2008 Mazda 5 Lower Front Control Arm Bushing
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- In this video I will replace the rear bushing from the front lower control arm on a Mazda 5. This is a 2008 Mazda 5 but should pertain to other model years. Also may apply to the Mazda 3 and some Ford or Volvo models.
Bushing from Amazon.de: www.amazon.de/...
Also you may need to get 4x M12x70 Bolts and lock washers to complete the install. The factory bolts that came off my Mazda 5 did not fit the threads of this NK part.
And you make it look really easy from Maximilian
Glad I could help.
I'm very happy to see what you did I found out that my car doesn't have little I guess his of pushing or a bumper kind of thing which is interesting because every video I saw didn't have it I did thank you for letting me know
Doubtful that stainless steel was the right choice. If you don't use anti sieze it's possible that you never got it tight. It could have just galled. Check out AVE's video on galling.
☝️07:35 In addition to what you see, we did magic, and it all came out on its own and went inside. 🤪In the next video, we will change the car to the plane in the same way, wait for the next video!
😂😂😂🤣😂😂😂
At 7:30 in the video you hear a pop that's the inner race letting loose there's nothing else to see after that it fell apart and came off.
@@JRsGarage I know, I just wanted to make a joke 👍
i'm assuming this is the driver's side. he didn't specify which side.
Yes, drivers side, but the process is the same for both.
That can't be the correct part for that car I it was those OEM bolts would work. Shop some place else next time and you should use blue locktight but I just don't like that idea
Thanks a lot for this, most vids show replacing the whole control arm when my control arm itself looks fine and I replaced the ball joint not long ago. Would have loved the part of the vid of you getting the bushing back on but that's prob not easy to record lol.
Thanks, yea, unfortunately I didn't get that on video.
On Rock Auto, the bushing alone is $12-22, the entire control arm with all bushings and ball joint is about $40. I just replaced both arms.
Still good to know how to do this.
Yes, and I would have replaced the whole arm if I was able to get one for that price. I was in Germany when I did this job and finding the bushing was much easier and cheaper than the whole arm.
Very informative video, a great help
Thanks for the comment.
Not sure what the bushings cost, I just bought the whole a-arm. It wasn’t that expensive. I wonder how long this job actually took
Not too long. Taking the arm off the car was the hardest part.
Hey Should you not be replacing the bolts with high tensile steel bolts? I thought Stainless Steel wasn't as strong?
Luke, thanks for the comment. The bolts I used were the highest grade stainless I could find here in Germany (I can't recall the exact grade). Yes, there is probably a better bolt for use in this application. Bolt properties can be found here: www.fastenal.com/content/documents/FastenalTechnicalReferenceGuide.pdf
Grade F593C bolts (widely available) have a min tensile strength of 100,000 psi, given the tensile stress area of an M12 bolt (.13066 sq-in) that would give a tensile load capability of 13,066 lbs. Shear strength can be estimated as 60% of tensile strength so even in a shearing motion, the bolts should withstand 7,839 lbs of force. Since the car weighs 4,600 lbs gross, and we are only talking about 1 corner of the car and two bolts holding the bushing on, it seems to me that there is plenty of safety margin.
Stainless doesn’t have the same ductility so tensile strength is compromised over time. Never use for suspension on automobiles as they can shear.
Just uploaded video on this, since I could not find one. Very interesting you did it a different way, but we have similar ideas. In my video for tools- press, impact hammer, pliers, big hammer, lube, zip saw
I think I used a bit less effort ;) What do you think?
If I would have had my DeWalt impact wrench at the time it would have been much easier.
Nicely done. Absolutely love the DIY'er details like identifying the bolts and the step to get the bushing inner liner off. Thanks!
My pleasure.
If that bushing is warn out the rest of the control arm is warn out especially the ball joints. A new arm is much cheaper and faster to replace.
True, but I was living in Germany at the time, so finding an inexpensive control arm was proving difficult and I couldn't wait for shipping from the US.
Hi, I own a 2010 Mazda5 in Malaysia. Would the parts be the same?
I assume they would be but I'm not positive.
Did the bushing make any noise on bumps? I have the same blown bushing and fixed the ball joint, cv, bearing, end link etc. can’t seem to find what’s clunking
No, it was normal after changing it out. No difference that I could tell.
Shock mounts? Any play there?
perhaps replace the bushings that are at the back of the front sway bar as they wear too and cause a clunk noise going over bumps
I'm going through the same thing with my CX-5
@@daviddenoble5271 maybe the rubber bushings on the front and rear sway bar mounts
What side is this on?
This is the left (drivers) side of the vehicle. But both sides would follow the same process.
Does it have a left and right?
Yes, there should be a different part for the left and right.
@@JRsGarage thank you…most sites only showing one
Actually, I may have misspoke. Looking at pictures on Rockauto.com it appears it may be universal left-right for the control arm bushing, listed as "front lower rearward". No left-right option listed. Also, for about 20 bucks more you can get the whole control arm with new bushing preinstalled, which might save you a bunch of hassle. If you get the whole control arm there are separate part numbers left and right.
@@JRsGarage im checking on Febest site and seeing theres left and right so im very unsure
Are you looking at part MZAB-MZ3B? I don't see a different number for left and right. Also if you search for that part number on Google you'll see an Amazon link and in the comments someone asked if it can be used on both the left and right and the seller confirmed that yes it can be.
Better off replacing the whole unit, replace the 3 pivot points at once (new arm) is a big time saver and possibly very close in price. compared to doing one at a time over time. But hey that's my 2 cents.
Your probably right, but I was getting ready to sell the car anyway so I just wanted the simplest (lease expensive) route to fixed. Thanks for the comment. Also I was living in Germany at the time and getting Mazda parts is more of a challenge over there.
I’m looking to do the same job myself on my 3, and I’m probably going to replace just the bushings as well, as I am planning on keeping the car for another 2-3 years. I’ve been reading too many reviews of people experiencing issues with the fit and quality of the replacement parts available right now.
Not helping
Not really sure what to do with this comment. If you care to explain a bit more maybe I can help.