I watched this video a few months ago and I ordered a 1.8 tip right away. I just got a chance to use it today (it was all clear finished until now) and it made a huge difference. Before, I was using a 1.4 and thinning my paint far too much. Thanks for the video!
Looks great! I just picked up a harbor freight 5 stage turbine for a really good deal and mutilated some trim in my house with it😂 I was an auto body painter for 27 years and have been painting for about 38 years altogether too so……. Feeling a little defeated lol. Hvlp turbines are a different animal though and definitely require a learning curve I now see and precise tuning. I could not figure out how to decrease the fan size on this gun until after the damage was done, that was my biggest problem, plus I put it on waaaay too wet. I’m also spraying Emerald and using a 1.8 but only thinned it 5% with M1 retarder. I think the viscosity was ok though, but I just jumped right in without too much tinkering because I was anxious to get it done…( “haste makes waste” ) Worst part about is I’ve got a pile of high end spray guns that I accumulated over the years but only one or two with bigger nozzle sets. I was doing fine with them other than the excessive overspray and having to run 135ft of air hose from my garage and through the windows of my house lol🤦🏻♂️ Great video though and I feel inspired now to give it one more shot now that I realize where I went wrong. If I fail, back to conventional spraying😅
Hello! I appreciate your videos as I’m trying to learn how to paint cabinets and trim work. You mentioned you like the air pot because it allows you to hold the gun and spray at any angle. Would using the 3m pot system accomplish the same thing? Or with the heavier paint products, does the pressure pot make a big difference getting the paint to push through the gun?Thank you!
The 3m PPS system also allows you to spray upside down, as long as you get the hard plastic cup with pressure tube. Not quite as maneuverable as the Fuji pressure pot, but still a good way to go
Thanks. Watching your spraying videos, good information. New to spraying here, I have a Turbine spray system. Have you considered making a video, 'Cleaning techniques', for oil, , water based coating . Many videos out there on applying paints, lacking cleaning the systems.
Thanks Erick, I have a gun cleaning video... th-cam.com/video/05VLNaca56Q/w-d-xo.html The only difference between oil and water base would be the thinner you use. For water based paint use hot soapy water. Denatured alcohol for shellac, etc. Thanks for the suggestion.
Love the cart for your system. Do you happen to have a plan? Or could you do a short video on just the cart? I have the Q5 and have been trying to come up with something similar. Thank you.
Great video. I Make built ins a few time a year and have always been afraid of spraying shelf pin holes for fear of the pins not fitting afterwards. I'm guessing you are able to make the paint thin enough that its OK?
Great video! You make it look so easy, and the finish looks great. I see that you have a link to the Fuji Mini-Mite 4. I am wondering if you have sprayed with it and if it is adequate for the work you are doing here? Do you think SW Emerald or BM Advance would have to be thinned too much for the 4 stage turbine. I appreciate the effort you put into producing this video.
Thanks! I suppose it's a little of everything from the sprayer, to the technique, and less so the paint product. Any urethane modified paint should spray nicely (when thinned to suit your sprayer). Paint that's designed for trim and cabinets will hold up better, and look more professional than regular latex. The right aircap set makes a difference as well. Best to you.
My advice is like everything else, prep is key. You must sand the surface and use a filler to fill imperfections and sand some more. Then begin this technique.
A very useful video for a beginner like me. I noticed your cabinets do not have backs. Do you paint them separately? If they are attached to the cabinet how does this affect the order things are sprayed in and how do you avoid blowback? Thanks,
Yes, I specifically leave cabinet backs off when spraying to avoid blowback and overspray. Painting the backs separately is the way to go, if that's an option. In this case I lacquered the maple plywood back panels for a two-tone look. If the backs are already installed, you just deal with the inevitable blowback. Thanks.
Are you thinning your primer? I'm having trouble spraying primer. I have 1.8 tip with t70 Fuji Q5. All of the data sheets on all the primers i have looked at (oil and water based) says not to thin "do not reduce". How are you setting your gun for primers? Thanks for your time, very informative video.
Yes I thin water based primer until it pours through a #4 Ford viscosity cup in 45 seconds or so. Usually this means thinning about 10% with water. Good luck!
Novice to spraying cabinets: I’m using Fuji minimite4 with Fuji 2qt pressure pot and 1.8mm tip. Spraying SW emerald over SW stain block primer. Any tips on how to avoid runs in corners top corners of cabinets? I didn’t have any runs with the primer. Thanks
Hi Charles, it sounds like you have a nearly identical setup as I do. To prevent runs, decrease fluid output by turning the fluid knob clockwise. Spraying 2 light coats is usually better than one heavy coat. If you do get a run, just brush it out. It will look fine after you scuff sand and spray the second coat. Best of luck!
Great vid as always! Curious about your cleaning method for the pot... can you leave product in there for days/weeks? How do you clean the product delivery hose between the pot and gun? Thanks.
Thanks! I clean the pot after each use. Just scrub it out. I was amazed how easy it was to clean. Running warm water through the hose was enough to clean it. Best to you.
Thanks for the tips on viscosity and nozzle size. Do you have any thoughts on hvlp vs airless with a fine finish tip? My limited experience is that you don’t have to worry about thinning or needle/nozzle sizes with the airless but I haven’t painted much as I said. Cheers
An airless is quicker and you don't have to thin the paint much. Think painting a house or staining a fence. A HVLP sprays a finer finish with less overspray. You need to thin paint slightly for HVLP equipment. Either setup will require a carefully selected nozzle or air cap set for the project at hand. Thanks.
@justcruisin109, I believe you're confusing airless with air-assisted airless systems. Airless systems are not designed for, nor can they spray a high quality finish that would be acceptable for cabinets and furniture. They're designed for spraying walls, fences, and such surfaces where a somewhat rough finish is pretty much the standard. On the other hand, air-assisted airless systems (AAA) are made specifically for laying down a high quality finish on virtually any surface, and they do so very well. They are dramatically more expensive, with a decent system running you roughly $5,000 + the cost of a high-performance air compressor. And that's where turbine HVLP systems come into play; they're less than half the cost of a complete AAA system, and as Willy's so aptly demonstrated, they can lay down a pro-grade finish. I hope this helps clarify things for you.
In my experience, HVLP does not put out paint at as high a rate as airless. You have a little more time and reduced runs. It is geared for smaller jobs vs say rooms, ceilings, etc.
I see some people spraying slower, do you have your fluid nozzle almost closed or wide open?. When i spray slow like this i get runs or to much build up.
Small hooks are screwed into the edge of the door. You can paint the entire door at once. Just position the holes on top for upper doors, and on bottom for lower doors, and you'll never see them.
No I actually don't. I specifically make sure they're drilled in the top of the upper drawers and the bottom of the lower drawers, and you never see them. Thanks.
I watched this video a few months ago and I ordered a 1.8 tip right away. I just got a chance to use it today (it was all clear finished until now) and it made a huge difference. Before, I was using a 1.4 and thinning my paint far too much. Thanks for the video!
Glad it worked out!
Looks like that pressure pot is a lifesaver!
It does help with refilling less often. I also like how you can spray at any angle. Thanks
Looks great! I just picked up a harbor freight 5 stage turbine for a really good deal and mutilated some trim in my house with it😂
I was an auto body painter for 27 years and have been painting for about 38 years altogether too so……. Feeling a little defeated lol. Hvlp turbines are a different animal though and definitely require a learning curve I now see and precise tuning. I could not figure out how to decrease the fan size on this gun until after the damage was done, that was my biggest problem, plus I put it on waaaay too wet. I’m also spraying Emerald and using a 1.8 but only thinned it 5% with M1 retarder. I think the viscosity was ok though, but I just jumped right in without too much tinkering because I was anxious to get it done…( “haste makes waste” )
Worst part about is I’ve got a pile of high end spray guns that I accumulated over the years but only one or two with bigger nozzle sets. I was doing fine with them other than the excessive overspray and having to run 135ft of air hose from my garage and through the windows of my house lol🤦🏻♂️
Great video though and I feel inspired now to give it one more shot now that I realize where I went wrong. If I fail, back to conventional spraying😅
That Emerald paint is pretty thick and drys hard. I like really like it for cabinets and furniture.
Thanks. I think I like the Emerald too.
I really like the cart you made for your Fuji spray system.
Thanks! The cart has been working great.
Some techniques worth trying when painting cabinets.
Nice video. Thanks! 🙏🖖
Thanks Jay!
Hello! I appreciate your videos as I’m trying to learn how to paint cabinets and trim work. You mentioned you like the air pot because it allows you to hold the gun and spray at any angle. Would using the 3m pot system accomplish the same thing? Or with the heavier paint products, does the pressure pot make a big difference getting the paint to push through the gun?Thank you!
The 3m PPS system also allows you to spray upside down, as long as you get the hard plastic cup with pressure tube. Not quite as maneuverable as the Fuji pressure pot, but still a good way to go
Thanks. Watching your spraying videos, good information. New to spraying here, I have a Turbine spray system.
Have you considered making a video, 'Cleaning techniques', for oil, , water based coating . Many videos out there on applying paints, lacking cleaning the systems.
Thanks Erick, I have a gun cleaning video... th-cam.com/video/05VLNaca56Q/w-d-xo.html
The only difference between oil and water base would be the thinner you use. For water based paint use hot soapy water. Denatured alcohol for shellac, etc. Thanks for the suggestion.
Love the cart for your system. Do you happen to have a plan? Or could you do a short video on just the cart? I have the Q5 and have been trying to come up with something similar. Thank you.
Thanks! You can get plans for my sprayer cart in the June 2023 issue (#272) of Popular Woodworking magazine. Best of luck!
Great video. I Make built ins a few time a year and have always been afraid of spraying shelf pin holes for fear of the pins not fitting afterwards. I'm guessing you are able to make the paint thin enough that its OK?
I had the same concern. Yet after spraying with primer and two coats of paint, the 1/4" shelf pins fit perfectly. Thanks.
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker That will save me a lot of time because I have been painting before drilling and assembly. Thanks!
Let's see Graco do this.
Great video! You make it look so easy, and the finish looks great. I see that you have a link to the Fuji Mini-Mite 4. I am wondering if you have sprayed with it and if it is adequate for the work you are doing here? Do you think SW Emerald or BM Advance would have to be thinned too much for the 4 stage turbine. I appreciate the effort you put into producing this video.
Thanks Joey! I consider a 4 and 5 stage just about equal. Only 0.5 psi difference. So you will definitely be okay. Thanks!
Thank you!@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker
Great video. How many coats of primer do you recommend? Thanks.
Thanks Charles. I use one coat of primer, and two coats of paint.
Beautiful video
My question is,is getting a beautiful smooth finish dependent on the type of paint you use or your spraying technique?
Thanks! I suppose it's a little of everything from the sprayer, to the technique, and less so the paint product. Any urethane modified paint should spray nicely (when thinned to suit your sprayer). Paint that's designed for trim and cabinets will hold up better, and look more professional than regular latex. The right aircap set makes a difference as well. Best to you.
My advice is like everything else, prep is key. You must sand the surface and use a filler to fill imperfections and sand some more. Then begin this technique.
A very useful video for a beginner like me. I noticed your cabinets do not have backs. Do you paint them separately? If they are attached to the cabinet how does this affect the order things are sprayed in and how do you avoid blowback? Thanks,
Yes, I specifically leave cabinet backs off when spraying to avoid blowback and overspray. Painting the backs separately is the way to go, if that's an option. In this case I lacquered the maple plywood back panels for a two-tone look. If the backs are already installed, you just deal with the inevitable blowback. Thanks.
@@ThoughtfulReviews-b5s Thanks for the reply. Just about to start a new kitchen so I can plan based on your comments.
Are you thinning your primer? I'm having trouble spraying primer. I have 1.8 tip with t70 Fuji Q5. All of the data sheets on all the primers i have looked at (oil and water based) says not to thin "do not reduce". How are you setting your gun for primers? Thanks for your time, very informative video.
Yes I thin water based primer until it pours through a #4 Ford viscosity cup in 45 seconds or so. Usually this means thinning about 10% with water. Good luck!
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker Thank you this was my question as well. I am writing up your procedure into a word document.
Novice to spraying cabinets: I’m using Fuji minimite4 with Fuji 2qt pressure pot and 1.8mm tip. Spraying SW emerald over SW stain block primer. Any tips on how to avoid runs in corners top corners of cabinets? I didn’t have any runs with the primer. Thanks
Hi Charles, it sounds like you have a nearly identical setup as I do. To prevent runs, decrease fluid output by turning the fluid knob clockwise. Spraying 2 light coats is usually better than one heavy coat. If you do get a run, just brush it out. It will look fine after you scuff sand and spray the second coat. Best of luck!
Thanks! I will reduce flow. I think I need to be more patient :)
Great vid as always! Curious about your cleaning method for the pot... can you leave product in there for days/weeks? How do you clean the product delivery hose between the pot and gun? Thanks.
Thanks! I clean the pot after each use. Just scrub it out. I was amazed how easy it was to clean. Running warm water through the hose was enough to clean it. Best to you.
Thanks for the tips on viscosity and nozzle size. Do you have any thoughts on hvlp vs airless with a fine finish tip? My limited experience is that you don’t have to worry about thinning or needle/nozzle sizes with the airless but I haven’t painted much as I said. Cheers
An airless is quicker and you don't have to thin the paint much. Think painting a house or staining a fence. A HVLP sprays a finer finish with less overspray. You need to thin paint slightly for HVLP equipment. Either setup will require a carefully selected nozzle or air cap set for the project at hand. Thanks.
@justcruisin109, I believe you're confusing airless with air-assisted airless systems. Airless systems are not designed for, nor can they spray a high quality finish that would be acceptable for cabinets and furniture. They're designed for spraying walls, fences, and such surfaces where a somewhat rough finish is pretty much the standard. On the other hand, air-assisted airless systems (AAA) are made specifically for laying down a high quality finish on virtually any surface, and they do so very well. They are dramatically more expensive, with a decent system running you roughly $5,000 + the cost of a high-performance air compressor. And that's where turbine HVLP systems come into play; they're less than half the cost of a complete AAA system, and as Willy's so aptly demonstrated, they can lay down a pro-grade finish. I hope this helps clarify things for you.
In my experience, HVLP does not put out paint at as high a rate as airless. You have a little more time and reduced runs. It is geared for smaller jobs vs say rooms, ceilings, etc.
Question, is this your favorite cabinet paint for bathrooms and kitchens?
So far I'm happy with the Emerald Urethane Enamel, but I think several Urethane modified Enamel trim and cabinet paints could work.
Also, is it self leveling?
I see some people spraying slower, do you have your fluid nozzle almost closed or wide open?. When i spray slow like this i get runs or to much build up.
How is the coat hanger attached to the door?
Can you paint both sides without reattaching the hanger.
Small hooks are screwed into the edge of the door. You can paint the entire door at once. Just position the holes on top for upper doors, and on bottom for lower doors, and you'll never see them.
What type of strainer do you use for the paint?
Just come shaped paint strainers from Woodcraft. I get a medium size mesh for paints and a fine one for lacquer. Thanks.
How you pick up the nose
Thank you for the video. But I have a question do you thin down the primer as well? Or use straight out from can?
Yes I thinned the primer about 10 percent with water. Thanks!
Do you repair the holes in the top of the cabinet doors?
No I actually don't. I specifically make sure they're drilled in the top of the upper drawers and the bottom of the lower drawers, and you never see them. Thanks.
Which kne better for small cabinet shop airless or tribune help help pls I am using 2k poly paint
I like turbine systems better for spraying cabinets, trim or furniture... th-cam.com/video/c-_-zhJIhG0/w-d-xo.html
What brand of sanding sponges were you using?
They are Norton SoftTouch sanding sponges. I get them at Woodcraft. Best to you.