This is the best explained and most informative injection pump rebuild video I’ve ever seen so far ! Thank you thank you for your time to make this for us . Great job ! Hopefully I see more from you my dude ..
I think a lot of the performance issues over time with the ALH TDIs has to do with the electronic IQ on top of the pump becoming gummed-up with diesel sludge over time. I soaked my IQ in AFT+4 fluid for +7 days and the spring are moved like new again. TDI Love from Chicago
Thanks for watching... The IQ (injection quantity) controller on top of the ALH diesel pump is part mechanical and part electronic. I guess with an Arduino you could switch between economy and sports modes. That would be interesting to see implemented. Keep me updated. TDI Love from Chicago... (Where it is HOT by lake Michigan, but the water is always cool)
Thanks for this small gem of info, i pulled all this apart to give my motor some maintenance and at this point even the bentley manual only covers the one piece pump gear. You need this info on the two piece gear to set it up because no woodruff key is used to aid in clocking it in properly despite having the keyway present!!!.... at first i thought the key may have fell out without me seeing, but the hub piece has no slot in it for a key so its press fit. Only you seem to know the secret. Thanks
@GallowayChicago I completed the tear down of an 11mm pump, everything seemed to have went well. When I finished I removed the locking key and turned it almost 180 degrees (no ideal where my head was at) I quickly turned it back and checked the timing mark on the pump with the key on the shaft and it was very close again? pretty much right on. Do you think I caused any problems? thank you
Hi! Thanks for the in depth video. The relieve valve sets the pressure inside the pump? If yes, how? If you push the safety clip inside is should rise the pressure? How much should one push it to achieve a higher pressure? Is a higher pressure inside the case better for bigger injectors 0.320 ? Should I leave the case pressure as it is if I am going to get a software tune? I hear the case pressure will only affect the advance until 2500 rpm. Thank you and looking forward to your answer !
Thanks for watching. I am in no way an expert in diesel pumps, but: You are mistaking pressure with volume. If you are going to use bigger injectors you need more diesel volume. The largest oem pump are the pumps in the automatic diesel autos. If you already have an automatic diesel pump then the next upgrade to achieve more power is a larger turbo. Here, you have many turbo oem and non-oem options. please contact Metalnerd.com at www.metalnerd.com. he knows everything about diesels.
the pressure is set by the piston being pushed up into the hole until it reaches the holes. The ring in the end only holds it together. It will basically work ok until the ring and plunger falls out.
Thank for watching mighty rd28 4x4. The assumption is that the engine is top-dead-center on the first cylinder when you are doing the timing or removing the diesel pump. Think of the shaft keyway as a pointer that points to which cylinder is going to get diesel at what time. If the keyway is pointing 180 degrees out of phase then the wrong cylinder is getting fuel at the wrong time. The position of the shaft is very important, and anyone that tells you otherwise is just wrong. Diesel Love from Chicago...
Question from: mighty rd28 4x4... He asks: Yep. I got one question, the shaft for the pump can go any way you like? Right? Is it what sets the 180 out of time on the diesel pump?
Thank for watching mighty rd28 4x4. Think of the shaft keyway as a pointer that points to which cylinder is going to get diesel at what time. If the keyway is pointing 180 degrees out of phase then the wrong cylinder is getting fuel at the wrong time. The position of the shaft is very important, and anyone that tells you otherwise is just wrong. Diesel Love from Chicago...
Video is pretty detailed and helpful, but I wish you would’ve extended the video and showed the complete reassembly of the pump for the less knowledgeable people..
Thanks for watching... Igor Dimoski has already done an outstanding video on the (MK3) 1.9 TDI DIESEL PUMP assembly (link: th-cam.com/video/avTDuvkRBW8/w-d-xo.html) TDI Love from Chicago...
Idk have a question for you though . I have to rebuild my 10mm I have a tune and bigger injectors . Basically I bought the 165hp kit from Kerma including the 3” exhaust . A HUGE DIFFERENCE! I even Tow w my wagon and it pulls like an SOB ! My question to you is how well do you think the 12mm pump upgrade would work out for me w what I have installed ?? I was gonna buy an 11mm but then came across these 12mm pump upgrades on eBay for like $150 . What’s your opinion my dude ?
I have not seen the 12mm. is it a knock-off or a genuine VW OEM pump. the 10mm and 11mm have been proven and as long as you get a rebuild one or rebuild it yourself you should have many fun years of dependable service. I have seen some wild cheap/cheaply-made eBay products and for the most part "you get what you pay for". Hell, I just looked right now on eBay and new/refurbished 10mm ALH pumps are still selling for $1,150 USD. I could not find any listing for a 12mm ALH pump. I know what you mean about towing much larger autos. My brother has a 1971 Ford Mustang convertible and call me one day to help him out with a tow. He was surprised when I showed up with my little 1.9L TDI Golf. Towing is the only time when I can now recommend a Single-Mass Flywheel (only if you do 25% towing or more), but for a day-to-day fun ride Dual-Mass Flywheels are now build well enough to be dependable. People looked on in amazement a I towed if down the street. TDI Love from Chicago.
It 100% worked and is still working today. There is a re-build kit you need to buy from ebay. But my little TDI would not start and when it finally did it had 0% power. After the rebuild it ran 1000% better. Cleaning the Electronic Quantity Control is what really did the trick, but there was nasty goo at the bottom of the pump too. TDI Love from Chicago...
If you are asking if you can remove the IP/IQ/AQ assemble from the top of the Diesel pump without removing the pump? Then the answer is YES. For one of the bolts you need a special tool or a Dremel tool and a large flat-head screw driver, But everything else is straight forwarded. Take a look at the following TH-cam video for guidance: th-cam.com/video/nd50iJIlvkI/w-d-xo.html. It is very important to remove the IQ assemble completely before opening the unit to check for wear. Pay special attention to the spring response before recovering the IQ assemble. Use silicone RTV and a cut out 12/16oz clear pop bottle to set the IQ bolts once you are done cleaning the unit. If you clean the IQ right the motor will run better then new. TDI Love from Chicago.
Hey, my TDI Brother from another mother! Where do you buy parts for these pumps? I have the 10mm off an '03 and I need to get the #4 injector port on the pump head. Any advise is much appreciated!
Did you find parts? Here in Chicago I can find diesel pumps in the junk yards. The yards sell them as fuel pumps. Lol. I don't know of any online retailer that seals rebuild kits or parts for these pumps. I made this video because My pump was full of gunk and I found a parts one in the junk yard, but could not find any info on how to rebuild them.
I found an 11mm pump at a wrecking yard, but the injector ports were already removed. Do you happen to know if they are the same as the ports in the 10mm pump head? Thanks!
Sitting for almost 2 years? The 06 I just bought was sitting for 2 or more years, so the pump is probably what is making the bad noise. Still tearing it down, haven't found the problem yet. How do you set/adjust the timing on the pump?? - thanks, take care
Thanks for watching. All the pumps are set with a static timing. That is to say that even though you could make adjustments inside the pump, it is NEVER recommended to adjust the timing on the pump side. Instead standard timing adjustments are done with the three bolts attached to the front of the pump. You need a VCDS or Vag-Com to identify timing adjustment requirements. But to make the adjustment you move the diesel pump front cam gear (after loosing the front three bolt) by tiny increments unteal the VCDS graph shows optimum timing. TDI Love from Chicago.
I used a metal polish called "Mother's" sold here in the states to polish every metal part inside the pump. Some parts seemed fine but moved like they were stuck together with glue. After polishing everything moved like new. I use the Mother's and a High speed Drimel tool. On the ports I used Brake Part cleaner with the straw. The IQ one top I soaked for 7 days in Clean ATF+4 Trans Fluid. The spring arm was not returning to the stop position. After soaking it moved like new again.
@@GallowayChicago Okay cool, thanks for the info man. It was my tired DMFlywheel in the dsg rattling. Still learning about the pumps & basic diesel theory. Aside from the old DMF rattling sound, how do you think it sounds? : th-cam.com/video/U83W87hVxBI/w-d-xo.html My know it all smart arse mechanic buddy said he could hear a "miss & pump timing off" er something like that.
@@GallowayChicago You seen any decent videos showing the pump fine tuning like you mentioned? I'd like to see it even though I'm NOT planning on touching it anytime soon. thanks again, - take care
My research revealed: the EDM pumps (Mk4 ALH, electronically controlled,) have 20mm shafts (older VE pumps have a 17mm shaft). The seal dimensions are 20mm (ID) x 31mm (OD) X 7.3 mm (thk) the Bosch number of the 20mm ID seal is F 01M 100 984. I found two other seal numbers that may interchange Rave TG20 31 7.3 3 and the one in the pump you film (best I can make out) Kaco 52 (or 5Z?) DF20 51(or 31) 7.3 TVF03. I was able to find a seller on ebay for about $15. I can't understand why NO kit comes with this seal and how it's near impossible to find someone selling it (and indicating that it fits the EDM pumps). My Jetta has developed long crank to start issue. I have checked everything else and am ready to go though the pump but I'm not pulling is out and apart until I have all the seals!
@@GallowayChicago Hey, thanks for the reply. As to you question, no, I was talking about the front pump shaft seal (red/orange). Maybe they NEVER fail. I what to change it in case it is letting air into the pump and allowing fuel drain back or something. It is not leaking fuel out.
@@petersherrouse33 When I bought the eBay rebuild kit it came with the front pump seal. examples: www.ebay.com/itm/143881826646? and www.ebay.com/itm/144021944384?
@@petersherrouse33 way to think ahead. I usually just dive head long into the problem and solve it as I go. Really some of the big questions don't appear until the tear-down is done. Remember polish the hell out of those rollers and roller shafts. My rollers were almost fused together with the shafts and as a result were rubbing against the pump body. I used "Mother's Chrome Polish". And don't forget to open the bottom of the pump (cold start adjuster). All kinds of goo gets stuck in there. Good luck to you mate. TDI Love from Chicago.
Yes, after you take it all apart and really clean all the old diesel carp off these pumps remind you that they were built to run forever (or at least for a very long time. putting it back together was not that hard (4 on a 1-to-10 scale). These pumps are amazing. The 11mm is well worth the upgrade for manual transmission drivers. More speed and better fuel economy. The best of both worlds. The IQ (the electronic part on top of the high-pressure pump which controls Injection Quantity) was sticking so I soaked it for almost a week. I guess you can soak it in isopropaline alcohol too, but I used Chem-Dip Carburetor & Parts Cleaner. When you turn the IQ arm (which happens when you press down of the accelerator pedal) the arm should immediacy spring back. My IQ was not turning all the way. I thought I was going to have to buy a new pump, but I went to my local junk yard and luckily found a 11mm diesel pump to practice on. I found out that most of the tar like crap is in the bottom of the pump and once you clean that junk out the pump and IQ work a lot better, but polishing and completely cleaning the pump makes it better then new. TDI Love from Chicago.
It is hard but not impossible to find them in junkyards. I would suggest trying eBay first (examples are itm#:264916156748 or 373451322804). it is reasonable to expect a price range from $200 for a clean unrebuilt unit to as much as $500 for a ready to install rebuilt unit with gears and everything. Hope that helps. The two examples are current and priced at $290 rebuilt and $170 unknown. You must make sure the units are 11mm and will fit your application. These pumps are not hard to tear down but require time to put back together again. The hardest part is pulling the front gear, but the electronic IP must be tested for spring return even on rebuilt units. As a reference these pumps in 2005 were over $3,000 us dollars but now being 19 years beyond the last production date of these amazing little diesels the price should be between $200-$500. I reassembled my unit with 100% Silicone gear lube. the lower part of the pump and the IP are prone to gumming up with diesel gel, but cleaning with 2 or 3 cans of break cleaner in a well ventilated area does the trick. I would like to repeat; taking the pump apart is easy after removing the front gear. Cleaning the almost all metal pump is easy. As long as you can turn the pump three rotations it should be a good candidate for a rebuild. I was only able to find Russian TH-cam videos on cleaning the IP to verify appropriate spring return. I soaked my IP in a can of parts cleaner for 1 week to loosen up the return spring, but a rebuilt pump should verify a proper IP response. The unit I show in the video was found a a local junkyard and I was lucky enough to get it for under $50, but this is not typical and generally eBay is you current best resource. I still don't know how to visually tell an 11mm pump from a 10mm pump. So, you should go by part number and/or eBay descriptions. Lastly make sure the IP cable has not been cut or you will have to replace or rebuild the IP which is a pain. look at some eBay item picture and you will see what I mean. The good news is a clean/rebuilt diesel pump properly installed and timed should make your car run like new again and eBay still has rebuild kits from $20 to $50 for these pumps (ex: 162096676117). Good luck. TDI Love from Chicago...
@@GallowayChicago thank you!! Wow a lot to think about. The car ran pretty good today, only made noise for a few minutes and then settled down. I will read more about adding ATF+4 and the risks involved, currently have the TC-W3 added which seems to help. I think your advice about not touching it until it's broken is wise!! Will keep my eyes out for a 11mm pump! Thanks again for the tips!
This is the best explained and most informative injection pump rebuild video I’ve ever seen so far ! Thank you thank you for your time to make this for us . Great job ! Hopefully I see more from you my dude ..
You're such a boss! Thanks for this awesome video!
Happy to help!
Damn son! Good on you for putting this on the internet.
I think a lot of the performance issues over time with the ALH TDIs has to do with the electronic IQ on top of the pump becoming gummed-up with diesel sludge over time. I soaked my IQ in AFT+4 fluid for +7 days and the spring are moved like new again.
TDI Love from Chicago
cool, thanks for showing this... I thought it would be cool to control one of these pumps with an Arduino... maybe a future project for me...
Thanks for watching... The IQ (injection quantity) controller on top of the ALH diesel pump is part mechanical and part electronic. I guess with an Arduino you could switch between economy and sports modes. That would be interesting to see implemented. Keep me updated.
TDI Love from Chicago... (Where it is HOT by lake Michigan, but the water is always cool)
Thanks for this small gem of info, i pulled all this apart to give my motor some maintenance and at this point even the bentley manual only covers the one piece pump gear. You need this info on the two piece gear to set it up because no woodruff key is used to aid in clocking it in properly despite having the keyway present!!!.... at first i thought the key may have fell out without me seeing, but the hub piece has no slot in it for a key so its press fit. Only you seem to know the secret. Thanks
Very welcome
Awesome video ! Thanks ✌
Thank you so much for this!
@GallowayChicago I completed the tear down of an 11mm pump, everything seemed to have went well. When I finished I removed the locking key and turned it almost 180 degrees (no ideal where my head was at) I quickly turned it back and checked the timing mark on the pump with the key on the shaft and it was very close again? pretty much right on. Do you think I caused any problems? thank you
Hi! Thanks for the in depth video. The relieve valve sets the pressure inside the pump? If yes, how? If you push the safety clip inside is should rise the pressure? How much should one push it to achieve a higher pressure? Is a higher pressure inside the case better for bigger injectors 0.320 ? Should I leave the case pressure as it is if I am going to get a software tune? I hear the case pressure will only affect the advance until 2500 rpm. Thank you and looking forward to your answer !
Thanks for watching. I am in no way an expert in diesel pumps, but: You are mistaking pressure with volume. If you are going to use bigger injectors you need more diesel volume. The largest oem pump are the pumps in the automatic diesel autos. If you already have an automatic diesel pump then the next upgrade to achieve more power is a larger turbo. Here, you have many turbo oem and non-oem options. please contact Metalnerd.com at www.metalnerd.com. he knows everything about diesels.
the pressure is set by the piston being pushed up into the hole until it reaches the holes. The ring in the end only holds it together. It will basically work ok until the ring and plunger falls out.
@@petersherrouse33 I welded it in place, it should remain the same. Thanks for the answer!
Yep i got on question the shaft for pump can go anyway you like it's not what sets the 180 out
Thank for watching
mighty rd28 4x4. The assumption is that the engine is top-dead-center on the first cylinder when you are doing the timing or removing the diesel pump. Think of the shaft keyway as a pointer that points to which cylinder is going to get diesel at what time. If the keyway is pointing 180 degrees out of phase then the wrong cylinder is getting fuel at the wrong time. The position of the shaft is very important, and anyone that tells you otherwise is just wrong.
Diesel Love from Chicago...
Thank you so much I really needed it
You are so welcome. I actually broke my cheap Harber-F. puller on on the second pump.
GallowayChicago ok I just always pry on them and tap it with a bigger hammer 🔨 and it usually works. I am butting a tdi alh into a boat
WOW! These little TDIs are really strong. Make sure your adapter is a solid one. Good luck.
Question from: mighty rd28 4x4... He asks:
Yep. I got one question, the shaft for the pump can go any way you like? Right? Is it what sets the 180 out of time on the diesel pump?
Thank for watching
mighty rd28 4x4. Think of the shaft keyway as a pointer that points to which cylinder is going to get diesel at what time. If the keyway is pointing 180 degrees out of phase then the wrong cylinder is getting fuel at the wrong time. The position of the shaft is very important, and anyone that tells you otherwise is just wrong.
Diesel Love from Chicago...
Video is pretty detailed and helpful, but I wish you would’ve extended the video and showed the complete reassembly of the pump for the less knowledgeable people..
Thanks for watching... Igor Dimoski has already done an outstanding video on the (MK3) 1.9 TDI DIESEL PUMP assembly (link: th-cam.com/video/avTDuvkRBW8/w-d-xo.html)
TDI Love from Chicago...
Idk have a question for you though . I have to rebuild my 10mm I have a tune and bigger injectors . Basically I bought the 165hp kit from Kerma including the 3” exhaust . A HUGE DIFFERENCE! I even Tow w my wagon and it pulls like an SOB ! My question to you is how well do you think the 12mm pump upgrade would work out for me w what I have installed ?? I was gonna buy an 11mm but then came across these 12mm pump upgrades on eBay for like $150 . What’s your opinion my dude ?
I have not seen the 12mm. is it a knock-off or a genuine VW OEM pump. the 10mm and 11mm have been proven and as long as you get a rebuild one or rebuild it yourself you should have many fun years of dependable service. I have seen some wild cheap/cheaply-made eBay products and for the most part "you get what you pay for". Hell, I just looked right now on eBay and new/refurbished 10mm ALH pumps are still selling for $1,150 USD. I could not find any listing for a 12mm ALH pump.
I know what you mean about towing much larger autos. My brother has a 1971 Ford Mustang convertible and call me one day to help him out with a tow. He was surprised when I showed up with my little 1.9L TDI Golf. Towing is the only time when I can now recommend a Single-Mass Flywheel (only if you do 25% towing or more), but for a day-to-day fun ride Dual-Mass Flywheels are now build well enough to be dependable. People looked on in amazement a I towed if down the street.
TDI Love from Chicago.
The 11mm pump will supply more than enough fuel for that config
thank you!
You're welcome!
so did it work? Did you have to send to somrine to be calibrated?
It 100% worked and is still working today. There is a re-build kit you need to buy from ebay. But my little TDI would not start and when it finally did it had 0% power. After the rebuild it ran 1000% better. Cleaning the Electronic Quantity Control is what really did the trick, but there was nasty goo at the bottom of the pump too.
TDI Love from Chicago...
Can I pull the head unit out without taking rest of the pump apart? My o ring is leaking.
If you are asking if you can remove the IP/IQ/AQ assemble from the top of the Diesel pump without removing the pump? Then the answer is YES. For one of the bolts you need a special tool or a Dremel tool and a large flat-head screw driver, But everything else is straight forwarded. Take a look at the following TH-cam video for guidance: th-cam.com/video/nd50iJIlvkI/w-d-xo.html. It is very important to remove the IQ assemble completely before opening the unit to check for wear. Pay special attention to the spring response before recovering the IQ assemble. Use silicone RTV and a cut out 12/16oz clear pop bottle to set the IQ bolts once you are done cleaning the unit. If you clean the IQ right the motor will run better then new.
TDI Love from Chicago.
Hey, my TDI Brother from another mother! Where do you buy parts for these pumps? I have the 10mm off an '03 and I need to get the #4 injector port on the pump head. Any advise is much appreciated!
Did you find parts? Here in Chicago I can find diesel pumps in the junk yards. The yards sell them as fuel pumps. Lol. I don't know of any online retailer that seals rebuild kits or parts for these pumps. I made this video because My pump was full of gunk and I found a parts one in the junk yard, but could not find any info on how to rebuild them.
I found an 11mm pump at a wrecking yard, but the injector ports were already removed. Do you happen to know if they are the same as the ports in the 10mm pump head? Thanks!
Sitting for almost 2 years? The 06 I just bought was sitting for 2 or more years, so the pump is probably what is making the bad noise. Still tearing it down, haven't found the problem yet.
How do you set/adjust the timing on the pump??
- thanks, take care
Thanks for watching. All the pumps are set with a static timing. That is to say that even though you could make adjustments inside the pump, it is NEVER recommended to adjust the timing on the pump side. Instead standard timing adjustments are done with the three bolts attached to the front of the pump. You need a VCDS or Vag-Com to identify timing adjustment requirements. But to make the adjustment you move the diesel pump front cam gear (after loosing the front three bolt) by tiny increments unteal the VCDS graph shows optimum timing.
TDI Love from Chicago.
I used a metal polish called "Mother's" sold here in the states to polish every metal part inside the pump. Some parts seemed fine but moved like they were stuck together with glue. After polishing everything moved like new. I use the Mother's and a High speed Drimel tool. On the ports I used Brake Part cleaner with the straw. The IQ one top I soaked for 7 days in Clean ATF+4 Trans Fluid. The spring arm was not returning to the stop position. After soaking it moved like new again.
@@GallowayChicago Okay cool, thanks for the info man. It was my tired DMFlywheel in the dsg rattling. Still learning about the pumps & basic diesel theory. Aside from the old DMF rattling sound, how do you think it sounds? : th-cam.com/video/U83W87hVxBI/w-d-xo.html My know it all smart arse mechanic buddy said he could hear a "miss & pump timing off" er something like that.
@@GallowayChicago You seen any decent videos showing the pump fine tuning like you mentioned? I'd like to see it even though I'm NOT planning on touching it anytime soon. thanks again, - take care
Actually haven't driven it enough to get an idea on my mileage, but it should get about 40mpg ?
I can almost read the number off the shaft seal. I'm having a hard time finding one for sale.
Thanks for watching. Are you talking about the large metal washer that is on the main shaft?
My research revealed: the EDM pumps (Mk4 ALH, electronically controlled,) have 20mm shafts (older VE pumps have a 17mm shaft). The seal dimensions are 20mm (ID) x 31mm (OD) X 7.3 mm (thk) the Bosch number of the 20mm ID seal is F 01M 100 984. I found two other seal numbers that may interchange Rave TG20 31 7.3 3 and the one in the pump you film (best I can make out) Kaco 52 (or 5Z?) DF20 51(or 31) 7.3 TVF03. I was able to find a seller on ebay for about $15. I can't understand why NO kit comes with this seal and how it's near impossible to find someone selling it (and indicating that it fits the EDM pumps). My Jetta has developed long crank to start issue. I have checked everything else and am ready to go though the pump but I'm not pulling is out and apart until I have all the seals!
@@GallowayChicago Hey, thanks for the reply. As to you question, no, I was talking about the front pump shaft seal (red/orange). Maybe they NEVER fail. I what to change it in case it is letting air into the pump and allowing fuel drain back or something. It is not leaking fuel out.
@@petersherrouse33 When I bought the eBay rebuild kit it came with the front pump seal. examples: www.ebay.com/itm/143881826646? and www.ebay.com/itm/144021944384?
@@petersherrouse33 way to think ahead. I usually just dive head long into the problem and solve it as I go. Really some of the big questions don't appear until the tear-down is done. Remember polish the hell out of those rollers and roller shafts. My rollers were almost fused together with the shafts and as a result were rubbing against the pump body. I used "Mother's Chrome Polish". And don't forget to open the bottom of the pump (cold start adjuster). All kinds of goo gets stuck in there. Good luck to you mate. TDI Love from Chicago.
I tried this, took the pump apart and lined everything up and the pump timing was still off. The line did not help
You probably placed the internal parts 180° off. It's possible and sucks to do
Hi what is the correct torque for shaft nut sprocket
I can not find Torque but I found this: forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/alh-injection-pump-rehabilitation-reseal.369621/
Did you get it running
Yes, after you take it all apart and really clean all the old diesel carp off these pumps remind you that they were built to run forever (or at least for a very long time. putting it back together was not that hard (4 on a 1-to-10 scale). These pumps are amazing. The 11mm is well worth the upgrade for manual transmission drivers. More speed and better fuel economy. The best of both worlds. The IQ (the electronic part on top of the high-pressure pump which controls Injection Quantity) was sticking so I soaked it for almost a week. I guess you can soak it in isopropaline alcohol too, but I used Chem-Dip Carburetor & Parts Cleaner. When you turn the IQ arm (which happens when you press down of the accelerator pedal) the arm should immediacy spring back. My IQ was not turning all the way. I thought I was going to have to buy a new pump, but I went to my local junk yard and luckily found a 11mm diesel pump to practice on. I found out that most of the tar like crap is in the bottom of the pump and once you clean that junk out the pump and IQ work a lot better, but polishing and completely cleaning the pump makes it better then new.
TDI Love from Chicago.
I'm in Iowa City, my pump sounds like this: th-cam.com/video/nn8Jt_DfaH0/w-d-xo.html
Currently sourcing a 11mm IP, how much are they in Chicago?
It is hard but not impossible to find them in junkyards. I would suggest trying eBay first (examples are itm#:264916156748 or 373451322804). it is reasonable to expect a price range from $200 for a clean unrebuilt unit to as much as $500 for a ready to install rebuilt unit with gears and everything. Hope that helps. The two examples are current and priced at $290 rebuilt and $170 unknown. You must make sure the units are 11mm and will fit your application. These pumps are not hard to tear down but require time to put back together again. The hardest part is pulling the front gear, but the electronic IP must be tested for spring return even on rebuilt units. As a reference these pumps in 2005 were over $3,000 us dollars but now being 19 years beyond the last production date of these amazing little diesels the price should be between $200-$500. I reassembled my unit with 100% Silicone gear lube. the lower part of the pump and the IP are prone to gumming up with diesel gel, but cleaning with 2 or 3 cans of break cleaner in a well ventilated area does the trick. I would like to repeat; taking the pump apart is easy after removing the front gear. Cleaning the almost all metal pump is easy. As long as you can turn the pump three rotations it should be a good candidate for a rebuild. I was only able to find Russian TH-cam videos on cleaning the IP to verify appropriate spring return. I soaked my IP in a can of parts cleaner for 1 week to loosen up the return spring, but a rebuilt pump should verify a proper IP response. The unit I show in the video was found a a local junkyard and I was lucky enough to get it for under $50, but this is not typical and generally eBay is you current best resource. I still don't know how to visually tell an 11mm pump from a 10mm pump. So, you should go by part number and/or eBay descriptions. Lastly make sure the IP cable has not been cut or you will have to replace or rebuild the IP which is a pain. look at some eBay item picture and you will see what I mean. The good news is a clean/rebuilt diesel pump properly installed and timed should make your car run like new again and eBay still has rebuild kits from $20 to $50 for these pumps (ex: 162096676117). Good luck.
TDI Love from Chicago...
@@GallowayChicago thank you!! Wow a lot to think about. The car ran pretty good today, only made noise for a few minutes and then settled down. I will read more about adding ATF+4 and the risks involved, currently have the TC-W3 added which seems to help. I think your advice about not touching it until it's broken is wise!! Will keep my eyes out for a 11mm pump! Thanks again for the tips!