Completed the repair today, went very smooth even though I was working in the driveway on Jack Stands in a small space. She drives like a new car and no clunks and clinks. Thanks for posting, your video definitely helped me achieve an easy repair and save some $$$
Great tutorial and solid step by step instructions. Going to be doing this in the driveway on my 2015 Mazda 6, which is identical in design to the 3. I'm also doing a full strut replacement as those are making some serious popping, creaking noises. Come on Amazon, they arrive on Tue. Big THANK YOU for the awesome video.
Another great video. Right to the point. Thank you for this. You're showing me all the parts of my Mazda that I'd like to see, and know about. I look forward to your next ones!
Bro thank you for this video. I'm just learning how to service my own Mazda3 and that was extremely helpful 🙏🏻 Clear video quality, descriptive, and straight to the point.
Well done sir. Only thing missing here is the lug nut torque spec, which is 85 foot pounds. Everything else was well explained. My "stealer-ship" quoted me (as of Feb 2024) over $1400 to do these; not gonna happen. Have air tools, some experience & a free Saturday, piece of cake. The Mevotech Supreme parts were mentioned elsewhere in comments. I've used them before on my Toyota and am well satisfied with their price, quality & performance/function. Plus the ball joint on their control arms for this Mazda are greaseable instead of sealed/non-greaseable. Again, good work sir. Like left. 👍
Grate job sir. I'm from Quebec Canada with snow and salt so A lot of rust , look easy but for me with the rust on my Mazda CX 5 2014 I need more tools and penetrant w40 and spare push type clip because many will break. Thank you for the torque specification.
Thank you for the walk thru and torque specs. Still sore because i have no uga-duga. I found my T-bar with a cheater was the perfect fit to break the front bolt by the oil pan, no swivel needed. The passenger side i used a 12" extension suported by a jack stand to get good leverage and break that big boy. But thats working off the ground with hand tools for ya.
My man, firstly, you didn't pre load the suspension before tightening the front horizontal bolt, this can cause the bush to squeak and will definitely limit the life of the front Bush in the control arm because of "over twist" when the suspension is compressed. Secondly, you actually didn't set the correct torque for ANY bolt because you over torqued them with the impact gun FIRST ! Going around the bolts with the torque wrench after they're already over-torqued is telling you nothing. Just because it goes "click" doesn't mean a thing if they're all over tight to begin with.
Nice technical video. It seems a shame to replace the entire arm just for a busted bushing. But if labor hours are lower to replace the full arm, that speaks to a Mazda engineering oversight.
What's the estimated cost for this repair? I need to do both of my front control arms on my 2016 Mazda 6. Arms look to be about $440 for OEM parts right now. How much labor time is involved for a pro to get this done?
Awesome wheels, I think those would have originally came on a CX-5. I think the Sport 17" wheels of the 3rd gen are way better looking that the swept 5 spoke Touring and GT wheels
It had about 90'000 on it. I love the 4th gen hatch by the way. I feel like its under rated. I wish they offered it in a manual trans. It would be a hot hatch to content with.
Great video!!!! Do remember what brand part you installed? Also, I have an 2014 Japan made model Mazda 3. Mazda part breakdowns show 2 diff control arms Japan and Mexico. Do you think there's any fitment issue? Many thanks.
This is a doable DIY. You'll need that breaker bar and a 1/2 torque wrench as a few bolts require crazy high torque.. 175 ft/lbs on one for example. You can buy the bushings/ball joints aftermarket or OEM and replace but it's easier to just buy a new one and replace the whole thing.. I used Mevotech's.
The passenger side was easy thanks to the video! BUT, the driver side big bolt (the one with 158+ torque) is impossible to get out b/c of the transmission pan. HELP!
I have to change mine 2 times because moog failed me after 1 year for both sides. The new ones doesnt look any better. For those doing your own, go oem. Moog sucks now
Yes it's true, but only for horizontal bolts that go through a Bushing, like the front "through" Bolt on this Mazda 3. The reason is that when the suspension is under the weight of the car, the Bushing is supposed to be "relaxed" (not twisted), Failing to do this limits the life of the Bushing and causes it to squeak over bumps etc. If you tighten the horizontal bolts while the suspension is dangling, the Bush is "relaxed" in this position. Then when the car is back on the ground, the Bush is ALREADY under tension and somewhat twisted. This means that when the suspension is at or near its fully compressed state, (potholes etc.) the Bush will start to tear under the abnormal twist range it's being asked to deliver. If ever you have a new control arm fitted by a garage and it squeaks, and the Mechanic says "it's just 'cos it's new" don't believe him, he was probably too lazy to preload the suspension. The guy in this video has not loaded the suspension before tightening the front horizontal bolt, nor has correctly torqued any bolt up because he over-iorqued everything with his rattle gun first !!. Then he went around every bolt with the torque wrench as if he correctly torqued everything up ! The customer may have squeaks and be back with a torn Bush sooner than he ought to be.
ALL the bolts were over torqued since you have used impact gun to begin tightening. 😅 It is clear, when you try to tighten using torque wrench. Other than that it is great video.
I think he did one mistake in that front bolt i was told it needed to be tighten with the weight of the car on it in order for it not be constantly twisted but i'm no expert. unless the front bushing turn in the controle arm.
I hear clunking noise in front of my Mazda 2015. Not sure if the bushings of thee control arms are shut or my suspensions are done. Maybe both. I’ll have the dealership check it out and I’ll do it myself since my stealership people are crooks 😂😂😂 nice video keep them how to video coming!!
front lower control arm assemblies cost $150-200 for the pair on rock auto. Based on the video looks like one could do it in a couple hours. That being said, labor at a shop will always cost more. But for ONLY both front control arms, that sounds like a rip off
Yep done mine not to long ago. Driver side is a pain in the butt as you need to remove a bolt from the transmission housing and jack the motor up. Then pry the motor forward to remove the bolt located near the air compressor. Definitely not the same as the passenger side 😩
It's ridiculous that you have to replace the entire control arm just because a piece of rubber has gone bad instead of just replacing the rubber. The kind of weathering steel used by the 3rd party brands isn't the same steel car manufacture has used.
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Completed the repair today, went very smooth even though I was working in the driveway on Jack Stands in a small space. She drives like a new car and no clunks and clinks. Thanks for posting, your video definitely helped me achieve an easy repair and save some $$$
Great tutorial and solid step by step instructions. Going to be doing this in the driveway on my 2015 Mazda 6, which is identical in design to the 3. I'm also doing a full strut replacement as those are making some serious popping, creaking noises. Come on Amazon, they arrive on Tue. Big THANK YOU for the awesome video.
Its nice to see it done. I'm replacing everything on the front end, 200424 on the clock with its original parts minus brakes and tires.
Another great video. Right to the point. Thank you for this. You're showing me all the parts of my Mazda that I'd like to see, and know about. I look forward to your next ones!
Bro thank you for this video. I'm just learning how to service my own Mazda3 and that was extremely helpful 🙏🏻 Clear video quality, descriptive, and straight to the point.
Mazda owner here.. Great job man💯 Keep it coming really great information 👍
Well done sir. Only thing missing here is the lug nut torque spec, which is 85 foot pounds. Everything else was well explained.
My "stealer-ship" quoted me (as of Feb 2024) over $1400 to do these; not gonna happen. Have air tools, some experience & a free Saturday, piece of cake.
The Mevotech Supreme parts were mentioned elsewhere in comments. I've used them before on my Toyota and am well satisfied with their price, quality & performance/function.
Plus the ball joint on their control arms for this Mazda are greaseable instead of sealed/non-greaseable.
Again, good work sir. Like left. 👍
The best ever you make it look so easy 🔥 and fun also I’m definitely changing my Mazda army myself , thanks 🙏 so much
It is easy bro. You can totally do it and thank you so much for the support
That’s exactly what they doing at my Mazda 3 2016 in the agency (dealership) right now. 👍🏼 great video
Grate job sir. I'm from Quebec Canada with snow and salt so A lot of rust , look easy but for me with the rust on my Mazda CX 5 2014 I need more tools and penetrant w40 and spare push type clip because many will break. Thank you for the torque specification.
Very cool! Thanks. Wish it was that easy here in Canada.
Thank you for the walk thru and torque specs. Still sore because i have no uga-duga. I found my T-bar with a cheater was the perfect fit to break the front bolt by the oil pan, no swivel needed. The passenger side i used a 12" extension suported by a jack stand to get good leverage and break that big boy. But thats working off the ground with hand tools for ya.
you’re the best 🎉🎉🎉
New sub here. Excellent work. 👍🏽
Thank you very much my good Sir
My man, firstly, you didn't pre load the suspension before tightening the front horizontal bolt, this can cause the bush to squeak and will definitely limit the life of the front Bush in the control arm because of "over twist" when the suspension is compressed.
Secondly, you actually didn't set the correct torque for ANY bolt because you over torqued them with the impact gun FIRST ! Going around the bolts with the torque wrench after they're already over-torqued is telling you nothing. Just because it goes "click" doesn't mean a thing if they're all over tight to begin with.
Mr. Mazda in Da house!!!!
Keep it up bro!
Is this you bro?
@@CARDIAXPLAYS yes sir the one and only bookunator! Love ya dude
Thanks Bro❤
should the bushings be torqued down with the tires on the ground instead?
Could they cause vibration in reverse with brake pressed down?
Nice technical video. It seems a shame to replace the entire arm just for a busted bushing. But if labor hours are lower to replace the full arm, that speaks to a Mazda engineering oversight.
Problem is after market bushings never fit correctly.
What's the estimated cost for this repair? I need to do both of my front control arms on my 2016 Mazda 6. Arms look to be about $440 for OEM parts right now. How much labor time is involved for a pro to get this done?
Awesome wheels, I think those would have originally came on a CX-5. I think the Sport 17" wheels of the 3rd gen are way better looking that the swept 5 spoke Touring and GT wheels
How do you do the driver side?
Excellent video, how many miles does this car had? I used to have a 2016 in red, traded it in for a 2021 Turbo HB
It had about 90'000 on it. I love the 4th gen hatch by the way. I feel like its under rated. I wish they offered it in a manual trans. It would be a hot hatch to content with.
@@CARDIAXPLAYS they do have a 4th gen Mazda3 HB with a 6 speed, just with the 2.5 NA and FWD. So no turbo and no AWD
Good stuff here,,,,,,best Mazda tech on the U
Thanks you soo much.
Great video!!!! Do remember what brand part you installed? Also, I have an 2014 Japan made model Mazda 3. Mazda part breakdowns show 2 diff control arms Japan and Mexico. Do you think there's any fitment issue? Many thanks.
The control arms installed were OEM Mazda3 control arms. I believe that OEM is the best way to go.
@@CARDIAXPLAYSdo you have a link to the oem part? I have a japanese built
This is a doable DIY. You'll need that breaker bar and a 1/2 torque wrench as a few bolts require crazy high torque.. 175 ft/lbs on one for example. You can buy the bushings/ball joints aftermarket or OEM and replace but it's easier to just buy a new one and replace the whole thing.. I used Mevotech's.
mevotech original grade or supreme? looks like a good option on RockAuto, close to $160 or so after ship and tax for a front pair
Beast
The passenger side was easy thanks to the video! BUT, the driver side big bolt (the one with 158+ torque) is impossible to get out b/c of the transmission pan. HELP!
I have to change mine 2 times because moog failed me after 1 year for both sides. The new ones doesnt look any better. For those doing your own, go oem. Moog sucks now
Is it true that to properly torque the bolts, the car needs to be sitting flat on the round like it's parked and not on the lift?
Yes it's true, but only for horizontal bolts that go through a Bushing, like the front "through" Bolt on this Mazda 3. The reason is that when the suspension is under the weight of the car, the Bushing is supposed to be "relaxed" (not twisted),
Failing to do this limits the life of the Bushing and causes it to squeak over bumps etc.
If you tighten the horizontal bolts while the suspension is dangling, the Bush is "relaxed" in this position. Then when the car is back on the ground, the Bush is ALREADY under tension and somewhat twisted. This means that when the suspension is at or near its fully compressed state, (potholes etc.) the Bush will start to tear under the abnormal twist range it's being asked to deliver.
If ever you have a new control arm fitted by a garage and it squeaks, and the Mechanic says "it's just 'cos it's new" don't believe him, he was probably too lazy to preload the suspension.
The guy in this video has not loaded the suspension before tightening the front horizontal bolt, nor has correctly torqued any bolt up because he over-iorqued everything with his rattle gun first !!. Then he went around every bolt with the torque wrench as if he correctly torqued everything up ! The customer may have squeaks and be back with a torn Bush sooner than he ought to be.
ALL the bolts were over torqued since you have used impact gun to begin tightening. 😅 It is clear, when you try to tighten using torque wrench.
Other than that it is great video.
I think he did one mistake in that front bolt i was told it needed to be tighten with the weight of the car on it in order for it not be constantly twisted but i'm no expert. unless the front bushing turn in the controle arm.
I hear clunking noise in front of my Mazda 2015. Not sure if the bushings of thee control arms are shut or my suspensions are done. Maybe both. I’ll have the dealership check it out and I’ll do it myself since my stealership people are crooks 😂😂😂 nice video keep them how to video coming!!
Hi, please how many miles had that Mazda when you change these arms. I have 93 500 so i ask when i should approx. Prepare for change many thx
Hi Michal. I would do a visual inspection on them first. Your lower control arms might still be in great condition.
108k miles on a 2016 mazda sport, mine are due for a change
no need for alignment after replacing these?
I would recommend one but my shop does not have an alignment machine.
Question can the ball joint can be replaced?
No, it's integral to the control arm, so you have to replace the entire arm.
What is a reasonable price to replace both arms in the front? I was quoted 1500
front lower control arm assemblies cost $150-200 for the pair on rock auto. Based on the video looks like one could do it in a couple hours. That being said, labor at a shop will always cost more. But for ONLY both front control arms, that sounds like a rip off
I'm having trouble removing the first 19 mm bolt in the front my breaker bar can't get in there .
The transmission pan is in the way on the driver side
Impact
Hope the top one is easy
where are you located?
West Texas. The Permian Basin
Nobody want to video the driver side for this car 🤦♀
He said in the video it's the same as the passenger side, so what's the problem?
@@jeffwest5551 it’s not because access is different
Yep done mine not to long ago. Driver side is a pain in the butt as you need to remove a bolt from the transmission housing and jack the motor up. Then pry the motor forward to remove the bolt located near the air compressor. Definitely not the same as the passenger side 😩
😂 😂 😂 if you have an auto that trans pan is in your way. Thankfully I have a manual transmission so I had plenty of room
@@cleanwhite6527same!
It's ridiculous that you have to replace the entire control arm just because a piece of rubber has gone bad instead of just replacing the rubber. The kind of weathering steel used by the 3rd party brands isn't the same steel car manufacture has used.