Cheapest High output alternator for Car Audio
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 มิ.ย. 2024
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I'm running a 340amp JS alternator rn in my 02 grand cherokee overland v8. 0/2 cable upgrades and running 96ah headway with a 80ah agm up front. So far at 600-800rpm full tilt on my taramps bass 8k trying to get voltage below 13.2 in the heat but it just eats. So far I feel like the alternator made the biggest difference. But I had a big 3 of 0 with the stock and it would fall down to 10v hot and pounding. I think stock is a 132 amp. I want to build a bracket and wire in a dedicated alt and run a gm style with an adjustable regulator.
Very nice to no. Between this and a dual alt set up mount can be really hard to swallow. Together you can Very easily spend 1000$ just for the two the set up for a 2alt if your able to weld isnt that much to build and make your self but you have to already have one to be able to make it unfortunately 😢 this is speaking for a 94 or 89-98 chevy gmc Tahoe or pick up with this alt and building your own dual set up for about 400$ this is less then half of what you would pay for both regularly. You can also add the big3 and all the wiring and super cap for just over or close to 1000$ now that a awesome deal 😮😊😎👍👌✌️💯💪
I bought a 390A from powerbastards. I thought 600 was high. Turns out its way cheaper than the stock one at 950
I’m running a 04 Suburban so $600 is high for an alternator that’s going on a $2500 truck. That being said I’m probably just going to end up buying a Mechman 400amp for the system. I already have a new dual alternator bracket and a new 255 amp alternator that I just installed about two weeks ago when my 105 amp stock one gave up on me.
@@JonesCoWoodworks my wife had to have a platinum f150 with an ecoboost. Everything on that bitch is expensive. 2k for a headlight, 2 k for a taillight, 2k for a damn side mirror. Not to mention the dreaded timing chain rattle or 10 speed issues that are coming I'm sure. But I had to do that in order to get my 35 acres of Colorado mountain top. Now if I could just get there lol
You need to make a video showing how to run the ground wire to the sensor you talking about
i have, th-cam.com/video/iMglPQnTxX8/w-d-xo.html
Get the dyno chart.
Understand the dyno chart.
If a manufacturer or rebuilder does not have a dyno chart for the alternator, be warned.
You need to know what kind of power it's capable of at idle and different rpms. Match that to your needs.
An alternator is the heart an soul of any system. $500-600 is relatively average, a fraction of the overall cost for sounding great.
Mechman did a video on one of the hi output ebay alternators... It said it was 300amp, it was less than 100amps at idle.
i dont know about idle , but this one clamped at 295 at 2k rpms,
This is why a dyno chart is so important. A lot of those cheaper alternators are just internally rewired to produce higher output at higher rpm, but sacrifice output at lower RPM.
I just looked up this alternator on Amazon and I found one that says it’s a one wire 300 amp for a secondary electrical system. Is that the same one that you have here ?
im using the one with factory plug,