings around the TD42 & 76 4.5V8.
Bag the ZD30 CRD out if you wish, but far better motor than reputation has it.
Yes, I have had a warped exhaust manifold @72000 klms that was truly disappointing but all motors have issues if worked as mine is.
I'm about to have a ECU tune as this motor is capable of producing reliable power, so why not take advantage of it.
Just my two bobs worth through true experience.
NB. When I queried my mates that recommended the TD42.
Response, yes they're a slug but reliable, WTF.
No power house but has lovely flat torque band. WTF.
When towing, Yes we go back to low range to pull away on hills, once moving sneek thru to 2 high again. WTF.
My Isuzu powered Jackaroo shit all over the TD42 for power, pulled away on hills fine whilst towing and delivered far more torque lower in rpm range. The TD42 is a over rated, overheating, over priced heap of shit. Mine and others experiences, read owners comments above.
My GU `06 4.2 TDI had a 3inch exhaust and drank like a sailor ! Also slow and Gutless. A good point is it is solid and strong
Ridiculous to put a 4 cylinder for such a huge body
Dont know about any one else but mine zd30ddti has put a hole in no2 and cracked no3 piston little bit of carbon in the front intake tube and oil in air intake tube
ZED D 30. Actually
My vans a zd30 lol
Customer guideline to ZD30 is simple as "Don't buy it". That''s it, folks.
A great guide is to never buy the 3lt hand grenade or the Rd28
I love my rd28
I had a manual RD28, I loved it too :D
Just engine swap for a barra motor
Xlnt
Mate you have no idea
I'd say he has a pretty good idea, jog on champ
@@darcykeddell4930 I have a di remaped 125hp 401nm std turbo injectors ebay intercooler tilix at least unopened bottom end I believe
As I have only had it since 248k now at 335k so don't tell me to jog on as I garente mine will make it to at least 450k
@@billwienands7298 mines on 356k
@@darcykeddell4930 have you done injectors
@@billwienands7298 nah just big intercooler, 3 inch straight through exhaust and chip
Very disappointed at ZEEDEE30. This is Australia FFS, it's ZEDDEE30..
Seriously? Of all things
Step 1.. sell zd30 and put in a 6bt
Zd30 in the dictionary.underpowered shitbox
For peace of mind... TD42 is better...
And costs twice as much
Arghh kind off crd gives a Td a run for it’s money
Just get an 80
Nah, no adventure in a cruiser, it's too reliable
Don't touch a Nissan
C'mon now...
LOL what to look for when buying a patrol, look at literally anything else and don't buy a Nissan.
Shut up.