It amazes me how well you deal with all these opinions and advice. The need for modifications will show themselves . How well it works, will tell you how good a job you’re doing. Thanks for inviting us into your part of the world.
“After looking around for three best site and ensuring the best drop rate as well as shimming the barrel with North Carolina slate, we now have the water sorted and it’s time to start making *_moonshine_* !!! . . . . Oops, forgot what channel I was turned into. Thanks for the great information. Liked and Subscribed!
I used to manufacture rain barrels using uniseals. Always a good idea to deburr the holes before installing the uniseals to prevent damage and potential leaking.
The Uniseal doesn’t require a flat surface, then. That is very cool. With all your hose clamps, use a USCG requirement for all boat applications below the water line: double clamp them. The reason is that one clamp will always give out first, and when that happens you have a second clamp holding the connection until you replace the broken clamp. Your clean out idea is really good. I see a lot of creek installations and silt buildup is a constant issue. To further mitigate silt getting into your turbine feed line you might think about putting in a baffle in the drum so the turbulent water coming into the tank will calm and let the silt settle before it gets pulled into the outlet.
Oh yes I have a knife all the time. I have been wearing a pocket knife for around 20 years. I even dropped it in the lake 5 years ago and fished it out.
Loving the series so far. I hope you were able to cleanup most of the plastic from drilling the holes - hate to see more microplastic get into the ecosystem.
I would run the three-phase wiring all the way to your house and install the rectifier there so in the future if you use 3-phase equipment you'll be able to do so
Nice... you might want to consider a cavitation baffle in your intake box in an attempt to minimise the turbulence / bubble generation. Something like a 4" drain pipe cut in half and installed across the box - curved side up, under the screen where the water drops into your intake box. When you upgrade your intake I'd also consider something bigger and attempt to capture more water (there seems plenty). I'd also suggest a clean out / purge outlet with a valve on the side of your intake box and some valves on your feed pipes as sediment will also build up in your intake box and you'll be able to easily blast /clean it out with that approach. .Hi from NZ, looking forward to more updates. Great work!
That does sound like a good idea! Reducing the air bubbles might be well worth it. I do wonder if there is a time of low flow in the creek that there will still be air introduced in the three 1.25" pipes because of the air being sucked in.
This is too cool! Your overflow and silt clearing can be one in the same. 1" pipe through the barrel wall as close to the bottom as you can get it, add an elbow to then run it up the outside to your 'fill' line, then another elbow pointing outward to direct the overflow back toward the creek. As the water goes through the bottom fed overflow it will take bottom silt with it. Keep the 3" for occasional deep cleaning.
How often, do you think initially, will you have to clear out the sediment tank? In the dead cold of winter, will you have enough flow to prevent freezing? I'm thinking you will need to check the sediment level every Wednesday😉. 🦀
Bahaha most true statement ever. Wednesday will have the best flow rate but... full of silt. I probably should do a one month after video to see how much silt is in there. It has been around 3 weeks now. I turned off the turbine couple days ago and noticed there was a little bit of silt built up in the housing
I'M LATE "TO THE SHOW".... AND LOVE WHAT YOU'RE DOING!!!! QUESTIONS PLEASE, BASED ON WHAT I'VE RESEARCHED WITH OTHER SYSTEMS: I. Have you considered making a larger "catch box" under the small waterfall in the creek? * Or are there regulations in your area where you can't do that? * If you installed a "double portion" concrete box (has two internal sides inside one outer box to eliminate mud, sticks etc) under the waterfall, you could catch a much larger amount of water right from the start... before you route it to your 55 gallon drum. II. And, speaking of larger "catch boxes" for water... have you considered installing a larger water basin (maybe a large cement cistern with 1,500 gallons or more) and getting rid of your 55 gallon drum... or install multiple drums.... in order to have a larger reservoir of water as a "backup" to generate electricity for you and your family? Just curious!!!! My wife and I are retiring in Sept and moving to the Pac NW where we want to do the same thing you're doing. If you have any referrals for Hydro Experts in that area (OR, WA, ID, MT) it would be most appreciated. Thanks!!! Keep Up The Great Work!!! Mr Bowen Veteran BowenOrg@gmail.com
The rectifier is placed at this location to get an initial voltage reading. Later in the series the rectifier is moved to the end of the 250 feet of wire.
@@LandtoHouse hmm, I am installing a much larger tank. Winter is when my stream has max flow and I need the most power. Do you recommend that I omit the sediment tank? Im in NYs the hudson valley and my stream never freezes over anymore.
You should keep the 3phase till u get closer to the batter bank, dc does not travel long distances very well I’d put that converter very close to ur battery bank
In the past, after very heavy and lengthy rain storms, your ram pump base and pump were upset by the heavy flow of water. Do you foresee any issues like that with the collection box? While the turbine has been up and running, have you observed a significant water event that might have caused you concern over the stability of your system? Is there a way to divert very heavy flow upstream of the collection box to prevent damage to it? To me, the weakest part of your system is the collection box. Thought of any ways to "beefen" up that part? 🦀
We had a couple rains that pounded over 400 gpm down the intake box! SO far its going strong. I do need to hike up there and see what sediment is in the barrel.
Suggestion - Your over flow /air purge should only have a tiny hole (1/8") for an outlet to avoid losing your head pressure. The goal would be to use the smallest opening possible to vent the air and prevent structural failure of the barrel from over pressure.
Emblems4Life this isn’t a pressurized system at this point per sey, it simply goes down to having more water coming in than going out and needing to have the excess escape. Having a consistent amount of water in the barrel will provide a consistent head pressure and wouldn’t have the worry about blowouts from too much pressure
Austin Briles Thanks for responding. It seems that you could realize greater power production from your generator if you utilized all of the energy available given your potential volume and head pressure. Nice looking generator, and thanks for sharing your experience with us.
Did you ever try my idea for combining the overflow with a silt drain. The idea was to put a T on the silt drain pipe where it comes out of the barrel near the bottom. Then put a vertical pipe in the side of the T coming up the side of the barrel to the height you want the overflow at. Silt will run out anytime there is water coming out the overflow removing the silt continuously with the overflow as long as there is sufficient water coming out the overflow possibly eliminating the need for removing the plug to cleaning out the silt. It will also leave the option of removing the plug to remove silt the same way you have it set up now should it become necessary when there is insufficient water flow to overflow. If there isn't enough water for continuous overflow you might need to add another water supply pipe to the barrel.
I have seen those bottom sucker filters. They do work. And the good news is the silt is so fine it should travel up that style over flow just fine. Perhaps that will be an upgrade in the future. I will have to see how much buildup there is in a month.
I'm watching from the south Pacific and I find this very interesting and may try it here. Question is - where is the ' T' gonna be at, inside or outside the barrel?
@@nonutuisamoa1358 I was referring to adding it in to the drain after it came out of the barrel between the outside of the barrel and the plug in the pipe. I think the pipe he is using is too large with the volume of water he has. A smaller pipe would allow the water to travel through the pipe faster to make it possible for the silt to flush out so the size of the pipe needs to be matched to the excess water flow to make it run out fast enough to carry the silt out. If the generator uses all the water so there is no overflow it wouldn't work. A better way might be to drill another hole at the same level using a smaller pipe with an elbow and a vertical pipe to allow for greater water speed to carry the silt out but only if the water flow to the barrel is enough to run through the overflow continuously. An even better way would be to use a small pipe straight out the side as he has it and leave it open if there is always enough water flow to keep the water running through the overflow he put in near the top of the barrel when the turbine is running so there would be plenty of water to keep a good flow to the generator.
@@LandtoHouse Just had another thought. If you have enough water overflow at your barrel at all times when the micro Hydro is running it might work even better to just have a small pipe on the same level as the drain and let it run continuously but only if you always have excess water so it won't lower the water level in the barrel.
@@gordonwilloughby8793 Aloha Gordon! thank you so much for responding, I am happy to learn from you guys and thanks for sharing your ideas. I live here in the south Pacific and we have a lot of streams so I am following Seth series thinking of trying it to power my hydroponic garden and also try his ram pump to get water to the garden. Again, appreciate sharing your knowledge. Stay safe and God Bless.
I think I would have flipped the barrel upside down and used one of the two existing/threaded bungs for the clean out, by drilling an inch or 2 up, you're going to be left with an inch or 2 of sediment no matter what you do. Flipping it and using an existing bung you'll drain from the very bottom getting 99% of the sediment. Yeah, you would have had to drill 3 holes on the top(bottom) for your input, but they arent going to have pressure/weight of the water on them from the 40 or 50 gallons of water it takes to fill to the outlet and/or overflow, and I'm not sure if those Uniseals can take that long term. With the outlet you'll only have about 20 or 30 gallons of pressure and the weight is lateral not vertical.
For your sediment filter tube I would’ve just put a little half-inch or something on there and just let it drain all the time. That way the sediment would always just be flushing out of there anyway and you never have to do any maintenance on it, just make sure the flow is restricted enough to where you’re still getting enough water in your system, that’s why I would use a tiny pipe or even just a hole on the bottom of the barrel. Maybe you could put a valve on it to adjust
At some point I want to test out a treadmill motor that I have and also a hoverboard wheel motor. Not sure I will get to those this year but perhaps next year
@@LandtoHouse just thinking that the clean out pipe might freeze. How could you keep it from freezing? What do I know, just thinking. Great series and I will be installing a hydro at my property in West Virginia someday.
sir, i was watching at your Turbine Hydro Power installation , and i am very impress. i would like to buy the turbine hydro so please can you tell me where can i buy one for my self.
This system has been running a few weeks. 1 nozzle 200 watts. 2 nozzles 370 watts. i would have to add another 1.25" pipe out the intake box to run a 3red nozzle. 2" pupe can only transfer 39gpm at this length.
Ok.. you should have just followed the creek with your poly, if only to get the siphon working. As long as the lower end is lower than the intake it doesn’t matter about the ups and downs in between. The pressure you get is directly in proportion to the height difference between the intake and the lower outlet.
The Creek goes off to the side and would have increased my pinstock length by at least 50'. If air gets trapped in one of those high spots it greatly reduces the pressure at the bottom. I have found this to be very true so far
I would have put the three inlet pipes into the drum near the bottom of the drum. That will keep the gradient even. It will also cause the water to enter the drum smoother, therefore preventing the water from becoming aerated. Air in a penstock is bad.But good work so far.
That is an interesting idea. So far after a month of use the system is doing very well! I think that the air is hitting the water at the top of the tank and not going deeper into the water.
The largest animal that we have in this area is dear. They should not bother this set up. The only animal I can imagine causing any damage would be squirrels and chipmunks. Hopefully this set up is large enough that they will leave it alone. As for frogs and salamanders they should not be able to get into the system
Land to House just a little. Also, did you really need an overflow or could you have just let it back up to the inlet box perhaps helping flush the screen?
some info. tell yer sponsor, their design is Less-than excellent. cuz, at 2:49, 'you are actually getting' energy LOSS, at the right-angle plumbing components. supply-side plumbing Should result in, the combined flow of ALL jets being Equal to the Total available flow. googletranslate
It had to fit in a tight confined space . The main nozzle go straight in only running one nozzle most of the time pipe is more than sufficient for a 5/16 nozzle.
With only 12 gpm running most of the time the efficiency is just fine on the straight nozzle going into the turbine. When I do have more water to work with I can turn on another nozzle. My original calculation on max power was 350 watts. I have seen 370 watts. So... we are good.
@@SpencerLAPower okay. "most of the time pipe is more than sufficient for a 5/16 nozzle" this means what??? context is What.! a mention of 'flow rate' would seem to be appropriate. thx
@@LandtoHouse hmmmm. some fact-checking: a flow rate of Thirty gallons per Minute, equals Two Liters per Second. when that value is combined with the stated head, and Gravity, you get Two Hundred Thirty-four watts.... BEFORE Losses. curiouser and curiouser. d regarding silt: obviously, the system is short-on 'settling'.
@@SpencerLAPower this guy is on my channel as well with no helpful information as well, just keeps spitting out numbers on a paper. he has no real input on what to change or how to fine tune an of this no matter how its explained to him. David Davids has no use in life.
That is true. I would have wanted at least a brass valve to stay good in the weather. Those typically run about a $100. Vs $6 for the clean out cap. A full port ball valve 3" clean out was not in the budget.
@@LandtoHouse also a good idea for the overflow. With too much pressure in the lines it would have blown all the seals out. Would have been difficult to reinstall all of the connections.
@@LandtoHouse ever think of installing ball valve shut off valves on your three intake tubes, either up top or at your filter barrel? Would definitely make barrel maintenance easier without getting soaked, espec in colder weather.. ?
Project's looking great! By the way, check out this collaboration video these crazy Canadians did with one of your ram pumps. Be sure to watch for your appearance(s) near the end of the video! th-cam.com/video/ikPLJf_cndY/w-d-xo.html
It amazes me how well you deal with all these opinions and advice. The need for modifications will show themselves . How well it works, will tell you how good a job you’re doing. Thanks for inviting us into your part of the world.
With 1200 videos and 400,000+ comments i do see a lot of opinions haha. Thanks for watching!
“After looking around for three best site and ensuring the best drop rate as well as shimming the barrel with North Carolina slate, we now have the water sorted and it’s time to start making *_moonshine_* !!!
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Oops, forgot what channel I was turned into. Thanks for the great information. Liked and Subscribed!
I used to manufacture rain barrels using uniseals. Always a good idea to deburr the holes before installing the uniseals to prevent damage and potential leaking.
The Uniseal doesn’t require a flat surface, then. That is very cool. With all your hose clamps, use a USCG requirement for all boat applications below the water line: double clamp them. The reason is that one clamp will always give out first, and when that happens you have a second clamp holding the connection until you replace the broken clamp. Your clean out idea is really good. I see a lot of creek installations and silt buildup is a constant issue. To further mitigate silt getting into your turbine feed line you might think about putting in a baffle in the drum so the turbulent water coming into the tank will calm and let the silt settle before it gets pulled into the outlet.
Staying up late and seeing a great video from the other side of the world!. Thanks again mate. Keep 'em comin'
Thank you for staying up to watch! The full series will all come out at 8am here.
cheers mate, looking forward to the next installment!
Heck of a way to start off my Monday. Cool video even if I hadn’t known the full scale of the project. ✌️
Thanks! It's fun to see months of work come together in 3 hours of video.
Yes, you should have a pocketknife will you at all times. Come on scout, always be prepared.
Thanks for sharing the videos. Love the series.
Oh yes I have a knife all the time. I have been wearing a pocket knife for around 20 years. I even dropped it in the lake 5 years ago and fished it out.
Loving the series so far. I hope you were able to cleanup most of the plastic from drilling the holes - hate to see more microplastic get into the ecosystem.
Just a small sacrifice for the bigger project. 😁
I would run the three-phase wiring all the way to your house and install the rectifier there so in the future if you use 3-phase equipment you'll be able to do so
Nice videos! To put the 3' pipe into the conection fittings more easily you could use vaseline as a lubricant.
Nice... you might want to consider a cavitation baffle in your intake box in an attempt to minimise the turbulence / bubble generation. Something like a 4" drain pipe cut in half and installed across the box - curved side up, under the screen where the water drops into your intake box. When you upgrade your intake I'd also consider something bigger and attempt to capture more water (there seems plenty). I'd also suggest a clean out / purge outlet with a valve on the side of your intake box and some valves on your feed pipes as sediment will also build up in your intake box and you'll be able to easily blast /clean it out with that approach. .Hi from NZ, looking forward to more updates. Great work!
That does sound like a good idea! Reducing the air bubbles might be well worth it. I do wonder if there is a time of low flow in the creek that there will still be air introduced in the three 1.25" pipes because of the air being sucked in.
That is an awesome flow rate!
It sure is! That flow rate dropped in the summer closer to 14gpm.
I love this kind of video's.
Looks like you've thought how everything should and will go, but why didn't you prepare at home instead of in the woods?
That's a lot of plastic debris just dumped in the woods, indeed.
This is too cool!
Your overflow and silt clearing can be one in the same. 1" pipe through the barrel wall as close to the bottom as you can get it, add an elbow to then run it up the outside to your 'fill' line, then another elbow pointing outward to direct the overflow back toward the creek. As the water goes through the bottom fed overflow it will take bottom silt with it. Keep the 3" for occasional deep cleaning.
How often, do you think initially, will you have to clear out the sediment tank?
In the dead cold of winter, will you have enough flow to prevent freezing?
I'm thinking you will need to check the sediment level every Wednesday😉. 🦀
Bahaha most true statement ever. Wednesday will have the best flow rate but... full of silt.
I probably should do a one month after video to see how much silt is in there. It has been around 3 weeks now.
I turned off the turbine couple days ago and noticed there was a little bit of silt built up in the housing
I'M LATE "TO THE SHOW".... AND LOVE WHAT YOU'RE DOING!!!!
QUESTIONS PLEASE, BASED ON WHAT I'VE RESEARCHED WITH OTHER SYSTEMS:
I. Have you considered making a larger "catch box" under the small waterfall in the creek?
* Or are there regulations in your area where you can't do that?
* If you installed a "double portion" concrete box (has two internal sides inside one outer box to eliminate mud, sticks etc) under the waterfall, you could catch a much larger amount of water right from the start... before you route it to your 55 gallon drum.
II. And, speaking of larger "catch boxes" for water... have you considered installing a larger water basin (maybe a large cement cistern with 1,500 gallons or more) and getting rid of your 55 gallon drum... or install multiple drums.... in order to have a larger reservoir of water as a "backup" to generate electricity for you and your family?
Just curious!!!!
My wife and I are retiring in Sept and moving to the Pac NW where we want to do the same thing you're doing.
If you have any referrals for Hydro Experts in that area (OR, WA, ID, MT) it would be most appreciated.
Thanks!!!
Keep Up The Great Work!!!
Mr Bowen
Veteran
BowenOrg@gmail.com
This is exactly what I need. Where did you get the generator motor?
It is from Langston alternative power. There should be a link in the description. Contact Spencer and he will help with all your hydro questions.
at 3:15, you may know that the rectifier does NOT go, at the pma. otherwise, the line losses, when running DC, will be MUCH greater.
The rectifier is placed at this location to get an initial voltage reading. Later in the series the rectifier is moved to the end of the 250 feet of wire.
How much head are you loosing for filling this barrel? Enjoyed the series thanks very much for taking the time to share it.
Its around 2 feet from the 2" pipe to the intake. So like 2 or 3 watts.
@@LandtoHouse thanks it's difficult to perceive the height on just 2D video
Hello Seth, I see in a later video that you turn your system off in the winter. Will the water in the catchment barrel freeze even if its running?
I left that running with the drain plug open. No issues but it might freeze if I left 55 gallons in there.
@@LandtoHouse hmm, I am installing a much larger tank. Winter is when my stream has max flow and I need the most power. Do you recommend that I omit the sediment tank? Im in NYs the hudson valley and my stream never freezes over anymore.
You should keep the 3phase till u get closer to the batter bank, dc does not travel long distances very well I’d put that converter very close to ur battery bank
Nice... very usefull sir😂👍🏼
Why not linked another pipe from the wasted valves pool??
I have definitely downloaded your videos incase I need to go off grid
awesome series!
Thank you. This hydro series has been really fun! I have a series coming up moving the electronics to an outdoor power shed.
Could you have a small hole (1/8th inch) in the drain pipe at the bottom so there is always some sediment drain off?
Possibly. I wonder if that would drain too much water in my case. There are times when I have to turnoff the unit because of low flow.
Hey fam, if you turned your intake around so the screen gets direct hit from the water, I feel you would get more GPS
In the past, after very heavy and lengthy rain storms, your ram pump base and pump were upset by the heavy flow of water.
Do you foresee any issues like that with the collection box?
While the turbine has been up and running, have you observed a significant water event that might have caused you concern over the stability of your system?
Is there a way to divert very heavy flow upstream of the collection box to prevent damage to it?
To me, the weakest part of your system is the collection box. Thought of any ways to "beefen" up that part? 🦀
We had a couple rains that pounded over 400 gpm down the intake box! SO far its going strong. I do need to hike up there and see what sediment is in the barrel.
Suggestion - Your over flow /air purge should only have a tiny hole (1/8") for an outlet to avoid losing your head pressure.
The goal would be to use the smallest opening possible to vent the air and prevent structural failure of the barrel from over pressure.
Emblems4Life this isn’t a pressurized system at this point per sey, it simply goes down to having more water coming in than going out and needing to have the excess escape. Having a consistent amount of water in the barrel will provide a consistent head pressure and wouldn’t have the worry about blowouts from too much pressure
Austin Briles Thanks for responding. It seems that you could realize greater power production from your generator if you utilized all of the energy available given your potential volume and head pressure.
Nice looking generator, and thanks for sharing your experience with us.
The head pressure lost from the screened intake down to the barrel is only about 2'. It's not too bad of loss. Perhaps 3 watts total.
Land to House Any idea of your actual power generation? Voltage and Watts?
WHY am I so into these?!
I get that. Some of my favorite youtube content too.
Did you ever try my idea for combining the overflow with a silt drain. The idea was to put a T on the silt drain pipe where it comes out of the barrel near the bottom. Then put a vertical pipe in the side of the T coming up the side of the barrel to the height you want the overflow at. Silt will run out anytime there is water coming out the overflow removing the silt continuously with the overflow as long as there is sufficient water coming out the overflow possibly eliminating the need for removing the plug to cleaning out the silt. It will also leave the option of removing the plug to remove silt the same way you have it set up now should it become necessary when there is insufficient water flow to overflow. If there isn't enough water for continuous overflow you might need to add another water supply pipe to the barrel.
I have seen those bottom sucker filters. They do work. And the good news is the silt is so fine it should travel up that style over flow just fine. Perhaps that will be an upgrade in the future. I will have to see how much buildup there is in a month.
I'm watching from the south Pacific and I find this very interesting and may try it here. Question is - where is the ' T' gonna be at, inside or outside the barrel?
@@nonutuisamoa1358 I was referring to adding it in to the drain after it came out of the barrel between the outside of the barrel and the plug in the pipe. I think the pipe he is using is too large with the volume of water he has. A smaller pipe would allow the water to travel through the pipe faster to make it possible for the silt to flush out so the size of the pipe needs to be matched to the excess water flow to make it run out fast enough to carry the silt out. If the generator uses all the water so there is no overflow it wouldn't work. A better way might be to drill another hole at the same level using a smaller pipe with an elbow and a vertical pipe to allow for greater water speed to carry the silt out but only if the water flow to the barrel is enough to run through the overflow continuously. An even better way would be to use a small pipe straight out the side as he has it and leave it open if there is always enough water flow to keep the water running through the overflow he put in near the top of the barrel when the turbine is running so there would be plenty of water to keep a good flow to the generator.
@@LandtoHouse Just had another thought. If you have enough water overflow at your barrel at all times when the micro Hydro is running it might work even better to just have a small pipe on the same level as the drain and let it run continuously but only if you always have excess water so it won't lower the water level in the barrel.
@@gordonwilloughby8793 Aloha Gordon! thank you so much for responding, I am happy to learn from you guys and thanks for sharing your ideas. I live here in the south Pacific and we have a lot of streams so I am following Seth series thinking of trying it to power my hydroponic garden and also try his ram pump to get water to the garden. Again, appreciate sharing your knowledge. Stay safe and God Bless.
Is there another adapter beside pipe barb? We do not have it here in our place
Someone get Sean some M18 tools! Great info on your channel sir.
I think I would have flipped the barrel upside down and used one of the two existing/threaded bungs for the clean out, by drilling an inch or 2 up, you're going to be left with an inch or 2 of sediment no matter what you do. Flipping it and using an existing bung you'll drain from the very bottom getting 99% of the sediment. Yeah, you would have had to drill 3 holes on the top(bottom) for your input, but they arent going to have pressure/weight of the water on them from the 40 or 50 gallons of water it takes to fill to the outlet and/or overflow, and I'm not sure if those Uniseals can take that long term. With the outlet you'll only have about 20 or 30 gallons of pressure and the weight is lateral not vertical.
For your sediment filter tube I would’ve just put a little half-inch or something on there and just let it drain all the time. That way the sediment would always just be flushing out of there anyway and you never have to do any maintenance on it, just make sure the flow is restricted enough to where you’re still getting enough water in your system, that’s why I would use a tiny pipe or even just a hole on the bottom of the barrel. Maybe you could put a valve on it to adjust
We don't have quite enough water to let a 1/2" drain all the time. That would be an extra 10gpm.
I was hoping you would have said you got your motor from a clothes washer or sealing fan or something
At some point I want to test out a treadmill motor that I have and also a hoverboard wheel motor. Not sure I will get to those this year but perhaps next year
How are you going to keep the "clean out" pipe from freezing?
I need to go back up there and see how it is doing. I have some big rebuild work to do in spring.
@@LandtoHouse just thinking that the clean out pipe might freeze. How could you keep it from freezing? What do I know, just thinking. Great series and I will be installing a hydro at my property in West Virginia someday.
sir, i was watching at your Turbine Hydro Power installation , and i am very impress. i would like to buy the turbine hydro so please can you tell me where can i buy one for my self.
Please talk to Langston alternative power. I have the link in the description. Spencer Langston can get you what you need!
how much power do you think this will generate?
This system has been running a few weeks. 1 nozzle 200 watts. 2 nozzles 370 watts. i would have to add another 1.25" pipe out the intake box to run a 3red nozzle. 2" pupe can only transfer 39gpm at this length.
@@LandtoHouse thx
Ok.. you should have just followed the creek with your poly, if only to get the siphon working. As long as the lower end is lower than the intake it doesn’t matter about the ups and downs in between. The pressure you get is directly in proportion to the height difference between the intake and the lower outlet.
The Creek goes off to the side and would have increased my pinstock length by at least 50'.
If air gets trapped in one of those high spots it greatly reduces the pressure at the bottom. I have found this to be very true so far
Hopefully this removes the majority of the sediment. Dirt is an abrasive & will wreck havoc on your nozzles & Pelton wheel.
I need to take a hike up the mountain and see how much buildup there is in the tank.
I would have put the three inlet pipes into the drum near the bottom of the drum. That will keep the gradient even. It will also cause the water to enter the drum smoother, therefore preventing the water from becoming aerated. Air in a penstock is bad.But good work so far.
Also the overflow should go up out of the top to allow all the air out while retaining all of the head .
That is an interesting idea. So far after a month of use the system is doing very well! I think that the air is hitting the water at the top of the tank and not going deeper into the water.
Great effort.
Thank you. This portion of the build is working very well.
I wish someone listed all the requirements
Nice. But how do you take care of wild animals not damaging this setup.
The largest animal that we have in this area is dear. They should not bother this set up. The only animal I can imagine causing any damage would be squirrels and chipmunks. Hopefully this set up is large enough that they will leave it alone.
As for frogs and salamanders they should not be able to get into the system
4 jets daaammmm
Why did you make the rest private
The series is currently going live every other day through august.
Why pelton over turgo??
It's more efficient to run a Pelton at high pressure low flow than a turgo. Trugo is better with low pressure hi flow
Spencer's answer is way better than mine.
Put the adapted one in the middle on the catch box please lol
A little OCD? haha
Land to House just a little. Also, did you really need an overflow or could you have just let it back up to the inlet box perhaps helping flush the screen?
Why don't you just combine the 3 pipes to one pipe so it has lots of pressure
I was just using what i had. In the redesign I can use 1 pipe.
Ok ok ok , pelon wheel , here we go...
aw man
Mantap cak ........
Thanks
nice vid btw
Thank you.
I am looking for about your product place leave me a message.When I post this, I am looking for more information
Find you no Facebook can you .
some info. tell yer sponsor, their design is Less-than excellent. cuz, at 2:49, 'you are actually getting' energy LOSS, at the right-angle plumbing components. supply-side plumbing Should result in, the combined flow of ALL jets being Equal to the Total available flow. googletranslate
It had to fit in a tight confined space . The main nozzle go straight in only running one nozzle most of the time pipe is more than sufficient for a 5/16 nozzle.
With only 12 gpm running most of the time the efficiency is just fine on the straight nozzle going into the turbine. When I do have more water to work with I can turn on another nozzle.
My original calculation on max power was 350 watts. I have seen 370 watts. So... we are good.
@@SpencerLAPower okay.
"most of the time pipe is more than sufficient for a 5/16 nozzle" this means what??? context is What.! a mention of 'flow rate' would seem to be appropriate. thx
@@LandtoHouse hmmmm. some fact-checking: a flow rate of Thirty gallons per Minute, equals Two Liters per Second. when that value is combined with the stated head, and Gravity, you get Two Hundred Thirty-four watts.... BEFORE Losses. curiouser and curiouser. d
regarding silt: obviously, the system is short-on 'settling'.
@@SpencerLAPower this guy is on my channel as well with no helpful information as well, just keeps spitting out numbers on a paper. he has no real input on what to change or how to fine tune an of this no matter how its explained to him. David Davids has no use in life.
okey dokey
Ball valve would have been better than clean out cap.
That is true. I would have wanted at least a brass valve to stay good in the weather. Those typically run about a $100. Vs $6 for the clean out cap. A full port ball valve 3" clean out was not in the budget.
@@LandtoHouse also a good idea for the overflow. With too much pressure in the lines it would have blown all the seals out. Would have been difficult to reinstall all of the connections.
@@LandtoHouse ever think of installing ball valve shut off valves on your three intake tubes, either up top or at your filter barrel? Would definitely make barrel maintenance easier without getting soaked, espec in colder weather.. ?
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Thank you!
Project's looking great! By the way, check out this collaboration video these crazy Canadians did with one of your ram pumps. Be sure to watch for your appearance(s) near the end of the video! th-cam.com/video/ikPLJf_cndY/w-d-xo.html
Thank you. Yes I have actually watched their video! super funny!
1st to watch
Haha you win.
second.
So close to first :)