That’s pretty much what I was attempting to do here, as it’s those little things that make a difference for someone who’s actually trying to do it themselves
I had to re-wire my 77 B back in February this year. Took 3 days of lying in a puddle under the car. I replaced all 3 major looms after the reverse lights never worked and the ignition circuit burnt out. It wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. I laid the new one out and used the wiring diagrams and labelled EVERYTHING. Meant the hardest part was pushing the harness from the inside to the engine bay.
Thanks for explaining the Militaries aptitude test, I wonder how accurate it is? Did you find anybody else that scored 100% in their area but really had no clue once presented with the real thing? Do all branches have their own tests? Thanks for posting, I find your approach very calming, I guess that their must be some young and fast electricians, but no old and fast electricians, not the kind of area where speed pays but probably kills.
As far as I know the ASVAB ( armed services vocational aptitude battery ) is for all U.S. branches, but it has been more than a few years since I took it 😁
I’m rewiring two MGBs. Each car has NO WIRING HARNESS. I can not figure out where to start…. So, based upon this tutorial, could I proceed to 1. put the firewall fresh air vents in first, 2. then fish the wiring harness through from the cabin to the engine bay. 3. Then sort the front out before starting on the dash. To this end, 4. Can I cut the harnesses to make snap in connections to the dash? It would allow me to wire the dash (rebuilt gauges and switches) on the bench, mount/install it in the car, before attaching it to the powered loom.. just an idea because I’m confused by diagrams.
I would not recommend cutting the harnt. You will only invite major electrical issues and possible fire. The manufacturer would have done it to save assembly time if it was safe. The connection points , the more possibilities of corrosion and electrical problems. Just take your time and you will do just fine. If possible take pictures of an other MGB so you can compare where the wires are routed. Good luck.
my 77 has been changed and had so many electronics added by previous owner, including new modern fuse box, I can't use any wiring charts. i swear I have 3x the connectors under the dash and more terminating wires than imaginable.
I’m retiring two MGBs. Each car has NO WIRING HARNESS. I can not figure out where to start…. So, based upon this tutorial, I should proceed to put firewall fresh air vents in first, then fish the wiring harness through from the cabin to the engine bay. Then sort the front out before starting on the dash . Can I cut the harnesses to make snap in connections to the dash? It would allow me to wire the dash (rebuilt gauges and switches) on the bench, mount/install it in the car, before attaching it to the powered loom.. just an idea because I’m confused by the diagrams.
Your cars must be ‘71 and older ones as those don’t have separate dash harnesses, but those don’t have the fresh air vents unless you are dealing with a home market car. They are a little bit more of a pain to do, but not as bad as you might think. Get it in place and everything hooked up under bonnet, then do the dash last. With the steering column not bolted in place you can lay the dash face down on it (with a towel or something to prevent scratches) and either set the other side on the passenger seat, or support it with a cardboard box or the like. Then you have access to wire it up (though not terribly comfortably)
I do have one question though. The carbs have been rebuilt but I can't get the idle speed down below 1100 rpm without losing power and it back firing. Any ideas on fixing it?
Another outstanding video showing information and tips that are never covered in books or other videos on TH-cam. Thank you!
That’s pretty much what I was attempting to do here, as it’s those little things that make a difference for someone who’s actually trying to do it themselves
Outstanding video explaining the difference in each of the harnesses and it's connections.
Thank you.
I had to re-wire my 77 B back in February this year. Took 3 days of lying in a puddle under the car. I replaced all 3 major looms after the reverse lights never worked and the ignition circuit burnt out. It wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. I laid the new one out and used the wiring diagrams and labelled EVERYTHING. Meant the hardest part was pushing the harness from the inside to the engine bay.
Thank you for your great videos! They are full of information and helpful tidbits, I look forward to them every week.
Glad you like them! 👍🏻
Thanks for explaining the Militaries aptitude test, I wonder how accurate it is? Did you find anybody else that scored 100% in their area but really had no clue once presented with the real thing? Do all branches have their own tests? Thanks for posting,
I find your approach very calming, I guess that their must be some young and fast electricians, but no old and fast electricians, not the kind of area where speed pays but probably kills.
As far as I know the ASVAB ( armed services vocational aptitude battery ) is for all U.S. branches, but it has been more than a few years since I took it 😁
@@mgbgtguy Thanks for the explanation of the ASVAB test.
I’m rewiring two MGBs. Each car has NO WIRING HARNESS. I can not figure out where to start…. So, based upon this tutorial, could I proceed to 1. put the firewall fresh air vents in first, 2. then fish the wiring harness through from the cabin to the engine bay. 3. Then sort the front out before starting on the dash. To this end, 4. Can I cut the harnesses to make snap in connections to the dash? It would allow me to wire the dash (rebuilt gauges and switches) on the bench, mount/install it in the car, before attaching it to the powered loom.. just an idea because I’m confused by diagrams.
I would not recommend cutting the harnt. You will only invite major electrical issues and possible fire. The manufacturer would have done it to save assembly time if it was safe. The connection points , the more possibilities of corrosion and electrical problems. Just take your time and you will do just fine. If possible take pictures of an other MGB so you can compare where the wires are routed.
Good luck.
my 77 has been changed and had so many electronics added by previous owner, including new modern fuse box, I can't use any wiring charts. i swear I have 3x the connectors under the dash and more terminating wires than imaginable.
I’m retiring two MGBs. Each car has NO WIRING HARNESS. I can not figure out where to start…. So, based upon this tutorial, I should proceed to put firewall fresh air vents in first, then fish the wiring harness through from the cabin to the engine bay. Then sort the front out before starting on the dash . Can I cut the harnesses to make snap in connections to the dash? It would allow me to wire the dash (rebuilt gauges and switches) on the bench, mount/install it in the car, before attaching it to the powered loom.. just an idea because I’m confused by the diagrams.
Your cars must be ‘71 and older ones as those don’t have separate dash harnesses, but those don’t have the fresh air vents unless you are dealing with a home market car. They are a little bit more of a pain to do, but not as bad as you might think. Get it in place and everything hooked up under bonnet, then do the dash last.
With the steering column not bolted in place you can lay the dash face down on it (with a towel or something to prevent scratches) and either set the other side on the passenger seat, or support it with a cardboard box or the like. Then you have access to wire it up (though not terribly comfortably)
I do have one question though. The carbs have been rebuilt but I can't get the idle speed down below 1100 rpm without losing power and it back firing. Any ideas on fixing it?
Sounds like a vacume leak somewhere.