Good stuff! Thank you for your support and install. FYI, your application uses a terminal block regulator so if you ever wanted to up your voltage you can simply purchase the 91102R external regulator and it would be able to plug in to your Mechman alternator. 😇🥰
That explains a lot! When I get those voltage drops it happens when I stop at a red light, the voltage dips and then I jumps back up above 14. It happens no matter how much power I am drawing. If upgraded batteries don't even things out a bit I will look into that regulator.
One thing I have wondered that I hope y'all could help with. How much extra wear is caused by adding batteries. Obviously a 2k amp on a stock battery is gonna cause more wear on the alt than that same amp with a large agm. But when you get into the territory of guys running a 12k on say 100 AH of lfp and a stock 120 amp alt, how much faster will that actually wear out the alternator?
@@blakebrockhaus347 it depends on the level of battery depletion and the number of times that has happened. Adding batteries is a good way to absorb high percentage battery depletion. When you're only "topping off" a few batteries vs. Completely charging a single battery, its much easy for both the battery(s) and alternator.
@@blakebrockhaus347 A stock 120a alt running one 100ah AGM, powering a 12k is never a good idea, 1- you you'll run the system into low voltage causing premature failure of the amp, deck DSP, and any other equipment you maybe running. Your AGM will never have a chance to recharge to its full capacity causing it to fail in a short time and finally your going to burn up (over heat)your stock alt because your forcing it to charge at 100% all the time. PS I would say a 2k with the same power source would end with similar results with long listening sessions. Lithium is a no brainer. the JP 40 in the above situation would cure all of my points, maybe 2 JP40s for the 12k and you could keep you stock alt. I hope that helps.
The battery being replaced will absolutely help since it stores all the power! ( pop the cell caps I'll bet the fluid is low ). Now with that being said, maybe you did it of camera but for the people watching as well as you bud. When doing the big 3 first always super clean all connections including the factory's and use terminal protector or clear coat the crap out of them!!!!!!!!!! And most definitely buy new terminals ( there's many options, my personal favorite is the terminals with the post adapters. ). This will completely fix the voltage drop! Lastly the fused link is a safe idea and always a good idea, however doing the upgrade completely and cleanly it isn't needed because most vehicles already have a fused power wire and if it goes it will tell you far faster than the new wiring fuse ( since your putting a bigger wire and fuse than the factory). Now if your running a old vehicle with out the fuse than pro tip. The alternator wire to battery must be fused, close as possible to the alternator and make sure your fuse is matched to the alternator amps! Then the power wire to the amps will match those and Lastly grounding the alternator casing should be upgraded as well. ( the big 4 ) or you will create the bottle neck that will cause the power wire to heat up. Lol actually 1 more peace of advice for everyone. If you're going to do the big 3 never use a smaller wire than 4 gage ofc. But really just use 0 gage ofc and never look back...
Sorry if i ramble here. Great stuff in this video, definitely signing up for skill share! I can't use the hydraulic crimper on my own because it always shifts and gets very frustrating as you mention. So the hack I found for large gauge is to use my vice with a steel pellet placed in the center of my crimp spot. The steel pellet is very important! I've found it works just as well as a hammer die if not better and less work :) Im running stock electrical on my new model sierra which is a factory upgraded 220A alt and large factory agm with that beautiful blue new jp23. I am seeing voltage down to 13.3 on the hardest bass hits then quickly rebounding when the alt is charging wired down to 0.5ohm to clipping. The smart charging on new GMs can be a pain but it's also tells me my electrical is sufficient when it still sometimes goes into "smart charging" which maintain a 80% battery charge and lowers the charging voltage in this state to reduce the draw on the engine to increase fuel economy and battery life supposedly. I still want to add an ultra cap near my amp because I am dripping over 1v on those hard hits but I don't think its absolutely necessary.
One of our 320 amp units would be a nice upgrade for that setup AND it would come smart charging bypassed out of the box. While your OE 220 amp alternator is certainly a good one, it is still the old 3 phase round wire technology. What that means is it is less efficient and makes less power in lower RPM's. It is probably around 130-145 amps at idle and around 185-195 amps heat soaked/operating temperature. For example, our similar amperage 250 amp unit will make around 190-210 amps at idle and around 255-260 amps heat soaked/operating temperature. So while you're only "seeing" a 30 amp difference, there is much more under the curve and in the operating zone. The good thing about going with a 250 amp unit is the same size pulley as your OE unit so you can reuse your stock length belt. A great bang for buck at around $400 considering whats out there now.
@@mechmanalternators Wow, thanks for the info! I've been curious about the curve on the 250A. I guess I've been reading older forums, because I was reading that you weren't sure how the alts would react with the smart charging tech in these trucks, and the largest you made was a 240A (if I remember correctly, but I guess that was probably the 250 mentioned.) Sounds like you have it all figured out now with them being bypass ready and larger! I will be calling to talk to a tech about the 320A assuming a tech can assist with sizing the belt for the reduced pulley size. I would definitely like the extra available power for future builds.
I have a 09 escape that I put a 250 amp ho alt in to run my subs and mid and high amp. When it’s at full tilt one song I tested made the voltage drop to 11.8 but as soon as the alt kicked in it pushed the voltage right up to 15.3
FYI I do enjoy your channel bud helping people while learning is very awesome! I'll be honest I do have a massive amount of knowledge but really don't have the patience to do videos.. good job bud 👍
Great video. You can find some of the higher-end AGM batteries have positive and negative side mounts and top posts. They are a great option for connecting many power leads and grounds. I have an X2-Power AGM setup in my truck.
I'm looking forward to watching this video while on the plane. I'm picking up an D3400 XS Battery in a few days. My total wattage in my system probably tops out at 1100-1300 watts. Im also replacing my serpentine belt that's due for change.
As a diy myself if anyone wants a cheap way to add buss bars to your batteries. Just go to Home Depot and get mending brackets. This gives you 3-4 extra “holes” to install lugged wires. Most places will charge $50 for a 4 lugged buss bar.
Watching this great video with a little bit of envy. This core part of the big 3 won’t work on the vehicles I install on. Mechman doesn’t even make one for the later model Hondas we drive. Those Hondas have computer controlled alternators that allow voltage drops irregardless of the output capacity of the alternator installed. There is a workaround but it is very complicated and definitely not for novices.
Sadly, you're right. LINBUS integrated computer charging is very finicky and doesn't like being messed with. Usually just adding batteries is an good, reliable and somewhat economical bandaid.
You did a great video thx. My first alt for my 97 Dodge 2500 was a Mechman 240, then a 390 then back to the 240, now I run a custom-made "large case" from CES 390 cold start 16.8v to hot 16v to 144ah LTO. PS the 240 small case is way better than the small case 390.. why? because the 390 has long term over heating issues, the good thing you bought a Mechman (I didn't) they will replace or fix it with no problems at all! Mechman just said they could not make me a large case, or I would has stayed with them 😩 I love Mechman!!😃
Great video definitely one of my favorite that you put out. I hope you enjoy the bass as much as I do. Also you could have lefted the engine block ground and add a ground directly to the casing of the alternator if possible.
What u running amp wise? Do u get drop at full tilt? Curious bc I'm running a 350 amp alt, 1200 on highs and a 3k (JP23V2) on my 15. I charge at 14.8. Full big4, 1/0 ofc throughout. Odyssey agm under hood, optima yellowtop, xs xp2000 and ioxus ultracap in the trunk and I still drop to low 13s full tilt. I'm switching to lithium soon but I feel like all I have should be able to maintain mid-high 13s if not 14s full tilt.
I need my alt upgraded. 2 phoenix gold sx amps 1200.1s with 4 xs power batts pushing 6 10 inch phoenix gold sx's in a 2021 civic.. thanks for the uploads, always watch and learn. I'm 39 so I'm not new to car audio but no pro..
I have the same crimper. maybe rebranded with a different company logo but the tool looked identical. I aswell needed an additional hand to hold the lug
Little late here, but there are issues with doing and Alt upgrade. In my case it was a 400 amp alternator in a 2015 Ford Taurus. What no one tells you is all modern cars use a battery management system. In the 2015 Taurus case its based on the negative battery terminal. It's an amp clamp that senses current. Whats going to happen if you do nothing is the sytem will start and look fantastic! Untill the BMS adapts to the new current level. IE after about 8 hours. At that point your voltage will mysteriously start to drop off. The system is seeing your battery hitting its 80% charged limit and deliberately throttling alternator output. No what anyone doing this is aiming for. I grounded the negative to the frame and the alternator to the same point. Now you have 2 choices. Use FORSCAN and disable BMS, or simply unplug the current sensor. Things you learn on the way...
That is a good point in something that more people need to talk about. I very rarely see more than 14 volts in my vehicle because the ECU controls the alternator. At some point I'll need to add a regulator.
I went with Autotech engineering 320 Amp alternator. Most car computers regulate the voltage. Causes spikes and drops. The auto tech ho alt comes with a harness with diodes to increase voltage. Paired with Agm and 1 limitless lithium 15ah. I maybe drop half a volt at full tilt. I'm only using 3 to 3500 rms. I'm sure if I go with bigger Amp I may drop a volt
@@DIYAudioGuy i know hehe. The lithium will stay where you charge, as all type of lithium i use have. The AGM will rest at 12.8-13v depending on what type of AGM you use. When you charge at 14.4v pluss, your AGM will drain and stay under constant charging, this will kill the AGM. And as a total you will less power. I used AGM and it does together with the Lithium. When I used only lithium I got less voltage drop ☺️
@@DIYAudioGuy While they are compatible and, in your situation, OK to use (and most mild setups), it's the charge RATE differentials between the 2 chemistries that the alternator can sometimes have a fit with when one or both of the batteries are heavily drained. Usually only in heavy/big builds but we've seen it happen.
@@mechmanalternators Would love to have somebody from Mechman join us on one of our live streams to talk about all of this. Let me know if y'all are interested.
i’m curious about underhood temperatures and their effect on wire resistance and potential voltage drop? I’m sure i’m ok, running 3/0 welding cable off a 170 Mechman 😅
Just a question, I see a lot of people using fuses instead of circuit breakers for their car audio power lines. I'm curious as to why, as the circuit breaker is re-settable and it provides an easy way to disconnect the power to the amps (by just switching it off).
@@DIYAudioGuy Not me, LOL. For as long as I can remember I've been using circuit breakers. I've got a 200A one in "Matilda" right now that's been there for almost as long as I've owned the SUV (15 years). I guess fuses are a bit more aesthetically pleasing than circuit breakers, but I'm definitely a function over form guy, particularly when the chances of getting a replacement 200A fuse locally are basically zero. No bass for a week while I wait for a replacement to be shipped? Not happening :-).
The main issue we see with using those is voltage drop can happen with the wide variety of cheap circuit breakers. Same goes for battery isolators, it's just another pot for potential voltage drop. The "fuse" is usually the goto as it is cheap, more readily available and less chance for voltage drop due to cheap manufacturing costs.
@@mechmanalternatorsInteresting. Battery isolators are a bit different as those have electronic components in series with the power feed that will cause a voltage drop. With a circuit breaker, all the power feed sees is a switch. I guess one could argue that a fuse only has two points of contact while a circuit breaker has three (the connections to the circuit breaker and the internal switch), but that third point of contact is usually very well protected .... FWIW, "readily available" is subjective. if I replace my 200A circuit breaker with a fuse and it blows, I will have to wait a week for a replacement because I will have to have one shipped - no one stocks that locally. OTOH, I've been using the same 200A circuit breaker for the last 15 years so never had to replace it, and the convenience of just being able to switch off the power to the amps (as opposed to having to pull a fuse or unscrew a cable from the fuse holder) is just too much to give up :-).
@@Grommet2007 100% on the money. As for your 15-year-old circuit breaker.... unfortunately, there has been a decline in quality/quality control of many of the electronics over that year span. :( In a situation where a disconnect is needed, I personally just use high amperage marine grade on/off switches. I use these instead of relays as well on my personal off-road vehicle.
Do you know of any good videos that go into detail about how to install a high output alternator and put the right amount of tension on the belt etc. I'm ordering my first EVER HO alternator and need help
Contact customer support for the company you're buying the alternator from. I ordered mine from mechman, they told me the exact belt that I needed. Then I did a search for how to change the belt in my specific vehicle, and I bought a few tools.
What do you do if you have a sensor on your negative battery cable to your battery? Plus what do you do if you have to bypass the ecm so that you can charge more than the stock system allows?
In both cases I would advise you to reach out to the manufacturer of your alternator. They should be able to provide you some customer support. Looks like if I want to maintain high voltage that I'll need to bypass my ECM as well. This thing likes to hang out at 13.8 no matter how hard or how light I push it.
@@DIYAudioGuy You can either do the external regulator thing (plugs in) OR we can rebuild your alternator with the more standard GM 4pin regulator which will have your voltage at a steady 14.6-14.9 volts. You'll need to install a 12v switched source wire from the pigtail we provide to turn the alternator on and off as the only other hookup.
No you don’t have to take pictures of the belt routing unless you really can’t remember. Serpentine belt routing is easy, the belt has a smooth side and a ribbed side, some have 4,5,6 ribs. Now your motor has pulleys with the ribbed grooves and some smooth tentioners and the only way to route the belt is to place the ribbed side of belt to ribbed pulley those must face one another and same with smooth or outer side of belt and tensioner pulley. If ribbed side of belt is making contact with a smooth tension pulley or vice versa it’s wrong.
I can count on one hand the number of times I've changed the serpentine belt. So I'm taking a picture of the damn thing. If you're a mechanic that takes three or four of these things apart every single day then you don't need to take the picture.
Love ur channel man. Quick question I've got a 2008 Dodge Ram has a 3.7 liter engine I was told they didn't make that high output alternator for my model do you know anything about that. Appreciate any help and thank you
I would say it depends on the overall power draw of your system, but DIY guy is right probably not, a 390 alt can only produce 390 so one short run of 0 gage OFC from the battery to the alt is enough, but Rob (Hifivega) the guy the made the big 3 kit, included this extra peace so having the battery grounded to the frame is just the best thing to do hands down.
Since the alt grounds through the engine block, upgrading the alt ground is functionally the same as upgrading the engine ground (In theory) there may be other things idk abt, but electrically it should be the same
@@blakebrockhaus347 There is a reason the factory has multipule grounding points engine, frame and body, it is because of rubber motor, Transmission mounts, if you want to ground the alt to the fame you must run a dedicated ground directly to the frame. PS the frame is the best grounding point on trucks, I hope that helps. Also, most modern vehicles have cheap cast alloys under the hood with gaskets, and treed locker, anti-seize on the head bolts rendering an engine ground in my opinion a poor choice. But opinions are like diapers there full of shit and usually stink LOL
@@Knightfallprotocol444 do you know the output of your factory alternator? I've yet to figure out a good rule of thumb that I can give people when they're trying to make this decision. It's a vehicle specific question. Let's see your factory can put out a hundred amps. That's only peak output, not idle output, and your car is probably going to need 75% of that power to operate. That leaves 25 ampers of current to operate your aftermarket gear. You are 1000 watt amp is going to need 100 ampers of current, thankfully the battery will help fill in the gap and you're not going to be playing volume 100% of the time.
@@DIYAudioGuy I believe it’s 160 Amps at idle. I’m running a lower powered battery with 800cca. I definitely need to improve my battery soon and alternator in the future. Thanks for all of your input, it helps a lot!
I got a mechman 370 elite all my power issues are gone but now I can't find a belt strong enough to handle the resistance it creates trying to.make all that power
The belt will be loose and none of your driving accessories will spin. Some cars will have a tensioner pulley that you can adjust, or that will adjust automatically. But why risk it? If you have the money for a high output alternator and you can't afford to replace the belt then you don't have enough money for the high output alternator.
@DIYAudioGuy thanks for the response but I took my car to a shop and I told him to put the belt I brought him but he tossed my belt and put a stock belt on the altornator Wil that belt damaged my altornator???
get video. what would cause a subwoofer to cook when there is no direct short all connection check out and it only happens when the volume is turned up. could you please help?
It will not help because 90a is all you have to work with. You need an upgraded alternator for an amp that size add the big three when you upgrade the alternator.
I'd guess the cathode plate in the positive side of your battery likely has degeaded over time. If the alternator can't force enough extra power into the positve terminal of the battery, it results in too few electrons dropping from the cathode and then less electrons are then available from the negative terminal where the annode is housed. As the cathode fills with electrons, the chemical attraction between the negative terminal and positive terminal is reduced and is seen as voltage drop. The alternator can be thought of as the pump that pushes electrons to the negative terminal so they can be used to do work in the circuit. Basic chemistry supports that electrons flow from negative to positive in a DC circuit powered by electrochemical batteries like agm, lithium, or lead acid.
The first 1,000 people to use the link will get a 1 month free trial of Skillshare: skl.sh/diyaudioguy11221
Good stuff! Thank you for your support and install.
FYI, your application uses a terminal block regulator so if you ever wanted to up your voltage you can simply purchase the 91102R external regulator and it would be able to plug in to your Mechman alternator. 😇🥰
That explains a lot! When I get those voltage drops it happens when I stop at a red light, the voltage dips and then I jumps back up above 14. It happens no matter how much power I am drawing. If upgraded batteries don't even things out a bit I will look into that regulator.
One thing I have wondered that I hope y'all could help with. How much extra wear is caused by adding batteries. Obviously a 2k amp on a stock battery is gonna cause more wear on the alt than that same amp with a large agm. But when you get into the territory of guys running a 12k on say 100 AH of lfp and a stock 120 amp alt, how much faster will that actually wear out the alternator?
@@blakebrockhaus347 it depends on the level of battery depletion and the number of times that has happened.
Adding batteries is a good way to absorb high percentage battery depletion. When you're only "topping off" a few batteries vs. Completely charging a single battery, its much easy for both the battery(s) and alternator.
@@blakebrockhaus347 A stock 120a alt running one 100ah AGM, powering a 12k is never a good idea, 1- you you'll run the system into low voltage causing premature failure of the amp, deck DSP, and any other equipment you maybe running. Your AGM will never have a chance to recharge to its full capacity causing it to fail in a short time and finally your going to burn up (over heat)your stock alt because your forcing it to charge at 100% all the time. PS I would say a 2k with the same power source would end with similar results with long listening sessions. Lithium is a no brainer. the JP 40 in the above situation would cure all of my points, maybe 2 JP40s for the 12k and you could keep you stock alt. I hope that helps.
@@scottiffanimccord1509 yeah I said 100 AH of LFP which is the same lithium chemistry as the jy HP 40
The battery being replaced will absolutely help since it stores all the power! ( pop the cell caps I'll bet the fluid is low ). Now with that being said, maybe you did it of camera but for the people watching as well as you bud. When doing the big 3 first always super clean all connections including the factory's and use terminal protector or clear coat the crap out of them!!!!!!!!!! And most definitely buy new terminals ( there's many options, my personal favorite is the terminals with the post adapters. ). This will completely fix the voltage drop! Lastly the fused link is a safe idea and always a good idea, however doing the upgrade completely and cleanly it isn't needed because most vehicles already have a fused power wire and if it goes it will tell you far faster than the new wiring fuse ( since your putting a bigger wire and fuse than the factory). Now if your running a old vehicle with out the fuse than pro tip. The alternator wire to battery must be fused, close as possible to the alternator and make sure your fuse is matched to the alternator amps! Then the power wire to the amps will match those and Lastly grounding the alternator casing should be upgraded as well. ( the big 4 ) or you will create the bottle neck that will cause the power wire to heat up. Lol actually 1 more peace of advice for everyone. If you're going to do the big 3 never use a smaller wire than 4 gage ofc. But really just use 0 gage ofc and never look back...
Sorry if i ramble here. Great stuff in this video, definitely signing up for skill share! I can't use the hydraulic crimper on my own because it always shifts and gets very frustrating as you mention. So the hack I found for large gauge is to use my vice with a steel pellet placed in the center of my crimp spot. The steel pellet is very important! I've found it works just as well as a hammer die if not better and less work :) Im running stock electrical on my new model sierra which is a factory upgraded 220A alt and large factory agm with that beautiful blue new jp23. I am seeing voltage down to 13.3 on the hardest bass hits then quickly rebounding when the alt is charging wired down to 0.5ohm to clipping. The smart charging on new GMs can be a pain but it's also tells me my electrical is sufficient when it still sometimes goes into "smart charging" which maintain a 80% battery charge and lowers the charging voltage in this state to reduce the draw on the engine to increase fuel economy and battery life supposedly. I still want to add an ultra cap near my amp because I am dripping over 1v on those hard hits but I don't think its absolutely necessary.
Yea, maintaining voltage is important!
One of our 320 amp units would be a nice upgrade for that setup AND it would come smart charging bypassed out of the box. While your OE 220 amp alternator is certainly a good one, it is still the old 3 phase round wire technology. What that means is it is less efficient and makes less power in lower RPM's. It is probably around 130-145 amps at idle and around 185-195 amps heat soaked/operating temperature.
For example, our similar amperage 250 amp unit will make around 190-210 amps at idle and around 255-260 amps heat soaked/operating temperature. So while you're only "seeing" a 30 amp difference, there is much more under the curve and in the operating zone. The good thing about going with a 250 amp unit is the same size pulley as your OE unit so you can reuse your stock length belt. A great bang for buck at around $400 considering whats out there now.
@@mechmanalternators Wow, thanks for the info! I've been curious about the curve on the 250A. I guess I've been reading older forums, because I was reading that you weren't sure how the alts would react with the smart charging tech in these trucks, and the largest you made was a 240A (if I remember correctly, but I guess that was probably the 250 mentioned.) Sounds like you have it all figured out now with them being bypass ready and larger! I will be calling to talk to a tech about the 320A assuming a tech can assist with sizing the belt for the reduced pulley size. I would definitely like the extra available power for future builds.
When using the lug , blow torch it use a little bit of sawder and then crimp gets a better connection and way easier to crimp.
I have a 09 escape that I put a 250 amp ho alt in to run my subs and mid and high amp. When it’s at full tilt one song I tested made the voltage drop to 11.8 but as soon as the alt kicked in it pushed the voltage right up to 15.3
FYI I do enjoy your channel bud helping people while learning is very awesome! I'll be honest I do have a massive amount of knowledge but really don't have the patience to do videos.. good job bud 👍
Happy I found your channel, vids are informative and perfect for a guy like me who isn't the sharpest knife in the drawer🙂👍..
The smartest people are the ones that realize that they don't know everything.
Great video. You can find some of the higher-end AGM batteries have positive and negative side mounts and top posts. They are a great option for connecting many power leads and grounds. I have an X2-Power AGM setup in my truck.
I'm looking forward to watching this video while on the plane. I'm picking up an D3400 XS Battery in a few days. My total wattage in my system probably tops out at 1100-1300 watts. Im also replacing my serpentine belt that's due for change.
As a diy myself if anyone wants a cheap way to add buss bars to your batteries. Just go to Home Depot and get mending brackets. This gives you 3-4 extra “holes” to install lugged wires. Most places will charge $50 for a 4 lugged buss bar.
Thanks for the tip.
Great video! The install turned out 🤟
The wire was fantastic.
Watching this great video with a little bit of envy. This core part of the big 3 won’t work on the vehicles I install on. Mechman doesn’t even make one for the later model Hondas we drive. Those Hondas have computer controlled alternators that allow voltage drops irregardless of the output capacity of the alternator installed. There is a workaround but it is very complicated and definitely not for novices.
That sounds like a royal pain.
Sadly, you're right. LINBUS integrated computer charging is very finicky and doesn't like being messed with.
Usually just adding batteries is an good, reliable and somewhat economical bandaid.
You did a great video thx. My first alt for my 97 Dodge 2500 was a Mechman 240, then a 390 then back to the 240, now I run a custom-made "large case" from CES 390 cold start 16.8v to hot 16v to 144ah LTO. PS the 240 small case is way better than the small case 390.. why? because the 390 has long term over heating issues, the good thing you bought a Mechman (I didn't) they will replace or fix it with no problems at all! Mechman just said they could not make me a large case, or I would has stayed with them 😩 I love Mechman!!😃
That is some serious power! 🦾🦾🦾🦾
Small case alternators over 300 amps usually don't charge well at idle. 240s are usually the goto for best of both worlds.
You’re giving “retired hip hop star” energy
I don't know what that means, but I will take it as a complement.
Great video Justin
You are far too kind.
I've fought alternators brackets before... that hammer and threaded rod is the ticket
Great video definitely one of my favorite that you put out.
I hope you enjoy the bass as much as I do.
Also you could have lefted the engine block ground and add a ground directly to the casing of the alternator if possible.
Some people add that and call it the big 4.
@@DIYAudioGuy the reason I do it because vehicles today are sensitive and I don't want to make a sensor lose ground refrance because of my wiring.
@@joeyh7817 That's a good point.
You update that battery I'm sure your voltage sag at idle will go away. Mine stays rock solid at 15v with a JS 390/agm/Ioxus bank.
That is what I am hoping for!
Yep, decent battery or an ultracap will def fix that issue
@@DIYAudioGuy your alternator is externally regulated. The voltage is controlled by the OE unit on the truck.
What u running amp wise? Do u get drop at full tilt? Curious bc I'm running a 350 amp alt, 1200 on highs and a 3k (JP23V2) on my 15. I charge at 14.8. Full big4, 1/0 ofc throughout. Odyssey agm under hood, optima yellowtop, xs xp2000 and ioxus ultracap in the trunk and I still drop to low 13s full tilt. I'm switching to lithium soon but I feel like all I have should be able to maintain mid-high 13s if not 14s full tilt.
I need my alt upgraded. 2 phoenix gold sx amps 1200.1s with 4 xs power batts pushing 6 10 inch phoenix gold sx's in a 2021 civic.. thanks for the uploads, always watch and learn. I'm 39 so I'm not new to car audio but no pro..
Go for it, the alternator upgrade is the way to go.
I have the same crimper. maybe rebranded with a different company logo but the tool looked identical. I aswell needed an additional hand to hold the lug
Glad I am not the only one!
Little late here, but there are issues with doing and Alt upgrade. In my case it was a 400 amp alternator in a 2015 Ford Taurus. What no one tells you is all modern cars use a battery management system. In the 2015 Taurus case its based on the negative battery terminal. It's an amp clamp that senses current. Whats going to happen if you do nothing is the sytem will start and look fantastic! Untill the BMS adapts to the new current level. IE after about 8 hours. At that point your voltage will mysteriously start to drop off. The system is seeing your battery hitting its 80% charged limit and deliberately throttling alternator output. No what anyone doing this is aiming for. I grounded the negative to the frame and the alternator to the same point. Now you have 2 choices. Use FORSCAN and disable BMS, or simply unplug the current sensor. Things you learn on the way...
That is a good point in something that more people need to talk about. I very rarely see more than 14 volts in my vehicle because the ECU controls the alternator. At some point I'll need to add a regulator.
I went with Autotech engineering 320 Amp alternator. Most car computers regulate the voltage. Causes spikes and drops. The auto tech ho alt comes with a harness with diodes to increase voltage. Paired with Agm and 1 limitless lithium 15ah. I maybe drop half a volt at full tilt. I'm only using 3 to 3500 rms. I'm sure if I go with bigger Amp I may drop a volt
💪
I like the "bolt to spread the alternator" trick. I would have just used the Dremel to shave down the inside of the tabs. Lol
Hopefully that trick will save somebody some time!
Deff got bit from the true basshead bug lol. Some lithium, and you'll beable to test the real big boys💪👏👏👏
Top video
Thanks.
Great video ☺️ but just so you know you can't use lithium together with a AGM battery. You will lower the lithium and kill the AGM ☺️
It is not the chemistry it is the resting voltage lddy.no/1divf and lddy.no/1divh both claim to be 100% compatible with a stock battery.
@@DIYAudioGuy i know hehe. The lithium will stay where you charge, as all type of lithium i use have. The AGM will rest at 12.8-13v depending on what type of AGM you use. When you charge at 14.4v pluss, your AGM will drain and stay under constant charging, this will kill the AGM. And as a total you will less power. I used AGM and it does together with the Lithium. When I used only lithium I got less voltage drop ☺️
@@DIYAudioGuy While they are compatible and, in your situation, OK to use (and most mild setups), it's the charge RATE differentials between the 2 chemistries that the alternator can sometimes have a fit with when one or both of the batteries are heavily drained. Usually only in heavy/big builds but we've seen it happen.
@@mechmanalternators Would love to have somebody from Mechman join us on one of our live streams to talk about all of this. Let me know if y'all are interested.
Great video thank you
Glad you enjoyed it
DIY Car Guy
i’m curious about underhood temperatures and their effect on wire resistance and potential voltage drop?
I’m sure i’m ok, running 3/0 welding cable off a 170 Mechman 😅
you'll melt through the insulation before the resistance of the wire becomes a problem
@@blakebrockhaus347 i meant how does the heat from the engine effect resistance in the wire, i wonder if it would measurable to the DIY'er
@@markwentz8332 no. By the time the wire was hit enough to noticably affect the resistance, you would have melted through the jacket
Just a question, I see a lot of people using fuses instead of circuit breakers for their car audio power lines. I'm curious as to why, as the circuit breaker is re-settable and it provides an easy way to disconnect the power to the amps (by just switching it off).
Honestly, I think it is because that is the custom. Everybody does it because everybody does it.
@@DIYAudioGuy Not me, LOL. For as long as I can remember I've been using circuit breakers. I've got a 200A one in "Matilda" right now that's been there for almost as long as I've owned the SUV (15 years). I guess fuses are a bit more aesthetically pleasing than circuit breakers, but I'm definitely a function over form guy, particularly when the chances of getting a replacement 200A fuse locally are basically zero. No bass for a week while I wait for a replacement to be shipped? Not happening :-).
The main issue we see with using those is voltage drop can happen with the wide variety of cheap circuit breakers. Same goes for battery isolators, it's just another pot for potential voltage drop. The "fuse" is usually the goto as it is cheap, more readily available and less chance for voltage drop due to cheap manufacturing costs.
@@mechmanalternatorsInteresting. Battery isolators are a bit different as those have electronic components in series with the power feed that will cause a voltage drop. With a circuit breaker, all the power feed sees is a switch. I guess one could argue that a fuse only has two points of contact while a circuit breaker has three (the connections to the circuit breaker and the internal switch), but that third point of contact is usually very well protected ....
FWIW, "readily available" is subjective. if I replace my 200A circuit breaker with a fuse and it blows, I will have to wait a week for a replacement because I will have to have one shipped - no one stocks that locally. OTOH, I've been using the same 200A circuit breaker for the last 15 years so never had to replace it, and the convenience of just being able to switch off the power to the amps (as opposed to having to pull a fuse or unscrew a cable from the fuse holder) is just too much to give up :-).
@@Grommet2007 100% on the money. As for your 15-year-old circuit breaker.... unfortunately, there has been a decline in quality/quality control of many of the electronics over that year span. :(
In a situation where a disconnect is needed, I personally just use high amperage marine grade on/off switches. I use these instead of relays as well on my personal off-road vehicle.
Do you know of any good videos that go into detail about how to install a high output alternator and put the right amount of tension on the belt etc. I'm ordering my first EVER HO alternator and need help
Contact customer support for the company you're buying the alternator from. I ordered mine from mechman, they told me the exact belt that I needed.
Then I did a search for how to change the belt in my specific vehicle, and I bought a few tools.
Hi. What alternator do you recommend for a Honda civic 2007. My amp is also a jp23 v2
What do you do if you have a sensor on your negative battery cable to your battery? Plus what do you do if you have to bypass the ecm so that you can charge more than the stock system allows?
Easy, you goto www.mechman.com and read the FAQ and/or Instructions tab. 😉
In both cases I would advise you to reach out to the manufacturer of your alternator. They should be able to provide you some customer support.
Looks like if I want to maintain high voltage that I'll need to bypass my ECM as well. This thing likes to hang out at 13.8 no matter how hard or how light I push it.
@@DIYAudioGuy You can either do the external regulator thing (plugs in) OR we can rebuild your alternator with the more standard GM 4pin regulator which will have your voltage at a steady 14.6-14.9 volts. You'll need to install a 12v switched source wire from the pigtail we provide to turn the alternator on and off as the only other hookup.
Great content Sir!!! What fuse size did you use for your high output alternator?
300 amp
No you don’t have to take pictures of the belt routing unless you really can’t remember.
Serpentine belt routing is easy, the belt has a smooth side and a ribbed side, some have 4,5,6 ribs. Now your motor has pulleys with the ribbed grooves and some smooth tentioners and the only way to route the belt is to place the ribbed side of belt to ribbed pulley those must face one another and same with smooth or outer side of belt and tensioner pulley.
If ribbed side of belt is making contact with a smooth tension pulley or vice versa it’s wrong.
I can count on one hand the number of times I've changed the serpentine belt. So I'm taking a picture of the damn thing. If you're a mechanic that takes three or four of these things apart every single day then you don't need to take the picture.
Love ur channel man. Quick question I've got a 2008 Dodge Ram has a 3.7 liter engine I was told they didn't make that high output alternator for my model do you know anything about that. Appreciate any help and thank you
Try js alternators
So I truly am lost at this video. What does the ground do? Like I kinda understand the battery and alternator but where do you put the amp wire?
In a car, the entire body and frame act as the ground.
Thanks!
Thank you very much!
If you are grounding from the mounting bracket on the alternator do you even need to do the engine ground?
I've seen that done before. No, I don't think that you need the engine ground if you're going to do that.
I would say it depends on the overall power draw of your system, but DIY guy is right probably not, a 390 alt can only produce 390 so one short run of 0 gage OFC from the battery to the alt is enough, but Rob (Hifivega) the guy the made the big 3 kit, included this extra peace so having the battery grounded to the frame is just the best thing to do hands down.
Since the alt grounds through the engine block, upgrading the alt ground is functionally the same as upgrading the engine ground (In theory) there may be other things idk abt, but electrically it should be the same
3 grounds body to battery, frame to battery, alternator case, bracket to battery.
@@blakebrockhaus347 There is a reason the factory has multipule grounding points engine, frame and body, it is because of rubber motor, Transmission mounts, if you want to ground the alt to the fame you must run a dedicated ground directly to the frame. PS the frame is the best grounding point on trucks, I hope that helps. Also, most modern vehicles have cheap cast alloys under the hood with gaskets, and treed locker, anti-seize on the head bolts rendering an engine ground in my opinion a poor choice. But opinions are like diapers there full of shit and usually stink LOL
@DIYAudioGuy Can send link for upgraded alternator for Subaru XV 2023, can't find any results online :)
Do you also up the size of the alternator positive cable and if so what gauge wire do you use.
Yes! Zero gauge with a 300a fuse.
did you keep the old connections after doing the big 3?
Yes.
So where do I get a high output alternator for a transit connect mk1
Check to see if mech man has one
If my amp is 1000 watts rms would a 160 amp alt be enough? I also have aftermarket led headlights that suck up a lot of power.
My factory alternator was 140, so that does not sound like much.
@@DIYAudioGuy do you mean that I should upgrade my alternator ?
@@Knightfallprotocol444 do you know the output of your factory alternator?
I've yet to figure out a good rule of thumb that I can give people when they're trying to make this decision. It's a vehicle specific question.
Let's see your factory can put out a hundred amps. That's only peak output, not idle output, and your car is probably going to need 75% of that power to operate.
That leaves 25 ampers of current to operate your aftermarket gear. You are 1000 watt amp is going to need 100 ampers of current, thankfully the battery will help fill in the gap and you're not going to be playing volume 100% of the time.
@@DIYAudioGuy I believe it’s 160 Amps at idle. I’m running a lower powered battery with 800cca. I definitely need to improve my battery soon and alternator in the future. Thanks for all of your input, it helps a lot!
I got a mechman 370 elite all my power issues are gone but now I can't find a belt strong enough to handle the resistance it creates trying to.make all that power
Sounds like a belt alignment problem or some other issue. A normal belt works perfectly fine.
It could be any number of things.
What happen if my belt is the stock belt on the high power alternator ??? Please respond 🙏🏽
The belt will be loose and none of your driving accessories will spin. Some cars will have a tensioner pulley that you can adjust, or that will adjust automatically. But why risk it? If you have the money for a high output alternator and you can't afford to replace the belt then you don't have enough money for the high output alternator.
@DIYAudioGuy thanks for the response but I took my car to a shop and I told him to put the belt I brought him but he tossed my belt and put a stock belt on the altornator Wil that belt damaged my altornator???
get video. what would cause a subwoofer to cook when there is no direct short all connection check out and it only happens when the volume is turned up. could you please help?
I am assuming you can smell the sub getting hot? That it is either to much power and/or clipping.
Is a big 3 needed for a 1800 w RMS amp ? Stock alternator 90 amp . 16 compass
It will not help because 90a is all you have to work with. You need an upgraded alternator for an amp that size add the big three when you upgrade the alternator.
Would a 120 apm help, or should I find something around the 200 ? For alternator amps
Wish u actually showed where and how you routed everything
It's hard to get all of that on camera.
I jus got a 150 amp. How many watts can 150 amp handle
It will depend on how much the car needs.
👍
Could have just grounded at the alternator to battery and frame
I'd guess the cathode plate in the positive side of your battery likely has degeaded over time. If the alternator can't force enough extra power into the positve terminal of the battery, it results in too few electrons dropping from the cathode and then less electrons are then available from the negative terminal where the annode is housed. As the cathode fills with electrons, the chemical attraction between the negative terminal and positive terminal is reduced and is seen as voltage drop. The alternator can be thought of as the pump that pushes electrons to the negative terminal so they can be used to do work in the circuit. Basic chemistry supports that electrons flow from negative to positive in a DC circuit powered by electrochemical batteries like agm, lithium, or lead acid.
That makes sense, the next step is a new battery.
No new battery terminal?
I upgraded to military style terminals that were in the big 3 kit.
What amp alternator
lddy.no/1cuer
You’re missing a ground, big 4
That works as well.
That's a horrible fuse holder just to let you know
Smashed another great video out of the park , god i love these :D
Glad you like them!