I'm really glad Sherwin-Williams put out this paint. I just added cabinets to my business and being able to pick it up locally makes things really easy. I tested Emerald Urethane on my own cabinets first and it is not something I would use on customers. Same with Benjamin Moore Advance. Now, it's just a matter of getting those cabinet jobs. Have you tried the zinsser 123 PLUS (not the regular 123) or smart prime? I emailed Rustoleum and confirmed they're pretty much the same thing. I'm using the 123 PLUS because that's locally available and it did a good job stopping tannin bleed on my test door with good adhesion and sands smooth to a powder.
Thanks for watching! I have the same experience with emerald. It's great for trim work, but not cabinets. I've been told I need to test out Renner too, so looking into that. Thanks for the tip on the primer, I'll have to try that one!
What issues did you have with Advance to stop you from using? Ive been using it and other than a 16 hr recoat time it is amazing, sprays so smooth and when cures it is rock hard & durable? Just used emerald urethane on a door, never again when cures scratches easy and does not let you wipe clean without leaving a mark.
Never sprayed with Gallery Series, but all of the waterborne General Finishes clears I've sprayed always have orange peel/texture when wet. Once they dry, they all level out very smoothly. Same with other waterborne clears I've sprayed.
I used the Gallery product on a custom made wall cabinet system 20' wide by 16' high. The customer wanted a factory feel to the paint job, but because I was painting this unit piece by piece in his garage he did not want a solvent based product. My local SW store recommended this product and it turned out great! I agree with the dry times, but each new coat will dry faster.
Interesting drying results. I’ve only used it a little but also used a Graco airless sprayer and mine dried easily within 30 minutes and was definitely sandable in 45 minutes. I’m in Arizona so perhaps the humidity (or lack thereof) is a big difference. I was actually blown away at how quickly it dried.
I'm using an HVLP and putting down 4-5 mil with 20% thin. My dry time is around 1 hour. I have an active air scrubber pulling air over the boards, though. I wouldn't trust flipping or sanding until 2+ hours. Love your videos. You show texture, points at time in drying, discuss your process. Thank you.
Just now seeing this video, but what you experienced, as far as dry time and how it sprayed with an orange peel texture, then laid down really nice, is what I experienced also. Everything I sprayed was already primed from the factory, so for better or worse, that's what I dealt with. I sprayed with my Kremlin AAA, which I've used for years. ( I used the 06/14 tip.) Like you I came from solvents to waterbased and really miss the quick dry times of solvent based lacquers. I don't miss the smell and cleanup though. I'm retired and like to mess around with the various paints and clears, Renner, ICRO, Gallery and just shot Enduro 2k. Honestly I like them all, things have come a long way in the waterborne world. Thanks for the video, and it's a shame you had problems with the Graco AAA, it's so much easier on larger jobs.
Thanks for watching and commenting! What did you think of the Renner product? I've used the GF Enduro and had too many problems. Even had their people in the shop with me to test. Thanks again!
Did you use the GF 2k? I used their dedicated sanding sealer and 2 topcoats of the 2k. I shot it with the Grace Quickshot and 308 FFLP tip. I didn’t really have any problems, though I could have used a 306 tip, but they don’t have one that I saw. I like Renner. Redid my kitchen and used Renner paint and clear. I didn’t like the distributor locally so started checking other brands. I made a maple countertop and sprayed Renner 2k clear, can’t remember the #, and it has been fantastic. 2 years now and it looks like day one, except for the normal dings a countertop has.
Thanks for watching, and glad it was helpful! My extraction is a bit of a mess, but there's a paint booth rated tube-axial fan above the spray room that vents out the roof.
@matteason989 you can just use the gallery as a primer, it is self sealing. I've tested that way and it works. If you have stains or tannins to block though you can use SW shellac primer
It does have 4550 minute driving time. It's lightly sprayed. I'm guessing that's what they're going off of. The 3 codes that they recommend that's pretty much. A primer code plus 2 finish codes. So they're still doing 3 codes, just like if they were to prime it. You're spraying it three times
I have a wood shop where I build and spray paint cabinets in my shop and then take to site for install. What do you use to touchup dried Gallery Series?
Great Video. What primer for bare wood would you recommend? I've seen Shellac primer recommend for SW Emerald Urethane. Would this also work for Gallery? What grit are you sanding between coats? Since it needs to be sprayed, what would you recommend for the cabinets that need to be rolled?
I make blanket chest and was looking for a paint that i could spray with my AAA. I thought about gallery but settled with Benjamin moore command. 15/20 minutes drying time and levels out nicely. What issues did you have with your gun? What tip were you using?
Thanks for watching! No issues with the HVLP. We've been working through upgrading to a larger pump type system and the gun we had at the time was clogging the spray tips.
does it brush or mini roll worth a crap , not looking for perfection , just decent ..... I understand "spray is best" , sometimes I just have to paint some trim or a door , or a small cabinet like a vanity , not a biggy
Great video, there is a part 2 activator for the gallery paint. I have not bought or used it but it is made by a company the Sherwin Williams bought recently Sayerlack paints that is where Gallery came from and they also have a crosslinker for it also. Caldwell Painting here on youtube has a video testing and talking about it in regards to two part paints. th-cam.com/video/Q6vOXIZXlIE/w-d-xo.html
The Sayerlack crosslinker is harder to find than hen's teeth. It is in the industrial coatings catalog for the Sher Wood EA Hydroplus waterborne to be added at 1% of a solution of 50% Crosslinker XA4081000 and 50% deionized water, so in Caldwell's example he mixes 200g Gallery with 2g Crosslinker, which is actually per SW, 1g XA4081000 and 1g deionized water. From personal experience, SW Industrial tech support will tell you that there is no crosslinker available for Gallery, so use this info at your own risk. Make note of the pot life when using the crosslinker, but with the improved drying time your spraying probably won't extend past one work day anyway, right? From the Sher Wood Hydroplus 20 PDS: For improved cure response, Sher-Wood EA Hydroplus™ Waterborne White may be catalyzed at 1% by volume with a 50/50 blend of Waterborne (aziridine) Crosslinker XA4081000 and deionized water. Stir the blend well. Additional catalyst volumes will not improve cure or performance properties. When catalyzed, the SherWood EA Hydroplus™ White Topcoat has a 24 hour pot-life www.paintdocs.com/docs/webPDF.jsp?SITEID=SWPCGWOOD&doctype=PDS&prodno=076590640681&lang=2
Have you tried Renner/Milesi? I'd like to see a better series of tests done on the finish coats. I don't think the simple scratch test with the paint opener conveyed very much information. I'd also like to know more about how they compare to hand oil damage long term. With Gallery at $125+, 2k products are looking better imo. I like the convenience of Gallery, but I don't think it's worth half-assing, or 3/4-assing. It seems like you're sacrificing the long term attraction of 2k for $50-100 + water convenience. I assume most people watching these youtube videos care more about how it looks in 5-20 years than how convenient it is to spray today, or what work volume can be pushed out.
That's a tough question to answer. This paint sprays easier than a home store latex paint for sure, but it's still not "thin". You'll need a fairly powerful unit to fully atomize the paint. I need the largest tip and needle that comes with the graco unit to get there. Only way to know for sure it to try it. Thanks for watching!
Graco, Needle #3 is 1.3, Needle #4 is 1.8. Odd they don't have a 1.5. Fuji is #3 1.3, #4 1.5, #5 1.8. I'm using a 1.5mm from Fuji. I did try a 1.3mm and that worked okay as well when Ford #4 is around 45s.
this paint isn't a sherwin williams paint its a c oumpany that bought and slapped the new label on it...another hidden thing this paint can be cross linked...will make it dry faster and harder...
I'm really glad Sherwin-Williams put out this paint. I just added cabinets to my business and being able to pick it up locally makes things really easy. I tested Emerald Urethane on my own cabinets first and it is not something I would use on customers. Same with Benjamin Moore Advance. Now, it's just a matter of getting those cabinet jobs.
Have you tried the zinsser 123 PLUS (not the regular 123) or smart prime? I emailed Rustoleum and confirmed they're pretty much the same thing. I'm using the 123 PLUS because that's locally available and it did a good job stopping tannin bleed on my test door with good adhesion and sands smooth to a powder.
Thanks for watching! I have the same experience with emerald. It's great for trim work, but not cabinets. I've been told I need to test out Renner too, so looking into that.
Thanks for the tip on the primer, I'll have to try that one!
What issues did you have with Advance to stop you from using? Ive been using it and other than a 16 hr recoat time it is amazing, sprays so smooth and when cures it is rock hard & durable? Just used emerald urethane on a door, never again when cures scratches easy and does not let you wipe clean without leaving a mark.
Never sprayed with Gallery Series, but all of the waterborne General Finishes clears I've sprayed always have orange peel/texture when wet.
Once they dry, they all level out very smoothly. Same with other waterborne clears I've sprayed.
I used the Gallery product on a custom made wall cabinet system 20' wide by 16' high. The customer wanted a factory feel to the paint job, but because I was painting this unit piece by piece in his garage he did not want a solvent based product. My local SW store recommended this product and it turned out great! I agree with the dry times, but each new coat will dry faster.
For a client that specifically doesn't want the smelly stuff this is great way to go. I'm glad it worked out!
Interesting drying results. I’ve only used it a little but also used a Graco airless sprayer and mine dried easily within 30 minutes and was definitely sandable in 45 minutes. I’m in Arizona so perhaps the humidity (or lack thereof) is a big difference. I was actually blown away at how quickly it dried.
Good to know it dries quick for someone! Thanks for watching.
I'm using an HVLP and putting down 4-5 mil with 20% thin. My dry time is around 1 hour. I have an active air scrubber pulling air over the boards, though. I wouldn't trust flipping or sanding until 2+ hours.
Love your videos. You show texture, points at time in drying, discuss your process. Thank you.
How a video should be done! Thanks for the close up!
Thanks! Glad it was helpful!
Just now seeing this video, but what you experienced, as far as dry time and how it sprayed with an orange peel texture, then laid down really nice, is what I experienced also. Everything I sprayed was already primed from the factory, so for better or worse, that's what I dealt with. I sprayed with my Kremlin AAA, which I've used for years. ( I used the 06/14 tip.) Like you I came from solvents to waterbased and really miss the quick dry times of solvent based lacquers. I don't miss the smell and cleanup though. I'm retired and like to mess around with the various paints and clears, Renner, ICRO, Gallery and just shot Enduro 2k. Honestly I like them all, things have come a long way in the waterborne world. Thanks for the video, and it's a shame you had problems with the Graco AAA, it's so much easier on larger jobs.
Thanks for watching and commenting! What did you think of the Renner product? I've used the GF Enduro and had too many problems. Even had their people in the shop with me to test. Thanks again!
Did you use the GF 2k? I used their dedicated sanding sealer and 2 topcoats of the 2k. I shot it with the Grace Quickshot and 308 FFLP tip. I didn’t really have any problems, though I could have used a 306 tip, but they don’t have one that I saw.
I like Renner. Redid my kitchen and used Renner paint and clear. I didn’t like the distributor locally so started checking other brands. I made a maple countertop and sprayed Renner 2k clear, can’t remember the #, and it has been fantastic. 2 years now and it looks like day one, except for the normal dings a countertop has.
Would love to see how your paint booth extraction works. Also, good videos and explanation on the gallery series paint.
Thanks for watching, and glad it was helpful! My extraction is a bit of a mess, but there's a paint booth rated tube-axial fan above the spray room that vents out the roof.
Thank you for doing these videos. .exactly the information I want to see. Real world usage, spray setup, results.
Thanks for watching. So glad it's helpful!
@@ChestnutRidgeWorkshop Can you recommend a primer for under? I want to stick to waterborne. I don't have a combustible proof fan.
@matteason989 you can just use the gallery as a primer, it is self sealing. I've tested that way and it works. If you have stains or tannins to block though you can use SW shellac primer
how is the hardness compared to a conversion varnish?
I am curious as to what the level of humidity is in your drying area?
All the testing I've done with this paint is been 25% to 35%. That's mostly because of the time of year here. Thanks for watching!
Have you tried a smaller tip and cranking down the fluid needle to produce a finer mist? Those looked like thick coats.
@michaelpilliod1039 I have yes. It stays too dry and won't flow out. Plus SW wants 3-5mil wet coats, so you've gotta get a lot on there
@@ChestnutRidgeWorkshop I'm putting on 4-5mil (tested with a card) and it dries quicker than yours.
@@ChestnutRidgeWorkshop Thin it.
@michaelpilliod1039 yes I have. I found that it would not flow out as well. And I was checking my wet mils, right on spec at 3-4.
@@TechExposedTV That's good!
It does have 4550 minute driving time. It's lightly sprayed. I'm guessing that's what they're going off of. The 3 codes that they recommend that's pretty much. A primer code plus 2 finish codes. So they're still doing 3 codes, just like if they were to prime it. You're spraying it three times
4 coats of any product system is usually our process anyway. Usually 2 prime and 2 color. This product can work in 3 if your careful.
I have a wood shop where I build and spray paint cabinets in my shop and then take to site for install. What do you use to touchup dried Gallery Series?
@@butchroach239 the gallery itself.
Great Video. What primer for bare wood would you recommend? I've seen Shellac primer recommend for SW Emerald Urethane. Would this also work for Gallery? What grit are you sanding between coats? Since it needs to be sprayed, what would you recommend for the cabinets that need to be rolled?
SW recommends their shellac primer. I have not used it myself, so I can't comment on it. 320-400 grit between coats.
Oh, forgot the last question....I'm not sure why you'd be rolling anything so I think I'm missing something. But, ya don't roll or brush with gallery.
@mattfowler3788 SW recommends that same shellac primer. 320 or 400 between coats. Emerald for rolling. Thus stuff is too thin. Thanks for watching!
Awesome video. What sheen do you prefer for cabinets with this product? Satin or semi. Thank you!
It comes in number gloss levels. I use 20 gloss most of the time. 10 gloss is ok, but a little too flat for me.
I make blanket chest and was looking for a paint that i could spray with my AAA. I thought about gallery but settled with Benjamin moore command.
15/20 minutes drying time and levels out nicely.
What issues did you have with your gun? What tip were you using?
Thanks for watching! No issues with the HVLP. We've been working through upgrading to a larger pump type system and the gun we had at the time was clogging the spray tips.
Great video! Were you still using the same 10% water dilution as in the first video? Thanks.
Thanks for watching! Yes same 10%. Just helps through the hvlp
@@ChestnutRidgeWorkshop Awesome! thanks for the speedy reply.
What HVLP needle and tip size do you recommend when thinning 10%?
With this Graco HVLP I use the #5 tip and needle. Works ok if you don't thin too, just a little better with the 10%. Thanks for watching!
What size tip did you use? Thank you!
I used the #5
@@ChestnutRidgeWorkshop What FFLP green tip is used? Thanks!
@@SimonWendler-k7r I did not get an FFLP tip to spray this stuff well. I can't recommend one for you because I wouldn't use that sprayer again.
@@SimonWendler-k7r Generally people recommend 208, 210, 308, 310 FF
does it brush or mini roll worth a crap , not looking for perfection , just decent ..... I understand "spray is best" , sometimes I just have to paint some trim or a door , or a small cabinet like a vanity , not a biggy
It's pretty thin, so yes, but high risk of runs/sags. I'd go emerald trim enamel if need to brush or roll
Per SW, Gallery is a spray only product. I'm curious to know what your results would be.
Great video, there is a part 2 activator for the gallery paint. I have not bought or used it but it is made by a company the Sherwin Williams bought recently Sayerlack paints that is where Gallery came from and they also have a crosslinker for it also. Caldwell Painting here on youtube has a video testing and talking about it in regards to two part paints. th-cam.com/video/Q6vOXIZXlIE/w-d-xo.html
Very interesting, thank your for letting me know! An thanks for watching!
The Sayerlack crosslinker is harder to find than hen's teeth. It is in the industrial coatings catalog for the Sher Wood EA Hydroplus waterborne to be added at 1% of a solution of 50% Crosslinker XA4081000 and 50% deionized water, so in Caldwell's example he mixes 200g Gallery with 2g Crosslinker, which is actually per SW, 1g XA4081000 and 1g deionized water. From personal experience, SW Industrial tech support will tell you that there is no crosslinker available for Gallery, so use this info at your own risk. Make note of the pot life when using the crosslinker, but with the improved drying time your spraying probably won't extend past one work day anyway, right?
From the Sher Wood Hydroplus 20 PDS:
For improved cure response, Sher-Wood
EA Hydroplus™ Waterborne White may be
catalyzed at 1% by volume with a 50/50
blend of Waterborne (aziridine) Crosslinker
XA4081000 and deionized water. Stir the
blend well. Additional catalyst volumes will
not improve cure or performance
properties.
When catalyzed, the SherWood EA Hydroplus™ White Topcoat has
a 24 hour pot-life
www.paintdocs.com/docs/webPDF.jsp?SITEID=SWPCGWOOD&doctype=PDS&prodno=076590640681&lang=2
Have you tried Renner/Milesi?
I'd like to see a better series of tests done on the finish coats. I don't think the simple scratch test with the paint opener conveyed very much information.
I'd also like to know more about how they compare to hand oil damage long term.
With Gallery at $125+, 2k products are looking better imo.
I like the convenience of Gallery, but I don't think it's worth half-assing, or 3/4-assing. It seems like you're sacrificing the long term attraction of 2k for $50-100 + water convenience. I assume most people watching these youtube videos care more about how it looks in 5-20 years than how convenient it is to spray today, or what work volume can be pushed out.
I haven't had the chance to play with those products no. Currently testing SW kemvar, their solvent 2k product. Thanks for watching!
I just bought a 50 dollar hvlp will it work with this paint
That's a tough question to answer. This paint sprays easier than a home store latex paint for sure, but it's still not "thin". You'll need a fairly powerful unit to fully atomize the paint. I need the largest tip and needle that comes with the graco unit to get there. Only way to know for sure it to try it. Thanks for watching!
@@ChestnutRidgeWorkshop thank you
From the Gallery PDS:
HVLP:
Fluid Pressure 5-10 p.s.i.
Air Pressure 8-10 p.s.i.
Cap/Tip .055-.070 inch
Needle #3 or #4
Graco, Needle #3 is 1.3, Needle #4 is 1.8. Odd they don't have a 1.5. Fuji is #3 1.3, #4 1.5, #5 1.8. I'm using a 1.5mm from Fuji. I did try a 1.3mm and that worked okay as well when Ford #4 is around 45s.
this paint isn't a sherwin williams paint its a c oumpany that bought and slapped the new label on it...another hidden thing this paint can be cross linked...will make it dry faster and harder...
Yes that's true. Thanks for watching!
You you still using Gallery?
@@Rcam123 Occasionally. We're still primarily a solvent base shop, but sometimes there's a reason to use it.
Good video
Thank you!
Did you used cross linker?
Nope
Bm command
Stay away from gallery guys, when it come to the edge you can cheap it easily
Renner
Renner is on the list to try for sure. What I like about the gallery series currently is the availability. I can grab it from any SW store in town.